# Pipe Stem Restoration/Protection



## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

An interesting discussion on pipe stem restoration cropped up in the Fountain Pen Love thread. I thought I'd try to transfer it to a new thread here by copying and pasting those posts.


whiskeredbat said:


> Dear Piper, thank you. That's how I started. Got to thinking - misaligned tines equate to bad ink flow. The part that touches the paper, the tip, is not part of the equation here. A scratchy tip is a scratchy tip regardless. Out came the sandpaper and the rest, as they say, was history. Do let us know how it works out.
> 
> Be safe brother





whiskeredbat said:


> Dear Piper,
> I have been using Walker Briar Works 'Pipe Stem Deoxidiser/Cleaner' with great success (my post on estate pipes). Don't know what's in the formula but it's pure magic. Perhaps you good people inv the USA can get Mike Meyers (the new owner I think) to re-release the item. I'd call Dave Wolff my friend as we share similar values. Also I think my friend's dog is in love with his dog, Missy:grin2:.
> 
> Be safe brother





Piper said:


> Mike Myers has repaired/refurbished a few of my pipes. He did a great job. I'll see if he's still making the pipe stem magic. Question: does it damage the vulcanite or the logos on the pipe? :smile2:





whiskeredbat said:


> Have used the paste on about 20 vulcanite stems. 3 of the pipes/stems were pre 60s. Rubbing with the paste only removes the oxidisation. Only brown stains on the polishing cloth - nothing black.
> 
> As for the logos, in the attached Sasieni the logo was *not* taped over when stem polishing. Logo still intact and level with vulcanite.
> 
> ...





Piper said:


> Thanks for the report @whiskeredbat. That Pipe Stem Deoxidizer/Cleaner truly is magic. I contacted Mike Myers at Walker Pipe Repair about where to get it. He wrote back that Pipe Stem Deoxidizer/Cleaner was made by Dave Wolff at Walker Briar Works, but no longer is. Of course you cited Briar Works, not Repair, in your post but I had already dealt with Mike and I believe the two businesses were once related. PSD/C is not listed on Dave Wolff's website either. I'll try to contact Dave and see if he can be coaxed into making it or telling us what's in it.
> 
> Beautiful Sasieni 4 dot by the way. @Fusion has a Dunny cumberland that could be its brother.





whiskeredbat said:


> That would be great brother. It's the only paste that doesn't need too much effort or elbow grease. A coat of olive olive after that and the stem gleams like the Dickens (like the stems on the 2 Dunhills).
> 
> The Sasieni cost me all of US$65 :smile2: as the seller didn't want to clean it up.
> 
> ...





Fusion said:


> My Dunny


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

I'm sorry I couldn't mange to transfer the excellent pictures to this thread, especially the ones @whiskerbat posted of his vulcanite stems before and after using the, now discontinued, Pipe Stem Cleaner/Deoxidizer. I hope he'll repost them here.

Below are two pictures of a Dunhill pipe made in 1980 that I must have purchased shortly thereafter. It's a small pipe and the first Dunny I could afford to buy. Over the years I did nothing to protect the vulcanite stem. There is even a hole in the bit where I clench it. Luckily, the hole is covered by my lips so it doesn't affect the smokeability of the pipe. I had a new stem made by Mike Myers of Walker Pipe Repair. He did a beautiful job but I end up using this old stem to keep the new one in pristine shape.

When I photographed the Dunny to post on the What's in Your Bowl thread I noticed that the oxidation was really only apparent in the harsh white light of the flash. In ordinary daylight, it's much less noticeable, although there is no sheen. I have been applying obsidian oil to it after every use for the last year or so but I have no idea whether that has made any difference. I'd really love to get hold of some of that Pipe Stem Cleaner/Deoxidizer!


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

The Dunhill Bent Bulldog, very much like the 4 dot


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

Piper said:


> I'm sorry I couldn't mange to transfer the excellent pictures to this thread, especially the ones @whiskerbat posted of his vulcanite stems before and after using the, now discontinued, Pipe Stem Cleaner/Deoxidizer. I hope he'll repost them here.
> 
> Below are two pictures of a Dunhill pipe made in 1980 that I must have purchased shortly thereafter. It's a small pipe and the first Dunny I could afford to buy. Over the years I did nothing to protect the vulcanite stem. There is even a hole in the bit where I clench it. Luckily, the hole is covered by my lips so it doesn't affect the smokeability of the pipe. I had a new stem made by Mike Myers of Walker Pipe Repair. He did a beautiful job but I end up using this old stem to keep the new one in pristine shape.
> 
> When I photographed the Dunny to post on the What's in Your Bowl thread I noticed that the oxidation was really only apparent in the harsh white light of the flash. In ordinary daylight, it's much less noticeable, although there is no sheen. I have been applying obsidian oil to it after every use for the last year or so but I have no idea whether that has made any difference. I'd really love to get hold of some of that Pipe Stem Cleaner/Deoxidizer!


A few hrs in an Oxyclean solution brings out all the oxidisation and nicotine thats on the stem, then its a few hrs of hard work with some very fine sanding pads (6000 to12000 grit) is how i was doing it, the hole can be repaired with black superglue but iv never tried on a hole, just some deep tooth marks.


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## OneStrangeOne (Sep 10, 2016)

I've used oxy-clean followed by micromesh on several old pipes (40's - 60's) with good result's. I did manage to erase the logo on my Comoy's, it was the first one I tried. I wouldn't use this method on something that wasn't in very bad shape, the ones I had were beyond green they were brown, to the point that I wasn't even sure that they had ever been black. David, @Piper have you tried toothpaste? It will remove some of the surface oxidation and is not as harsh as bleach or Oxyclean. A magic eraser pad will also remove some.


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

I wasn't that upset by the oxidation on my old vulcanite stems. A few needed serious repair and I had new ones made by Mike Myers. I'm afraid to put anything abrasive on the stems, even toothpaste or magic eraser. I'm waiting for the magical potion that @whiskeredbat referenced.


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

This 1966 Dunny shows the same difference in appearance of the stem between natural and bright light. Since I'm usually in the dark, both literally and figuratively, anyway, having stems that look bad only in bright light shouldn't be too big a problem.:smile2:


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

There is the Flame method but :vs_OMG:


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

Fusion said:


> There is the Flame method but :vs_OMG:


Sounds heroic. What's the methodology?


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

Piper said:


> Sounds heroic. What's the methodology?


You have a flame, usually a candle, damp cloth in hand, pass the stem thru the flame, it burns off the oxidation wipe with damp cloth, repeat, supposed to work really good if you dont melt the stem lol


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

Fusion said:


> You have a flame, usually a candle, damp cloth in hand, pass the stem thru the flame, it burns off the oxidation wipe with damp cloth, repeat, supposed to work really good if you dont melt the stem lol


I love the smell of rubber in the morning!:smile2:


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## whiskeredbat (Mar 14, 2020)

Fusion said:


> The Dunhill Bent Bulldog, very much like the 4 dot


That,sir, is one handsome pipe. The blast is very organic. Reminds me of a cockle. :smile2:

Be safe


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## whiskeredbat (Mar 14, 2020)

Piper said:


> I'm sorry I couldn't mange to transfer the excellent pictures to this thread, especially the ones @whiskerbat posted of his vulcanite stems before and after using the, now discontinued, Pipe Stem Cleaner/Deoxidizer. I hope he'll repost them here.


Dear Piper, here you go sir. Your Dunnys (new term for me) are beautiful!

Be safe


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

Not as bad as @whiskeredbat Dunnys but i picked up a Peterson System 307 for next to nothing, this is the stem after 4 hrs in an Oxyclean bath, looked not bad before it went in, the oxyclean brings all the crud to the surface, couple of days and some elbow grease should have it looking much better, hardly a toothmark, the bowl isnt so bad but its getting a salt and IPA bath


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

whiskeredbat said:


> Dear Piper, here you go sir. Your Dunnys (new term for me) are beautiful!
> 
> Be safe


Wow! That is quite the transformation. Was that accomplished using the magic stem cleaner/deoxidizer?

I have heard back from Dave Wolff about his magic compound. I'm just waiting to get his permission to reprint his reply, which was very complete.


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## whiskeredbat (Mar 14, 2020)

Piper said:


> Wow! That is quite the transformation. Was that accomplished using the magic stem cleaner/deoxidizer?
> 
> I have heard back from Dave Wolff about his magic compound. I'm just waiting to get his permission to reprint his reply, which was very complete.


Dear Piper,
Part A: yes, it was using the magic stem cleaner/deoxidizer. First a wash in bearable hot water using just dishwashing soap and Scotch Brite pad (the yellow part). That took off the uneven brown crud on the surface. This was years of accumulated dirt and not oxidisation.
Once the stems were dry and smooth the stem cleaner was smeared all over and rubbed in. Immediately you can see the polishing cloth stained brown. Keeping going at it till the stem is black. Also used the stem cleaner inside the stem using a stem cleaning plastic bristle brush (bought mine from Smokingpipes). Amazing how much of brown stuff was inside the stem.

Part B: Apparently, the stem cleaner draws the oxidisation to the surface. Cleaning the stem inside and out draws out the oxidisation both ways. Once done to satisfaction a cloth dabbed with olive olive was rubbed in once every day for about 3 days I think. This turns the stem a deep black. Finally a polish with Carnauba wax so the stem looks glossy like it's wet. I don't have pure Carnauba wax so I used Turtle wax. No complaints.

Total time taken for Part A was about 2 hours.

Be safe brother


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## whiskeredbat (Mar 14, 2020)

While we are at it I'd like to share how I fixed the bowls of the pipes.

Disclaimer: This is not directed at the experienced pipers or restorers who are way better at this sort of things than I can be. Want newbies to look into estate pipes and save themselves money by DIY. Most old pipes can be restored to at least a large part of their former glory. As the saying goes 'Just because there is snow on the roof doesn't mean there is no fire in the hearth'. It's for something entirely different but what the heck:vs_laugh:.

Everything was done using tools at hand, nothing professional like sanders or buffing wheels. Though I use a Dremel at times. Please note that the method is for stained only pipes. I don't smoke lacquer/varnish finished pipes so I don't go there.

Both pipes came in extremely dirty - seller didn't even know they were Dunhills. I only recognised them from the shapes. The dots were not visible.

1) A complete ream of bowls down to bare wood - till you can see blond.
2) A wash and brush in bearable hot water. I used a stiff plastic bristled shoe brush (looks like a large toothbrush) available from most shoe repair stores. The brush is only for sandblasts. Just a wash for smooth bowls. The finish may dull but we can fix that later.
3) Once completely dry, rejuvenate the outsides of the bowls with several very light coatings of mineral oil. A large bottle of food grade mineral oil can be bought at Ikea for a few dollars. I usually go for 5 coats, drying between coats. Old pipes can be very dry and smoking sometimes cracks them. Introducing oil into the fibres makes them more tolerant to heat.
4) Salt and alcohol treatment. Wrap a cotton bud with a bit of plastic sheet and stick it tightly into the shank. Fill the bowl with sea salt (I find table salt too fine) and introduce alcohol a little at a time till no more can be absorbed. Make sure the salt is not too tightly packed. It will swell and may crack the bowl. After a day or so the salt will turn dark. Remove and repeat till the salt is very light coloured. I use vodka as alcohol of choice - clear and hardly any smell.
5) After all salt is removed, use a damp cloth and wipe inside of bowl a few times. Dry completely and polish the bowl with Carnauba wax. Turtle wax with Carnauba works great. Now you are good to go.

Attached is a Dunhill salt/alcohol treated and cleaned for a friend. Notice the colour change of the salt. Got a bottle of Laphroaig 15 yrs as a thank you:smile2:.

Be safe


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

@whiskeredbat-a great pipe restoration manual. I assume the brown stuff may be the layer of oxidized vulcanite that is being gently abraded by the magic compound.

I don't have any pipes in as rough shape but I wonder whether it might be worth rubbing mineral oil on my old Dunhill shell blasts like the one in the picture above. I have Paragon was but not carnauba wax for the finish. You don't rub carnauba inside the bowl do you?


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## whiskeredbat (Mar 14, 2020)

Piper said:


> @whiskeredbat-a great pipe restoration manual. I assume the brown stuff may be the layer of oxidized vulcanite that is being gently abraded by the magic compound.
> 
> I don't have any pipes in as rough shape but I wonder whether it might be worth rubbing mineral oil on my old Dunhill shell blasts like the one in the picture above. I have Paragon was but not carnauba wax for the finish. You don't rub carnauba inside the bowl do you?


Dear Piper, thank you.

No sir, I do not rub carnauba or anything else inside the bowl. I know there are pipers who like to rub liquid sugar or maple syrup to help carbon buildup but one wrong puffing session (eg. smoking too fast) and you'll get a bitter burnt taste. Too much effort to re-work everything. Let the tobacco do it's thing - non aromatics are my tobacco of choice as the bare wood will absorb flavours much like ghosting.

Before using mineral oil it's best to remove any buildup on the bowl, eg. oils from hands, any tobacco oils than seep through the wood. Washing the pipe till you get a dull finish works best I've found.

I am not familiar with Paragon. Auto wax with high carnauba content works fine as you use so little of it to adversely affect the pipe.

Be safe brother


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## UBC03 (Nov 18, 2015)

Piper said:


> @whiskeredbat-a great pipe restoration manual. I assume the brown stuff may be the layer of oxidized vulcanite that is being gently abraded by the magic compound.
> 
> I don't have any pipes in as rough shape but I wonder whether it might be worth rubbing mineral oil on my old Dunhill shell blasts like the one in the picture above. I have Paragon was but not carnauba wax for the finish. You don't rub carnauba inside the bowl do you?


If you use a buffer like me, you'll get dust from compounds and wax IN the bowl. I get a paper towel, wet it with rum, and wipe down the inside of the bowl. It removes the dust but evaporates quickly.

For yunz guys that refurbish without buffers. I have 3 stitched flannel wheels and 3 loose flannel wheels, one multiple speed dremel with loose and stitched flannel wheels, and a small low speed dremel with a loose flannel I use just to get excess wax out of the valleys in rusticated and pebbled pipes. I have all that working and it's still a PITA. I couldn't imagine doing it by hand, especially since all my compounds as well as my carnauba are in stick and disks.

It takes days to get the pipes cleaned, disinfected, salted, and ready for buffing. Once all that's done, It takes me 10 minutes to put 6 coats of wax on the pipe and stem. It's gotta take yunz forever.

All my respect, cause if I had to do this by hand, I'd find a new hobby. lol

Sent from my bunker


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## JohnBrody15 (Mar 20, 2016)

It's the olive oil.....it's the one thing I haven't done, but I've read about it all over the place. I can't get anything to shine like @wiskeredbat's stems, even using oxiclean, magic erasure, wax, a buffer, etc....I'm gonna give olive oil a try. 



I read about guys using olive oil to shine up the whole pipe as well.


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## UBC03 (Nov 18, 2015)

I've never used olive oil. I know it'll go rancid in the container. Wouldn't it do the same on a stem? 

Sent from my bunker


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## whiskeredbat (Mar 14, 2020)

JohnBrody15 said:


> It's the olive oil.....it's the one thing I haven't done, but I've read about it all over the place. I can't get anything to shine like @wiskeredbat's stems, even using oxiclean, magic erasure, wax, a buffer, etc....I'm gonna give olive oil a try.
> 
> I read about guys using olive oil to shine up the whole pipe as well.


Dear John, I have tried oxiclean and 2% chlorine solution. Problem is they eat into the vulcanite and you end up with a dull, rough finish. Buffing after that is a bitch. Even when shiny, when the stem catches the light you'll see striations.

Using olive oil on bowls works...if you finish off with a wax. On their own the oil becomes tacky, perhaps from the heat of the bowl. I am not sure.

Be safe


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## whiskeredbat (Mar 14, 2020)

UBC03 said:


> I've never used olive oil. I know it'll go rancid in the container. Wouldn't it do the same on a stem?
> 
> Sent from my bunker


Dear UBC03, love your sense of humor -re earlier post. Some tobacco, a bottle of whisky and we'll get on like a house on fire and irritate everyone else:smile2:.

I only use the oil to rub and darken the stem. By the time I am finished the stem is dry. Then the wax is applied. Never olive oil on it's own. For some reason it becomes tacky. Over time I have not detected any unpleasant odours.

Be safe sir


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## OneStrangeOne (Sep 10, 2016)

UBC03 said:


> I've never used olive oil. I know it'll go rancid in the container. Wouldn't it do the same on a stem?
> 
> Sent from my bunker


I don't believe it would be a problem using it for the stems since it's not gonna soak into the rubber anyway. I've talked with other piper's and the general consensus is that using it on an unwaxed or raw bowl is a no-no because some of it will soak into the wood .


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

That's why I use Paragon wax for smooth and ornamented pipes and Halcyon II wax for rusticated and blasts. Except I dont't use it very often. The main virtue is that it can be hand buffed. Both are available on smokingpipes.com.


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

I use the Decatur pipe shield wax, readily available


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

This after about 45 mins with a micro mesh, still some staining, now for the 6000 to 12000 grit pads


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

1 hr with fine grit pads and its almost there, will get out my polishing wheel later today and finish it off


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

All done, happy with it, it has a slight problem, the tap drain (the system drain) is blocked with hard cake, it will still smoke but wont be a "System" pipe


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

Managed to unplug the trap, smoking great :thumb:


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

I heard back to day from Dave Wolff of WalkerBriarWorks.com, the maker of the miracle stem compound referenced by @whiskeredbat. He have me permission to post his email response to my question about whether he can, or would, make this amazing stuff. I've posted both his response to my original question and then his response to my request to quote him, which contains some further clarification:

_We made a Vulcanite Stem Restoration Kit for several years. The bad news is that we don't (can't) make the Deoxidizer/Cleaner any longer. We are unable to get a main ingredient needed to make the stuff, and believe me, we have tried. It has been a problem for the last couple of years, but now all sources are gone.

As a not quite as good, but satisfactory substitute, use a medium grit automobile rubbing compound. It is not as good as ours was, but in my experience, much better than anything else available, and will remove the oxidation without harming your mouthpiece. Then, use clear paste Carnauba wax for wood as a polish. It will also seal the Vulcanite so it will take much longer to oxidize again. Using it every now and then will keep your mouthpiece looking nice and is not harmful to you.

No problem with a reprint, just though, please make it clear at the beginning not to expect the same results as those with out product, but they will be very good. The ingredients we can't get anymore really were critical to the results from our deoxidizer cleaner.

I'm always glad to share what I know and pass on any information I have regarding pipes. Everyone should know all they can know to make them better._

Dave Wolff, like many of the pipe world professionals, is a true gentleman!:vs_cool:


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## TonyBrooklyn (Jan 28, 2010)

Piper said:


> I heard back to day from Dave Wolff of WalkerBriarWorks.com, the maker of the miracle stem compound referenced by @whiskeredbat. He have me permission to post his email response to my question about whether he can, or would, make this amazing stuff. I've posted both his response to my original question and then his response to my request to quote him, which contains some further clarification:
> 
> _We made a Vulcanite Stem Restoration Kit for several years. The bad news is that we don't (can't) make the Deoxidizer/Cleaner any longer. We are unable to get a main ingredient needed to make the stuff, and believe me, we have tried. It has been a problem for the last couple of years, but now all sources are gone.
> 
> ...


_First a bath in Clear non Sudsing Ammonia is in order.
Then a good automotive rubbing compound like what i buff the vintage Brushes with.
High speed variable speed buffer. Wool buffing pad.
I have over the years restored many automotive pieces for classic automobiles in this manner.
I carried this method over to the brushes for restoration as well. You that follow the thread have seen the results.
Start slow till you get comfortable both with speed and pressure.
My favorite Compound over the years has been 3M. :vs_cool:
_


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## TonyBrooklyn (Jan 28, 2010)

_Also for pieces not to badly oxidised , you can skip the Ammonia bath.
24 Hrs in dish detergent works well on the brushes.
I am sure it would work on stems as well.
Mind you i have used this system on every piece of plastic you can think of.
Practice on something that looks hopeless.
The results will amaze you.
Best of luck.:vs_cool:_


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

Tony @TonyBrooklyn, can you use 3M automotive compound for buffing pipe stems by hand or do you need a buffer?


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## TonyBrooklyn (Jan 28, 2010)

Piper said:


> Tony @TonyBrooklyn, can you use 3M automotive compound for buffing pipe stems by hand or do you need a buffer?


_To answer your question honestly.
If a very high gloss finish is what you are looking for.
No but you can remove oxidation and such by hand.
Hope this helps rather than confuses.
I am upstate now till this is Viral Crap is over.
When i get to Brooklyn i would be happy to take your stems up to the shop.
Bring them back on my way down. :vs_cool:_


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## TonyBrooklyn (Jan 28, 2010)

_@Piper

Or you could if your in a hurry ship them i would be happy to buff them out.
Nothing else going on, But i have a feeling this is something you want to do for yourself.
After thinking about it for a moment with the lock down and all.
Boredom is a great motivator.
Stay safe!_ :vs_cool:


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

TonyBrooklyn said:


> _@Piper
> 
> Or you could if your in a hurry ship them i would be happy to buff them out.
> Nothing else going on, But i have a feeling this is something you want to do for yourself.
> ...


Thanks Tony. Based on the results you get with your shaving brushes, I know those stems would come out looking better than new. Had I known about your generous offer a couple of years ago I would have taken you up on it. I sent a couple of well-smoked but not well-cared-for Dunhills to Mike Myers for a complete overhaul. He fashioned two new vulcanite stems complete with the white dot logos, scoured the entire airway, lightly sanded the gunk off the rims and re-stained and waxed the stummels. They came out beautifully. I take much better care of my pipes nowadays but, perversely, I still use the original stems when I smoke the pipes.

But Tony, you were being too thoughtful about my wanting to do the work myself. I think it would be fun and rewarding to develop a new skill but I like my pipes too much to risk damaging them. I would send them to you in a NY minute.:vs_cool:


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## TonyBrooklyn (Jan 28, 2010)

Piper said:


> Thanks Tony. Based on the results you get with your shaving brushes, I know those stems would come out looking better than new. Had I known about your generous offer a couple of years ago I would have taken you up on it. I sent a couple of well-smoked but not well-cared-for Dunhills to Mike Myers for a complete overhaul. He fashioned two new vulcanite stems complete with the white dot logos, scoured the entire airway, lightly sanded the gunk off the rims and re-stained and waxed the stummels. They came out beautifully. I take much better care of my pipes nowadays but, perversely, I still use the original stems when I smoke the pipes.
> 
> But Tony, you were being too thoughtful about my wanting to do the work myself. I think it would be fun and rewarding to develop a new skill but I like my pipes too much to risk damaging them. I would send them to you in a NY minute.:vs_cool:


:wink2:


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## JohnBrody15 (Mar 20, 2016)

Such great info in this thread. @Fusion's stem came out real nice, and that's using the method I know. Oxy bath, magic erasure, then high micro mesh, then wax on the buffing wheel. But it looks like what yous others guys are talking about, oxy bath, rubbing compound (buffed on), then buffing wheel with wax? So the rubbing compound can the place of the magic erasure and micromesh?


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

Finally a polish with Carnauba wax so the stem looks glossy like it's wet. I don't have pure Carnauba wax so I used Turtle wax. No complaints.
[/QUOTE]

Would this Trewax work? I will use it mostly for the stummel and try to buff with an electric shoe shine buffer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SRV1PI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1


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## whiskeredbat (Mar 14, 2020)

Piper said:


> Finally a polish with Carnauba wax so the stem looks glossy like it's wet. I don't have pure Carnauba wax so I used Turtle wax. No complaints.


Would this Trewax work? I will use it mostly for the stummel and try to buff with an electric shoe shine buffer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SRV1PI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1[/QUOTE]

Dear Piper, for stumels I have used any available auto and wood waxes with high Carnauba content (according to labels) with highly satisfactory results. Just have to make sure there is no beewax in the mix. Beewax becomes tacky like olive oil when the pipe is hot. Learnt it the hard way. Then you have to clean everything up and start again.

Or you could melt some Carnauba chips - these work only with an electric buffer. Don't buy the blocks. You'll be cursing to the middle of next week trying to break off pieces for use.

Attached: my Chacom Volutes after bowl polishing with Chemical Guys Carnauba auto wax.

Be safe brother


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

whiskeredbat said:


> Would this Trewax work? I will use it mostly for the stummel and try to buff with an electric shoe shine buffer.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SRV1PI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1


Dear Piper, for stumels I have used any available auto and wood waxes with high Carnauba content (according to labels) with highly satisfactory results. Just have to make sure there is no beewax in the mix. Beewax becomes tacky like olive oil when the pipe is hot. Learnt it the hard way. Then you have to clean everything up and start again.

Or you could melt some Carnauba chips - these work only with an electric buffer. Don't buy the blocks. You'll be cursing to the middle of next week trying to break off pieces for use.

Attached: my Chacom Volutes after bowl polishing with Chemical Guys Carnauba auto wax.

Be safe brother[/QUOTE]

I'm going to go ahead and order Trewax. Thanks for the warning about bees wax. Your pipes look beautiful and the shine only adds to their beauty.


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

This new old stock Sasieni turned out to be a bit more of a PITA than i thought it was going to be, after some research it seems the pipe is from the late 80's
At that time and anytime after that date the 4 dots were painted on the stem and not "inserted" as they were before then.
The pipe seems like it had been stored in a smokey room and it had a light green oxidation on the stem, had to be very gentle with it as i didnt want to rub off the dots.
Started with No 3 Novus cream, the most abrasive (still very gentle, its used to get marks out of plexiglass fish tanks) and that didnt help at all, had to go with the micro pads, started with 8000 grit and after about 1 hr i had most of it cleaned off, then hit with the 12000, got it all off, i would usually get my buffer out at this stage but i didnt want to chance it, put some Decantur polish on it and called it a day, first pic is before, second is after


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## zcziggy (Apr 11, 2019)

It came out pretty good, maybe some of that oil?


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## Piper (Nov 30, 2008)

Big improvement in that Sasieni.


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

I found some restorer thats made by a guy who restores pens, i spoke to him and have ordered some, will report back when i get it


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

These are the before and after pics the guy that makes the cleaner posted, hope it works this good


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

So the stem restorer came today, i picked out my worst stem and gave it a go, i will say it works, i bought the extra strength, its a very sticky thick paste like substance, put it on with a Q tip left for 20 mins and wiped off, dont leave it too long as it gets kinda hard to wipe off.
Web site is https://www.lbepen.com
Before and after pics, the stem was worse than it looks in the before pic


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