# $12 Vinotemp



## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

I wanted a wineadore because I keep my house warm but I was too cheap/broke to pay for one so I figured out how to get one without paying for it. I was looking at a 12-16 bottle unit to start a small collection. The $150-$200 was too much. I went into a thrift store and spotted a vinotemp vt-12 in perfect condition, other than it did not work. The Lady wanted $20 for it but I talked her down to $10 and walked out a happy man. Took it home and fixed it with a $2 capacitor.

So if any of you puffers out there are cheap like me you might be able to find a smokin deal on Craigslist or a thrift shop or whatever and with a small amout of work bring it back to working condition. As far as the vinotemp vt-12 & vt-16 go they seem to always have the same thing break and the repair is quick, simple, and cheap.


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## exprime8 (May 16, 2011)

Nice Pick Up! So are you going to put shelves on it?


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

exprime8 said:


> Nice Pick Up! So are you going to put shelves on it?


I think I am going to go the self made custom drawer route. still working it out in my head. The unit I have has space for 3 big drawers and I think that is the best way to go for me.


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## jordanwimb (Aug 5, 2011)

Wow, what a pick up. Gotta start looking at my Craigslist and local shops more often.


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## ShortFuse (Jun 6, 2011)

Awesome score! RG coming your way for spotting a bargain and getting your hands dirty to fix it!


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

ShortFuse said:


> Awesome score! RG coming your way for spotting a bargain and getting your hands dirty to fix it!


+1...great find...and RG bump for the deal! Great job!!!


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## Rock31 (Sep 30, 2010)

I picked mine up at a garage sale for $5, I don't plug it in so I don't even know if it works 

nice pickup!


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

If anyone wants help fixing one of these let me know and I will help if I can. Mine was a cakewalk for anyone with basic soldering skills.


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## Cigary (Oct 19, 2007)

Bravo for thinking outside the box...just because it doesn't work doesn't mean it's beyond fixing. People now days won't even fix anything as we live in a disposable society. If it stops working...throw it away. Our parents and grandparents would turn over in their resting places if they knew what we were doing.


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

Cigary said:


> People now days won't even fix anything as we live in a disposable society. If it stops working...throw it away. Our parents and grandparents would turn over in their resting places if they knew what we were doing.


I thank my grandfather and the many "old timer" friends I have had for this valuable lesson. I think it is nuts when I hear someone spent $90 to have an electrician replace a $2 outlet or toss a chair because it needed a bit of glue. I wish more people had the initiative to try to be a jack of all trades. You will never be the best at any of them but you can get pretty good at a lot of them, and save a ton of cash in the process. I have been accused of being a know-it-all a few times but I just tell those people that i'm not, but i'm working on it.


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## yaqui (Apr 11, 2011)

Well done John.
I am trying to figure which route to go for myself. I was thinking about building a nice humidor, but we keep our house pretty warm. You have given me a few ideas.


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

yaqui said:


> Well done John.
> I am trying to figure which route to go for myself. I was thinking about building a nice humidor, but we keep our house pretty warm. You have given me a few ideas.


It was the only viable option I could see. The lowest we set the thermostat is 80 and open the house at night and it will get 60 or so and I don't think those swings are good for the leaf. I just could not see using icepacks or something in a coolidore for three months of the year. too much of a headache. After seeing some of the awesome wineadores on puff I was sold.


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## salmonfly (Nov 11, 2009)

Nicely done John, now that´s a good find Bro!! WTG :banana::banana:


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## jp13 (Jul 12, 2011)

Thanks for inspiration John!

I've had an old 8 bottle Emerson sitting in the garage for 2+ years that had decided not to cool anymore... Had basically forgotten about it completely... After seeing this thread, decided to pull it out and yank it apart...
So, all the capacitors looked good and as I sit there scratching my head a flicked the fans on the heatsink as I tend to fiddle with stuff... And, lo and behold they're practically frozen up. Looks like two case cooling fans for about 5-8 bucks just might her back in bidness!

Thanks!

This place just keeps on giving


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

I fix computers and have seen a load of junk fans freeze up. Replace with a decent fan and you should not have the problem come back. My favorite fan is the vantec stealth, a bit pricey but worth it. The Antecs are good, cooler master is good but usually too loud. Check out newegg I've had good luck with them.

Before you replace the fans plug it in and make sure the heat-sink gets hot. If it doesn't then the fans stopping burnt out the cooling unit and it will have to be replaced. I think they usually go for a whopping ten bucks or something.


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## jp13 (Jul 12, 2011)

Thanks for the heads up!

Plugged her in with the heat/cool sink out and with a few seconds the interior one gets cold and the exterior heats up... 

Fingers crossed.


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

In that case you are golden. replace the fans and walk away a happy man.

By the way the quick breakdown of how these work is the cooling unit is a solid state device that can transfer heat from one side to the other to the tune of about 30 deg usually. but in order to pull heat from the inside (get cold) it has to eject the heat from the other side. the heat-sink spreads the heat and the fan blows the hot air off the surface of the heat-sink. therefore if it is getting hot then the cooler is working. It does need a fan though because otherwise a build up of heat will burn out the cooling unit.


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## Zogg (Aug 31, 2010)

Johnpaul said:


> I fix computers and have seen a load of junk fans freeze up. Replace with a decent fan and you should not have the problem come back. My favorite fan is the vantec stealth, a bit pricey but worth it. The Antecs are good, cooler master is good but usually too loud. Check out newegg I've had good luck with them.
> 
> Before you replace the fans plug it in and make sure the heat-sink gets hot. If it doesn't then the fans stopping burnt out the cooling unit and it will have to be replaced. I think they usually go for a whopping ten bucks or something.


Hell yeah! I think my "build/fix it instead of buying new" habit came from building my first computer. I saved about $3,000 building my recent gaming computer vs buying one pre-made and it only took about a day to put all the parts together. Plus if anything breaks i just remove and send in the bad part instead of paying out the ass to send the whole comp to a retailer


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## Packerjh (Nov 29, 2009)

I just purchased a Vinotemp VT-12TEDS and a VT-34TS at a local auction...They weren't plugged in, and were "as-is" but I got them pretty cheap.

Anyway, when I got them home and plugged them in, I think I know why they were at the auction.

The VT-12TEDS display works, fan blows, and light works, but I have it set at 60 (for test purposes) and it hasn't gotten below 72...So, I'm thinking I have the capacitor issue that you mentioned. I am a total rookie at this stuff but I can run a soldering iron, so whatever help/direction you can offer is appreciated! What capacitor am I checking, how do I check it, and where do I get a replacement???? Circuit board photos would help a bunch, I'm guessing!

The VT-34TS is a compressor unit that isn't cooling either. The display, light, etc seems to work, but I don't hear the compressor coming on. I hear a "click" coming from the back, and the compressor is warm to the touch, but not vibrating like it does on another vinodor that I have. Any suggestions on where to start will be greatly appreciated as well!

Jason


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

On the VT-12TEDS if you take the back off you will see a circuit board near the top. The capacitor that normally fails is a near the top left. What you are looking for is a bulged (domed) top and it might leak. If it is then you can find its replacement at a rat-shack or off the internet (buy one with a higher voltage though.) When that capacitor goes out you generally have blinking red and green lights on that circuit board as well.

If that is not it then take a multimeter and check the voltage going to the cooling unit. Off the top of my head I think that is suppose to be 9-12 volts. If you have the correct voltage going to the cooling unit but it doesn't get hot/cold then the cooling unit is bad.

Hope that helps on that one.

As for a the compressor based unit I don't know, and I have a crappy understanding of A/C systems. I would suggest Google and fixya to see if their is a common failing on that one. I do know that most people don't use compressor based units for a humidor.


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## Packerjh (Nov 29, 2009)

Johnpaul said:


> On the VT-12TEDS if you take the back off you will see a circuit board near the top. The capacitor that normally fails is a near the top left. What you are looking for is a bulged (domed) top and it might leak. If it is then you can find its replacement at a rat-shack or off the internet (buy one with a higher voltage though.) When that capacitor goes out you generally have blinking red and green lights on that circuit board as well.
> 
> If that is not it then take a multimeter and check the voltage going to the cooling unit. Off the top of my head I think that is suppose to be 9-12 volts. If you have the correct voltage going to the cooling unit but it doesn't get hot/cold then the cooling unit is bad.
> 
> ...


*I know that they cause humidity issues due to condensation. I've been using a similar unit for one humidor for a while now, mainly for insulated storage...I don't run the compressor. This unit just looks nicer, and it'd be nice to have the compressor working just in case I wanted to use it for beverages when I finally replace it with a larger thermoelectric unit.*

*Jason*


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## falconman515 (Jul 10, 2011)

Nice info John

Glad to know your local too.... If I have issues your my go to person that's for sure.

Good looking out giving some info to everywhere here.... I'm sure this thread will come in handy for repair questions.

Great pick up on the Vino too!

I'll talk with you soon bro.


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## Packerjh (Nov 29, 2009)

So I took a look at the VT-12TETS circuit board, and the capacitor on the top left appears to be bulged at the top (the end facing me). I see that there are stress marks scored in the aluminum, and it has bulged and opened a bit on one of the score marks.

So, to replace it do I have to remove the circuit board and use a soldering iron to melt solder and remove the cap?


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## TonyBrooklyn (Jan 28, 2010)

Johnpaul said:


> I thank my grandfather and the many "old timer" friends I have had for this valuable lesson. I think it is nuts when I hear someone spent $90 to have an electrician replace a $2 outlet or toss a chair because it needed a bit of glue. I wish more people had the initiative to try to be a jack of all trades. You will never be the best at any of them but you can get pretty good at a lot of them, and save a ton of cash in the process. I have been accused of being a know-it-all a few times but I just tell those people that i'm not, but i'm working on it.


Very nice find and very nice of you to give back to the forum!
Remember that old saying!
"Jack of all trades master at many"!
Peace my brother!


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

Packerjh said:


> So, to replace it do I have to remove the circuit board and use a soldering iron to melt solder and remove the cap?


Yep. I'm assuming that the one you found bad was a 16V 1000uF capacitor. When I changed mine I just removed the four screws to get to the back side and changed it in place. If you have never desoldered before a little bit of wick and Google is your friend. As far as soldering jobs go that particular board is very large and easy to deal with.

The replacement has to be 1000uF (assuming that is the one that went bad) but make the replacement 23V or higher; that is why it breaks in the first place.

Good Luck.


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## Packerjh (Nov 29, 2009)

So, do you think something like this might work???

1000µF 35V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor - RadioShack.com

it is 35v


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

Packerjh said:


> So, do you think something like this might work???
> 
> 1000µF 35V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor - RadioShack.com
> 
> it is 35v


Yup. That would be the one. They also sell desoldering braids, bulbs, and vacuums if you need it.


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## fanman1 (Sep 6, 2010)

so i recently found a vt21 on craigslist for 30 bucks. it says it is not in working condition, i am fine with soldering and all that. my question is whay should i look for when i go to look at it tomorow to see if i can fix it. i will definatly check the curcit board for any blown capacitors but my question is is there somthing that will clearly tell me that it is a good purchase or not. even if i cant make it work it is still a mighty fine cigar cabinet for 30 bucks but i would prefer that it cooled.


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## CaptainBlenderman (Sep 3, 2010)

This is just awesome. Points to you for thinking DIY. Great pickup...I'll have to keep trolling Craigslist for one. The coolidor is working wonderfully, but as this very warm summer proved, the temp flux can be a little much in this house. The wineador is my planned solution, I just haven't gotten around to it. Then again, I keep thinking of cleaning out that old refrigerator I have in the basement and using that...put it to good use...I just need to get the humidity managed down there...


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

fanman1 said:


> so i recently found a vt21 on craigslist for 30 bucks. it says it is not in working condition, i am fine with soldering and all that. my question is whay should i look for when i go to look at it tomorow to see if i can fix it. i will definatly check the curcit board for any blown capacitors but my question is is there somthing that will clearly tell me that it is a good purchase or not. even if i cant make it work it is still a mighty fine cigar cabinet for 30 bucks but i would prefer that it cooled.


I don't think you are going to diagnose it on the spot. You said you were interested in it even if it was for a cabinet only. Remember the asking price is just that, what they are asking for it, it does not mean that is the lowest they will take. My advice on these types of purchases is spend only what you are willing to loose. I have gotten burned a few times but I was never really that upset because I knew I was taking a risk. I've had many more occasions that I have come out waaaaay ahead, like my $12 wine fridge.

So if you decide to pull the trigger check out earlier in this thread and try that stuff (fans, caps, voltage on cooler) If that doesn't get you sorted let me know and we will figure out something at that point. Good Luck


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

CaptainBlenderman said:


> This is just awesome. Points to you for thinking DIY. Great pickup...I'll have to keep trolling Craigslist for one. The coolidor is working wonderfully, but as this very warm summer proved, the temp flux can be a little much in this house. The wineador is my planned solution, I just haven't gotten around to it. Then again, I keep thinking of cleaning out that old refrigerator I have in the basement and using that...put it to good use...I just need to get the humidity managed down there...


Thanks. I have seen guys on these boards use old refrigerators like an oversized coolidor and that seems to be a great option from some. I even saw someone using an external temp controller to be able to use a fridge compressor to cool at a higher temp than it would normally would work at (I thought that was very clever) although running a compressor seems to cause problem that don't exist with a thermoelectric.

Now having said all that. When I look at these wine fridges decked out with the trays and drawers it is hard not to want that. Its like sexy lingerie with p**n hidden inside.


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## CaptainBlenderman (Sep 3, 2010)

Johnpaul said:


> When I look at these wine fridges decked out with the trays and drawers it is hard not to want that. Its like sexy lingerie with p**n hidden inside.


Hah! Yer not kiddin'...

I figure the basement will provide perfect temp control so the only thing I really need to do is get the humidity to a manageable level (I've been planning to pick up a good dehumidifier for down there anyway). Once that is accomplished, I may find myself converting the thing to a very sizable humidor. I'll be picking up some Spanish cedar at that point...or investing in some well-made shelves if I can't figure out how to do it myself... Ah, you're re-piquing my interest in that project again...


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## fanman1 (Sep 6, 2010)

Johnpaul said:


> I don't think you are going to diagnose it on the spot. You said you were interested in it even if it was for a cabinet only. Remember the asking price is just that, what they are asking for it, it does not mean that is the lowest they will take. My advice on these types of purchases is spend only what you are willing to loose. I have gotten burned a few times but I was never really that upset because I knew I was taking a risk. I've had many more occasions that I have come out waaaaay ahead, like my $12 wine fridge.
> 
> So if you decide to pull the trigger check out earlier in this thread and try that stuff (fans, caps, voltage on cooler) If that doesn't get you sorted let me know and we will figure out something at that point. Good Luck


thanks bro!


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## fanman1 (Sep 6, 2010)

so i wnet to go check that wine coolr out today and ended up buying it for 20 bucks. when i got home i pluged it in and the bottom chamber worked fine so it was a problem with the top. i checked the curcuit bard and what do you know, the same 1000uF capacitor was looking a little fat. so i just went to radio shack and picked up two capacitors (one for when the bottom one goes out) and a 30 watt soldering iron that came with some extra crap(mine is like 100 watt) some desoldering wick and a desoldering suction tool. i come home and plug the iron in to get it heating up check you tube for instructions on how to desolder and it turned out that i didnt need the desoldering wick and the suction tool so i chose the suction tool (ill take the wick back later). i then got to work heating up the solder and once it pooled up i pressed the button on the suction gun and it sucked it right up. it took me a couple of trys to get the suction thing to work but i figured it out. i then stuck the capacitor into the holes from the one i just took out put a drop of solder on each, trimmed the leads. reinstalled all of the wires, screwed the circuit board back on, plugged it in and bam! it works. my only problem now is that the temp readouts dont really work. all of the nombers dont appear as they should so i have no idea what it is set at so ill just have to use some thermometers (unless you have an easy fix for that too). so my total spent on the fridge supplies and tools to fix the fridge is about 50 bucks which is not bad for a 21 bottle vinotemp. im sorry this post is so long but i am super excited! and thanks so much for this awsome thread!


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## falconman515 (Jul 10, 2011)

fanman1 said:


> so i wnet to go check that wine coolr out today and ended up buying it for 20 bucks. when i got home i pluged it in and the bottom chamber worked fine so it was a problem with the top. i checked the curcuit bard and what do you know, the same 1000uF capacitor was looking a little fat. so i just went to radio shack and picked up two capacitors (one for when the bottom one goes out) and a 30 watt soldering iron that came with some extra crap(mine is like 100 watt) some desoldering wick and a desoldering suction tool. i come home and plug the iron in to get it heating up check you tube for instructions on how to desolder and it turned out that i didnt need the desoldering wick and the suction tool so i chose the suction tool (ill take the wick back later). i then got to work heating up the solder and once it pooled up i pressed the button on the suction gun and it sucked it right up. it took me a couple of trys to get the suction thing to work but i figured it out. i then stuck the capacitor into the holes from the one i just took out put a drop of solder on each, trimmed the leads. reinstalled all of the wires, screwed the circuit board back on, plugged it in and bam! it works. my only problem now is that the temp readouts dont really work. all of the numbers don't appear as they should so i have no idea what it is set at so ill just have to use some thermometers (unless you have an easy fix for that too). so my total spent on the fridge supplies and tools to fix the fridge is about 50 bucks which is not bad for a 21 bottle vinotemp. im sorry this post is so long but i am super excited! and thanks so much for this awesome thread!


Thats Friggin AWESOME .... Kudos to John for posting all of this and already helping out a BOTL with their build and saving money (cause we all need more money for sticks).

Just a thought on the Temp readout... if you cant get it working check to see what the higest temp is on this unit (probably 66... most are). and press the button a bunch of times so you know its set up to 66.

At 66 degrees you should get a about a perfect 68 inside the unit from what I have read and most own experience.

When you first plug it in it start at the lowest temp, which I think in most units is like 54 or 56 .... so from there press it the amount you know it takes to get to 66 and press a couple more times to be on the safe side and then pluss one degree down as you start reading your internal temp meter (just get like a caliber III or something else for the inside to read your temp and Rh).

Hope that helps just in case you cant get the display working.


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## Zogg (Aug 31, 2010)

i have no experience with fixing up something like this. How hard would it be to go at this "newb" style?


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

fanman1 said:


> thanks so much for this awsome thread!


Your welcome. Sorry about the confusion on the desoldering tools. I was meaning for that to be three different options sorted by cost. I have used vacuums and they work the best. I mentioned the wick because I am a cheap bastard that has never been willing to pay $20 for one (despite paying $70 for my iron.) Oh and be very carefull with that 100 watt iron, I thought you said you already had one. For anyone else reading this stick with a 30-45 watt iron, as anything higher it is too easy to overheat the board and components. I had thought about putting some notes about soldering and what not, but thought that since this is a puffers forum and their is so much good soldering info around the net I should let it rest.

Anyway I digress.

I'm very happy that I am able to help some people. I would very much like to continue this as long as it is helping others.


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

Zogg said:


> How hard would it be to go at this "newb" style?


I think that everyone who has posted here so far is a "newb" including myself (well maybe a little less so.) One of the nice thing about thermoelectric coolers is that they are fairly simple devices and a good place to get your feet wet. If you find one for a few bucks and it doesn't work out how much have you lost? Their is tons of good info around the net on beginning electronics and I have my hand out as well.


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## fanman1 (Sep 6, 2010)

falconman515 said:


> Thats Friggin AWESOME .... Kudos to John for posting all of this and already helping out a BOTL with their build and saving money (cause we all need more money for sticks).
> 
> Just a thought on the Temp readout... if you cant get it working check to see what the higest temp is on this unit (probably 66... most are). and press the button a bunch of times so you know its set up to 66.
> 
> ...


thats what i have done, i have some thermos in there right now. i set the top smaller part of the cooler to the lowest temp and the bottom to the highest, its been going for about an hour and the top compartment is at 50 and the bottom is at 65 amd its 81 in my house right now so it works! ill probably end up using both the top and bottom for cigars but if i ever grow fond of wine (i really dont lik wine) ill use the top for wine and bottom for cigars.


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

falconman515 said:


> press the button a bunch of times so you know its set up to 66.


Thanks Chris, I was also going to say that.

Also I have a sneaking feeling that they might have changed the wiring to bypass the cap issue (don't ask) and if you want to try to get the temp readout working you should unplug and replug all the connectors on the Back circuit board, inside the dome light, and on the controller. Just make sure you unplug it from the wall before you do that. If one of the wires is not plugged in check out the manufactures web site. They have a (kind of) repair manual that shows pics of a bunch of the inside. It is kind of pointless though as Chris' solution should work without all the fuss.


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

I thought I would drop a little info about fans for anyone who is interested, either for replacement or for retrofitting into a project. This information comes from fifteen years of working on computers so you can take it for what you think that's worth. I also have better than average hearing and a intolerance for noise so I have a bias.

Fan come in three main types.

Sleeve - Found mostly in low end fans. Most people don't know that these are only designed to be run in the vertical position. They don't last very long and die much sooner if not vertical. Their advantages are that they are normally inexpensive and extremely quiet.

Ball bearing - Not very common anymore but they have a decent life span. They are usually quieter than double ball bearing fans.

Double ball bearing - This is what most decent and better fans are. They generally have a very long life span. The lower end ones can be very noisy and vibrate a lot. The better ones can silent and smooth as silk.

Built in lights - If you have a fan with these and you don't want them you can generally just clip the leads on the lights. Don't knock a fan just because of some stupid marketing ploy.

Speed control - My experience is that most fans run more than they need to and annoy the hell out of people like me in the process. There are three easy ways to take care of this. Buy a lower rpm and/or higher quality fan, run the fan at a lower voltage, or buy a fan with a speed controller. The lower the rpm for a given fan the less air it moves but that most likely is all you need. You must evaluate on a case by case basis.

There are lots of good fans and if you check out places like newegg the reviews should give you an indication of the quality of a fan. My personal favorite is the Vantec Stealth fans (the stealth line are special silent fans) I also use Antec when in a pinch and have no problem recommending them when you want a two or three speed controler.


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## Packerjh (Nov 29, 2009)

Well I picked up a capacitor at RS and did the switch today. Changing the capacitor was easy but I'm not sure it fixed the problem. I powered things up and set the temp for 55 to see it it works. I guess I'll know in a few hours. Both fans are running and the front display is working. 

Oh yeah it is a vt-12TEDS model


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## Packerjh (Nov 29, 2009)

Ok so it ran all night and didn't get cool :-(. Now what???


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

Packerjh said:


> Ok so it ran all night and didn't get cool :-(. Now what???


When you swapped the capacitor did you make sure that you lined up the polarity (+/-) correctly? If so then I assume that when you have it plugged in the heat-sink in the back is not getting warm. Like I mentioned earlier you need to check to see if you have the right voltage going to the cooling unit. This should be done with a multimeter (you can buy them cheap at sears or a rat shack) but in a pinch you can use an automotive test light if you have that. To use the test light method you would take a needle and poke it threw one of the wires going to the cooling unit, then clip the clamp to that. The brightness of the light will tell you how close you are to 12 volts, it should be half brightness or better. If you have the right voltage then your peltier cooler is burnt out. You can change it out by itself (about $10) or replace the whole cooling unit from Vinotemp that comes assembled with the heatlinks for $40.


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## Packerjh (Nov 29, 2009)

Polarity is good. I need to pick up a multimeter and check that. 

Where do I order a new peltier cooler...I don't remember seeing anything but the $40 unit from vinotemp?

Many thanks for your patient guidance on this!


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

Packerjh said:


> Polarity is good. I need to pick up a multimeter and check that.
> 
> Where do I order a new peltier cooler...I don't remember seeing anything but the $40 unit from vinotemp?
> 
> Many thanks for your patient guidance on this!


Peltier coolers are generic devices just like fans or lights and they are not made special for one manufacturer or another. If you pull the peltier unit out of the heat-sinks you will see that it has numbers on it. Google will be your friend at this point to find a source. And also NEVER plug one of these in without the heat-sinks on or you will quickly reduce their life spans.

I found this it should help.


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

Johnpaul said:


> Speed control - My experience is that most fans run more than they need to and annoy the hell out of people like me in the process. There are three easy ways to take care of this. Buy a lower rpm and/or higher quality fan, run the fan at a lower voltage, or buy a fan with a speed controller. The lower the rpm for a given fan the less air it moves but that most likely is all you need. You must evaluate on a case by case basis.
> 
> There are lots of good fans and if you check out places like newegg the reviews should give you an indication of the quality of a fan. My personal favorite is the Vantec Stealth fans (the stealth line are special silent fans) I also use Antec when in a pinch and have no problem recommending them when you want a two or three speed controler.


I was playing around a bit this weekend and decided that I needed to revise some of this info on fans. I tried a Vantec stealth on the Hot side (outside) of my 16 bottle Vinotemp and it wasn't moving quite enough air. It wasn't the fans fault but rather the piss poor heatsink design on that model. You will have to determine based on trial and error if you can get away with a slower fan. I have now outgrown the 16 bottle and picked up a 28 bottle Vinotemp broken from craiglist. The heatsink design on that unit is much better and i'm sure the stealth would work on that with no problems. I took pictures of the repair of this one and hope to get them and how I fixed the new one up tomorrow.


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

I picked up a broken Vinotemp 28 bottle wine fridge off of craigslist this weekend. It is not in the best shape but I didn't pay much for it and it will serve its purpose just fine. For anyone interested in my negotiating skills I will give you the story.

Saw pic of future winadore on craigslist and called seller. He was asking $75 broken or he would have it fixed for $150. I told him that was more than I could offer for that unit and I would be willing to pay $25. He said it was too low. I told him thank you anyway and hung up. I called him again the next day and reminded him of who I was. I asked him if he was willing to take a lesser offer. His attitude completely changed from the day before and he said his bottom line was $40 and he would be willing to deliver it for free. I offered him $45 with the delivery and he delivered it exactly when he said he would the next day. It wasn't a steal for what it is but I'm happy and he's happy and that is why I love craigslist. Here is a pic of the unit.


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

The Repair

I hate to have to do this but YOU CAN KILL YOURSELF BY DOING THIS. If you are worried about it then don't do this. I personally don't have a problem with this because I am very careful about what I am doing. Be very careful when dealing with live high voltage. Sorry about that.

Step 1 - plugged it in and nothing happened
Step 2 - took off back of unit and plugged it in



Step 3 - used my multimeter to test for voltage at the board (circled black and white wires) I had 120 volts ac. I then tested between the white wire and one side of the fuse and I had 120 volts ac (located right above ac input) Tested between white wire and other side of the fuse and I had 0 volts ac. This told me the fuse was blown.

Step 4 - Unplug the cooler

Step 5 - I desoldered the fuse and replaced it with an external automotive style fuse from rat-shack. It was around $6 for the holder and a pack of fuses.

Step 6 - I affixed the broken circuit board holder and my new fuse with hot melt glue.




Step 7 - Once I had the cooler running I noticed the fans were a bit rough. I didn't have the right size replacements on hand so I just cleaned them and reoiled them. To oil them peel back the sticker and pull the plug as shown in the photo. One or two drops of a light oil like triflow or 3-in-one is all you should put in here. This is not a permanent repair of a fan but it can sometimes work for quite a while.



That is how I fixed this one. If you are inclined maybe it will help you. Whatever you do be safe and don't electrocute yourself.


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## Packerjh (Nov 29, 2009)

Thanks for the super updates on this thread!

I finally got my multimeter and have been running through the tests listed on the Vinotemp site, as well as the ones you have mentioned.

I have 120vAC coming into the board
I have 12vDC running to the fans
I have 12vDC running to the peltier unit
I have running fans/light/control panel
I DO NOT have a heat sink that is heating up!

Silly question, because I'm sure there is no problem with it, but what does the fuse look like??? Since I have 12vDC power I'd say my fuse is fine, but for future reference, is it the yellow rectangle near where the 120vAC plugs in?

So it looks like I need to break my heat sink apart and get the specifics for my Peltier unit and order one up!

I have hope for this unit yet!!!!

Jason


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

No not the yellow thing (I forget what exactly that is and I can't tell from the pic) The main fuse is a glass tube with metal on the ends. When that blows it cuts power to everything as a safety device. It is not unusual for a power surge to blow one of them so I have surge protectors all over my house. Back in the day company's made it so you could easily change a fuse. Unfortunately now days they would rather you chuck the whole unit and buy a new one. The only reason they even bother to put a fuse in the inside is for fire protection.

Anyway congrats on getting your cooler diagnosed. Once you get the peltier out you should have no problem finding a replacement on the net. Just make sure you clean off all the old thermal compound and replace it with new stuff. You don't need a big jar like the guy on the video had. You can just use the stuff made for computer heatsinks. Also the wires should be soldered together. Peltier coolers are relativity high current and if you butt connector or just twist them together you will end up with oxidized bad connections over time. If you need any more help you know where i'm at.


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## Packerjh (Nov 29, 2009)

OK, so the Peltier unit came in and I got to work. This is pretty easy to take apart, and put back together...Yeah!!! the unit got hot on one side,and cold on the other...OOPS...the wrong side got hot/cold!

Tore it apart again and reassembled and presto...it's cooling down! I've got it set for 66 and I'll keep it there for a while to let things settle in as a test run!

Thanks for the diligent and patient teaching on this! Now I just need to find one of the feet that somehow is missing!


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

Your very welcome and congratulations! I'm happy to help.


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

After spending some time reading, experimenting, and tweaking, I have an update to my wineadore to share. First off let me start by saying that the following is stuff that I found to work for me. With projects like these there are many ways to accomplish the same task. What I am giving you is a very brief description because I am too lazy to explain everything and why I did it. I don't know how many people would actually want to read it anyway.

*A note about kitty litter:*
Fist of all I have to give credit to TonyBrooklyn and this thread http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/cigar-accessory-discussion/276966-kitty-litter-set-up.html Their is lots of good info on that thread and anyone looking to play with KL should at least skim threw it.

That being said, this is what I have found to be how my Exquisicat unscented kitty litter works (in a very condensed form.) This KL is just Silica gel in a solid bead format. The colored pieced can be ignored as they hold no significance to us. This silica gel does not have any mechanism for humidity regulation but it is extremely useful as a humidity buffer. You charge them to a desired humidity level and they will evaporate from there. It does the same thing that the wood lining inside a humidor does but with distinct advantages. The more KL you put in your cooler the larger the buffer. The larger the buffer the quicker it recovers, the less it has to be recharged, and the more even the regulation over time.

*On with the show:*
So after playing around with numerous setups in my 28 bottle vinotemp I discovered two main things
1.	A fan inside is necessary and oust fans are a joke.
2.	having kitty litter all over the cooler is a PITA and gets dust all over.
So the following is how I made mine work&#8230;

The glowing light is the fan. As you can see the whole humidity system is only taking up the very bottom of the unit. Because condensation can form at the bottom you do not want any cigars there and so this is taking up almost no usable space.

Closer Look. The fan is a three speed Antec running on the medium setting and powered by a generic 10 volt dc wall wart. There is one small kl bag on top of the drain, the two small ones you can see, and the two large ones you can see. When I get back to the pet store I will be buying one more large bag.

A view of the shelf pulled out of the unit. What you are looking at is two pieces of Plexiglas stuck together with carpet tape. A some point I plan on swapping the plastic for wood. This plastic was for an easy proof of concept. The Plexiglas sheet blocks off air transfer everywhere but where the fan is and the gap at the door. In case anyone is wondering why the fan is mounted on top and not underneath it was done that way to make sure a box was not accidently slide over the fan.

The idea behind this design is to make two chambers inside the cooler. The lower chamber makes a large buffer that channels air in the front over a large surface area and pushes the air back to the top of the cooler in the back. This makes for a very even humidly over the cabinet. By having a separate chamber for the beads I eliminate all dust from the rest of the cabinet. To recharge all I have to do is pull a couple bags and spray them with water.


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## Packerjh (Nov 29, 2009)

Looks nice! now I just need to get a bigger thermoelectric unit so I can join you!


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## Boom (Mar 16, 2008)

Well last night my Vino shut itself off and was clicking....looked at the back of it and the red and green lights on the board were flashing.... after seeing this thread I looked over the board and you guessed it the capacitor was bulged... Went to the Shack and got a 35v / 1000 uf de-soilder the old one and replace it with the new one... BAM!!!! it is purring again. Cost was $1.93 with tax.

Many thanks to John for posting this. It was also helpful he is local and was on the phone for tech support.


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## Quietville (Sep 12, 2011)

Boom said:


> Well last night my Vino shut itself off and was clicking....looked at the back of it and the red and green lights on the board were flashing.... after seeing this thread I looked over the board and you guessed it the capacitor was bulged... Went to the Shack and got a 35v / 1000 uf de-soilder the old one and replace it with the new one... BAM!!!! it is purring again. Cost was $1.93 with tax.
> 
> Many thanks to John for posting this. It was also helpful he is local and was on the phone for tech support.


That's why I love this site. So much information on a variety of subjects but all relevant to us.

Awesome thread John! Thanks for helping the bros out.


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## Big Bull (Mar 22, 2011)

Fantastic pick up brother!! You must be a true McGuyver!! Enjoy that prize!!:rockon::rockon::rockon:



Johnpaul said:


> I wanted a wineadore because I keep my house warm but I was too cheap/broke to pay for one so I figured out how to get one without paying for it. I was looking at a 12-16 bottle unit to start a small collection. The $150-$200 was too much. I went into a thrift store and spotted a vinotemp vt-12 in perfect condition, other than it did not work. The Lady wanted $20 for it but I talked her down to $10 and walked out a happy man. Took it home and fixed it with a $2 capacitor.
> 
> So if any of you puffers out there are cheap like me you might be able to find a smokin deal on Craigslist or a thrift shop or whatever and with a small amout of work bring it back to working condition. As far as the vinotemp vt-12 & vt-16 go they seem to always have the same thing break and the repair is quick, simple, and cheap.


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## Johnpaul (Aug 15, 2011)

IMPORTANT UPDATE!!!!!!!

A few posts up I showed how I am currently taking care of humidity control. I was going threw my cooler and found a big problem. I had the fan blowing air up in the back and I discovered that too much humidity was hitting one of the boxes six inches above the fan and made a corner of the box very wet. Luckily I caught it before It ruined any cigars but It needed to be tweaked.

I have since turned the fan around so it blows down into the bottom chamber and then the air rolls up the front where the door is. I have also been able to set the fan to its "low" setting. I have been running this way for three days now and it works even better than before. So anyone who decides to use my method of rh control in their wine cooler *the fan must be blowing down*.


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