# Crack Filling Material?



## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

Have a question for anyone out there who does pipe repair. . .

What do you use to fill superficial cracks on briar bowls? I've read super glue, or gorilla glue, or epoxy. None of those seems like a great idea, considering the crack isn't structurally worrisome. The repair would have to be functional, obviously, but I'm also concerned with aesthetics: Is there a fill-material that comes colored, so it might look like the grain of the pipe? What about a fill that is sand-able?

Thanks in advance!


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## TXsmoker (Sep 6, 2010)

CaptainEnormous said:


> Have a question for anyone out there who does pipe repair. . .
> 
> What do you use to fill superficial cracks on briar bowls? I've read super glue, or gorilla glue, or epoxy. None of those seems like a great idea, considering the crack isn't structurally worrisome. The repair would have to be functional, obviously, but I'm also concerned with aesthetics: Is there a fill-material that comes colored, so it might look like the grain of the pipe? What about a fill that is sand-able?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Ive heard of people using honey and cigar ash, similar to the way they work the bottom of a cob.


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## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

Thanks for the post, Adam!

I read some threads that mention the ash/honey (pipe mud) fill as well.
I'm not opposed to trying that. . .but it seems like there must be a better, more permanent solution out there. 

I have lots of mid-range Savinelli pipes that have imperfections that got filled. . .What do pipe-makers use as fills?


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## d_day (Aug 24, 2008)

I think I remember reading about someone using Durham's rock hard water putty for in bowl repairs. I could be wrong though.


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## GuitarDan (Nov 26, 2009)

My concern would be preventing the crack from enlarging.

This would entail drilling a tiny hole slightly ahead of the both edges of the crack, and doweling with maple or birch or mahogany. Using freshly made hot hide glue is best, though medium viscosity cyanoacrylate lacquer (pure "superglue") is acceptable, and far less effort and skill is needed.

If the crack doesn't go all the way into the bowl, this is how I would repair it if I were satisfied that the pipe was done cracking:

1)Clean the crack well with a needle to remove debris
2)Wet strips of a business card with lighter fluid to remove oils, waxes, etc...let dry overnight
3)Wet a strip or two with acetone and clean crack again (work quickly- it dries FAST) be very careful... acetone slop will damage most stained finishes
4)make a generous pile of ultra-fine sawdust from the above dowel wood
5)Firmly pack the dust into the 1st half (depth) of the crack.
6)Using a clean toothpick, apply ultra-thin cyanoacrylate lacquer ~1 small drop at a time. Capillary action will wick the glue into the dust. -don't be alarmed when you see wisps of acrid vapor wafting from the repair... a heat generating chemical reaction just took place...
7)Repeat #5 & #6
8)Let dry overnight
9)Wax and buff

Keep in mind that the solvents and "superglue" are quite nasty both to your nose AND your health, so it's best to work where there's lost of airflow, if not next to an air purifier. Also being sloppy with "superglue" can cause hilarious, and sometimes tragic events to the project and/or yourself... 

And as always, practice on scrap until you are confident...


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

GuitarDan said:


> Keep in mind that the solvents and "superglue" are quite nasty both to your nose AND your health, so it's best to work where there's lost of airflow, if not next to an air purifier. ...


I have heard that heating "superglue" can cause it to release toxic fumes, even once its dry/set. Never put anything in or on your pipe that you are not willing to put into your mouth.


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## GuitarDan (Nov 26, 2009)

the toxic fumes are actually a variation of cyanide... not the mega-death-kill-you now version... but still extremely nasty... for the first 1-20 minutes until the C-A is fully cured. Once it's cured, no-more badness is generated.

I'm very willing to put beef ribs and coleslaw in my mouth, but I'm not putting them in my pipe. I'm not putting Everclear in my mouth, but I use it quite often when cleaning my pipes...

I recommend FACTUALLY researching any topic to your own satisfaction, rather than relying on something a guy who knows my cousin's girlfriend once heard...

Here's a good place to start...
Cyanoacrylate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

P.S. I mean this post to be helpful. A little exasperated in tone, but certainly not meant to belittle or to cause hard feelings.


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## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

Thanks so much, Dan.

My first crack repair was a complete success. I didn't drill the holes, just because it didn't seem necessary given the location and severity of the crack. But I did use fine briar dust and cyanoacrylate lacquer to fill. I actually mixed in just a bit of dust from the carbon cake I'd been reaming as well, to get the color closer to the dark grain on this freehand. I couldn't think of a reason that would hurt things (a 50/50 carbon/briar mix shouldn't expand, or mess up any chemical reactions happening, right?). 

The end result was a little sloppy, so I sanded the excess filler and the rest of the pipe, then polished and waxed. Wonderful end-result. Couldn't be happier. 

Again, many thanks.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

RJpuffs said:


> I have heard that heating "superglue" can cause it to release toxic fumes, even once its dry/set. Never put anything in or on your pipe that you are not willing to put into your mouth.


Ron, that indirectly reminds me of my younger days. One night we were smoking some "pipe tobacco" and the gum I was chewing got stuck to the roof of my mouth. About two hours later it finally came loose :eyebrows:


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## TonyBrooklyn (Jan 28, 2010)

d_day said:


> I think I remember reading about someone using Durham's rock hard water putty for in bowl repairs. I could be wrong though.


I know those that have used Durhams the problem is the putty expands and contracts so much in time it falls out.



GuitarDan said:


> the toxic fumes are actually a variation of cyanide... not the mega-death-kill-you now version... but still extremely nasty... for the first 1-20 minutes until the C-A is fully cured. Once it's cured, no-more badness is generated.
> 
> I'm very willing to put beef ribs and coleslaw in my mouth, but I'm not putting them in my pipe. I'm not putting Everclear in my mouth, but I use it quite often when cleaning my pipes...
> 
> ...


I like Dans suggestion much better being a master carpenter by trade i say this one is thought out and can work. Also i like his P.S Bump for ya bro!


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## dbreazeale (Apr 6, 2008)

JB Weld will also work.


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