# Elricfate's Wineador (Koldfront 28 bottle)



## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

I jumped on the bandwagon last night and ordered a scratch and dent Koldfront (Edgestar) 28 bottle wine chiller from OpenBoxDirect for $88 shipped. 

It was a good deal, so I figured why not. I had planned on making a Wineador anyways and that was just too good a price to pass up.

I've been reading a lot about the various steps that need to be taken to remove the plastic smell, so I'm going to try to do it the slow way with lots of carbon ink newspaper and a wash of baking soda and water. 

I'm still not sure exactly how I want the drawers to be set up, but I'm forming ideas for some various customizations that should make it pretty. 

I'm thinking of getting a set of Forrest drawers with cherry or lacewood fronts, but I also need to find a local guy who can do a slip-frame cabinet front for the door so I can have it match the drawers I end up with. The guy I was going to use isn't dong wood work any more so now I have to find someone I have to pay (drat).

I plan on replacing the lighting with some personal drawer lighting and seeing if I can get Forrest on board with placing some hygrometer sized holes in the fronts of one or two of the drawers so I don't have to stick the hygrometers TO the drawer face, but just insert it with a rubber gasket to friction fit it into place.

I'm trying to decide on the optimal set up for using either RH beads or kitty litter with a small fan and am thinking that since I'm pretty good with electronics, I can whip up a small 120mm area fan with a rheostat to push air around near silently. 

The one thing that has me wondering is that I hear that the internal fan for all of these chillers has a tendency to not be good for even cello wrapped cigars, so that means I should probably stick a shelf in front of the cooling fan instead of having a drawer there that the air can move around against. Maybe I'm overthinking that, since he obviously makes 5 drawer setups that include a drawer in front of that fan area. 

This is my thinking and build thread, so if I ramble, or talk to myself, you'll know why.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

I decided on the Koldfront for two reasons, one the price was too good to pass up, but two, it doesn't have a digital temp control, it has an analog setup. That means that if the power goes out for any reason, it won't lose the settings I have it set on and that means I can use it on an external timer so it's not running 24/7. 

The slip-frame front I want to have built is to give the door the look of a custom hardwood without removing the utility of the dual pane design of the original door, or chancing that a full wooden door will warp and deform under humidity.


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

Did it have any dents or dings? When it came in? Prices are excellent on that site.

I'd make something similar to a picture frame that fits over the existing door. Just watch that as the door opens the frame doesn't hit the side cabinet and prevent opening. The only way it would work on my Emerson would be if I were to glue on very thin pieces of veneer. I thought about doing the entire cabinet in real wood veneer.


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## TonyBrooklyn (Jan 28, 2010)

Great price no doubt post some pics!


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Gdaddy said:


> Did it have any dents or dings? When it came in? Prices are excellent on that site.
> 
> I'd make something similar to a picture frame that fits over the existing door. Just watch that as the door opens the frame doesn't hit the side cabinet and prevent opening. The only way it would work on my Emerson would be if I were to glue on very thin pieces of veneer. I thought about doing the entire cabinet in real wood veneer.


I don't have it in my grubby little hands yet, I just ordered it last night. It's free shipping, so should be 2-5 business days.

The slip-frame is basically the same idea. A frame that goes over the door, but doesn't get glued on so can be removed for cleaning the edges of the glass and whatnot when it needs to be done. About the only real issues would be if the door were to bind, like you said, but I figure if you use a tapering design for the back and top parts (where the hinges are attached) it shouldn't be an issue. Until I get it in the house, though, I won't know for sure.

I didn't plan on doing the whole cabinet in a wood veneer, just the front, since that's what you'll see in relation to the fronts on the drawers, and I have a large drawer humidor I planned on sticking on top of the wineador for "immediate smokeables" -- though I might pass on that and place something else on top, and sell that humidor. Depends on how good this looks, I tend to hoard things like that.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

I stopped by my local B&M today (Barclay Pipe and Tobacco on Sawmill Road) and picked up five or six cigar boxes, only charged me like $4 to grab them since I'm now a more regular regular.

These should help with the plastic smell initially until I get a good set of shelves.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

So I figured this post was about useless without pics, so I snapped two of the cooler that came today.

This is the front and glass, as you can see I've filled it with newspaper and cigar boxes.



This is the only damage I could find on my "scratch and dent" model, that and a few little scuffs on the handle. As it is, I can take a silver sharpie marker to it for now since I planned on having that slip-frame built for the door anyways (or gluing a veneer to it if I can't luck out and find a new carpenter)


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

I sent an email to Forrest with some ideas/questions I had. I'm going to post the meat of the email here to keep you all abreast of what I have in mind.



> Idea 1) I want to have a wooden door for the front to match the wooden shelves. I was thinking I could find someone local to make a slip-frame door cover to go over it but the one guy I had in mind isn't going to be able to help me. I looked through all 360+ of your pictures and saw one that was a wooden door but couldn't tell if it was a full door or just a frame that went over the current door. Do you think this is something you could do and if so, how much?
> 
> Idea 2) I am wanting to add some interior lighting to the wineador moreso than just what's built in by the manufacturer of the chiller. My thoughts were an internal, all around the glass, inward facing light. I also was thinking that I would add two LED SMD5050 (or more dim version, I haven't decided fully) strips per drawer on each side, internally. I was hoping to highlight the cigars in the drawer by using a magnetic switch that would activate the drawer lighting once the door was opened so as not to have to manually control those lights. The only reason I am thinking about mounting the strips to the insides (left and right side) of the drawers is because I haven't found a set of drawers that is fully encased with a top that I can statically mount them to, so I will have to do some finagling with the wires in the back so they can move with the drawer as it opens but not bind up when closing.
> 
> ...


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

To expand on the lighting idea, since the others are pretty straight-forward. I am going to use surface mounted LED strips to achieve what I want. I haven't torn open the internal powered light in the chiller yet to see what I'm working with, so the following is just a rundown of what I would do without an already accessible power supply. This is all with a minimum of soldering (so others can follow and make adjustments without needing tools they may not have).

Amazon.com: HitLights LED Flexible Lighting Strip Cool White or Bright White, 5 Meter or 16 Ft, 3528 Type, 300 SMD, 24 Watt: Home Improvement

or

LEDwholesalers 16.4 Feet 300xSMD3528 LED Flexible Strip with Waterproof Sleeve LED Ribbon 5 Meter Reel 12 Volt, White 2047WH - Amazon.com

or

LEDwholesalers 5 Meter Reel Warm White 3100K Flexible LED Ribbon 300 LEDs 16ft 2026ww-31k - Amazon.com

Probably going with the middle set since they have the "Waterproof" silicone sleeve. All of these are trimmable every third LED in the strand. This will be used to run around the internal perimeter of the door, facing the drawers. That will be run 100% of the time.

HitLights 24 Watt LED Power Supply Driver Transformer, 110 volt AC to 12 volt DC Output - Amazon.com -- a moderate power supply. Enough to run the entire strand. Since my plans will likely only take about one strand worth of lights (16.4 ft) it should do fine.

Ledwholesalers Inline PWM 12 Volt 2 Amp Dimmer for LED Strips with DC Jack, 3318 - Amazon.com and Amazon.com: HitLights LED Strips On/Off Switch Connector With 1.6 Ft Cable and Female DC Plugs For SMD3528 LED Flexible Strip Light: Patio, Lawn & Garden will provide me with the ability to have an external control and dimmer for the door lights. Most of you might wonder why I am using inline and not an all in one solution and it's mostly just because it seems more "professional" to me if I can mount these as surface controls to the entire system rather than sticking a dial on the back somewhere.

Anytime Tools 127 pc Heat Shrink Wire Wrap Cable Sleeve Tubing Sets Assorted Size e/Case - Amazon.com will be used to make all the barrel plug connections more permanent. Should keep things from being unplugged by accident.

For the drawer lighting I am planning on having it controlled by the door opening and closing, this way there's not constant lights on the cigars (oxidation issues).

Amazon.com: Directed Electronics 8600 Micro Magnetic Switch: Car Electronics that magnetic switch will sit somewhere on the door and the frame of the chiller (I am thinking somewhere on the bottom, out of sight) and will control the strip lights. When the door is opened, they will turn on, illuminating the drawers, when the door is closed, the lights will turn off leaving only the door light to make the inside area shine but not damage the cigars.

For the door strands to connect properly, I am going to use Amazon.com: HitLights LED PCB Strip to Strip Connector, 2 Conductor, Any Angle Turn, For SMD3528 LED Strip Lights (4 Pcs Pack): Patio, Lawn & Garden in four sections so I can get the angles as perfect as I can, maybe. This might be a situation where I will want to solder and seal each individual connection, or shorten these connectors so it's less visible.

Since I'm planning on two side of the inside of the drawer mounted strips to light them up, I figured I would probably have to use a longer cable to make the connection through the back of the drawer. Amazon.com: HitLights 3.3 FT Extension LED Strip Connector, SMD 5050 Type And SMD3528 3-Color Type, Strip to Strip, Any Angle: Patio, Lawn & Garden those are 3.3ft in length, a piece, and I figure I can use one per drawer (cut them in half) and add connectors to the ends, Amazon.com: HitLights LED PCB Connector Box For 5050 SMD RGB Color Changing LED strip, Strip to Strip, 10 pcs: Patio, Lawn & Garden -- the only reason I am doing this rather than just 20ga wire is that I am trying to keep it as factory as possible without making custom cables .... this may yet change, depending on the requirements once I get my "test" parts ordered (and answers back from Forrest).

I am thinking that with the drawer cables, since I'll have no way of statically mounting them, I am going to need some kind of return for them. The thought occurred to me that I could mount a keychain spindle (the kind you put on your belt so you don't have to unclip keys, or ID cards) to the back of the chiller and attach it 3/4 of the way up the cable. That way when you pull the drawer out, the cable will slide out with it, but the spindle won't have so much pullback that it yanks the cable free of the light strip. Then you can close the drawer and it will assist the cable in retracting so it's not in the path of the drawer, or hanging down into the one below it.

I don't know, that's a work in progress. I'm just visualizing for that bit of work.


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

I can tell you as a professional wood worker that custom projects like this are a killer. They take a lot of time and you can't charge the price for the time spent figuring everything out and when it's done it may not be exactly what you were thinking of since you are unsure of what you really want. Your ideas are only conceptual.

Your custom project should be done by you and that way you'll get exactly the way you want it. It's also more fun and rewarding doing it yourself. My two cents.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Gdaddy said:


> I can tell you as a professional wood worker that custom projects like this are a killer. They take a lot of time and you can't charge the price for the time spent figuring everything out and when it's done it may not be exactly what you were thinking of since you are unsure of what you really want. Your ideas are only conceptual.
> 
> Your custom project should be done by you and that way you'll get exactly the way you want it. It's also more fun and rewarding doing it yourself. My two cents.


Fair enough. But I am not a woodworker. I don't claim even basic carpentry skills. The best thing I've ever done in wood was a headboard, and even that was as simple as getting the wood ripped to the right dimensions and using nails to do the rest. I know anything I make is going to look like amateur crap.

Edit: Also, don't just focus on the door frame. The rest is really the best, and I'm doing all of that myself.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

I sent off an email to Chasidor too... I'm not REALLY picky (though I would prefer Forrest drawers) on how I want to do it, I just want to get one of them on board with it. Plus, to be honest, if I'm doing business with someone on that level, I want to speak to them first anyways.

I've been waiting a few days for answers, so at least I'm being patient. However, once I get my answers, I'm not waiting months for stuff, so I'll likely pay for a RUSH option.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Well, I got a response from Forrest, but he's too busy to assist with the door. 

That's okay, though. I'm still drawing out diagrams for the lighting and he suggested ribbon cables, which might work too. It'll be another couple weeks before I can make an order for drawers, but that's okay. I am going to begin tearing down the electronics soon to see what I can tie directly into the chiller's power supply instead of forcing an external power supply to drive the lighting.


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## CarnivorousPelican (Jan 25, 2013)

man you are tempting me to get a scratch and dent model, but knowing my luck I would get one that is all jacked up...


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

CarnivorousPelican said:


> man you are tempting me to get a scratch and dent model, but knowing my luck I would get one that is all jacked up...


Do it and don't look back. The pictures of my "scratches" are all pre-sharpie. I went at it with a silver sharpie and now you can't even tell there WERE scratches there. It looks like it was just a display model at a store.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

I do have a very important question for people who have wineadors. Is there any airflow reason why you can't fill the entire thing with drawers and not use a single shelf? I don't store boxes, I tend to buy bundles or singles. What's stopping me from having nothing but drawers?


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## ejewell (Feb 19, 2013)

I've seen a few with nothing but drawers. A lot of them from what I've heard don't even have theirs plugged in during the summer so there really is only the circulation of them opening in and closing.

This is just what I have observed through reading, anyone feel free to correct me. lol.


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## CarnivorousPelican (Jan 25, 2013)

I ordered a full wineador for drawers I am only using that wineador to grab smokes out of..


So I will have 2 stations ( eventually just drawers), and them am looking at something larger way larger like 100+ bottle or a Avallo, Aristocrat, Fridge something to age etc...

Right now when I get the drawers from forrest I will have 1 wineador just drawers and another just shelves when the shelf wineador reaches capacity in a couple of months I will need something larger then I will get the drawers for that wineador...


Seriously am looking at a fridge... Just the biggest cheapest fridge I can find... I bet in less than 2 years I will have a full fridge and 2 wineadors.. Then am going to need another fridge... Hopefully by that time I can get a walk in built... Going by advice I have received here am thinking tupperdor in a fridge  because at a certain point it just becomes a utilitarian thing you have your showcase stuff then you have your utilitarian most effective method but I still haven't decided...


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

ejewell said:


> I've seen a few with nothing but drawers. A lot of them from what I've heard don't even have theirs plugged in during the summer so there really is only the circulation of them opening in and closing.
> 
> This is just what I have observed through reading, anyone feel free to correct me. lol.


Good. I didn't figure the drawers would cut off all circulation, there's still behind them (and through them, albeit that's low volume) where air can move. I just wanted to doublecheck with my peers before I went off on that tangent.


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## CarnivorousPelican (Jan 25, 2013)

elricfate said:


> Good. I didn't figure the drawers would cut off all circulation, there's still behind them (and through them, albeit that's low volume) where air can move. I just wanted to doublecheck with my peers before I went off on that tangent.


Just don't push the drawers all the way back and put a fan in the bottom facing up.. Cold air collects in the bottom of the wineadors...


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

CarnivorousPelican said:


> Just don't push the drawers all the way back and put a fan in the bottom facing up.. Cold air collects in the bottom of the wineadors...


Yea, I know about thermal qualities. Cold air heads to the bottom, warm air rises. Humidity collects towards the top and has a more difficult time dropping unless there's something circulating in at least a vortex motion.

I've put off thinking about how I am going to move air around and put a lot of time into the lighting. Once all is said and done it will all be running off the same 12v circuit (if I can help it, the internals might need to be rewired) or I might have to suck it up, do it the easy way, and just run another circuit.

Initial plan is a 120mm fan or two, towards the back of the unit at a 70* angle so as to pull air from the front, up the back, over the top, and down again. I'm still up in the air about that and need the drawers in place before I start designing a build sheet for it.


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## CarnivorousPelican (Jan 25, 2013)

elricfate said:


> Yea, I know about thermal qualities. Cold air heads to the bottom, warm air rises. Humidity collects towards the top and has a more difficult time dropping unless there's something circulating in at least a vortex motion.
> 
> I've put off thinking about how I am going to move air around and put a lot of time into the lighting. Once all is said and done it will all be running off the same 12v circuit (if I can help it, the internals might need to be rewired) or I might have to suck it up, do it the easy way, and just run another circuit.
> 
> Initial plan is a 120mm fan or two, towards the back of the unit at a 70* angle so as to pull air from the front, up the back, over the top, and down again. I'm still up in the air about that and need the drawers in place before I start designing a build sheet for it.


Same here I am waiting on the drawers from forest.. I like the idea of pulling the air through a box that has beads or kitty litter in it...


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

CarnivorousPelican said:


> Same here I am waiting on the drawers from forest.. I like the idea of pulling the air through a box that has beads or kitty litter in it...


I'm of two minds on that. Admittedly it's a two-way RH device (KL or beads) and so moving air shouldn't matter when it comes to how much moisture it draws from it, but... and here's where I'm apart from that thought, if you're constantly moving air through it, you're diminishing the ability for it to absorb moisture as thoroughly as before, forcing you to use a larger surface area/concentration for it to do the job it would have done normally without the extra air being drawn across it.

I know in the long run, whatever I end up doing, will be on a timer of sorts so I don't have it running all the time. 3-4 times a day, 15 minutes a piece, something similar to that, I'd wager.


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## ejewell (Feb 19, 2013)

CarnivorousPelican said:


> Just don't push the drawers all the way back and put a fan in the bottom facing up.. Cold air collects in the bottom of the wineadors...


This always confuses me, because the moist air is heavier and wants to sink, this air should have the tendency to be the warmer air as well. But I am also aware that warm air has lower density and sits above the cold layer. However, atmospherically speaking, the warm air is at the lower altitudes and it gets colder as you go higher.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

ejewell said:


> This always confuses me, because the moist air is heavier and wants to sink, this air should have the tendency to be the warmer air as well. But I am also aware that warm air has lower density and sits above the cold layer. However, atmospherically speaking, the warm air is at the lower altitudes and it gets colder as you go higher.


lol. Don't get going on that. You're thinking of two different worlds. Regular thermal properties of air versus thermal properties of an atmosphere, which is a completely different beast separated by giant BANDS of thermal irregularities and other magnetic properties of molecules.

Trust me, it's not worth getting too concerned with except that cold air sinks, warm air rises, humidity rises, dry air sinks. Just... go with it.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

So small update. I've had the bottom of the wine chiller filled with two cigar boxes of a shallow layer of kitty litter (less than 1.5" deep, giving plenty of surface area), with the temp at the least it will go (so it stays just a few degrees cooler than ambient) and did NOT plug the drain hole (I'm still thinking I might have to run cabling through it). Having said that, since last night, temp has been a steady, 62* and the humidity has been right at 68-69%.

I believe that once I get my drawers, I am going to use a hole saw to make the holes required for my hygrometer mounting (again, I am placing them directly into the drawer front instead of taping them to the fronts, it appears more elegant to me that way).

I also think I found my timer for turning the whole shebang on and off at intervals in order to keep the air moving until I have decided on a proper airflow diagram.

Intermatic DT620 Heavy Duty Indoor Digital Plug-In Timer, White - Amazon.com


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## CarnivorousPelican (Jan 25, 2013)

elricfate said:


> So small update. I've had the bottom of the wine chiller filled with two cigar boxes of a shallow layer of kitty litter (less than 1.5" deep, giving plenty of surface area), with the temp at the least it will go (so it stays just a few degrees cooler than ambient) and did NOT plug the drain hole (I'm still thinking I might have to run cabling through it). Having said that, since last night, temp has been a steady, 62* and the humidity has been right at 68-69%.
> 
> I believe that once I get my drawers, I am going to use a hole saw to make the holes required for my hygrometer mounting (again, I am placing them directly into the drawer front instead of taping them to the fronts, it appears more elegant to me that way).
> 
> ...


Dunno what your financial situation is, but this is what am going with has anyone ever had issues with these? I figure I could get 3 wireless sensors...

SALE - NIST Certified Wireless Hygrometer Thermometer 4380 - $84.95 - Fine Weather Instruments - The Weather Store


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

CarnivorousPelican said:


> Dunno what your financial situation is, but this is what am going with has anyone ever had issues with these? I figure I could get 3 wireless sensors...
> 
> SALE - NIST Certified Wireless Hygrometer Thermometer 4380 - $84.95 - Fine Weather Instruments - The Weather Store


I don't like the size of the wireless sensors on those, which is why I am opting for the hygroset IIIs set into the face of the drawers, this way I get a good idea of the humidity in the drawer itself, and don't take a bunch of room with the sensor. Now if they were small probes that could be easily mounted, I might consider it. But most of the ones with small probes aren't NIST certified, so what's the point in spending all the extra money when I can get something that will look far more elegant?

The one thing that I am worried about is RH swings, I'm pretty sure that with all the spanish cedar, and the huge amount of KL (or RH beads later) that will be on the bottom, as well as a probable sack or two in various areas, that the RH won't swing too badly for too long when the door is opened, but... I looked at the Chasidor drawers with the glass tops and solid bottoms, they remind of a separate slide-in humidor. I don't see anything like that in the Forrest lineup, and Waxing Moon has nothing about wineadors on his website.

The thought occurred to me to house my Acids (which are currently in a separate humidor I don't mind being infested) in one of the Chasidor style drawers, to keep it from infesting the rest of the drawers.


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## CarnivorousPelican (Jan 25, 2013)

elricfate said:


> I don't like the size of the wireless sensors on those, which is why I am opting for the hygroset IIIs set into the face of the drawers, this way I get a good idea of the humidity in the drawer itself, and don't take a bunch of room with the sensor. Now if they were small probes that could be easily mounted, I might consider it. But most of the ones with small probes aren't NIST certified, so what's the point in spending all the extra money when I can get something that will look far more elegant?
> 
> The one thing that I am worried about is RH swings, I'm pretty sure that with all the spanish cedar, and the huge amount of KL (or RH beads later) that will be on the bottom, as well as a probable sack or two in various areas, that the RH won't swing too badly for too long when the door is opened, but... I looked at the Chasidor drawers with the glass tops and solid bottoms, they remind of a separate slide-in humidor. I don't see anything like that in the Forrest lineup, and Waxing Moon has nothing about wineadors on his website.
> 
> The thought occurred to me to house my Acids (which are currently in a separate humidor I don't mind being infested) in one of the Chasidor style drawers, to keep it from infesting the rest of the drawers.


I don't smoke infused cigars but when I was the Queen of England I only Smoked Cubans, but since I was dethroned and that impostor has taken my place I am now banished to the wastelands of America as such I smoke Liga Privada #9 because of the sweet Mata Fina binder that encases the unique blend of Honduran and Dominican filler when you didn't think that was enough topped off by a superb Connecticut Broadleaf wrapper. What is there not to like? 

2-1/3 x 3-1/2 x 3/4 isn't to big for the sensors.. I just like it because I have two wineadors so I can check the humidity from one place for two... I been looking for a datalogger that is cheap so I can see what the RH swing is and recovery... The dataloggers I have seen are all 200+ dollars.. What would be really awesome is either make something cheap or find something that is 802.11  that a computer can poll...


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

CarnivorousPelican said:


> 2-1/3 x 3-1/2 x 3/4 isn't to big for the sensors.. I just like it because I have two wineadors so I can check the humidity from one place for two... I been looking for a datalogger that is cheap so I can see what the RH swing is and recovery... The dataloggers I have seen are all 200+ dollars.. What would be really awesome is either make something cheap or find something that is 802.11  that a computer can poll...


It's larger than I want to use (with the exception of on the front of the drawers) -- but if you have two, it makes sense. I only have the one, and I'd like to be able to read humidity by zone, if I did use the wireless one, I'd have to place a few of them in the areas I am wanting to monitor, which would take up too much space for me.

As for a datalogger, it wouldn't be difficult to set up a small board to pull data on a schedule and write to an SD card. The code itself would probably be less than twenty lines, depending on how it has to interface with the sensor... the interface itself might be take more than the twenty lines, unless it could be read as a raw output. I got a buddy who made a wireless RH monitor with a raspberry pi (or planned to make one, I forget which) that could be accessed via the internet. It's outside of the realm of what I am looking to do at the moment.


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## CarnivorousPelican (Jan 25, 2013)

elricfate said:


> It's larger than I want to use (with the exception of on the front of the drawers) -- but if you have two, it makes sense. I only have the one, and I'd like to be able to read humidity by zone, if I did use the wireless one, I'd have to place a few of them in the areas I am wanting to monitor, which would take up too much space for me.
> 
> As for a datalogger, it wouldn't be difficult to set up a small board to pull data on a schedule and write to an SD card. The code itself would probably be less than twenty lines, depending on how it has to interface with the sensor... the interface itself might be take more than the twenty lines, unless it could be read as a raw output. I got a buddy who made a wireless RH monitor with a raspberry pi (or planned to make one, I forget which) that could be accessed via the internet. It's outside of the realm of what I am looking to do at the moment.


I was thinking of using an arduino but I haven't decided on chips yet because the chips I was looking at I can't figure out which one would be best to use...


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Oh, oh god.

I hate you and my friends. Now I'm actually considering an AM2302 (wired DHT22) sensor, or maybe the DHT11 sensor, and a raspberry pi. I don't even need this and I'm considering it.

In other news, I spent most of yesterday poring through DX and coming up with, what I think, is a better solution to my lighting idea.

They have SMD boards with festoon adapters (FD1210-12W 0.7W 75lm 6000K White Light 12-SMD 3528 LED Car Lamp w/ T10 / BA9S / Festoon Adapter - Free Shipping - DealExtreme - made for car dome lights) that have 3528 SMD LEDs attached. Generally they're under a watt and around the 3500k-4500k color range, this makes them pretty close to "warm white light" and away from that "cool blue" LED color. I was thinking instead of using the strip LEDs to make lighting along the sides of the insides of the drawers, I could use one single panel with a slight cant (about 15*) attached to the back of the drawer, to shine light over the cigars when the door is opened, or perhaps when the drawer is pulled out. It could be done pretty easily with a Hall sensor or a microswitch (for the per drawer) as opposed to a single magnetic switch for all drawers. I'm still undecided.

I think, though, that I've decided against using the LED strip cable to do a perimeter light around the inside of the door and may, instead, use one of the panel strips I found (3W 3500K 200-Lumen Warm White LED Emitter Metal Strip (12~14V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme) to use as a downward facing dome light at the front of the drawers (top of the wineador ceiling). That way I don't have light directly facing the drawer faces, but rather shining down from above.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Of course the board I link is a 6000k board. The point still stands, though.


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## CarnivorousPelican (Jan 25, 2013)

That AM2302 how accurate is that? I was looking at something like HTS2030SMD


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

CarnivorousPelican said:


> That AM2302 how accurate is that? I was looking at something like HTS2030SMD


It's likely more accurate than that SMD chip you're looking at. The HTS2030SMD appears to have the same (or similar) structure as the DHT11, which is not as accurate as the DHT22... and neither one is nearly as accurate as the Sensiron SHT11, which, from the literature, is amazingly accurate.



> The Sensirion SHT1x addresses many of these issues head on. It is a smart sensor for both humidity and temperature, and it comes from the factory in a tiny package that incorporates the analog to digital interface. All that your microcontroller has to do is read out the humidity and temperature values through the two-wire digital serial interface. The only math required is a simple scale and offset. The SHT1x is factory calibrated so that it returns temperature with a resolution of 0.01 degrees Celsius and relative humidity with a resolution of 0.03 percent. The accuracy is better than most other sensors too. Worst-case temperature accuracy is +/- 2 degrees C - but in the "room temperature" range the accuracy better than +/- 1 degree C. The relative humidity sensor is similarly accurate: +/- 3.5% in the range 20% to 80%.


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## CarnivorousPelican (Jan 25, 2013)

elricfate said:


> It's likely more accurate than that SMD chip you're looking at. The HTS2030SMD appears to have the same (or similar) structure as the DHT11, which is not as accurate as the DHT22... and neither one is nearly as accurate as the Sensiron SHT11, which, from the literature, is amazingly accurate.


Nice that SHT25 looks to be perfect... I am going to have to resume my project it looks like thanks for turning me onto sensirion... That looks to be exactly what I was looking for.... I couldn't find the right sensor... Actually the SHT75 will make my life easier


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Argh. It's been some time now and I still haven't made an order for the drawers. The problem is that I can't seem to get an answer about how much depth the drawers have and how much room I will have behind them to work with inside of the wineador. Does anyone have the answer? Is it 1", 2", etc?


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## madirishman (May 12, 2010)

Take a look at my build. Enjoy your cooler, they are a great buy!

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/cigar-accessory-discussion/299162-my-edgestar-28-build.html


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

This isn't dead, but finances have definitely slowed me down some. I think I've figured out the direction to go with the lighting and will be using disc lights instead of strip or rope lighting. I also will be picking up some ribbon cables to wire up the beast.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Ugh. This has been put on hold for, probably, the next couple of months due to my wife needing a new set of LG Washer/Dryer, the Red ones that are a ton of money because they're red... and the drawers they sit on, too. But if I'm going to spend a bunch on a Wineador, she should get her toys too, I guess.

In the meantime, I'm trying to think of some kind of decoration for the glass pane. Likely something that won't cover it completely, maybe just border it... or something in the center. I can't think of any decals I might enjoy, maybe some of you can come up with some? If nothing else, I suppose I can line the border with cigar rings.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Phew. While we still have not purchased the new equipment, I am moving ahead with this project a bit at a time. I have a master carpenter lined up to give me a quote on a cherry slip-frame for the door on the Wineador. He said he can also replace the handle, so that's rather exciting. Since we can't find time to get together at my place, I'm going to get some dimensions and take some pictures so he can work up a price quote. I'll put it here once I get it, to give you an idea of right around how much it should be, but I don't doubt it's not going to be as cheap as I hope ;-)


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Well, while my finances went stagnant for a little bit, I finally got all my duckies in a row this month and will not only have my Steelwater gun safe, but I ordered a set of Forrest's drawers (Ed at Waxingmoon is starting up his Wineador business in a month or two per his email, and I never even got a reply from Chasidor). 

I got the EdgeStar/Koldfront 5 Drawer 1 Shelf with Cherry Hardwood fronts (including the shelf) and 3" drawer pulls. I ordered it RUSH and am having him invoice me for a bead tray for underneath the false front bottom drawer. Once all that gets here and I get it equalized, I'm going to start to build a PVC exhaust bar for each drawer. There's a small slat in the back of each Forrest drawer, or at least that's what I observed, and I am going to point a PVC bar with holes indexed in it directly at that. One PVC exhaust bar per drawer, with an intake at the bottom of the wineador set on a digital timer to run once every 6-8 hours for 10-15 minutes ought to keep the humidity pretty even throughout.

Then it's just time to sit down and figure out HOW I want my lights to be mounted, and WHERE I want them to be.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Another thing I've been thinking of... I was looking for some kind of sticker or stick-on logo for the wineador and coming up with results that were not tenable or results that I simply didn't like...

So I think I'm going to go a different way and get some Glass Etching cream and actually either etch the inside or outside of the glass. Now to decide on a logo to use, or phrase... nothing too difficult to tape off, though I suppose almost anything can be etched as long as it is high contrast.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

huh, weird. The image shows up in my preview but not in my post. It's the Torano "Make Time to Burn" lettering. I think I might try that in big text, and find a high contrast cigar sketch and/or whiskey tumbler...

Unless we have some artists on here who are willing to sketch it out, of course.


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## Emperor Zurg (May 6, 2013)

Breezing thru this thread, one thing comes to mind.

Pics.
...or GTFO


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Emperor Zurg said:


> Breezing thru this thread, one thing comes to mind.
> 
> Pics.
> ...or GTFO


Yea, yea. I can't take pics of what I don't have. And while I ordered the drawers on RUSH, that still means at least another week. 

I can, however, give you a pic of what I just finished today. I made a trip to Michaels and got some Armour Etch. This is the result.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

It needs a little windex to get the last little bit of the corners of the lettering off (I used thick stickers so I could do a negative etch), but otherwise I think it looks pretty nice. The flash makes it look a little uneven, but backlit or under regular light, it looks fine.


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## Emperor Zurg (May 6, 2013)

That's pretty cool. I've never heard of Armour Etch. Always just used the bead blaster to make frosted glass...


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Emperor Zurg said:


> That's pretty cool. I've never heard of Armour Etch. Always just used the bead blaster to make frosted glass...


Yea, it was the difference in using a $12 chemical process to etch the glass, or buying $80 in equipment to hook up to my compressor to do it and then having no other use for the equipment.

I opted for the $12 chemicals. I washed it down last night and it looks pretty nice. Once I get my drawers in, I'll take some pics of them inside of it and decide what kind of lighting I want to use. I'm still thinking edge-lit door so it doesn't leak into the drawers and cause oxidation.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

I really need to find someone here with some artistic talent to make me an easily transferable cigar stencil.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Ordered a couple of things while I wait on my drawers. I mean, I ordered a bunch of stuff (because I'm also ordering a $1300 safe in a week, so I needed some accessories for it as well) -- but the stuff that pertains to my cigar hobby were:

Ambient Weather Wireless Indoor/Outdoor 8-Channel Thermo-Hygrometer with Daily Min/Max Display model WS-08-X2 -- which means one console, two sensors. One for my wineador, the other for my safe. I figure this way I can keep an eye on both things that require hygrometer readings.

I also snagged two 8oz bags of Shilala HCM Beads to go along with the HF 65% humidity beads I already have. I figure it's double the amount I would need, on both counts, and they should go really well together in a sealed system like a wineador. I wanted to get some Heartfelt sheets to put under the drawers (and use my HF beads in a different way) but they were sold out of those.

Once the Forrest Drawers get here, I need to find a power supply, a timer, and some type of lighting for the front. It's coming along quite nicely.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Good news! The Ambient Weather Hygrometer sensors are incredible and accurate. I put them in the Wineador (without shelves, but at current humidity of 66% as measured by calibrated digital hygrometer) and one read 65% after a couple hours, the other was at 66%. I calibrated the display to mark the one at 66% (since you calibrate at the display rather than the sensor) and it's been steady ever since.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Good news! My drawers arrived! I never realized how much spanish cedar smelled like bug spray when it's in large amounts, though. As it seasons the smell is dissipating, it's just pretty amusing to me.

Here are the drawers I ordered:









And here they are with the door closed, you can clearly cigar the "CIGAR VAULT" etching pretty well:


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

I had him make me a bead tray and I have it full underneath the bottom drawer, I also have the two 8oz packets of HCM beads that I'll place in two of the drawers. I'm seeing now that there's almost no clearance behind the drawers to place the piping system I wanted but I think I can still make it work if I work with small enough PVC. We shall see in the near future. I'm ordering LED light bars for my safe and undercabinet lights in the kitchen, so I'm up and down on whether I want to make a front-lighted system for it or not. I'll decide soon, I think.


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## Kilo (Feb 7, 2014)

Nice and clean, looks awesome! The etching is cool and may try that myself. Thanks for the build thread.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Wineador has been a solid 66% humidity for a long while now with (2lbs) Heartfelt in the tray I had Forrest make and two 8oz bags HCM beads (top and middle drawer). I don't have a circulating humidity system in place yet, but from the measurements I am taking at different levels, there doesn't appear to be a huge need for one yet... I might need to only run it once or twice a day for a few minutes when I finally do build one. Also, no lighting installed yet. I'm taking turns between this and outfitting my very large new safe with goodies.

Here's a picture of the stash as it stands. I still need more to fill it up though.

Shelf:

View attachment 48008


First drawer:

View attachment 48007


Second drawer:

View attachment 48012


Third drawer:

View attachment 48009


Fourth drawer:

View attachment 48010


Fifth drawer:

View attachment 48011


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Couple of things I noticed/found out today. 

A) The dip in the back of the slats that the drawers ride on is just a hair over 1/2". I had some 1/2" thick flat board that I cut and placed in the back. This keeps the drawers from wobbling when they're inserted and keeps the top shelf level when there's more weight on the back than on the front. 

B) The light module in this definitely runs off 12v and puts out about 1400ma. Too bad the switch is set into the back where the temp control is. Maybe I can move that to a different location and run something off of it.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Welp. After running some simulations using some Ikea Dioders I have, I realize that I actually dislike the idea of there being lights inside the wineador. I'm going to disable the lighting completely.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

So couple of things to note. I've been running my wineador simply on the internal fan and it has uniformly stuck between 66 and 67% RH between the top and the bottom. It appears as though it's stable and uniform. This goes against everything I've heard about using a separate fan to push the air around and reminds me that not all situations are the same (although I did hook up a 12v wall wart plug to a 12v squirrel cage CPU fan so if I want to add a fan in there I just need to find a timer for it). 

Another thing to note is that I believe that I need another one. This one has 332 cigars in it so far (I took an inventory yesterday, by hand until I can get the Cigar Dossier database updated and running properly), it's not FULL, but it's getting close. Maybe in another 100-150 cigars I will have to start really fighting for room in it. If I find a deal on another thermo-wine cooler, I'm grabbing it and sitting on it until I've decided what to do. Maybe I'll put another wineador out in the garage, where I spend most of my time smoking my stogies and working on projects anyhow.


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## ejewell (Feb 19, 2013)

elricfate said:


> Welp. After running some simulations using some Ikea Dioders I have, I realize that I actually dislike the idea of there being lights inside the wineador. I'm going to disable the lighting completely.


idk which are the dioders, but I use Ikea lights in both of mine. They don't stay on constantly but from time to time I run em. why don't you like em?


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

ejewell said:


> idk which are the dioders, but I use Ikea lights in both of mine. They don't stay on constantly but from time to time I run em. why don't you like em?


DIODER LED 4-piece light strip set - IKEA

Those are the Dioders. I have a set from years back that I was testing with for funsies. I looked at the wineador after I had removed its lighting module (so I could run the fan without having the internal light on) and found that it's well lit in the ambient lighting in my workroom. When I put the dioders in different places (I placed them on the door facing each other and only providing ambient glow into the wineador, facing directly into the wineador, and on the top of the wineador..) I found that I didn't really like the effect.

When I put them on the door facing each other so they backlit the glass, I found it hard to see the drawer faces clearly, and damn it I paid for cherry drawer faces so I could see them.

When I put them on the door facing the inside of the wineador, they washed out the cherry's grain and put big white spots in certain spots which looked amateur.

When I put them on the top facing down, they just lit up the top shelf and glared off a box of RyJ Coronas I'm storing on the shelf.

I originally liked the idea of lighting in the drawers but then it occurred to me when you open the drawers, you get ambient light as it is. And I'm never working in that room without the overhead light being on anyways.

So I just decided not to even bother.


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## ejewell (Feb 19, 2013)

yeah. you really don't need lighting I've noticed. plus lighting is not so good for the sticks. 

I went with the longer one and put them on the door facing inward, but not toward the drawers. Hope that makes sense. excellent distribution but again a bit much. I don't have any fancy finish on mine because the Koldfront glass is actually a little tinted and makes the wood seem darker which works for me. 

I was just curious why you weren't diggin em. lol. 

Now you gotta get a second one. That's what I did.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

It's been awhile, but I think I figured out what I wanted to do. I've noticed that one of my hygrometers has some disparity against another one, and they're located in different areas of the wineador. As such, instead of adding an oust fan or something similar, I pulled a CPU cooler from an old PC that is a snail fan type (squirrel cage) and I found that the 3/4" inner diameter PVC I had laying around sat perfectly behind the drawers.

Excuse my horrible paint skills, but you'll get an idea of what I'm doing if I just show you.


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## profanitypete (Jul 18, 2014)

Elricfate, I've read this entire thread as well as others & I must say, it looks great. I'm on the cusp of ordering a Koldfront 28 myself, and building my own shelves/drawers. On that note, I was actually wondering if you or anyone else with a Koldfront could do me a favor & take some measurements so I can start drafting? I really only need four measurements, three if the back of the fridge doesn't taper.

Shelf width (front):
Shelf width (back):
Shelf depth:
Shelf thickness (for the groove in the fridge):

For the depth, if you include the decorative front, could you give me the thickness of that wood as well?


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

profanitypete said:


> Elricfate, I've read this entire thread as well as others & I must say, it looks great. I'm on the cusp of ordering a Koldfront 28 myself, and building my own shelves/drawers. On that note, I was actually wondering if you or anyone else with a Koldfront could do me a favor & take some measurements so I can start drafting? I really only need four measurements, three if the back of the fridge doesn't taper.
> 
> Shelf width (front):
> Shelf width (back):
> ...


First off, thank you. I'm pretty happy with her.

Second off, are you wanting raw measurements of the fridge internal dimensions or are you wanting measurements for the drawers I had Forrest make? From reading comprehension it looks like you want raw internal dimensions, but for the depth you want it with the drawer front included rather than depth to the door.


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## profanitypete (Jul 18, 2014)

elricfate said:


> First off, thank you. I'm pretty happy with her.
> 
> Second off, are you wanting raw measurements of the fridge internal dimensions or are you wanting measurements for the drawers I had Forrest make? From reading comprehension it looks like you want raw internal dimensions, but for the depth you want it with the drawer front included rather than depth to the door.


Sorry - it's been a long week. I haven't seen or handled any of Forrest's drawers in person, but assuming they fit well I'm really looking for the measurements for the drawers you had him make. The drawer is really a dovetailed box glued to the top of one of his shelves, or at least it looks it.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

profanitypete said:


> Sorry - it's been a long week. I haven't seen or handled any of Forrest's drawers in person, but assuming they fit well I'm really looking for the measurements for the drawers you had him make. The drawer is really a dovetailed box glued to the top of one of his shelves, or at least it looks it.


No worries. I can get you drawer measurements if you're wanting to try fabricating your own.


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## profanitypete (Jul 18, 2014)

elricfate said:


> No worries. I can get you drawer measurements if you're wanting to try fabricating your own.


That would be great and much appreciated. Also, I haven't seen a clear picture anywhere - how many shelf slots are there in the Koldfront 28?


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## profanitypete (Jul 18, 2014)

elricfate said:


> No worries. I can get you drawer measurements if you're wanting to try fabricating your own.


So now that Puff is back (wtf?), do you happen to have those dimensions?


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

profanitypete said:


> So now that Puff is back (wtf?), do you happen to have those dimensions?


I haven't forgotten about you. I just haven't been home yet.


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## profanitypete (Jul 18, 2014)

elricfate said:


> I haven't forgotten about you. I just haven't been home yet.


No worries, I am just happy Puff is back!


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Okay. Finally back home. Business trips suck.

Shelf width (front): (with shelf slide) 14 7/16" (without shelf slide, just the drawer sides) 13 1/16"
Shelf width (back): (with shelf slide) 14 7/16" (without shelf slide, just the drawer sides) 13 1/16"
Shelf depth: (with hardwood face) 11 7/16" 
Shelf thickness (for the groove in the fridge): Groove for the slides are 5/16"


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

I think this may be my last "build" post in here. I didn't make the piping because it seemed like a whole lot of overkill but I did use the "moving air" concept and attached a snail fan to the top with velcro. It pulls the more humid air up top and forces it back down to the bottom. It's set on a fifteen minute on, fifteen minute off interval. It seems to make the overall humidity very regular so I'm leaving it.

Here's my current loadout.

The top shelf








Drawer one








Drawer two








Drawer three








Drawer four








Drawer five








Cedar tray with humidification beads








Additional humidor with infused as well as cutters, lighters, my soapstone rests and other ashtrays/cases








And of course my humidity monitor


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## streetz166 (May 20, 2014)

I like that humidity monitor. Which one is it?


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

streetz166 said:


> I like that humidity monitor. Which one is it?


http://www.amazon.com/Ambient-Weather-WS-08-X2-8-Channel-Thermo-Hygrometer/dp/B00EW463SS

That's the one I got. Two remotes because I have one in my gun safe.


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## JIK (Sep 4, 2014)

I agree thats a cool console. Have you found it to be accurate?


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

I calibrated with a humidipak one-step calibration pouch at 75%, it read 76%, which I then calibrated down to 75% (since you do calibrations at the console and not at the remote sensor). So within +/- 1% -- the other remote was dead on. I just recalibrated since I changed my batteries about three weeks ago and found the same to be true. (I've had this hygro setup for almost a year now)


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## JIK (Sep 4, 2014)

Nice!


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## mikebot (Sep 17, 2015)

Can we see some pics? For some reason all of the pics in the earlier posts are not showing up for me. I'm really interested in your lighting setup described earlier in the thread.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

mikebot said:


> Can we see some pics? For some reason all of the pics in the earlier posts are not showing up for me. I'm really interested in your lighting setup described earlier in the thread.


Page 5 has pictures. I also have some here: My Wineador - Album on Imgur

Also I abandoned the lighting setup. I decided that lighting it wasn't as important as I thought it once was due to considerations with oxidation and poor mounting positions.


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## elco69 (May 1, 2013)

elricfate said:


> Page 5 has pictures. I also have some here: My Wineador - Album on Imgur
> 
> Also I abandoned the lighting setup. I decided that lighting it wasn't as important as I thought it once was due to considerations with oxidation and poor mounting positions.


Nice setup. Purely out of curiosity, what did you use to stain the faces of the drawers? I am doing a red stained mahogany veneer on my drawers and shelves next week.


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

elco69 said:


> Nice setup. Purely out of curiosity, what did you use to stain the faces of the drawers? I am doing a red stained mahogany veneer on my drawers and shelves next week.


They're Wineadors.com drawers with a cherry hardwood front.


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## elco69 (May 1, 2013)

elricfate said:


> They're Wineadors.com drawers with a cherry hardwood front.


Gotcha, thanks!


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## Cdncubanlvr (Oct 10, 2015)

Haven't read the whole thread to see if someone suggested an Ambient weather ws-10 but that's going to be a good option for you in terms of multiple RH sensors and a really nice display for the info. ..

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Cdncubanlvr said:


> Haven't read the whole thread to see if someone suggested an Ambient weather ws-10 but that's going to be a good option for you in terms of multiple RH sensors and a really nice display for the info. ..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/v...dfront-28-bottle-post3955335.html#post3955335

also take a look at the actual pictures: My Wineador - Album on Imgur


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## Cdncubanlvr (Oct 10, 2015)

Beauty. I'm still 3 weeks out from expected ship date for my drawers.. jumped the gun and have 90 cigars on the way from cbid.. oops! Looks like it'll be tuperdors for me for a little while. .

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

Cdncubanlvr said:


> Beauty. I'm still 3 weeks out from expected ship date for my drawers.. jumped the gun and have 90 cigars on the way from cbid.. oops! Looks like it'll be tuperdors for me for a little while. .
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


I kept mine in some giant 2.5 gallon zip-loc bags for a month.


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## TravisNTexas (Aug 12, 2015)

Very nice build! I had not thought of etching the glass, but am very much considering it now! I also found the top shelf photo that shows the fan mount, so thanks for pointing me here. Very well done!


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

It's been five years, almost six, at this point. I still use this wineador to store everything. Lately I've noticed the temperature is at 76* even though ambient is 70*, so I think there's something wrong with the thermo-cooler setup in it. I just unplugged it (but left my timed fan that moves humidity around), seeing if it will come back to ambient for a little while before I take it apart.


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## JtAv8tor (Apr 12, 2017)

elricfate said:


> It's been five years, almost six, at this point. I still use this wineador to store everything. Lately I've noticed the temperature is at 76* even though ambient is 70*, so I think there's something wrong with the thermo-cooler setup in it. I just unplugged it (but left my timed fan that moves humidity around), seeing if it will come back to ambient for a little while before I take it apart.


Talk about following up ! Hope all is well


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## elricfate (Mar 2, 2013)

JtAv8tor said:


> Talk about following up ! Hope all is well


Everything is pretty great. New truck, new motorcycle, new daughter. It's all coming up roses. 

I, honestly, came back to figure out which model of wine fridge I used because I forgot. I was going to see if it was worth the trouble to try to fix this one, or just buy a new one for another hundred bucks, but I can't find any below $200 -- so I'll give it a try. Worst case, it sits in a climate controlled house all day, I don't even REALLY need the cooling ability of the wine fridge.


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## JtAv8tor (Apr 12, 2017)

elricfate said:


> Everything is pretty great. New truck, new motorcycle, new daughter. It's all coming up roses.
> 
> I, honestly, came back to figure out which model of wine fridge I used because I forgot. I was going to see if it was worth the trouble to try to fix this one, or just buy a new one for another hundred bucks, but I can't find any below $200 -- so I'll give it a try. Worst case, it sits in a climate controlled house all day, I don't even REALLY need the cooling ability of the wine fridge.


I have an Old Vinotemp that's going on 12 yeas old now, snagged for 50 bucks from Target back during that time on a sale.. good luck finding them for less than as you said 200 these days. I have not plugged any of my wine coolers in for several years now as the house stays ~70 year round and I have not had any issues at all.


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