# Questions and Tips.



## Python (Dec 3, 2007)

I figured I would make this thread for questions and tips about pipe tobacco.

First question is:


thehat101 said:


> How long does pipe baccy stay good for in only plastic baggies or tins????


Pipe tobacco will keep for a few weeks in plastic baggies before it starts to dry up. Sometimes I will just put the baggies into a mason jar and put the lid on it to keep it from drying out too quickly.

The tins that pipe tobacco come in are vacuumed sealed so the tobacco will be fine as long as the seal is not broken. Once the seal is broken it will still be fine but it will stop the aging process. You can place the contents of an open tin in a mason jar or other air tight container (glass containers are highly suggested) if you are worried about it. 
I have tins of tobacco that have been open for over a year and I have kept in the tin and they are fine, just a little on the dry side which is not necessarily a bad thing when it comes to pipe tobacco.

Question #2


thehat101 said:


> do you keep a large collection like stogies or do you buy it when you need it :lol:


It depends on what you want to do. You can stock up or buy as you need.
Pipe tobacco ages just like cigars age, but a little different. The longer that you age a blend, the longer that the tobaccos used in that blend have time to "marry" together. Some people believe that aging affects blends differently; such as Aromatics benefit very little from aging, Latakia loses some of it's smokiness from aging, and Virginias benefit the most from aging.
I don't know about all of that, but I can tell you this; it doesn't matter what type of tobacco blend it is, it benefits from aging. I have not had any tobacco that I have aged not taste better than when it was "fresh", at the very worse it tasted the same.

My wife would say that I have a large collection, I would say that it is not large enough. One thing that I like to keep in mind is, Tobacco will never be cheaper than it is today. 
My motto is; "If you can afford it, hoard it." :lol: :lol:


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## thehat101 (Mar 8, 2007)

Thank you kind sir !!!! 

I looked at a few pipes this week while at the Tinderbox. They had a few cool ones for cheap (I think 19 bucks is cheap for a pipe right???) Anyway ..... What do you look for when choosing your first pipe. I bought a corncob from a local B&M once because i was shooting the shit with the owner and he wanted me to try some of his pipe blends. Needless to say I didnt enjoy it all that much. I might go out this weekend and grab one so what am I looking for :dunno:


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## Python (Dec 3, 2007)

Depending on what kind of material the pipe is made of $19 is pretty cheap. 
Buying a pipe for ones self is pretty much all about preference. I have suggestions on what I would do and I will list them, but basically buy what you prefer because if you don't like it you won't smoke it.
I would suggest getting a Briar pipe for your first pipe. 

1) Make sure that the draft hole is at the bottom of the bowl. (The draft hole is the little hole that the smoke comes up from the bowl in.) If the draft hole is above the bottom of the bowl, you will have problems with smoking wet and a gurgling pipe because moisture will accumulate in that space (like a little bowl) and tobacco will not burn all the way to the bottom.

2) Do the “Pipe Cleaner Test”. Ask the clerk can you borrow a pipe cleaner and then insert the pipe cleaner into the bit slide it into the shank down into the bowl. If it goes all the way down into the bowl this is what is referred to as “Passing a Pipe Cleaner”. This test may be a little difficult on bent pipes. 

These are the two most important things (in that order) to look for when purchasing a pipe. Everything else is pretty mush aesthetic. 
You might run into a little bit of a problem finding a cheap bent pipe that will pass both of these tests. 
If you don’t mind a straight pipe, a cheap straight would probably pass both with flying colors. 
If you want a bent make sure that you find the one that come the closest to passing both the test. 
Your first priority is test #1.


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## thehat101 (Mar 8, 2007)

The 19 dollar pipe was briar, I think I might go back tomm and check it out to se if it passes the test. if it does i might have to grab it :lol:


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## Python (Dec 3, 2007)

Sweet! 
Don't forget to grab some pipe cleaners, you will need them :lol: a lot!


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## thehat101 (Mar 8, 2007)

Python said:


> Sweet!
> Don't forget to grab some pipe cleaners, you will need them :lol: a lot!


My wife is gonna beat my ass :lol: I can see it now


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## Python (Dec 3, 2007)

:lolat: 


thehat101 said:


> My wife is gonna beat my ass :lol: I can see it now


Oh yeah, if it doesn't have a carbon lining in the bowl, you will need to break it in.


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## thehat101 (Mar 8, 2007)

Python said:


> :lolat:
> 
> 
> thehat101 said:
> ...


How the hell do you do that :hmm:


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## Python (Dec 3, 2007)

If the inside of the bowl is black, which on a lot of pipes it is, this is a carbon lining. If it is plain wood you will have to break it in, it is not that hard.

What I do is I mix some honey with some water to make the honey a little less thick. I then take my finger and dip it in the mixture and apply a very light coat of it to the inside of the bowl. Then I let it sit for at least 24 hours to dry a little and then I load it up and smoke. 
When smoking during the break in period you have to be very careful to not get the bowl too hot, smoke very slowly for the first 10-20 bowls.

The reason for doing this is to build up a carbon layer called "cake" in your bowl. The cake protects the bowl and enhances the flavor of the tobacco. 

There are different ways of breaking in a pipe and this is just how I do it, others do it differently.

But like I said, if it has a layer of carbon already in it, you don't have to do this  .


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## thehat101 (Mar 8, 2007)

got it i need to find one with carbon lining already :lol:


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## buzkirk (Mar 20, 2006)

Jimmy, ck out www.cupojoes.com

Large selection of pipes


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## thehat101 (Mar 8, 2007)

buzkirk said:


> Jimmy, ck out www.cupojoes.com
> 
> Large selection of pipes


I did from your other link and they have so many that i couldnt fins anythin afordable. Of course i started with the Dunhill pipes :lol: I dont think I wil ever own one of those. I might not be looking at the right stuff on that site. Any sugestions???? :lol:


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## Python (Dec 3, 2007)

thehat101 said:


> Any sugestions???? :lol:


What price range are you looking in? Once I know that, then I'll be able to make some suggestions :lol: .

You could also check here:
http://www.pipesandcigars.com/

They have a good selection as well and they have quite a few to choose from in the lower price range.

If you are looking for something in the $20 range check out the Kaywoodie pipes.


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## JAX (Sep 18, 2007)

I've got a whole month experience in this so take this with a grain of salt.....


Unless you are looking to get into pipe collecting (antiques,high-end, show-off) you would be fine with a pipe in the $20-80 range. Afterall you are looking to smoke tabacco (the real show in this equation) in it.

Some say the higher the quality pipe the better the smoke. As a newbie I can tell ya I wouldn't know the differance in taste between a "cheap" pipe and an "expensive" pipe if it bit me in the @ss....so I'm not worried about it.


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## Python (Dec 3, 2007)

Here is another bit of advice that I forgot to tell all of the newbie pipe smokers :lol: .

*DO NOT *store your pipe tobacco with your cigars!!!

Cigars are like little sponges and they will pick up the aroma and flavors of the pipe tobacco, store them separate from each other.

Pipe tobacco does not need to be humidified so it is very easy to store away from your cigars.


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## CRider (May 11, 2007)

Sheesh...I keep reading these threads and I'm gonna be in trouble with Michele. I've always though pipes were cool, this doesn't help :lol:


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## JAX (Sep 18, 2007)

CRider said:


> Sheesh...I keep reading these threads and I'm gonna be in trouble with Michele. I've always though pipes were cool, this doesn't help :lol:


Come to the other dark side of the force!!!

It's all cool...switch hitting is perfectly acceptable in the world of tabacco!


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## CRider (May 11, 2007)

I'm seriously considering it...a few years ago I tried a cheap corn-cob that I got at the local market and some pipe tobacco they had there. I think the tobacco was Half & Half, but honestly not too sure. I had a lot of problems keeping it going, getting good smoke from it, etc, so I ended up pitching it. 

Question for ya...looking around on the pipesandcigars.com I see they have samplers (likely the best way for me to start) that are 5 packs of 2oz tins. How long does a 2oz can last?


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## JAX (Sep 18, 2007)

2 ounce tin of tabacco will generally last ya 20 bowls. (See Bob, I learned me something!). 

Samplers are probably a great way to get started - I considered it myself. My recommendation though is see if you're local B&M offers pipe tabacco. They should be able to give you a little sampler of their house blends to try out. If they do, go for it. If not, get an ounce of "this" and and ounce of "that". 

The idea is to see what general blends you like: VA, Latakia, Burley, etc. Then you go out and spent a little bit of cash for a full tin.

As far as the pipe going out. This is just the nature of the beast. Bob has a great explination on how to help avoid this....better then I could (i.e., proper packing/lighting). You don't want to smoke the pipe too fast to keep it lit because you'll end up with a really hot pipe and a smoke that tastes like crap. Slow paced puffing is the way to go...if you have to relight - relight. I've been told that with time it gets alot easier to pack, light, and keep lit a pipe.

Hope this helps. Bob should be along shortly to chime in. :lol:


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## CRider (May 11, 2007)

Thanks man! I'm pretty sure The Tobacco Company (local B&M) carries pipe stuff, although I've never looked to see how much. I'll have to stop by there sometime to check it out. One reason I'm really interested in pipes is that some of my earliest memories of time spent at my grandfather's house include the smell of his pipe. I don't know what kind of tobacco it was, but it was always a cherry-smelling blend. Just some great memories.


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## JAX (Sep 18, 2007)

My grandfather was a farmer over in Scotland...he smoked a pipe aswell. That's what drew me as well, it's hard to explain. But the ease of storage (shipboard friendly) and cost effectiveness is a huge plus for me.

The selection of Aromatics (cherry, brandy, chocolate, whiskey, vanillia, etc) is limitless. You'll have no problems finding something that tickles your pallet.


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## Python (Dec 3, 2007)

:lolat: 


JAX said:


> 2 ounce tin of tabacco will generally last ya 20 bowls. (See Bob, I learned me something!).


The force is strong with this one! :lol:



JAX said:


> Hope this helps. Bob should be along shortly to chime in. :lol:


There's not a whole lot more so say that you haven't covered :lol: .

If a pipe keeps going out frequently it is probably packed too tight.
The hardest part of pipe smoking is learning how to properly pack the tobacco, but once you learn how to do that it is a very rewarding smoke.

Samplers are a great way to go. You get to try a few different blends that way, but like Mike said, B&M's are also great for trying out blends. You don't have to buy 2 ounces from a B&M, most will sell in 1oz increments.
Also, most B&M's will let you sample a bowl of the bulk tobaccos for free. Just have your pipe with you and ask if you can try a bowl, it is always nice to pick up a little something when you do this though :smile: .


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## Python (Dec 3, 2007)

I figured that I would post a few tips to get the beginners started. This is part of the letter that I sent to Mike (Jax).



When you pack the pipe, do not push down the tobacco down too hard. A fully packed pipe should have a draw that is no tighter than the feeling you get when you are drinking through a straw. I personally prefer to pack my pipes a little looser than that, I seem to get more flavor that way and it stays lit longer. I also only use a two step method as opposed to the three step method. If you pack a pipe too tight it won’t stay lit for very long and it could cause tongue bite. If you pack it too loose, it will burn hot and fast and can cause tongue bite. Make sure that you leave at least 1/8 of and inch of space from the top of the tobacco and the rim of the bowl.

When lighting the pipe, DO NOT use a torch or jet flame lighter. Use a regular flame lighter or wooden matches. A torch or jet flame can scorch the rim of the pipe and damage it beyond repair. I suggest that you use a “charring light”, that is similar to toasting the foot of a cigar. To do this you puff lightly on the pipe while lighting and as soon as the tobacco is charred you stop. Then you take the tamper and LIGHTLY tamp down using only the weight of the tamper and even out the charred tobacco. Then you light up again until the whole surface is glowing red just like the foot of a cigar and then enjoy. 

When smoking, only take a puff every 15 to 20 seconds. You do not want to get the tobacco or the smoke too hot. If you do this it will rob the smoke of most of its flavor and it will also wreak havoc on your mouth. Do not overheat the pipe either, the pipe will get warm while smoking but don’t let it get really hot. If you over heat a pipe it can cause a burn out. A burn out is when you get the pipe so hot that it burns into the wood and it will ruin your pipe. A burn out could go all the way through the wood and make a hole the bowl. A good rule of thumb is to put the bowl of the pipe against your cheek and if it is so hot that you can not hold it against your cheek for at least 5 seconds, sit it down in the ashtray and let it cool off. Do not worry about trying to keep the pipe lit, sometimes it just goes out. It happens to even the most seasoned pipe smoker. Just re-light it and keep on puffing. If you worry about it and puff too much and too frequently to keep it lit, you will cause overheating, loss of flavor, tongue bite, and maybe a burnout. If it goes out, it goes out. Just re-light it. 

When you are smoking, every once in awhile you will have to tamp down the ashes so you can re-light the tobacco. The way that works for me is; I will keep re-lighting the tobacco until it won’t re-light anymore. When that happens I take the tamper and lightly, using only the weight of the tamper, tamp down the ash and even it out. Then I re-light and keep doing that until the tobacco is gone. Sometime on a larger bowl you might have to dump some of the ashes out to get to some of the tobacco so it will relight. 

When you are finished smoking, make sure that you let the pipe cool all the way down (at least 15 minutes) before you empty out the bowl and clean it. When you empty out the bowl, use the spoon on the tamper and LIGHTLY loosen the ashes and dottle and dump it out. The dottle is any unburned tobacco left in the bottom of the bowl. DO NOT bang your pipe on anything to empty it. Doing that could break the stem, mortise, shank or bowl. I don’t even knock it against the cork knockers that they sell for that purpose.


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## buzkirk (Mar 20, 2006)

Great info Bob !

Looking forward to tring this out, again !


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## dartstothesea (Aug 15, 2008)

Yes, this all of this is very helpful.

And if anybody needs anything else answered, this might help.

http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Main_Page


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## Python (Dec 3, 2007)

Some people have asked me what should they do when their tobacco gets dry, so I figured that I would write out some tips on what you can do.

*Re-Hydrating Pipe Tobacco*

If you find that your pipe tobacco is dried out there are a few ways that you can re-hydrate it. 
First let me say that you don't have to re-hydrate and some people actually prefer their tobacco on the crispy side. There are certain tobaccos that I prefer on the really dry side. However, there are those who say that if the tobacco gets too dry, it loses some of it's flavor and needs to be re-hydrated so you can taste the 'actual' flavor. It's all about personal preference.

I suggest that you try it both ways and choose for yourself whether you like it dry or moist. If you don't like it dry, you can re-hydrate it using one of the following procedures. Pipe tobacco is not delicate like cigars are, so you do not need to slowly re-hydrate it.

1)*Use A Humidifier - *You can purchase one of the coin humidifier disc from a B&M and wet it with distilled water and put it in with the tobacco in it's container.

2)*Sponge Method - *Get a NEW and UNUSED foam sponge and cut a small square off of it. Dampen the piece of sponge and place it in with the tobacco like a coin humidifier disc.

3)*Paper Towel Method -*Put the tobacco in a glass bowl and take some clean paper towels and dampen them with distilled water. You can heat the water a little bit to get it warm or place the damp paper towel on a plate and put it in the microwave for a few seconds, as this might help a little with this method. Place the dampened paper towel over the bowl and very loosely cover that with some plastic wrap and let it sit for a few hours. The tobacco will absorb the moisture from the paper towel.

4)*Spray It - *Lay the tobacco out on a flat surface like a paper plate, cookie sheet, etc. and LIGHTLY spray or 'spritz' the tobacco using a CLEAN spray bottle filled with distilled water (DO NOT use a bottle that has previously contained some type of household cleaning agent or chemical. You can buy a new unused bottle at the store. If you smoke cigars you might already have one that you use for 'spritzing' your humidifiers). You want to barely dampen the tobacco not soak it. Carefully and gently toss it around a bit and put it back into the storage container and after a day or so it should be re-hydrated.

*Always use distilled water when re-hydrating tobacco.*

The proper RH of pipe tobacco is only around 10-14%.
Only re-hydrate tobacco if it is dry to the point of being crispy right before it gets to the crumbling into dust stage. If it is already moist and you add extra moisture it can start to mold.
Once the tobacco is re-hydrated, remove the humidity device from it so it does not get over humidified.
I would suggest trying a bowl or two of it in while it is dry before you re-hydrate it. You might like it on the dry side.

Do not store your pipe tobacco in a cedar box or humidor. This is for a few reasons.

1) The cedar aroma might contaminate the flavor of the tobacco.

2) The tobacco will contaminate the cedar box or humidor so you will not be able to store cigars in it for a long time.

3) The cedar, if dry, will suck all of the moisture out of the tobacco the same as it does to cigars.

If you store your tobacco properly, you should not have to re-hydrate it. Use an airtight container to store it.

You want to store your tobacco in a proper airtight container. Glass is preferable but plastic containers such as Tupperware work also. As far as glass goes, most people use either Mason Jars or an airtight bail top jar.
If you store it in plastic containers, make sure that they are new unused and leave the tobacco in the plastic bag that the B&M or online retailer put it in and put the whole baggie in the container.

The reason why glass is preferred is because it does not get contaminated like plastic. Since plastic is a porous material, if you use plastic containers that have contained food or something else it could contaminate your tobacco. If you put tobacco in a plastic container without it being in a plastic bag, the plastic of the container will absorb and retain the aroma and flavors of whatever blend you have in there, which means you can not use that bowl for another blend without a chance of contamination.


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## dartstothesea (Aug 15, 2008)

I just got done with a deep cleaning on mah pipe. Its in the drying process as of late, and im pretty excited to get that first "clean" smoke.

Just a quick question though. . . 

How often do you guys do a deep cleaning with salt/alcohol?


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## Python (Dec 3, 2007)

dartstothesea said:


> How often do you guys do a deep cleaning with salt/alcohol?


You shouldn't have to do it that often. You only need to do that when it goes sour. Letting it rest properly and doing regular cleanings, you shouldn't have to deep clean hardly ever.


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## dartstothesea (Aug 15, 2008)

^^Thanks Python.

I think when i first started i didn't follow the 24 hour rest rule. So thats probably the reason why the more recent smokes never tasted right.


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## doublebassmusician (Jul 15, 2008)

Why does some tobacco come in sealed tins? Are they like a small sample of it? How much for the tins? If not, would my local tobacco store offer a variety of tobaccos to try like a sample pack or something or where can I get them?
Do all pipe cleaners scrape the inside of the stem with the metal wire like the ones im currently using?


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## andrew (Nov 16, 2008)

Go to the wts/b/t pipe stuff forum and sign up for the newbie pipe sampler. Tins can go for $ 6-11 usually. But for starters I'd do the sampler thing. I have pipe cleaners that do the same thing on my bent pipes, I'm told it won't hurt anything.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

doublebassmusician said:


> Why does some tobacco come in sealed tins? Are they like a small sample of it? How much for the tins? If not, would my local tobacco store offer a variety of tobaccos to try like a sample pack or something or where can I get them?
> Do all pipe cleaners scrape the inside of the stem with the metal wire like the ones im currently using?


You can straighten those wires so the don't scrape. They get bent during the cutting process in the factory, probably using dull shears.

Tobacco is packaged and sold in sealed tins vs bulk. IMO if tins and bulk always went for the same price I'd never buy bulk. As it is and depending on the brand, retailer and sale prices I'd say anywhere from $6-$16. You can buy one ounce samples of the bulk tobaccos your B&M sells but whether they have the same bulks as they have tins is probably not altogether likely.


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## EvanS (Dec 29, 2006)

Don't forget to check out the old "Getting Started - Pipe FAQ" thread.

Tons of good info in there, but to inform and maybe even spur more questions


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Does anyone have any experience with the 250g tins of Sam Gawith tabaks? Looks like a great deal.

Samuel Gawith Full Virginia Flake 250g Tobaccos at Smoking Pipes .com


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## IHT (Dec 27, 2003)

i heard they aren't "tins". they are similar to the cardboard boxes that their "bulk" blends get shipped to B&Ms in, only difference is that they're smaller and the tobacco comes in a foil bag (not clear plastic like the bulk).

*this was discussed on another board, someone sent smokingpipes.com an email, and they posted the reply (which is what i just relayed above).
i'm guessing it's similar to the 8oz sealed foil bags that Esoterica blends are shipped in - just a guess, though.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

IHT said:


> i heard they aren't "tins". they are similar to the cardboard boxes that their "bulk" blends get shipped to B&Ms in, only difference is that they're smaller and the tobacco comes in a foil bag (not clear plastic like the bulk).
> 
> *this was discussed on another board, someone sent smokingpipes.com an email, and they posted the reply (which is what i just relayed above).
> i'm guessing it's similar to the 8oz sealed foil bags that Esoterica blends are shipped in - just a guess, though.


I thought maybe that was the case. It would have been a great idea for the cellar. Thanks for clarifying Greg.


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## Darth Smoker (Dec 22, 2007)

Mad Hatter said:


> Does anyone have any experience with the 250g tins of Sam Gawith tabaks? Looks like a great deal.
> 
> Samuel Gawith Full Virginia Flake 250g Tobaccos at Smoking Pipes .com


Probably get about half as much water as the "1 lb" package.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Darth Smoker said:


> Probably get about half as much water as the "1 lb" package.


I've bought several pounds of SG tabaks and they're dry as a bone as often as not, IMO.


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## Darth Smoker (Dec 22, 2007)

Mad Hatter said:


> I've bought several pounds of SG tabaks and they're dry as a bone as often as not, IMO.


as matter of fact my last lb of FVF was drier.... course it only weighed 13.5 oz


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

IHT said:


> i heard they aren't "tins". they are similar to the cardboard boxes that their "bulk" blends get shipped to B&Ms in, only difference is that they're smaller and the tobacco comes in a foil bag (not clear plastic like the bulk).
> 
> *this was discussed on another board, someone sent smokingpipes.com an email, and they posted the reply (which is what i just relayed above).
> i'm guessing it's similar to the 8oz sealed foil bags that Esoterica blends are shipped in - just a guess, though.


I was able to read the label in their sample/screenshot. It states that weight may be less due to evaporation. It does not sound like a good aging baggie :hmm:


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

RJpuffs said:


> I was able to read the label in their sample/screenshot. It states that weight may be less due to evaporation. It does not sound like a good aging baggie :hmm:


Thanks for the additional info RJ. Loks like pounds and mason jars is still the way to go :dunno:


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

Tinder Box is pushing a blend called Reserve 1928. Anyone tried it?


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## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

The Reserve is their tinned blend. It's supposed to be their best seller. I've got a tin of it in the cellar, haven't opened it up yet though. Keep forgetting it's there. 

WWhermit


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## PipesandGOP (Feb 7, 2008)

I've always wondered this and have never really found an answer- On the pipe side of things it's often said that as soon as you open a tin the aging process stops. Why I don't know. The tobacco had been aging before it was ever put in a tin so why is this seal held so sacred? Also, it's always been my understanding that as tobacco ages it gives off amonia which needs to be released from whatever confines it's held in. I've read plenty about it but for some reason it just doesn't click for me. Especially when cigars are tobacco too yet it isn't a big deal that they aren't shipped in a vacum sealed container if they're going to be aged. Humidity and temperature are what matter with them (and the same goes for studies in tobacco aging and curing in general); why is the general consensus that it's so different for pipe tobacco?


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

PipesandGOP said:


> I've always wondered this and have never really found an answer- On the pipe side of things it's often said that as soon as you open a tin the aging process stops. Why I don't know. The tobacco had been aging before it was ever put in a tin so why is this seal held so sacred? Also, it's always been my understanding that as tobacco ages it gives off amonia which needs to be released from whatever confines it's held in. I've read plenty about it but for some reason it just doesn't click for me. Especially when cigars are tobacco too yet it isn't a big deal that they aren't shipped in a vacum sealed container if they're going to be aged. Humidity and temperature are what matter with them (and the same goes for studies in tobacco aging and curing in general); why is the general consensus that it's so different for pipe tobacco?


Pipe tobacco ages in two ways, or so GL Pease tells us.

Aerobic bacterium gobble and nibble and break down the sugars, making the leaf yummier. Aerobic = air/oxygen. Aerobic critters are slow, the flow of fresh air probably introduces other critters that compete for the food source and/or eat the aerobics.

Anaerobic bacterium live in non-oxygenated space. In a sealed tin, once the aerobic dudes have consumed the available O2, they croak and are promptly eaten by the anaerobic fellas; who then proceed to digest and fermet the leaf at a faster pace, probably unhindered by fresh arrivals.

A third kind was also mentioned that lived in both O2 and CO2 environments.

All baccy will "age", but the introduction of fresh air will slow the process bu upsetting the delicate biosphere within the tin/jar. Unlike cigar aging (with its associated ammonia/windex fumes); tins do not ooze stinky stuff (unless you're trying to age latakia). Cigars are aged in humidors which are no air tight as tins are.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Will my tobacco last longer if I vacuum seal it everytime after I get some out to smoke??


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