Bass amp

Joined Apr 2006
2K Posts | 1+
on the grass
my electric guitar building hobby brought me to a place that i am unsure of.

I have a bass amp ( yamaha 115b, i think) that i got for FREE from one of my frineds. There is one problem; It doesnt work. Im not an elecrtician, but i am a thinker. Because i AM a thinker (and a tinkerer) i check the fuses that i can see without opening it up. both are good.
so i open it up.
inside i see that leading to good fuse (B) is wire (A). Fuse (B) is actually housed in a black fuse box thingie. (sorry i dont know the actual term, im not an electrician) It looks that it was factory installed. from fuse (B) is wice (C) ands that leads directly into Fuse (D) and from that wire (E). Wire (E) was once connected to something. I know what it was connected to, that isnt the issue. the issue is everything from C to E. All of this looks like it was "rigged"
The fuse (D) has a drop of solder on either end and an exposed wire also (wires C and E) this "patch" was all covered by electrical tape.

thats what i see. My question is this: if a fuse is just a wire designed to break when it gets hot, isnt having two fuses in a row be a little redundant? Can i just replace the fuse (D) with a real wire and not have a problem or is there a problem that i may not know about?

when all else fails look at a picture:
 

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There could be several reasons for having two fuses in series. It may have been done to make getting to it easier? I have moved the fuse holder location on several things to make it easy to get to. A real picture would make it easier to tell why.
 
What are the fuses ratings?

That seems really weird. I can't think of any reason to put fuses in series like that.

Was one of the fuses blown? You said fuse (B) was "good" but didn't say anything about fuse (D).

Matt
 
all fuses are good. wire E is the broken circut. that is why it is no good.

i doubt that the Fuse D was added to make it easy to deal with. I had to take out 11 screws just to get to it.

here is the best pic i could muster. i hope it helps.
 

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the only markings on fuse D are SOSS7 (i think)

Fuse B has markings of 250v

these markings are on the metal caps that close up the glass tube.

man, i feel so amateur.
 
kuzi16 said:
the only markings on fuse D are SOSS7 (i think)

Fuse B has markings of 250v

these markings are on the metal caps that close up the glass tube.

man, i feel so amateur.

Volts don't really matter. Its the amps you want to know. Are there any signs of other modifications? If not, I'd try and put it back to factory design.

Some people do the darndest things...

Matt
 
Do you know FOR SURE that fuse D is not blown (open)?

Do you have an ohmmeter to check the continuity from wires C to E?
 
It look factory to me. It is a back up to prevent stupidity. Fuse B is a panel mount fuse that can be changed from the outside of the case. Fuse A inside the case is the back up. This is done to prevent "wrapping" IE the act of a person who watches to much tv and when a fuse blows instead of replacing the fuse they wrap it with foil or some other non recommended item. Fuse A will have a rating slightly higher then fuse b does. If something goes wrong fuse B blows if somebody wraps fuse b and replaces it the load will be slightly higher and fuse a will blow. At that point most people will give up and chuck it or take it to be fixed.
 
so instead of attatching a wire from fuse B to the connection point i should leave fuse D in place and just attatch the end of that to the attachment point?
 
Doc-T said:
Do you know FOR SURE that fuse D is not blown (open)?

Do you have an ohmmeter to check the continuity from wires C to E?

there is a visable gap in wire E

im 100% sure no fuse in the entire thing is blown.
 
I dont see as to how it would matter from the picture I can see. But without having it in front of me I would not recommend removing anything.


If your wire E is just sitting there then it has either come off or the part is was attached to is gone.

I wish I could be more help but your picture is not very good.
 
i know the picture sucks.

in theory, i should be able to leave the "extra" fuse in and have no problems though right?

i mean isnt a fuse just a wire that breaks at a certian temp?
 
kuzi16 said:
i know the picture sucks.

in theory, i should be able to leave the "extra" fuse in and have no problems though right?

i mean isnt a fuse just a wire that breaks at a certian temp?

If it works sure. But I would be worried about why it was there to begin with.


A fuse breaks at its rated load or resistance. Resistance causes heat.
 
well... i got it to work.

it kinda sucks. there are more problems than i thought there would be. Tons of crackles and pops. Its like playing through a record.

i think its a connection problem in the input jack. ill see what i can do.