# A question about "breaking-in" my new pipe.



## Mycroft Holmes (Jan 20, 2011)

Well, finally the wait is over and I have my new Peterson Pipe in hand. I am very excited to start smoking this pipe, but because this is my one and only Peterson, I want to make sure that I break it in the right way, so that I don’t mess up the pipe.
So, again I turn to you fine folk on this forum to help guide me to “pipe enlightenment.” Does anyone have any advice on how I should begin breaking in my new pipe? 

Your thoughts (like always) are very appreciated.

-Mycroft


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Option 1. Fill'er up and smoke 'er slow

Option 2. Fill 1/3 of the way full and smoke 5 times, then 2/3 full for another 5 times and then fill and smoke like normal.

Either way is perfectly fine the only advantage to option 1 is that you only have to taste the black lining for a week or so other wise you'll be tasting it a lot longer.


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## User Name (Feb 11, 2011)

option 3- stick an oxy-acetylene torch in the tobacco chamber.

-report back with me the results

*disclaimer- don't listen to me.


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## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

I break in all my new pipes with Carter Hall, it seems to build cake faster than anything else I smoke. Usually 3 to 4 bowls, and it doesn't ghost, and then it's ready to move on to whatever I want to dedicate it to. Just remember to smoke those first few bowls very slowly.


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## Herf N Turf (Dec 31, 2008)

User Name said:


> option 3- stick an oxy-acetylene torch in the tobacco chamber.
> 
> -report back with me the results
> 
> *disclaimer- don't listen to me.


Save the jacks until the brother's question has been answered intelligently.

This is the most gentlemanly of the gentleman's forums on Puff.

Keep it so.


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## Firedawg (Nov 8, 2010)

Funny thing is I have seen somewhere where a Peterson quote said no need to break in since the pipes are pre carboned but than on their website the talk about breaking in doing the 1/3 fill method for a few bowls than 2/3 for a bit. So even from the source there are mixed. I personally have filled the bowls and smoked them. Have yet to ever have a problem and cake was always built up after time with no issues. They do have a great warranty also  Enjoy the smoke


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Just remember if you go with the full bowls from the start, you've got to smoke them all the way down to get that cake all the way down.


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## pffintuff (Apr 20, 2011)

I just fill it up and smoke. Enjoy your new Pete !


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

MarkC said:


> Just remember if you go with the full bowls from the start, you've got to smoke them all the way down to get that cake all the way down.


^1 And keep doing it! :lol: I'll second Pugsley's CH recommendation and say PA is also good for breaking in a pipe. Burley's burn a bit cooler than Virginias, so they taste a bit better during the break in I think. PA and CH are easy to burn to the bottom, too.


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

MarkC said:


> Just remember if you go with the full bowls from the start, you've got to smoke them all the way down to get that cake all the way down.


Whadhesed. :gossip:

Basically, don't overheat the pipe from the get go. Smoke slow, cool, and dry. Which means a bit more work, but patience at the start of your pipe's life will ensure it lives a long, cool, and dry life.

Personally, I like to break in new briars with burley blends. Not the perfumed/aromatic ones, just plain bland old burley. It keeps ghosts out, starts a good cake, and is easy to load/light/puff; ensure I don't kill the pipe on day one or day two. 1/3 2/3 3/3 if you are having trouble keeping things dry (Depends may help with that too). If you have good puffin' discipline, full bowls from the get go can work for you as well. Enjoy!

And congrats on the new acquisition!


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## Mycroft Holmes (Jan 20, 2011)

Thank you all for your replies thus far. I think I now have a firm hold on the 1/3 bowl method, and I think I will be using that one. As for the right tobacco to use while breaking my pipe in, I checked out my (very limited) cellar and have discovered that most of the current tobacco I own is rather Latikia based. I’m pretty sure I should stay away from that type of tobacco when breaking in my pipe, but I also found my tin of Peterson’s “Sherlock Holmes.” Would the Sherlock be a safe choice to use?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Seems like Sherlock would be okay to me. Nothing there to ghost and with the burley should burn cool enough.


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

Technically there's nothing wrong with breaking in with an English. An experienced pipe smoker might be planning to dedicate a pipe to Latakia blends and would break in a pipe with it's chosen tobacco blend. 

However in this case, I'd definitely listen to these guys and stay neutral for now. It becomes increasingly difficult to change your mind if you don't.


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## Hambone1 (May 31, 2011)

This is really helpful, I will to be breaking in a new pipe soon and have found this advise to be useful. I'm going with the 1/3 full method and then 2/3 to break mine in.


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## sailorjosh (Jun 10, 2010)

Pugsley said:


> I break in all my new pipes with Carter Hall, it seems to build cake faster than anything else I smoke. Usually 3 to 4 bowls, and it doesn't ghost, and then it's ready to move on to whatever I want to dedicate it to. Just remember to smoke those first few bowls very slowly.


I've used Prince Albert to break in pipes for the same reasons.


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## User Name (Feb 11, 2011)

Herf N Turf said:


> Save the jacks until the brother's question has been answered intelligently.
> 
> This is the most gentlemanly of the gentleman's forums on Puff.
> 
> Keep it so.


I meant PROPANE and Oxy....

YouTube - ‪Carbonising A Blakemar Briar‬‏

I apologize for my stupidity.

Forgive me yo


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## 92hatchattack (May 30, 2009)

What do you guys mean by keeping it "dry"?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

92hatchattack said:


> What do you guys mean by keeping it "dry"?


The faster/hotter you smoke the more moisture is produced by the combustion and the more moisture evaporates from the tobacco directly under the ember. The lower parts of the burn pile are cooler and will distill that moisture from the combustive effluent being drawn down through the burn pile and into the draught hole. The bottom of the pipe itself will distill this moisture too. The dottle will become saturated by wicking it off the bottom of the pipe in addition to what condenses on its relatively cooler surface. As the ember burns into ever wetter material, more intense puffing is required to keep it lit and liquid begins to intrude into the shank and stem. You are now smoking "wet" as opposed to "dry".

Think of a continuum of difficulty mapped against the density of packing, the harder the pack making the smoke "wetter". An extremely light pack will not create an adequate ember. Too tight a pack will prevent adequate airflow. Too tight a pack will make it difficult to avoid a wet smoke, so we have the threads on packing. There are probably too few threads on tamping, another skill to keep a smoke from becoming wet.

Too much airflow will cause the tobacco to quickly burn down one side or the other or straight down the center. True, it's dry but there was never really a chance for the flavors to cook out of the tobacco. If tobacco is packed lightly at first, however, one can adjust the draw with the tamper after a charring light, pushing the tobacco down a bit as you flatten the surface; you will not be smoking a fully packed bowl, because you would have pushed the tobacco down in the bowl, hence a shorter smoke, but with less tobacco in the chamber there is less total moisture that will ultimately reach the bottom of the pipe.

When a smoker joins packing, lighting, and tamping skills with good technique "fanning the flame", as it were, he can control the intensity of the ember, moderating it such that the lower regions can evaporate most of the moisture that reaches them and remain combustible when the ember arrives. A good ember at the end will dry the dottle by its proximity and burn it to the bottom of the bowl, thereby charring the heel properly and delivering a sweeter essence than if the pipe were relit. The end of a well-smoked bowl can be the best part and burning it to the end prevents the pipe from becoming sour.

Or something like that.


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## Hambone1 (May 31, 2011)

I love you right now freestoke :hail:


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## Stonedog (Mar 9, 2011)

To echo freestoke's comments about tamping, the tamper is your friend!!!

I didnt realize it can help control the moisture but it certainly helps when the ember is about go out. Gently puff while using the tamper to carefully push the ember down into the unlit tobacco. It doesn't take much and when done right will save you from having to relight.


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## 92hatchattack (May 30, 2009)

Freestroke, that was an AWESOME post! RG for you!

Thanks!

So pretty much puff her low and slow while breaking in... gotcha!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Stonedog said:


> It doesn't take much and when done right will save you from having to relight.


And that's a fact. :beerchug: Tamp whenever the ember is weak! And use your fingers or thumb over the bowl, too, to damp after tamping. I've never quite figured out why that works, but it definitely does. I've saved many a smoke by puffing with my fingers over the bowl.


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## Adam (Jun 17, 2010)

Am I really going to have to be the first person, and on page 2 no less, to say "pics or it didn't happen"? Really?...


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

92hatchattack said:


> Freestroke, that was an AWESOME post! RG for you!
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> So pretty much puff her low and slow while breaking in... gotcha!


Wow, thanks Joe! :beerchug:

If you are starting a campfire, long slow blows on the lit area are what works, not short hard puffs. With practice, you can feel the heat and sense the volume of smoke. When the smoke becomes weaker, it's time to tamp and damp! Sometimes you have puff a little harder than others, but the object is to keep things as cool as you can without the pipe going out. All is not lost if it does go out, though. Tamp it, relight it and carry on to the end. I get through most of my smokes, especially flakes, with just a relight or two at the beginning to get things started right, sometimes with a single match, but other times I forget to puff or tamp, or set the pipe down to do something, and I can't save it. Still, I never dump a wet dottle. I'll relight until I know the tobacco is all gone. It's a compulsion I suppose. :lol:


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## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

Wow. RG for Freestoke!
Best explanation of a "dry" smoke that I've read yet.

I'll add this little bit: The materials we use for pipes (typically, clay, briar, corncob) aren't accidental--they work in conjunction with the "dry" idea. All wick moisture away from the smoke itself, while dissipating heat.

Lots of people come over to the pipe-side after smoking cigars. . .Seems to me there are lots of comparisons to be drawn between a really well rolled & humidified cigar (smokes consistent, cool, builds flavor as you smoke) and a well packed bowl in a quality pipe (same).


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## Firedawg (Nov 8, 2010)

I have read where cake isformed from burnt sugars from tobacco and that a virginia blend will make cake faster while burley has very little natural sugars. So why would using a burley blend be better? Are these opinions or facts that are being offered? I myself honestly dont know what works better but their seems to be a theme of what works and it is what ever you smoke yourself works. For a new smoker looking at this and seeing all the different answers would be very confusing and not really helpful or would it? This is not in anyway a critical post but constructive and more of curiosity.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Firedawg said:


> I have read where cake isformed from burnt sugars from tobacco and that a virginia blend will make cake faster while burley has very little natural sugars. So why would using a burley blend be better? Are these opinions or facts that are being offered?


I think most burleys have a casing, however mild, that contains at least a little sugar. Burley is pretty bland (as you say, relatively sugarless), so it's frequently perked up some. CH and PA don't have globs of sugar, so they don't smoke wet like 1Q and other heavy aromatic burleys.

Personally, I wasn't speaking so much to the speed of caking as the ease of getting a burn to the bottom of the bowl while simultaneously burning a little cooler. CH and PA do that pretty well. Probably because of the sugars, Virginias seem to burn hotter than burleys, and I wouldn't think you'd want a "hot burn" until you have some cake. On a parallel note, because they have a lot of sugar, they can burn a little wetter than a lightly cased burley; I suspect that the tendency would be to "fire it up" to keep it going. Virginias in ribbon form, especially when a bit too moist, can make for a formidable dottle, another bad thing to have to face with a bare heel on a new pipe. (It's this "difficult dottle defect" that leads me to believe that flakes are the optimum way to smoke Virginias. Even fully rubbed out, the tobacco strands never quite reach that breathless level of intimacy with their neighbors that ribbon cuts provide, only touching each other here and there enough to spread combustion.)

And here is yet another advantage to PA and CH -- PA is a crimp cut and though they say CH is ribbon it's more of a cube cut. They burn almost like a rubbed out flake, one of the reasons they're so easy to keep lit and lead to a drier dottle than say Early Morning Pipe. (Not that one can't smoke EMP to the bottom of the bowl on a single match, it's just a little harder to do.)

Whatever, I think you're taking speed of caking as an important parameter where I would give it virtually no weight in my consideration.


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## Firedawg (Nov 8, 2010)

freestoke said:


> I think most burleys have a casing, however mild, that contains at least a little sugar. Burley is pretty bland (as you say, relatively sugarless), so it's frequently perked up some. CH and PA don't have globs of sugar, so they don't smoke wet like 1Q and other heavy aromatic burleys.
> 
> Personally, I wasn't speaking so much to the speed of caking as the ease of getting a burn to the bottom of the bowl while simultaneously burning a little cooler. CH and PA do that pretty well. Probably because of the sugars, Virginias seem to burn hotter than burleys, and I wouldn't think you'd want a "hot burn" until you have some cake. On a parallel note, because they have a lot of sugar, they can burn a little wetter than a lightly cased burley; I suspect that the tendency would be to "fire it up" to keep it going. Virginias in ribbon form, especially when a bit too moist, can make for a formidable dottle, another bad thing to have to face with a bare heel on a new pipe. (It's this "difficult dottle defect" that leads me to believe that flakes are the optimum way to smoke Virginias. Even fully rubbed out, the tobacco strands never quite reach that breathless level of intimacy with their neighbors that ribbon cuts provide, only touching each other here and there enough to spread combustion.)
> 
> ...


Now that is a great explanation! Now I know why I lean towards VA's since I smoke almost just flakes now. I am constantly reaming my pipes so keep that dime thickness level. However using a burley seems more relevant for a fast new smoker to build up cake. Again great post!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

CaptainEnormous said:


> Wow. RG for Freestoke!
> Best explanation of a "dry" smoke that I've read yet.
> 
> I'll add this little bit: The materials we use for pipes (typically, clay, briar, corncob) aren't accidental--they work in conjunction with the "dry" idea. All wick moisture away from the smoke itself, while dissipating heat.


Molto grazie, Dave! High praise indeed. 

Your point about the materials is spot on as well. Briar is not as absorbent as clay or meerschaum and can become saturated rather quickly, hence the advice to let briar pipes rest for a day or so to dry out after smoking and the benefits of having a few pipes to smoke in rotation; this will allow them to be better able to absorb moisture the next time you smoke them. Pipe filters are more for the purpose of keeping moisture out of the shank and stem than for "weakening" the smoke, as they are in cigarettes, and don't do much of anything to prevent a soggy dottle . (In cigarettes, they also serve as a kind of disposable holder.) With cobs, the pine shank is quite absorbent, but the area beneath where it enters the bowl also collects moisture and allows cobs to be smoked quite a few times before they start getting a bit too damp. (Even cobs need to be kept clean though!)


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Firedawg said:


> Now that is a great explanation! Now I know why I lean towards VA's since I smoke almost just flakes now. I am constantly reaming my pipes so keep that dime thickness level. However using a burley seems more relevant for a fast new smoker to build up cake. Again great post!


Thanks a lot, Todd! Glad you liked it! 8) I'm pretty much hooked on Va and Vaper flakes these days too.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Firedawg said:


> I have read where cake isformed from burnt sugars from tobacco and that a virginia blend will make cake faster while burley has very little natural sugars. So why would using a burley blend be better? Are these opinions or facts that are being offered? I myself honestly dont know what works better but their seems to be a theme of what works and it is what ever you smoke yourself works. For a new smoker looking at this and seeing all the different answers would be very confusing and not really helpful or would it? This is not in anyway a critical post but constructive and more of curiosity.


I personally prefer to use a virginia to break in a new pipe rather than a burley. Burley seems to build a cake faster, but it's a crumbly, easy to break cake. Virginias, while slower to build, create a cake that is harder, more shell-like. Which is better at performing the function of a cake is beyond me, but I prefer the durability of the virginia cake. On the other hand, if I was recommending one or the other to a new smoker, I'd probably play it safe and recommend the burley.


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## laloin (Jun 29, 2010)

I'm actually in the same boat as the OP, since I recently purchased a Peterson Sterling sliver Irish army pipe. I was told the same advise smoke a 1/3 for 5 smokes, then a half a bowl for 5 smokes, and 3/4 for five smokes, and then can smoke a full bowl.
I prefer to smoke Virginia to break in a pipe, and as much as I'm really enjoy my 1st good pipe, i want to keep the pipe for a long time. hence break the puppy in heheh. 
thanks for the info guys
troy


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## 92hatchattack (May 30, 2009)

Are there any different rules for breaking in a corb cob pipe? I notice with these MM cobs that i have just recieved that the shank extends into the bowl. This leaves extra area to the side and underneath the hole. So im guessing the tobacco in those areas will not get burnt and should be scooped out after each smoke? I cant imagine that the area to the sides, and under the shank will be able to cake up much will it?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

92hatchattack said:


> Are there any different rules for breaking in a corb cob pipe? I notice with these MM cobs that i have just recieved that the shank extends into the bowl. This leaves extra area to the side and underneath the hole. So im guessing the tobacco in those areas will not get burnt and should be scooped out after each smoke? I cant imagine that the area to the sides, and under the shank will be able to cake up much will it?


It takes about 10 smokes before you stop tasting the turpentine with a cob. No half bowls messin' around with a cob, fill 'er up and puff away! When you taste turpentine, dump it. It's not like a briar at all. Don't scrape the bottom or sides with metal -- use a golf tee or something, because both the stem and sides are fragile. Just hold the entire bowl and knock out the tobacco/ash against your palm over an ashtray.

Dale! Where are you, Dale!? Tell this guy about cobs!


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## 92hatchattack (May 30, 2009)

You guys here are really fantastic! All of yas! Ive learned so much already and I have yet to even smoke a bowl of tobacco.

And yes, if anyone else has more suggestions on getting a cob going well feel free to enlighten me. Apparently my tobacco from the NPS trade has arrived so i should be up and smoking in just a few short days!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

92hatchattack said:


> You guys here are really fantastic! All of yas! Ive learned so much already and I have yet to even smoke a bowl of tobacco.


We enjoy answering questions, especially us pedantic old farts. :lol: (We answer questions when there's not even anybody else in the room.)

I have some cobs and I smoke 'em, but I'm not the cob authority around here. Dale says to wipe out the inside of the bowl with a damp paper towel after each smoke. I don't, but not because I don't think it's a great idea, I'm just really lazy. I do it every now and then though, keeps the bowls nicer.


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## laloin (Jun 29, 2010)

freestoke said:


> We enjoy answering questions, especially us pedantic old farts. :lol: (We answer questions when there's not even anybody else in the room.)
> 
> I have some cobs and I smoke 'em, but I'm not the cob authority around here. Dale says to wipe out the inside of the bowl with a damp paper towel after each smoke. I don't, but not because I don't think it's a great idea, I'm just really lazy. I do it every now and then though, keeps the bowls nicer.


Damm Jim, soo your older then dirt 
troy


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## Nachman (Oct 16, 2010)

92hatchattack said:


> Are there any different rules for breaking in a corb cob pipe? I notice with these MM cobs that i have just recieved that the shank extends into the bowl. This leaves extra area to the side and underneath the hole. So im guessing the tobacco in those areas will not get burnt and should be scooped out after each smoke? I cant imagine that the area to the sides, and under the shank will be able to cake up much will it?


Most of the part of the stem that is in the bottom of the bowl eventually burns away and the the tobacco will burn all the way to the bottom in a cob. See, us pedantic old farts enjoy answering questions because our grandchildren and great-grandchildren have no interest in garnering the wisdom we have learned over the ages.


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## 92hatchattack (May 30, 2009)

Nachman said:


> Most of the part of the stem that is in the bottom of the bowl eventually burns away and the the tobacco will burn all the way to the bottom in a cob. See, us pedantic old farts enjoy answering questions because our grandchildren and great-grandchildren have no interest in garnering the wisdom we have learned over the ages.


Nick,

I feel the same way with my 6 year old. Why is it a kid will listen to every word when a complete stranger is teaching or telling them something, but when their own flesh and blood try to teach them something they dont want to hear it because they already know better? My father and I dont have a great relationship, but I sure do hope that one day my son "gets it" when he is older and we can sit down for some nice talks about life.


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## jwreed81 (Jun 9, 2011)

Awesome commentary people. I'm now puffing slow and low on my first refurbished estate pipe while reading this thread. Sweet bonus on the tamp and damp info! That helped me a lot, thanks!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

laloin said:


> Damm Jim, soo your older then dirt
> troy


Well, as Santa Claus said, I'm a bit older than my teeth. :lol: The standard line on this is, if I'd known I'd last this long I'd have taken better care of myself!


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