# How To Restore Estate Pipes YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE



## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

I've been seeing a lot of questions regarding pipe restoration lately. I got into it maybe 3 or 4 months ago and fell as hard as anyone could. Y'all think cigars and pipes are a steep slope? Well then I recommend buying a lot of crappy estates on ebay. Thats a steep one!

Well after 3 or 4 months of spending all my free time researching, developing and testing methods of restoring old pipes, I've decided to cockily proclaim myself a master of the craft and allow all you who are less than worthy to ask questions from me, your master.

I am of course kidding.

While I am still no where NEAR and expert, I love helping people with their restoration endeavors and the questions that result. The internet has no "one stop shop" for pipe restorers and it'll take you weeks to sift through all the youtube videos just to end up with a handful of helpful tips (I've been there; I think I've watched every youtube video with "pipe" "estate" or "restore" in the name plus about a billion more). I've looked at all the internet sites, the videos, the books, etc. So thats what this thread is; a one stop shop. I see all kinds of thread popping up with questions, now you can ask them here. I'll do my best to personally respond to every question and anyone else with a quick tip is also more than welcome to give their $0.02. You can PM me your questions or post them in the thread.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

I'll start by posting a few questions I answered in another thread:

1. Looking at reamers, it seems like both the senior and the Castleford are a good idea. The downside to the senior is the bottom of the bowl does not get worked properly, and the Castleford only works for standard shaped bowls, but works great for the bottom. So which one should I start with, assuming both were available? Personally, I like neither. I EXCLUSIVELY hand ream my pipes. I am a proponent of reaming but In some old estate pipes, its impossible to get a smooth ream with tools. Most estate pipes are from some guy who was never told about "dime thickness" or any of the things pipe hobbyists know. They just put tobacco in and lit it. So a lot of times youll have patchy cake or chipped cake. I take a knife and then a fine rasp and spend a few hours making the inside perfectly smooth. The smoother the better because a smooth cake will be a better foundation for future caking. A jagged or patchy cake will cause faults to form in your cake which will lead to structural problems.

2. Whats the best method to remove old varnish or wax. I think for smooth pipes, sanding, but what about rusticated pipes? Personaly, all finish removal is done with acetone (nail polish remover). Thats all I'll ever use. Finish stripper used for furniture is MUCH too rough for the finish on your pipe. I've actually noticed it bleaches your grain making the bullseye and flame much less intricate. Acetone takes longer but you'll be left with a much prettier bare wood. Many of my pipes have been acetoned and then re polished because the grain is already so beautiful. Anytime I have to use a different method of finish removal, staining often is needed.

3. Whats the best way to clean bits? TOOTHPASTE. If the bit is as green as these letters, take a little drop of metal polish (I use brasso) and mix it with the same amount of toothpaste you usually use to brush your teeth. I actually use a toothbrush a few times and really massage it into the bit just like you're brushing your teeth, with a brush and water. Then dry it off after it turns to a dull black and take toothpaste and a rag (no water this time) and "paint" the stem with paste. Then take the rag in your fist wrapped around the stem and rub up and down the stem as quickly as possible. The heat and friction will put a BEAUTIFUL shine on your stem. Then rub some vaseline into the stem with a rag for future protection.

4. If you had to think of a cost effective newb kit that you would put together, what specific products would you use or buy? Brasso, cheap white toothpaste, good pipe cleaners (this is one area you should NEVER skimp. but some good cotton bristled, cotton, and cotton tapered cleaners) a bunch of good rags, acetone, feibings leather dye (if you decide to restain anything) whatever you want to use for a finish (be it carnauba, tung, mineral oil etc) and most importantly, ultrahigh grit steel wool. Buy the stuff with the most zeros (0000 if possible). This will be important for a final smoothing before you put the ending finish on. I use steel wool more often than anything else in my artillery.

5. I understand that before using your top coat of wax you should use a first set of wax or prep? What would this be? Would this come before or after staining? After staining. Finish is the very last step. If you choose to use wax, buff it on then buff off with 0000 steel wool. Do this 1-3 times (depending on how OCD you want to be) then do your final wax coat.

6. Do you have a preferred stain brand/type? Whats the best way to apply it? I'm a feibings guy. I stain it like anything else then buff until I see a grain I like. I think it looks really pretty if you put feibings black then buff, then dark brown and buff. It REALLY brings out the grain becasue the stain makes the grain super dark.

7. I do not have a bench grinder or polishing wheel, but I do have a dremel, what attachments would be best? I have a dremel too. Unless youre rusticating or reshaping, I don't feel like you have any reason to use a dremel. And I probably wouldnt recommend it for waxing either. If you can find a powerdrill, use that. Bolt it to something then use vicegrips to keep it at the desired speed. Put your buffing wheel in the bit hole.

8. What have you found to be a good hole/crack filler? Honestly, I use whatever I finish with. The whole reason people do multiple layers of wax is to fill small holes. Now I know everyone wants to make a perfect pipe but I think the little pits and stuff are like beauty marks on a pin up girl. they show character and life in the wood. The pipes personality, if you will. So i don't worry too hard about putting filler in the holes. Let the wax take care of it. Eventually it'll wear down and youll begin to see a little dimple there. When that happens, I just refinish it again!


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## pffintuff (Apr 20, 2011)

O.K., I'll bite. What is the best way to restore the luster and shine on old estate pipes ?
With or without a buffing wheel. I've heard carnuba wax is the best. How do you apply it ? Is this the same wax you find at auto stores ? What other waxes can be used on briar ?
Thanks for your help.


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## JD11 (Aug 21, 2008)

where do you get your carnauba wax ? locally ? online ? link if possible . Thanks


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

O.K., I'll bite. What is the best way to restore the luster and shine on old estate pipes ?
With or without a buffing wheel. I've heard carnuba wax is the best. How do you apply it ? Is this the same wax you find at auto stores ? What other waxes can be used on briar ?
Thanks for your help.

Okay this is literally the hardest question you could ask me. The final finish on a pipe is one of the most widely varying methods of people like me, self taught restorers. Some say shellac it and be done with it. Others say carnauba is the only way to go. Then you'll see people using polyurethane and all kinds of other woodfinishing products as well. Personally, I like to use my own special method. I've always been a proponent of refurbishing the pipe as old fashioned, natural and handworked as possible. For this reason I always manually ream my bowls (without reaming tools or that stuff). So when it come to finish, I like to use a mix of natural oils and a final layer of carnauba wax. Once my pipe is completely done, I like to give it a good rub down with mineral oil. You can find it at any drugstore, its generally used as a laxative. The mineral oil will saturate the wood and give it a "wet" look. I work a little oil into it with a rag once a day for 2 or 3 days. Letting it rest in between will let excess oil seem out. You dont want excess oil soaked into your pipe or it could seep into the bowl and damage the foundation of your cake. After those 2 or 3 days, I wipe it down it a dry rag a few times a day for 2 or 3 more days. Just to make sure any excess oil isn't trapped under my successive layers of finish. After that, tung oil. When used strategically, tung oil will give your pipe a "museum quality" look without the gross smell/taste of shellac/polyurethane. Under your usual coat of wax, it will make your pipe look freshly waxed even when it hasn't been for a while. Tung oiling is a long and annoying process though. You put a coat on and then use 0000 whool to buff it off. On, off. On, off. And don't forget breathe (thats a karate kid reference, of course being "karatekyle," i had to include it ). The tung oil will give it a good smooth finish that will allow the wax to accentuate the wood to a higher degree. Less microscopic dents and dings. It also acts as a flexible water seal. Moisture leaking into your pipe from tobacco will be deterred by mineral oil and tung oil both saturating the wood. You dont want water in your briar. It raises "rest time" in between smokes and increases the possibility of a fatal crack. After tung oiling, carauba wax. Buff it on with a buffing wheel then buff with a dry wheel. The final layer will make the outside of your pipe element-proof. The oils on your hands are acidic, carnauba wax helps protect the wood from that. After you're all done, you'll be left with a really pretty finish. One thats both beautiful and functional, the motto of all my pipe restorations!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

where do you get your carnauba wax ? locally ? online ? link if possible . Thanks

Pimo pipecraft will always be the first place I look for pipeworking stuff. They are a supplier dedicated to pipecrafting which is important in a world where pipe smoking is a declining art. I recommend everyone buy from them to keep their business alive and lucrative and to keep this hobby a possibility. Link is here. At the bottom of the page under "waxes" it has 2 oz. carnauba for sale.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

I think I've seen those questions before  Hopefully in a few months I can contribute knowledge.


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## SmokinSpider (May 12, 2010)

Kyle, I think this is a great idea, and hopefully a sticky will become of this. 

I havent seen you mention anything about them, so if you have not restored one I understand, But what can you tell me about meerschaum pipe restoration?


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## Senator (Feb 8, 2008)

Here's one....if you need to sand the top of the bowl due to very light charring...how do you refinish after? Will you need to sand the entire bowl and re-stain or can you simply spot stain the bowl top with good matching results?


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## pffintuff (Apr 20, 2011)

"You put a coat on and then use 0000 whool to buff it off. On, off. On, off."

This is getting complicated. So it's wax on, wax off, Karate Kid style ?

Just joking. Had to put that in there.


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## Andrewdk (Feb 3, 2011)

+1 to the OP, it's a great idea to accumulate all this knowledge in one thread. When I slid down the pipe slope and picked up some cheapies on ebay to restore I spent hours googling and on youtube. 

If I knew how to give out RG I'd bump you karatekyle but I still haven't worked it out.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Kyle, I think this is a great idea, and hopefully a sticky will become of this.

I havent seen you mention anything about them, so if you have not restored one I understand, But what can you tell me about meerschaum pipe restoration?

I'm glad you think so! And when it comes to meerschaum, I'm hopelessly confused. I know that you can use prefoaming shaving cream (not the gillette gels, more like barbasol for instance) to clean the outside. You use successive layers and gentle scrubbing and it will apparently take the crap off the outside. And I've heard with a meer you dont really want a cake. So on the inside, I've heard alcohol is the way to go. But I'm a pretty strict briar guy. I don't do cobs or meers. So the little bit I know might just be a totaly load of crap haha!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Here's one....if you need to sand the top of the bowl due to very light charring...how do you refinish after? Will you need to sand the entire bowl and re-stain or can you simply spot stain the bowl top with good matching results?

Well on pipes I smoke everyday, I stain the rim a little darker. This allows me to be a little less careful when I light. Plus it give all my pipes a neat two tone thing that is pretty unique. If you want it to match, stain then buff it down with 0000 steel wool until you're happy with the color match. If that isn't working too well for you, your last option is to start from scratch. CAREFULLY sand down to the bare wood. You'll want to use sandpaper at first. Go to an auto store and buy the highest grit you can find. The stuff they use for sanding paint on cars. After its sanded down, use an alcohol based stain like feibings. warm the pipe a bit, stain it, let it rest for a day or so to soak in, then buff it down. Keep doing that until you're happy with the color. Then finish whatever way you so choose!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

"You put a coat on and then use 0000 whool to buff it off. On, off. On, off."

This is getting complicated. So it's wax on, wax off, Karate Kid style ?

Just joking. Had to put that in there.

Haha why do you think I call myself "Karatekyle"??

I taught karate for a couple years. I was a 2 time undisputed flyweight and a 2 time bantamweight regional champion martial artist. I have multiple black belts in different karates and even two in taekwondo. This year has been the first year in a decade that I haven't really been very involved with karate teaching, competeing or training. Other than going through my forms every other day or so, I haven't done much at all!

And it all started when I saw the old Karate Kid for the first time. Mr. Miyagi inspired me that day in fifth grade and even still does when I see that movie!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

+1 to the OP, it's a great idea to accumulate all this knowledge in one thread. When I slid down the pipe slope and picked up some cheapies on ebay to restore I spent hours googling and on youtube.

If I knew how to give out RG I'd bump you karatekyle but I still haven't worked it out.

Haha well its the thought that counts, I'm glad this thread is helpful!

For future reference, on the side of the post where the avatar and user info is, there is a button at the bottom. The middle one. When you mouse over, it'll say "add to (username)'s reputation."

Hope this thread continues to help people!


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## jwreed81 (Jun 9, 2011)

Awesome post Kyle! As a newbie I've been hunting down this exact information myself, as you so well described. Nice to see your take, especially after you have seen all the other sites that I have been reading too.

Yesterday, I received 10 pipes I won on ebay [_First Pic_], four of them I had questions about restoring/repairing. I'm presently working on them. I was gonna post a new thread about them and asking for advice, but thought you should take first crack (haha bad joke) at these. Maybe you got a tip or too for me?

Mister Moo answered most of my *calabash* questions in another post - basically I understand to leave the bowl alone unless its caked, treat the stem as usual, and soak the gourd in alcohol and salt, then scrape gunk out... and pretty much nothin' else. I will clean the out side a bit though since mine has a little green crap stuck to the gourd and the bowl [_Calabash 4_].

I also got a *meerschaum lined briar* but it has a lot (for meer) of cake buildup inside the bowl. I have a reamer now, but have never used one. I little hesitant to remove my first cake off of meerschaum!:lol: Is there anything I should try instead or maybe practice on first? [_Meer Bowl 1-4_]

Now the more difficult questions for me concern a *Ben Wade* and a *Savinelli*, both are cracked. I am searching for a bit of info about them (being such a noob I don't know much more than Wikipedia about them), and whether they are fixable, how much should it cost to have them repaired, or if I should do it myself? [_Ben Wade & Savinelli pics_]

I wouldn't mind a great couple of smokers, especially if repairing them cost me less than new ones. Since I don't have any sentimentality for these pipes and not really looking for a resale, I'm thinking about doing the work myself and forgiving the blemishes/mistakes I make&#8230;unless these are something really worth fixing right :noidea:

The *Savinelli* is cracked from underneath the bowl around to the front rim, with the grain along the centerline of the pipe. Its a small crack, but looks like it is split thru at the rim, not sure about the bowl. Looks like it might have been fixed once? (_in the pic the ends of the crack have red arrows and there is a grey dotted line running ~.5" BENEATH the crack for identification purposes_)

The *Ben Wade* has a large crack running spanning the whole right side of the bowl from the shank to a bit past center, against the grain, running "horizontally" across the bowl. The crack is wide enough to fit a razor blade into. Must have been drooped hot or something cause this looks like a violent crack?

Sorry, hope this wasn't too long and made sense! Thanks a bunch! :tu

http://w15.photobucket.com/pbwidget.swf?pbwurl=http%3A%2F%2Fw15.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa390%2Fjwreed81%2F302dc73b.pbw</a>


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## CBR (Mar 31, 2010)

Good post, Kyle. I'm sure this'll be helpful to many prospective restorers.


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## jwreed81 (Jun 9, 2011)

:crash: errr...pic loading issues...couldn't edit anymore... just follow this link to my Photobucket Album


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Awesome post Kyle! As a newbie I've been hunting down this exact information myself, as you so well described. Nice to see your take, especially after you have seen all the other sites that I have been reading too. Thanks! I just love talking about pipe restoring. Its a big personal hobby of mine. Always more than happy to help! SorryI couldn't respond within the day, was busy as a bee last night!

Yesterday, I received 10 pipes I won on ebay [_First Pic_], four of them I had questions about restoring/repairing. I'm presently working on them. I was gonna post a new thread about them and asking for advice, but thought you should take first crack (haha bad joke) at these. Maybe you got a tip or too for me? VERY pretty pipes. Especially that ben wade. Can't wait to see them finished!! I'd love to give any pointers I can.

Mister Moo answered most of my *calabash* questions in another post - basically I understand to leave the bowl alone unless its caked, treat the stem as usual, and soak the gourd in alcohol and salt, then scrape gunk out... and pretty much nothin' else. I will clean the out side a bit though since mine has a little green crap stuck to the gourd and the bowl [_Calabash 4_]. I defer to Mister Moo on a calabash. I'm a briar guy, personally. No hands on experience with meer or calabash. It sounds like thats a pretty good game plan though. 

I also got a *meerschaum lined briar* but it has a lot (for meer) of cake buildup inside the bowl. I have a reamer now, but have never used one. I little hesitant to remove my first cake off of meerschaum!:lol: Is there anything I should try instead or maybe practice on first? [_Meer Bowl 1-4_]
One thing I will say about this project, dont ream a meer. You want grain alcohol and lots of it. Everclear. Rather than reaming, you want to dissolve it off. Use a rag and gently rub the cake with a everclear soaked rag then give it a good soak with the stuff. Repeat. If this doesn't work, use a dowel rod with high grit sandpaper wrapped on it. Usually I'm a large proponentof just using a sharp knife, but in this case, a knife or reamer could remove the meer too (or gouge it).

Now the more difficult questions for me concern a *Ben Wade* and a *Savinelli*, both are cracked. I am searching for a bit of info about them (being such a noob I don't know much more than Wikipedia about them), and whether they are fixable, how much should it cost to have them repaired, or if I should do it myself? [_Ben Wade & Savinelli pics_] I think you should always do it yourself, if possible. Its easy to send it somewhere and have them send it back brand new a week or so later. But you don't know what they did with it. Pipe restoration will teach you more about the pipe. It'll show you the grain at its best and at its worst. It turns these pipes into something you CAN be sentimental about.

I wouldn't mind a great couple of smokers, especially if repairing them cost me less than new ones. Since I don't have any sentimentality for these pipes and not really looking for a resale, I'm thinking about doing the work myself and forgiving the blemishes/mistakes I make&#8230;unless these are something really worth fixing right :noidea:
I think its all worth fixing right. So I'm hoping I can help you do that!

The *Savinelli* is cracked from underneath the bowl around to the front rim, with the grain along the centerline of the pipe. Its a small crack, but looks like it is split thru at the rim, not sure about the bowl. Looks like it might have been fixed once? (_in the pic the ends of the crack have red arrows and there is a grey dotted line running ~.5" BENEATH the crack for identification purposes_)
What I've hear you can do for hairline crack like that is superglue them. Now, this is going to involve a reshinish. You'll want to use acetone (or your material of choice) to remove the old carnauba finish and whatever else is on it. Then put a line of super glue down the crack. After letting that dry for a day or so, take 0000 grit steel wool (I do everything with this stuff!) and buff that area down. It should leave just the crack filled with the glue. Your other option is a wood filler. You'd do the same thing with that but make sure no alcohol or acetone get on the pipe afterwards. I'll dissolve the fill.

The *Ben Wade* has a large crack running spanning the whole right side of the bowl from the shank to a bit past center, against the grain, running "horizontally" across the bowl. The crack is wide enough to fit a razor blade into. Must have been drooped hot or something cause this looks like a violent crack? You have the same options here for repair. In both of these cases, if the crack actually goes into the pipe, you might have future smoking troubles until you build cake over it. I have pipes that have cracks in the rim and for a white they weren't great smokers. But the more cake over that crack you develop, the more and more it'll smoke like the crack isn't even there.

Sorry, hope this wasn't too long and made sense! Thanks a bunch! :tu
Always glad to help!!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Very cool idea, and a great community service.

Your advice to superglue cracks. . .it's good advice, I've done it on many restorations (filling the crack w/ briar dust before applying the superglue helps wick it deep in there and look less noticeable, too =D ).

My worry is that since you are talking to people who may not know any better, you might note the dangers of superglue coming into contact with direct heat. It's my understanding the results can be quite toxic. So we should only glue cracks that don't actually make it into the bowl.

I had no idea this was the case, thank you a ton Dave for your help! Luckily, I've never used this trick on a pipe with a deep enough crack but all you of that use this tip, take sure you use it safely!

PM-ing you instead of posting, because I didn't want you to feel undermined in your own thread. I think it's a great thing you're doing. Wish someone had put this together back when I started restoration work!

You'll never get a complaint from me! We all learn somehow. Most of my mistakes have, at the very worst, ruined an old pipe. Learning lessons with that as the very worst outcome is one thing, but when health is at risk (anymore than we already risk it by enjoying this wonderful leaf ) its much different. As I said before, please make sure if you're supergluing, use it wisely. If theres any chance it might be too deep, go with woodglue or fill! You can still smoke an imperfect pipe, you can't smoke if you're sick!

And as always, I'm so glad this thread is helpful! Keep those questions coming, maybe I'll get a sticky!!

Best, 
Dave


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## Exille (Mar 7, 2011)

Quick question, my first estate pipe i received earlier is a Peterson Tankard which was already restored by a popular E-tailer which i also immediately smoked a bowl of Dunhill EMP out of, smoked great but before smoking and after smoking there was an odor left that reeked of a really nauseating burning rubber smell which i have never experienced before....how can i get rid of the smell? or should i just continue to smoke out of it in hopes of burning away whatever was left over in the bowl after restoration?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Quick question, my first estate pipe i received earlier is a Peterson Tankard which was already restored by a popular E-tailer which i also immediately smoked a bowl of Dunhill EMP out of, smoked great but before smoking and after smoking there was an odor left that reeked of a really nauseating burning rubber smell which i have never experienced before....how can i get rid of the smell? or should i just continue to smoke out of it in hopes of burning away whatever was left over in the bowl after restoration?

Nauseating burning rubber you say? Sounds like my first experience with latakia! Hahaha kidding of course, I'm sure thats not the case. What I would recommend is the salt treatment. Sometimes those restored pipes have been restored a little more recently and haven't had a time to release all the fumes or residues from whatever they cleaned with. This is one thing you'll be able to find pretty readily. Jump on youtube and type it in, if you have any troubles, I'll be happy to explain on here as well!


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

That was my first thought; "stop smoking latakia". 

Have you found a way to clean tar buildup off the rim without having to go through a total refinishing job?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

That was my first thought; "stop smoking latakia". 

Have you found a way to clean tar buildup off the rim without having to go through a total refinishing job?

While I do prefer to use acetone and pull the entire finish off then refinish, you also can use a rag and some spit. Another option is just redoing the rim. Using a qtip, acetone, and some careful rag rubbing, you can take the finish off the rim then rewax just that area. If thats not an option, a bit of saliva and an old rag will do the trip. Spit on the rag and use a nice bit of elbow grease and the tar and junk will come right off!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Here's a recent project of mine for a friend. He's a big LOTR fan but wanted something a little more functional than a churchwarden. I restored a nice little zulu for him; it reminded him a lot of the clay pipes the old hobbit men smoke and the one Aragorn has.

A little before and after...








and...


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

No more questions guys?? C'mon, I know someone out there has something to say!!


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## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> No more questions guys?? C'mon, I know someone out there has something to say!!


I've got one: Some of the "Pro" repair-people say they are able to transfer stamps on replacement stems. I can't, for the life of me, imagine how they'd do that. Aside from having spare Sav or Pete metal stamps around.

Also, do you know what material is usually used to color a stem stamp? I know the dots are often lucite rod. . .drill a tiny hole, insert rod, trim, sand--recent Dunhills and older Saseini do this to great effect. But what about the plain white "paint" in a stem stamp? Like the Savinelli crown stamp, or the Peterson "p". Is it just some kind of paint? Some other material?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

I've got one: Some of the "Pro" repair-people say they are able to transfer stamps on replacement stems. I can't, for the life of me, imagine how they'd do that. Aside from having spare Sav or Pete metal stamps around.

I've head of this as well. I had some trouble refurbing a stem a while back (HEAVILY oxidized) but I wanted to keep the markings. A few people I emailed said if you're really serious about keeping the markings, use a little bit of clay and push it into the stamped area. I tried it and gave up. Its quite tough and takes a few tries and patience. After the clay dries, you're supposed to warm the area on the stem you're looking to stamp (zippo lighter or heat gun) then use your homemade clay stamp. I'm sure the really serious restoreers could have a small metal stamp made if they have to do it a lot.

Also, do you know what material is usually used to color a stem stamp? I know the dots are often lucite rod. . .drill a tiny hole, insert rod, trim, sand--recent Dunhills and older Saseini do this to great effect. But what about the plain white "paint" in a stem stamp? Like the Savinelli crown stamp, or the Peterson "p". Is it just some kind of paint? Some other material?

A lot of times when I'm cleaning my stems, that white paint will come off. Usually its set into the stem in a depressed stamp or something. What I do when I'm done cleaning is take whiteout/liquid paper/white paint (all have worked wonderfully) and paint a blob of sorts onto the area. After much trying, go back and polish the pipe in that area. It will leave the paint that isn't flush with the surface (ie the paint in the stamp). Just to give it a really professional job, I like to do another quick coat over it with a drop of polyurethane or some other wood finish. Then polish the excess off and wax and polish the whole stem. You'll be left with a pretty white detailed stamp that won't be in any hurry to flake or chip off.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Working on turning a pretty Gardesana H.I.S. into a dress pipe. Removing finish so far has been a pain. I'll post pictures when its done, its a nice rusticated saddle bit billiard. It'll look great all black and shiny!


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

I have almost completed 2 of the 8 pipes. Both are/were almost complete except for the final polishing with carnuba (which is in the mail). 

One of them, the Kaywoodie Carburetor, still has a trace of an odor coming from both the bit and the bowl. After 3 salt treatments on the bowl and tons of alcohol, magic erasers, and polishing on the stem I am still detecting a "musty" smell. I cannot bleach the stem since the "tenon" is metal, so I am thinking of trying to sand it down a bit more and do some spot bleach treatment on the mouthpiece and use 151 inside. For the bowl, I am considering the "aquarium carbon in the oven technique". Any suggestions? 

The other pipe will be ready to smoke in a few days after I let it dry out for a few more days and apply the final carnuba. Really the only hiccup with this one was that it is deeply rusticated so there was a ton of build upin the nooks and crannies. The final technique that worked was actually goof off. 

By the way, I absolutely find great joy in reaming the bowl with my knife, a small pick, rat tail file and 600 grit sandpaper. And considering only 2 of the 4 bowls that I have reamed are normal shapes, I am not sure I will be buying any reamer. Thanks for the tip!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

jader said:


> I have almost completed 2 of the 8 pipes. Both are/were almost complete except for the final polishing with carnuba (which is in the mail).
> 
> One of them, the Kaywoodie Carburetor, still has a trace of an odor coming from both the bit and the bowl. After 3 salt treatments on the bowl and tons of alcohol, magic erasers, and polishing on the stem I am still detecting a "musty" smell. I cannot bleach the stem since the "tenon" is metal, so I am thinking of trying to sand it down a bit more and do some spot bleach treatment on the mouthpiece and use 151 inside. For the bowl, I am considering the "aquarium carbon in the oven technique". Any suggestions?
> 
> ...


Honestly I've always throught the best way to get the old smell out is put a new smell in. I find that the salt and alcohol treatment (or the alcohol retort treatment, something you may want to look into as well) takes a little flavor out of the pipe. The reason pipes don't smoke well at first is because they have no cake. The cake helps mellow the flavor of what you're smoking as well as protect the bowl. Many swear by caking a bowl with PA or CH. Thats because it leaves a good amount of sugar in your bowl. As you smoke the pipe, that sweetness will come through in the smoke. Now I'm about to give you advice that could mean expulsion from the "cigar side" indefinitely...

ACID cigars.

Horrifying, right? Wedge an ACID kuba kuba in your pipe. As shallow as possible. Commence smoking. I have a medico I did this with. It was wayyy old. Smelled absolutely terrible. I tried it with a normal cigar, no luck. Decided "what the heck, It'll be a aro pipe anyway, I'll try it with an ACID." The cigar smoke re-flavors the inside and gives it a decent ghost to cover the pipes musty smell. ACID will leave a little sugar in as well. Now yes, there will be a ghost. Yes, you will taste ACID cigars for your first few smokes after. The trick is to wipe the inside down with a dry paper towel after the pipe dries and cools. Less noticable ghost.

Try it with a normal medium/mild bodied cigar first. It will taste like cigar but it will cover old weird mustiness with a tobacco flavor. If that doesn't sound do-able, just smoke the pipe with something strong. After 10 or so smokes, you'll never be able to tell the difference. But I stand by my cigar-in-pipe cleaning method. I find that it works great and adds a slight flavor to my pipe that I tend to really enjoy for that first few smokes.

Glad you enjoy that hand-reaming! Frankly, I think its a just plain better way to ream. Better end product. And it doesn't hurt that it makes the project a lot more personal. I just reamed a dress pipe I'm making last night! Doesn't look to shabby if I do say so myself :humble:


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Kyle, Thanks for the input. I may try the cigar method but I feel it maybe limited to pipes that I intend to keep. 

My thoughts with your method is it does not necessarily fix the problem, it just masks them. Not that I intend to sell any of the pipes I am restoring right now. In the future, after I build up skills, I would not mind selling the occasional refurb to help supplement my spending habits. I know if I was buying a used pipe from someone that was reconditioned, I would be highly disappointed if there was any odor coming from the pipe, be it tobacco, must/mildew, or anything else that smells. 

After a bit more research, I see multiple references to getting the musty smell out by filling the bowl 1/2 full with alcohol then burning it off. Anyone have an opinion on this?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

jader said:


> Kyle, Thanks for the input. I may try the cigar method but I feel it maybe limited to pipes that I intend to keep.
> 
> My thoughts with your method is it does not necessarily fix the problem, it just masks them. Not that I intend to sell any of the pipes I am restoring right now. In the future, after I build up skills, I would not mind selling the occasional refurb to help supplement my spending habits. I know if I was buying a used pipe from someone that was reconditioned, I would be highly disappointed if there was any odor coming from the pipe, be it tobacco, must/mildew, or anything else that smells.
> 
> After a bit more research, I see multiple references to getting the musty smell out by filling the bowl 1/2 full with alcohol then burning it off. Anyone have an opinion on this?


I'm afraid thats probably true. I'm a pipe packrat, never sold one I've refurbed. The burning method is a sort of a different way to do the alcohol retort. As far as alcohol goes, go for the retort. Its the supreme way of cleaning a pipe. You'll find tonsss of videos online of how to retort a pipe. If anything could get the mustiness out, its the retort.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Thanks Kyle, I really like the idea of the retort, one of the things I am finding I hate to do is clean the shank and inside bit, as its just a bit PITA. I swear with the number of pipe cleaners I have used on these two pipes alone, I could probably justify the $22. 

On a side note, I switched from Irish whiskey to 91% Isopropyl alcohol. I was going to wait until my second set of pipes, but figured maybe the salt treatment with the higher alcohol content would work to clean up this ghost. Oh, I also found someone that was using cotton balls instead of salt for their sweetening treatment. Have you tried this?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

jader said:


> Thanks Kyle, I really like the idea of the retort, one of the things I am finding I hate to do is clean the shank and inside bit, as its just a bit PITA. I swear with the number of pipe cleaners I have used on these two pipes alone, I could probably justify the $22.
> 
> On a side note, I switched from Irish whiskey to 91% Isopropyl alcohol. I was going to wait until my second set of pipes, but figured maybe the salt treatment with the higher alcohol content would work to clean up this ghost. Oh, I also found someone that was using cotton balls instead of salt for their sweetening treatment. Have you tried this?


I always use salt. Picking all the little pieces of cotton out of the bowl is the very definition of a PITA. Also, go for pure grain ethanol. EverClear. Isopropyl, even 91%, seems to just not work as well as ethanol. 91 iso will be better than irish whisky but if you're still having problems, try out that everclear. Everclear will work with a retort as well so if you _still _have problems after that, try out the retort with a bit of that ethanol.

I find retorts funny. Its like your pipe gets a little taste of what college is like. (The everclear goes in, then the everclear comes out. Repeat.)


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Best I can get here in florida is 151, no high grade Everclear.


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## JD11 (Aug 21, 2008)

How does 99% isopropryl alcohol (use for cleaning Fiber Optics) compare to ethanol ?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

JD11 said:


> How does 99% isopropryl alcohol (use for cleaning Fiber Optics) compare to ethanol ?


Never actually used 99% iso. Always just stuck with EverClear when I need it.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

I tried using the Isopropyl Alcohol method since i cannot get the 190 proof liquor in Florida. I really like its cleaning power over 80 proof liquor. It removed gunk that standard 80 proof did not penetrate. Unfortunately, the taste of 2 pipes I smoked were horrendous. Some of it was related to the Isopropyl and some may be because of a residual musty smell still in the pipes after my cotton ball/alcohol treatments. I ended up putting two pipes in the stove with some carbon last night to see if that removes the bad flavor. One was not smoked out of yet, and the other was. Any smells are gone, so lets see how they taste. 

If this ends up working, my de-ghosting method may still use the 91% Isopropyl Alcohol with the carbon/heating as the final touch. I would rather have a method that leaves behind no flavor, rather then imparting the 151 vodka (yes I can taste the vodka flavor) or 151 rum. 

As for polishing, i was very happy with the way things came out. I took some pictures after the final buffing. Unfortunately, I do not have before pics, and now I have to re-apply carnuba after heating the pipes . 

On the next round, one of my main focuses will be to remove all teeth marks from the stem. I did an OK job with the initial pipes, but they were not perfect. I think starting off with a 220 grit sanding instead of 600 grit will work out well. 

For the stems, I was thinking about trying the bleaching method for sanitation purpose as well. 
Has anyone tried bleaching the stems first to remove the heavy oxidation? 
If so, do you still clean the airway with alcohol/pipe cleaners before you start or does the bleach handle that? 
I do know that i have to cover up any painted markings with Vaseline, but do I also do this for etched/stamped markings?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Never really done a whole lot with stem bleaching. Lets get some other minds in here too, any one else have advice they can add??


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## caskwith (Apr 10, 2006)

I used to bleach stems, but found it isnt really all the necessary as you to remove oxidation you still need to sand or scrap. A quick soak for hygiene reasons however is not a bad idea and it does serve to soften the oxidation somewhat. Wet and dry sandpaper in around 400 grit is good for heavy oxidation removal followed by 1000grit and a buffer. Also a scraper is good for getting rid of the worse followed by the 400, 1000 and buffer. If you dont have a buffer then micromesh is your answer.


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## cp478 (Oct 23, 2008)

Mr Clean magic erasers work great on the oxidation. I tried the bleach and didnt find it necessary. I use the magic erasers and some pipe sweetener or alchohol.


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## caskwith (Apr 10, 2006)

cp478 said:


> Mr Clean magic erasers work great on the oxidation. I tried the bleach and didnt find it necessary. I use the magic erasers and some pipe sweetener or alchohol.


They are very good and don't leave deep scratches however I find they are not abrasive enough to remove deep oxidation and they can be very slow. You still need to buff afterwards as well if you want a shiny stem.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

I've heard magic erasers work for mild oxidation as well, might have to try that. As far as buffing stems, what do you guys use? I know carnauba was is an obvious answer. What about toothpaste? I use that a lot now. Toothpaste on a rag and buff it onto the stem. Its an ulta fine abrasive that takes the stem to a really nice shine before you put wax on it. 

And thanks for your help guys, any other questions out there?


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

I tried the magic eraser and that worked fine as well. But yesterday I did try bleaching and i have to say I actually prefer to any other method. I think it gets the oxidation off nicely and then the stem is just left to do some sanding. I did a 225 grit, followed by 660 grit, then some Tripoli on the wheel. I think the best part about the whole process, I did not have to spend and hour getting buildup from the inside of the stem. Once the pipe is done with its alcohol treatment, then I will finish up the stem with white diamond and carnuba. 

On a bad note, I did crack break off a piece of the the tenon doing some thing stupid with pliers. Since this was a Savinelli, I thought that it had a removable insert like my others. Unfortunately that was not the case, ergo the crack.The good news is the pipe will still be usable and I learned my lesson.


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## jfsully (Jul 28, 2011)

To first clean the stems, I've used oxclean and it seems to do a great job and doesn't "eat into" the stem like bleach does.

recently I added lemon juice (not sure why). The acidic nature seemed to boost the oxyclean performance.

Any thoughts?


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Rez'ing your thread, Kyle. I know its not about briars, but...

I bought a couple of Falcons on eBay for cheap to play with and make shiny. 

Both bowls look like they could use a little reaming and some cleaning, but not in bad shape. The metal on one is yellowed, the other is just dull. 

I was planning on doing a cottonball/Everclear treatment on them, then separating the bowls to clean further, using pipe cleaners and Everclear down the stem, and then polishing/buffing the outside of the metal stem. Toothpaste and then carnuba on the mouthpieces, and a buff on the outside of the bowls too.

Oh yes, I know the mouthpieces do not come off, and I will reattach the bowls carefully so not to cross the threads.

Having no experience with Falcons or any other metal pipes, I thought I'd ask here first, and make sure that all this checks out for Falcons. I did some searches, but I didn't find too much info on restoring them, more about maintaining them.

My two lingering questions are:
1. I read on one thread here about using a metal safe cleaner, chemprol. Does this mean a cottonball/Everclear treatment is not metal safe?

2. Is there something special I should use to buff/clean the outside of metal stem?

And anything else I don't know? :lol:


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

The Mad Professor said:


> Rez'ing your thread, Kyle. I know its not about briars, but...
> 
> I bought a couple of Falcons on eBay for cheap to play with and make shiny.
> 
> ...


Ahh falcons are too cool! Nice find!

To answer your questions, if its one of the falcons you can detach the bowl, I would recommend trying the everclear on the detached briar bowl. I think everclear on metal is fine. For an added help, mix a dot of brasso with your toothpaste. Its a little more abrasive and will cut some time off the process. A couple rounds of just toothpaste after that will give you a beautiful shine. This is the process I use on all of my silver/metal parts on my pipes.

Some examples:









A grungy grabow I received as a gift (Thanks Jeff!!). The band isn't silver. It took a few once-overs with toothpaste and brasso but she's shinin' now!









Here's the opposite side of the spectrum. A nicer pipe with a sterling silver band. Can't tell because it's much smaller but it gleams like its brand new.


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## jfdiii (Nov 12, 2010)

On my falcon stem I soaked it in alcohol then used a dremel (since it's metal) and some jewelers polish. It gave it a mirror shine and looks brand new.


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## Piper1 (Aug 16, 2011)

Kyle, with all your restoration knowledge, I was wondering if you could take a look at the thread "EPS. Need help identifying a pipe." in the new puffer forum and give any insight?


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Thank you very much Kyle and Joe. Just the answers I was looking for! 

I have to hold off on the urge to start cleaning them now, since I'm headed to the racetrack tomorrow for the weekend. I'll start cleaning them Monday or Tues and I'll post some pictures too. 

I also have some other pipe cleaning projects going on: 
I have a calabash that I am cleaning that had some mold "issues" inside of it, a second calabash on the way that will need some love, and a third calabash that is broken that I will try my hand at repairing. I also have at least one briar to restore, and the rest of my briars could use a stem cleaning too. So I got my work cut out for me!


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## pyxistort (Jul 13, 2009)

Thank you for sharing your experience about restore estate pipes. I am working on some of the estate pipes I got a while back. It took me so long to just work on a small part of each pipe cause I was so afraid that I would destroy a such wonderful pipe. However, more the information I read, I feel more confident. Thank you!!!


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## JD11 (Aug 21, 2008)

Just got a 1 oz jar of paragon wax today , besides use only on smooth pipes . apply , let haze and then buff with soft cloth . any tips or tricks ? i heard its good for vulcanite stems too . any experience with that ?


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

Great stuff here...as I am expecting a few pipes from another BOTL...as a trade...to restore! I see some great tips here!

Speaking of tips...thats the one area I want to focus on the most...as the pipes coming will need some major buffing done. Also, one of the pipes has a very discolored stem...any suggestions here (point me to a post #) or thoughts on getting the stems/tips back to their glory?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

pyxistort said:


> Thank you for sharing your experience about restore estate pipes. I am working on some of the estate pipes I got a while back. It took me so long to just work on a small part of each pipe cause I was so afraid that I would destroy a such wonderful pipe. However, more the information I read, I feel more confident. Thank you!!!


Absolutely!! The hardest part is doing the first pipe. The thing is, briar is hard. Smoking, restoring, cleaning, breaking in... it all takes obscene amounts of time. Remember that one thing. It's gunna take forever. Don't rush. It might take 100 coats of toothpaste to shine your stem up, let it! If you need to sand finish off, it will take a lot of time and sandpaper. Take your time and go slow and steady. You'll be much happier with the end result.



JD11 said:


> Just got a 1 oz jar of paragon wax today , besides use only on smooth pipes . apply , let haze and then buff with soft cloth . any tips or tricks ? i heard its good for vulcanite stems too . any experience with that ?


I'm a huge proponent of using different things on the stummel. I LOVE oil finishing a natural colored pipe. But as for the stem, I would still recommend a final coat of carnauba. It seems to leave a much glassier and stronger finish.



quo155 said:


> Great stuff here...as I am expecting a few pipes from another BOTL...as a trade...to restore! I see some great tips here!
> 
> Speaking of tips...thats the one area I want to focus on the most...as the pipes coming will need some major buffing done. Also, one of the pipes has a very discolored stem...any suggestions here (point me to a post #) or thoughts on getting the stems/tips back to their glory?


I've heard a Mr Clean magic eraser works pretty well in a pinch. Otherwise, bar keepers friend. Bleach baths are an option but the sanding and buffing required after you soak them is a pain. I use that as a last resort option. Also, toothpaste buffing. I don't know if I've said anything specific about that yet but I love it. It gives the stem the most amazing shine and finish and carnauba on top of that makes them look like a mirror. Put a little paste (not gel or anything fancy, just normal old fashioned white paste) on a rag and buff it onto the stem. Repeat as many times as desired. No water needed. The ultra fine abrasive in toothpaste will make it almost impossible to tell the difference from lucite if you do it well enough.

And to any of you guys looking do start restoring these things, one tip to get a really nice final product:

I always give extra attention to making sure everything is super smooth. Fills can be hidden, stems can be bleached, char can be removed. But if the final product isn't satin to the touch, you'll still be able to tell the difference between your pipe and a professionally produced one. Grab the highest grit paper you can find and ultra fine steel wool. Until I can close my eyes and find myself unable to feel the difference between a waxed pipe and the unfinished one I'm working on, I'm not done sanding. You won't regret the extra time this takes.


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> I've heard a Mr Clean magic eraser works pretty well in a pinch. Otherwise, bar keepers friend. Bleach baths are an option but the sanding and buffing required after you soak them is a pain. I use that as a last resort option. Also, toothpaste buffing. I don't know if I've said anything specific about that yet but I love it. It gives the stem the most amazing shine and finish and carnauba on top of that makes them look like a mirror. Put a little paste (not gel or anything fancy, just normal old fashioned white paste) on a rag and buff it onto the stem. Repeat as many times as desired. No water needed. The ultra fine abrasive in toothpaste will make it almost impossible to tell the difference from lucite if you do it well enough.
> 
> And to any of you guys looking do start restoring these things, one tip to get a really nice final product:
> 
> I always give extra attention to making sure everything is super smooth. Fills can be hidden, stems can be bleached, char can be removed. But if the final product isn't satin to the touch, you'll still be able to tell the difference between your pipe and a professionally produced one. Grab the highest grit paper you can find and ultra fine steel wool. Until I can close my eyes and find myself unable to feel the difference between a waxed pipe and the unfinished one I'm working on, I'm not done sanding. You won't regret the extra time this takes.


Awesome...thank you Kyle! When I get these in...I will see what type of stem it has, do some more digging (on Puff) and get to work to restore them for my own use...and smooth as a baby behind!


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## pyxistort (Jul 13, 2009)

I read something a while back about homemade carnauba polishing paste. It's required some kind of double boiling to mix carnauba wax with other ingredients. It sounds easier than using buffing wheel. Have you tried something similiar? Thank you!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

pyxistort said:


> I read something a while back about homemade carnauba polishing paste. It's required some kind of double boiling to mix carnauba wax with other ingredients. It sounds easier than using buffing wheel. Have you tried something similiar? Thank you!


Double boiling wax? It might be cheaper but it doesn't sound easier at all. All you have to do to is take a block of carnauba, put it against the buffer wheel, then put the pipe on the wheel. Cooking up a paste to use seems a little more mad sciencey than I would be inclined to try. If you do run across that recipe though, post it on here. Or try it out! Tell us how it works. Maybe I'm wrong and it'll end up being way better!


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## pyxistort (Jul 13, 2009)

karatekyle said:


> Double boiling wax? It might be cheaper but it doesn't sound easier at all. All you have to do to is take a block of carnauba, put it against the buffer wheel, then put the pipe on the wheel. Cooking up a paste to use seems a little more mad sciencey than I would be inclined to try. If you do run across that recipe though, post it on here. Or try it out! Tell us how it works. Maybe I'm wrong and it'll end up being way better!


I don't have buffing wheel, so it will be easier for me polish the pipe with the paste, just like hand polishing a car. :heh: 
Actually, after I observed my wife double boiling chocolate and cheese, it is not difficult. Let me see if I can find the recipe.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

quo155 said:


> Awesome...thank you Kyle! When I get these in...I will see what type of stem it has, do some more digging (on Puff) and get to work to restore them for my own use...and smooth as a baby behind!


Post some pictures on here too! I'd love to see what you're working with!


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

pyxistort said:


> I don't have buffing wheel, so it will be easier for me polish the pipe with the paste, just like hand polishing a car. :heh:
> Actually, after I observed my wife double boiling chocolate and cheese, it is not difficult. Let me see if I can find the recipe.


Double boiling isn't difficult, it's the cleanup of the crap that gets double boiled that is the PITA! :yuck:

I don't have access to a true buffing wheel either, so I took another BOTL's advice and bought a small cylindrical buffing wheel (2" dia, 3" long, $3 at Harbor-Freight) that I can chuck into my cordless drill. Put a zip tie on the trigger and either clamp it down or hold between your knees, and you have a great little pipe buffer.

Scraping dried wax off your wife's double boiler doesn't sound healthy to one's marriage, so I would get another double boiler if you try this method. :lol:


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> Post some pictures on here too! I'd love to see what you're working with!


I will for sure...it may be a while before I get to start on them...have to get my shop in order since I just moved...but looking forward to it!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Bought a pipe right out of a display the other day. An Erik Nording. Walked home grinning thinking "Ahh. Finally a pipe I'll never have to take a tool to. Brand spanking new." Until I realized a few hours later the stem was crooked by less than a millimeter. After a little ultrafine sandpaper, it's finally 100% perfect!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

A little bump for anyone thinking about a pipe restoration. Question and I shall answer! Albeit tothe best of my ability. Smoked my first bowl of LBF from a pipe I re-stained tonight. Mmmm! Cool, dry, and beautifully delicious smelling.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

A little :bump: for anyone looking for restoration help!


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## pipinho (Aug 27, 2011)

Ive noticed that when i ream the cake down to the wood + salt alchol + alchol burn the bowl that the smoke tastes woody. Will it go away after i start building a cake back up?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

pipinho said:


> Ive noticed that when i ream the cake down to the wood + salt alchol + alchol burn the bowl that the smoke tastes woody. Will it go away after i start building a cake back up?


Absolutely it will. Basically, the first couple layers of cake cauterize the wood. After you get enough cake to fully cover your bowl interior, you won't taste that woody flavor anymore.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

This isn't really a restoration question, but more of a maintenance question&#8230; but I think this would be a good place to ask it. How and what should I use to keep my pipes shiny? I have some that have dulled over time and I would like to bring them back to their original shine&#8230; any ideas or suggestions?


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## pipinho (Aug 27, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> Absolutely it will. Basically, the first couple layers of cake cauterize the wood. After you get enough cake to fully cover your bowl interior, you won't taste that woody flavor anymore.


do you think that it's a good idea to cake to the wood/salt+alcohol/alcohol burn or should i keep the cake? I did all that because the pipes clearly haven't been cleaned in ages and had so much nasty cake in them. And what do you use to clean the outside of pipes? I know that murpheys soap is used but do you use a brush, washcloth, ect?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> This isn't really a restoration question, but more of a maintenance question&#8230; but I think this would be a good place to ask it. How and what should I use to keep my pipes shiny? I have some that have dulled over time and I would like to bring them back to their original shine&#8230; any ideas or suggestions?


The three things I really like to use are mineral oil, white petroleum jelly, and carnauba wax. All for different situations.


Older estate pipe you're restoring? Give it a buff down with carnauba wax.
Been smoking it a lot lately and it needs a little shine? Grab a rag and buff some petroleum jelly (vaseline) on.
Got a good layer of carnauba but needs a "pop" of shine for a picture or have a display pipe you want to stay looking good up on a shelf? A rag with mineral oil will make it display worthy.
Carnauba wax should be your base layer. Vaseline doesn't last long but it prevents oxidation on vulcanite stems of pipes you're currently smoking and makes your carnauba waxings less frequent on the stummel. Makes the finish last longer essentially. Mineral oil waterproofs the outside and makes it look shiny as polyurethane. But it comes off easily when handled. It (or real tung oil) can also be used in place of carnauba to give the pipe a "matte" or oil finish.

So thats a quick outline of what I use as finish in some different situations!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

pipinho said:


> do you think that it's a good idea to cake to the wood/salt+alcohol/alcohol burn or should i keep the cake? I did all that because the pipes clearly haven't been cleaned in ages and had so much nasty cake in them. And what do you use to clean the outside of pipes? I know that murpheys soap is used but do you use a brush, washcloth, ect?


There are definitely some pipes I ream down to bare wood and re-cake. But in a lot of cases, leaving just a little bit of cake and then building cake over that will give you the same quality as any other reaming method. Take it down slightly less than a dimes width then build it back to dime thickness in the future. After that, go through a break in process. Either

A) Smoke bowls all the way from top to heel
or
B) Smoke 1/3 bowls to develop cake in heel then smoke full bowls

This will cover up that old weird cake while still protecting the briar from the burning tobacco.

If I'm actually cleaning something off of my pipe, I use breath (like you do when you clean [sun]glasses) and an electronics cloth. Those microfiber ones for your touch screens and stuff. Soap will put chemical stress on the carnauba finish of the pipe and lots of water or wiping with towels will put mechanical stress on it. Something gentle is what you want. Briar is naturally inclined to oils though. The oils in your hands and body are caustic and will eat away at the carnauba finish (hence the need to clean) but something like mineral oil will not. So after I smoke, I grab an old sock and some mineral oil and give it a quick rub down.

Look for mineral oil in your supermarket pharmacy section, over the counter. It is used as a laxative as well.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> The three things I really like to use are mineral oil, white petroleum jelly, and carnauba wax. All for different situations.
> 
> 
> Older estate pipe you're restoring? Give it a buff down with carnauba wax.
> ...


Hmm ok, so it sounds like the 2 options I would go for are the white petroleum jelly and carnauba wax. So for the Vaseline I assume the actual Vaseline brand that I can get at Walmart is fine, right? Also I assume I dont want to use car carnauba wax, so what do you recomend, and where can I get it?


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

Nick S. said:


> Hmm ok, so it sounds like the 2 options I would go for are the white petroleum jelly and carnauba wax. So for the Vaseline I assume the actual Vaseline brand that I can get at Walmart is fine, right? Also I assume I dont want to use car carnauba wax, so what do you recomend, and where can I get it?


Also, do you recommend using carnauba wax for rusticated and sandblasted pipes as well? I have noticed different products sold for smooth vs non smooth finishes.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> Hmm ok, so it sounds like the 2 options I would go for are the white petroleum jelly and carnauba wax. So for the Vaseline I assume the actual Vaseline brand that I can get at Walmart is fine, right? Also I assume I dont want to use car carnauba wax, so what do you recomend, and where can I get it?





Nick S. said:


> Also, do you recommend using carnauba was for rusticated and sandblasted pipes as well? I have noticed different products sold for smooth vs non smooth finishes.


I like Pimo pipe craft for carnauba wax blocks, here. Yes, most rusticated pipes are waxed as well but you have to buff them down again afterwards really well, to get the excess wax off since it gets in all the nooks and crannies.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> I like Pimo pipe craft for carnauba wax blocks, here. Yes, most rusticated pipes are waxed as well but you have to buff them down again afterwards really well, to get the excess wax off since it gets in all the nooks and crannies.


Thanks!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> Thanks!


Absolutely! Happy to help. Don't hesitate to come back in the future with anything else that comes to mind! I love this thread!


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## pipinho (Aug 27, 2011)

i have a pipe that is "flaked" on the outside of the bowl, looks like it got scraped with a kife or something. Should i sand it down, stain it, then wax it?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

pipinho said:


> i have a pipe that is "flaked" on the outside of the bowl, looks like it got scraped with a kife or something. Should i sand it down, stain it, then wax it?


Some pipes are finished with a laquer of some sort like polyurethane or shellac. After lots up heat ups and cool downs, the finish buckles and flakes like this. I would recommend stripping it down to briar and refinishing. I would probably not recommend sanding. The reason for this is, sanding turns into a costly and time intensive undertaking for a pipe. You need lots of different grit papers (many of them are pricey "specialty" grit stuff you have to order, few places carry it) and it takes two eternities to sand a pipe to the point where people won't notice it wasn't professionally done. I would recommend stripping the finish (I prefer to use acetone), restaining from there if needed/desired (make sure you use stain for pipes, not minwax or something you find in a hardware store), and then rewaxing the pipe. You'll like the end result a lot better.


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## pipinho (Aug 27, 2011)

flaked was a bad word, looks like it was scraped or scratched... hmm...


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

pipinho said:


> flaked was a bad word, looks like it was scraped or scratched... hmm...


Ahh. Well then no such luck, my friend haha. You'll have to sand and re-stain. You'll want to start by using something around 600 grit to take the scratch out, depending on how deep (the deeper the scratch, the lower the grit # you use. I don't recomment going below 350-400 though, that will take a lot of wood off really quick.)

From there, go through the grits all the way up to around 6000-8000. I go:

~600
800
ultrafine steel wool (four aught, 0000)
2000
4000
~8000
Be very light with the wool though, 0000 wool is technically equivalent to 600 grit paper. So pushing hard will just be going backwards. The reason I use it there is because it evens out any scratches left from the 600 and 800 grit stuff. A light buff will make the x000 grit papers more functional.

From there, grab some stain (leather dye, typically) and stain and buff the spot until it matches the rest of the pipe. Experiment. Once all of that is done, a good coat of carnauba and you're golden!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

[No message]


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## User Name (Feb 11, 2011)

That grabow looks good to go!


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Back again Kyle. So I finally finished up cleaning those two Falcons I've had sitting around for months now (I was also cleaning a cheap briar too). I had a re-occurance of an issue with the wood finish. I don't have pics presently, but can get around to taking them tomorrow or the next if they are necessary.

In short, I am having trouble getting a good finish back on the pipe where the Everclear has spilled over the bowl and I assume stripped the finish off. Now as I reapply carnuba wax, that "unfinished" spot will not shine up (stays dull) and is lighter in color then the rest of the briar. While the carnuba is "wet" the pipe looks normal, but after buffing it still has discoloration.

Any ideas on rectifying this problem?

Thanks Kyle!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

The Mad Professor said:


> Back again Kyle. So I finally finished up cleaning those two Falcons I've had sitting around for months now (I was also cleaning a cheap briar too). I had a re-occurance of an issue with the wood finish. I don't have pics presently, but can get around to taking them tomorrow or the next if they are necessary.
> 
> In short, I am having trouble getting a good finish back on the pipe where the Everclear has spilled over the bowl and I assume stripped the finish off. Now as I reapply carnuba wax, that "unfinished" spot will not shine up (stays dull) and is lighter in color then the rest of the briar. While the carnuba is "wet" the pipe looks normal, but after buffing it still has discoloration.
> 
> ...


Unfortunately, it sounds like your best bet will be a full refinish. Sometimes ethanol will take just the wax off but because the stain is alcohol soluable, it may wick some of the color out. Give the whole stummel a good wipe down with alcohol, get the whole thing down to wood. From there, you can rewax (you'll be left with a slightly lighter colored pipe) or you can darken it with a coat of stain. Feibings is what I prefer (needs to be alcohol soluable stain, like leather stain). Once its the color you want it to be, wax away! You're golden!


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> Sometimes ethanol will take just the wax off but because the stain is alcohol soluable, it may wick some of the color out


You are awesome! :tu:

Thanks bro!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

The Mad Professor said:


> You are awesome! :tu:
> 
> Thanks bro!


My pleasure Joe, anytime!


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> Post some pictures on here too! I'd love to see what you're working with!


I still haven't got around to 'restoring" any pipes yet. I have many to restore now and a few that I just need to spend some time on to get them clean and usable...to my standards.

I have to get my shop in order, my Boars Nest built, chores done around the new place...and then I will be able to commence my desired new hobby...

Now, on "restoring", do you have any tips on restoring/cleaning the "Partially Rusticated, Freehand Nording Signature" pipe that I recently acquired from another BOTL? The pipe is in good shape, but I would like to at least (for now) clean it. In the future, I will want to actually restore it...but Erik Nording signed it (in ink, I presume) and it is unfinished wood...except for the partially rusticated areas.

Here is a pic, not the best pic...but all I have on hand:


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

quo155 said:


> Now, on "restoring", do you have any tips on restoring/cleaning the "Partially Rusticated, Freehand Nording Signature" pipe that I recently acquired from another BOTL? The pipe is in good shape, but I would like to at least (for now) clean it. In the future, I will want to actually restore it...but Erik Nording signed it (in ink, I presume) and it is unfinished wood...except for the partially rusticated areas.


Hey Tommy! Still, a BEAUTIFUL pipe buddy, wish I was the one with the chore of restoring that beauty.

Now that pipe honestly looks totally unfinished. And frankly, that pipe looks better now than it ever would with a shiny carnuaba finish on it. So I say, leave her the way Nording intended.

There are a few things you can do to make this thing a real piece of artwork. First, clean it. I like to smooth out the cake, toothpaste-up the stem, etc. A wet black stem is the first hallmark of a well restored pipe. The smooth cake will let that thing smoke like a dream, too.

Next, you'll want to get to work on the stummel. Like I said, carnuaba wax is going to totally change the personality of that pipe. I recommend an oil finish. My two favorites are mineral oil and tung oil. Mineral oil will bring out the grain and leave you with a rich looking matte finish. Tung oil (use REAL raw tung oil) will leave a slightly more lusterous finish. The more coats you put on and buff off, the closer you'll get to a glassy carnuaba-like finish. So if you go with that, don't over-do it.

Have fun with that thing, I love the look of Nordings! That thing's gunna be a dime!


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> Hey Tommy! Still, a BEAUTIFUL pipe buddy, wish I was the one with the chore of restoring that beauty.
> 
> Now that pipe honestly looks totally unfinished. And frankly, that pipe looks better now than it ever would with a shiny carnuaba finish on it. So I say, leave her the way Nording intended.
> 
> ...


Thanks Kyle! Yes, I don't intend to take ANYTHING away from how Nording intended. However, IMHO it is a bit "dirty", per say...but a lot of it is the natural darkening of the unfinished Briar...from the original owner's use. If it's best left alone, then I am game for that...just didn't know if there was any way to get it back to how it would have looked off his bench.

There is a thick cake within that I want to remove completely...as well as the stem needs re-polishing. You have addressed how to tend to these areas but I didn't know if there were any ways to pull the "color" to put back to original. Either way, it is a BEAUTIFUL pipe. I also know that even if I leave it as it, with removing the cake and refinishing the stem...it will, for me be a piece of art...yet rustic enough that I can use it as my daily (in the Boars Nest) smoker.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

quo155 said:


> Thanks Kyle! Yes, I don't intend to take ANYTHING away from how Nording intended. However, IMHO it is a bit "dirty", per say...but a lot of it is the natural darkening of the unfinished Briar...from the original owner's use. If it's best left alone, then I am game for that...just didn't know if there was any way to get it back to how it would have looked off his bench.
> 
> There is a thick cake within that I want to remove completely...as well as the stem needs re-polishing. You have addressed how to tend to these areas but I didn't know if there were any ways to pull the "color" to put back to original. Either way, it is a BEAUTIFUL pipe. I also know that even if I leave it as it, with removing the cake and refinishing the stem...it will, for me be a piece of art...yet rustic enough that I can use it as my daily (in the Boars Nest) smoker.


You know, something you might want to try is a little bit of high proof ethanol (everclear) on the darkened areas. A lot of grime will be wicked out of briar with some good ole booze. That might get it back to a sort of "blank" canvas for your refinishing method of choice.

I also talked to someone else (earlier in this thread) about cake reaming. A lot of people want to ream estate pipes down to the wood when its one of the first few they've worked on. And I'd be a liar if I said I didn't still do it for special cases. The fact is, the reason you would fully ream a bowl is to remove ghosts or poorly developed cake. There is a better way to solve these problems that is much more safe (fully reaming a bowl can cause moisture to seep into cracks caused by caking the pipe. Ordinarily, cake fills these cracks and your pipe is never the worse. But when you fully ream, moisture gets in there and can cause the cracks to widem when smoking. Pretty soon "POP!" And you're down one beautiful Nording.) and I (cleverly) call it "refrosting" your cake. Scrape it slightly lower than the "dime" thickness that is recommend. Then smoke back to slightly over dime thickness. Repeat as necessary. This builds a really high quality cake right on the top of your pipe. It'll take a week or two. But I promse, Tommy, you won't regret it.


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

As always...great advice Kyle! I have a big bottle of Everclear at the house...just waiting to do some "dirty" work!

Hopefully, I can at least get this one to where I want it so I can begin using it...however it may be months before I even get to touch them...I will keep you posted on my experiences...

Thanks!!!



karatekyle said:


> You know, something you might want to try is a little bit of high proof ethanol (everclear) on the darkened areas. A lot of grime will be wicked out of briar with some good ole booze. That might get it back to a sort of "blank" canvas for your refinishing method of choice.
> 
> I also talked to someone else (earlier in this thread) about cake reaming. A lot of people want to ream estate pipes down to the wood when its one of the first few they've worked on. And I'd be a liar if I said I didn't still do it for special cases. The fact is, the reason you would fully ream a bowl is to remove ghosts or poorly developed cake. There is a better way to solve these problems that is much more safe (fully reaming a bowl can cause moisture to seep into cracks caused by caking the pipe. Ordinarily, cake fills these cracks and your pipe is never the worse. But when you fully ream, moisture gets in there and can cause the cracks to widem when smoking. Pretty soon "POP!" And you're down one beautiful Nording.) and I (cleverly) call it "refrosting" your cake. Scrape it slightly lower than the "dime" thickness that is recommend. Then smoke back to slightly over dime thickness. Repeat as necessary. This builds a really high quality cake right on the top of your pipe. It'll take a week or two. But I promse, Tommy, you won't regret it.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

quo155 said:


> As always...great advice Kyle! I have a big bottle of Everclear at the house...just waiting to do some "dirty" work!
> 
> Hopefully, I can at least get this one to where I want it so I can begin using it...however it may be months before I even get to touch them...I will keep you posted on my experiences...
> 
> Thanks!!!


Sweet, sounds great, love to hear how it ends up! And of course, it's always my pleasure. I'll help any way I can!

And yeah, I _bet _that big bottle of everclear was for dirty work. 
Tommy --> :new_all_coholic:


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> Sweet, sounds great, love to hear how it ends up! And of course, it's always my pleasure. I'll help any way I can!
> 
> And yeah, I _bet _that big bottle of everclear was for dirty work.
> Tommy --> :new_all_coholic:


:new_all_coholic:...= ... :dunno:


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

As I work on a few old estate pipes I recently bought, I find myself wondering if pipe cleaners were a recent invention... I wonder this because as the pile of nasty pipe cleaners builds up I can't help but think that these are the first pipe cleaners the pipe has ever seen... That first one comes out especially nasty, with a brown and black sticky mess of tar and tobacco pieces. uke: But my rambling does have a point here, I have found that soaking the stem in some oxyclean does wonders on both softening up all that mess inside the stem, and also on minor crud and oxidation on the outside, though for heavily oxidized stems it looks like some post-soak sanding may be necessary.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

This is totally true Nick, I find that using bristled cleaners on estate pipes is the only way to go when restoring.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Sorry, pretty sure this is a repeat question but didn't see the response. 

What do you do when toothpaste and Brasso isn't removing all the oxidization after five scrubs?

I have some REALLY bad oxidized vulcanite stems from two old abused calabashes that I've been cleaning. I have scrubbed each five times now, and there is still some green oxidization. It is improving, but quite slowly, and I'm afraid they still might need another 4 or 5 scrubbings.

I've used bleach before to remove oxidization from ones this bad, but that seems to pit the vulcanite and leave a bad surface to shine. Just read Nick's tip below for Oxyclean and sanding, but never used the stuff before.

What do you do when stems are this bad?

Thanks bro!


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

The Mad Professor said:


> Sorry, pretty sure this is a repeat question but didn't see the response.
> 
> What do you do when toothpaste and Brasso isn't removing all the oxidization after five scrubs?
> 
> ...


Not trying to jack karatekyle's thread here, but did you try a magic eraser? I used it of a few of my stems and it worked wonders, though I will still probably have to do a little sanding, but I am a little OCD about my stems... It certainly gives passable results...


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Nick S. said:


> but did you try a magic eraser?


No I didn't but I remember reading about that once. Is that the Mr Clean Magic Erasers? I already searched through all my art erasers, twice in fact, before I googled it and turned up those Mr Clean ones.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

The Mad Professor said:


> No I didn't but I remember reading about that once. Is that the Mr Clean Magic Erasers? I already searched through all my art erasers, twice in fact, before I googled it and turned up those Mr Clean ones.


Yup, the MR Clean ones. I have only used them after I soak the stem in Oxy Clean, but they do a nice job. I also say a youtube vid on using Barkeepers friend, and I have tried it...It works but does take some elbow grease... I think if you have a fairly large amount of oxidation you won't be able to avoid sanding after you clean off the green crud... but I haven't don't the toothpaste method...


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

I agree a lot with what Nick has suggested. MR erasers are definitely another good tool. I might recommend grabbing a buffing wheel and putting it in a hand drill. Build your own little buffing station. Then pick up some red tripoli and white diamond. They'll take the last remnants off and bring it to a beautiful shine. Even when you use bleach, the tripoli will buff it up well.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Awesome info! Thank you both!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

The Mad Professor said:


> Awesome info! Thank you both!


I'm always more than happy to help! And thanks Nick for answering his question, I had a different method in mind but yours is much cheaper and easier. Two heads are always better than one!


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## jtree26 (Aug 20, 2008)

I'm trying to understand the order of steps and I'm struggling a bit. This is what I'm planning to do with a Ben Wade estate I picked up.

1. Use acetone to strip finish
2. sand with 0000 steel wool
3. stain
4. mineral oil
5. tung oil
6. buff like crazy
6. carnauba

Does this look correct or do I have too many things going on?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

jtree26 said:


> 1. Use acetone to strip finish
> 2. sand with 0000 steel wool (only if needed, you don't need to on all pipes)
> 3. stain (if needed/desired)
> 
> ...


I'll just FTFY. Only sand if there's grain you need to even out or something. You usually only need sanding on a full restore, not a refinish. Staining is up to you. If you want to change the color, do it. The acetone will pull a little color out so if you want to darken it to its original color, stain away. The rest is pretty self explanatory. Mineral oil, tung oil, and carnuaba are seperate finishing options. Pick one. Or mix and match to experiment! I've noticed from my own experiments that mineral oil and then carnauba will give your briar grain a lot of depth.


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## jtree26 (Aug 20, 2008)

karatekyle said:


> I'll just FTFY. Only sand if there's grain you need to even out or something. You usually only need sanding on a full restore, not a refinish. Staining is up to you. If you want to change the color, do it. The acetone will pull a little color out so if you want to darken it to its original color, stain away. The rest is pretty self explanatory. Mineral oil, tung oil, and carnuaba are seperate finishing options. Pick one. Or mix and match to experiment! I've noticed from my own experiments that mineral oil and then carnauba will give your briar grain a lot of depth.


Perfect, thanks for the input!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

jtree26 said:


> Perfect, thanks for the input!


My pleasure, brother!


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## JD11 (Aug 21, 2008)

is mineral oil preferred over olive oil ? I seem to read about people using olive oil more..


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Olive oil can spoil. Also, its tastes and smells like olive oil. I don't want my pipe smelling like Panara bread. The reason people use it is because its more common and cheap. But for $.25 more, you can get mineral oil. Which doesn't spoil, is tasteless, clear, and doesn't smell like olive oil! Not dissing on anyone that uses olive oil, I just think mineral oil does a more professional job.


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## JD11 (Aug 21, 2008)

karatekyle said:


> Olive oil can spoil. Also, its tastes and smells like olive oil.


That makes more sense... Never tried the oil thing , but if I do it will be mineral oil.... Thanks


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

JD11 said:


> That makes more sense... Never tried the oil thing , but if I do it will be mineral oil.... Thanks


Absolutely!!


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## jtree26 (Aug 20, 2008)

I've got a question on a "light" restoration job. I picked up a Stanwell estate on ebay, it's in pretty good shape. It doesn't have any major scratches or dings, it just needs to be "brightened" up a little bit. Would a quick polish with White Diamond and a coat of wax do the trick? My concern is that the buffing might strip too much of the existing finish off. It's already a nice looking old pipe, I just to bring the shine back.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

jtree26 said:


> I've got a question on a "light" restoration job. I picked up a Stanwell estate on ebay, it's in pretty good shape. It doesn't have any major scratches or dings, it just needs to be "brightened" up a little bit. Would a quick polish with White Diamond and a coat of wax do the trick? My concern is that the buffing might strip too much of the existing finish off. It's already a nice looking old pipe, I just to bring the shine back.


That would work perfectly! I have nothing to add or subtract. Its exactly what I'd do to brighten up a pipe.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> That would work perfectly! I have nothing to add or subtract. Its exactly what I'd do to brighten up a pipe.


If you want my take on it, I would second this... I did this on a couple of my pipes that were a little lackluster and now they really shine.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

I've got a project I've been toying with, and was wondering if you have any advice on giving an old pipe the "Dunhill Dress Black" finish?


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

DanR said:


> I've got a project I've been toying with, and was wondering if you have any advice on giving an old pipe the "Dunhill Dress Black" finish?


That is just a solid shiny black finish, right?


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> That is just a solid shiny black finish, right?


Yes, like gloss black, except you can sort of see the grain shining through too...


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

DanR said:


> Yes, like gloss black, except you can sort of see the grain shining through too...


What about removing the old finish (stain and wax) and restaining with some black leather stain. stain and wipe down, repeat until you get the desired level of black to grain showing through that you want. Then buff and wax. The only thing is I don't know if the black stain would completely cover the grain. I know some pipes that look black are actually dark purple, especially the sandblasted ones.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> What about removing the old finish (stain and wax) and restaining with some black leather stain. stain and wipe down, repeat until you get the desired level of black to grain showing through that you want. Then buff and wax. The only thing is I don't know if the black stain would completely cover the grain. I know some pipes that look black are actually dark purple, especially the sandblasted ones.


Well, that certainly sounds easy enough. It's probably in here somewhere already, so I apologize, but what black leather stain do you recommend?


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## jtree26 (Aug 20, 2008)

Thanks for confirming my plan!


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

DanR said:


> Well, that certainly sounds easy enough. It's probably in here somewhere already, so I apologize, but what black leather stain do you recommend?


Never used it myself, but I think Kyle recommends Fiebing's.

Here: Amazon.com: Tandy Leather Fiebings U.S.M.C. Black Leather Dye 2100-01: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

Speak up Kyle if I have something wrong here.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> Never used it myself, but I think Kyle recommends Fiebing's.
> 
> Here: Amazon.com: Tandy Leather Fiebings U.S.M.C. Black Leather Dye 2100-01: Arts, Crafts & Sewing
> 
> Speak up Kyle if I have something wrong here.


No, rock on Nick! I will say that feibings black will only do so much. Dress pipes are an almost painted look. I've never done the dress pipe look before, you may have to experiment a bit. Actually painting and waxing might be your best bet, actually.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> No, rock on Nick! I will say that feibings black will only do so much. Dress pipes are an almost painted look. I've never done the dress pipe look before, you may have to experiment a bit. Actually painting and waxing might be your best bet, actually.


So, what paint would you try?


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> No, rock on Nick! *I will say that feibings black will only do so much*. Dress pipes are an almost painted look. I've never done the dress pipe look before, you may have to experiment a bit. *Actually painting and waxing might be your best bet*, actually.


What about multiple coats? Wouldn't that make it darker?

Wouldn't paint prevent the briar from breathing?


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## CALIFORNIA KID (Nov 21, 2010)

I haven't read the whole thread, but I'm almost sure my questions are not in the thread. mainly because they probably should not even be in the thread. But I am putting them here because I am betting you can answer them.

So I have carved a pipe out of a carve your own briar kit.

I need to finish it.

I was thinking of making it black but still want to be able to see the grain. If that is even possible.

I was thinking I would use a black stain then sand it down, my goal is to make something that might be similar to a laminated gun sock. would this work?

If it would not work is there any way to make it white.

what kind of stain and more importantly where do I get it

so lets suppose that I have successfully stained my pipe

now I need to polish, what compound do I use, the one I have that I use for acrylic works really well but it is green so I am afraid it make the pipe green

now for wax, I cave carnauba mold release wax, will this work or do I need a different carnauba


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

DanR said:


> So, what paint would you try?


Now you've got me, Dan. Honestly, I've never gone the route of the traditional dress pipe look. I figure, any black off the Hobby Lobby rack would be a good start. Otherwise, it might be interesting to email a company like peterson or savinelli and see if they'll tell you whether its a paint of stain that is used.



Nick S. said:


> What about multiple coats? Wouldn't that make it darker?
> 
> Wouldn't paint prevent the briar from breathing?


I have tried multiple coats of a dark Feibings and it doesn't give the pipe that grainless black appearance paint would. And frankly, briar doesn't breathe. All the stuff about absorbing and releasing moisture from the tobacco to give you a drier smoke is exagerrated. Heat causes the wood to expand. The cake stops water from entering the wood. If it did, the water could cause fissures when the stummel cooled. It can handle some moisture but minimal moisture is best. Carnuaba is used to finish pipes because it doesnt crack when they warm. It just melts to fit the new shape. Paint may crack and look ugly but its effect on the pipe would most likely be minimal.



CALIFORNIA KID said:


> I haven't read the whole thread, but I'm almost sure my questions are not in the thread. mainly because they probably should not even be in the thread. But I am putting them here because I am betting you can answer them.
> 
> So I have carved a pipe out of a carve your own briar kit.
> 
> ...


For a black grained look, the feibings Nick linked in above will work wonders. Brush it on, let it dry for 2-3 days, then buff it gently with superfine steel wool. It'll look great! From there, the polished usually used are red tripoli, white diamond, then carnauba. Really, you can do carnauba immediately after the wool but its up to you on how "mint" you want it to look. If the mold release stuff is 100% solid wax, it should work.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

DanR said:


> I've got a project I've been toying with, and was wondering if you have any advice on giving an old pipe the "Dunhill Dress Black" finish?


Of course you should post before and after pictures.... maybe even some during...


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> Of course you should post before and after pictures.... maybe even some during...


I'll definitely do that. I think I'm going to go with multiple layers of the leather dye, rather than the paint. I'll scream if I run into any trouble!


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

DanR said:


> I'll definitely do that. I think I'm going to go with multiple layers of the leather dye, rather than the paint. I'll scream if I run into any trouble!


Sounds good, once you do that buff it up with some carnauba wax and it will really shine. I gave some new life so some of my old pipes that way, and now they shine like a freshly buffed pair of dress shoes.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

DanR said:


> I'll definitely do that. I think I'm going to go with multiple layers of the leather dye, rather than the paint. I'll scream if I run into any trouble!


I'm excited to see how it works!!


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## CALIFORNIA KID (Nov 21, 2010)

still wrong thread but I am betting you can answer

I am carving a pipe, what is the thinest the walls can be?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

CALIFORNIA KID said:


> still wrong thread but I am betting you can answer
> 
> I am carving a pipe, what is the thinest the walls can be?


Ooo! Interesting question! Hmm. I don't really know a specific measurement to give you. I suppose it depends on the briar, better brair would be able to be carved into more delicate pipes. Don't ask me how to grade briar blocks because I'm just ass-babbling now. Check out some pipe pictures and get an idea of the minimum width for a normal-grade pipe. Thats the best answer I can give, brother :lol:


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Ok, as promised I have some before and after pictures. I bought this pipe on e-bay becasue I really like the tankard style by Peterson, and this one seemed really neat. I don't remember what I paid, but I remember it was cheap.

Here are the before shots:




























As you can see, it had a bad ream (I bought it that way) and looked burnt all around the top. Nonetheless, it is a GREAT smoker and I wanted to "save it".

Here's the results:



















I am delighted with the results and I'm glad you guys encouraged me to do this. Who needs Dunhill anyway...

Cheers!


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

WOW! That really turned out great, did you go with the leather stain?


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> WOW! That really turned out great, did you go with the leather stain?


No, I found an "Onyx" wood stain at Lowe's and went with that. It obviously covered most of the grain, but I think it looks great.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

DanR said:


> No, I found an "Onyx" wood stain at Lowe's and went with that. It obviously covered most of the grain, but I think it looks great.


Yeah, it looks really good. I think the silver mount really completes the look. Did you wax it?


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> Yeah, it looks really good. I think the silver mount really completes the look. Did you wax it?


Yes, two coats of Carnuba, followed by a coat of some Halcyon Pipe Wax I bought on e-bay. I have no idea what the Halcyon is (probably mineral oil or something), but it really restores the shine (or adds it in this case).

I'll probably let it sit and add another coat tomorrow.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Well holy crap. That looks awesome. Who makes this onyx stain?


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> Well holy crap. That looks awesome. Who makes this onyx stain?


I had to go out to the garage and look. It's Minwax Color Express Wiping Stain. It came in a tube and is fairly thick stuff, much more like paint than stain.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

I need to check this stuff out. I really like the way that ended up.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> I need to check this stuff out. I really like the way that ended up.


You probably need to let me smoke a few bowls out of this one first to make sure it doesn't bubble off or something... :shocked:


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

DanR said:


> You probably need to let me smoke a few bowls out of this one first to make sure it doesn't bubble off or something... :shocked:


Wait, you actually smoke your pipes? :lol:

Yeah, thats probably a good idea. Keep us posted!!


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## JuanOrez (Apr 15, 2011)

That looks great, Dan. I bet it smokes as good as it looks!


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## JD11 (Aug 21, 2008)

DanR said:


> You probably need to let me smoke a few bowls out of this one first to make sure it doesn't bubble off or something... :shocked:


waiting on the results.. I've got a beater to try it on , if it doesn't bubble or anything else . Please let us know. thanks


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## jtree26 (Aug 20, 2008)

DanR said:


> No, I found an "Onyx" wood stain at Lowe's and went with that. It obviously covered most of the grain, but I think it looks great.


Looks awesome, nice job. I just need to decide which pipe to try it on...


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## gibson_es (Jan 23, 2010)

Heres were my issue is.


Winning the dang bids! 

In getting into pipe and lighter restoration. Im gettig goid deals on lighters, gotton a few colibri and others for $5 a pice or less. 

But cant seem to win any pipe auctions. They keep going about what i feel is a reasonable offer. 

For example, ine was 8 pipes i think. No big names. Either unmarked, or yello-bole. Or dr grabbow.

Sold for $50+ before shipping!

Am i underestimating value here?

And im hoping to get a peterson p-lip or a charatan along the way, ub a lot. But they jusy make the bid impossible. Lol. 

Also, im not a big fan of straight pipes. It seems that theres 1 bent to every 10 straight. Argh!

Any advise from anyone on this?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

gibson_es said:


> Heres were my issue is.
> 
> Winning the dang bids!
> 
> ...


I'd say, just keep trying. I won this killarney p-lip almost brand new with box for $23 before shipping.

Just gotta bid on a lot of stuff. Eventually you'll get a deal!


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

JD11 said:


> waiting on the results.. I've got a beater to try it on , if it doesn't bubble or anything else . Please let us know. thanks


I'm smoking it now. Half way through the bowl and it's smoking like a champ! No issues whatsoever. I even overfilled and had some ashes come near the top from expansion during the initial light, and there's no sign of charring on the lip. This is my new favorite pipe...

Breaking it in with some H&H Louisiana Red!


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## JD11 (Aug 21, 2008)

Looks great.. and I'm glad it smokes great. I'm gonna give that Minwax a shot this weekend on an old beat up Medico . Lets hope the finish holds up. Did you Buff before you waxed it ? the only difference is that Ill be trying Paragon wax on mine..


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

I have a billiard with some VERY obvious fills. It smokes okay, I might do this just for the sake of looks. Then I have a sharp dress billiard for those special occasions!


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

Wow - whatever you paid that sure was worth it.

Truly a nice looking pipe, though I thought from the 'before' shots that rim had been burned clear through.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

ProbateGeek said:


> Wow - whatever you paid that sure was worth it.
> 
> Truly a nice looking pipe, though I thought from the 'before' shots that rim had been burned clear through.


Looks like he ground it down and re-built it.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

For the rim, I just used some 180 grit sand paper, laid it on the table and sanded away. I bet I went down nearly 1/8 inch (I compared it to another new Peterson tankard that I own, and this one is definitely shorter now). Then I used some 600 grit paper to round out the bowl from the inside.

I also removed the silver thingy and sanded all around the outside of the pipe with various grits (there's a rundown earlier in the thread, I followed that recommendation). Once it was baby's butt smooth, I added the two coats of the minwax, waiting overnight between coats and hitting it lightly with 0000 steel wool in between.

I glued the silver piece back on using some epoxy that a local woodworking store told me would stand the heat and not produce fumes.

Then two coats of carnuba and several coats of the aforementioned "pipe wax".

I couldn't be more proud of myself, as this pipe turned out much better than I expected...

Oh, and I paid something like $26 for the pipe on the bay, no lie!


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

DanR said:


> Oh, and I paid something like $26 for the pipe on the bay, no lie!


Does it have a sister? :biggrin:


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## JuanOrez (Apr 15, 2011)

ProbateGeek said:


> Does it have a sister? :biggrin:


LOL :lol:


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

DanR said:


> For the rim, I just used some 180 grit sand paper, laid it on the table and sanded away. I bet I went down nearly 1/8 inch (I compared it to another new Peterson tankard that I own, and this one is definitely shorter now). Then I used some 600 grit paper to round out the bowl from the inside.
> 
> I also removed the silver thingy and sanded all around the outside of the pipe with various grits (there's a rundown earlier in the thread, I followed that recommendation). Once it was baby's butt smooth, I added the two coats of the minwax, waiting overnight between coats and hitting it lightly with 0000 steel wool in between.
> 
> ...


It turned out spectacular, I am seriously jealous... I want to do this myself, but I have to find the right candidate for it... I think the silver band really makes it.


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## smokingstockholmer (Oct 18, 2011)

I have some questions before set out to clean the pipes from my grandpa´s collection (pipes in "My grandfather´s..." thread). 

Btw, I showed my father the link to the pipes and he said he really wanted to help me with the cleaning. He went from pipes to cigarettes maybe 20 years ago and he said he wants to pick up pipe smoking again. I gave him the link to puff.com and to some good online tobacconists (tobacco is expensive in Sweden...). He already have quite a good pipe collection, including some Dunhills my grandfather gave him.

Anyway, regarding the pipes. They look like being in quite good condition, dirty yes but they sure look ok. I'm no aspiring pipe restorer, I just want to get the pipes clean. What do you think about this?

Ream the bowls using a too small reamer dividing the bowl into four quadrants reaming one quadrant a time. I feel this method gives me good control.
This method is described on pipethought´s youtube channel.

After that salt and alcohol treatment.

At it with bristle pipe cleaners and regular ones.

Polish the bowl with Denicare bowl polish.

Brush the mouth piece with toothpaste.

Work the mouth piece with pipe cleaners.

Polish the mouth piece with Denicare stem polish. 

I want to make things as simple as possible although I want good results. What do you guys think about the method described above. Would love some input.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

smokingstockholmer said:


> I have some questions before set out to clean the pipes from my grandpa´s collection (pipes in "My grandfather´s..." thread).
> 
> Btw, I showed my father the link to the pipes and he said he really wanted to help me with the cleaning. He went from pipes to cigarettes maybe 20 years ago and he said he wants to pick up pipe smoking again. I gave him the link to puff.com and to some good online tobacconists (tobacco is expensive in Sweden...). He already have quite a good pipe collection, including some Dunhills my grandfather gave him.
> 
> ...


That looks like a solid plan, Johan. When you say "brush the mouthpiece" with toothpaste, I would edit it to "rub" mouthpiece. Don't the mouthpiece like you brush your teeth, use the paste like a sanding salve.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

smokingstockholmer said:


> I have some questions before set out to clean the pipes from my grandpa´s collection (pipes in "My grandfather´s..." thread).
> 
> Btw, I showed my father the link to the pipes and he said he really wanted to help me with the cleaning. He went from pipes to cigarettes maybe 20 years ago and he said he wants to pick up pipe smoking again. I gave him the link to puff.com and to some good online tobacconists (tobacco is expensive in Sweden...). He already have quite a good pipe collection, including some Dunhills my grandfather gave him.
> 
> ...


Sounds good if you aren't going out for the all out restoration. I would add using a castleford reamer, it has 4 different size blades and the smallest one should fit in your smaller pipes. If you want to ream more and the next size up is too big, then you can go for the pipe knife and scrape it out (that's what I do anyway). Also pick up a shank brush, it will pay for itself in the pipe cleaners it saves.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> Sounds good if you aren't going out for the all out restoration. I would add using a castleford reamer, it has 4 different size blades and the smallest one should fit in your smaller pipes. If you want to ream more and the next size up is too big, then you can go for the pipe knife and scrape it out (that's what I do anyway). Also pick up a shank brush, it will pay for itself in the pipe cleaners it saves.


Agreed. I knife-ream all my pipes. Not a big reamer guy, myself.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Great thread, Kyle!

Not sure if this question fits here or not, but here goes:

I have a pipe with some issues. The brand name, I was told, is "Greek Smooth"....though it has "ITALY" stamped on the shank LOL. I bought it new just a couple of months ago. It was a cheapie ($18, marked down from $30-something), but I like the shape and it smokes pretty good, and I just can't bring myself to throw something out that still has some kind of useable life in it, so I think it will be worth it to get this issue worked out.

The finish is very smooth, glossy, and hard. Like a piano, or really glossy hardwood floors, except not as thick of a finish. I know nothing about this stuff, but I'm guessing it's a polyurethane, but I'm just guessing. The finish is starting to "bubble" and "blister", if that makes sense. A spot about 3/8 inch in diameter blistered up on the bottom just last night.

I'm still a fairly new piper, I smoke cobs almost exclusively and only have a couple of briars that I smoke occasionally, so I can certainly fathom the possibility that I'm doing something wrong, smoking too hot or something. The smoke is not uncomfortably hot in the mouth, and the pipe itself gets very warm but still comfortable to hold in the hand.

Poor technique on my part? Smoking too hot? Or crappy cheap finish on a cheapie machine made pipe? Combination of the two?

I assume a full acetone treatment and refinish is in order. But I'd hate to put in the work to have this happen again just a few smokes down the road.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> Great thread, Kyle!
> 
> Not sure if this question fits here or not, but here goes:
> 
> ...


User error can always play a part in pipe problems but it sounds like the original finish here might be to blame. I think almost any briar pipe in this predicament can be refinished correctly and smoked enjoyably. Polyurethane is NOT for finishing pipes. Stains can be interchanged but a good finishing product is not something you can cut corners on. A some point, polyurethane will bubble.

Unfortunately, acetone takes around two to three billion coats to strip polyurethane. You're going to need to either strip it with a paintstripping gel/goo or sand it. I recommend the gel/goo because its really hard to effectively sand a pipe without leaving scratches in the briar.

After that, the pipe needs to be finished the way it should've been finished in the first place. It needs a couple coats of carnauba wax or some other finishing wax/oil that works with briar and heat (mineral oil, raw tung oil, paragon wax, halcyon wax, etc).

The pipe might still smoke hot after the refinish but it won't bubble and look bad, at least!


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## gibson_es (Jan 23, 2010)

After reading oart ofth thread i decided to go with the toothpaste idea, with a toothbrush, for the stem.

I did follow it with olive oil because its all i got. I didnt bother with sanding or anything. Im keeping this pipe for myself. I will sand the next one though.. one steo at a time right?

Here is before:










Here is after:



















There ia still some rough spots, but i dont mind them for myself.

QUESTION:

any tips on pioe reaming? i am not doijg so well, after hours of work on reaming, i said screw it and got a sanding bit for my drill, like i said its for me. And ts my first restoration. So i figure some scoring wont bother me.. but i dont wanna do it again.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

gibson_es said:


> QUESTION:
> 
> any tips on pioe reaming? i am not doijg so well, after hours of work on reaming, i said screw it and got a sanding bit for my drill, like i said its for me. And ts my first restoration. So i figure some scoring wont bother me.. but i dont wanna do it again.


I'd say, just take it show and steady. Its all about control. And err on the side of taking too little off. Its better to have slightly too much cake than too little.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Thanks again, Kyle! I found Formby's Furniture Workshop Paint and Poly Remover at Lowe's and figured it would be worth a shot. It worked FANTASTIC at stripping the finish off of my little tomato. The directions say to paint it on and leave it for a while then scrape it with a scraper. The finish on my pipe didn't seem thick enough to warrant that. So I just dabbed a little of the stuff on a rag and rubbed. Worked great! Some of the stain came off as well, so it's a little lighter now....but it was a fairly dark stained pipe, and I'm totally fine with the color now. So....now I'm down to bare wood. I wouldnt say it's as smooth as glass, but it's pretty darned smooth underneath, so I don't think I need to sand. Just need to finish now.

Of note - I accidentally got a couple of smears of the Formby's in the bowl, and this stuff eats cake like my 4 year old daughter at her birthday party yesterday. Just FYI for anyone that decides to try this stuff in the future.

About finishing - the options I see mentioned are mineral oil, tung oil, and carnauba wax. Could you please run through the pros and cons of each? Maybe it's already been posted but if it was, I missed it. I'd be interested in hearing comparisons of what kind of finish I can expect from each, and how much work is involved in each. Mineral oil and tung oil are both available locally, but I haven't seen carnauba (I could order it from the pipe shop you mentioned, though). I don't yet have a buffer, but I have a couple of drills and I saw some buffing wheels and stuff for drills at Lowe's, so machine buffing is an option if necessary. I also saw linseed oil? Isn't this used on gun stocks? Is this another option or no?

Thanks again for all of the info, Kyle! I snapped a couple of pics of the little tomato, and I'll post before and after pics when I'm done! Next project is the nasty Falcon I snagged on eBay!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> Thanks again, Kyle! I found Formby's Furniture Workshop Paint and Poly Remover at Lowe's and figured it would be worth a shot. It worked FANTASTIC at stripping the finish off of my little tomato. The directions say to paint it on and leave it for a while then scrape it with a scraper. The finish on my pipe didn't seem thick enough to warrant that. So I just dabbed a little of the stuff on a rag and rubbed. Worked great! Some of the stain came off as well, so it's a little lighter now....but it was a fairly dark stained pipe, and I'm totally fine with the color now. So....now I'm down to bare wood. I wouldnt say it's as smooth as glass, but it's pretty darned smooth underneath, so I don't think I need to sand. Just need to finish now.
> 
> Of note - I accidentally got a couple of smears of the Formby's in the bowl, and this stuff eats cake like my 4 year old daughter at her birthday party yesterday. Just FYI for anyone that decides to try this stuff in the future.
> 
> ...


I don't know anything about the heat resistance of linseed oil. But I've found that natural oils rarely end up _not_ working. As far as the pros and cons of each finish, it really comes down to the look. If you like the glassy finish, its a pro of carnauba and the lack thereof is a con of tung and mineral oils. Mineral oil gives wood a "dipped in water and dried off" look. Tung oil is the in between. Depending on how many times you repeat the coat, dry, and sand process; the shinier it'll be. And then carnauba is the most well known, a polyurethane type "glassy" finish.

Hope that helps!


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## PiperPilot (Nov 9, 2011)

I'll confess up front that I didn't read through this entire post, so if this has been mentioned before, I apologize. I just had a bag of over 20 old pipes fall in my lap. Half of them are beautiful Ehrlichs in various states of neglect. I chose my favorite three to restore and got to work on the stems. On a whim I tried a Mr Clean Magic Eraser to remove the oxidation. The white sponge immediately turned brown and the rinse water was nasty. But the stems ended up beautiful. I am aware that there are some chemicals in the sponge that might not be the greatest to ingest, so I made sure to liberally rinse them under warm water for a while. 
After that I used Walker Briar Works oxidation removing paste to finish the task then buffed with carnauba. Even the greenest of the stems looks like a mirror now. I'd post pics, but I seem to be having trouble uploading right now. I'll try to work it out.

Edit: just did a forum search after the fact and noticed the Magic Eraser has been mentioned. Oops. Anyhoo, it gets a big thumbs up from me.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

PiperPilot said:


> I'll confess up front that I didn't read through this entire post, so if this has been mentioned before, I apologize. I just had a bag of over 20 old pipes fall in my lap. Half of them are beautiful Ehrlichs in various states of neglect. I chose my favorite three to restore and got to work on the stems. On a whim I tried a Mr Clean Magic Eraser to remove the oxidation. The white sponge immediately turned brown and the rinse water was nasty. But the stems ended up beautiful. I am aware that there are some chemicals in the sponge that might not be the greatest to ingest, so I made sure to liberally rinse them under warm water for a while.
> After that I used Walker Briar Works oxidation removing paste to finish the task then buffed with carnauba. Even the greenest of the stems looks like a mirror now. I'd post pics, but I seem to be having trouble uploading right now. I'll try to work it out.
> 
> Edit: just did a forum search after the fact and noticed the Magic Eraser has been mentioned. Oops. Anyhoo, it gets a big thumbs up from me.


Don't worry about it Eric, I appreciate the help. Always good to hear success stories for what works and what doesn't. RG to you!


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Great answer to my question, Kyle. Thanks!


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## caskwith (Apr 10, 2006)

A problem with an oil finish is that when the pipe gets hot it can "sweat" out leaving the pipe greasy to the touch.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

PiperPilot said:


> Edit: just did a forum search after the fact and noticed the Magic Eraser has been mentioned. Oops. Anyhoo, it gets a big thumbs up from me.


A note on the MEraser -- it's merely a very fine abrasive material, no chemicals involved really. From wiki:

*Melamine foam is a foam-like material consisting of a formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulfite copolymer.

The foam is manufactured in Germany by BASF under the name "Basotect". It has been used for over 20 years as insulation for pipes and ductwork, and has a long history as a soundproofing material for studios, sound stages, auditoriums, and the like. The low smoke and flame properties of melamine foam prevent it from being a fire hazard.*


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

caskwith said:


> A problem with an oil finish is that when the pipe gets hot it can "sweat" out leaving the pipe greasy to the touch.


This is true. I actually pre-sweat my mineral oil pipes under a candle or lighter. Get 'em nice and warm to remove a bit of oil. Plus, the heat lets the oil seep in farther while the excess comes to the surface. Wipe off the excess, cool the pipe, voila! Little to no excess with a good "saturated" oil finish look.


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## caskwith (Apr 10, 2006)

I finish my pipes in the classic way, light coat of thinned shellac, quickly wiped off to set the stain get that "wet" look. Then after a few minutes drying it gets two stages of buffing and finally a buff with carnuba.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

caskwith said:


> I finish my pipes in the classic way, light coat of thinned shellac, quickly wiped off to set the stain get that "wet" look. Then after a few minutes drying it gets two stages of buffing and finally a buff with carnuba.


I've heard people calling any shellac/polyU/etc finish blasphemy but I've done the same with fantastic results. I go with a thinned coat that I let dry. From there, I buff it once with fine abrasive (so that the shellac left is only in the pores and micro-scratches) then do a carnauba finish. Glad I'm not the only one!


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## caskwith (Apr 10, 2006)

Pretty much every professional pipemaker i know does this. it is a not a heavy coat, it is thinned and nearly all wiped off before it dries, after buffing i doubt if anything remains at all but it certainly makes a difference to the finish afterwards. I've never yet had a problem with a pipe not "breathing" lol.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

caskwith said:


> Pretty much every professional pipemaker i know does this. it is a not a heavy coat, it is thinned and nearly all wiped off before it dries, after buffing i doubt if anything remains at all but it certainly makes a difference to the finish afterwards. I've never yet had a problem with a pipe not "breathing" lol.


Okay good. Yeah, "breathing" is something wood wouldn't do through a coat of carnauba anyways, I don't know where that old wive's tale came from.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Speaking of blasphemies, I think I'll speak one now. I had a repair done on my estate Dunhill (shank was cracked), and at first it was fine. The repair is totally intact, but gradually the stem became loose and I don't know why. Very loose. I tried heating it using a drill bit to widen the tenon, but it's pretty heavy gauge on that stem (original) and I was afraid I'd ruin it, so I gave up. It helped a little at first, but soon was right back to unsmokable loose, so decided to try something that you guys might find totally horrible -- Elmer's. I applied a drop to the tenon and wiped it off smooth with a paper towel and let it dry. Then another super thin coat of Elmer's and another. I then used some 1000 grit sandpaper (I play classical guitar, so I have loads of it) to smooth it off. Perfect! No problems at all. I also did it on another pipe, the old Berkebile, with similar perfect results. Don't know how permanent it will be, but a couple of months later all is still well. (I know some of you are toxiphobes, but believe me, this will not poison your pipe.)


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

freestoke said:


> Speaking of blasphemies, I think I'll speak one now. I had a repair done on my estate Dunhill (shank was cracked), and at first it was fine. The repair is totally intact, but gradually the stem became loose and I don't know why. Very loose. I tried heating it using a drill bit to widen the tenon, but it's pretty heavy gauge on that stem (original) and I was afraid I'd ruin it, so I gave up. It helped a little at first, but soon was right back to unsmokable loose, so decided to try something that you guys might find totally horrible -- Elmer's. I applied a drop to the tenon and wiped it off smooth with a paper towel and let it dry. Then another super thin coat of Elmer's and another. I then used some 1000 grit sandpaper (I play classical guitar, so I have loads of it) to smooth it off. Perfect! No problems at all. I also did it on another pipe, the old Berkebile, with similar perfect results. Don't know how permanent it will be, but a couple of months later all is still well. (I know some of you are toxiphobes, but believe me, this will not poison your pipe.)


I'd be more concerned with it poisoning you, not the pipe. But I guess I don't know of anything that would work better, save a replacement stem. Maybe a tenon sleeve made of metal (like a spigot you don't see when the stem is in) would be a little more foolproof (as far as toxicity risks) but I guess I wouldn't get too antsy over it if you're not sick yet :lol:


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> I'd be more concerned with it poisoning you, not the pipe. But I guess I don't know of anything that would work better, save a replacement stem. Maybe a tenon sleeve made of metal (like a spigot you don't see when the stem is in) would be a little more foolproof (as far as toxicity risks) but I guess I wouldn't get too antsy over it if you're not sick yet :lol:


I don't see how hardly anything from the fix would wind up in the smoke stream. I'm betting one whiff of campfire smoke would carry thousands of times the toxic load of what might come out of that fix. Elmer's is pretty benign -- they let kindergartners lick it off their fingers during paper gluing class after all.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Exactly what I was gonna say, Jim. As much Elmer's glue as my kids have eaten over the years, I seriously doubt a little dabb on a pipe tenon could cause any harm.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

freestoke said:


> I don't see how hardly anything from the fix would wind up in the smoke stream. I'm betting one whiff of campfire smoke would carry thousands of times the toxic load of what might come out of that fix. Elmer's is pretty benign -- they let kindergartners lick it off their fingers during paper gluing class after all.


I was thinking the same. It can't be _that_ bad is it's nontoxic.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

Yup +1 on that, Elmer's is 100% nontoxic. I don't know about its toxicity levels when burning, but if you’re getting the mortise and tenon hot enough to start to melt/burn the glue then you have bigger issues than toxic fumes...


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> but if you're getting the mortise and tenon hot enough to start to melt/burn the glue then you have bigger issues than toxic fumes...


I didn't think of that either. Thanks for the perspective Nick! Jim has some pretty big issues but I doubt that's one of them :lol:


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Just a little before and after of some pipes I did for Matt, *mmiller*...

His kaywoodie before...

and after...

His falcon before...

and after...

And his Peterson before...

and after...

It was mostly just some cleaning and polishing that needed to be done. The only big fix I did was beautifying the Pete's rim.


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## mmiller (Nov 17, 2011)

They look amazing! mg: I cant wait to get them back and try them out! I bet the pictures dont do them justice either.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Glad you think so! The pete ended up looking pretty sharp, very high quality stem. Easy to buff up, its pretty glossy and black! It was my pleasure to fiddle with them a bit.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Looking good, Kyle! You know I recently picked up a grungy Falcon as well. What did you use on the metal? I was thinking something like Brasso on a soft cloth and some elbow grease. Sound good?

I just haven't had the time to delve in yet :banghead:


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

freestoke said:


> I don't see how hardly anything from the fix would wind up in the smoke stream. I'm betting one whiff of campfire smoke would carry thousands of times the toxic load of what might come out of that fix. Elmer's is pretty benign -- they let kindergartners lick it off their fingers during paper gluing class after all.


It's water soluble, so it doesn't really work, either.  So much for my great idea. :faint:


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## mmiller (Nov 17, 2011)

freestoke said:


> It's water soluble, so it doesn't really work, either.  So much for my great idea. :faint:


You could possibly try clear nail polish, I dont know how much better than super glue that would be though... :dunno:


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

mmiller said:


> You could possibly try clear nail polish, I dont know how much better than super glue that would be though... :dunno:


Great idea!. :tu Maybe even the nail polish coater that's a protective layer over the nail polish.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> Looking good, Kyle! You know I recently picked up a grungy Falcon as well. What did you use on the metal? I was thinking something like Brasso on a soft cloth and some elbow grease. Sound good?
> 
> I just haven't had the time to delve in yet :banghead:


That's exactly what I did. You can't tell from the pictures but it really gleamed up well.



freestoke said:


> Great idea!. :tu Maybe even the nail polish coater that's a protective layer over the nail polish.


Fantastic idea, Matt! Try it out Jim, that might work perfectly.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Kyle - nice job on those restorations! The Pete really does look terrific.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Wow, Kyle, terrific! 

Just out of curiosity, I've heard that there's a wood filler that pipe makers use. I guess it's something like Plasticwood, but probably non-toxic. Anybody got any of that stuff? Like more than they'd ever use? I'd happily trade some tobacco for a wad of it. I have a couple of pipes that would be really nice if I could fill in the heel a little and bring the bottom up to a too-high drill. This seems to be the problem with a lot of "basket pipes", so I'm curious as to why there isn't a general solution for that other than pipe mud, which I haven't been able to make hold up. Even if you let it dry out forever, when you smoke it the condensation wets it back up and it becomes unstable and falls out. CanNOT make it adhere to that old substrate that's never been charred over because of the high drill. Pipe mud seems to work okay on a hole in the chamber wall, but not on the heel.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

freestoke said:


> Wow, Kyle, terrific!
> 
> Just out of curiosity, I've heard that there's a wood filler that pipe makers use. I guess it's something like Plasticwood, but probably non-toxic. Anybody got any of that stuff? Like more than they'd ever use? I'd happily trade some tobacco for a wad of it. I have a couple of pipes that would be really nice if I could fill in the heel a little and bring the bottom up to a too-high drill. This seems to be the problem with a lot of "basket pipes", so I'm curious as to why there isn't a general solution for that other than pipe mud, which I haven't been able to make hold up. Even if you let it dry out forever, when you smoke it the condensation wets it back up and it becomes unstable and falls out. CanNOT make it adhere to that old substrate that's never been charred over because of the high drill. Pipe mud seems to work okay on a hole in the chamber wall, but not on the heel.


Yeah, I don't know of anything than pipe mud for the interior of the bowl. Have you tried using more honey than ash? Burning it down and then re applying until even?


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

freestoke said:


> Wow, Kyle, terrific!
> 
> Just out of curiosity, I've heard that there's a wood filler that pipe makers use. I guess it's something like Plasticwood, but probably non-toxic. Anybody got any of that stuff? Like more than they'd ever use? I'd happily trade some tobacco for a wad of it. I have a couple of pipes that would be really nice if I could fill in the heel a little and bring the bottom up to a too-high drill. This seems to be the problem with a lot of "basket pipes", so I'm curious as to why there isn't a general solution for that other than pipe mud, which I haven't been able to make hold up. Even if you let it dry out forever, when you smoke it the condensation wets it back up and it becomes unstable and falls out. CanNOT make it adhere to that old substrate that's never been charred over because of the high drill. Pipe mud seems to work okay on a hole in the chamber wall, but not on the heel.


Jim, I know you tried Elmer School glue (or regular, or whatever), but did you try wood glue? I swear that stuff holds up better than wood. I'd try filling the top of the shank, let it dry, then drill it out to the right size...

BTW, I'm smoking my Pete Tankard that I made into an ebony dress pipe, and that stain is holding up like new, it's still looking and smoking awesome!!!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

DanR said:


> ...then drill it out to the right size...


:shock:

As they might say in a court room, "Objection, your honor! Assuming skills not in evidence." I was think more in terms of smoothing it out with my finger before it dries. And hoping I get THAT right! :lol:

Just looking at what y'all have done with those pipes amazes me. You guys are awesome! :bowdown:


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

freestoke said:


> :shock:
> 
> As they might say in a court room, "Objection, your honor! Assuming skills not in evidence." I was think more in terms of smoothing it out with my finger before it dries. And hoping I get THAT right! :lol:
> 
> Just looking at what y'all have done with those pipes amazes me. You guys are awesome! :bowdown:


Oh come on now, it easy! You just start with the smallest drill bit you've got, then go slightly bigger until the stem fits the shank the way you like. What've you got to lose?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Stumbled on something concerning reaming that I've already posted twice, but I went to the trouble of copying it and thought it would be a good addition to this thread anyhow:

----
This is actually covered in _The Pipe_, by Georges Herment, "Scraping Out the Bowl", page 139:

*But here a problem arises -- a much debated problem among pipe scrapers. To what degree should a pipe be scraped out? There are two schools of thought on this subject.

The First School of Thought recommends chipping out the char in piecs, starting from the lip of the bowl. With a little experience it is easy to do this right to the bottom. The interior of the bowl will now appear of a shiny blackness, for we are in the presence of the char proper, which must not be touched...

The Second School of Thought believes in a partial scraping out, for it holds that leaving a thin coat of char makes a better foundation for future smokes...
*


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

freestoke said:


> Stumbled on something concerning reaming that I've already posted twice, but I went to the trouble of copying it and thought it would be a good addition to this thread anyhow:
> 
> ----
> This is actually covered in _The Pipe_, by Georges Herment, "Scraping Out the Bowl", page 139:
> ...


I'm a second schooler, personally. I find that cake is much more structurally sound and smooth when it builds on an incompletely reamed pipe.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

This thread has stars, BTW! I'm so proud, my little thread is all grown up :lol:


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Hi, Kyle. I've looked through the thread and didn't see this directly addressed anywhere. I got an old sandblasted pipe off of ebay, and I'd like to try restoring it myself. It has a solid black finish (no red undertones) that is quite worn. There is a lot of dirt and grime in the folds/pits of the sandblast. How can I clean the exterior of the pipe? A toothbrush? What solvent would I use? Also, since the finish is worn I'd like to brighten it up, and maybe add a little color. Once it is clean could I use a coat of wood stain in a reddish color? Would that get the effect of the old style black/red sandblast finishes? Sorry for all the questions, but thanks in advance!


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## caskwith (Apr 10, 2006)

Acetone and a tootbrush would be a good start but any rough finish is hard to work with.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

caskwith said:


> Acetone and a tootbrush would be a good start but any rough finish is hard to work with.


Agreed. If its not coming off, use a gelling paint stripper. But be careful, it'll take it all the way down to bare unstained wood VERY quickly. For a stain, go with an alcohol based one. This is what I prefer. I'd try the Dark Red or Medium Brown, depending on how red you'd like it. There's a rough color chart here. Hope this helps!


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Thanks Chris and Kyle. I've seen mention of the leather dyes earlier in this thread. I'm curious, why use leather dye instead of wood stain?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

ChronoB said:


> Thanks Chris and Kyle. I've seen mention of the leather dyes earlier in this thread. I'm curious, why use leather dye instead of wood stain?


Wood stain seals the briar a bit more than you'd want to and contains some unusual smelling solvents. I notice in pipes that I use non-alcohol stains on that I occasionally get a whiff of the warmed-up finish. When the pipe heats up, some stains can buckle and disfigure. With alcohol stains, you paint them on, light the stain to burn off the excess, then buff. The alcohol flames off so you're left with colored wood and no left over solvents.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Good thing I'm not in a rush, because I have really been dragging my arse with this project.

Got a couple more questions, Kyle:

I got my goods in from Pimo. I ordered some wax, two buff arbors, a sewn muslin buff for wax application, and a flannel buff for final polishing. However....I'm wondering if they sent me the wrong thing. The flannel buff - it is 20 ply, attached together in the center of the circle near the hole for the arbor. Each ply is soft and fuzzy on one side and coarse canvas on the other side. However, both sides of the buff have the coarse canvas side facing outward. Is this correct? I just assumed that final buffing would be with something really soft, like what you'd buff car wax with.

Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question, but I was wondering if maybe they sent me the wrong thing by mistake or something.

Thanks in advance.

If my post isn't clear, I'll put up some pics later if you need me to.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Addendum - to clarify: on closer examination, the "rough" side of the flannel has grooves, kinda like denim, if that makes sense. The sewn muslin buff does not. Still, I just assumed final buffing would be with something softer :???:


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> Good thing I'm not in a rush, because I have really been dragging my arse with this project.
> 
> Got a couple more questions, Kyle:
> 
> ...


The sewn muslin should be a tight disc buff sewn all together and the flannel should be really loose and 3 or 4 times thicker than the sewn muslin buff. My final buff wheel is pretty soft but the rough side might help remove excess wax (which might actually make your pipes shinier).


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Well I finally got around to it!

This was a cheap little pipe that I got even cheaper on clearance from Jack at Sterling Tobacco.

It developed a "blister" on the bottom of the bowl:



















A little of this:










Took it down to this:










Finally, some carnauba, a couple of buffs on my hand drill, and voila:



















In hindsight, sanding might have made it look a little better. It's not perfect....but, to be brutally honest, I really didn't put much effort into it. It was a cheapie pipe, and I just wanted to get rid of the old finish and get something else on it so I could smoke it, and to use it as a learning experience to do this again with an estate (I've already bought one, matter of fact). Mission accomplished. It looks good enough to take out in public IMO, and I had fun and learned a lot :whoo:


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Okay Laddybucks, I'm thinking of taking this large pipe, a billiard with a broken stem, and turning it into a volcano shape. DanR is sending me a tapered stem and I was thinking of trying a military mount or something and came up totally dry on searching for what putting such a mount on a pipe entails. I had the feeling that you just pushed a metal collar on the shank and off you'd go, so even my meager skills might cope with it. I can't even find where you'd buy such a thing. :dunno: I don't have a military/spigot pipe. I don't even have a pipe with a decorative metal band on it! (But I guess you could call the bands on the cobs spigot mounts couldn't you, or miniature military mounts? I'm not sure I even know the difference. ) Anyhow, where would I buy such a thing?

Hmm...just looking at this again. This is a very tough problem. It's more like a Canadian with a huge bowl and not quite long enough shank. The shank is oval, so it starts to get complicated immediately. The stem is short like a Canadian's, too. (Yes, I'll get a picture up...)


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> . . . Mission accomplished. It looks good enough to take out in public IMO, and I had fun and learned a lot :whoo:


I love the new look, Clifford - quite an improvement. But, how does it smoke?

p


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

ProbateGeek said:


> I love the new look, Clifford - quite an improvement. But, how does it smoke?
> 
> p


Me too! A great improvement, Clifford! Nice job there!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Jim, depending on the size of the shank, you may way to try picking up a cheap push stem pipe (like a Grabow) and then pull the ferrule off it and put it on the pipe in question. A heat gun/ lighter to warm it up so it bends easy might be all you need!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> Jim, depending on the size of the shank, you may way to try picking up a cheap push stem pipe (like a Grabow) and then pull the ferrule off it and put it on the pipe in question. A heat gun/ lighter to warm it up so it bends easy might be all you need!


I just found out that the spigot is a military mount with extra silverware on the stem, so THAT'S out! :lol: I have also seen that the mortise is tapered, so I'm running out of options fast. :frown:


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## vrocco (Jan 13, 2012)

Hi there! I am fairly new to pipe smoking and brand new to pipe restoration. I just read all 15 pages of this thread and there is some great information here. My question is where do you find replacement stems? I have a bunch of old beat-up briar bowls that I bought as a lot. Almost all of them are missing stems though. Is there a good source for replacements? How hard is it to fit them to a bowl?

Thanks!

EDIT: I was gonna post a link to the auction for the lot I won but you need 30 posts to post URLs, so if you wanna see my new projects, search item 260933220105 on ebay.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

vrocco said:


> Hi there! I am fairly new to pipe smoking and brand new to pipe restoration. I just read all 15 pages of this thread and there is some great information here. My question is where do you find replacement stems? I have a bunch of old beat-up briar bowls that I bought as a lot. Almost all of them are missing stems though. Is there a good source for replacements? How hard is it to fit them to a bowl?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> EDIT: I was gonna post a link to the auction for the lot I won but you need 30 posts to post URLs, so if you wanna see my new projects, search item 260933220105 on ebay.


I've never attempted to fit a new stem so take my advice with a grain of salt, ok?

If you want to get someone to do the work for you, Dave Wolff could. Looks like $24 for a plain vulcanite straight stem and upwards from there:
Pipe Repairs

Or Pimo sells a variety of sizes and shapes. You'd have to do some careful measuring before ordering, and do the final fitment yourself. They're very inexpensive, though:
Pipe Making Stems and Other Supplies from PIMO Pipe Craft

Again, I've never done this, I'm just tossing ideas at you.


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## vrocco (Jan 13, 2012)

The idea behind buying these beaters was to get some practice doing the work myself. Thanks for the link to order stems though. I appreciate the help.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Definitely go with Pimo if you're doing it yourself!


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## aermotor (Jan 14, 2012)

Tagged for great info for the future!


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## vrocco (Jan 13, 2012)

karatekyle said:


> Definitely go with Pimo if you're doing it yourself!


All of the stems I see on there look straight. What about curved stems?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

You'll want to warm them up with a candle of hot water to bend the vulcanite!


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## vrocco (Jan 13, 2012)

Anyone know anything about cleaning a calabash? Would you use a retort on it? I'm afraid to let alcohol sit in the calabash for too long. Should I use alcohol at all? Other options?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

vrocco said:


> Anyone know anything about cleaning a calabash? Would you use a retort on it? I'm afraid to let alcohol sit in the calabash for too long. Should I use alcohol at all? Other options?


Using a retort shouldn't be a problem at all. Alcohol doesn't damage gourd calabashes (to the best of my knowledge, I've never heard a story of a retort ruining calabash).


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

szyzk said:


> I understand you're busy, and don't expect you to get to this any time soon... But, would you be willing to lay out for me, step by step, your process of refurbishing a pipe?
> 
> I've tried to read the thread you started but with all the questions people ask, things are never in chronological order.
> 
> If you could, I'd love to hear a little about each step - any tricks you've learned - as well as the product that you're using (both brand name and what exactly the product is in case I can't get the exact things you have).


I got this message from Andrew a little while ago and I realized this hasn't been done yet. I've been giving a lot of I-got-this-far-now-I'm-stuck-on-this type of advice, now that's all out there, I'll fill in the cracks for what I do, beginning to end.

First thing. The bowl. Why start with the bowl? Because my hands shake like a busty black girl in a 'Fiddy' Cent music video. Clean out the bowl with alcohol? I might was well pop open a bottle of bubbly and spray it into the bowl :lol: So don't take chances, start with the bowl. Salt and alcohol. Any salt, any alcohol. Though most recommend "tasteless" liquor, many enjoy the idea of cleaning it out with a bit of their favorite whisk(e)y. The higher the proof, the better. While a little water on the inside of your bowl, contrary to popular belief, won't destroy it; it certainly slows the process a bit. Alcohol is pretty easy to quickly remove with a Bic lighter. Water... is a little more resilient.

I do not use pure ethanol (Everclear). I use denatured ethanol. Most say they have the best luck with 150+ proof liquors and I usually try to get 95%. It is typically denatured with methanol which has no adverse effects on the pipe (it, for all practical purposes, is the same as ethanol. All denaturing additives evaporate along with the alcohol). After a q-tip dipped in alcohol is used to soak the cake a bit, the pipe is left to dry. Then, I use high grit sandpaper to smooth the cake. The lower levels of the cake seem to have a more neutral, ghost free taste. After smoothing a bit of the top layers off, I use salt and alcohol treatments to wick a bit of flavor out of what is left. From there, I use q-tips to paint on a bit of pipe sweetener. It doesn't really matter what kind, they're all the same; denatured alcohol and a bit of dissolved sugar. The reason I do this is because I find the sugar helps build new cake on the inside of the pipe. I picked up a bottle of it one day and have always used it on a particular pipe I have. I've noticed on a few other pipes that after I ream, the cake seems to get really flaky unless I baby it. The little bit of sugar in pipe sweetener helps ash affix a bit to the inside of the bowl making your new cake particularly strong. And maybe it is just a placebo effect but I always think pipes that have been sweetened are just so fresh and true to the taste of the tobacco.

Finish. Almost every pipe needs to be stripped and refinished the way the maker refinished it. The fact is, you can finish a pipe fully with carnauba. But that's a very fragile finish and no matter how careful you are, it is nearly impossible to maintain without frequent reapplications. Most pipe makers but a base coat of varnish on their pipes. Gasp! I know. None of them will admit to it but I'm sitting here holding a Pete Killarney Dublin that is UNDOUBTEDLY finished with polyurethane before carnauba. Same with one of my favorite Nordings. I think polyurethane is a bit of a gaudy look. Sometimes toning down the shine and thickness of the varnish really adds a lot of class and character to the look. I use tung oil. Experiment using different kinds. Thin coat on, buff it off with a buffing wheel. Repeat until it looks decently well finished. Then put the stummel down and grab the stem.

Stem! Grab a soup can and some bleach. 2/3 to 3/4 of the stem's height worth of bleach, water to get the liquid to fully cover the stem. Plug the draught hole with Vaseline along with a dab to cover any insignia you deem worth keeping. Also, Vaseline the tenon. Well! I've forgotten. Luckily it was a BC military push bit stem so no real harm was done. Do it with a conventional tenon and you'll have a case of the shirt coming out of the wash 3 sizes smaller. The stem sits in the bleach solution for as long as you need to. Honestly, I've blackened the greenest stems in an hour or so's soak. Sure, if you dunk them in water they'll go green again. Don't do that. Grab some white tooth paste...










No.










No.










Yes, but not for your pipe.

Yes!! There you go. Plain old NORMAL toothpaste. You might have to go down to a food bank to get it anymore (or a dollar store?) but you want no-frills white toothpaste. Put a pea sized amount on your tooth brush. Now brush your teeth. Your wife is sick of smelling your rank pipe breath. Now put another pea sized amount on a rag. Rub it onto your pipe stem. When it starts to feel sorta warm in your hand or the paste is thinning out, buff it with a dry area of the cloth (it removes the paste from your stem). It should be shiny. Repeat as many times as desired.

When all of that is done, carnauba. The whole pipe! And you're done. The pipe should be beautiful. The stem should be black and glassy. You're done!

I left a few more specific things like restaining, regrading/rerounding, and sanding dings out. Those all fall into the more specific stuff and you might find them somewhere on the previous pages. If not, feel free to ask. I don't mind re-answering questions!


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## szyzk (Nov 27, 2010)

I'd give you RG again if I could, Kyle. You deserve it for the bacon toothpaste, if nothing else.

Can I dedicate a pipe to bacon toothpaste???


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## vrocco (Jan 13, 2012)

karatekyle said:


> Using a retort shouldn't be a problem at all. Alcohol doesn't damage gourd calabashes (to the best of my knowledge, I've never heard a story of a retort ruining calabash).


OK Thanks. What about replacing the cork gasket? I just noticed it seems to be missing from this calabash. Any tips for sources of gasket or what adhesives to use?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Hey, Kyle, you said, "Plug the draught hole with Vaseline along with a dab to cover any insignia you deem worth keeping. Also, Vaseline the tenon."

Vaseline on the tenon is a very good point in addition to the standard protection of the insignia, but why plug the draught hole? If the oxidation on the outside of the stem does indeed taste bad, the oxidation inside the stem would taste no better would it? What negative effects could arise from getting the bleach inside the stem?

Can you use onion dip flavored toothpaste?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

szyzk said:


> I'd give you RG again if I could, Kyle. You deserve it for the bacon toothpaste, if nothing else.
> 
> Can I dedicate a pipe to bacon toothpaste???


I have at least 3 pipes at any given time that are bacon dedicated. Tis the mark of a true connoisseur ound:



freestoke said:


> Hey, Kyle, you said, "Plug the draught hole with Vaseline along with a dab to cover any insignia you deem worth keeping. Also, Vaseline the tenon."
> 
> Vaseline on the tenon is a very good point in addition to the standard protection of the insignia, but why plug the draught hole? If the oxidation on the outside of the stem does indeed taste bad, the oxidation inside the stem would taste no better would it? What negative effects could arise from getting the bleach inside the stem?
> 
> Can you use onion dip flavored toothpaste?


I prefer to clean the inside using alcohol soak pipe cleaners rather than bleach. Bleach eats away at vulcanite and increases the size of the draught hole. If I really have a problem with it, I'll leave a bleach soaked cleaner in there for 15-20 minutes. But bleaching all sides of the vulcanite make it pretty brittle in what experience I have with that method. Especially in the tenon area.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

vrocco said:


> OK Thanks. What about replacing the cork gasket? I just noticed it seems to be missing from this calabash. Any tips for sources of gasket or what adhesives to use?


I'm sure they sell those corks somewhere. Heck if I know where though. Pimo pipecraft? And when it comes to adhesive, you've got me. Not superglue. Maybe email them with that question? Report back your findings!


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Cork is cork, right? I would check local hobby/craft stores. They might have something that could work for you.


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## Guest (Jan 19, 2012)

I've read this entire thread and absolutely loved it! I won an auction on an estate briar, hopefully it will be on this week's mail plane. The fleabay pictures were somewhat vague but it didn't look in too bad of shape, just a little dull. I may have to strip and refinish though. Or heck, I might even do it regardless! When I get it I'll post pictures and seek input


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## vrocco (Jan 13, 2012)

gahdzila said:


> Cork is cork, right? I would check local hobby/craft stores. They might have something that could work for you.


you are most likely correct. I sent an email to Pimo asking if they could give any guidance on the cork or adhesives. I'll let you guys know what I find.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

ProbateGeek said:


> I love the new look, Clifford - quite an improvement. But, how does it smoke?
> 
> p


Sorry I forgot to reply to this.

I've only smoked it a few times since. I don't really care for the way it smokes. It seems to smoke hot and wet with every bowl. The stem doesn't take a pipe cleaner very easily either. No regrets, I had fun playing with it and learned a lot in the process.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Which reminds me...

Since you mentioned varnish, Kyle, do you have any specific product you recommend? Whatever that little tomato of mine was finished with (polyurethane, I assume) was obviously not very heat resistant since it bubbled. Also, my Dr Grabow Big Pipe has a couple of small bubble spots where the hard gloss finish boiled off. Or maybe thinner layers would be more heat resistant? 

What about shellac? I saw it mentioned in passing in an old thread on another board, but the gentleman didn't give any details. I don't know anything about this stuff, but a little reading I've done seems to imply that shellac isn't as strong as polyurethane, but might be more resilliant to heat? Its a natural product as well (some kind of bug excrement or something). Any thoughts?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> Which reminds me...
> 
> Since you mentioned varnish, Kyle, do you have any specific product you recommend? Whatever that little tomato of mine was finished with (polyurethane, I assume) was obviously not very heat resistant since it bubbled. Also, my Dr Grabow Big Pipe has a couple of small bubble spots where the hard gloss finish boiled off. Or maybe thinner layers would be more heat resistant?
> 
> What about shellac? I saw it mentioned in passing in an old thread on another board, but the gentleman didn't give any details. I don't know anything about this stuff, but a little reading I've done seems to imply that shellac isn't as strong as polyurethane, but might be more resilliant to heat? Its a natural product as well (some kind of bug excrement or something). Any thoughts?


I prefer tung oil finishes. Typically, only raw tung oil is varnish free. I have had good results with Formby's tung oil finishes.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Decided to clean up a Briar Route pipe I got at xmas as part of the lots Audrey gave me along with the pipe racks. These pipes were made in Italy for Briar Route, Inc., which had a shop in Drexler, NY, closed now for 15 years. No telling who actually made them. Anybody know?

The drill looks good and it seems like a decent enough "cheapo". I might strip the finish off it and go au naturale, but right now I'm absolutely amazed by the stem. Made of clear amber lucite, it has taken me SIX alcohol soaked bristle cleaners to even begin to see the pipe cleaner inside! :shock: It hasn't been smoked all that much and I have a theory: The owner smoked it until there was so much gunk in the stem that he couldn't light it any more. Definitely a record tar pack in my experience! Can't even imagine...


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## Guest (Jan 27, 2012)

Kyle, I saw earlier in the thread that you heat the pipe over a candle to expand the pores and allow the oil to absorb better and for the excess to sweat out. Do you do this after every coat of oil? If so, before or after sanding down the with 0000 steel wool?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Pale Horse said:


> Kyle, I saw earlier in the thread that you heat the pipe over a candle to expand the pores and allow the oil to absorb better and for the excess to sweat out. Do you do this after every coat of oil? If so, before or after sanding down the with 0000 steel wool?


Sweating the pipe is what I do for a mineral oil finish. To make the pipe looks like a Nording natural finished pipe. Steel wool is used for raw tung oil. Tung oil varniches usually just need to be hit with a buffing wheel after they dry.


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## Guest (Jan 27, 2012)

karatekyle said:


> Sweating the pipe is what I do for a mineral oil finish. To make the pipe looks like a Nording natural finished pipe. Steel wool is used for raw tung oil. Tung oil varniches usually just need to be hit with a buffing wheel after they dry.


Ahhh ok! I have only been able to procure mineral oil, tung oil isn't available locally and I have yet to find a company willing to ship it out here, so I'll just be doing a mineral oil and then carnuba wax finish. I'll post up pictures of the fleabay acquisitions once I get them (hopefully Sunday) and see what all you guys would do, then post up pictures of the results when I'm finished


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Ok, I give up. Which one of you bozos is sneaking in here and coating the interior of this pipe with brown goo when I'm not looking? It must be one of you guys, IT MUST BE. There couldn't possibly have been this much crap inside this tiny little Kaywoodie!

Here's the pile of pipe cleaners so far just from the shank. I haven't started on the stem yet (soaking the stinger tip in everclear first).










and they're still coming out brown!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> Ok, I give up. Which one of you bozos is sneaking in here and coating the interior of this pipe with brown goo when I'm not looking? It must be one of you guys, IT MUST BE. There couldn't possibly have been this much crap inside this tiny little Kaywoodie!
> 
> Here's the pile of pipe cleaners so far just from the shank. I haven't started on the stem yet (soaking the stinger tip in everclear first).
> 
> and they're still coming out brown!


I just did some work on one of mmiller's pipes. An old Pete Shamrock. I literally had to ream the stem. Basically re-drilled the stem to drill out the caked on garbage. I had a quarter sized pile of tar dust on my workbench. I should've sent it to some unlucky snuffer uke: :lol:


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Bumpity bump!

That little Kaywoodie turned out to be a neat little pipe. I think the plethora of nasty pipe cleaners was due to the design of the pipe. It seems to have a void in the shank below the draft hole where moisture collects. Which means two things - I have to be particular about keeping it clean so it doesn't get that nasty again; and it gurgles with practically every bowl, but the stinger design ensures that the moisture doesn't get to my mouth. Despite the sound of gurgling with most bowls, it smokes surprisingly cool and dry.

Anywho...I saw my post above and thought i'd post a little update. I actually do have a question:

I've got a gorgeous, nearly pristine Peterson Sherlock Holmes. It's the original calabash shaped one. It's hardly been used at all, I think, and I got it for a song. The briar is a beautiful reddish stain. Apparently, though, the stain guy in the Peterson factory was rather sloppy, as the inside of shank is stained as well. After 4 or 5 everclear soaked bristle cleaners, the shank is clean (no more black/brown), but they still come out quite red. I just now filled it with salt/everclear to clear the ghosts, but now I'm wondering - is that stain residue going to affect the flavor of the pipe? Should I put more effort in and clean most or all of that stain out?

Also - suggestions on removing tarnish from the sterling band? I bought some ordinary silver polish from the grocery store, the kind used on silverware forks and such. Will that be ok? Any thing else I should be aware of working with sterling silver?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

As far as the stain, it shouldn't be a problem at all. Really nice pipes are generally taken care enough to not stain any of the interior but yelloboles were painted for long enough with little ill effect after a bit of smoke covered it up. As far as polish goes, the normal silver polish should be perfect. That's what I use!


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Great! Thanks again, Kyle!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> Great! Thanks again, Kyle!


You bet!


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

Somewhere in this thread I believe someone posted about refurbishing a meerschaum. Now I'm not saying I really refurbished mine, but I did do a little work on it, sort of flying by the seat of my pants. Here's the before picture of my meer, bought used for a very reasonable price from Pulvers' Briar back in November (Marty did me the favor of filing the draft hole a bit to improve the draw):










Well, after a little clean up and a month or so of smoking, it had colored a little, but I was not happy with all the little raised circles covering the bowl. The reticulated lattice was busy enough without all the raised little pips. Here's it only very slightly colored, with pips as prominent as a beauty pageant contestant with a fresh case of chicken pox (have I been drinking?):










I finally broke down and bought a pound of pure beeswax, and after fortifying myself with some very tasty Pacific Northwest IPAs, I got some very fine grit sandpaper and went to work. Block meerschaum is an amazing material - and much softer than I had imagined. The pips were off after only about 15 minutes of careful sanding, and I decided to give the inside of the bowl a bit of freshening up, too. The inside became incredibly smooth to the touch (though still black as pitch), and the outside returned pretty much to its original creamy color. While sanding off the pips, the scent of latakia was quite strong, and I came to realize this was most likely a fairly old pipe, smoked by someone with a taste for latakia (and perhaps nothing else), and that the pipe had most likely long been in need of a rewaxing. The project, with the old scents, was a pleasant experience.

Anyway, after the cleanup, I corked both the bowl and the shaft end and let it sit in the melted beeswax for 20 minutes or so. After it had cooled and dried, I only had to buff it up with a soft cloth. I've been smoking it at least 5 times a week since, and it's really starting to color well, though a bit splotchy - I don't mind:










Notice, no more pips!










My camera phone takes only mediocre photos, and the colors don't look quite right, but you get the picture:










So, if anyone is hesitating to do a little work on a meerschaum, no need to. p

And thanks again to Kyle for this thread.


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## Contrabass Bry (May 3, 2010)

Time well spent, I'd say! 

Props to you, Marty and Kyle!


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Nice meer, Terry!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Very nice job, Terry! Thing looks great. I love when meers color like that, it's almost like a fingerprint. I'd be so bored with a perfectly colored meer.


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## Old E. (Jan 12, 2012)

For lack of a better place to post this, and due to the fact that it is somewhat on topic, here it goes:

My father smoked pipes when I was a kid, and, therefore, has quite a few nice pipes. I need ot go check, but I know there are about 6 briars, and there used to be 2-3 meerchaums and there were a few others. Soo....

How do you know if one needs any type of restoration? Why couldn't i just pick one up and start smoking (after packing, of course)? 

Is there a way to determine the maker, should it not be obvious?

Just a cigar smoker here, but had some interest in this, simply b/c they are sitting there.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Old E. said:


> For lack of a better place to post this, and due to the fact that it is somewhat on topic, here it goes:
> 
> My father smoked pipes when I was a kid, and, therefore, has quite a few nice pipes. I need ot go check, but I know there are about 6 briars, and there used to be 2-3 meerchaums and there were a few others. Soo....
> 
> ...


This is the perfect place to post it! You very well could just pick them up and start smoking. But pipes require a lot of "preventative care" during use. Things like rewaxing stummels, slowing stem oxidation, reaming the bowl, keeping the rim char-free, etc. With any pipe that's been used, some amount of wear will result. Many pipe smokers elect to restore (or have someone else restore) said pipe for the sake of aesthetics and smoking quality. The taste of oxidized stems or ghosted bowls can be pretty unpleasant. Same with a bowl that hasn't been reamed properly or a stem filled with tar and resin; the ability to smoke is still there, the ability to _enjoy_ is what you may not have when un-restored.

The brand is typically discernable through stamping on the shank or notable marks on the stem. Some carvers put dots in different colors/numbers/areas that would lead you to believe it is a certain pipe. Four baby blue dots in a triangle would designate a Sasieni, a single white dot on the top of a rounded stem would lead you to believe you have a Dunhill, etc.


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## Old E. (Jan 12, 2012)

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like a good reaming and cleaning would be a good start.

I need to round them up and just check them out, see what's there.


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## labazro (Apr 27, 2012)

hi, i'm new to the site and have been reading through this particular thread. Of course, I am now trying to find a piece of information and cannot, so I have to ask: I am in the process of taking the impurities out of an old Savinelli with the no-iodine salt/Bacardi method. Anyway, after I do this and give the bowl a post scrubbing with a toothbrush, what next? i remember reading something about how to get the salt out and get the bowl ready to be smoked again. Please enlighten!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

I would recommend a cursory ream to get any extra junk out and then you should be perfect!


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

labazro said:


> hi, i'm new to the site and have been reading through this particular thread. Of course, I am now trying to find a piece of information and cannot, so I have to ask: I am in the process of taking the impurities out of an old Savinelli with the no-iodine salt/Bacardi method. Anyway, after I do this and give the bowl a post scrubbing with a toothbrush, what next? i remember reading something about how to get the salt out and get the bowl ready to be smoked again. Please enlighten!


After doing the salt-alcohol treatment, sometimes residual grains of salt will cement themselves in various places...particularly up top near the rim. Just carefully scrape them off, a Czech tool, or a bristle pipe cleaner, or a shank brush, or whatever small scrubby-scrapey device is available. A few alcohol soaked pipe cleaners (bristled are best for this) in the shank to make sure there's no residual salt in there as well. I also think it's a good idea to give a pipe several days to rest before smoking it. Other than that, nothing special.

In my experience (albeit quite limited compared to many of the gentlemen here), yucky sour tastes come from gunk in the stem and shank more often than from the bowl. Not to say doing a salt-alcohol isn't necessary...I do the salt-alcohol treatment on all of my estate cleanups, too. Just to point out that you should also make sure the shank and stem are squeaky clean - alcohol soaked pipe cleaners until they come out clean!


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## labazro (Apr 27, 2012)

Thanks to both you. I did the process and realized I really needed to dremel out the bowl first. There is a thick layer of resin coating. I jumped the gun with the alcohol/salt. So i acquired a dremel tool today and I am going to start over. All of this is new to me, including using this tool. So let's hope I do okay!! THANKS!


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

YIKES! A dremel inside the bowl?!?


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

Like surgery with a chain saw...?


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

I would avoid using any kind of power tool on a pipe (except for a buffer)... Use a pipe reamer, it is easier to control and you will get better results. The inside of the bowl needs to stay as uniform as possible and a dremel can easily put a gouge in the side of it. Besides a little bit of cake can be left intact so you don't have to go through the whole process of breaking it in again.


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## labazro (Apr 27, 2012)

HA! well. I should have mentioned I had a reamer too (albeit the wrong kind). My dremel is a low voltage model (and I used the nylon brush),. This particular dremel is probably great for polishing and such, but in the bowl it didn't have enough crank to do any of the harm I was surely capable of. Thanks God. I knew using, say my big drill with some metal dremel bits was bad news, which is why i got the dinky one. In the end I came up with two things: 1) I was pretty successful using three different pocket knifes, chipping and scrapping. However, I am having trouble telling exactly where the cake ends and the bowl begins, particularly in the bottom of the bowl (*any insights??). *I could tell the sides by feel, and they are smooth and even. Probably now ready for the alcohol/salt treatment. 2) The second thing I have learned is that I need to slow down. Do more research--here and on youtube--make sure my ducks are in a row befort I charge in. Also, I am buying real tobacco reamer!! THANKS!


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

I have some questions, maybe theyve been asked before not sure. 

I just got a Kaywoodie 13B off the bay and it seems the been in decent condition. From the pics its got a little cake, but perfectly smokable. Now is the salt and alcohol method for taking the cake out completely or just getting rid of nasty tasting stuff? Ive seen some other stiff out on the net that just says give it a little ream and go. 

Also here in MI all we can get is the 151 Everclear...is that ok?


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

loki993 said:


> I have some questions, maybe theyve been asked before not sure.
> 
> I just got a Kaywoodie 13B off the bay and it seems the been in decent condition. From the pics its got a little cake, but perfectly smokable. Now is the salt and alcohol method for taking the cake out completely or just getting rid of nasty tasting stuff? Ive seen some other stiff out on the net that just says give it a little ream and go.
> 
> Also here in MI all we can get is the 151 Everclear...is that ok?


I personally have never needed to do the salt and alcohol treatment even with all the estate pipes I have refurbished. I think it is more for removing ghosts and such as opposed to cake. I would use a pipe reamer to smooth out and even up the cake (if necessary). I personally don't like to remove all the cake because then you expose the briar and that is when it is the most susceptible to damage, also you would have to re break-in the pipe. As far as the pipe sweeteners I suppose they are fine, just they seem to be unnecessary if you have access to some booze. I use 151 Bacardi and it works great so I se no reason why the 151 Everclear wouldn't perform just as well.

Of course all of this information is a IMO type of thing and I am sure Kyle and possibly some others will give their opinions as well.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

So what just clean the bit and give it a smoke? If it tastes nasty the clean it if it doesn't just go with it? I mean can bacteria build up in the cake or anything like that?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

loki993 said:


> So what just clean the bit and give it a smoke? If it tastes nasty the clean it if it doesn't just go with it? I mean can bacteria build up in the cake or anything like that?


Most bacteria are very sensitive to heat and dryness. There aren't bacteria in the bowl of your pipe. Your stem, however, may harbor some flora. You clean the bowl for the taste of the tobacco, you clean the stem for the cleanliness of the pipe.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> Most bacteria are very sensitive to heat and dryness. There aren't bacteria in the bowl of your pipe. Your stem, however, may harbor some flora. You clean the bowl for the taste of the tobacco, you clean the stem for the cleanliness of the pipe.


This is true I would suppose that in the probably unlikely instance that anything would be living in there once you put the fire to it it would be dead. I guess Ill give it a smoke and see its it tastes bad or not, then go from there.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Ryan - clean the INSIDE of the stem and shank with alcohol (booze, not rubbing) soaked pipe cleaners. Estate pipes are often FULL of gunk in these areas. My Kaywoodie looked almost unsmoked on the outside, but it was particularly nasty on the inside. Use Everclear if you can find it, or else just the highest proof stuff you can get your hands on. If yours has a stinger, you can clean it with alcohol, too. Yeah, for sanitary reasons you should clean the outer part of the stem as well, but you shouldn't use alcohol as it will cause it to dull and oxidize. I just make sure there's no surface dirt/crust/gunk on the stem, wipe the stem off really good with a wet towel or something, then polish it with whatever it needs (toothpaste then paragon wax is my preferred method...it's been covered earlier in the thread). Yeah, it's been in someone else's mouth and it's about to go in yours....but you don't bring your own silverware to a restaurant, do you? 

The salt-alcohol treatment is for removing ghosts from the bowl. I always do it to estate pipes, but it's not absolutely necessary for sanitation. If you smoke a light Virginia and you can taste some old Latakia or goopy cherry blend or something in the smoke, then the salt-alcohol treatment will get rid of that.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!!!!!


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> Ryan - clean the INSIDE of the stem and shank with alcohol (booze, not rubbing) soaked pipe cleaners. Estate pipes are often FULL of gunk in these areas. My Kaywoodie looked almost unsmoked on the outside, but it was particularly nasty on the inside. Use Everclear if you can find it, or else just the highest proof stuff you can get your hands on. If yours has a stinger, you can clean it with alcohol, too. Yeah, for sanitary reasons you should clean the outer part of the stem as well, but you shouldn't use alcohol as it will cause it to dull and oxidize. I just make sure there's no surface dirt/crust/gunk on the stem, wipe the stem off really good with a wet towel or something, then polish it with whatever it needs (toothpaste then paragon wax is my preferred method...it's been covered earlier in the thread). Yeah, it's been in someone else's mouth and it's about to go in yours....but you don't bring your own silverware to a restaurant, do you?
> 
> The salt-alcohol treatment is for removing ghosts from the bowl. I always do it to estate pipes, but it's not absolutely necessary for sanitation. If you smoke a light Virginia and you can taste some old Latakia or goopy cherry blend or something in the smoke, then the salt-alcohol treatment will get rid of that.
> 
> Good luck and let us know how it goes!!!!!


Cool thanks. I actually didn't know about the outside of the stem, I was just gonna put it an everclear bath for an hour or so then clean it really good with pipe cleaners. I may do the salt and alcohol thing too, I just wanted to be sure it didn't remove the cake. I will definitely get some pics up once I get it, I think its a cool little pipe.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

Here it is, honestly I knew it was in good shape but I was even surprised at the condition anyway. Its obviously been smoked, but I would have to say not to much. There is a little cake but not too much and the bottom of the bowl is clean.

even came with the neat little case for it:






















































So Im not even sure, I dont even know if I need to sand or rasp the cake. I may just hit the inside of the bowl with some fire to kill any possible mold, give the stem a good cleaning with the Everclear and a pipe cleaner and give it a smoke. I honestly cant wait to see how it smokes.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Looks beautiful! Best of luck with the restoration!


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

That's a fine author, Ryan! A shape I really like, still absent from my collection.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> That's a fine author, Ryan! A shape I really like, still absent from my collection.


I really like it too, I think Im going to end up with more. I'm already eying some Save 320s now lol.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

I worked on it a bit last night. I was going to call it good, but I think it needs more work still. Even though it looked good the shank and stem were particularly nasty. The stem is good and clean now. I did get some oxidation from getting the alcohol on it but the toothpaste cleaned it up pretty good. I still have a couple spots I need to finish up, but its much better then it was. I had managed to get about half of it white. 

The shank on the other had was coming along, but the pipe cleaners are still not coming out clean yet. I think I need to find some kind of nylon brush, like a bore brush or something. That way I don't run through so many pipe cleaners. It would be nice to have something reusable. 

Also whats the difference between that Paragon wax and some other pure carnuba wax product?


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

loki993 said:


> Also whats the difference between that Paragon wax and some other pure carnuba wax product?


Pure carnauba must be applied with a buffing wheel, Paragon can be applied by hand.


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## Contrabass Bry (May 3, 2010)

Paragon is for ease of application. No buffing wheel required. 

Carnauba wax is a hard block and requires the friction/heat of a wheel to melt and distribute. Nothing beats carnauba for a hard, lasting, deep shine, but Paragon does a nice job of a light shine and protection.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

Ok so whats the difference between that and something that you would say find in an auto parts store, that's what I was referring to, carnauba car wax and the like? They have ones that are non toxic, obviously that's what someone would want to use on a pipe.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

You won't be able to find it in an auto store. You'll have to order pure carnauba online or buy it at a wood working store. Car wax is more like paragon. But paragon is actually made for a wood surface, not a vehicle's exterior. Don't put car wax on your pipes!


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## labazro (Apr 27, 2012)

I'm back and have been progressing rather nicely, after a few misteps, but I have studied this thread and youtube and I am getting developing feel for this new hobby. I have some cheap pipes I am been learning and experimenting on. Question 2 is why i signed on, but having caught up on the thread I found a new misstep--See Question 1. So, I bought Mothers Carnauba Cleaner Wax for my pipes, but apparently that was wrong. so just to verify:
1. Do I need to get rid of this Carnauba Cleaner Wax and find some paragon, as I don't have a real buffer? I already used this on one pipe, looks great, and I am wondering if it is really bad news? The stuff costs $12 and who wants to polish their car? But I am going to have to if I can't use it!
2. The real reason I signed on. One of my pipes had a super loose stem. Following several youtube videos advice, I used the method of heating up the tenon, inserting the butt end of a screw bit, and putting in cool water to cool off. Well, even though the bit did just fit in and to my mind seemed perfect, my stem is now--sigh--too big. Won't fit in a all. I could probably push it in with some elbow grease, but I obviously don't want to break the pipe. Any advice? I would try the lead pencil bit, but that won't help unless I get the stem in.
The only thing I can think of is a putting some fine sand paper on a bit and gently sanding the inside of the pipe (checking the results constantly), but I thought someone out there might have some special pipe voodoo.
THANKS!


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## Matt4370 (Jan 14, 2012)

labazro said:


> 2. The real reason I signed on. One of my pipes had a super loose stem. Following several youtube videos advice, I used the method of heating up the tenon, inserting the butt end of a screw bit, and putting in cool water to cool off. Well, even though the bit did just fit in and to my mind seemed perfect, my stem is now--sigh--too big. Won't fit in a all. I could probably push it in with some elbow grease, but I obviously don't want to break the pipe. Any advice? I would try the lead pencil bit, but that won't help unless I get the stem in.
> *The only thing I can think of is a putting some fine sand paper on a bit and gently sanding the inside of the pipe* (checking the results constantly), but I thought someone out there might have some special pipe voodoo.
> THANKS!


I would go the opposite route, I would sand the tenon by wrapping a fine sand paper around the tenon and twisting. Keep checking fit until you achieve what you are looking for. Easier to replace a stem, than the pipe. Just my :2


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Matt4370 said:


> I would go the opposite route, I would sand the tenon by wrapping a fine sand paper around the tenon and twisting. Keep checking fit until you achieve what you are looking for. Easier to replace a stem, than the pipe. Just my :2


Was just gunna say that. And yes, get paragon instead. You'll be much happier with the results.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

Anyone know where I could look to get a nice nylon brush for the shank of the pipe. Seems like a waste to blast through so many pipe cleaners. I've heard at the hardware store, but I checked and didnt see anything.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

loki993 said:


> Anyone know where I could look to get a nice nylon brush for the shank of the pipe. Seems like a waste to blast through so many pipe cleaners. I've heard at the hardware store, but I checked and didnt see anything.


Most online pipe shops sell them, I would imagine that B&Ms have them as well. you could also try a sporting goods store that sells guns and try to get a brush for a .22. I don't know if they make any nylon ones all the ones I have are metal, and I would avoid using them on a pipe.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> Most online pipe shops sell them, I would imagine that B&Ms have them as well. you could also try a sporting goods store that sells guns and try to get a brush for a .22. I don't know if they make any nylon ones all the ones I have are metal, and I would avoid using them on a pipe.


Yeah I though the same thing about sporting goods shops, but actually nylon bore brushes seem to be hard to come by. They're out there but you have to get them online.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

loki993 said:


> Yeah I though the same thing about sporting goods shops, but actually nylon bore brushes seem to be hard to come by. They're out there but you have to get them online.


Hmm, I have always gotten mine online Here WV SmokeShop/WV Merchandise - Pipe Cleaning Brushes (their pipe cleaners are pretty inexpensive also) I know that doesn't help you today though.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> Hmm, I have always gotten mine online Here WV SmokeShop/WV Merchandise - Pipe Cleaning Brushes (their pipe cleaners are pretty inexpensive also) I know that doesn't help you today though.


yeah online sure. When I said they were hard to find it was in B&M gun shops and sporting goods stores.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

I've looked for them in stores too, pretty tough to find.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

Ok so I got the Kaywoodie pretty clean. Im not messing with the cake for now, its pretty decent not too thick and fairly uniform. If it tastes funny them I may deal with it down the road.

I cleaned the heck out of the shank and it looks clean. However inside there is a groove, recess or whatever you would want to call it presumably the capture moisture. There is still some crud in there, but scrubbed it with a pipe cleaner and I probably got a lot of it out, but you just really cant get in there. So if I get in there good with a bristles pipe cleaner, it will still come out a bit dirty. 

Any ideas on how to get down in that groove?


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

No easy way about it, Ryan. Pipe cleaners soaked in alcohol. You can try bending them in half and/or bending a curve in them to help you, but you're just gonna have to go through a pile of pile cleaners. My estate Kaywoodie was nasty in the shank as well:


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Or order a shank brush. The one in that pic (on the plate, above the pipe, black with goo) is a free one that comes in a pack of Gloredo pipe cleaners. But a bunch of alcohol and a pile of pipe cleaners and a lot of time is what did more good than anything else.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

I have also found that Q-tips can be quite useful. a box of 375 for a few bucks can save you lots of pipe cleaners.


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

*Re: How To Restore DEAD MEERSCHAUM PIPES?*

Remember this one?










I've learned that you can drop a pipe on the concrete once, and if you're extremely lucky nothing bad comes of it. Drop it a second time, however, and . . .










Dammit.

At least the meer is still unscathed - what are the chances that a new stem will fit this pipe?


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

*Re: How To Restore DEAD MEERSCHAUM PIPES?*



ProbateGeek said:


> Remember this one?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I don't know man but thats a nice meer, good color. I say your lucky the bowl didnt break. I dont know a lot about meers but I would be willing to say you should be able to get a new stem for it.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

A new stem can be threaded to fit but you'd have to send it away I'd assume unless you live near a quality shop.


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

I've already contacted Dave Wolff (Walker Briar Works) and Ronni B (NightOwl Pipeworks), both of whom are willing to help out. However, I did the practical thing yesterday: superglue.

Next time I smoke it I will watch for any off flavors, but since the break is far from where it heats up, I'm thinking problem solved for now. NightOwl Pipeworks looks great (NightOwl PipeWorks - Custom Expert Briar and Meerschaum Pipe Repair), and I may send it in anyway (some day) to get new "plumbing".

p


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

My most recent acquisition, a pre-trans Barling I got from an antique show. Its for sure not in the greatest condition. Definitely needs some work and a full restore, but as far as I can tell its all original.










First off whats going on with the bowl, it almost looks like maybe someone scraped it in some places. I hope I can get it it least kinda round again. Though its really just aesthetics, It shouldn't affect to smoking at all its just the top. I supposed absolute worst case I can sand the top down, but I don't want to do that.










Heres a pic of some of the gouges in the side, though t it was good at first but its actually really blurry, sorry:










I'm not sure if I could tackle them by sanding or just by waxing. I may just leave them, a little "use" on a pipe is a good thing. I definitely want to try and bring out the grain though. So maybe strip whatever is on it right now and restain and re wax it maybe. Im not sure but I really want it to look good and pop when Im done with it.

Stem is pretty bad too, hopefully the toothpaste will do the trick. I think Ill give it an alcohol soak first though. I know it will oxidize it, but first things first.










No way Im putting that in my mouth.

Also the alcohol should soften or damage the stem at all will it?

This will get the full resto treatment. There is good bit of gunk inside, including old dried tobacco stuck to the bottom of the bowl. There isn't a ton of cake that I can tell, so I think I'm going to take it down to bare wood inside. Hopefully its not all gouged up in there.

I'm going to try and track the progress so Ill either post updates or maybe even make a dedicated thread to it.

Tonight it gets the Everclear/salt treatment to try and looses up some of the gunk in the bowl


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## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

That's a GREAT old Barling. It's been a while since I read up, but I'm pretty sure the 3 digit shape number, T.V.F. stamp, and Ye Olde Wood stamp combine to place it as a "Late Pre-Trans" period pipe. 
Which doesn't mean a lot in terms of potential re-sale value. But it does mean the pipe is probably around 50 years old. And, obviously, someone smoked this thing faithfully so you should have a fantastic smoker on your hands.

I've restored 5 or 6 pipes from this era. And have a couple pieces of friendly advice:
- The white stem stamp ("Barling" crossed with "Barling") is very fragile. This will rub away with any kind of abrasive or solvent. My advice is to cover it with a circular piece of tape before restoring. Better to have the cool old stamp with a bit of oxidation around it, than to lose it.
- Ream the pipe and do all your shank cleaning before doing any kind of Salt/Alcohol treatment. S/A removes ghosted tastes, but doesn't do much to loosen gunk.
- In fact, most of the "gunk" throughout the pipe will be crusty cake by now, so before you get it wet, get rid of as much as you can with a reamer, a drill bit for the draft hole, and a very thin knife blade for the mortise (I use $1.99 pocket knives from Sears, with a blade that's about 1/8" wide). The hardened gunk in there will take up 90% or your pipe cleaners, but you can remove most of it while it's dried without damaging the stem or draft hole. And it's easier to dump black dust than swab out black gunk.
- Soak the stem (with the stamp covered in petroleum jelly and/or tape) in an Oxi-Clean solution overnight. It's gentle on rubber, and will make the toothbrush treatment easier down the line.

Definitely show some progress shots as you get to work!

Best, 
Dave


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

ProbateGeek said:


> I've already contacted Dave Wolff (Walker Briar Works) and Ronni B (NightOwl Pipeworks), both of whom are willing to help out. However, I did the practical thing yesterday: superglue.
> 
> Next time I smoke it I will watch for any off flavors, but since the break is far from where it heats up, I'm thinking problem solved for now. NightOwl Pipeworks looks great (NightOwl PipeWorks - Custom Expert Briar and Meerschaum Pipe Repair), and I may send it in anyway (some day) to get new "plumbing".
> 
> p


I think you should be just fine as long as the glue has plenty of time to dry.



CaptainEnormous said:


> That's a GREAT old Barling. It's been a while since I read up, but I'm pretty sure the 3 digit shape number, T.V.F. stamp, and Ye Olde Wood stamp combine to place it as a "Late Pre-Trans" period pipe.
> Which doesn't mean a lot in terms of potential re-sale value. But it does mean the pipe is probably around 50 years old. And, obviously, someone smoked this thing faithfully so you should have a fantastic smoker on your hands.
> 
> I've restored 5 or 6 pipes from this era. And have a couple pieces of friendly advice:
> ...


It is that's why I snatched it. It was in this basket full of pipes the guy was selling. Ive seen a few Barlings on ebay that went for a little more them I wanted to spend. Some pre trans ones for a lot. I grabbed it because of their supposed excellent smoking qualities and this is probably my best chance to get close to one of these for little dollars. Plus the resto should be fun.

As for the gunk I was just thinking that, I just looked in the shank and the amount of dried tobacco on this thing is crazy.

anyway im going to see what I can get out of it without getting it wet, I be I can get most if not all out.

Ill keep updated with pics for you all.


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## labazro (Apr 27, 2012)

I posted the other day, but it seems to have not loaded. Thanks for the advice, sanding the tenon did the trick! It's perfect now.
I also have some paragon and will use it soon.

New question: I just obtained this old Frank Medico. When I pulled the stem out, all these wood chips fell out. My guess is that Frank Medico had a filter of some sort, which is a new one for me. Is this correct? Does the pipe need filters to be smoked? Can these filters still be obtained?

THANKS!! andrew


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## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

The two most likely scenarios:
- Previous owner developed an issue where the tenon didn't fit, and used cardboard or masking tape over the tenon to snug the fit up (I've seen this a lot, particularly in older pipes. . .back when utility reigned).
- There was a round 6mm paper filter, in which case most drug stores should sell a version (probably labeled "Dr. Grabow" by now) that will fit.



labazro said:


> I posted the other day, but it seems to have not loaded. Thanks for the advice, sanding the tenon did the trick! It's perfect now.
> I also have some paragon and will use it soon.
> 
> New question: I just obtained this old Frank Medico. When I pulled the stem out, all these wood chips fell out. My guess is that Frank Medico had a filter of some sort, which is a new one for me. Is this correct? Does the pipe need filters to be smoked? Can these filters still be obtained?
> ...


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## Contrabass Bry (May 3, 2010)

*Re: How To Restore DEAD MEERSCHAUM PIPES?*



ProbateGeek said:


> Remember this one?


Damn! The "de-pipified" meer has now been "de-stemified"! Grrrr!

Get her fixed, it's too nice of a pipe to have languish in a drawer of pipe junk...

@ Ryan,

Nice score! I LOVE my pre-trans Barlings. Get that one cleaned up and I can guarantee that you will experience "what makes a great smoking pipe" that you queried in another thread! Now the previous owner/s were a bit careless with the reaming, but should smoke fine just the same.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

labazro said:


> I posted the other day, but it seems to have not loaded. Thanks for the advice, sanding the tenon did the trick! It's perfect now.
> I also have some paragon and will use it soon.
> 
> New question: I just obtained this old Frank Medico. When I pulled the stem out, all these wood chips fell out. My guess is that Frank Medico had a filter of some sort, which is a new one for me. Is this correct? Does the pipe need filters to be smoked? Can these filters still be obtained?
> ...


Im not familiar with medicos, but from what Ive heard you can just take the filter out of you want. I had a pipe, a Grabow, with a filter and that's what I did. No issues at all. I think some Savs if you take the filter or the stem doesn't fit and you need an adapter that cones with the pipe. Thats kinda silly if you ask me, but whatever.


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

*Re: How To Restore DEAD MEERSCHAUM PIPES?*



Contrabass Bry said:


> @ Ryan,
> 
> Nice score! I LOVE my pre-trans Barlings. Get that one cleaned up and I can guarantee that you will experience "what makes a great smoking pipe" that you queried in another thread! Now the previous owner/s were a bit careless with the reaming, but should smoke fine just the same.


Indeed, that why I grabbed it up, I had read so much about them. It is being a bit difficult in the cleaning department though. There is this built up gunk in the shank that's proving difficult to remove. It was a bunch of old dried up tobacco, which I got out mostly and I don't know ,cotton maybe, from years of sticking pipe cleaners in there I suppose. Its just all stuck in there. It will take a bit but Ill get there. I'm taking my time with it to do it right.


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## Fuzzy (Jun 19, 2011)

Awhile back I picked up a Medico mixed in with a bulk purchase from fleabay. It had what appeared to be a cylinder made of cedar in it. Not so much as a filter but maybe some sort of moisture control thingy. Not sure, but this may have been some sort of replacement for what was supposed to be a paper filter.

This was a very old and almost unsmoked pipe that I gave away.


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## RupturedDuck (Jan 11, 2012)

loki993 said:


> I think some Savs if you take the filter or the stem doesn't fit and you need an adapter that cones with the pipe. Thats kinda silly if you ask me, but whatever.


That isn't what the adapter is for. The stem fits just fine without a filter.

Some people, me included, find that the draw on a Sav fit with the Balsa System is too open when you don't have one of those balsa wood thingies inserted. The adapter tightens the draw by making the diameter smaller. Cup O Joes carries a similar adapter for pipes fitted for a 9mm filter that I have shoved in an otherwise perfect Jirsa. I still think the draw is a little open though....

RD


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

RupturedDuck said:


> That isn't what the adapter is for. The stem fits just fine without a filter.
> 
> Some people, me included, find that the draw on a Sav fit with the Balsa System is too open when you don't have one of those balsa wood thingies inserted. The adapter tightens the draw by making the diameter smaller. Cup O Joes carries a similar adapter for pipes fitted for a 9mm filter that I have shoved in an otherwise perfect Jirsa. I still think the draw is a little open though....
> 
> RD


Interesting

Ok so progress on the Barling:



















Sorry for the blurry pics thats the best I could get with my phone.

So now the bowls more or less cleaned up. The finish is gone on the top of the bowl since I had to lightly sand it to get the black off. So now I want to refinish the pipe. Does the stain come off easily? I'm pretty sure I want to strip off all the wax and stain thats on it. Then restain it maybe in a bit of a different color. Basically what I want to do is really make the grain pop out. There was a pic of a pipe I saw that almost looked like copper because of the contrast of the grain to the rest of the wood.

If I stain it and decide I don't like the way it looks does it come off easily? I guess when I think of stain, or dye in this case, I think it penetrates the wood.

Also to polish it up, Id love to use carnauba wax, but I don't have access to a buffing wheel and I don't have the money to buy anything like that right now. How will the Paragon wax do? I assume I could always strip that off and rebuff it too at some point if I didnt like it.


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## RupturedDuck (Jan 11, 2012)

loki993 said:


> So now the bowls more or less cleaned up. The finish is gone on the top of the bowl since I had to lightly sand it to get the black off. So now I want to refinish the pipe. Does the stain come off easily? I'm pretty sure I want to strip off all the wax and stain thats on it. Then restain it maybe in a bit of a different color. Basically what I want to do is really make the grain pop out. There was a pic of a pipe I saw that almost looked like copper because of the contrast of the grain to the rest of the wood.
> 
> If I stain it and decide I don't like the way it looks does it come off easily? I guess when I think of stain, or dye in this case, I think it penetrates the wood.


Looking good! I have an old Patent Dunhill that I've been cleaning out off and on. When I did the salt/alcohol treatment, I used Rubbing Alcohol, which is kind of taboo around these parts with a lot of people. But I found that it stripped the stain off the pipe very quickly. I imagine that Everclear would do the same thing. My goal is to get the wood as light as possible, because I like starting from a very light colored wood and watch the wood darken as I smoke it more and more. Elliot Nachwalter sometimes uses Olive Oil as a finish, and that is what I plan on using for my Dunhill.

As far as wax goes, Carnuba Wax is the deal for the shiny finish. Paragon Wax is too soft, and won't last the way that Carnuba will. Your local B&M will have a buffing wheel in the back...I wonder if you asked them to use if for a bit one afternoon if they would be open to that?

RD


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

Here is the color Im thinking:










or this, but I like the first one better:










I do have other pipes I can test on before I do the barling. How would I get those colors?


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## tso-giannis (Feb 24, 2012)

Is there any short of glue or creem to fill in mouthpiece dentals for vulcanite stems?


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## Contrabass Bry (May 3, 2010)

Ryan,

If you can believe it, those are likely the same finishing techniques. The grain of the wood has more to do with how much light/dark comes though. Check out this thread on the pipemaker's forum on how to achive a contrast stain using a layered tannin/vinegar approach to lay the base "black" via a chemical reaction and not a stain that has the potential to smear or be pulled up be subsequent coats of stain. pipemakersforum.com • View topic - jet black wood

Too bad that Barling had it's bowl rim chewed/gashed. Might have been quite a looker as well...


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## Andrewdk (Feb 3, 2011)

Can I get a second opinion on some polish I bought?
Went to the local hardware store for carnubra wax, the only tin that had was huge and way more then I was looking to spend. Noticed a beewax polish made from beeswax, carnubra wax and white spirit, said could be used on unsealed and grained wood. Tried it on the bottom of a pipe I want to sand and repolish and it seems Ok, bought out the grain nicer then the old brown stain, no funky odour and no tsticky or leaving residue.

Sound Ok?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Andrewdk said:


> Can I get a second opinion on some polish I bought?
> Went to the local hardware store for carnubra wax, the only tin that had was huge and way more then I was looking to spend. Noticed a beewax polish made from beeswax, carnubra wax and white spirit, said could be used on unsealed and grained wood. Tried it on the bottom of a pipe I want to sand and repolish and it seems Ok, bought out the grain nicer then the old brown stain, no funky odour and no tsticky or leaving residue.
> 
> Sound Ok?


Could be good, could be bad. It might melt off as soon as you light up a bowl, that's the problem with wax mixes like that. Try it out, bring us your results!


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## Contrabass Bry (May 3, 2010)

Any thoughts on how to remove Paragon wax from the crevices of a sandblast?

I know, I know. They have stuff specifically for blasted/rusticated pipes... Just an experiment gone bad.

No manner of toothbrush or bristle will get in there. May have to resort to toothpicks and a whole lot of time...


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## loki993 (Sep 25, 2010)

Contrabass Bry said:


> Ryan,
> 
> If you can believe it, those are likely the same finishing techniques. The grain of the wood has more to do with how much light/dark comes though. Check out this thread on the pipemaker's forum on how to achive a contrast stain using a layered tannin/vinegar approach to lay the base "black" via a chemical reaction and not a stain that has the potential to smear or be pulled up be subsequent coats of stain. pipemakersforum.com • View topic - jet black wood
> 
> Too bad that Barling had it's bowl rim chewed/gashed. Might have been quite a looker as well...


Yeah too bad, but hey it adds character. Ill take a look at that thread


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Contrabass Bry said:


> Any thoughts on how to remove Paragon wax from the crevices of a sandblast?
> 
> I know, I know. They have stuff specifically for blasted/rusticated pipes... Just an experiment gone bad.
> 
> No manner of toothbrush or bristle will get in there. May have to resort to toothpicks and a whole lot of time...


No worries. The Halcyon they recommend for rust/sandb pipes does the same thing. Unfortunatly, I generally end up using a toothpick. Or smoke a bowl a little warm out of the pipe to melt it a bit then take to it with a toothbrush again.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Contrabass Bry said:


> Any thoughts on how to remove Paragon wax from the crevices of a sandblast?
> 
> I know, I know. They have stuff specifically for blasted/rusticated pipes... Just an experiment gone bad.
> 
> No manner of toothbrush or bristle will get in there. May have to resort to toothpicks and a whole lot of time...


MAYBE.

I can tell you this - I bought some Paragon wax, and when I opened it, it had separated....there was a clear liquid floating over a hard chunk of white stuff in the bottom. As recommended on another message board, carefully heating it in the microwave (15 seconds, take it out and check it, toss it in another 15 seconds, take it out and check it, etc etc) warmed it enough that it eventually softened enough that I could stir it up and use it.

Now...I don't recommend tossing your pipe in the microwave. But....careful heating of the stummel will probably help soften it. Like Kyle mentioned, I would at first try smoking it hard and heating it up, keep a soft cloth close by, and rub/hand buff the pipe while you're smoking. I would try that first and see how it works out.


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## Irfan (Dec 18, 2011)

Okay, I've got a question about using Fiebing's. I have a John Bessai pipe in reasonably good shape, but it had a scorched, rough rim. I sanded the rim to smoothen it, which removed the stain on that section. Because John Bessai did such a good job with contrast staining, I wanted to retain as much of that as I can. So, I did a very light sand of the bowl with 600 grit, followed by 1000, just to reveal some of the natural background color, so that the color of the bowl is consistent with the rim, but the original contrast stain is retained. Actually, it doesn't look too bad the way it is, but it might look better if I could darken the overall color.

So, should I dilute Fiebing's with alcohol a bit for a final overall coloring, so that it doesn't cover the stain underneath? Or is it okay to use undiluted Fiebings and then buff?

This is a first time experiment, I'm working on two pipes in tandem. One is a very mediocre pipe that I'm using to see what happens, before I move on to the Bessai. I've been meaning to get out my camera for this, but I don't have images yet.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Irfan said:


> Okay, I've got a question about using Fiebing's. I have a John Bessai pipe in reasonably good shape, but it had a scorched, rough rim. I sanded the rim to smoothen it, which removed the stain on that section. Because John Bessai did such a good job with contrast staining, I wanted to retain as much of that as I can. So, I did a very light sand of the bowl with 600 grit, followed by 1000, just to reveal some of the natural background color, so that the color of the bowl is consistent with the rim, but the original contrast stain is retained. Actually, it doesn't look too bad the way it is, but it might look better if I could darken the overall color.
> 
> So, should I dilute Fiebing's with alcohol a bit for a final overall coloring, so that it doesn't cover the stain underneath? Or is it okay to use undiluted Fiebings and then buff?
> 
> This is a first time experiment, I'm working on two pipes in tandem. One is a very mediocre pipe that I'm using to see what happens, before I move on to the Bessai. I've been meaning to get out my camera for this, but I don't have images yet.


You very well can dilute it with alcohol, many choose to!


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## Andrewdk (Feb 3, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> Could be good, could be bad. It might melt off as soon as you light up a bowl, that's the problem with wax mixes like that. Try it out, bring us your results!


That was the one thing I hadn't considered. Anyway I sanded back the bottom of the bowl and applied one coat as a test, allowed to rest for a week. Smoked a bowl of OGS the other day no residue or stickiness forming. It's a fairly thick walled pipe with a large open bowl so the outside never gets even warm to the touch. Planning on sanding back the rim and try another test bowl before I go the whole hog. I'm thinking 3-4 coats depending and two weeks to allow the polish/wax to fully dry and cure before smoking.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Andrewdk said:


> That was the one thing I hadn't considered. Anyway I sanded back the bottom of the bowl and applied one coat as a test, allowed to rest for a week. Smoked a bowl of OGS the other day no residue or stickiness forming. It's a fairly thick walled pipe with a large open bowl so the outside never gets even warm to the touch. Planning on sanding back the rim and try another test bowl before I go the whole hog. I'm thinking 3-4 coats depending and two weeks to allow the polish/wax to fully dry and cure before smoking.


What I might recommend trying is a tung oil -type method. Wax on, dry and cure, take superfine steel wool and buff gently. This will fill in all the microscopic fissures and pits in the briar surface. You'll end up with a wax coat that looks like polyurethane.


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## Irfan (Dec 18, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> You very well can dilute it with alcohol, many choose to!


Okay, I used a mixture of 50:50 red / medium brown, which was a great color, but more red than I anticipated -- almost like the old Dunhill red. I diluted it with an equal quantity of 96% alcohol, then applied it. It was still a thick color! I let it dry about overnight, then wiped off some of the excess stain gently with a rag damp with alcohol, then buffed with a worn piece of 1500 grit paper. By the end, the color was quite stable, further buffing didn't seem to result in much color coming off. I then applied Paragon wax. It looked great! Except that I'm finding when I smoke the pipe, it has a bit of a tendency to leave some stain on my fingers. Not much, but it's apparent.

I searched the forum. Some people seem to recommend using a very dilute solution of shellac, not to give it a garish shine, but as a color fixer. I'd like to try this, but -- how dilute is dilute when it comes to shellac? If I start with, say, 2lb cut, how much, roughly, should I dilute it? Also, should it be "dewaxed" shellac if one is going to apply wax later?

Thanks!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Irfan said:


> Okay, I used a mixture of 50:50 red / medium brown, which was a great color, but more red than I anticipated -- almost like the old Dunhill red. I diluted it with an equal quantity of 96% alcohol, then applied it. It was still a thick color! I let it dry about overnight, then wiped off some of the excess stain gently with a rag damp with alcohol, then buffed with a worn piece of 1500 grit paper. By the end, the color was quite stable, further buffing didn't seem to result in much color coming off. I then applied Paragon wax. It looked great! Except that I'm finding when I smoke the pipe, it has a bit of a tendency to leave some stain on my fingers. Not much, but it's apparent.
> 
> I searched the forum. Some people seem to recommend using a very dilute solution of shellac, not to give it a garish shine, but as a color fixer. I'd like to try this, but -- how dilute is dilute when it comes to shellac? If I start with, say, 2lb cut, how much, roughly, should I dilute it? Also, should it be "dewaxed" shellac if one is going to apply wax later?
> 
> Thanks!


Oh gosh, I really don't know. I'm not a shellac-er. Anyone else got this one?


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## Irfan (Dec 18, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> Oh gosh, I really don't know. I'm not a shellac-er. Anyone else got this one?


Well, I searched through this forum and a few wood work resources to see what I could find. Most resources seem to suggest that with shellac, less is more, just enough to seal the stain is what you are looking for. So, I mixed up a batch of what I was hoping would be 1/2 pound cut, although when I checked my figures, it was closer to a one pound cut. So, I diluted it a bit more and applied it with a pipe cleaner. It dried quickly, about six hours later, it was about ready to buff. I buffed with a worn piece of 1500 grit paper. I note that the shellac itself has a red tint that has darkened the color of the pipe a fair bit, not what I was planning, but it looks fine. It also adds quite a lot of shine, also not what I was really intending, but it's also good. It's not that garish, Dr Grabow look that I wanted to avoid. I'm just test driving it now. The shellac seems to be coping with some heat, and the transference problem seems to be solved. I'm planning on adding a layer of Paragon wax later today, although I wonder if it's even necessary, it seems like the shellac finish almost works by itself.

I'm quite happy with the results!

Thanks for the inputs from all members here.


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

Irfan, a picture (of your pipe) is worth a thousand words (of thanks). 

:biggrin:


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## Irfan (Dec 18, 2011)

ProbateGeek said:


> Irfan, a picture (of your pipe) is worth a thousand words (of thanks).
> 
> :biggrin:


Here you go. Thanks to everyone on the forum who provided useful information. I'm afraid I don't have "before" shots. The pipe wasn't in bad shape, except that the rim needed a bit of work, which in the end meant restaining the whole bowl, but so that the original contrast stain was retained.


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

That works - great color! Enjoy the fruit of your labors, my friend.


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## Deuce Da Masta (Dec 4, 2006)

looks good nice work. ive wanted to try and refinish a pipe but never wanted to risk ruining one of my pipes.


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## Irfan (Dec 18, 2011)

Deuce Da Masta said:


> looks good nice work. ive wanted to try and refinish a pipe but never wanted to risk ruining one of my pipes.


I had a few old, unmarked estates that I could tell were never really going to get smoked and sacrificed them to the gods. Well, I just used them to see what it was like to strip off the stain of a pipe. In fact, it was harder with the basket pipe, it had a much thicker, harder layer of ... something. Something shiny and dark. I thought for a moment that there was some nice grain underneath that, but a bit more sanding and that all came off. Do they somehow paint it or imprint a fake grain onto the pipe? It seemed like that. In the end, it was an innocuous blond color, not much grain to it. I smoothed it and buffed it and waxed it with Paragon wax first, just to see what that did before I tried it on the Bessai, which I'm quite fond of and which is a great smoker, so I don't want to stuff it up. Actually, I want to try out opening the airways on the basket pipe, too, for the same reason. It's got a bend in the stem, which will make it an interesting challenge.

So, get a few estate baskets for a few dollars to play with before you try it on a pipe that you care about, you should be right. I'm still going to leave my old Dunhills and my favorite Malaga well alone until I'm a bit more confident that I know what I'm doing. Or I may send them to a restoration service. I'm certainly smart enough to guess that I won't ever know what some people have been learning to do for decades by working quite hard at it! With stuff like opening airways, it seems that there's a good chance that even if you don't ruin the pipe, you might not do it as well as it should be done. With the staining, for example, I bet someone who knew what they were doing would be able to look at the original pipe and have a much better idea of what color it should be and how to get it that way. I was just doing trial and error mixes with the Fiebings, and luckily ended up with something not too bad -- although the original was much browner and less red.


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## labazro (Apr 27, 2012)

Hi all, been away a few months, working on my pipes here and there. Learning tons. I have a few questions. Some might be reiterations of what is already in this thread, but there is so much info it is easy to get confused.
1. When it comes to stripping a bowl, I've read here that people use acetone. I've never done this (mostly I sand), but I am wondering if this is used like a quick bath (5 min soak) or just rub, rub, rub. A while ago I tried a cloth and rubbing but I didn't feel like I was getting anywhere (That could be because all pipes seem to have all manner of finishing. The one inquestion might have been lacquered) Overall, I prefer to sand. Any reason not to?
.2. Just to review in terms of bowl refinishing. 1. you either stain or not stain. 2. Then oils (mineral or Tung. I have both and I am not sure which to use). 3. Then wax. (I am using paragon until I get a buffing wheel, then caruba) Does that all sound right? This is what I have been doing, but I read something earlier in this thread that made me think I was doing it wrong.
3. The stem I mentioned a few months ago that had the filter. I don't think it is vulcanite, so I am wondering what it is? plastic? It's a tanish brown. inside the stem is metal.
4. Lastly, are there any other clever ways to handle bowl burns on the side, other than sanding? Obviously a dark stain might do it, but i was wondering if there is any other clever maneuvers out there.
That's it. As soon as this site allows me I'd like to post some photos. I have been doing some full restorations on some cheap pipes to get a better feel, but they are looking pretty good, i think. I printed out quite a lot of this thread to review, but I'm having trouble narrowing a strong procedure.
THANKS!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Popping this back to life. Seems there have been some new pipers about lately who might not have noticed it.

Ah...I see. They made it vanish. Was wondering what happened to this thread. :spy:


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## Irfan (Dec 18, 2011)

labazro said:


> When it comes to stripping a bowl, I've read here that people use acetone. I've never done this (mostly I sand), but I am wondering if this is used like a quick bath (5 min soak) or just rub, rub, rub. A while ago I tried a cloth and rubbing but I didn't feel like I was getting anywhere (That could be because all pipes seem to have all manner of finishing. The one inquestion might have been lacquered) Overall, I prefer to sand. Any reason not to?


I was waiting for a more qualified person to respond, but no-one has. I think acetone just works to clean off dirty wax and perhaps lacquer. It's just the first step, you don't have to soak or even rub much. Anything that hasn't been removed by a quick, brisk rub with acetone will probably need sanding and buffing. Then you proceed with staining, waxing and so on. I usually remove the wax with acetone, sand/buff, then apply a mix of diluted stain/lacquer, with the lacquer component very dilute. It's more of fixing agent than to give the pipe a bright, shiny finish. Then buff again, the Paragon wax.

The only "problem" that I've had is the difficulty I've had finding blond lacquer, the stuff I've managed to get hold of is very red. Actually, not a bad color, but it would be nice to be able not to factor in the red from the lacquer when mixing the stains.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

labazro said:


> 1. When it comes to stripping a bowl, I've read here that people use acetone. I've never done this (mostly I sand), but I am wondering if this is used like a quick bath (5 min soak) or just rub, rub, rub. A while ago I tried a cloth and rubbing but I didn't feel like I was getting anywhere (That could be because all pipes seem to have all manner of finishing. The one inquestion might have been lacquered) Overall, I prefer to sand. Any reason not to?


*shrug* I don't see why not. Sanding will lighten the stain, so you might have to re-stain. I've only completely stripped one pipe, and I actually used a commercial chemical stripper...it worked great, but it also lightened up the stain a little (which was actually ok with me, as it was stained a little too dark).



labazro said:


> 2. Just to review in terms of bowl refinishing. 1. you either stain or not stain. 2. Then oils (mineral or Tung. I have both and I am not sure which to use). 3. Then wax. (I am using paragon until I get a buffing wheel, then caruba) Does that all sound right? This is what I have been doing, but I read something earlier in this thread that made me think I was doing it wrong.


Sounds good to me. I guess you could do a full refinish with mineral oil, but it will be a very matte finish. Tung oil gives a nice shiny finish.



labazro said:


> 3. The stem I mentioned a few months ago that had the filter. I don't think it is vulcanite, so I am wondering what it is? plastic? It's a tanish brown. inside the stem is metal.


:ask: No way to know for sure without looking at it. Pics would help. If it is brown, it could still be vulcanite, just highly oxidized...or it could be acrylic/lucite...plastic is possible, I suppose, if it's a really cheap pipe. What kind of pipe is it? Where is this metal? It has a metal tenon?



labazro said:


> 4. Lastly, are there any other clever ways to handle bowl burns on the side, other than sanding? Obviously a dark stain might do it, but i was wondering if there is any other clever maneuvers out there.
> That's it. As soon as this site allows me I'd like to post some photos. I have been doing some full restorations on some cheap pipes to get a better feel, but they are looking pretty good, i think. I printed out quite a lot of this thread to review, but I'm having trouble narrowing a strong procedure.
> THANKS!


If you're gonna do a full strip and refinish anyway, sanding would be your best bet _if it truly is burned._ If it is blackened around the rim, it may just be tar buildup....which will come off with some spit and a rag and a lot of elbow grease.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

I've actually got a question, myself:

I got an unsmoked Cristiano bent bulldog in an estate lot from Marty Pulvers. Great looking pipe, and I've smoked it twice, and I think it's gonna be a great smoker once it gets broken in and gets some cake going, so I'd like to get this worked out. The shank and bottom half of the bowl are rusticated, and the top half of the bowl is smooth. It has a glossy finish over the rustication, which probably looked fine when it was first applied, but it is flaking off in a few places and basically looks like garbage now. So I am going to completely strip the pipe (gonna use the chemical stripper I used before), and just refinish the whole stummel with tung oil.

SO.....this is actually my first bulldog at all. It has (as most bulldogs do, I suppose) a groove around the bowl where the two "cones" meet. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. The grooves are black matte, so I don't want to get any tung oil or wax or anything down in there. Any ideas on masking off these tiny little grooves? The best idea I can come up with is to maybe fill the grooves up with modelling clay or some other kind of putty (though I haven't figured out exactly what....hopefully something that will be easy to remove and not leave any residue!) and then scrape them clean when I'm finished. Thoughts? Suggestions?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

gahdzila said:


> SO.....this is actually my first bulldog at all. It has (as most bulldogs do, I suppose) a groove around the bowl where the two "cones" meet. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. The grooves are black matte, so I don't want to get any tung oil or wax or anything down in there. Any ideas on masking off these tiny little grooves? The best idea I can come up with is to maybe fill the grooves up with modelling clay or some other kind of putty (though I haven't figured out exactly what....hopefully something that will be easy to remove and not leave any residue!) and then scrape them clean when I'm finished. Thoughts? Suggestions?


Dental floss?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Cliff gave a lot of good stuff on this, I'll just run down my thoughts quick.



labazro said:


> 1. When it comes to stripping a bowl, I've read here that people use acetone. I've never done this (mostly I sand), but I am wondering if this is used like a quick bath (5 min soak) or just rub, rub, rub. A while ago I tried a cloth and rubbing but I didn't feel like I was getting anywhere (That could be because all pipes seem to have all manner of finishing. The one inquestion might have been lacquered) Overall, I prefer to sand. Any reason not to?


A bath would not be a good idea. Something tells me acetone wouldn't taste great inside the bowl and it'd probably do a hell of a job destroying any cake (or ruining it's viability). Use an acetone soaked rag if possible. On a lacquered/varnished/shellac'd pipe, it will take a lifetime to remove the finish. So with some drug store pipes, basket pipes, and Italian made pipes (who seem to like using a bit of shellac to hold the stain in; I know Nording does this and so does Peterson), you may have better luck with sanding. A word of warning though, put a LOT of time into sanding. Using automotive grade papers with lots of zeros, my man. Wax finished will magnify even the smallest scratches left from sanding.



labazro said:


> 2. Just to review in terms of bowl refinishing. 1. you either stain or not stain. 2. Then oils (mineral or Tung. I have both and I am not sure which to use). 3. Then wax. (I am using paragon until I get a buffing wheel, then caruba) Does that all sound right? This is what I have been doing, but I read something earlier in this thread that made me think I was doing it wrong.


The oils would more be used _instead_ of the wax. Mineral would give it a wet wood look, tung is a bit shinier, wax is much shinier, shellac is glassy.



labazro said:


> 3. The stem I mentioned a few months ago that had the filter. I don't think it is vulcanite, so I am wondering what it is? plastic? It's a tanish brown. inside the stem is metal.


Sounds like you've got a stinger in the stem. If it is an old american made drug store pipe, you may have vulcanite on there (which is hardened rubber). Lucite probably wouldn't go very brown with age, just matte black from wear. If you rub a rag quickly over the stem and it smells, you've got vulcanite. If not, it's lucite (plastic) and just needs a buff.



labazro said:


> 4. Lastly, are there any other clever ways to handle bowl burns on the side, other than sanding? Obviously a dark stain might do it, but i was wondering if there is any other clever maneuvers out there.
> That's it. As soon as this site allows me I'd like to post some photos. I have been doing some full restorations on some cheap pipes to get a better feel, but they are looking pretty good, i think. I printed out quite a lot of this thread to review, but I'm having trouble narrowing a strong procedure.
> THANKS!


If the burn is on the side, you've found my Achilles' heel. I've tried using acetone to wick the darkened areas to a lighter color but I can't seem to really make a difference. I have an old Cadogan era Orlik pipe that has a darkened mark on the bowl and I've had a hell of a time trying to reverse that. It may be unfixable, it may be something to ask a better man than I. Best of luck with it!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

freestoke said:


> Dental floss?


A glob of vaseline would be my first try.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Vaseline would probably work fine. Thanks.

Here's a pic, so you can see what's wrong with this thing. Notice the black spots to the right of my thumb and to the left of my index finger - those are spots where the finish has completely flaked off. There are a couple more spots like that on the other side, too. Also notice on the smooth area with the signature that there's some "bubbling up" there as well. Just a poor choice of finishing by the maker, I guess, as it was unsmoked when I got it (I have no idea of the age of the pipe, but it was obviously unsmoked).


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## labazro (Apr 27, 2012)

Thanks for the responses, guys. Some follow up:
1. KARATEKYLE: Your response about oils instead of wax surprised me. I could have sworn in this thread you've advocated a multilayered approach that started with oils and ended with wax. Clearly, I am a complete beginnner in working with wood and this process. Maybe you could provide a breakdown of what you do from start to finish with a bowl that you decided to strip and restore.

2. As for the aformentioned stem, below is the best photo i could get. my camera is lousy at closeups. But I hope this helps. the pipe is "VFQ" The stem is light brown with a metal tenon all the way through, which made me think it wasn't vulvanite. This the pipe that had an old wood filter in it. Anyway,there are some rough spots on it and I'm trying to figure out the best way to restore and now ruin.


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## labazro (Apr 27, 2012)

Another stem problem: I have this Savoy briar with a brown stem. The stem was very rough to the touch and dirty. For stems this messed up, i usually go right to a bleach soak for an hour and then go at it with a Magic eraser with great results. However, that hour turned into four--oops. So I pull it out, give it a good rinse and dry. Then go at with a magic eraser. 

Now it appears I maybe bleached all the brown out of it (some sort of dye?) as it is mostly black now. Not the result I hoped for, but altogether not a big disappointment. I"ve been at it for an hour and some parts I can't get black (at least so far.), so I have this kind of ugly two toned thing going.

All I can think to do is keep at it with the Magic Eraser. I'm eyeing the 500 sand paper too. Anyway, thought I'd put up a post to see if anyone is around anymore and if there were any thoughts.


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## stonecutter2 (Jul 12, 2012)

I welcome any and all advice.

I have an old pipe (not THAT old) that I'd like to restore/freshen up a bit.

I have a pipe marked "Irish Seconds" that also has a little stamp "made in the Republic of Ireland." It's a briar that has a very light coloring to it. I believe it is unfinished. I bought it around '92 or '93, I think. It was stashed away in an old trunk in the basement for years, that my stereo has sat on. 

The pipe itself was never heavily used, it seems in excellent shape. The stem is somewhat bitten on (I try not to bite my stems but do on occasion), but still firmly fits onto the pipe. There used to be a filter in the pipe that is now gone.

So, my questions:

First and most important, said trunk that the pipe was in also at some point held incense. And the trunk still features that incense smell. The pipe smelled of it at first, but has been airing out for the last few days in my basement. It now lightly smells of it. Is this pipe toast, or is there a way to expel that odor? I was thinking a cheap cigar box and some newspaper wrapped around it, but didn't know if you had some other ideas.

Second, I am considering putting some cotton balls into the bowl, and dripping some vodka or something into it, and letting the cotton soak up the old nastiness in the bowl. It was lightly used, but I'd rather try to start fresh again now that I'll half know what i'm doing instead of NOT knowing what I'm doing. Good idea? Is there a better way?

Third, the pipe appears to be unfinished briar - it has a lighter color to it, which when wetted has some nice color. What should/could I finish this with? Or should I leave it and let it get a hand rubbed finish? Does briar get "hand rubbed" over time?

Thanks for any help/advice!


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

They say a picture's worth a thousand words (or in your case, three hundred, forty-one) ... :nerd:


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## stonecutter2 (Jul 12, 2012)

ProbateGeek said:


> They say a picture's worth a thousand words (or in your case, three hundred, forty-one) ... :nerd:


Here ya go:






























Not sure you can smell the incense from where you are, though  I did come up with the idea of just sticking it into a cigar bag with some cherry pipe tobacco for a week or so, to try and dispel the bad smell.


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

Mike, have you given any thought to a salt treatment? Surely that's been mentioned in this thread somewhere.


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## stonecutter2 (Jul 12, 2012)

ProbateGeek said:


> Mike, have you given any thought to a salt treatment? Surely that's been mentioned in this thread somewhere.


I did think about salt, but then read somewhere that salt might not be a great idea. I can't remember why. I'll read around a bit more. I'm hoping the pipe napping in a baggie of CAO CherryBomb does it some good to get rid of the incense smell.


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## Kevin Keith (Jan 24, 2010)

The salt treatment is pretty extreme, but effective. I've had luck is dispelling bad, bad smells by removing the stem, covering the mortise with a finger and pouring a little 151 rum in the bowl. I tilt it back to let the rum run into the shank and swirl it around for just a minute. Dump it via the shank, careful not to let any alcohol touch the finish. After dumping the booze, scrub it out with the bristle brush and then fluffy cleaners until clean. Let it dry overnight.


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## snagstangl (Aug 21, 2010)

A couple of questions:

1. Can you sand down a meer that has been lots of dings and then reapply wax?

2. I bought a number of pipes at 5 bucks a crack off ebay, I thought I needed some projects. Almost all the mouthpieces are broken or chewed to crap, can i order the closest size after measuring the stem hole and sand it down to fit?

3. Last one, I have a mincer era custombilt, the draw holes don't come close to meeting up, should I widen them so i can run a pipe cleaner through or just leave it as is so I dont ruin the value?

Thanks for any suggestions


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

snagstangl said:


> 1. Can you sand down a meer that has been lots of dings and then reapply wax?


I can speak only to this one. Yes, you can. I used some very fine sandpaper (don't remember which), and it was incredibly easy to do. Work cautiously, and with as little pressure as possible until you get the feel of it. It sands down VERY quickly.

As I was sanding mine, the smell of ancient latakia filled the room - it was a very pleasant experience. Here's a before and after...










I couldn't stand the little pips all over the pipe - they were gone in no time. Then once bathed in the beeswax, the coloring really began to come out. Someone was a latakia fiend with this old pipe, for sure. Good luck!

EDIT: read up on the beeswax bath before trying. I used corks to close up the openings. I suggest that once you place the bowl in the melted wax, you remove it from the heat - you'll have to move it about yourself, as meer floats.


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## YoungCurmudgeon (Jan 23, 2013)

Ok well now I gotta go scour the local antique stores.


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## range rat (Mar 28, 2013)

Kyle,
The bug bit me and I am accumulating the various stuff needed to refinish/restore pipes. Just picked up a bench grinder and polishing pads. Could you describe when and how you would use a bench grinder in the process of refinishing a briar pipe? I read about half of these postings and lost patience, so going directly to the source.
Second question: what colors would be in your Feiblings starter pack?
Thanks in advance


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## range rat (Mar 28, 2013)

Well, not sure this thread is still alive but I thought I might document how I approached my pipe restoration project. You see, I bought a large used humidor on eBay that happened to come with five old beat up pipes, a tobacco pouch and about 8 ounces of dry tobacco (which, when rehydrated wasn't bad at all). The pipes include an Essex, a Surrey, a Straight Grain, a Kaywoodie and a no-name, all smooth wood, no blast or rustication. My goal was to restore these pipes to be good, every day smoking pipes that I would be proud to use having restored them myself.

Anyway, here is the process I used:

1. Disassembly of pipe briar from stem. Put the stems aside
2. Scrape bowl using pipe reamer back to the wood or as close as I could get
3. Vigorous rub down of briar with acetone and nubby rag to remove whatever coating might be over the stain
4. 0000 steel wool scrub down that did a great job of removing stains, burn marks and minor dents and scratches
5. Packed the briar with kosher salt, filled with EverClear. Kept filling as it evaporates.
6. Waited 24 hours
7. Dug out salt/alcohol mix, fill bowl half way with EverClear and then used pipe cleaner to ream out the shank.
8. Wiped the whole briar down with clean shop towel until dry.
9. Buffed the entire surface of the briar with polishing wheel on Ryobi bench grinder (gave the wood a nice gloss and smooth surface)
10. Applied successive layers of mineral oil over 12 hours
11. Applied two layers of tung oil at 24 hour intervals, polishing with microfiber towel
12. Applied two layers of Paragon Wax at 24 hour intervals, polishing with microfiber towel

The wood really came alive and brightened up quite a bit.

The stems are obviously very old. One has a piece of vulcanite (or whatever it's made of) missing from the mouthpiece but it's still smokable. The other four are just old stems, highly oxidized and dreary. I considered chlorinating them but have so far held off, not sure if I would ruin them, and thinking that they might not be so easy to replace. 

So far, here is what I have done:

1. Using EverClear and pipe cleaners, I cleaned the interior thoroughly. They weren't too bad inside.
2. I took a razor and gently worked off some of the heavy oxidation by the mouth piece where the plastic formed an edge. It was really just gentle scraping and didn't scratch or harm the stem.
3. I took a toothbrush and some Barkeeper's Friend and worked the stems to try to break up the oxidation. I wasn't that impressed with the result although some came off. I used my finger and also a rag to apply more pressure and it seemed to work a bit better. Still, bite marks and scuffs still existed along with some discoloration. I may have used my 0000 steel wool on some of the stubborn patches but wasn't aggressive at all with it.
4. Then I turned on the bench grinder with polishing wheel and shined up each stem. This turned out to be a good idea and I think it added a bit of glossy shine to the stems. Don't forget to wear eye protection.
5. Finally, I applied Paragon Wax to the stems which did a nice job of preserving my progress and adding some depth to the color and appearance.

The final result made me happy. The wood looks great, the exposed metal pieces are also very presentable and the stems are very acceptable. I should have taken "before" pictures as the contrast with the final result would have been fun to see.

I hope this helps someone out there doing a pipe restoration for the first time. This was my first time and I found this thread to be very helpful in steering me in the right direction.

My best to you.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Sorry for disappearing David! Sounds like you did a heck of a good job on those pipes, that all sounded like a solid game plan. The only thing I'd add is my favorite stem trick: toothpaste. Take some normal white paste and use that with a rag to polish the stem, that will make' em really glow if they aren't already!


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## range rat (Mar 28, 2013)

Hi Kyle, I did try toothpaste but not the old timey stuff. It just got gooey so I moved on to the Barkeeper's Friend. I will hunt down a tube of the old style toothpaste and try again.
Thanks for the encouragement.


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## steinr1 (Oct 22, 2010)

range rat said:


> Hi Kyle, I did try toothpaste but not the old timey stuff. It just got gooey so I moved on to the Barkeeper's Friend. I will hunt down a tube of the old style toothpaste and try again.
> Thanks for the encouragement.


I use an automotive paint cutting compound (T-Cut) to clean off oxidation and polish stems. Using a pipe cleaner soaked in this stuff allows you to remove the oxidation from the inside of the stem - an oft forgotten area. Oxidised vulcanite can give a horrible taste. All done "manually". A lot of work, but eventually all the oxidation will go while removing the minimum of material from the stem. I often leave a bit around any stamping on the stem to prevent complete loss of that detail.

I'm not so sure about the use of mineral oils on a pipe. I'd stick with vegetal dyes for recolouring, if needed, and simply use carnuba wax to give the final shine. Briar is a very hard wood and will take a natural gloss without even this (as I'm sure you have noticed).


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## labazro (Apr 27, 2012)

Been awhile, but I've been steadily restoring pipes, probably 14 or 15 by now. Anyway, I am going to tackle a rusticated Curva Italy pipe. The pipe has been well used, and the bowl's finish is worn off a good deal. Like many rusticated bowls I find the color too dark anyway so I am going to take a crack at it. Think I might use a read stain once it's ready. But i have to strip it first! If memory serves, acetone is the best way (I usually sand smooth pipes). So has anyone done this that can offer any helpful hints? Or tell me how it usually goes. I imagine taking some acetone, a rag, a toothbrush and wondering why it is taking so long. Is that about how it goes? Do you rub some acetone on and let it sit for a minute or two? I've never used the stuff for anything. Anyway, any and all thougths are welcome.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Depends on what it's finished with. I refinished a pipe that had a thick heavy coat of polyurethane (or something similar). I used a chemical stripper made for wood furniture (Formby's) - worked great, but definitely faded the stain. The stuff I used was like a gel, I used a thick heavy rag (chopped up jeans, IIRC) to just rub it in and rub it off. I then let it sit for a while so the chemicals would evaporate, then lightly sanded it. Then refinish.


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## steinr1 (Oct 22, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> Depends on what it's finished with. I refinished a pipe that had a thick heavy coat of polyurethane (or something similar). I used a chemical stripper made for wood furniture (Formby's) - worked great, but definitely faded the stain. The stuff I used was like a gel, I used a thick heavy rag (chopped up jeans, IIRC) to just rub it in and rub it off. I then let it sit for a while so the chemicals would evaporate, then lightly sanded it. Then refinish.


Agreed, gel paint strippers are probably the best idea for a rusticated pipe. They stand the best chance of removing everything from the little recesses. One point, it's best to dab or stipple on and similarly remove without rubbing as that can press the paint residue deeper into recesses. The paint should lift and be "peeled" or just washed off.

I believe that Formby's is one of the gentler ones. Acetone and/or toluene? The Big Kahunas are the dichloromethane (DCM) based ones. DCM is being phased out of many strippers as it is nasty. Goggles, gloves and if you are using it for long periods, a respirator. Get the smallest drop on your skin and you will know about it. They WILL remove anything. Post treatment is normally by washing in lots of water so it's debateable how suitable for pipes they might be. Briar will dry. Part of the curing process is boiling, but after carving that might not be the best idea. I'm also a bit dubious about DCM based strippers as they can cause respiratory problems. You's need to be pretty certain that all the chemicals were removed before using a DCM stripped pipe. I know to my cost that the tiniest trace, otherwise undetectable, is still very active. A second stripping and repaint because of paint bubbling is annoying.

Good luck and be careful...

Or maybe bead blasting? Gentle on the wood and no worries about chemicals. Can't be more than a couple of minutes work for a friendly metal refinisher. Bet they've never been asked to do a pipe. They'll think it's for an engine exhaust rather than a human inlet.


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## labazro (Apr 27, 2012)

well, I tried the bead blasting and it worked great! getting everything even was a bit of a challenge, but I am happy with the results. I will try to get a photo up when I finally get around to finishing this guy.


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## steinr1 (Oct 22, 2010)

labazro said:


> well, I tried the bead blasting and it worked great! getting everything even was a bit of a challenge, but I am happy with the results. I will try to get a photo up when I finally get around to finishing this guy.


Brilliant! Sounds like you might have done the blasting yourself. I'd love to have the facilities to do that, but on a scale that would deal with motorcycle components. (A friend stripped a frame using one of those hobby-scale spot blasters. Took absolutely ages...)

Post a piccy of the blasted pipe before refinishing if you can. I'd like to see that.


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## labazro (Apr 27, 2012)

Here you go. Actually, my uncle had the equipment. We blasted two pipes, the first as R&D. I hope this photo comes through.


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## jco3rd (Apr 1, 2013)

Hey Kyle! I have not so much of a restoration question as a repair question...



Any suggestions? lol.


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## Gandalf The Gray (Jul 22, 2013)

jco3rd said:


> Hey Kyle! I have not so much of a restoration question as a repair question...
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions? lol.


 How much of the shank broke off?


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## steinr1 (Oct 22, 2010)

jco3rd said:


> Hey Kyle! I have not so much of a restoration question as a repair question...


Nasty place to break. If it's a relatively inexpensive pipe and/or one without sentimental value (i.e. nothing to lose...), I'd do this:

Bore out the shank and bowl to take a brass tube of appropriate I/D. Line the entire length of the bore with this. No change in diameter to catch a pipe cleaner. Interference fit in the existing bore opened out to suit. Thickest walled tube you can find that fits. The two parts should still line up perfectly well and the break looks fresh and clean so hopefully will close fully. Drill three or four holes at an angle through the shank into the stub of the bowl avoiding the new liner tube. Different angles to give a bit of torsional integrity. Don't cross the streams! Either push brass pins (interference fit again) or better still, screw in appropriate thin threaded brass rod. End the pins below the surface so a bit of filler can be used to cover. Filler, if any, to the break should be cosmetic only. Steel can be used throughout. Better strength, but risk of rusting.

Voila! A rival to Frankenpipe.


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## jco3rd (Apr 1, 2013)

Gandalf The Gray said:


> How much of the shank broke off?


This much:



Robert thank you for the suggestion. What do you think about doing that, and then just wood glue to hold it together instead of brass pins or threaded rod?


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## Gandalf The Gray (Jul 22, 2013)

jco3rd said:


> This much:
> 
> 
> 
> Robert thank you for the suggestion. What do you think about doing that, and then just wood glue to hold it together instead of brass pins or threaded rod?


I am no expert on restoration. But I would maybe just sand both the bowl and the shank flush and then try to recombine them using either wood glue or some type of epoxy.


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## steinr1 (Oct 22, 2010)

jco3rd said:


> What do you think about doing that, and then just wood glue to hold it together instead of brass pins or threaded rod?


The bowl will get hot and the glue will fail, I think. You can try glue, but I wouldn't hold out much hope for a permanent fix. The inner tube thing would be under considerable strain if the pins were left out. A good thick-walled steel tube would do the job with just glue, I'd think. I believe that professional repairs are either dovetailed or reinforced with a band or both.


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## Gandalf The Gray (Jul 22, 2013)

Just spent some time on a pipe today, rusticated it a little bit. The pipe itself had some dings and surface filler in it so I decided why not test out rusticating. My question is now, what would I use to seal the rusticated area? I coated the entire pipe with some olive oil, but I am not sure if that is sufficient enough of a sealer?

Before:


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## Gandalf The Gray (Jul 22, 2013)

After:


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## jco3rd (Apr 1, 2013)

Nice!!

What did you use to rusticate it?


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## Gandalf The Gray (Jul 22, 2013)

jco3rd said:


> Nice!!
> 
> What did you use to rusticate it?


Hey, thanks John. I thought it turned out pretty good. I used a modified Phillips screw driver.


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## jco3rd (Apr 1, 2013)

so kind of just use that as a gouge in the area you rusticated? The results are pretty awesome. How did you make the tool, looks like you drilled out the tip a bit?


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## Gandalf The Gray (Jul 22, 2013)

jco3rd said:


> so kind of just use that as a gouge in the area you rusticated? The results are pretty awesome. How did you make the tool, looks like you drilled out the tip a bit?


I used a simple battery powered dremel to make the tool. Most dremels come with a cutting tool, I cut the tip off and then simply created an "X" pattern over the cut tip. You are right, I gouged the wood out, pushing into the wood and then twisting. The closer you twist each gouge you get the finer "rustic" look, and the farther away you get the peaks of the wood.  
I was reading up and I think I am going to give it a layer of clear Shellac, Using a soft brush to buff the shellac in and then a soft cloth to polish it up. All in all I am happy with it.


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## ProbateGeek (Oct 13, 2010)

Gandalf The Gray said:


> . . .All in all I am happy with it.


I think we all approve - pretty pipe.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Gandalf The Gray said:


> All in all I am happy with it.


Wow, I can't believe I missed this. Very nice job, Matthew. It looks great!


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## Gandalf The Gray (Jul 22, 2013)

DanR said:


> Wow, I can't believe I missed this. Very nice job, Matthew. It looks great!


Thanks DanR. It turned out great, I haven't had time to put a finishing coat on it yet. But once I do I will post some pictures of the pipe complete with a bit attached. I picked up a few more cheap pipes off of ebay, One looks like it will be a great smoker and the other a no namer. So I might be trying this again...


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## Chris0673 (Aug 20, 2012)

Matt, that turned out awesome! Clever idea with the screwdriver too! Oooooohhhh I can feel the creative juices beginning to flow now! Soon as I get my house unpacked....


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## Gandalf The Gray (Jul 22, 2013)

Chris0673 said:


> Matt, that turned out awesome! Clever idea with the screwdriver too! Oooooohhhh I can feel the creative juices beginning to flow now! Soon as I get my house unpacked....


Lol, Thanks Chris. It wasn't my idea but One that has worked like a charm  . I see that creative glimmer in you're pipe bowl! It's only a matter of time now before you come up with something  . I think the next one I do I am going to rusticate the entire pipe, even the rim.....


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## scotchguy (Sep 6, 2013)

Longtime lurker here, and first off I have to say thank you for everyone's input and suggestions.

So here's my question, and it may be slightly out of place since this will be directed towards a brand new pipe. I bought a new pipe from Etsy, only because the pipe was purdy. I could tell the guy isn't an expert, but just a hobbiest. The pipe itself is fine, if not slightly obvious that it was made by hand (kinds like that though). The problem is the bowl was drilled awkwardly. There was almost a ridge halfway down. I have sanded it down to the best of my ability to get it as flush as I can. Now that the hard part is out of the way... What grit should I use to finish the bowl? I don't think I have ever purchased an unfinished bowl. Do you want the inside of the bowl to have some roughness to allow for the cake to form, or should it be super smooth?


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## steinr1 (Oct 22, 2010)

scotchguy said:


> Longtime lurker here, and first off I have to say thank you for everyone's input and suggestions.
> 
> So here's my question, and it may be slightly out of place since this will be directed towards a brand new pipe. I bought a new pipe from Etsy, only because the pipe was purdy. I could tell the guy isn't an expert, but just a hobbiest. The pipe itself is fine, if not slightly obvious that it was made by hand (kinds like that though). The problem is the bowl was drilled awkwardly. There was almost a ridge halfway down. I have sanded it down to the best of my ability to get it as flush as I can. Now that the hard part is out of the way... What grit should I use to finish the bowl? I don't think I have ever purchased an unfinished bowl. Do you want the inside of the bowl to have some roughness to allow for the cake to form, or should it be super smooth?


It doesn't matter much. The cake will form over pretty much any surface and form a new surface of its own. Dips and bumps will even out so long as they are not too bad. Sounds like you've done what's needed. If it's vaguely cylindrical (or tapered towards the bottom) without steps - job done. Get smoking.

I take it from your description that this is a "carve it yourself" pipe that wasn't quite finished. Post a picture when you've collected enough posts.

Oh yes, *WELCOME*.

Pop over to this thread and give us a proper introduction...

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/new-piper-fish-forum/


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## scotchguy (Sep 6, 2013)

steinr1 said:


> It doesn't matter much. The cake will form over pretty much any surface and form a new surface of its own. Dips and bumps will even out so long as they are not too bad. Sounds like you've done what's needed. If it's vaguely cylindrical (or tapered towards the bottom) without steps - job done. Get smoking.
> 
> I take it from your description that this is a "carve it yourself" pipe that wasn't quite finished. Post a picture when you've collected enough posts.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the insight. This one actually wasn't a "Carve your own", as that one is lost in the mail somewhere! This one is just a beginner pipe maker who has some technique to make the grain really pop. I couldn't resist buying it, but he does need a bit of more experience from the looks. I will probably pick up a few more of his down the road, since I don't mind tinkering. I just wasn't sure of the grit I should end with.

I started with 350 grit but needed to go lower to even things out. I moved up in increments until I hit 620 grit but will probably stop there. My worry was that the bowl is _too_ smooth at that grit. It still needs some evening out, but my focus now is mostly on the transition from the bowl to the rim. The rim wasn't quite even. I am not trying to detract from his original piece, but give it some finishing touches that I felt was missing. Since the uneven bowl would most likely interfere with the smoking experience, I don't feel like my alterations are misplaced.

I will upload a picture when I am all done. It's been fun sofar.


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## scotchguy (Sep 6, 2013)

Update

I found out that automobile grade sticky back sand paper works the best to even out the bowl. Only question, what's the best way to get all that briar dust out? Slightly damp paper towel?


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## steinr1 (Oct 22, 2010)

scotchguy said:


> Update
> 
> I found out that automobile grade sticky back sand paper works the best to even out the bowl. Only question, what's the best way to get all that briar dust out? Slightly damp paper towel?


Sounds good to me. Again, it doesn't really matter. The dust will burn away in the first smoke; your unlikely to taste it unless there is a lot of it. I'd be tempted to blow through it and maybe rub my finger over it and leave it at that.


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## madbricky (Mar 29, 2013)

Is a 1/2" cone shaped bur tool acceptable to strip a bowl down to fresh wood. I have these tools and if not I can make a bit from a spade drill bit.


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## madbricky (Mar 29, 2013)

jfsully said:


> To first clean the stems, I've used oxclean and it seems to do a great job and doesn't "eat into" the stem like bleach does.
> 
> recently I added lemon juice (not sure why). The acidic nature seemed to boost the oxyclean performance.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Oxyclean is very potent and leaves my vulcanite vintage stems nearly white.


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

I've read through this entire thread, and I have to say I'm grateful for all the great techniques and advice I've read here. Gives me a lot of courage to try my own hand at restoring estate pipes. 

I've been looking on ebay at bench buffers, and I see that many have one speed: ON (ie. 3540 rpm). There are inexpensive ones aimed at jewelry hobbyists that go as low as 2000 rpm, and I've seen some experienced restorers mention buffing as low as 1800rpm. 

Is 3540 rpm with a 6" buffing wheel okay to use, or should I go for the jewelers' buffers that accept 3" or 6" wheels and thus take a gentler approach?

I've seen advice about using a hand drill in a vise to do this, but my one good variable speed drill stopped working recently, and all I've got left is a one-speed drill and a big high-torque that might be too powerful.

The machine buffing is something that I probably won't get to for a while, and I've ordered micro-mesh pads for use in my first project, but I am thinking of getting a proper setup later on if I decide this is something I want to commit to as a hobby.


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

Thanks for all the great information Kyle! How does one make a loose stem fit better?


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## El wedo del milagro (Jul 3, 2012)

haebar said:


> Thanks for all the great information Kyle! How does one make a loose stem fit better?


One of the easiest ways is to apply flame to a block of bees wax, and then rub it on the stem where it fits inside the stummel.


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## Nature (Jul 30, 2012)

scotchguy said:


> Update
> 
> I found out that automobile grade sticky back sand paper works the best to even out the bowl. Only question, what's the best way to get all that briar dust out? Slightly damp paper towel?


What about compressed air? Either from a can or an air compressor with a tip.
Blowing it out should work.


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

Nature said:


> What about compressed air? Either from a can or an air compressor with a tip.
> Blowing it out should work.


For the stem, probably best to use pipe cleaners with some high-proof alcohol or pipe sweetener. Compressed air cans blow a jet of super-cooled air which could make the vulcanite temporarily very brittle, and any local contractions from the temperature change may cause cracks. Taking off the stem and blowing it into the stummel in short bursts may be okay, but probably not necessary, as pipe cleaners should take care of the dust. I've sanded out a lot of bowls, and after a little swabbing out, never found briar dust to be a problem.


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

haebar said:


> Thanks for all the great information Kyle! How does one make a loose stem fit better?


Beside the beeswax solution mentioned before, there are two other ways to fix a loose stem.

One technique used by professional restorers involves softening the tenon (typically by dipping in very hot water) then using the smooth end of a drill bit or a specialize awl, just a touch larger than the draft hole, and pushing it in, stretching the tenon wider. It's very important you don't over-soften the vulcanite or it will bunch up messily when you push the tool in. If the tenon ends up being slightly too large for the mortise, you can then carefully sand it down until it fits snugly. If you use a stinger or filter this may not work.

The second method is one I'd use for acrylic stems, such as on cob pipes. It can be used as a quick-fix for vulcanite but I wouldn't use it on a pipe you may some day consider reselling. The technique is to paint the tenon with clear acrylic-based nail hardener (such as found in the cosmetic section of a drug store), in successive layers until you get a snug fit again. Let each layer cure for a couple days, so it's very hard, and no longer out-gassing any volatile chemicals. I have done this to many loose-stemmed cobs, with no problems. The coating does not melt or make the stem glued on, so it's still easy to remove for cleaning.


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

Christopher, Thanks for your help!


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

When an estate pipe has a film layer of years of buildup of smoke, dust, etc., how does you clean this off before polishing the finish safely? Or do you just polish it and do it all in one step?


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

haebar said:


> When an estate pipe has a film layer of years of buildup of smoke, dust, etc., how does you clean this off before polishing the finish safely? Or do you just polish it and do it all in one step?


Smoke and dust are dry particulate matter that should easily buff off with a microfiber or flannel cloth. If the film is of a more sticky nature that has hardened onto the outside of the bowl, first try rubbing at it with a damp cloth. If it's the tarry substance akin to the cake that forms on the inside of the bowl it should come off. On the rim of the bowl it is common to use spit to rub that stuff away.

If the film layer is really stubborn and unsightly, it might be a layer of shellac or varnish that was part of the original finish, which has gone bad over the years of heat and finger oils. I've dealt with a lot of pipes like that, and in such a case I'll choose to just refinish the pipe. Sand the entire stummel down to remove all the finish and stain (I think there may be info on sanding somewhere back on this thread), then decide whether to leave the pipe "natural" or add a new stain or other finish.


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

Thanks Christopher!


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

I got an unsmoked estate pipe on Ebay that came with it's original shipping box, postmarked 1968. It appears that the pipe has sat in the box all these years and I can't get the stem off. Tried twisting it off but I'm afraid I will break it or the pipe. What should I do to get the stem off?


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

haebar said:


> I got an unsmoked estate pipe on Ebay that came with it's original shipping box, postmarked 1968. It appears that the pipe has sat in the box all these years and I can't get the stem off. Tried twisting it off but I'm afraid I will break it or the pipe. What should I do to get the stem off?


The mot common trick is to put the pipe in a freezer for about 15 minutes. The vulcanite contracts faster than the wood, so that loosens it up a little. Then very slowly and carefully twist the stem (holding it close to the stummel end) and see if it will come loose. Try not to bend or wiggle it while twisting, or the tenon may snap off inside the mortise.


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

cpmcdill said:


> The mot common trick is to put the pipe in a freezer for about 15 minutes. The vulcanite contracts faster than the wood, so that loosens it up a little. Then very slowly and carefully twist the stem (holding it close to the stummel end) and see if it will come loose. Try not to bend or wiggle it while twisting, or the tenon may snap off inside the mortise.


That worked! Thank you!

Should I put anything on the tenon to prevent it from getting stuck again?


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

haebar said:


> That worked! Thank you!
> 
> Should I put anything on the tenon to prevent it from getting stuck again?


If you have some handy, try a bit of beeswax. One old "codger" trick is, since most people don't keep hunks of beeswax around, just a light touch of chapstick around the tenon has the same effect.


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

Got this rusticated pipe in an estate lot. It has white deposits in the lower parts of the relief. My guess is that this is built-up wax. How do I get this out?

View attachment 89012


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

haebar said:


> Got this rusticated pipe in an estate lot. It has white deposits in the lower parts of the relief. My guess is that this is built-up wax. How do I get this out?


Wax can be softened with heat. If you aim a hairdryer at the waxy parts to heat them up, then massage into the rustication with an old toothbrush, you can remove excess wax and redistribute the rest, which should make it easier to buff clear.


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

Where do I look to find a low-speed buffer for polishing and buffing pipes?


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

haebar said:


> Where do I look to find a low-speed buffer for polishing and buffing pipes?


I got mine from Harbor Freight


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

haebar said:


> Where do I look to find a low-speed buffer for polishing and buffing pipes?


I got mine from Harbor Freight


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

The only ones I see there are 3450 rpm and faster. I want one that will go about half that speed or slower. There's one at Grizzly.com but it's over $700! Guess I'll be looking for a used one.


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## El wedo del milagro (Jul 3, 2012)

All of my arbors are belt-driven with pulleys.

I tend to want high RPM's as I used to be a jeweler, but they can be dialed in to any RPM by changing out the pulleys.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

haebar said:


> The only ones I see there are 3450 rpm and faster. I want one that will go about half that speed or slower. There's one at Grizzly.com but it's over $700! Guess I'll be looking for a used one.


Harbor Freight.

Buy a variable speed drill and clamp it down, BAMO instant cheap pipe buffing wheel.


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

Cool! I will try that. I've got a shoe buffer that might work too. Thanks!


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

I came to own a meerschaum-lined estate pipe with a cake built up. Can I ream this like a briar or will it destroy the meerschaum? Thanks


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## cpmcdill (Jan 11, 2014)

haebar said:


> I came to own a meerschaum-lined estate pipe with a cake built up. Can I ream this like a briar or will it destroy the meerschaum? Thanks


I don't have any meerschaums, but from what I've read about them, I'd exercise extreme caution. Might be better to work at it slowly with a finer grade of sandpaper until you get just about down to the meer and then stop. I'd imagine that just as with a briar it's good to have at least a thin layer of cake. I also seem to recall something about how whereas it's good to use grain alcohol to dissolve tars on a briar, it's inadvisable with meerschaum as it has a solvent effect on the material of the pipe itself.


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

cpmcdill said:


> I don't have any meerschaums, but from what I've read about them, I'd exercise extreme caution. Might be better to work at it slowly with a finer grade of sandpaper until you get just about down to the meer and then stop. I'd imagine that just as with a briar it's good to have at least a thin layer of cake. I also seem to recall something about how whereas it's good to use grain alcohol to dissolve tars on a briar, it's inadvisable with meerschaum as it has a solvent effect on the material of the pipe itself.


Thanks Christopher! I will try the fine sandpaper on it.


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## Tobias Lutz (Feb 18, 2013)

Branzig said:


> Harbor Freight.
> 
> Buy a variable speed drill and clamp it down, BAMO instant cheap pipe buffing wheel.


I love it! :nod: I've used polishing pads on a cheap dremel tool as well.


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## haebar (Jun 9, 2012)

I just got an estate Peterson System Standard on Ebay and the band is loose, but it doesn't come off. Should I pull it off and re-glue it or just learn to live with it loose?


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