# Whynter CHC-251S



## UPTOWNSMOKE (Nov 28, 2016)

Hey guys hoping I can get some advice on what to do. I have a Whynter 251S I've had since December 2016. It was about 3/4 full with about 3 Lbs of KL and 3 Accurite Hygros and 1 Xikar Hygro, drain hole plugged.. Wineador was working perfectly, 65-66 F and 64-65% RH. I unplugged it for the winter months and it maintained the 65-66 F and 64-65% RH. About 6 weeks ago I plugged in the Wineador, the temperature is holding at 65-66 F but the RH is not rising above 58% and a lot of water is collecting at the bottom. If I unplug the Wineador within 30 minutes the humidity gets to 64-65% but the temperature jumps to 75-76 F. 

I've moved all my cigars to ziplock bags and replaced the KL with new KL and yes I've sprayed the KL with Distilled Water. I've reseasoned the shelves and drawers again. For the hundredth time I tested my Hygros and they are working fine. Plugged in for 3 days and same results, 65-66 F and 58%RH with water collecting at the bottom. Unplugged 75-76 F and 64-65 RH. Tested the seal around the door and no leaks, so I don't know what is happening. 

Any idea what's happening here guys? 

Thanks.


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## Navistar (May 24, 2016)

interesting. I am planning to get one but you are not the first person to have this "sweat" issue. Curious to hear opinions from the pros


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## Rabidawise (Apr 23, 2018)

From what I remember reading it is because of the plugged drain hole. @curmudgeonista might could chime in on this. I believe he has the same model.


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## Bird-Dog (Oct 16, 2009)

Rabidawise said:


> From what I remember reading it is because of the plugged drain hole. @*curmudgeonista* might could chime in on this. I believe he has the same model.


Correct!

My first one had a melt-down that plugged the small drain tube in the ledge just below the heat exchange plate, which resulted in water pooling in the bottom. Drain holes are not meant to be plugged on these.

Thermoelectric coolers operate by the Peltier effect which draws heat out rather than push cold in like a condenser fridge. The backside of that plate gets hot when current flows through it which causes the front side in the humidor to cool. But since it takes some time for the humidified air inside to reach equilibrium a certain amount of condensation on the plate is possible.

Therefore the little inset with the drain tube below the plate is meant to remain open to carry off the condensation as it drips down off the plate. If it's got nowhere to go it's going to overflow and stream down into the bottom of the humidor. If that's the drain hole you meant @*UPTOWNSMOKE*, well then, you need to unplug it. If not, then check it anyway - a pipe cleaner might work to clear any debris that's gotten into it.


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## Olecharlie (Oct 28, 2017)

Sorry to hear, I have a 400ct Whytner and love it it has operated flawlessly and a great addition to my two Humidors that Are great as well. The moderator has pointed you in the right direction. Whytner is a great company with great customer service open weekdays. I called them before and after my purchases even before I set it up to get on the right foot but sounds like you have been unfortunate to have this issue.


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## UPTOWNSMOKE (Nov 28, 2016)

curmudgeonista said:


> Correct!
> 
> My first one had a melt-down that plugged the small drain tube in the ledge just below the heat exchange plate, which resulted in water pooling in the bottom. Drain holes are not meant to be plugged on these.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I will unplug the drain hole. Hopefully this works.


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## UPTOWNSMOKE (Nov 28, 2016)

Unplugged the drain hole yesterday and as of today no water collecting at the bottom of the wineador. Only problem I have now is the humidity has dropped to 56% on the bottom, 58% in the middle and 60% on top. Temp is holding steady at 66-68 F. Ordered a bunch of 65% Boveda, hopefully they help.


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## watchesandputters (Apr 20, 2018)

What's the room like you keep it in? Typical temp, first/second floor, is it in direct, etc?

Depending on all of that you may be able to find a different location in the house that will help keep temps at the point where you don't even need to bother plugging it in year round.


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## selpo (Nov 4, 2015)

UPTOWNSMOKE said:


> Unplugged the drain hole yesterday and as of today no water collecting at the bottom of the wineador. Only problem I have now is the humidity has dropped to 56% on the bottom, 58% in the middle and 60% on top. Temp is holding steady at 66-68 F. Ordered a bunch of 65% Boveda, hopefully they help.


Give it time, spray the KL a couple of squirts every 72 hours till the humidity comes up to your desired level. I have 2 of these and that is all I need to do.

Interesting Avatar, BTW, I am from the subcontinent.


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## UPTOWNSMOKE (Nov 28, 2016)

selpo said:


> Give it time, spray the KL a couple of squirts every 72 hours till the humidity comes up to your desired level. I have 2 of these and that is all I need to do.
> 
> Interesting Avatar, BTW, I am from the subcontinent.


Thanks I will.

After a long time away I'm trying to get back to my religion. Gotta love Lord Ganesh.


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## UPTOWNSMOKE (Nov 28, 2016)

Contacted Whynter CS and after a few emails was told that most likely the control board and heat sink will have to be replaced. Cost for the parts would be around $50. They suggest I get a certified technician to install the parts. Don't know what that will cost me. I bought extended warranty when I purchase the unit so I contacted them and I'm waiting on them to see if they will cover the cost or if I have to shell out the $50 and try to install the parts myself. Guess I have to invest in a soldering iron and solder. 

One more thing Whynter sent a link where I can purchase the parts but the Heat Sink is unavailable and don't know when it will be. 

Anyone ever replace the control board and heat sink and if so was it very technical. I can frame a wall and put up sheetrock and but I don't mess with electrical. 


This all sucks because I only purchased this unit December 2016.


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## Bird-Dog (Oct 16, 2009)

UPTOWNSMOKE said:


> Contacted Whynter CS and after a few emails was told that most likely the control board and heat sink will have to be replaced. Cost for the parts would be around $50. They suggest I get a certified technician to install the parts. Don't know what that will cost me. I bought extended warranty when I purchase the unit so I contacted them and I'm waiting on them to see if they will cover the cost or if I have to shell out the $50 and try to install the parts myself. Guess I have to invest in a soldering iron and solder.
> 
> One more thing Whynter sent a link where I can purchase the parts but the Heat Sink is unavailable and don't know when it will be.
> 
> ...


What? Are you saying the unit has stopped cooling now, or did you contact Whynter about the RH issue? Unless something else happened since you started this thread that you didn't tell us about, I think maybe some things got mixed up in your conversation with Whynter. The heat sink and control board have nothing to do with humidity issues. In fact, the Whynter CSR's likely don't know much, if anything about that end of things. Their units handle the cooling part, same as the ones they make for chilling wine. It's on us to work out how we handle the RH.

If I've missed something, please explain. In the meantime, let me speculate on what's going on with the RH.

When the unit is on and cooling properly it doesn't pump cool in, it draws heat out. The heat sink uses the Peltier effect, essentially becoming hot on one side, causing the other side to cool. Now, with moist air inside you will get some condensation on the heat exchange plate. It will be especially prevalent when you are first cooling the unit back down from being unplugged and spiking the temperature. That's why there's a collection basin and drain just below the plate. Opening the drain back up should relieve the problem of water pooling in the bottom of the unit. The cooling mechanism is working extra hard to at this point compared to when it's simply maintaining the lower temps after it's cooled down. Good so far?

But, that water's got to come from somewhere, right? It's drawn out of the air inside the unit and needs to be replaced. So, during this period of re-cooling the unit, and perhaps for some time afterward if ambiend temps are up in the 75F rangel, you will need to keep adding water to your media on a pretty constant basis.

And from what I understand, KL doesn't have an inherent proclivity for seeking 65% RH; it must be trained. I'm guessing it may now be contributing to the extraction of moisture, seeking a lower RH than you expect it to, and may need to be re-trained, or maybe replaced with fresh KL and trained anew. But talk to @*Cigary* about that. I don't have a lot of experience with KL (I prefer to stick with HF Beads and Bovedas that are pre-tuned to a specific RH).


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## UPTOWNSMOKE (Nov 28, 2016)

curmudgeonista said:


> What? Are you saying the unit has stopped cooling now, or did you contact Whynter about the RH issue? Unless something else happened since you started this thread that you didn't tell us about, I think maybe some things got mixed up in your conversation with Whynter. The heat sink and control board have nothing to do with humidity issues. In fact, the Whynter CSR's likely don't know much, if anything about that end of things. Their units handle the cooling part, same as the ones they make for chilling wine. It's on us to work out how we handle the RH.
> 
> If I've missed something, please explain. In the meantime, let me speculate on what's going on with the RH.
> 
> ...


This is the first email I got from Whynter CS.

*Please reset the humidor by unplugging; restart it in 3 minutes, hold the up and down buttons together until the display flashes, set the unit to your desired temperature, and let it run for at least one hour to see if it is cooling properly.

If the humidor is still not working properly after resetting, please unplug it and open the back plate to check if there are any loose plugs on the control board. Please inspect the control board for discoloration or burnt components. Use compressed air or a vacuum to remove any dust from the internal components and clean the air filters at the back of the cooler to improve air circulation.

After the internal components are cleaned, with the rear panel back into place and plug the unit in.

Look through the side vents for the control board LED lights and let us know if any lights are illuminated on the control board.

When the unit is attempting to cool, the red and green lights on the control board should be lit.
For testing purposes, set the unit to the lowest temperature (50 F) for approximately 1 hour and let us know if the unit is reaching within 5 degrees of the set temperature.

Once the unit reaches within 1-5 degrees of the temperature, the green light will turn off.*

This is the second email after I replied to them that The temp on the unit was reading 57F but all 4 of my Hygros in the unit were reading 66-67F and the RH was at 57-59% ( Hygros have all been re-calibrated and batteries changed.) 
The two lights on the control board stayed on all night and unit was revving, like when you step on the gas of your car. It would rev for 5 seconds then slow down then again and kept doing this all night. I finally decided to unplug the unit because I did not want anything bad to happen while i was at work. BTW all KL was replaced with 12 packs of 65% Bovedas about 2 weeks ago and still no change.

*
Thank you for your reply. According to your description of the issue, the main power control board (PCB) and cooling system (heat sink) may need to be replaced. If preferred, as one option, you can purchase the replacement parts to try to resolve the issue. Please note that the parts require soldering so we recommend having them installed by a Certified Technician or Tradesman. Attached is a guide to provide to the technician showing the updates to the parts. Also, without inspection, we cannot guarantee that the recommended parts will resolve the issue.

Alternately, a quote for repairs can be provided and a return authorization can be issued to have the unit returned our Southern CA service center for repair or replacement. 
*


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## Bird-Dog (Oct 16, 2009)

I don't claim to know more than Whynter's own people, but I wouldn't give up so easily. I'd try going through the start up process again; maybe a few times, before I'd start throwing money at it. I can tell you I've had several times that my CHC-251S reset its own temp to the lowest setting (57F sounds right) and I always managed to get it to hold at 66F again with some trial & error... and patience.

If you do decide to start replacing parts, I'd take it one step at a time starting with the control board, especially since your hygros are indicating 65F-66F. If they're correct, then I'd assume assume the heat sink is doing it's job until proven otherwise. Of course, you could just rely on them and ignore the read-out on the unit itself.


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## UPTOWNSMOKE (Nov 28, 2016)

curmudgeonista said:


> I don't claim to know more than Whynter's own people, but I wouldn't give up so easily. I'd try going through the start up process again; maybe a few times, before I'd start throwing money at it. I can tell you I've had several times that my CHC-251S reset its own temp to the lowest setting (57F sounds right) and I always managed to get it to hold at 66F again with some trial & error... and patience.
> 
> If you do decide to start replacing parts, I'd take it one step at a time starting with the control board, especially since your hygros are indicating 65F-66F. If they're correct, then I'd assume assume the heat sink is doing it's job until proven otherwise. Of course, you could just rely on them and ignore the read-out on the unit itself.


I am going to take your advice and go through the start up process again. If this fails then I'll do the control board. If all fails then I guess I will purchase a scratch and dent NewAir. Was also thinking about a cooler but with the temps in NYC being so hot in the summer don't know how I would keep the cigars in the cooler cool.

Thanks I appreciate the advice.


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## UPTOWNSMOKE (Nov 28, 2016)

Well I went ahead and ordered the control board. After I did this I decided to go back on Amazon and read the reviews of the Whynter again. I look at my purchase history and and totally forgot that I had bought a 3 year warranty with the unit. I contacted Assurant and was told that they would send my a return label and all I have to do is cut off the power cord and mail it back to them and when it is received they will email me an electronic gift card for the purchase price of the unit. Guess I will be returning the power cord and investing the money on The New Air AW-281E. I will use the shelves that are in the Whynter because Assurant does not want them or the old unit.


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## Wildman9907 (May 13, 2018)

Let me know how you like the Newair AW-281E, im debating between that or the whynter


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## Olecharlie (Oct 28, 2017)

UPTOWNSMOKE said:


> Contacted Whynter CS and after a few emails was told that most likely the control board and heat sink will have to be replaced. Cost for the parts would be around $50. They suggest I get a certified technician to install the parts. Don't know what that will cost me. I bought extended warranty when I purchase the unit so I contacted them and I'm waiting on them to see if they will cover the cost or if I have to shell out the $50 and try to install the parts myself. Guess I have to invest in a soldering iron and solder.
> 
> One more thing Whynter sent a link where I can purchase the parts but the Heat Sink is unavailable and don't know when it will be.
> 
> ...


Have you called and talked to them? 866-949-6837

US Army Veteran 1974-1985


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## UPTOWNSMOKE (Nov 28, 2016)

Olecharlie said:


> Have you called and talked to them? 866-949-6837
> 
> US Army Veteran 1974-1985


Yes I did and was told the same thing. Insurance will refund the purchase price of the item with and electronic gift card.


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## Steve2150 (Feb 28, 2013)

Wildman9907 said:


> Let me know how you like the Newair AW-281E, im debating between that or the whynter


I have a Whynter chc-251s and purchased a NewAir cc-100 as a 2nd unit. No comparison between the 2 as Whynter did a better job converting it from a wine cooler to a cigar cooler. I get no condensation in the unit using 65 beads, the only water is in the outside back of the unit in the tray from the action of the thermoelectric cooling, there is no drain hole in the Whynter for humidity to escape. Whereas it seems NewAir just took a wine cooler added some cedar and called it a cigar cooler, there is a drain hole on on the floor of the unit towards the back that constantly lets out the humidity from the unit. The instructions say fill the tray with water and when the humidity is 5% over what you want take the tray out where as the Whynter tells you to keep the water tray in there filled with distilled water or beads. Whynter is so much better then the NewAir.


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## Steve2150 (Feb 28, 2013)

My Whynter chc-251s has no drain hole inside on the bottom of the unit whereas my Newair cc-100 has a drain hole on the bottom of the unit towards the back, now I see why it is having problems holding humidity. The Whynter drips water in a pan in back from the thermoelectric unit but no condensation inside whereas the Newair removes the humidity from the drain hole, seems Newair just took a wine cooler and added cedar shelves and that was it.


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## Wildman9907 (May 13, 2018)

Steve2150 said:


> I have a Whynter chc-251s and purchased a NewAir cc-100 as a 2nd unit. No comparison between the 2 as Whynter did a better job converting it from a wine cooler to a cigar cooler. I get no condensation in the unit using 65 beads, the only water is in the outside back of the unit in the tray from the action of the thermoelectric cooling, there is no drain hole in the Whynter for humidity to escape. Whereas it seems NewAir just took a wine cooler added some cedar and called it a cigar cooler, there is a drain hole on on the floor of the unit towards the back that constantly lets out the humidity from the unit. The instructions say fill the tray with water and when the humidity is 5% over what you want take the tray out where as the Whynter tells you to keep the water tray in there filled with distilled water or beads. Whynter is so much better then the NewAir.


thank you for the info, appreciate it


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## Steve2150 (Feb 28, 2013)

Got to say this, I had problems with my Whynter and their customer service is horrible, they wanted me to send back the chc-251s even though I do not have the original box they said get a box but if it is damaged in shipping it is on me, I am glad I bought it at bestbuy, as they are shipping me a replacement and when it arrives I will put the defective from factory one in the box and drop off at bestbuy. This unit was defective from the factory and if you get a Whynter hope you never have to deal with them, with this one I bought Geek Squad for $15.99 and never have to deal with the worst customer service which is Whynter. My NewAir cc-100 I just got Saturday is off 5 degrees called their customer service and what a difference, fantastic, they talked me thru checking it and determined the control board is bad as the green light does not stay on and the temp sensor is bad, they are also sending me a new control panel, great company from now on Newair is the one I recommend not Whynter.


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## BOSSTANK (Mar 3, 2018)

I love my Whynter... holds perfect 65% humidity


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## Steve2150 (Feb 28, 2013)

curmudgeonista said:


> Correct!
> 
> My first one had a melt-down that plugged the small drain tube in the ledge just below the heat exchange plate, which resulted in water pooling in the bottom. Drain holes are not meant to be plugged on these.
> 
> ...


I have 2 chc-251s units and both have the same problem, the water from the drain tube does not go into the tray on the outside back of the units but goes between the tray and wall and pools on the outside bottom, I came up with a fix that is working so far, I applied black electrical tape between the top of the tray and the back wall just under the drain tube and so far it is directing the water into the tray, spoke with Whynter and their answer is send it in to be checked, shipping will be over $100 and if it is doing this on my 2 or should I say 3 as I had one replaced by Bestbuy for the same problem and damage from the factory, the water got into the pressboard and softened it, so it was the same problem with 3 so sending it in would result in probably another one of poor design.


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## Kidvegas (Oct 17, 2016)

Hmm..I’ve had the drain hole plugged on my 251s from the beginning might just have to open it up. Don’t want any problems....love this unit!


Sent from Dino’s living room floor.....dogs got the couch!


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## BOSSTANK (Mar 3, 2018)

When I opened my Whynter a while ago to grab the first cigar of the day, as I got blasted with the nice chilled cedar aroma smell...I uttered to myself “this thing is freaking awesome”.


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## BKurt (Jul 21, 2018)

Kidvegas said:


> Hmm..I've had the drain hole plugged on my 251s from the beginning might just have to open it up. Don't want any problems....love this unit!
> 
> Sent from Dino's living room floor.....dogs got the couch!


Any issues with RH when you unplugged your drain hole? I did the same thing as you -- I plugged mine because I thought that's what you were supposed to do. But reading this thread it looks like you're supposed to do it on the new air units but not the Whynter? Anyways, I was getting the pool of water on the bottom of my unit so I opened up the drain hole to let it filter into the retaining cup in the back.

Does anyone use fans in their unit ? If so - curious to what kind and how are you running your cord throughout the unit to plug in for power?

Thx!

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## Kidvegas (Oct 17, 2016)

BKurt said:


> Any issues with RH when you unplugged your drain hole? I did the same thing as you -- I plugged mine because I thought that's what you were supposed to do. But reading this thread it looks like you're supposed to do it on the new air units but not the Whynter? Anyways, I was getting the pool of water on the bottom of my unit so I opened up the drain hole to let it filter into the retaining cup in the back.
> 
> Does anyone use fans in their unit ? If so - curious to what kind and how are you running your cord throughout the unit to plug in for power?
> 
> ...


Never had issues with it plugged but, after seeing posts about the unplugged thing it's exactly what I did. Still haven't had any drastic fluctuations since. Basically rock steady 64%-66%. Mind you it's not plugged in temps hanging same as the basement around 68-70. And everything is smoking fine!

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## lex61 (Nov 18, 2016)

I'm having similar issues to what @UPTOWNSMOKE has seen. My temperature display on the front of the unit reads 59-60 when my three hygrometers all read 64-65 (my temperature is set to 65). I have water collecting in the external tray on the back of the unit and no water pooling in the bottom of the unit. My RH is very difficult, if not impossible, to maintain using KL, despite spraying it a couple of times a week. I have a tray of KL on the top shelf and the bottom floor of the unit. Strange, but my RH is lower at the top than at the bottom by 3-4%. (I've always heard humid air rises...) One other thing about mine is I replaced three shelves with drawers, so I have five drawers and one shelf in mine. The shelf is at the top. I've had that arrangement for about a year and a half.

I'm not terribly concerned about the incorrect reading on the front panel, but coincidentally my RH issues started at the same time the display started reading incorrectly. A couple of things have crossed my mind with respect to the RH. First, I'm opening it a lot more this summer than I have in past summers, so maybe that's a contributor. I also have a lot less cigars in my humidor than I've had in the past (currently about 120 compared to ~250 last summer). I can imagine a fuller humidor with a bunch of cigars at 65% would be more stable through times when the door is opened than a less full humidor would. Any thoughts? @UPTOWNSMOKE, did you ever install the new control board you got on your old unit?

I can't post a picture from my computer, so I'll follow up with a picture showing rust on the back of the unit in an unusual place. I'm not sure what that's about either.


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## lex61 (Nov 18, 2016)

I'm wondering how rust would develop here, above where the water collects from the drain hole. I'm in Colorado where it's pretty dry so this just seems weird.

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## Steve2150 (Feb 28, 2013)

If you look at the picture with the external tray you can see where the water dripped between the tray and the back of the unit that caused the rust. On mine I place electric tape between the top edge of the tray and back of unit so the water goes in the tray and not behind it to the bottom and cause rust


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## Steve2150 (Feb 28, 2013)

Meant add also I have 65 heartfelt beads and must mist them 2x weekly and I keep a shot glass of distilled water in it


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## lex61 (Nov 18, 2016)

Steve2150 said:


> If you look at the picture with the external tray you can see where the water dripped between the tray and the back of the unit that caused the rust. On mine I place electric tape between the top edge of the tray and back of unit so the water goes in the tray and not behind it to the bottom and cause rust


Except the rust is ABOVE the drain hole. How did water get up to that point from the drain hole?


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## JtAv8tor (Apr 12, 2017)

lex61 said:


> I'm wondering how rust would develop here, above where the water collects from the drain hole. I'm in Colorado where it's pretty dry so this just seems weird.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


My educated guess on the rust, metal piece covering fans, at some point some moisture was created via fans and metal. Said moisture got in between there and rust happened. If you don't need that metal cover on the backside I would just leave it off it mine.

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## mpomario (Dec 27, 2016)

Did you season the new drawers before you put them in?


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## lex61 (Nov 18, 2016)

It could very well be some residual water that caused the rust. The plate covers the control board and fans so it does provide some safety features. 

The new drawers were seasoned before adding them. 






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## JtAv8tor (Apr 12, 2017)

I know on my Vinotemp I will occasionally get some condensation round the fan housing. 


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## UPTOWNSMOKE (Nov 28, 2016)

lex61 said:


> I'm having similar issues to what @UPTOWNSMOKE has seen. My temperature display on the front of the unit reads 59-60 when my three hygrometers all read 64-65 (my temperature is set to 65). I have water collecting in the external tray on the back of the unit and no water pooling in the bottom of the unit. My RH is very difficult, if not impossible, to maintain using KL, despite spraying it a couple of times a week. I have a tray of KL on the top shelf and the bottom floor of the unit. Strange, but my RH is lower at the top than at the bottom by 3-4%. (I've always heard humid air rises...) One other thing about mine is I replaced three shelves with drawers, so I have five drawers and one shelf in mine. The shelf is at the top. I've had that arrangement for about a year and a half.
> 
> I'm not terribly concerned about the incorrect reading on the front panel, but coincidentally my RH issues started at the same time the display started reading incorrectly. A couple of things have crossed my mind with respect to the RH. First, I'm opening it a lot more this summer than I have in past summers, so maybe that's a contributor. I also have a lot less cigars in my humidor than I've had in the past (currently about 120 compared to ~250 last summer). I can imagine a fuller humidor with a bunch of cigars at 65% would be more stable through times when the door is opened than a less full humidor would. Any thoughts? @UPTOWNSMOKE, did you ever install the new control board you got on your old unit?
> 
> I can't post a picture from my computer, so I'll follow up with a picture showing rust on the back of the unit in an unusual place. I'm not sure what that's about either.


I did install a new control board and the problem is fixed. Units been working perfectly. Just like new.


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## lex61 (Nov 18, 2016)

UPTOWNSMOKE said:


> I did install a new control board and the problem is fixed. Units been working perfectly. Just like new.


Nice! Did you replace the heat sink too? I was just thinking about ordering a new control board but wasn't sure there'd be any need to replace the heat sink as well. That's good news for you though!

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## UPTOWNSMOKE (Nov 28, 2016)

lex61 said:


> Nice! Did you replace the heat sink too? I was just thinking about ordering a new control board but wasn't sure there'd be any need to replace the heat sink as well. That's good news for you though!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


No I just installed the new CB and that did the trick.

Insurance had me cut the power cord and return it to them before they would reimburse me the purchase price. I was going to buy a new unit but I found an old fridge and cut the power cord from that one and attached it to my unit and installed the new CB and my unit is working as good as new. No more water collecting in the back and no more pooling on the bottom.


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## BKurt (Jul 21, 2018)

Question : Does anyone have a drawer(s) that they're not using and are interested in selling? (Whynter CHC251s)

PM me if you are willing to sell?

Thanks 

Kurt 

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## BOSSTANK (Mar 3, 2018)

BKurt said:


> Question : Does anyone have a drawer(s) that they're not using and are interested in selling? (Whynter CHC251s)
> 
> PM me if you are willing to sell?
> 
> ...


Keep an eye on this page, they should be back in stock soon
https://ambientstores.com/cigar-drawer-for-chc-251s-bottom-slider/

Or if you want one with the hygrometer hole cut out they are in stock
https://ambientstores.com/whynter-chc-251s-drawer-with-hygrometer-cutout-chc-cgbxh-500/


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## Pag#11 (Apr 14, 2018)

BKurt said:


> Question : Does anyone have a drawer(s) that they're not using and are interested in selling? (Whynter CHC251s)
> 
> PM me if you are willing to sell?
> 
> ...


Found this for ya.
















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## BOSSTANK (Mar 3, 2018)

BKurt said:


> Question : Does anyone have a drawer(s) that they're not using and are interested in selling? (Whynter CHC251s)
> 
> PM me if you are willing to sell?
> 
> ...





BOSSTANK said:


> Keep an eye on this page, they should be back in stock soon
> https://ambientstores.com/cigar-drawer-for-chc-251s-bottom-slider/
> 
> Or if you want one with the hygrometer hole cut out they are in stock
> https://ambientstores.com/whynter-chc-251s-drawer-with-hygrometer-cutout-chc-cgbxh-500/


The drawers are back in stock today...


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## Olecharlie (Oct 28, 2017)

BKurt said:


> Question : Does anyone have a drawer(s) that they're not using and are interested in selling? (Whynter CHC251s)
> 
> PM me if you are willing to sell?
> 
> ...


I saw some SC on Amazon a while back for $15, meant to buy a couple thanks for the reminder. I actually have one and that I bought and have had it for a long time. Just ordered another oen $13. Also Neptune cigar has them for 12.95 ea. You will have to sit on a shelf since their not slotted to be a perfect fit for the cooler.u what @BOSSTANK posted looks better doesn't say it's SC. May order one of thoses as well.


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## Steve2150 (Feb 28, 2013)

Have the Whynter CHC-251S, my question is this, I was always told that the best temperature/humidity is 70/70. So with these cigar coolerators why does Whynter set them so they start to cool at 66 instead of letting the cooling process begin at 70.


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## Bird-Dog (Oct 16, 2009)

Steve2150 said:


> Have the Whynter CHC-251S, my question is this, I was always told that the best temperature/humidity is 70/70. So with these cigar coolerators why does Whynter set them so they start to cool at 66 instead of letting the cooling process begin at 70.


While the 70/70 axiom still circulates, most experienced cigarists, at least around here, no longer subscribe to it. 70F and under is best for avoiding beetle outbreaks, and 66F is just fine. For RH, 65% is most commonly recommended on Puff now (some even drop down to 60%-62%). 70% RH tends to cause burn problems and bitterness.


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## Garyk (Nov 16, 2018)

I have the wynter ch251s..thankfully I'm not having issues. I keep mine at 65/65 with 4 x 360 gram bovedas. It appears rock solid and has for sometime, though methinks I'll he checking the back for issues now! I have at least 8 inches of unobstructed air space around the back top and sides, in my youth I worked with appliances and found insufficient air circulation to be the cause of many issues with refrigeration..not sure that applies here per se..


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## rtroock (Mar 25, 2019)

Good day, first time post. Hopefully you gentlemen with more electrical experience can lend some advice. My CHC-251S gets way too cool (set at 66, drops consistently to mid 50s). I'm in Canada and don't really need the cooling function of the unit. Looking at the back of the control board, if I simply unplug NTC2, FAN1, and FAN2, will that turn everything off other then the interior fan for circulation, or am I risking over heating something in the unit or worse? Attached is a picture with what I'm thinking of doing. Thanks









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## lex61 (Nov 18, 2016)

rtroock said:


> Good day, first time post. Hopefully you gentlemen with more electrical experience can lend some advice. My CHC-251S gets way too cool (set at 66, drops consistently to mid 50s). I'm in Canada and don't really need the cooling function of the unit. Looking at the back of the control board, if I simply unplug NTC2, FAN1, and FAN2, will that turn everything off other then the interior fan for circulation, or am I risking over heating something in the unit or worse? Attached is a picture with what I'm thinking of doing. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> ...


While I can't answer your specific question I would at least say this is exactly what mine was doing a while back. I bought a new controller board for around $35 and have had no issues since.

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## Harry1515 (Apr 14, 2020)

Can you provide a copy of that guide Whynter wanted you to provide to the tech?


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## Ijones (Feb 10, 2020)

Just ordered the 251s seasoned with the tray for 10 days opened up and see condescension going from the top to the bottom after reading this thread is it plugged automatically or everybody did it manually and what do people suggest I do?


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## Ijones (Feb 10, 2020)

And anybody know what this purple is is it from baking soda


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## Ijones (Feb 10, 2020)

bump!


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## Ijones (Feb 10, 2020)

Can anybody answer how I unplug the drain hole


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## Odzi (Sep 22, 2020)

I would try a pipe cleaner first.

Then possibly compressed air, gently applied.


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## Olecharlie (Oct 28, 2017)

I Luv my 251S after 18 months quit cooling. Whynter sent me all new parts, it worked great for another few months and quit cooling again. I unplugged it well over a year ago. Works just great since its air tight. Just use Bovedas to keep RH regulated. Just FYI, never had a drain issue.


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