# How I Restore An Estate Batch. PIC HEAVY!



## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

lolz


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

Thanks for the details. Those are cleaning up nicely so far. Neat to see the transformation of the Peterson. That's going to be a real beauty. This particular style is one of the pipes on my wish list. I'll be browsing the estates on ebay when I get the budget for it.


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## Dagesh (Jan 23, 2014)

This is awesome having the play by play with pics. I've been contemplating an estate pipe as my first and I thought giving it a good restore would further our relationship. I'm waiting with bated breath for the next episode.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

********.com


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## irie (Aug 29, 2013)

awesome thread thanks man


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## Emperor Zurg (May 6, 2013)

Ugh!

All this work makes $100 for a new Savinelli seem like a steal.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

irie said:


> awesome thread thanks man


No problem, I'm looking forward to doing the next installment soon.



Emperor Zurg said:


> Ugh!
> 
> All this work makes $100 for a new Savinelli seem like a steal.


Exactly! Most people don't realize how much work goes into making these old pipes smoke-worthy again. Most people don't understand why classic pipes cost so much either. Well the work it takes to even make them function again is why! I have a pipe from the 1950's that took 6 days to restore! 6 DAYS! :lol:


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## TonyBrooklyn (Jan 28, 2010)

Lots of great info here subscribed!


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## Tobias Lutz (Feb 18, 2013)

So far the only thing you have done that varies from my routine is the use of isopropyl alcohol for the salt treatment. I typically use Everclear, or more commonly, 151. The benefit is that I can drink the leftovers rather than saving them for sterilizing a wound ipe: Great thread! If this finishes as it has started I would almost say it should be made a Sticky.


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## rhounsell (Nov 3, 2013)

Just an amazing thread, I literally know nothing about pipes but I am in awe of your attention to detail and meticulous work.

Seeing where these pipes started and the night and day difference after each treatment really is amazing even to the untrained eye.

Looking forward to the next phase and finished product.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

TonyBrooklyn said:


> Lots of great info here subscribed!





Tobias Lutz said:


> So far the only thing you have done that varies from my routine is the use of isopropyl alcohol for the salt treatment. I typically use Everclear, or more commonly, 151. The benefit is that I can drink the leftovers rather than saving them for sterilizing a wound ipe: Great thread! If this finishes as it has started I would almost say it should be made a Sticky.


Thank you guys.

I was helping a couple guys get set up with doing estate pipes, and I remembered when I first started and how frustrated I was not being able to find very thorough or well thought out instructions to help me along the way. I had quite a few f-ups when I first started, so it influenced me to make a stream-lined, step by step instructional in hopes of helping get other people who are interested in the hobby rolling.

Oh, and yes Tobias, the one down side to using the 91% iso is the inability to drink it, but I do find it helps make my pipe cleaning supplies last a lot longer! :lol:


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## Packerjh (Nov 29, 2009)

I'm intrigued!


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

lolz ********.com


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

lolz ********.com


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

Branzig said:


> *Quick Note: I don't literally leave the pipes tilted on another pipe's stem like in the picture. That was just a quick shot for display purposes. I keep them in pipe rests or Tupperware leaning up...that way if they do fall over or spill they only ruin their own finishes and not another finished pipe!


I have seen a trick elsewhere that should be worth doing. Since the high-proof alcohol and gunk could also mess up a pipe stand, set your pipes during S/A treatment into an open egg carton. The shape of the carton lends well to a stable multi-pipe stand, and it can always be disposed if it gets dirty.


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## Tobias Lutz (Feb 18, 2013)

I sit my bowls in a dish full of uncooked rice when they are getting the salt treatment. Keeps them upright every time.


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

The finished pipes look terrific! Bummer about the Grabow. One fix I've read about, if you have a pipe with an irreplaceable stem is to get (or make) a two-way tenon, drill out the stem, and fit the tenon between the new mortise of the stem and that of the shank. maybe not necessary with a Grabow, but it would suck to lose the brand marks off a fancier pipe by replacing the whole stem (although there are techniques used by the pros for that issue too.)


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## DanTheSmoker (Nov 24, 2013)

Not into pipes at all but this was really cool. Love how they turned out. It looks like all that hard work paid off.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

cpmcdill said:


> I have seen a trick elsewhere that should be worth doing. Since the high-proof alcohol and gunk could also mess up a pipe stand, set your pipes during S/A treatment into an open egg carton. The shape of the carton lends well to a stable multi-pipe stand, and it can always be disposed if it gets dirty.





Tobias Lutz said:


> I sit my bowls in a dish full of uncooked rice when they are getting the salt treatment. Keeps them upright every time.


Hey those are pretty neat ideas!

I have seen where they use ice cube trays too, but I like the egg carton and rice ideas more. Mainly because I always have the egg cartons on hand in the fridge and rice in the pantry haha.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

cpmcdill said:


> The finished pipes look terrific! Bummer about the Grabow. One fix I've read about, if you have a pipe with an irreplaceable stem is to get (or make) a two-way tenon, drill out the stem, and fit the tenon between the new mortise of the stem and that of the shank. maybe not necessary with a Grabow, but it would suck to lose the brand marks off a fancier pipe by replacing the whole stem (although there are techniques used by the pros for that issue too.)


Thanks! It was a lot of work, but a lot of fun too!

If the stem was off a spendy collector pipe, I would be pretty devastated.

With it being a Grabow, I am hoping that I can find a stem off a junk pipe and replace it. Either that or I will trade/sell the pipe bowl to someone who wants it.

Whenever something like this happens, my mind races wondering "what if this could of been the best smoker in my collection?!" :lol:


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## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

Some friendly observations/notes:

- You might think about grabbing a couple of buffing wheels for red & white compound (~$20 from any hardware store). Those super high-grit abrasive pads get expensive. And are a lot of work. You could sand with 400 or so, then use red compound followed by white followed by wax. It'll be faster and you'll get results you just can't with any grit of sandpaper. And you'll be building up a new skill--namely, buffing stems, which is good, because if you are anything like me this restoration slope is only going to end with making your own pipes!
- The 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. . .I assume you've bought a grade that has no added scent. Anyone wanting to do this kind of work should know that most Isopropyl you buy in a store has a strong additive to keep people from drinking it. This will linger in your pipes.

All-in-all: Pretty work, sir. Keep it up!


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

CaptainEnormous said:


> Some friendly observations/notes:
> 
> - You might think about grabbing a couple of buffing wheels for red & white compound (~$20 from any hardware store). Those super high-grit abrasive pads get expensive. And are a lot of work. You could sand with 400 or so, then use red compound followed by white followed by wax. It'll be faster and you'll get results you just can't with any grit of sandpaper. And you'll be building up a new skill--namely, buffing stems, which is good, because if you are anything like me this restoration slope is only going to end with making your own pipes!
> - The 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. . .I assume you've bought a grade that has no added scent. Anyone wanting to do this kind of work should know that most Isopropyl you buy in a store has a strong additive to keep people from drinking it. This will linger in your pipes.
> ...


First aid grade 91% is not denatured and dries 100% scent free. Its the same stuff we used in organic chemistry.

I have done the buffing wheel thing and I've discussed it on here before. I just find I like the finish with the hand sand approach more and enjoy going through the hand process more.

Thanks for the kind words! Im working on a new batch currently. Darn PAD lol


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## irie (Aug 29, 2013)

these turned out awesome, great thread man.


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## Chris0673 (Aug 20, 2012)

Wow! Great write up, man! Thanks. I've got a few pipes that need to be be restored and buffed. 

This thread should be a sticky!


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

Chris0673 said:


> Wow! Great write up, man! Thanks. I've got a few pipes that need to be be restored and buffed.
> 
> This thread should be a sticky!


Thank you for the kind words. I hope this thread inspires you to get out and fix up those pipes you have waiting!

:thumb:


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## Indy-hp (Feb 22, 2014)

I know nothing about pipes, but this is fascinating. I always love to see old things restored the right way. Nice work, sir!


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## JustTroItIn (Jan 12, 2014)

What type of B&M store would sell carnauba wax?


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## gtechva (Mar 9, 2014)

Very nice. Thanks for the extra time you took making pictures and writing this up. What is a system pipe?


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

gtechva said:


> Very nice. Thanks for the extra time you took making pictures and writing this up. What is a system pipe?


Thank you for the kind words.

A system pipe has a small reservoir in the base of the bowl that catches extra moisture and makes for a drier, gurgle free smoke. They work wonderful.

Here's a picture of what the inside workings of a system pipe looks like:


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## bluesman.54 (Apr 13, 2013)

Great thread! Thank you for putting it up. I use many of the same techniques but picked up a few pointers. Tobias is right -- this should be made a sticky. Thanks again!


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

Branzig said:


> Here's a picture of what the inside workings of a system pipe looks like:
> View attachment 48378


That's a very useful picture, as it really helps to know what to dig around for when cleaning the inside. I'm guessing alcohol soaked q-tips for the reservoir. Is that what you use? And how often?


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

cpmcdill said:


> That's a very useful picture, as it really helps to know what to dig around for when cleaning the inside. I'm guessing alcohol soaked q-tips for the reservoir. Is that what you use? And how often?


Yes sir, Q-tips and alcohol clean out the mortise and reservoir very well.

I deep clean all of my briars once a month with alcohol.


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

@Branzig,

Ever read this book? I'm reading it now, and it seems like a great how-to and reference on buying and restoring estate pipes (and reselling):

Dave Whitney - OLD BRIAR - Pipe Smoking on a Budget
Amazon.com: OLD BRIAR - Pipe Smoking on a Budget eBook: Dave Whitney: Kindle Store


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

cpmcdill said:


> @Branzig,
> 
> Ever read this book? I'm reading it now, and it seems like a great how-to and reference on buying and restoring estate pipes (and reselling):
> 
> ...


No sir I have not, but it looks like it would be a good read! Something that I should consider picking up for sure! :thumb:


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## gtechva (Mar 9, 2014)

Brandon

I know Peterson makes a system pipe. Does anyone else? How can you tell a sytem pipe from a non? Are all Petersons system pipes? I own a couple of Petersons and am curious.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

gtechva said:


> Brandon
> 
> I know Peterson makes a system pipe. Does anyone else? How can you tell a sytem pipe from a non? Are all Petersons system pipes? I own a couple of Petersons and am curious.


There are a couple that I know of, including Kaywoodie, Wellington, Radice, and Castello.

No, not all Peterson's are system pipes. I own 2 system Petersons and 2 non-system Petersons. You can tell if it is a system pipe by removing the stem and looking for the reservoir, or checking out the model specs on the Peterson website.


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## Mr. Motoyoshi (Mar 19, 2014)

Brandon, we have the almost same exact estate cleaning method, except I don't have a drill and a buffing set up. I use Halcyon II or Paragon wax.

I actually remember those pipes being on the bay but didn't pull the trigger. Happy to hear they are in a good home and were brought back to life so beautifully.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

Mr. Motoyoshi said:


> Brandon, we have the almost same exact estate cleaning method, except I don't have a drill and a buffing set up. I use Halcyon II or Paragon wax.
> 
> I actually remember those pipes being on the bay but didn't pull the trigger. Happy to hear they are in a good home and were brought back to life so beautifully.


I use Halcyon for any pipe with heavy rustication. It's a great product!


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## NeverBend (Aug 29, 2009)

CaptainEnormous said:


> ...You might think about grabbing a couple of buffing wheels for red & white compound (~$20 from any hardware store). Those super high-grit abrasive pads get expensive. And are a lot of work. You could sand with 400 or so, then use red compound followed by white followed by wax. It'll be faster and you'll get results you just can't with any grit of sandpaper. And you'll be building up a new skill--namely, buffing stems, which is good, because if you are anything like me this restoration slope is only going to end with making your own pipes!...


Hi Captain Enormous,

I liked your Smooth Billiard and Brindle Canadian, nice work. Where do you blast your bowls?

To be more clear on what you wrote, I assume that you refer to; Red = Rouge, White = Snow (blizzard). There's also tripoli that's used with pipes in conjunction with buffing wheels.

Buffing oxidized vulcanite is just polishing and it will reappear (about) as soon as saliva hits it. Branzig's stems are (badly) oxidized injection molded vulcanite stems that are more delicate than their rod cousins such as Dunhill uses. You need to work out (in stages) the oxidation as Branzig does.

Branzig, 
Thanks for taking the time to do such a detailed post. Your finished work, especially the Peterson stem look excellent.

A couple of notes to anyone to anyone that wishes to restore pipes. Applies to sanding, buffing wheel, etc.:
Use great care and if in doubt, do *NOT *buff pipes that you believe may have intrinsic (collector) value. Far better to leave that little *Dunhill *_patent _*Prince *dull and dirty than to buff off nomenclature, smooth the rim or tenon-mortise join. You can't replace what you take off.

Use low adhesion tapes to protect wood (or any materials that you wish to protect) from sanding, buffing, etc. while you work.

Regards,

Pete


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## NeverBend (Aug 29, 2009)

CaptainEnormous said:


> ...You might think about grabbing a couple of buffing wheels for red & white compound (~$20 from any hardware store). Those super high-grit abrasive pads get expensive. And are a lot of work. You could sand with 400 or so, then use red compound followed by white followed by wax. It'll be faster and you'll get results you just can't with any grit of sandpaper. And you'll be building up a new skill--namely, buffing stems, which is good, because if you are anything like me this restoration slope is only going to end with making your own pipes!...


Hi Captain Enormous,

I liked your *Smooth Billiard* and *Brindle Canadian*, nice work. Where do you blast your bowls?

To be more clear on what you wrote, I assume that you refer to; Red = *Rouge*, White = *Blizzard*. There's also *Tripoli* that's used with pipes in conjunction with buffing wheels.

Buffing oxidized vulcanite is just polishing and it will reappear (about) as soon as saliva hits it. Branzig's stems are (badly) oxidized _injection_ molded vulcanite stems that are more delicate than their rod cousins such as Dunhill uses. You need to work out (in stages) the oxidation as Branzig does.

*Branzig*, 
Thanks for taking the time to do such a detailed post. Your finished work, especially the Peterson stem look excellent.

A couple of notes to anyone to anyone that wishes to restore pipes. Applies to sanding, buffing wheel, etc.:
Use great care and if in doubt, do *NOT *buff pipes that you believe may have intrinsic (collector) value. Far better to leave that little *Dunhill *_patent _*Prince *dull and dirty than to buff off nomenclature, smooth the rim or tenon-mortise join. You can't replace what you take off.

Use low adhesion tapes to protect wood (or any materials that you wish to protect) from sanding, buffing, etc. while you work.

Regards,

Pete


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## NeverBend (Aug 29, 2009)

Branzig said:


> I use Halcyon for any pipe with heavy rustication. It's a great product!


Apologies for re-posting before when I attempted to edit.

I don't know Halcyon or Paragon wax (amnesia . Their description sounds like they'll give a longer lasting polish.

There was a product called, "Briar Pipe Wipe" many years ago. Spray on an (non-disposable) absorbent cloth (like Handi-Wipes) and allow to dry. Then rub your bowl to a nice (temporary shine).

You can use furniture wax.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

NeverBend said:


> Apologies for re-posting before when I attempted to edit.
> 
> I don't know Halcyon or Paragon wax (amnesia . Their description sounds like they'll give a longer lasting polish.
> 
> ...


I only use Halcyon for super rusticated pipes, it leaves close to no residue behind. Otherwise I am a carnauba man. I hear that the Paragon is great too though!

You can find them here: Cleaning & Maintanance Supplies

The Pipe Wipe is gone unfortunately. That was some great stuff, I hear you can still score it on ebay from time to time though.


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## NeverBend (Aug 29, 2009)

Branzig said:


> The Pipe Wipe is gone unfortunately. That was some great stuff, I hear you can still score it on ebay from time to time though.


Hi Branzig,

Followed your link to Halcyon and Paragon. Sounds like they're quality waxes.

I mentioned furniture wax because that's what Briar Pipe Wipe was (without the lemon scent). Spray Pledge onto a porous cloth, let it dry and you have a polishing cloth. Not as good as Halycon or Paragon I'm sure, but nice shine for a bit.


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

NeverBend said:


> Hi Branzig,
> 
> Followed your link to Halcyon and Paragon. Sounds like they're quality waxes.
> 
> I mentioned furniture wax because that's what Briar Pipe Wipe was (without the lemon scent). Spray Pledge onto a porous cloth, let it dry and you have a polishing cloth. Not as good as Halycon or Paragon I'm sure, but nice shine for a bit.


Oh, speaking of Pledge. I once got an estate pipe which a previous owner used to polish up with Lemon Pledge, possibly on a regular basis over many years. Fixed up the pipe and stem, got it spiffy, then loaded the bowl and as soon as it warmed up, LEMON overwhelmed my senses. It had so permeated the briar there was no way to exorcise it. I bit the bullet and smoked a number of bowls in it, thinking it might bake out, but it seemed to get worse. I decided I'd try to strip the finish, sand it down and refinish it, but somehow broke the (rather brittle) shank in the process, which spared me a lot of likely wasted effort.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

cpmcdill said:


> as it warmed up, LEMON overwhelmed my senses. It had so permeated the briar there was no way to exorcise it.


I have heard this exact same thing happen before using Pledge. The mere thought of it is enough to scare me away from ever attempting it.

I would use EV Olive Oil before Pledge for a spit shine.


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## NeverBend (Aug 29, 2009)

cpmcdill said:


> Oh, speaking of Pledge. I once got an estate pipe which a previous owner used to polish up with Lemon Pledge, possibly on a regular basis over many years.


I'm sorry that you had this problem but knowing this (and I assume that it smelled of lemon) - why did you buy it?


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

NeverBend said:


> I'm sorry that you had this problem but knowing this (and I assume that it smelled of lemon) - why did you buy it?


It was one of a lot of six purchased on ebay. Even as I was refurbishing it, the lemon odor was not evident. It had probably penetrated deep into the wood over time and was subsequently covered with other finishes, such as carnauba, by a later owner. The lemon oil didn't really come blasting out until the pipe had heated up from smoking. It was not a pipe I was planning on keeping. I was going to refurbish it, test it out a while, then clean it up again for resale. Now it's consigned to my parts/repair box. as it's got a good re-usable stem.


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## NeverBend (Aug 29, 2009)

Branzig said:


> I have heard this exact same thing happen before using Pledge. The mere thought of it is enough to scare me away from ever attempting it.
> 
> I would use EV Olive Oil before Pledge for a spit shine.


Hi Branzig,

Perhaps some nitwits are spraying *Pledge *directly onto (or into!?) their pipes? Perhaps that's what happened to *Cpmcdill's *pipe but that's not what I said to do. If I wasn't clear, I'm speaking about applying a light wax shine to the outside of a pipe (never any interior area) with a _handi-wipe_ that's been impregnated (and properly allowed to dry).

When sprayed on a handi-wipe and allowed to dry, the propellants dissipate, and you're left with a *carnauba *based polishing wax and a little oil and a trace lemon scent.

*Mike Rochman* was an avid pipe collector and president of *Ruth Industries*, the company that made *Briar Pipe Wipe*. When the product ran out (it didn't sell well) he explained that BPW was essentially - Pledge, without the lemon scent. He then took out a treated cloth that had a faint lemon scent and he 'polished' some *Dunhills *with it.

Consider that pipes have (chemical) flavors that are heated *inside* their bowls, hundreds of times and the flavor can still be removed. A trace of lemon scent on the outside of the bowl has no effect. To put it in perspective, one of the brands of pipes that you restored (in this thread) had (has) a technique that at least two other high profile companies used where they would mix motor oil with tripoli for their smoothing buff. Those other companies insisted that 10-30 was the only grade to use because it had the proper viscosity. That was before the bowl was finished and I assume that you've never tasted motor oil? In other words, you can't taste what's on the outside of your bowl - and if you do - it's on the inside too.

Stains, varnishes, etc., there are some pretty strong things applied to the pipes that you (and we) smoke but there's no taste nor smell but you might think so now that you're aware of it (hope that I haven't gotten you started smelling your pipes!).

You're a talented restorer so I'm surprised that some 'stories' would keep you from considering new ideas.

Saliva, as you've said/proven, is a good light solvent on pipes. Good for schmutz (sp?). Should I now be worried that I'll always smell someone's bad breath when I smoke a pipe that's been saliva rubbed?:wink:

Olive oil, on the other hand, should be avoided. When applying anything in liquid form to the outside of the pipe, consider the evaporation rate. If a pipe has lost it's shine and is essentially a smooth piece of wood with stain (or not) on it, oils, olive or other (and I include the ubiquitous 'nose/face' oil mythology), gather dust and debris and can/will clog pores in the wood. Does olive oil evaporate when you cook it? Slowly and more slowly if trying to 'bake' it out of a pipe. Use olive oil and you'll have to use spit to get off the schmutz!

*Cpmcdill*
My apologies, I wasn't finished with my post to you.
From your description I have a feeling that the old owner (or his heirs) tried to clean and disinfect the pipe and used something like Pine-Sol on a pipe cleaner. Once that gets into the mortise gap you're not going to get it out (spittle and heat mixes with it). Again, sorry about the pipe.

(RIP Mike, and sympathies to Janice, Ruthie and Missy)

Regards,

Pete


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## NeverBend (Aug 29, 2009)

Hi Cpmcdill,

I found myself typing (I thought to you) and then realized I had already sent the post. I put the completion of the post into my response to Branzig, but I'll repeat it here.

My apologies, I wasn't finished with my post to you.
From your description I have a feeling that the old owner (or his heirs) tried to clean and disinfect the pipe and used something like Pine-Sol on a pipe cleaner. Once that gets into the mortise gap you're not going to get it out (spittle and heat mixes with it). Again, sorry about the pipe. 

EBay makes it hard to smell the pipes. To have that potent a taste/odor makes it probable that something (like Pine-Sol) was used inside the bowl.

Short story:
My friend's wife loved when he smoked his pipe (and not cigarettes) so when he said that he was going back to the pipes, his loving wife put them in the dishwasher.

Afterwards she said that since they fit so well that the short, upright tines she thought that they were made for pipes.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

@NeverBend

Very insightful and informative post! Pledge may have to be something that I look into at some point! I don't use olive oil, or any other kind of oil (stems excluded of course). I have been known more than once to give my pipes a spit bath :lol:


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## NeverBend (Aug 29, 2009)

Branzig said:


> @NeverBend
> 
> Very insightful and informative post! Pledge may have to be something that I look into at some point! I don't use olive oil, or any other kind of oil (stems excluded of course). I have been known more than once to give my pipes a spit bath :lol:


Hi Branzig,

I found that the wax imbued handi-wipe was great for covering spit on pipes:biggrin:


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## Flyinglow (Apr 14, 2014)

I want to thank all who have contributed on this thread. I was given a pipe from a friend to try things out and have used this info to restore it back so I will feel better about putting it into my mouth.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

Flyinglow said:


> I want to thank all who have contributed on this thread. I was given a pipe from a friend to try things out and have used this info to restore it back so I will feel better about putting it into my mouth.


Awesome man! :thumb:

That's why I put the thread together! To help people like yourself out!

Post some pics of it in the general pipe forum so we can all check it out!


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## jsnake (Oct 6, 2009)

Just got three new to me pipes and needed this info. Appreciate everyone's input. Really helps.

Can you just use Denicare on your stems?

Where can you get those super fine sandpapers?


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

jsnake said:


> Just got three new to me pipes and needed this info. Appreciate everyone's input. Really helps.
> 
> Can you just use Denicare on your stems?
> 
> Where can you get those super fine sandpapers?


Don't know about Denicare, but I have used *Barkeeper's Friend* and a wet cloth to some success!

The micromesh can be found online or at anywhere that sells refinishing goods. I got mine at Woodcraft.


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## jsnake (Oct 6, 2009)

The two on the right. A La Raganella Diamonte and a Morel. Received all this in part of a bombing war on a different part of the interwebs. They are in really good condition so this should be easy. Already started on the stems with a magic eraser which worked wonders. Now the third pipe is a Savinelli and has some oxidization. If a stem isn't black will the same steps help restore it to the original color?


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

Branzig said:


> Now for the sad part of the day, and a fair warning to all people buying estate pipes. While buffing the Grabow stem, I failed to realize that there was a hairline crack near the tenon...well when that buffing wheel hit that crack: BLAMO!
> 
> 
> The tenon shot off at about a million MPH. This is lame, but it comes with the territory. Don't get discouraged and bummed that things don't always go right. Because when you are dealing with antiques and old things, stuff can and WILL go wrong. Luckily there are a lot of great suppliers out there that sell replacement stems. And being a Grabow stem, it shouldn't be too difficult finding a replacement at all.
> ...


Thanks for posting all of this information about restoring pipes! Where is a good place to buy the cloth buffing wheels?


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

Where do you get that super-fine sandpaper?


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## 04EDGE40 (Jan 7, 2014)

haebar said:


> Where do you get that super-fine sandpaper?


Here's where I got mine...

Micro Finishing Cloth Abrasive Pads | Shop Hobby Lobby

They're great. Easy to hold on to and plenty of different grits up to 12,000.


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## SmokinSpider (May 12, 2010)

haebar said:


> Where do you get that super-fine sandpaper?


Automotive stores (in the paint section) or automotive refinishing stores will have very fine sandpaper also.


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## Tobias Lutz (Feb 18, 2013)

04EDGE40 said:


> Here's where I got mine...
> 
> Micro Finishing Cloth Abrasive Pads | Shop Hobby Lobby
> 
> They're great. Easy to hold on to and plenty of different grits up to 12,000.


My wife will love a trip to the store to get these :lol: I think she could spend half a day in the yarn section alone.


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

Thanks Collin and Jayme.


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## Bizumpy (Nov 14, 2014)

Branzig said:


> lolz


erm...


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