# Sticky  Ask a Pipe Guy



## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

I was just writing a PM to a new pipe smoker about answering any questions that he had and realized that I could do this on a wider level.

I have noticed that there is a high level of "pay it forward" mentality in the pipe community. Everyone was a new, frustrated and curious pipe smoker at one time or another. And most of us had a person or persons who took us under their wing and answered questions and gave advice to help out the newer pipe smokers.

Well, I'm offering it to anyone here on the forum who is a new pipe smoker or is interested in pipe smoking. I've smoked cigars for over 11 years and have dabbled in pipe smoking for most of those years but only got really serious about it about a year ago.

Ask me here or shoot me a PM. If I can't answer your question right away then I'll find the answer and get back to you.

Moderator, can you please make this a sticky thread? Thanks.


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## mikejh-cl (Jun 19, 2007)

hey hey, i have one.
during my first bowl which was the st james wood, i felt like the smoke was even lighter than i expected it would be, at some points i wasnt even sure i had smoke in my mouth until i blew it out

any thoughts


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

How much smoke did you have in your mouth? Smoking a pipe is different than smoking a cigar and it is sometimes hard to make that transition. With smoking a cigar you usually have a whole mouthful of smoke and you can really taste it in there. With a pipe you usually don't have that much smoke unless you are lighting it up. Also, if the pipe is starting to go out then there will be less smoke in there and it is harder to taste.


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## mikejh-cl (Jun 19, 2007)

hmm, interesting, id never really read that anywhere, definately had much more on the light up but then the amount declined afterwards and just wasnt sure if that was normal or not, that helps though


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## TravelingJ-cl (Jun 20, 2008)

How do you pack it so that it actually stays lit?


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

TravelingJ said:


> How do you pack it so that it actually stays lit?


Ahhh, that is the age old question and one that I'm not sure anyone knows the answer to. There are a ton of different styles, the three part pack, the Frank Method, the gravity method, the fill and stuff, etc.

I think that a lot depends on the pipe and also the cut of tobacco. If it is a loose cut tobacco or a ribbon cut then I usually use the three part pack. If it is a rubbed out flake or cube cut blend then I usually fill the bowl to the top and then grab a pinch more between my thumb and forefinger and stuff it down until that is even with the top of the pipe. You don't want to pack rubbed out flake or cube cut too tightly because it takes longer to burn and needs more air to accomplish this.

The other factors that can effect this are the wetness of the tobacco ahead of time, how hard you puff on it and the type of tobacco involved. Steam is a natural by-product from the burning of the tobacco. If the tobacco is really wet ahead of time then this adds to that steam. If you over puff the blend just to try and keep it lit then that adds even more steam to the mix. All this moisture involved is going to make it harder and harder to keep the bowl lit.

The easiest way to combat this moisture is to dry out the blend to your preferance ahead of time and then try and smoke the pipe slowly. If your pipe starts to go out then let it rather than puffing like a steam engine to try and keep it lit. All of that moisture and steam can also alter the taste of the tobacco to something that is far from pleasant. Why ruin the rest of the bowl when you can simply just light another match and start it back up again.

It does take some time. And I know that it is frustrating but it does come along eventually. And even then it's not always 100%. You will slowly but surely figure out how to smoke your favorite blends. For example, I smoke a lot of Samuel Gawith's Best Brown. It comes in a flake and I rub it out as much as I can. I dry it immediately after I rub it out and then put it away to smoke later. When I want a bowl, I dry it out again just to make sure that most of the moisture is out of it. I then use the fill and stuff method in a bent bulldog pipe. Why a bent bulldog? I don't know. I just found that this blend burns better and tastes better in this shape pipe rather than the Zulu and straight billiards that I have. I know that the first part of the bowl will be a challenge to keep lit but if I persevere then once I hit 1/3 of the bowl through that it will smoke all of the way to the bottom.

That knowledge only comes through many bowls of trial and error. Smoking a pipe is definitely a practice in patience. One that I think will last your entire pipe smoking career.


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## adamsdb (Aug 24, 2007)

I have always been intrigued by pipe smoking. I have even thought about giving it a whirl to try it out. However, I don't want to invest a whole bunch of money for something that I may not take up regularly. How much money should I be willing to spend to get started? Then, how much will it cost to continue to smoke if I decide to continue? is it comparable to cigar smoking?

Thanks,


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## Rowdymon (Dec 19, 2007)

Dwain

I think it depends on what your disposable income is...

When I decided I wanted to give pipe smoking a try I put on a budget of $100 to get the pipe, accessories and some various tobacco products to try...

You can start out with a corncob pipe as many have suggested here...I've seen them for as little as $5, get a few pipe cleaners $2-3, a tamper...$1-5, and some baccy...mine was $3 an oz...and go...

I would say pick a budget you are comfy spending and make it work that way...then again, I bought my first pipe Saturday...so what do I know...LOL


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## Mithrandir-cl (Jul 30, 2006)

*Great thread,*

Just received my first pipe kit today---medium meer, 5 pack sampler of English tobacco, tool and pipe cleaners. Been reading a lot on the subject and am happy to see this thread. Will probably field test the pipe sometime this week.

Sam


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

adamsdb said:


> I have always been intrigued by pipe smoking. I have even thought about giving it a whirl to try it out. However, I don't want to invest a whole bunch of money for something that I may not take up regularly. How much money should I be willing to spend to get started? Then, how much will it cost to continue to smoke if I decide to continue? is it comparable to cigar smoking?
> 
> Thanks,


Okay, first let me preface this by saying that I still love to smoke cigars. Much to my wife's dismay I an firmly entrenched in both the slippery slope of cigars and pipe smoking. Not trying to talk anyone out of cigars but just writing this for people who are interested in pipe smoking.

Now that that is out of the way, to answer your last question first and then a little Economics lesson, it is actually a lot cheaper than smoking cigars. This is why there seems to be a resurgence of pipe smoking especially in the younger, college student area. We were all broke once and know how this goes.

Let's dig a little deeper. I think that I have posted this somewhere else but I'll go over it again. The normal average is about 10 bowls of pipe tobacco per ounce of pipe tobacco. Each bowl normally lasts about an hour, similar to a cigar. Now most pipe tobacco tins are around 2 ounces, which is 20 bowls worth or 20 hours of smoking pleasure. Let's say that an average price for a 2 ounce tin of pipe tobacco is $9.00. When you divide that $9 by the 20 bowls that are in there you come out with .45 cents per bowl.

Now lets do the same with one of my favorite cigars. A box of 20 El Rey del Mundo Robustos costs $64 on JR's website which is the cheapest that I can find. Now divde that $64 by the 20 cigars and you get $3.20 per cigar.

As you can see, it is $2.75 cheaper to smoke a bowl of the pipe tobacco than to smoke a cigar. Talk about savings!!

Now let's talk about the start-up cost. Like most hobbies, you can spend as much or as little as you want to get started. If you don't want to invest a lot up front, and I don't blame you, then let's talk about what you really need to get started.

The Pipe
You can buy an expensive briar or what most people do when they get started is buy a few corn cob pipes. They are usually around $5 and you can get them at most drug stores or tobacconists.

There are also a ton, and I mean a ton, of Estate Pipes which are for sale on ebay. What "Estate" means is a formaly smoked pipe that has been cleaned up to sell. These can range in prices but you can usually find a decent one for around $20

The Tobacco
Any tobacconist worth their salt will have some house blends available for purchase in bulk. They usually run around $2 for an ounce so you can get a bunch of different ones to find out your preference without dropping a wad of cashola. Once you find out your preferences then you can start exploring the world of pipe tobacco. If you think that there are a lot of cigar manufacturers and blends out there you haven't seen anything until you start researching pipe tobacco blends.

The Tools
You will need a pipe tool which usually has a tamper, scraper, and a poker all wrapped into one. These are usually about $2.

You will also need a pack of pipe cleaners. These usually run around $1.50 for 40 of them.

And that's all you need to get started. Let's break that down in the cheapest possible way:

$5 - corn cob pipe
$2 - an ounce of pipe tobacco
$2 - pipe tool
$1.50 - pipe cleaners

$10.50 - Total start-up costs.

Probably not as much as you though it would be is it?


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## Mithrandir-cl (Jul 30, 2006)

My pipe kit was $43.....medium meer, 5 different 1 oz. English blends, tool and pipe cleaners. I'll be using wooden matches for lighting. Have a ton of them for my cigars. I remember when an ounce of pot was $15. That was about 40 years ago.


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## Dun killin time (Jun 4, 2007)

My B&M carries a lot of different bulk brands McClelland, Dan/CAO, Dunhill, and of course Lane. my question is are these the same as the stuff in the tins? Is there more PG in the bulk stuff? If I like say, Blue Note, #965, or MC 5100 red cake, IYO would it be even better from a tin?

BTW I have yet to find a CAO that I didn't like!! though I've only tried 3, my favorite aero & non aero are CAO/Dan blends.


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## ~Robbie~ (Jul 25, 2008)

adamsdb said:


> I have always been intrigued by pipe smoking. I have even thought about giving it a whirl to try it out. However, I don't want to invest a whole bunch of money for something that I may not take up regularly. How much money should I be willing to spend to get started? Then, how much will it cost to continue to smoke if I decide to continue? is it comparable to cigar smoking?
> 
> Thanks,


Let me preface everything I am going to say with this: we are a cigar store that offers a limited selection of pipe tobacco and even more limited selection of pipes, just enough to offer a service to customers, not get into the pipe business.

We offer two different "levels" of pipes: $30 "basket" pipes and then one single brand of "premium" pipes: Peterson. We only offer the regular lines from Peterson, not high grades, so we don't carry a pipe that costs more than $150, and few that we carry cost more than $100.

Here's what we generally suggest for someone who is getting started and doesn't know if they will stick with it: buy one of the basket pipes (most stores will offer something like this), as this will be something that you can afford to not use if you don't stick with it, but on the other hand, will be a decent starter pipe if you start to enjoy smoking a pipe and really turn into a serious pipe smoker. Then, we have samples both to smell and taste of our tobaccos (all tinned, no bulk). Most people can decide pretty quickly whether they want to start with aromatic tobaccos or whether they want a mild virginia or english blend (and some do opt for something like Dunhill's Early Morning Pipe). When a person is making a purchase like this we know they are unsure about what they want as they are both new to it and don't even know if they will continue with it. Also, things like tampers and pipe cleaners are high-margin items for retailers. So, if a person buys a basket pipe and a tin of tobacco then I always through in a tamper and a bag of pipe cleaners, and possibly even a plastic folding pipe stand if they are buying multiple tins or a Peterson instead of a basket pipe. I want their first experience with a pipe to be enjoyable, not something they regret if they don't enjoy it at first or have trouble getting used to it. I guess what I am saying is that if you are willing to invest up to $40-$50 for a starter pipe and a tin or two of some premium tobacco then you will quickly be able to learn whether or not you might enjoy learning to smoke a pipe. It can be done for less than that, but if you can afford $40 to give it a try then you will really get some decent quality tobacco and starter pipe. You wouldn't want your experience to be ruined by the tobacco itself. However, the corncob pipe mentioned is certainly a good option for even less money.

Now, let's say that you do enjoy it and become a true pipe smoker. To answer your question I would say that cost-wise it is quite similar to cigar smoking and both cigar smoking and pipe smoking are hobbies that are limited only by your budget. While enough super-premium pipe tobacco for a 1 hour smoke costs a lot less than a super-premium cigar, you will find yourself developing two very serious disorders: P.A.D. & T.A.D. (Pipe Acquisition Disorder and Tobacco Acquisition Disorder). Just like cigars you will eventually want to build up both a good selection of tobacco, but also a good inventory of your favorites to put away for aging.

But P.A.D. is where the cost really hit me hard. Tobacco is relatively inexpensive. Pipes, however, can be EXTREMELY expensive, especially by the dozen 

The bottom line is that you can give pipe smoking a whirl for a very small investment and if you like it you can let it grow as much or as little as you want and can afford. It is a great hobby and you will meet great people in the pipe smoking community (just as you will in the cigar smoking community).

I hope that you at least give it a try and report back on your experience.


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Thanks for your input Robbie!! Would you or your shop be willing to put together any kind of Starter Kit for anyone interested?


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## adamsdb (Aug 24, 2007)

Wow, thanks for all the great information. I have my latest CBid shipment coming in this week so my budget is nil at the moment. I will have to wait a few weeks to get started. 

What would be a good tobacco to start with? I don't think I will go for the arromatic stuff right away and I don't want something that is too strong. Although, my first cigar was a Sancho Panza ISOM. Man, I was lightheaded after 2 puffs.

You guys are getting me excited to get started.

Thanks again.


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Dun killin time said:


> My B&M carries a lot of different bulk brands McClelland, Dan/CAO, Dunhill, and of course Lane. my question is are these the same as the stuff in the tins? Is there more PG in the bulk stuff? If I like say, Blue Note, #965, or MC 5100 red cake, IYO would it be even better from a tin?
> 
> BTW I have yet to find a CAO that I didn't like!! though I've only tried 3, my favorite aero & non aero are CAO/Dan blends.


Some of those that you listed are only available in bulk form. Most of the McClelland Bulk blends are not available in tin form.

This arguement comes up from time to time with both sides claiming that theirs tastes better. For example, I have a buddy who loves Samuel Gawith's Full Virginia Flake (FVF). But he only likes the tinned version. Even though the bulk version is a lot cheaper he will only buy it in tins. He claims that the tinned version tastes fresher to him. I never could tell the difference in the blends that I smoke that come in both bulk and tinned versions. There are some arguements that the bulk form allows more oxygen around the tobacco thus changing the taste a bit. Heck, I've had tinned versions that tasted a little different from one tin to another. I think that this is another one of those preference things. My motto is to try everything and then figure out what you like.

As far as the CAO/Dan blends. I agree with you!! I love Treasures of Ireland - Galway and Treasures of Ireland - Limerick. The only snag is that CAO stopped making pipe tobacco this year in order to focus more on their cigars. They were also the US distributer of the Dan tobaccos and they no longer do that as well. Not sure which blends were CAO and which ones were Dan blends but we may see a few of these disappear because of that. Also, until Dan Tobacco gets another US distributer (which may have already happened) there might be a bit of a shortage on some of these blends.


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

adamsdb said:


> Wow, thanks for all the great information. I have my latest CBid shipment coming in this week so my budget is nil at the moment. I will have to wait a few weeks to get started.
> 
> What would be a good tobacco to start with? I don't think I will go for the arromatic stuff right away and I don't want something that is too strong. Although, my first cigar was a Sancho Panza ISOM. Man, I was lightheaded after 2 puffs.
> 
> ...


Well, that's hard to answer. It's like taking someone into a full humidor and trying to pick out one cigar that you think that they will like. Most beginners start with the aromatics and then branch out from there some don't but there aren't any rules here.

One good place is to start on this website:

http://agingfaq.nocturne.org/touchstones.php

On that page it gives a breakdown of what different blends of pipe tobacco there are out there and the characteristics of each. It also gives a few blends that are examples of each genre.

I would recommend that you find one that strikes your fancy and then go out and find it. Most of what they list on there are tinned blends but if your local tobacconist has bulk blends then you can figure out what type of tobacco you would like to try (Virginia for example) and then go to the tobacconist and see if they have a house blend of that type. I'll probably say this 100 times on here but, just as with cigars, it's mostly trial and error. What works for me might not work for you and so on and so on.


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## Fatmandu (Mar 18, 2008)

Scott, great idea for a thread!


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Feel free to chime in anytime FJ. We gotta help these guys out!!!


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## adamsdb (Aug 24, 2007)

Anyone up for a newbie trade. Like I said before, I have a big CBid order coming in this week so my funds are seriously restricted. Although, I am willing to trade some cigars for a pipe starter kit. Anyone interested? My humi isn't like some of those oon here, but I can probably put something together that will be worth thee while.


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## WarHorse (Apr 11, 2007)

Great thread Scott. I'm subscribed, tuned in and takin notes! Thanks to all for the great comments so far.


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

I'm glad that everyone is finding this thread helpful. Come on, there's got to be more questions out there.


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## adamsdb (Aug 24, 2007)

Okay, I don't mean to hoard the thread, but I will go ahead anyway. Will my torch lighter work for lighting the tobacco or should I go to matches or a standard flame lighter?


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## koolhandk (Dec 17, 2007)

Ohh Ohh me me I got a question!!! I was talking with webby when we got our chance to hang out together (which was a lot of fun) and we both mentioned that we tend to smoke our pipes more in the winter. My question is, is this a normal practice? I just find myself craving a pipe more when it is freezing outside plus (I know this part is the biggest reason) I mostly smoke aromatics (except because of crazy ass FJ I am liking lat too) so my fiancée doesn't seem to mind if I have a small bowl in the house. I have lit up a bowl a couple of times this summer but the mystique just isn’t there and I know I still enjoy smoking the pipe so the best I can figure is that it is psychologically a seasonal thing.


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

adamsdb said:


> Okay, I don't mean to hoard the thread, but I will go ahead anyway. Will my torch lighter work for lighting the tobacco or should I go to matches or a standard flame lighter?


DO NOT EVER AND I MEAN EVER, USE YOUR TORCH LIGHTER ON A PIPE!!! Torch lighters will scorch your pipe as they are not able to withstand the heat and flame that is put out by a torch lighter. You have to use matches or a soft flame lighter like a Zippo.


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

koolhandk said:


> Ohh Ohh me me I got a question!!! I was talking with webby when we got our chance to hang out together (which was a lot of fun) and we both mentioned that we tend to smoke our pipes more in the winter. My question is, is this a normal practice? I just find myself craving a pipe more when it is freezing outside plus (I know this part is the biggest reason) I mostly smoke aromatics (except because of crazy ass FJ I am liking lat too) so my fiancée doesn't seem to mind if I have a small bowl in the house. I have lit up a bowl a couple of times this summer but the mystique just isn't there and I know I still enjoy smoking the pipe so the best I can figure is that it is psychologically a seasonal thing.


No, I think that it is normal for many reasons. I started out this way as well. Mine was more of a fact that I was busier in the summer and didn't have time to sit down and smoke a pipe. A cigar was more mobile and could go with me wherever I was going. I still usually smoke aromatics in the winter along with the heavier Latakia blends. Summer is usually Virginias and VaPer blends.


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## mikejh-cl (Jun 19, 2007)

it seems to me that the taste of cigars really suffers when smoking in a cold environment, is this not the same for pipe tobaccos?


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

mikejh said:


> it seems to me that the taste of cigars really suffers when smoking in a cold environment, is this not the same for pipe tobaccos?


I don't think so but then again I live on the coast of North Carolina. We don't get much snow here in the winter and it very rarely gets way below freezing. I usually smoke in the garage in the winter where it's cold but not too bad.

My only thoughts would be that it wouldn't be as drastic because the tobacco is inside a container (the pipe) that heats up and stays warm the whole time that you are smoking it. You don't have that with a cigar.


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## Ceedee (Jun 2, 2006)

Made this a sticky for you all. Scott, this is great stuff. I got to learn a ton already... perhaps sometime in the future, I will jump into the cool "pipe" end of the pool 

CD


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Thanks Chris!! Let me know when you're ready to come over to the dark side. Ask Webby how I tore him up when he first started with the pipe.


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## koolhandk (Dec 17, 2007)

Ceedee said:


> Made this a sticky for you all. Scott, this is great stuff. I got to learn a ton already... perhaps sometime in the future, I will jump into the cool "pipe" end of the pool
> 
> CD


C'mon in the water is just fine.


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## ~Robbie~ (Jul 25, 2008)

Slow Triathlete said:


> Thanks for your input Robbie!! Would you or your shop be willing to put together any kind of Starter Kit for anyone interested?


Sorry to just reply to this, I must have missed this reply. This is a loaded question for me as a member of this board. What I mean by that is I get a lot of business from another board and I am quite content with that, I came to cigarlive for discussions, not to solicit for business. I wouldn't want anyone to think that my offering something like this would make it appear as though I was doing so. Since (unfortunately) the Pipe Smoking section of the board probably isn't the most frequented part of the site I'll go ahead and say yes, I'll offer a starter kit with a pipe, some tobacco and necessary accessorries, and anyone interested can just send me a message or email asking for details. I don't want to advertise it on the open forum. I hope you understand where I am coming from. I want to help and certainly don't mind the business, but I really just want to be one of the guys on here, learning from those more experienced than me and here to help those that are new.


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## Webmeister (Jun 12, 2007)

Slow Triathlete said:


> Thanks Chris!! Let me know when you're ready to come over to the dark side. Ask Webby how I tore him up when he first started with the pipe.


True dat! Between Scott and FJ, I got the snuff kicked outta me. Now look what's happened. They've created a monster...


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## Ceedee (Jun 2, 2006)

Slow Triathlete said:


> Thanks Chris!! Let me know when you're ready to come over to the dark side. Ask Webby how I tore him up when he first started with the pipe.


Ya never know my brother... never know! 

CD


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## Dun killin time (Jun 4, 2007)

~Robbie~ said:


> Sorry to just reply to this, I must have missed this reply. This is a loaded question for me as a member of this board. What I mean by that is I get a lot of business from another board and I am quite content with that, I came to cigarlive for discussions, not to solicit for business. I wouldn't want anyone to think that my offering something like this would make it appear as though I was doing so. Since (unfortunately) the Pipe Smoking section of the board probably isn't the most frequented part of the site I'll go ahead and say yes, I'll offer a starter kit with a pipe, some tobacco and necessary accessorries, and anyone interested can just send me a message or email asking for details. I don't want to advertise it on the open forum. I hope you understand where I am coming from. I want to help and certainly don't mind the business, but I really just want to be one of the guys on here, learning from those more experienced than me and here to help those that are new.


Robbie, you can be 'just one of the guys' and still offer stuff like this on the forum I've sold/traded stuff and Slow Triathlete put some nice starter pipe and samplers together.
http://www.cigarlive.com/forum/t16446-new-to-pipes-samplers.html
stuff like this is appreciated and well received...


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## TravelingJ-cl (Jun 20, 2008)

Well guys, we went and found the pipes last week. As seen in this link, I found quite a few pipes! Right now I need to get them all cleaned up (as mentioned in that thread) before I get to smoking them. Is there a good way to do this at home? Or do I have to take them to a B&M? I'd rather do it all myself, it at all possible. I already have 3 picked out that I can't wait to fire up!


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## TravelingJ-cl (Jun 20, 2008)

And another question...what makes a pipe a starter pipe? Doe they not last as long? Smoke as well? Have as nice of a finish?


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## Bigfoot (Jun 25, 2007)

Slow Triathlete said:


> Some of those that you listed are only available in bulk form. Most of the McClelland Bulk blends are not available in tin form.
> 
> This arguement comes up from time to time with both sides claiming that theirs tastes better. For example, I have a buddy who loves Samuel Gawith's Full Virginia Flake (FVF). But he only likes the tinned version. Even though the bulk version is a lot cheaper he will only buy it in tins. He claims that the tinned version tastes fresher to him. I never could tell the difference in the blends that I smoke that come in both bulk and tinned versions. There are some arguements that the bulk form allows more oxygen around the tobacco thus changing the taste a bit. Heck, I've had tinned versions that tasted a little different from one tin to another. I think that this is another one of those preference things. My motto is to try everything and then figure out what you like.
> 
> As far as the CAO/Dan blends. I agree with you!! I love Treasures of Ireland - Galway and Treasures of Ireland - Limerick. The only snag is that CAO stopped making pipe tobacco this year in order to focus more on their cigars. They were also the US distributer of the Dan tobaccos and they no longer do that as well. Not sure which blends were CAO and which ones were Dan blends but we may see a few of these disappear because of that. Also, until Dan Tobacco gets another US distributer (which may have already happened) there might be a bit of a shortage on some of these blends.


PHillips and King picked up Dan Tobacco. Any retailer can purchase it thru them.

Bigfoot


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Thanks for stepping up Robbie. It will help out tremendously!!


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

TravelingJ said:


> Well guys, we went and found the pipes last week. As seen in this link, I found quite a few pipes! Right now I need to get them all cleaned up (as mentioned in that thread) before I get to smoking them. Is there a good way to do this at home? Or do I have to take them to a B&M? I'd rather do it all myself, it at all possible. I already have 3 picked out that I can't wait to fire up!


Justin,

I'll PM you with what you need to do. It will be too long for in the forum.


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Bigfoot said:


> PHillips and King picked up Dan Tobacco. Any retailer can purchase it thru them.
> 
> Bigfoot


I knew that Bigfoot would chime in sooner or later!!! Guys, don't let Brian's job fool you. He's a true Brother of the Briar!!


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## dcsmoke (Jul 10, 2008)

I have a simple question. Do you tend to smoke your pipe all the way to the bottom and then dump the ash, or do you remove ash as you go? It seems I have more trouble keeping it lit when I have a bunch of ash on top. However, I wind up dumping a small amount of tobacco when I dump the ash. I guess I could try scooping it. Any thoughts?


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## Dun killin time (Jun 4, 2007)

dcsmoke said:


> I have a simple question. Do you tend to smoke your pipe all the way to the bottom and then dump the ash, or do you remove ash as you go? It seems I have more trouble keeping it lit when I have a bunch of ash on top. However, I wind up dumping a small amount of tobacco when I dump the ash. I guess I could try scooping it. Any thoughts?


I also have a related question to the above...
After I get a bowl started, usually takes 4 to 5 lites, I'm good for about 35 to 45 min, then the bottom 1/4 of the bowl I have trouble keeping the fire going. I'm trying to build a little cake in the bottom of the bowls(all new pipes) so I'm trying to smoke the tobacco completely. I've tried dumping a little of the ash(helps some), stirring a little to break the top of the ash then retamping lightly(also helps some). I guess my question is, is there any thing I can do to improve this? ie... packing, tamping, or is this just the way it is?


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

dcsmoke said:


> I have a simple question. Do you tend to smoke your pipe all the way to the bottom and then dump the ash, or do you remove ash as you go? It seems I have more trouble keeping it lit when I have a bunch of ash on top. However, I wind up dumping a small amount of tobacco when I dump the ash. I guess I could try scooping it. Any thoughts?


Good question. There is a lot of debate out there about this one as well. Some people say that you shouldn't dump, some people say you should dump halfway.

What I have found is that for me it depends on two things. The type of tobacco that you have and how big of a bowl your pipe has. Some tobacoo (and I haven't narrowed it down to a specific type) seems to either produce more ash or more dense of an ash and it tends to choke of the oxygen that your pipe needs to stay lit. If I notice that it is getting harder to keep lit I'll dump a bit off but not all. Ash does have some benefit to being there on top such as keeping the tobacco burning evenly and it keeps the tobacco from burning too hot or too fast. So when you dump be sure to keep a small layer of ash on top.

The other factor to me depends on the size or depth of the bowl that you are smoking. I have some pretty shallow pipes that I don't ever have to dump ash off of. But then again I have a very tall bowled pipe that I have to dump off twice at least.


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Dun killin time said:


> I also have a related question to the above...
> After I get a bowl started, usually takes 4 to 5 lites, I'm good for about 35 to 45 min, then the bottom 1/4 of the bowl I have trouble keeping the fire going. I'm trying to build a little cake in the bottom of the bowls(all new pipes) so I'm trying to smoke the tobacco completely. I've tried dumping a little of the ash(helps some), stirring a little to break the top of the ash then retamping lightly(also helps some). I guess my question is, is there any thing I can do to improve this? ie... packing, tamping, or is this just the way it is?


There are several factors that could be at play here. I'll explain and then give you a tip to alleviate this.

The bottom of the bowl is a mysterious place. Most people have trouble burning down a whole bowl while they are beginning and I still know seasoned veterans who can't smoke a pipe down. A couple of things could be at play here. In an earlier post I explained how steam is produced as a natural process of smoking and that any extra moisture that is in the tobacco is also brought out. Well, most of that stuff sinks to the bottom of the bowl and then there might be some saliva that has run down the bit into the bottom of the bowl. All of this moisture really makes it difficult to keep the tobacco lit down at the bottom.

Also, another factor that could happen, is that throughout the smoke some people tend to tamp too hard and that really compresses the tobacco at the very bottom. So much so that Oxygen cannot get in there to keep things lit.

The only a few things that you can do, and they all come with experience, is to make sure that your tobacco is dried out enough, that you don't puff too much or too hard, and that you don't tamp the crap out of your bowl when you're smoking it.

Now here's the tip that most people follow when breaking in a new pipe. In order to get some cake built up in the bottom of the bowl, most people will take the first week and only load the pipe 1/3 of the way full and then smoke it down all the way. This way there isn't enough time for the moisture to build up. The next week they only fill it to the 1/2 way and then the next week 2/3 and then the next week a full pipe.


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## dcsmoke (Jul 10, 2008)

Slow Triathlete said:


> Good question. There is a lot of debate out there about this one as well. Some people say that you shouldn't dump, some people say you should dump halfway.
> 
> What I have found is that for me it depends on two things. The type of tobacco that you have and how big of a bowl your pipe has. Some tobacoo (and I haven't narrowed it down to a specific type) seems to either produce more ash or more dense of an ash and it tends to choke of the oxygen that your pipe needs to stay lit. If I notice that it is getting harder to keep lit I'll dump a bit off but not all. Ash does have some benefit to being there on top such as keeping the tobacco burning evenly and it keeps the tobacco from burning too hot or too fast. So when you dump be sure to keep a small layer of ash on top.
> 
> The other factor to me depends on the size or depth of the bowl that you are smoking. I have some pretty shallow pipes that I don't ever have to dump ash off of. But then again I have a very tall bowled pipe that I have to dump off twice at least.


Thanks! Good info here, as usual!


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## Oxman (Jun 28, 2008)

Slow Triathlete said:


> Justin,
> 
> I'll PM you with what you need to do. It will be too long for in the forum.


As for cleaning of pipes, If you've typed it out, I'd sure appreciate reading it. If this new obsession (pipes) goes the way I think it'll go, I'm likely to be buying LOTS of estate pipes in the future!


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## Fatmandu (Mar 18, 2008)

DKT, et al..another reason for the non burning at the bottom is that the hole in the bowl is not drilled to the bottom(est) most part of the bowl, hence no oxygyn and no burn. If this is the situation there are a couple things you can do, either get used to it or pipe mud the bottom of the bowl...meaning wet ash to fill the bowl. like putty. Easier to just get used to it. 
Anothet reason to not dump is that once you are finished w/a bowl, place your thumb over the top of the bowl and shake the living....shake up the pipe real good to get the ashes spread throught the bowl. Then simply turn the bowl over in an ash tray, DUMP, not tap....let that baby sit for a day or 3 and thus the caking process has begun, and increases each time!


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## Webmeister (Jun 12, 2007)

I don't find myself dumping often, although I do sometimes set the pipe down for 5-10 mins, tamp lightly, and relight. Good description by Scott, and good call by FJ on the bore from the stem not being at the lowest point in the bowl (I've seen such a pipe). One of the resources I read told of a way to essentially generate a really hard shell/cake at the bottom to raise it to the entry point of the hole. I can't remember for sure, but I think it was a mixture of water and honey comes to mind. It fuses together with the ash like liquid steel. 

Search the pipe resources for fixing a bowl where the hole isn't at the bottom. You should find the answer. I remember thinking "dang, that's ingenious and so simple!"


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

I tried that fix one time and it worked with mixed results. It's mixing existing ash and honey to make a thick paste. Then you put a pipe cleaner down your draft hole so that it doesn't get clogged and then pour the paste in. Then let it harden over a week and you're good to go. Unfortunately, I think that I put in too much honey and mine never really hardened.

After a few weeks I figured what the hell and lit it up. It immediately tasted like honey mixed with a little bit of ass. I got rid of the pipe.


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## adamsdb (Aug 24, 2007)

UUUUMMMMM Honey and Ass, my favorite.

That is probably the pipe you sold as a Starter Kit!!! HA HA HA HA

Some poor cigar smoker can't figure out what you pipe guys see in the taste of honey and ass. You turned him off to pipes forever.


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Ha-Ha, no I would never do that to someone.

That one got eaten by the trashcan a few years ago.


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## Dun killin time (Jun 4, 2007)

Fatmandu said:


> DKT, et al..another reason for the non burning at the bottom is that the hole in the bowl is not drilled to the bottom(est) most part of the bowl, hence no oxygyn and no burn. If this is the situation there are a couple things you can do, either get used to it or pipe mud the bottom of the bowl...meaning wet ash to fill the bowl. like putty. Easier to just get used to it.
> Anothet reason to not dump is that once you are finished w/a bowl, place your thumb over the top of the bowl and shake the living....shake up the pipe real good to get the ashes spread throught the bowl. Then simply turn the bowl over in an ash tray, DUMP, not tap....let that baby sit for a day or 3 and thus the caking process has begun, and increases each time!


I think the hole position is fine, in fact, I believe if 'mud' were used in one of my pipes it would effect the draw the drilling is so low, that and the fact I have this problem with all my pipes. When I finish a bowl the bottom of the bowl is dry, even after blowing thru the stem, unless I have smoked a heavily cased aero. 
After reading Scott's post above I may be tamping too hard or not drying my tobacco enough. will make adjustments to both...

Thanks for the help guys!!!


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Good luck!!


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## Dun killin time (Jun 4, 2007)

Slow Triathlete said:


> The only a few things that you can do, and they all come with experience, is to make sure that your tobacco is dried out enough, that you don't puff too much or too hard, and that you don't tamp the crap out of your bowl when you're smoking it.


Update...
Drying out the tobacco for 2 hours or so made a world of difference and I believe I was tamping too hard also.
I'm a farm boy you see, and my idea of tamping is what you do to the filler dirt around a new fence post.:lol:
finally smoked a bowl with less than 5 relights 2 of which were stop and go's

thanks again guys!!


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## kingtut (Oct 25, 2007)

As far as economics go: I wasn't sure I wanted to "invest" so my first pipe was a $5 corncob and with that I got some house blend tobacco. Loved it so I went back a bit later and bought a Savinelli second straight pipe for $45. I got some more tobacco, a tamper, and pipe cleaners and a case and left spending only $75. Later I went back and picked up a nifty pipe lighter (flame out the side) for $10. So total, I now have 2 pipes, a case, all the tools and enough tobacco to last for a long time and my total purchase is $90 bucks!


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## Fatmandu (Mar 18, 2008)

kingtut said:


> As far as economics go: I wasn't sure I wanted to "invest" so my first pipe was a $5 corncob and with that I got some house blend tobacco. Loved it so I went back a bit later and bought a Savinelli second straight pipe for $45. I got some more tobacco, a tamper, and pipe cleaners and a case and left spending only $75. Later I went back and picked up a nifty pipe lighter (flame out the side) for $10. So total, I now have 2 pipes, a case, all the tools and enough tobacco to last for a long time and my total purchase is $90 bucks!


nice, a SAVY is a nice pipe! If you fall for the pipe, here's a wee bit of math to assist you...say you smoke 1 cigar a day @ $6 or $7, multiply that by 30 days per month, you can but 3 SAVY's and really increase you're collection. G'luk


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

kingtut said:


> As far as economics go: I wasn't sure I wanted to "invest" so my first pipe was a $5 corncob and with that I got some house blend tobacco. Loved it so I went back a bit later and bought a Savinelli second straight pipe for $45. I got some more tobacco, a tamper, and pipe cleaners and a case and left spending only $75. Later I went back and picked up a nifty pipe lighter (flame out the side) for $10. So total, I now have 2 pipes, a case, all the tools and enough tobacco to last for a long time and my total purchase is $90 bucks!


Yep, it's easy to start down the slope. Isn't it!!


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## Ansgar (Sep 10, 2008)

*Keeping it lit*

I've smoke cigars about 10 years. Just bought me a Chacom, Dublin style pipe this week and got some Esoterica Scarborough tobacco to start. I've read a couple of articles online about how to pack the pipe. Although I think I'm generally getting it right, I can barely get the tobacco to burn long enough to smoke it. It goes like this: Light the pipes, get two puffs and I have to light it again.

The tobacco is ribboned, I guess. The strips are about two inches long. To me, being a total novice, it seems the tobacco is too moist. I left the pipe packed after my last attempt and tried a few hours later. The pipe worked a little better. I thought it was because the tobacco had dried out some.

I had tried a pipe about 30 yrs ago with a friend of mine. I don't remember it being so hard to keep lit. I really like how easy a cigar smokes, the full taste and the large smoke. =)

I doubt the pipe is a problem. It was around $70 online. I bought the best I could. I know it's likely operator error, but I wonder about the moisture content of the tobacco being a problem too.

What's your advice?


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## Fatmandu (Mar 18, 2008)

Roland, no harm in letting the tobacco sit for a while to dry out some. However, Esoterica has some real good quality tobacco, and a ribbon cut can be a pain to pack. The light you were taling about is also considered the 'false light'. light it up w/a few great puffs on it and then it'll go out. TAMP the then charred tobacco into the bowl and fire that sucker up again...every once in a while, (you'll figure what works for what pipes and/tobacco), GENTLY tamp it while smoking to keep the ambers on top of the un-cooked tobacco. Practice make better smoking. CHACOM is a damned good pipe and the Dublin is a great shape. Its a hobby and therefore nothing is 'wrong', things only get easier. have fun, welcome to the brierhood


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## Ansgar (Sep 10, 2008)

Fatmandu said:


> Roland, no harm in letting the tobacco sit for a while to dry out some. However, Esoterica has some real good quality tobacco, and a ribbon cut can be a pain to pack. The light you were taling about is also considered the 'false light'. light it up w/a few great puffs on it and then it'll go out. TAMP the then charred tobacco into the bowl and fire that sucker up again...every once in a while, (you'll figure what works for what pipes and/tobacco), GENTLY tamp it while smoking to keep the ambers on top of the un-cooked tobacco. Practice make better smoking. CHACOM is a damned good pipe and the Dublin is a great shape. Its a hobby and therefore nothing is 'wrong', things only get easier. have fun, welcome to the brierhood


Thanks for the reply. I got things working. It was definitely the moisture that was killing the fire, as you've pointed out (found in another thread).

I read an article last night where someone was talking about expensive vs. cheap tampers. Some of his statements seemed a little superstitious, except for bad metals being present in some cheap ones. What's all the fuss--really? Seems that a good tamper might be to go to Lowes, get an 3/8" oak dowel rod, and cut you off 3" at a time. That way you'd have totally natural material. If you're picky, carve out an indent for your fingers on one end. What do ya think?


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## Fatmandu (Mar 18, 2008)

Ansgar said:


> Thanks for the reply. I got things working. It was definitely the moisture that was killing the fire, as you've pointed out (found in another thread).
> 
> I read an article last night where someone was talking about expensive vs. cheap tampers. Some of his statements seemed a little superstitious, except for bad metals being present in some cheap ones. What's all the fuss--really? Seems that a good tamper might be to go to Lowes, get an 3/8" oak dowel rod, and cut you off 3" at a time. That way you'd have totally natural material. If you're picky, carve out an indent for your fingers on one end. What do ya think?


Shoot, a freaking nail works great as well...I kno an old timer who uses the tip of his index finger...he could break a brick with that thing, it so callused over! but to tamp the outter edges of the tobacco, meaning the inner edges of the bowl is the best way to tamp. Sort of tip the 'nail' and tamp, works best in my opinion. There is no right or wrong bro, its what ever works for you, be it a 10 penny nail of a high dollar set up, a Dunhill or a cob, Lane or GLPease t'baccy. Thats the beauty of a hobby..ITS YOURS, input is subjective...take what ya like, leave what ya call BS! We got some good Pipesters here, fire away w/any questions.


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## Panther (Sep 7, 2008)

I just began to smoke a pipe-A Dr. grabow filter pipe


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## Steve D-cl (Apr 3, 2007)

Have a tobacco storage question. I just picked up a tin and haven't opened it yet. I suspect the plastic lid on the tin isn't sufficient to keep the moisture in for a while once the the tin has been opened (I'll probably get to burn a bowl every week or three). What might provide better storage. A Mason jar maybe?

Thanks,

Steve D


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Mason Jar would be your best bet if you're not going to be smoking it very quickly. Yes, it will dry out if you don't do anything with it. If you are planning on smoking it faster though, a ziplock bag over the tin works great.


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Ansgar said:


> Thanks for the reply. I got things working. It was definitely the moisture that was killing the fire, as you've pointed out (found in another thread).
> 
> I read an article last night where someone was talking about expensive vs. cheap tampers. Some of his statements seemed a little superstitious, except for bad metals being present in some cheap ones. What's all the fuss--really? Seems that a good tamper might be to go to Lowes, get an 3/8" oak dowel rod, and cut you off 3" at a time. That way you'd have totally natural material. If you're picky, carve out an indent for your fingers on one end. What do ya think?


I agree with Fatmandu on this one. I've used a nail, finger, expensive tamper, etc and they all do the job fine.

I feel that the article that you read was probably some guy's justification for spending a lot of money on something that you can buy for cheap and do the same job with!!


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## Peanut (Aug 13, 2008)

Hello, Ok...I'm brand new with the pipe...I have 2 and 3 tobacco blends sitting next to me waiting for me to figure out how to smoke them. I have a McBaron 50/50 Cake & Dark Twist, a McClelland 5100 Red Cake and a Samuel Gawith FVF.

My questions are: 
What does it mean to Rub it out? 

Also I see alot of people getting tobacco and then drying it out. Any idea why it doesn't just come dryer? Such as in the case of bulk cigarette tobacco.

And a local rep here was telling me about Savenelli pipes and the use of their filter system. Would a filter be better, worse, easier, harder or just personal preference?

Thanks!

Peanut


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## happy1 (Jun 29, 2007)

Pm sent P-Nut


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## Peanut (Aug 13, 2008)

Thanks for that Happy1...


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Peanut said:


> Hello, Ok...I'm brand new with the pipe...I have 2 and 3 tobacco blends sitting next to me waiting for me to figure out how to smoke them. I have a McBaron 50/50 Cake & Dark Twist, a McClelland 5100 Red Cake and a Samuel Gawith FVF.
> 
> My questions are:
> What does it mean to Rub it out?
> ...


Great questions!!

Rubbing out is the act of breaking the tobacco up into smaller pieces. With most cut tobacco you don't need to do this. You will with flakes or broken flakes. Just put the tobacco in one palm and then rub it together with the other palm in a circular motion. This is what is called "rubbing the tobacco out".

Also as far as the tobacco wetness goes, the culprit is usually what we in the pipe world refer to as PG (the chemical Propylene Glycol). These are notorious in bulk blends but also in some of the tinned blends. The reason that manufacturers do this, especially in bulk blends, is so that the tobacco doesn't dry out on the shelves while it is waiting to be sold. Another reason that manufacturers sell it this way is because not everyone has the same preference for how moist they like their tobacco when they smoke it. I know guys who smoke it wet and other guys that like it bone dry.

As far as filters, it's a personal preference thing. I don't prefer them because it makes it impossible to pass a pipe cleaner down the stem in case you get a little moisture in the bottom while you're smoking. Some people love them, some people hate them. Try them out and see what you think.


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## GolfNut (Jun 29, 2008)

Back near the top of page two (post #37) of this thread, Travelinj had asked a question about what classifies a pipe as a Starter pipe. I'd like to hear the answer to this also. 

Being a newbie in the pipe field, I smoked my first bowl last night when a friend from the golf course came over and brought a couple of pipes. Cool looking carved Danish pipes of some kind. 

Yep, I'm hooked. Now I know the IRA is set to wipe me out next week, and I've read where it's not good practice to use the same pipe on different flavors of tobacco, so I see a need to acquire a number of pipes! I'm not the kind of guy to go gently into anything that I think I'm going to enjoy. This is represented by my having over $2000 worth of clubs in my golf bag after only 2 years of golfing. I DO get obsessive about some things! 

I see no use in spending $40 or so on a pipe right now, if it'll end up just sitting in a box somewhere once I really get into things. I'd rather go on the hunt for good quality pipes that will serve me well for years to come. 

Can you shed a little light on the whole Starter pipe thing for us all?

Thanks!


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## Fatmandu (Mar 18, 2008)

Hey pipester, if you are convinced that yer going to smoke a pipe for quite some time, I say go for it. If yer on the fence, and a starter pipe is, IMO, one that is relatively inexpensive and one that can be used to practice packing, breathing, clenching (which can put a hurt'n on a stem)..etc...starter, beginner,, practice, all synonomous. Also, another way to look at it is a pipe is an investment, it will last literally generations with proper care. Now what make one, say $100. pipe, a starter opposed to one that costs $500., only you can decide. I've seen some go for $1400. and personally kno of guys who wouldnt smoke one less than $500. Personal preference I suspect,. You can get one helluva smoke in a Savanelli for $45. and be hooked on Savvies. It's a hobby Brother, not a contest. There is such a thing out there as the 'Society of the Corn-Cob Snobs". Self indulged name, but thats all they smoke...get'n the job/hobby done at litle expense. When they burn out, toss it, buy another $5-$10. cob and....GET "ER DONE!


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## GolfNut (Jun 29, 2008)

Fatmandu said:


> Hey pipester, if you are convinced that yer going to smoke a pipe for quite some time, I say go for it. If yer on the fence, and a starter pipe is, IMO, one that is relatively inexpensive and one that can be used to practice packing, breathing, clenching (which can put a hurt'n on a stem)..etc...starter, beginner,, practice, all synonomous. Also, another way to look at it is a pipe is an investment, it will last literally generations with proper care. Now what make one, say $100. pipe, a starter opposed to one that costs $500., only you can decide. I've seen some go for $1400. and personally kno of guys who wouldnt smoke one less than $500. Personal preference I suspect,. You can get one helluva smoke in a Savanelli for $45. and be hooked on Savvies. It's a hobby Brother, not a contest. There is such a thing out there as the 'Society of the Corn-Cob Snobs". Self indulged name, but thats all they smoke...get'n the job/hobby done at litle expense. When they burn out, toss it, buy another $5-$10. cob and....GET "ER DONE!


OK then so we're not talking about limited lifespan, which I think is what Travelinj was questioning, and what I was wondering about. I was concerned about there being lifespan on some pipes as to either stems wearing out, bowls cracking etc after much use. Heck if a $20-$40 pipe can last a lifetime, then absolutely, they will be sought out! I will certainly be looking into the Savanelli you speak of too!

Good info FJ, and I appreciate it!

Corn-Cob Snobs! LOL. Sounds like a blast!


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## Fatmandu (Mar 18, 2008)

Now there is good, better, best briar, ofcourse you know more of that that I do with yer wood working. The 'burl' is often used as I believe MOST of the briar root is, meaning good, better, best. I have some better, and man they are feather light and my grandsons grandson will be able to use them. I also have one that i couldnt find anywhere on the net that i bought in Germany many year ago, it smokes hot, due to the thickness or lack thereof in the bowl, but a very good smoke just the same. I just have to slow it down and not let it get too hot. Its a journey Bro, you'll discover what you like more than others as time goes on. Also remember, what you can pay for a box of gars, say $6-7 per X's 20 per box...thats a pretty good LOOOOONG lasting pipe.


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## Panther (Sep 7, 2008)

I have recently been smoking filter pipes. Does anyone recommend a special type? I've been using the Dr Grabow filters with my Dr gr pipes. Can other 9mm filters be used with these pipes also? And can any 9mm filter work with any pipe that accepts these size filters? thanks


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## GolfNut (Jun 29, 2008)

*Question*

Do I need to dedicate a pipe for Latakia heavy blends? I ordered up some Frog Morton On the Town and am curious if this type should have it's own pipe or would it be alright to share with the likes of GLPease Westminster and SGalwith Full Virginia Flake which are 2 others I ordered.

I also have some Christmas Cheer 2008 coming which claims to be a naturally sweet VA. Will this play friendly with the above mentioned or should it go with my aromatic pipe?


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

GolfNut said:


> Do I need to dedicate a pipe for Latakia heavy blends? I ordered up some Frog Morton On the Town and am curious if this type should have it's own pipe or would it be alright to share with the likes of GLPease Westminster and SGalwith Full Virginia Flake which are 2 others I ordered.
> 
> I also have some Christmas Cheer 2008 coming which claims to be a naturally sweet VA. Will this play friendly with the above mentioned or should it go with my aromatic pipe?


Well, this is where people have a difference of opinions. Some people smoke everything in one pipe. Others feel that the scents and flavors of certain tobaccos carry over into the next few bowlfuls. This is called "Ghosting". Say you have a really heavy Cherry aromatic that you smoke one day. Then you pull that same pipe out the next day and smoke a straight Virginia in there. Chances are there will still be some cherry scent and flavor that you will taste in the straight Virginia from the day before.

Of course, I am talking just about briar pipes. Meer pipes and corncobs do not carry over scents and tastes and you can smoke anything in them. That is the draw that those pipes have.

Myself, I have different pipes dedicated to different blends. This is after a time of collecting pipes however. I even have two pipes that are for specific blends (my favorites). If I were new then I would just get one briar and then some cheap corncob pipes for the other blends for right now. Here's my breakdown:

Peterson 999 Rock of Cashel - Latakia blends
Peterson 268 Racing Green - Virginia/Perique
Peterson 268 Killarney - Virginia
Peterson 80s Killarney (red) - McConnell's Scottish Cake
Peterson 80s Killarney (ebony) - Gawith's Best Brown
Peterson Belgique - Virginia/Perique
Dr. Grabow Duke - Aromatic
Kaywoodie Standard - Aromatic
Old Brebbia Sabbiata - Anything
A few corncobs - Anything, usually for working in the yard


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Anyone, Anyone?


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## kingtut (Oct 25, 2007)

Here's one for you. I was at a RenFest and a friend gifted me pipe he found there sold at a hookah bar (my hookah experience sucked by the way...I'll stick to pipes and cigars!) Anyway, come to find out after his purchase that the pipe is synthetic. He asked the seller and he confirmed it. I've smoked it only once since then and it seemed to smoke fine (for the first smoke), but what is your opinion on synthetic pipes. Is there anything I should know?

thanks


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## Adam-d (Apr 2, 2008)

Here is a question that was touched on a little earlier in the thread but I wanted to ask again. 


I have read about starting a cake in your pipe and how one should use Honey and Ash to make a paste but as i was reading, someone said that it didn't work for them. so I guess my question is, what exactly does the cake do for a pipe, and what is the best way to go about building one up?


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## lrhisc (Apr 1, 2008)

*So what about storage*

Is leaving it in the bag or tin fine. I put my cigars in a humidor. How long will it keep and what kind of care do I need to take when storing it?


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## kingtut (Oct 25, 2007)

pipe guy doesn't seem to be answering anything anymore...


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## Patrick B (Nov 5, 2008)

kingtut said:


> pipe guy doesn't seem to be answering anything anymore...


Slow down, someone will see the question soon enough.


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

Speaking of tobacco storage, Walmart gots big mouth squarish glass jars with teflon seal pop off lids just like you see in pipe shops. Got some medium sized ones for $3.99 each. The mouth is big enough to scoop your pipe down there plus your hand.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

I know this is an old thread, (and I may have just missed it if it was already said), but I own a 300 cigar humidor that I purchased a couple of years ago. I have maybe 200 sticks in it at any given time. I make certain to maintain a 70% humidity level. Obviously this is to keep the smokes in a perfect smoking state and to keep beetles away and all. Does pipe tabacco need to be kept at a certain humidity level as well? I see some people like it wetter than others and some actually dry theirs out. Is pipe the dryness of pipe tabacco totally subjective?

Thanks guys,

Chris


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

Hendu3270 said:


> I know this is an old thread, (and I may have just missed it if it was already said), but I own a 300 cigar humidor that I purchased a couple of years ago. I have maybe 200 sticks in it at any given time. I make certain to maintain a 70% humidity level. Obviously this is to keep the smokes in a perfect smoking state and to keep beetles away and all. Does pipe tabacco need to be kept at a certain humidity level as well? I see some people like it wetter than others and some actually dry theirs out. Is pipe the dryness of pipe tabacco totally subjective?
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> Chris


It's totally subjective. However, 70% humidity is waaaaay too high for pipe tobacco. This is usually sold around 20% humidity.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Slow Triathlete said:


> It's totally subjective. However, 70% humidity is waaaaay too high for pipe tobacco. This is usually sold around 20% humidity.


Ahh, I gotcha. I was already thinking I didn't have enough room in my humidor and might have to buy another one, (which isn't neccesarily a bad thing ). Thanks for the quick reply!


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Ok, I just received my pipe in the mail. I bought a new Nicolo. I assumed the inside of the bowl would simply look like wood but it is black. Doea this sound right for a brand new pipe? Do I need to seaon this one and if so, what is the process?



Chris


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

Hendu3270 said:


> Ok, I just received my pipe in the mail. I bought a new Nicolo. I assumed the inside of the bowl would simply look like wood but it is black. Doea this sound right for a brand new pipe? Do I need to seaon this one and if so, what is the process?
> 
> Chris


I just got a Nording. Same thing. The pipe dealer told me it's a lining to protect the wood much like you would building a carbon film. He assured me there would be no funny taste. I have no idea what the material is. It may be commercial carbon for all I know. It did smoke nice the first bowl and actually was the best tasting virgin pipe I've experienced. I broke it in to build a carbon liner anyhow.


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

Here's a cool link for pipe seasoning and all kinds of other pipe stuff. Somewhere it also mentions the liner we are discussing.

http://vegassmokes.com/pipe-smoking-tips.htm#Ca

I think I got it here.

Some say to season it with half bowls and to work up to full bowls, some say to season it with full bowls from the beginning. Lots of different advice out there. Enjoy your new pipe.


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

Also, smoke with light puffs when breaking in to keep the pipe cool. May not be a concern with liner.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Thanks Johnny.


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## shortstory5 (Sep 3, 2008)

Is pipe smoke inhaled?


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

shortstory5 said:


> Is pipe smoke inhaled?


Only a few people inhale because the smoke is to strong.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Well my first pipe experience went pretty good. It lasted for a little less than an hour and i had to re-light it 4 or 5 times. I'm assuming I'll get better at keeping it lit with more experience. One thing that I did not like was that it started "gurgling". I was very carefull not to put my tongue on the tip when puffing but I'm not sure if it was spit or moisture from the tabacco combined with the heat, but whatever it was at onee point it got on my tongue and holy cow that's some nasty stuff! I ended up taking the mouthpiece out several times and blowing the liquid out. Any ideas how to prevent this or advice to keeping it lit?


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

When I started smoking, I found these tips in links posted on this forum and saved them in favorites. They were very helpful. Sounds like you were careful about saliva. Moistness of tobacco, the density of the pack, and how hot you're getting the pipe have a lot to do with a good bowl smoke. Also, the stem hole should enter the bowl hole at the very bottom. Otherwise it creates a condensate trap. Post if your pipe has this problem. There is a simple fix. Yea, pipe condensate is nasty stuff.



> Pipe Gurgle
> 
> We've all heard it and we've all had it, but what is it and what can be done about it? Pipe gurgle is caused when moisture gathers in the bottom of our bowl and bubbles about when we draw on our pipe. The moisture comes from three sources. The first is from tobacco that has a moisture content that is too high. When the moisture content of tobacco is too high it converts to steam and then the steam converts to liquid which sits in the bottom of the bowl. We've written quite a few articles about achieving the correct moisture content - please follow the link above. The second cause is saliva that finds it's way down the stem from our mouths. This can be corrected by changing our smoking habits to includes things such as not talking with our pipes in our mouths and placing our tongues over the tips of our pipes when not drawing. The third cause is the change of airflow when smoke leave the bowl and enters the stem. If the airway in the shank is significantly larger than the airway in the stem any steam in the smoke will condense and form moisture which will gather in the bowl. This can be addressed by enlarging and funneling the stem airway. This is a simple but delicate process that might be better off left to a professional.
> 
> ...





> Proper Moisture Content for Pipe Tobacco
> 
> Pipe tobacco differs from other tobacco products when it comes to moisture content. For cigars, the perfect moisture content is approximately 70 - 73 RH (relative humidity) @ 72°. This is generally too damp for pipe tobacco. While I'm on the subject let me address the matter of storing pipe tobacco in your cigar humidor. Simply put, it's a very bad idea. Besides the fact that a cigar humidor is too damp, pipe tobacco will impart a taste to the cigars they are stored with and vise versa. Also, if the pipe tobacco is placed against the humidor's cedar lining it will badly stain it. Pipe tobacco is best kept between 45 and 60 RH. I know this seems like a large range but it does cover the vast types of pipe tobacco. Different styles of pipe tobacco require different RH. Here is a rule of thumb to finding the right RH for each tobacco type you smoke.
> 
> ...


A little repeat here.



> Keeping Your Pipe Lit.
> 
> There are many tricks that can be using to keep your tobacco burning without constant re-lighting. This little trick will take a little time to master but once you do it will become second nature and part of your smoking habit. The concept behind this method is similar to a bellows. When you sense that your pipes is going out, simply blow into the stem very gently. After a few gentle breaths into the pipe you'll notice that your tobacco will begin to smolder and re-ignite. Now partially cover your bowl with your thumb and take a couple of deep puffs. Your tobacco should once again be fully lit. Ideally, you should practice this technique the whole time you are smoking your pipe and not wait until it is about to go out. Master this technique and you'll be able to smoke your pipe all the way to the bottom without ever having to re-light!





> How do I pack the pipe?
> 
> This is a frequently asked question and is the most important aspect of pipe smoking. Regardless of the quality of the pipe or the tobacco, if the tobacco is not properly loaded into the pipe chamber, the result is a poor and frustrating smoke.
> 
> ...


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Thank you sir! This definitely gives me some things to work on :thumb:


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Oh, and I also feel my tabacco is waaaay to moist. It's almost sticky. Should it not be kept in the plastic bag that it came in or is that fine?


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

SmokinJohnny said:


> Moistness of tobacco, the density of the pack, and how hot you're getting the pipe have a lot to do with a good bowl smoke. Also, the stem hole should enter the bowl hole at the very bottom. Otherwise it creates a condensate trap. Post if your pipe has this problem. There is a simple fix.


There were a few times that my pipe was pretty hot. Hot enough that I was forced to hold it by the stem and not the bowl. So I reckon that could be a source of moisture. Not sure if my bowl meets the "stem at the very bottom" criteria or not so I took a quick picture when I went home for lunch for you guys to see.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

You can see from the pic that it is in the bottom, (obviously) but doesn't come up from the center of the bottom.


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

The way the stem hole enters the bowl looks right in the pic. 

A zip lock bag should be OK. Or you can get one of those zipper pouches. 

Hard to describe but pipe tobacco should feel sort of damp. Enough that a few flakes cling to your fingers you when squish it. To dry it out, you can fluff some up and lay it on a paper towel for 10 to 30 minutes depending on how moist it is. You don't want it too dry or it smokes fast, hot, and tastes crappy dry.

If there's a tobacco shop near you, with jars of different tobaccos they weigh and bag on demand, you might want to try that too. It's usually good stuff and the right moisture level. They got all kinds of blends to try. Their "house blend" is usually aimed at beginning or casual smokers.

If it's getting too hot, try slowing down on your puffing. Like 5 to 15 seconds between draws. Could be the density of the pack too. I like to draw when I'm compressing a load in the bowl so I don't pack too loose or tight. There should be some resistance but not so much it feels plugged. 

If you don't have a pipe nail, you should have one. The blunt end is for packing a lit bowl and the flat end for smoothing out the carbon cake or scraping of excess ash. I like the all purpose tool that clips to a key chain. They're like a couple bucks.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Thanks Johnny:thumb:

I do have a tool. It has a tamp and a reamer on it.


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

Welcome. If you like cigars, you might like a light burley blend. The tounge bite is cigarish. I crave it. Tastes vary. You might hate it too.


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## bradleycheuk (Jul 3, 2007)

I was an ex-cigarette smoker before I got into Cigars because I really enjoyed the finer tobacco. I guess you can say I dipped my toes in Cigars but I don't really enjoy it as much as I thought I did before because I find the taste too harsh and they're rather fragile to keep well. So I would really be interested in starting a pipe because first of all it looks very cool, I like having a solid object that I can reuse over and over again and I like the fact that I need to pack my own tobacco which makes it more personal. So I know I need to get a pipe but that's about all I know. I know there are many different pipe shapes and sizes so does it really matter or are they just for looks? What are some good mild tobacco that I can put into the pipe? How do I keep my pipe clean? How do I light a pipe? 



Thank you very much for posting this thread I really appreciate this.



Brad


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

Probably the cheapest and easiest way to try pipe smoking is with a corn cob pipe, a pouch of Captain Black, and some pipe cleaners. All can be had for less than ten bucks. If you decide you like pipe smoking after three or four bowls, you can move up in quality and take it from there. Or if Captain Black tastes like crap, you might try a different blend.

A cheap pipe is a good idea because lighting it right and smoking it right is a learned thing. You don't want to overheat and scorch a good pipe. If you're a cigar and cig smoker, often times the toughest thing to get used to with pipe smoking is not puffing too hard. You want to puff just enough to keep the bowl lit so the tobacco flavors are at their best and you don't overheat the bowl. Or worse, damage the bowl on an expensive pipe. It's sort of a rythm thing. It's better to constantly re-light than to overheat.

A good first pipe is probably one with a straight stem. This is because the mouth sometimes tends to water and with a straight stem, the saliva isn't likely to drain into the bowl like it can with a half bent. Mild aromatics are a good choice for first time pipe smoking. Because tastes vary so much, a sampling of 4 or 5 different blends is a good idea.

This is a good site for first time pipe smoking.

Choosing Pipe Tobacco - The Key to Smoking Pipes | NotSoBoringLife.com


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## IHT (Dec 27, 2003)

WarHorse-cl said:


> Great thread Scott. I'm subscribed, tuned in and takin notes! Thanks to all for the great comments so far.


hey warhorse. we never got a chance to hang out...
i PM'ed you a while back on SF, but i rarely go there.

maybe one of these days we can meet for chow downtown and have a pipe.

OH, we're also having a get together down at Bonner Springs TOMORROW... there's a topic about it in the "herf section".

edit: holy chit, i thought this was a new topic.. must've been one transferred over from "live".
scott, it's my damn ADD, i'm tellin ya.


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## Silky01 (Jul 16, 2007)

bradleycheuk said:


> I was an ex-cigarette smoker before I got into Cigars because I really enjoyed the finer tobacco. I guess you can say I dipped my toes in Cigars but I don't really enjoy it as much as I thought I did before because I find the taste too harsh and they're rather fragile to keep well. So I would really be interested in starting a pipe because first of all it looks very cool, I like having a solid object that I can reuse over and over again and I like the fact that I need to pack my own tobacco which makes it more personal. So I know I need to get a pipe but that's about all I know. I know there are many different pipe shapes and sizes so does it really matter or are they just for looks? What are some good mild tobacco that I can put into the pipe? How do I keep my pipe clean? How do I light a pipe?


That's a lot of questions. Don't have time right now to answer all, but this link is a good place to start.
http://www.clubstogie.com/vb/showthread.php?t=175150


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Quick question for the pros.

I'm getting better at keeping my pipe lit for a longer period of time and also have been able to bring the heat of my pipe waaay down. Much more enjoyable now. HoweverI still want to make sure I'm packing it propertly. I'm just thinking maybe it would stay lit for the entire smoke if I was doing something differently when packing.

I do the three step pack....however, I read all this stuff about sprinkling loosely with the last amount of tobacco added on till it is "mounded" up about a half inch. My tobacco is strips that DO NOT mound up or "sprinkle" easily into the bowl. They have to be worked down into the bowl. Do I need to look for a particular "cut" of tobacco to get a better burning bowl?


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Hendu3270 said:


> Quick question for the pros.
> 
> I'm getting better at keeping my pipe lit for a longer period of time and also have been able to bring the heat of my pipe waaay down. Much more enjoyable now. HoweverI still want to make sure I'm packing it propertly. I'm just thinking maybe it would stay lit for the entire smoke if I was doing something differently when packing.
> 
> I do the three step pack....however, I read all this stuff about sprinkling loosely with the last amount of tobacco added on till it is "mounded" up about a half inch. My tobacco is strips that DO NOT mound up or "sprinkle" easily into the bowl. They have to be worked down into the bowl. Do I need to look for a particular "cut" of tobacco to get a better burning bowl?


It will all fall in place with practice and experience. Just keep smoking :nod:


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Mad Hatter said:


> It will all fall in place with practice and experience. Just keep smoking :nod:


I plan on doing that most definitely. :thumb:

But along with all the different types of tobacco's out there, do I also need to be attempting to decide what "cut" of tobacco I prefer as well?


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Hendu3270 said:


> I plan on doing that most definitely. :thumb:
> 
> But along with all the different types of tobacco's out there, do I also need to be attempting to decide what "cut" of tobacco I prefer as well?


I don't see any need to worry about it. You'll take a liking to one style or other as you get a little more time on your pipes. If you do want to search for that certain cut sign up for the newbie sampler trade in the WTS/B/T forums (you can only access them after a certain number of posts, soon if not already) http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/wts-b-t-pipe-stuff/ and those samples will help you experience the different cuts of tobacco


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Good deal. Thanks Mad!


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

I agree with Hatter, it will come to you. Sounds like you got the basics down. I've been doing just the three step pack followed by the false light and true light and it seems to work for me. But there is no one "right" way to do it really. Depends on the cut too like you inquire.

Cuts seem to depend on your favorite tobacco. The course cuts and ribbon cuts are just what my favorite tobaccos happen to be. They all take getting used to. Uhle's Perfection Plug Burley (my absolute favorite) is like bird gravel and that took some getting used to.

It's better to relight than smoke your pipe too hot. That way your getting the flavor. 

ipe::drinking:


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## ghe-cl (Apr 9, 2005)

I'm curious to know whether pipe tobacco is grown in the areas known for cigar tobacco, such as Cuba, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic, Mexica and Honduras.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Mad Hatter said:


> I don't see any need to worry about it. You'll take a liking to one style or other as you get a little more time on your pipes. If you do want to search for that certain cut sign up for the newbie sampler trade in the WTS/B/T forums (you can only access them after a certain number of posts, soon if not already) http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/wts-b-t-pipe-stuff/ and those samples will help you experience the different cuts of tobacco


I guess I don't have enough posts because it won't let me in. Don"t see what the requirements are either. No biggie....just rockin' along. I did just order a Bjarne Freehand today. Beautiful pipe!


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Hendu3270 said:


> I guess I don't have enough posts because it won't let me in. Don"t see what the requirements are either. No biggie....just rockin' along. I did just order a Bjarne Freehand today. Beautiful pipe!


I read in an older post you have to have a post count of 20 to access that forum :tea:


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Mad Hatter said:


> I read in an older post you have to have a post count of 20 to access that forum :tea:


Ahh, I gotcha. I'll check it out once I have the ability.


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

ghe said:


> I'm curious to know whether pipe tobacco is grown in the areas known for cigar tobacco, such as Cuba, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic, Mexica and Honduras.


Some is grown in those areas although the tobacco for cigars is a bit different. Such as Perique, which is a spice tobacco, is mostly grown in Louisiana. Then you have all of your Virginia tobaccos which may or may not be actually grown in Virginia. Same goes for Kentucky tobaccos.

It's very confusing actually.


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## DieHardAlbo (Feb 5, 2009)

Hey i don't know if any1 has gone over this or not in this forum so i apologize if i am repeating a question asked by another Puff Member. Well I'm new to Pipes, And i am wondering what are the Pro's and Con's to Wood and Steel Bowls. So Wood Vs Steel.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

DieHardAlbo said:


> Hey i don't know if any1 has gone over this or not in this forum so i apologize if i am repeating a question asked by another Puff Member. Well I'm new to Pipes, And i am wondering what are the Pro's and Con's to Wood and Steel Bowls. So Wood Vs Steel.


I don't think I've ever heard a good thing about a pipe with a metal bowl, not that there are a lot of them to be had. Metal doesn't cool the way wooden bowls do. There are metal pipes with wooden bowls that have a following but again the bowls are briar not metal.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

SmokinJohnny said:


> Also, the stem hole should enter the bowl hole at the very bottom. Otherwise it creates a condensate trap. Post if your pipe has this problem. There is a simple fix.


Alright Johnny, Let's here the simple fix. :smile: I now have a pipe that the hole is not all the way to the bottom of my bowl.


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## MMA_Alex (May 18, 2008)

question:

I'm new and trying to learn this.

I've tried two packing methods, the one where you do 3 stages and progressive tamp harder, and the frank method.

I have trouble keeping my pipe lit with both methods. the 3 stage method I can't even keep it lit more than a couple puffs, and with the frank method I can keep it lit until I burn thru the top layer, and then the bottom 3/4 of a bowl I have to constantly relight.

any tips?

am I packing too softly?

any advice would be greatly appreciated!


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## Dylan Cerling (Dec 13, 2008)

MMA_Alex said:


> question:
> 
> I'm new and trying to learn this.
> 
> ...


I'm not an expert, but with the 3 stage method you might be tamping too hard. I've found that if I just barely press down with my tamper my pipe stays lit, for the most part.


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## Requiem (Dec 6, 2008)

I usually fill the pipe with a pipe cleaner placed in the bowl, all the way through the stem (if having trouble doing it, just insert the pipe cleaner through the shank and place the stem after filling the pipe). Works great!


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## pro2625 (Jun 25, 2008)

Requiem said:


> I usually fill the pipe with a pipe cleaner placed in the bowl, all the way through the stem (if having trouble doing it, just insert the pipe cleaner through the shank and place the stem after filling the pipe). Works great!


Thats a good tip....Im going to have to try this out Thanks


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## SmokinJohnny (Jan 21, 2009)

Hendu3270 said:


> Alright Johnny, Let's here the simple fix. :smile: I now have a pipe that the hole is not all the way to the bottom of my bowl.


Sorry I missed your post. I haven't monitored this thread. This is off a link. I tried this and it works pretty well. Since sugar is often used in tobacco casing, I can't see the honey being a problem. I used a pipe nail to aid in trowling out the mix. For me, it caked over with carbon after a few bowls and pipe sweetner hasn't disolved it.



> Fixing an Improperly Drilled Airway
> 
> If you've bought more than a few pipes in your pipe smoking life then you've probably seen a mis-drilled pipe bowl. The most common type of mis-drilling is where the airway into the bottom of the bowl is higher than the actual bowl bottom. Sometimes this is slight and sometimes severe. Typically this can been seen on less expensive pipes of all makes. The problem with this is that it usually leads to a wet smoking pipe that gurgles and rarely burn the tobacco all the way to the bottom. Fortunately there is an fast and easy way to fix this problem and best of all it cost nothing but time. Here is the fix:
> 
> First take some cool, completely burned pipe ash and with the back end of a spoon crush the ash to a fine powder. Next take about a 1/2 teaspoon of honey and begin to mix in the powdered pipe ash until the mix has a slightly grainy texture. Now take a pipe cleaner and insert it into the bowl's airway until it barely peeks into the bowl. This will keep the mix from blocking the airway. Put the pipe in a stable pipe stand and begin to drizzle the ash mix into the bowl bottom. Be very careful not to get any of the mix on the pipe itself. Start slowing with just a little bit. Allow the mix to settle and level out. Should more be needed add it sparingly a little at time until the mixture becomes flush with the bottom of the airway hole. Set the pipe aside for a day or two to allow the mix to harden. Finally load the pipe halfway and smoke the bowl all the way to the bottom. Tamp while smoking but do not dump the pipe ash when you are finished. Allow the ash and bowl to cool before removing the ash. This and the next few bowls will cure and harden the ash mix. You'll then have a bowl that will smoke dry as it should. Happy Smoking!


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## jfox520 (May 22, 2008)

I am going to try smoking a pipe but I am not sure what tobacco to try. I smoke cigars and my taste run medium to full flavor cigars. Do you have any suggestions.


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## dogsplayinpoker (Jan 23, 2007)

I would suggest a virginia/perique blend like Telegraph Hill, Escudo or even Bullseye Flake. You get a nice spicy taste from these and it would most likely suit a cigar smoker well. Key Largo is a nice blend that has some cigar leaf in it and you may find this to your liking as well. Luxury Navy Flake is another blend that I might suggest, it gives a sweet taste without the cloying coating of ones mouth that an aromatic tobacco produces.
Just some of my favorites, I am sure there will be many suggestions from the other FOGs.:thumb:


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

jfox520 said:


> I am going to try smoking a pipe but I am not sure what tobacco to try. I smoke cigars and my taste run medium to full flavor cigars. Do you have any suggestions.


Easy start - a corncob pipe and some Carter Hall or Prince Alberts. Not glamorous, just good.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

dogsplayinpoker said:


> ...............without the cloying coating of ones mouth that an aromatic tobacco produces.


Could you elaborate on what exactly you mean when you say "cloying coating"? I've recently started smoking pipes (been smoking cigars for a couple of years) and I've only smoked aromatics in my pipes thus far. I'm just curious if it's something I've experienced and didn't know it.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

what are some options, or ways to fix a loose stem? or air leaking between shank and stem


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## IrishCamel81 (Jan 26, 2009)

My IK Meerschaum has been having a tough draw lately. I looked in the stem and notice same flaking coming down from the top. It wont come out with a cleaner so I am pretty sure it is not tobacco but likely part of the stem. There is nearly a 50% blockage of the airway, what can I do to fix this?


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

EvoFX said:


> what are some options, or ways to fix a loose stem? or air leaking between shank and stem


I rub the tenon (?) down with candle wax. Is it loose before you smoke it or after. Sometimes the wood can dry out and that causes this problem. Smoking it will remedy that. Also a pipe cleaner soaked in alcohol left in the shank will work too.



IrishCamel81 said:


> My IK Meerschaum has been having a tough draw lately. I looked in the stem and notice same flaking coming down from the top. It wont come out with a cleaner so I am pretty sure it is not tobacco but likely part of the stem. There is nearly a 50% blockage of the airway, what can I do to fix this?


Have you tried a bristle pipe cleaner. If that does't work, maybe a piece of wire. Look around the house and see what you've got.


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## dogsplayinpoker (Jan 23, 2007)

Hendu3270 said:


> Could you elaborate on what exactly you mean when you say "cloying coating"? I've recently started smoking pipes (been smoking cigars for a couple of years) and I've only smoked aromatics in my pipes thus far. I'm just curious if it's something I've experienced and didn't know it.


The lining of my mouth often feels like it is coated, like a medicated feeling especially on the cheek, when I smoke most aromatics. I don't get this from other types of tobaccos.
It is not an extreme sensation just don't like it at all.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Mad Hatter said:


> ...Sometimes the wood can dry out and that causes this problem. Smoking it will remedy that. Also a pipe cleaner soaked in alcohol left in the shank will work too.


I've have good luck with hot beeswax rubbed on one or two pipe tenons; all the others that go loose have tightened right up after a smoke or two. I have heard about painting a coat of clear nailpolish on a tenon but it has never come to that in my world.

Did you ever actually do the "alcohol in the shank" thingie?


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Mister Moo said:


> I've have good luck with hot beeswax rubbed on one or two pipe tenons; all the others that go loose have tightened right up after a smoke or two. I have heard about painting a coat of clear nailpolish on a tenon but it has never come to that in my world.
> 
> Did you ever actually do the "alcohol in the shank" thingie?


Yeah, it was something I learned from doing this to estate pipes. I figured an alcohol soaked cleaner would have the same effect on a dirty shank as the salt/alcohol treatment has on the bowl. I also started doing it to my pipes regularly, about every third smoke, to keep them clean and to sweeten them. Some shanks will get a little too tight from doing this and I use wax to cure that too, but usually that isn't a problem.


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## Chiefessii (Mar 3, 2009)

I recently purchased a La Rocca pipe which I am having considerable difficulty with. My question doesn't have so much to do with knowledge of the brand, but rather whether it is possible for a pipe to have been as poorly constructed as the one I bought.

I own only two pipes, a Molina I got for about $40 and a La Rocca for $45. Both are bent billiards. I cannot for the life of me figure out why I can't get the La Rocca to stay lit. At first I chalked it up to me simply needing more experience, but I sincerely doubt that's the problem after having smoked 20+ bowls of various tobacco in my Molina with almost always less than 5 relights throughout each bowl. However, smoking (or attempting to) about the same number of bowls in my La Rocca has only proven to be a disaster. I have been unable to keep the pipe lit for more than 30 seconds at a time. The weirdest part is that the pipe doesn't seem to smoke wet, which I have been told is typically the problem with poorly constructed pipes. There is never any pipe gurgle nor do I ever get tongue bite. Although I do not believe that I am necessarily good at smoking pipes, I must be doing something right, since just today I smoked a full bowl of Three Star out of my Molina using only 3 relights.

I have experimented with different types of tobacco, and I have been using the exact same tobaccos, packing method, and smoking method for both my Molina and La Rocca. Is it possible that I just happened to purchase a La Rocca with horrid construction? Considerable research has only told me that La Roccas might be seconds, but I have been unable to verify that.

Thanks for any info


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## BigKev77 (Feb 16, 2008)

I am no expert just a newb of a year or so and cannot give you a great answer on this but....

After my first few months of smoking I had finally gotten where I could smoke the three pipes that I had. I decided to get a better quality pipe since my technique had inmproved. I bought a Boswell after reading the numerous good reviews. When it came I thought I had the worst pipe ever made. I thought the drilling must be off. I was very frustrated and posted here about the problem. I recieved many tips on packing and numerous other things. The best tip I got was "_all pipes are different. You have to learn what the pipe wants to get a good smoke_." I stuck with it trying different packing methods and speed of smoking. Finally i got the swing of it and it is now a great smoking pipe and I will always recomend someone buy a Boswell. Other guys here will give you a better Idea than I can about the drilling and airflow so listen to what they have to say and if there are no drilling issues just stick with it. There may be a trick to your pipe you will happen upon you and it will be a great smoker.

Good Luck


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## drastic_quench (Sep 12, 2008)

Chiefessii, what's it sound like when you blow air through the pipe when empty? Just a normal air-through-a-straw sound, or does it whistle like the flow's constricted?


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## Chiefessii (Mar 3, 2009)

Thanks for the tips BigKev. I will certainly continue to experiment with it and see if I can possibly get it to work another way.

There is no odd sound coming from it. The airflow is not as good as my Molina, but because these are the only two pipes I own I do not have a good basis for comparison. I have cleaned the pipe with pipe cleaners and also with pipe sweetener and rubbing alcohol. It is as clean as possible and yet still does not smoke well.

I greatly appreciate the help


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Chiefessii said:


> Thanks for the tips BigKev. I will certainly continue to experiment with it and see if I can possibly get it to work another way.
> 
> There is no odd sound coming from it. The airflow is not as good as my Molina, but because these are the only two pipes I own I do not have a good basis for comparison. I have cleaned the pipe with pipe cleaners and also with pipe sweetener and rubbing alcohol. It is as clean as possible and yet still does not smoke well.
> 
> I greatly appreciate the help


It sounds like an airflow problem to me. A lot of pipes that have otherwise decent airflow will have a restriction or tightening in the button of the stem or sometimes in the bend in the stem. What you can do to check that is take the stem off and feed a pipe cleaner through it from one end and then from the other to see if the airway is tighter somewhere along the stem.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Question about the rubber pipe bits. Is the purpose of these simply to protect the mouthpiece from being scratched? I have a few scratches on my pipes and I'm sure that over time they'll build up even more but I don't see that as problem for me.

It seems to me that it's kind of like putting seat covers or floor mats in your vehicle....to protect it from day to day use and keep up the resale value.

Do they enhance the experience any?


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## Dedalus (Dec 10, 2008)

They also make the pipe easier to clench. I bought one for 99 cents in my last order and just tried it out the other day. It's really comfortable, but I don't necessarily like the aesthetic of it, so I'll probably leave it off...but I'm more of a hold the pipe in my hand rather than in my teeth kind of guy. If you do hold it it your teeth quite a bit, I would highly recommend it.


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## Chiefessii (Mar 3, 2009)

Turns out that the airway in the pipe is the problem. The bottom of the airway hole is significantly higher than the bowl bottom. I will be using the honey and ash method to attempt to fix it.

Thanks to everyone who helped


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Chiefessii said:


> Turns out that the airway in the pipe is the problem. The bottom of the airway hole is significantly higher than the bowl bottom. I will be using the honey and ash method to attempt to fix it.
> 
> Thanks to everyone who helped


Glad you got that figured out. Hopefully it'll smoke much better for you once its corrected.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Dedalus said:


> They also make the pipe easier to clench. I bought one for 99 cents in my last order and just tried it out the other day. It's really comfortable, but I don't necessarily like the aesthetic of it, so I'll probably leave it off...but I'm more of a hold the pipe in my hand rather than in my teeth kind of guy. If you do hold it it your teeth quite a bit, I would highly recommend it.


My wife saw me posting about the rubber bits a couple of days ago and when she was out grocery shopping she stopped by the baccy shop and picked a couple up for me. I put one on the next pipe in my rotation last night and I LOVE IT!! It makes the pipe soooo much easier to leave in your mouth. I think I'll be putting one on each of my pipes.


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## Dedalus (Dec 10, 2008)

Hendu3270 said:


> My wife saw me posting about the rubber bits a couple of days ago and when she was out grocery shopping she stopped by the baccy shop and picked a couple up for me. I put one on the next pipe in my rotation last night and I LOVE IT!! It makes the pipe soooo much easier to leave in your mouth. I think I'll be putting one on each of my pipes.


Right on. If you like to hold the pipe in your mouth they're aces. Glad you found something to make the pipe even more enjoyable.


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## 8ball (Feb 17, 2006)

I have a question in regards to aromatic tobacco.

I did some research before I decided to try the pipe, and it seems like most people started off with aromatics. Problem is, I cannot really taste anything. On the exhale, I can only taste a very mild sweet flavor, but really mile. I have tried Captain black (white label), and some bulk black cavendish and vanilla. I was wondering if this is a characteristic of aromatics or if I am doing something wrong? I am about a once to twice a week cigar smoker, so I think I am really trying to find something that has a little bit more flavor to it. Can I expect a difference with an English or Virgina blend?

Thanks!


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## dogsplayinpoker (Jan 23, 2007)

8ball917 said:


> I have a question in regards to aromatic tobacco.
> 
> I did some research before I decided to try the pipe, and it seems like most people started off with aromatics. Problem is, I cannot really taste anything. On the exhale, I can only taste a very mild sweet flavor, but really mile. I have tried Captain black (white label), and some bulk black cavendish and vanilla. I was wondering if this is a characteristic of aromatics or if I am doing something wrong? I am about a once to twice a week cigar smoker, so I think I am really trying to find something that has a little bit more flavor to it. Can I expect a difference with an English or Virgina blend?
> 
> Thanks!


I don't taste much with aromatics either and I have been smoking a while. You will definitely experience taste with an Engllish, probably more than a virginia blend. Both will likely give you more of what you are looking for. Just remember to smoke slowly. This will help you pick up some flavors instead of just hot smoke.


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## mike t (Oct 21, 2008)

Mad Hatter said:


> It sounds like an airflow problem to me. A lot of pipes that have otherwise decent airflow will have a restriction or tightening in the button of the stem or sometimes in the bend in the stem. What you can do to check that is take the stem off and feed a pipe cleaner through it from one end and then from the other to see if the airway is tighter somewhere along the stem.


my pete 314 had an airflow problem so i, and you dont have to do this...took a toothpick to the shank like you would a pipe cleaner you would not believe the hard crap that comes out of those things but go gently or the toothpick will snap causing more problems but it clears the shank of obstructions very very well mike


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

dogsplayinpoker said:


> I don't taste much with aromatics either and I have been smoking a while. You will definitely experience taste with an Engllish, probably more than a virginia blend. Both will likely give you more of what you are looking for. Just remember to smoke slowly. This will help you pick up some flavors instead of just hot smoke.


I second that and I always say newbies should start with english, balkan or VA/latakia blends because you can taste the latakia if you can't taste anything else


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## 8ball (Feb 17, 2006)

Mad Hatter said:


> I second that and I always say newbies should start with english, balkan or VA/latakia blends because you can taste the latakia if you can't taste anything else


Thanks for the tips guys. I've also noticed that people say that over time, I will pick up the flavors more and more. I'm making a trip to one of the local stores tomorrow, to try some English and VA blends.


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## jfserama (Mar 26, 2009)

Would Frog Morton be a good blend for a newbie? Or should I try some other non-aro blends first? (I've only smoked a couple aro blends before)


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## DeadFrog (Mar 19, 2009)

Being fairly new to pipe smoking myself, a seasoned pipe smoker recommended Frog Morton to me as I had only smoked aromatics before. I love it! It's by far the best tobacco I've smoked yet. Keep in mind that my experience is quite limited, but I do enjoy FM. I haven't bought any other tobaccos lately and have put the aromatics down for now. I just really like the FM. I'll probably try the other FM blends after I go through the tin I'm on now.


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## jfserama (Mar 26, 2009)

DeadFrog said:


> Being fairly new to pipe smoking myself, a seasoned pipe smoker recommended Frog Morton to me as I had only smoked aromatics before. I love it! It's by far the best tobacco I've smoked yet. Keep in mind that my experience is quite limited, but I do enjoy FM. I haven't bought any other tobaccos lately and have put the aromatics down for now. I just really like the FM. I'll probably try the other FM blends after I go through the tin I'm on now.


Alright, I think I'll get a tin. Is it a strong tobacco? I heard that it doesn't bite much, would you agree?


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

jfserama said:


> Would Frog Morton be a good blend for a newbie? Or should I try some other non-aro blends first? (I've only smoked a couple aro blends before)


The Frog series would be good for you. It smokes easily and I don't remember getting tongue bite when I was smoking it. Pipesandcigars used to have the 4 tin set for a discounted price. Actually the original Frog was my least favorite of the set.


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## DeadFrog (Mar 19, 2009)

jfserama said:


> Alright, I think I'll get a tin. Is it a strong tobacco? I heard that it doesn't bite much, would you agree?


It's not strong at all, I find it quite mellow. I've experienced no tongue bite at all smoking it. :thumb:

I really want to try the other FM blends, but at $30 a tin up here the "master of finances" aka wife really limits my purchases! lol


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## jfserama (Mar 26, 2009)

I looked at the price of some FM tins at me local B&M, and $25 a tin is a little too much for me... Are there any tobaccos similar to FM but for a lot less - around $12 or less?


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

jfserama said:


> I looked at the price of some FM tins at me local B&M, and $25 a tin is a little too much for me... Are there any tobaccos similar to FM but for a lot less - around $12 or less?


Did you look at 50 or 100g tins? Here's the 4 tin set that I mentioned $29.99

http://pipesandcigars.com/frwecosa.html


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## jfserama (Mar 26, 2009)

Mad Hatter said:


> Did you look at 50 or 100g tins?http://pipesandcigars.com/frwecosa.html


ohhhh... I think It might have been the 100g tin :banghead:

I'll have to go back and see what the price is for a 50g


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## jfserama (Mar 26, 2009)

Went back today and got a 50g tin for around $10. I got the just the plain FM. Not too fond of the smell, but you really can't judge a tobacco based on smell.

I'll light it up sometime this weekend and see what I think.


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## jfserama (Mar 26, 2009)

Had a few bowls of FM over the weekend and really enjoyed it. It's the best pipe tobacco I've had so far. Thanks for the recommendation guys!

(Sorry about the triple posting!) :sorry:


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## DeadFrog (Mar 19, 2009)

jfserama said:


> Had a few bowls of FM over the weekend and really enjoyed it. It's the best pipe tobacco I've had so far. Thanks for the recommendation guys!
> 
> (Sorry about the triple posting!) :sorry:


Glad you liked it. :thumb: I'm trying to decide what FM blend to try next. Decisions, decisions!


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## sepia5 (Feb 14, 2006)

I'm just wondering if anyone can speak to whether a stem can be darkened once it has faded to that almost brown color that some stems seem to turn as the pipe ages and wears. I presume the answer is no, but didn't know if anyone had some experience with this. I didn't think a normal stem polish would do the trick, but I don't know what else could be done.


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## BigKev77 (Feb 16, 2008)

You bet it can. A lot of the guys here refurb their old pipes themselves. I take mine to my local BM and they do it for $5. Stem looks as good as new after a good polishing. There are a lot of guys here that do their own and they could be better help. Also search the topic. I have read a number of posts here on this subject. I have been wanting to learn to do it myself so I will search it too.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

There's several ways to remove the oxidation; boiling water, sanding, Mr Clean Magic eraser, aluminum polish, but it all takes some elbow grease and the button area is a PITA


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

sepia5 said:


> I'm just wondering if anyone can speak to whether a stem can be darkened once it has faded to that almost brown color that some stems seem to turn as the pipe ages and wears. I presume the answer is no, but didn't know if anyone had some experience with this. I didn't think a normal stem polish would do the trick, but I don't know what else could be done.






























See the thread titled "Estate Pipes Reclaimed" for more before/after fotos.

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/v...ipes-reclaimed-diamonds-coal.html#post1982632

Vulcanite, a common stem material, will oxidize and turn from black to brown over time. It is easily cleaned with some time and care. The sulfur used to make vulcanite announces itself during cleaning; often best your wife or loved one is not around during scrubbing - they make faces and doubt deeply the value of a pipe when they smell the smell.

Lots of tricks to get the mess off that vary according to the seriousness of the oxidizing and the appearance of nomenclature on the stem (imprints, etc.). Light stuff can be removed easily with an electric toothbrush and some baking soda or toothpaste; a soak in bleach plus some post-soak rubbing works well if the stem isn't imprinted. Lots of people swear by Magic Eraser but, having tried it several times I find the stuff wears me out. For most nasty stems I lean to sequential wet sanding with polishing papers # 4000, 8000 and 12,000.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Of course Sepia if you're listing it on Ebay these tricks don't apply. If that was the case you could simply change the contrast and brightness on the photo before posting and vwahlah! That dirty old oxidized pipe is suddenly in "pristine" condition with a nice shiney black stem



Ain't this pipe cool?


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## sepia5 (Feb 14, 2006)

Mad Hatter said:


> Of course Sepia if you're listing it on Ebay these tricks don't apply. If that was the case you could simply change the contrast and brightness on the photo before posting and vwahlah! That dirty old oxidized pipe is suddenly in "pristine" condition with a nice shiney black stem
> 
> Ain't this pipe cool?


Haha. Actually, it is quite the opposite. I'm looking to buy a pipe on eBay that I really want but clearly needs some work. Thanks so much for all the info and advice, guys.


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## cp478 (Oct 23, 2008)

i have started to really enjoy dunhills royal yacht and because it is now hard to find and i am not going to pay ebay prices, i was wondering if someone could recommend something similar.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

I know that you can "restore" a dried out cigar, the trick is to add humidity slowly over time so as to not shock the cigar, in which case it may burst. 

Is this the same for pipe tobacco (I know it won't burst)? If so, what's the best method of humidification, if I keep my tobacco in a canning jar?


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## BigKev77 (Feb 16, 2008)

commonsenseman said:


> I know that you can "restore" a dried out cigar, the trick is to add humidity slowly over time so as to not shock the cigar, in which case it may burst.
> 
> Is this the same for pipe tobacco (I know it won't burst)? If so, what's the best method of humidification, if I keep my tobacco in a canning jar?


http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/general-pipe-forum/248352-rehydrating-tobac.html


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

bigkev77 said:


> http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/general-pipe-forum/248352-rehydrating-tobac.html


Thanks! There are some great ideas in there!


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

I am reading a bunch on the pitfalls we can encounter with our pipes.
One of the most important being the breaking in period of a new pipe.
Possible bad things happening are:

- Overheating 

- Through Burn 

- Breaking a Bowl

As well as many others.

OK. But what do all these things look like?
How do we know if we have in fact damaged our pipes?

I dont think I have hurt my Stannie but as I am reading up in preparation for breaking in my new baby, I am trying to figure out what to do 'IF' it happens.

But how can I tell if it has?
How do you notice it?
What does it look like?

What makes it more difficult is when there is considerable cake inside covering up the inside of the bowl itself.

I searched the forum and could not find this item being discussed like this.

How do we notice problems??


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

David M* said:


> ...I searched the forum and could not find this item being discussed like this.
> 
> How do we notice problems??


My non-expert take. A burnout is like por nography. You know it when you see it. A cheap way to learn all about what burnouts look like is to go to a pipe show with an LED flashlight. Find the biggest basket of $5.00 used pipes you can and start examining the insides of the bowls. (You won't see much on the net in the way of photos because it's really hard to get a good pic of the inside of a chamber.) Typical burnouts are easy to spot: they can be uncaked, charred spots of briar and/or grossly enlarged, often oval shaped, airholes. Some non-pipe-forum-don't-pay-attention-weenies manage to smoke a pipe cakeless until the entire chamber is grossly charred and enlarged; some smoke them until the walls are obviously thinned out to the point of ruination. Others have cake, usually from aromatics, that is very thick and barely attached to the pipe walls - crumbly and irregular looking. Look in the pipe show baskets - they're all there.

I have managed to heat up some of my pipes where they would have glowed red in the dark and managed not to ruin one. I'd guess, never having actually burned out a pipe (yet), it takes more than incidental abuse to ruin one. I've read (but never done it myself) that leaving flakes of unburned tobak on pipe walls creates spots where burnouts occur. Having salvaged more than a few estate pipe with unburned chunks of tobacco glued to pipe walls (and buried in overly thick, crumbly not-good-cake) I have yet to find a burned out pipe wall hidden beneath the gunk. I know they're out there - I've just dodged the ones that looked like they had obvious problems. Too much cake - way more than dime-thickness - can create an expansion differential between the bowl interior and exterior sufficient to split a pipe. I've seen split pipes with too-thick cake but I've also seen old guys with pipes that have cake way, way, way too thick that they've been smoking for decades. They get cake to a shape and thickness that makes for a very cool pipe BUT they also smoke very slowly, discouraging the rapid expansion that can split a bowl.

Follow the sound advice in the forum(s). Start slow on new or recently-reamed uncaked briar. As you build a thin layer of cake your pipe will gradually smoke cooler and drier. It's obvious - just not fast. The walls and airhole opening will be protected and, as caretaker for a briar that could last for generations, you will be a satisfied participant in the craft of pipe smoking.

Voila!


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

Le Big Round Of Applause!!!!!

Thanks.

Good explanation on the details of what to look for.
I could actually see myself going to a Pipe Show so I may just do that.

There must be pictures out there. There must, there must!

Maybe we should sacrifice a Pipe. Yah. You heard me. Sacrifice a pipe.
If we were to do that (and take gory pictures of the destruction) what would the name of the Pipe God be to whom we'd make the sacrifice to?



Mister Moo said:


> My non-expert take. A burnout is like por nography. You know it when you see it. A cheap way to learn all about what burnouts look like is to go to a pipe show with an LED flashlight. Find the biggest basket of $5.00 used pipes you can and start examining the insides of the bowls. (You won't see much on the net in the way of photos because it's really hard to get a good pic of the inside of a chamber.) Typical burnouts are easy to spot: they can be uncaked, charred spots of briar and/or grossly enlarged, often oval shaped, airholes. Some non-pipe-forum-don't-pay-attention-weenies manage to smoke a pipe cakeless until the entire chamber is grossly charred and enlarged; some smoke them until the walls are obviously thinned out to the point of ruination. Others have cake, usually from aromatics, that is very thick and barely attached to the pipe walls - crumbly and irregular looking. Look in the pipe show baskets - they're all there.
> 
> I have managed to heat up some of my pipes where they would have glowed red in the dark and managed not to ruin one. I'd guess, never having actually burned out a pipe (yet), it takes more than incidental abuse to ruin one. I've read (but never done it myself) that leaving flakes of unburned tobak on pipe walls creates spots where burnouts occur. Having salvaged more than a few estate pipe with unburned chunks of tobacco glued to pipe walls (and buried in overly thick, crumbly not-good-cake) I have yet to find a burned out pipe wall hidden beneath the gunk. I know they're out there - I've just dodged the ones that looked like they had obvious problems. Too much cake - way more than dime-thickness - can create an expansion differential between the bowl interior and exterior sufficient to split a pipe. I've seen split pipes with too-thick cake but I've also seen old guys with pipes that have cake way, way, way too thick that they've been smoking for decades. They get cake to a shape and thickness that makes for a very cool pipe BUT they also smoke very slowly, discouraging the rapid expansion that can split a bowl.
> 
> ...


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

David M* said:


> Thanks. Maybe we should sacrifice a Pipe.


You're welcome. You caught me at a moment of lucidity. I don't if what I said was actually right, but it sounded right. :tu A sacrificial burnout pipe is a good idea, David. You about have to saw one in half to get a clean view of the problem suitable for a photo (unless you're Tzaddi, who probably has X-ray pipe cameras). If anyone has actually sectioned and photo'd a basketcase I haven't seen it.

A respected professionals answer to your question, below, adds bad lighting practice as common; he also considered burnouts from flaws inherent in the briar. Smart pipe guy and master pipemaker Mark Tinsky has written:

_*
"... A pipe burnout occurs when the inner bowl of the briar burns along with the tobacco. After charring and making ugly black cracks inside the bowl it can actually burn through to the outer wall of the pipe. Most smokers will generally quit smoking the pipe before that happens; though some persist until you can put your fingers through the holes in the bowl...

...Burnout's can occur for a variety of reasons or combinations of reasons. The most common cause of burnout is lighter abuse. When a pipe is new and relatively unsmoked it is vulnerable. The interior walls of the pipe are literally naked. Intense flame as produced by a lighter being sucked down the bare wall of a pipe will certainly cause it to char and crack. Unless immediately fixed will certainly lead the pipe to burnout. A suggestion to avoid this would be to use matches until the pipe develops a carbon cake. Don't try to ignite the last flake of tobacco with your lighter. Tobacco is cheaper than a pipe and a little can be sacrificed in order to preserve it. My second suggestion is to never use a lighter at all even after a pipe is broken in. As this is impractical for a lot of people I would suggest using a lighter with care.

Sometimes a pipe will burnout in the first or second smoke. This can be caused by an unseen flaw lurking between the inner and outer wall of the pipe. A flaw is not made of wood but rather dirt or other impurities where the burl grew. The flaw is a definite weak spot ready to give way at the first hint of heat. For this reason most companies warrantee their pipes for a certain length of time. Usually if a pipe is going to fail due to material defect it will generally happen quickly. Most pipe companies only guarantee their pipes for 90 days for this reason.

Burnout that occurs over a period of time is generally due to hot smoking. Hot, or fast puffers are going to put a lot more strain on their pipes than those who puff coolly and sedately. Given enough time and heat the inner bowl walls will weaken and begin to char and crack. This is not the fault of the pipe; its only a piece of wood and is subject to the forces of nature. If you re a hot smoker try to stay with thicker bowl wall as this will serve to delay the degradation of the briar.

How often does burnout occur? I've never kept track of how many I've made and how many have been returned to give an exact answer. I'd quess that 2% might be a reasonable conjecture. Pipes that are taken care of cleaned and rotated; reamed when necessary can last a lifetime. Briar is tough stuff; though its not indestructible.

Mark Tinsky"*_


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

I have a tanblast Preben Holm second freehand that was developing a burnout. It has a faint black line along a series of sandpits on the outside of the bowl about a half an inch long. While smoking if I covered the top of the bowl with my hand and blew into the mouthpiece smoke would come out the affected area. The wood didn't seem to be charred/burned on the inside. I think the pits must have been scarcely below the surface when the first owner bought it. I patched it with putty and its now happily growing cake  I imagine many burnouts are encouraged by similar defects in the briar. I also have a Stanwell that always gets hot in one spot during smoking. This particular spot also absorbs all the oil I apply to it and will not hold a shine.

Moo : I have seen a couple of burnout pipes on another forum that were sawed in half and photo'ed. I'll see if I can find one.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Here ya go, more info, no photo

The Causes of Burnout

Elliott Nachwalter Pipestudio - to order


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> _*Most smokers will generally quit smoking the pipe before that happens; though some persist until you can put your fingers through the holes in the bowl...
> *_


Thats some sick stuff.
Sticking your fingers thru a hole in the bowl of your pipe and then lighting the contents of the bowl which include your fingers. Sick Sick Sick Stuff.
Sounds inquisition-like :lol: **Edit** - This little laughing smiley is pretty annoying. We need a mean looking Clint Eastwood Smiley holding a 44 Magnum shooting other smileys.



Mad Hatter said:


> Here ya go, more info, no photo
> The Causes of Burnout


Essentially the same article as what Moo posted but the Hatter link has the full story and there is a very very good joke in there that some guys played on another that includes a Pipe, a Blowtorch and a UPS Delivery Guy. You guys should read it!

***

On a more serious note, I like the idea of using matches. I am looking at this new pipe and it seems so naked and so fragile. It likely isn't and its made well but all you can think about when looking at him is..."Take care of this baby" and thats all you want to do.

From earlier in the thread.
Coating the inside of the bowl with a bit of water is a little trick people use and that also feels like an easy thing to do to assist in breaking the pipe in.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

David M* said:


> Essentially the same article as what Moo posted but the Hatter link has the full story and there is a very very good joke in there that some guys played on another that includes a Pipe, a Blowtorch and a UPS Delivery Guy. You guys should read it!


What can I say....... Moo searches faster than me :dunno:


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

Mad Hatter said:


> What can I say....... Moo searches faster than me :dunno:


No Dear Hatter- no need for that.

It was more a general informational note to others looking at the same info.

Both your searches are spectacular.
Both you and Moo are aces in my book.
(kinda corny sorry - Group Hug??)


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

David M* said:


> Essentially the same article as what Moo posted ...
> 
> ...but the Hatter link has ... a very very good joke in there that some guys played...


The link was in my post which came BEFORE (slow) Madhatters post. Read harder.

I am surprised to see (slow) Madhatter, my rock and my anchor for content-quality posting, cluttering with extraneous pipe-burnout prank reports. I intentionally deleted that paragraph from my post in order to conform to the higher standard M'atter sets. (The prank is included in the copy of the link that I POSTED FIRST, however.)

Ho hum... the world changes every day. You're slowing down, kid. Clutter. Slow on the draw. Spring fever, maybe.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Hey you know how it is, reading posts, posting posts, diggin' for info, smoking my pipe, looking for long-lost members, trying to get all the low-down from Cold Case Files, making my next glass of tea and the whole time pushing my dog off the chair arm to answer the telephone................ I live in a multi-taskers universe here.


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> "Read harder!!!!"


Feels very whip-action slashing Dominatrix-like.

"YES SIR!"


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

> Hey you know how it is... ...making my next glass of tea and the whole time pushing my dog off the chair arm...


 :yawn:



David M* said:


> Feels very... dominatrix..."YES SIR!"


Now we're getting somewhere.:whip:


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Ok I've got a question here. I just bought a pipe on ebay for $6.50 combined price, and when I got it the bit has a huge chunk missing, there's a crack in the bowl, laquer peeling off, and the cake sucks....looks like someone smoked a lot of crappy aromatics through it. I dunno if I should give them negative feedback and throw it away, or if this "thing' is salvagable. 

I'm a little wary of giving negative feedback, cause I know they'll be sure to return the favor. I guess $6.50 isn't too bad of a loss. But the least they could have done is put this stuff in the description for me. 

Any advice?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

A battered stem can be replaced or possibly repaired with a slip-on softy bit, depending on how bad it is. A cracked bowl usually means it's trash, but I'd have to see it for my own determination. 

Did the eBay pics show a crack or were there any pics at all? 

Do you have a saved link to the eBay auction? 

Any pics of it right now?


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

commonsenseman said:


> there's a crack in the bowl


If possible, could you post a picture of the crack!

Edit:
Hears Mr. Moo's hallowed words...READ HARDER!!!!...battering his brain as he finishes reading Sturg's post.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

DSturg369 said:


> A battered stem can be replaced or possibly repaired with a slip-on softy bit, depending on how bad it is. A cracked bowl usually means it's trash, but I'd have to see it for my own determination.
> 
> Did the eBay pics show a crack or were there any pics at all?
> 
> ...


The ebay listing only had one picture of the good side of it. And the description just said "The pipe is in great condition."





I apologize for my previous description, the crack is higher up from the bowl, and I don't think it will affect performance. It looks like someone tried to glue it, pretty poorly though.



Heres the link to the listing: 
ROGERS CAPRI ALGERIAN BRIAR PIPE - eBay (item 320366473340 end time May-07-09 13:27:22 PDT)


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## Mr Mojo Risin (May 26, 2007)

I would give negative feedback for sure, if the seller wasn't willing to refund my money. They lied about the item. And sellers usually give feedback first


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## freemansrus (May 16, 2009)

what will happen if i smoke a filter pipe without a filter/filter replacement tube thingy in it? will it damage the pipe? :dunno:
thanks
joe


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

Thats a pretty big lie.
He described the pipe in complete and total false terms.
His description is the only thing that led you to buy the pipe.
Had he been honest, I dont think you would be in this position right now.
All of that put together means you should SKEWER him.

I would also tend to shy away from negative feedback until absolutely needed. Try and deal with him one on one first. Email him, demand clarification, perhaps even demand your money back (although $6.50) aint much, its the principle of it.

He lied though. Fully and completely and had he not, you would have been able to make an informed decision. From that perspective alone you should definitely not feel bad whatsoever regarding any steps you choose to take to try and resolve the matter.

Thanks for posting the pics.
I wanna see them cracks.


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## brianwalden (Mar 18, 2009)

freemansrus said:


> what will happen if i smoke a filter pipe without a filter/filter replacement tube thingy in it? will it damage the pipe? :dunno:
> thanks
> joe


Well, Savinelli says you should never smoke their filter pipes without either a filter or the adapter that makes the opening the same size as a non-filter pipe. But in practice I know that many people don't use either. I don't think it will hurt your pipe. At worst it smoke differently because of the wider opening in the stem and it makes it easier for ash to fly up into you mouth.

I wouldn't worry about it, but if I remember correctly I think Cup o Joes sells both 6mm and 9mm adapters in the filter section of their site if you'd like to get those. I used to smoke my filter pipes without filters but now I've taken a liking to the balsa ones and those.


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## plexiprs (Nov 18, 2005)

freemansrus said:


> what will happen if i smoke a filter pipe without a filter/filter replacement tube thingy in it? will it damage the pipe? :dunno:
> thanks
> joe


Better flow. No damage unless the extra flow causes you to really overheat the pipe. If you have been using the balsa type filters you may get more moisture in the smoke as the balsa isn't there to wick up the wet. Slow down, be aware of the pipe heating and enjoy!! :humble:


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## freemansrus (May 16, 2009)

cheers guys - i intend to use filters soon - but the pipe arrived today and it was too late to go to town to pick up 9mm filters (i've only got 6mm) and was wondering what to do because i'm excited to spark it up!

thanks for your knowledge! p


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Mr Mojo Risin said:


> I would give negative feedback for sure, if the seller wasn't willing to refund my money. They lied about the item. And sellers usually give feedback first





David M* said:


> Thats a pretty big lie.
> He described the pipe in complete and total false terms.
> His description is the only thing that led you to buy the pipe.
> Had he been honest, I dont think you would be in this position right now.
> ...


Yeah for me it's really the principle of it, $6.50 is no big deal whatsoever. He'll take it back and refund me the $3 purchase price, but I'd have to pay shipping. So it'd be a wash anyway.

I'm thinking about biting the bullet and keeping it, even though it totally sucks.

I'm really not sure how to repair the bit, besides just sticking a softy on it.

Thanks for the advice guys.


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## RHNewfie (Mar 21, 2007)

How hot is too hot for your bowl to get? I noticed that mine will get pretty hot sometimes!!


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

What I've always heard is if it's too hot to put against your cheek for a few seconds then it's too hot.

If, throughout smoking a bowl, you find yourself having to adjust your grip on the pipe because of the heat then that's a pretty good idea it's not as cool as it should be.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

RHNewfie said:


> How hot is too hot for your bowl to get? I noticed that mine will get pretty hot sometimes!!


I'm a relative newbie here, but I'll give this one a go.

My understanding is that if it's too hot to touch to your cheek, it's too hot. It's better to puff slowly & carefully & relight if the pipe goes out, rather than puffing way too hard and too often causing the pipe to heat up. If the tobacco is too wet it could cause you too puff harder than normal in order to keep it lit. I find that I need to dry out most of my tobacco for a half hour or more before smoking. This is a recurring problem for me as well. Hopefully the pipe masters on here can help give you a definitive answer.


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## JacobMarley (Jun 10, 2009)

Hey. If you notice that guy had a negative feedback dated before your purchase. In the future make sure you take careful not of guys with feedback like this. A prior 'buyer' had given him a negative feedback on a pipe and called the pipe a 'throwaway'. That guy sounded furious too...


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

JacobMarley said:


> Hey. If you notice that guy had a negative feedback dated before your purchase. In the future make sure you take careful not of guys with feedback like this. A prior 'buyer' had given him a negative feedback on a pipe and called the pipe a 'throwaway'. That guy sounded furious too...


I hadn't noticed that before........


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## DeadFrog (Mar 19, 2009)

Ha, that's funny. I bought a pipe from the same guy. A Kaywoodie Super Grain listed as being in "great condition". Couldn't be further from the truth. Not only was the pipe nasty, there was a hole right through the stem. I actually had to cut off the bit and re-file a new one. I left him positive feedback but simply stated: "Nice pipe, cleaned up really well. Thanks." Which was true because I was able to pull a diamond from the rough with this one. Thankfully I only paid $4.50 for the pipe. The guy also tried to charge me $16 US for First Class Mail. I told him that was ridiculous and he dropped it to $6. (Actual postage was under $3).

Before:



















After:


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## Alpedhuez55 (Dec 16, 2005)

JacobMarley said:


> Hey. If you notice that guy had a negative feedback dated before your purchase. In the future make sure you take careful not of guys with feedback like this. A prior 'buyer' had given him a negative feedback on a pipe and called the pipe a 'throwaway'. That guy sounded furious too...


The guy did not deserve positive feedback. I would have given him neutral with a comment on the condition of the pipe but that he offered refund.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

DeadFrog said:


> Ha, that's funny. I bought a pipe from the same guy. A Kaywoodie Super Grain listed as being in "great condition". Couldn't be further from the truth. Not only was the pipe nasty, there was a hole right through the stem. I actually had to cut off the bit and re-file a new one. I left him positive feedback but simply stated: "Nice pipe, cleaned up really well. Thanks." Which was true because I was able to pull a diamond from the rough with this one. Thankfully I only paid $4.50 for the pipe. The guy also tried to charge me $16 US for First Class Mail. I told him that was ridiculous and he dropped it to $6. (Actual postage was under $3).





Alpedhuez55 said:


> The guy did not deserve positive feedback. I would have given him neutral with a comment on the condition of the pipe but that he offered refund.


Well, the best thing we can do now is to spread the word around so he doesn't sell anymore crappy pipes. This guy sounds like a real piece of work!


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

I just looked at the listing for the pipe you bought. I noticed that on yours as well as mine he only had one picture, & a brief description. I think I'm going to try to buy from more reputable sellers from now on, unless I find a realy deal on something.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

DeadFrog said:


> Ha, that's funny. I bought a pipe from the same guy. A Kaywoodie Super Grain listed as being in "great condition". Couldn't be further from the truth. Not only was the pipe nasty, there was a hole right through the stem. I actually had to cut off the bit and re-file a new one. I left him positive feedback but simply stated: "Nice pipe, cleaned up really well. Thanks." Which was true because I was able to pull a diamond from the rough with this one. Thankfully I only paid $4.50 for the pipe. The guy also tried to charge me $16 US for First Class Mail. I told him that was ridiculous and he dropped it to $6. (Actual postage was under $3).


You can fill bite holes like that one with superglue gel, clear or black. Just dampen a pipe cleaner and stick it down the stem before filling the hole and pull it out shortly thereafter.


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## DeadFrog (Mar 19, 2009)

Mad Hatter said:


> You can fill bite holes like that one with superglue gel, clear or black. Just dampen a pipe cleaner and stick it down the stem before filling the hole and pull it out shortly thereafter.


The top of the bit was cracked and chipped off on me so rather than mess around, I decided to shorten the stem slightly and file a new bit. Otherwise the superglue is a good trick. I've used it to fill in dents in stems before. Then light sand and polish.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

DeadFrog said:


> The top of the bit was cracked and chipped off on me so rather than mess around, I decided to shorten the stem slightly and file a new bit. Otherwise the superglue is a good trick. I've used it to fill in dents in stems before. Then light sand and polish.


Did you use the black superglue? I've never used it but I've wondered how it polishes out.

I've thought about cutting off a stem and filing a new button before but I'm leary of getting the stem too thin and burning my lip. I seem to be the only one whose ever done that but it freakin' hurts


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## louistogie (Jun 21, 2007)

I was wondering if someone can someone help me. I want to buy a nice pipe, nothing to crazy I don't want to spend that much. Just a pipe with a curve to it, maybe a few of the tools I need as well. Any tips for looking on Ebay or pointing my to a pipe sale will be much appreciated!


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

louistogie said:


> I was wondering if someone can someone help me. I want to buy a nice pipe, nothing to crazy I don't want to spend that much. Just a pipe with a curve to it, maybe a few of the tools I need as well. Any tips for looking on Ebay or pointing my to a pipe sale will be much appreciated!


You would be amazed at how well a cheap Dr. Grabow (available at many drug stores), or a corn cob pipe smokes. If I was you I'd get one of either of those and a pouch of some cheap tobacco, I really like Velvet, or Captain Black. Can't go wrong with that!


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## DeadFrog (Mar 19, 2009)

Mad Hatter said:


> Did you use the black superglue? I've never used it but I've wondered how it polishes out.
> 
> I've thought about cutting off a stem and filing a new button before but I'm leary of getting the stem too thin and burning my lip. I seem to be the only one whose ever done that but it freakin' hurts


The glue I used is a black CA glue (cyanoacrylate). The same thing as superglue I believe. I had a vial of it left over from when I was into Star Wars costuming. After sanding with light sandpaper, steel wool, then a tripoli buff and carnuba wax it blended perfectly.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

louistogie said:


> I was wondering if someone can someone help me. I want to buy a nice pipe, nothing to crazy I don't want to spend that much. Just a pipe with a curve to it, maybe a few of the tools I need as well. Any tips for looking on Ebay or pointing my to a pipe sale will be much appreciated!


It's hard to pick a pipe for someone else - very personal matter in most ways. If you're new to pipes the best bet is a pouch of Carter Hall or Prince Albert and a Missouri Meerschaum Legend (corncob) pipe. If you really just want to jump in there is briar, of course, but cobs smoke great and allow repeated smokes without dry-out time. If you're determined to buy briar you can browse Stanwell pipes here - Frenchy's Pipes - New and Estate Smoking Pipes

Pick one. Frenchy used to toss in pipe cleaners, sample tobak and a pipe tool with new orders. I see there is also a 10% off sale thru Sunday.

But a cob is probly a better idea for a month or two.


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## louistogie (Jun 21, 2007)

What would be the differences between corncob and briar besides looks. I was look to spend like 20 bucks or so. This guy posted a add what do you guy think?

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/wts-b-t-pipe-stuff/251701-pipes-starters.html


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## louistogie (Jun 21, 2007)

Also here some pipe that I thought look very nice. What do you guy think?

ARDOR URANO FANTASY--UNSMOKED * EXOTIC SHANK - PIPESTUD - eBay (item 390058375034 end time Jun-20-09 10:15:00 PDT)

RADICE HAWKBILL * UNSMOKED * OIL CURED * T/B - PIPESTUD - eBay (item 390058375951 end time Jun-20-09 10:18:00 PDT)

PREBEN HOLM TRADITION * A CLASSIC! - PIPESTUD - eBay (item 390058814143 end time Jun-20-09 10:45:00 PDT)

CHUBBY RHODESIAN PIPE - PIPESTUD - eBay (item 390058998562 end time Jun-20-09 11:00:00 PDT)


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

louistogie said:


> What would be the differences between corncob and briar besides looks. I was look to spend like 20 bucks or so. This guy posted a add what do you guy think?
> 
> http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/wts-b-t-pipe-stuff/251701-pipes-starters.html


A cob is "usually" smaller (less space to put less tobacco) and may not last as long as a briar. They are cheap and great for starter pipes, since a "good" briar can cost considerably more. Those two pipes for sale seem nice, and a BOTL here is selling them so it should be fine.


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## louistogie (Jun 21, 2007)

Cool what do you think of the first and last pipe on that ebay list I posted?


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## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

louistogie said:


> Cool what do you think of the first and last pipe on that ebay list I posted?


As far as the first one, Ardor is an excellent brand of pipe, however I doubt that the price will end up anywhere near that amount.

The last pipe is more of a crap shoot. It's already been "moderately" smoked, you can't see the hole drilling, and there's no brand name, so you really don't know what you're getting there.

As far as Pipestud, he has a stand-up business as far as I'm concerned. I also know him on a personal level, and wouldn't hesitate to buy from him.

The pipes, though, are up to you. There's nothing wrong with starting out with a corn cob. You can get a Missiour Meerschaum hard bottom cob for $8 that'll last you at least a year if only mildly abused, and for several years if taken care of.

WWhermit
ipe:


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## Alpedhuez55 (Dec 16, 2005)

louistogie said:


> Cool what do you think of the first and last pipe on that ebay list I posted?


WWHermit is pretty dead on with what he is saying about those pipes. The first three are all going to go for a lot more than the $20 you are looking to spend. The fourth one looks like a good smoker, but you will knot know what you get until you try. There are bargains on Ebay. But the best ones tend to be on estates that need a heavy cleaning.

If you want good a $20 briar, go to a smoke shop that sells a lot of pipe tobacco. It looks like there is a Tinder Box near you. They probably have plenty of basket pipes in the $20-25 range. For a decent basket pipe, I would look for something with thick walls. I have $10 basket pipes that smoke as good as my $50-$100 pipes.

Like others said...consider starting with a cob. They are cheap and available pretty much anywhere. Most drug stores will have them. And they smoke good.


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## louistogie (Jun 21, 2007)

Thanks for the information guys! I hope to start smoking soon!

ipe:


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## randyw41 (Apr 13, 2007)

*Pipes with stingers. Grabow-Kaywoodie?*

I have several pipes with stingers, you know, with the built in little metal thingies with a ball on the end. The ball end can usually be pulled out for easier cleaning. My question is, when you replace the ball thingie back into it's fitting, which way does the air inlet behind the ball face? In the down position or in the up position? I've tried both ways, and haven't noticed any difference in the way it smokes. Thanks for any info you can provide.

Randy W...


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## Alpedhuez55 (Dec 16, 2005)

*Re: Pipes with stingers. Grabow-Kaywoodie?*



randyw41 said:


> I have several pipes with stingers, you know, with the built in little metal thingies with a ball on the end. The ball end can usually be pulled out for easier cleaning. My question is, when you replace the ball thingie back into it's fitting, which way does the air inlet behind the ball face? In the down position or in the up position? I've tried both ways, and haven't noticed any difference in the way it smokes. Thanks for any info you can provide.
> 
> Randy W...


If they come out easy, most people would just leave them out. Try a few bowls without the stinger and see if it is an improvement.


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## MrTamborineMan (Jun 27, 2009)

Alright so maybe it's because it's 3 in the morning and I'm just tripping becuase I'm tired or maybe the forum is malfunctioning, but shouldn't the latest posts be at the end of the thread?

Anyhow - to my question(s).

So I've been smoking cigars for awhile, and I much enjoy it. The other day however I heard there was a tobacco shop about 15 minutes away from my house and when I get there it's much more a pipe shop than a cigar shop, and it smelled like heaven. I bought a few cigars from them (a cigar made just for this shop btw, not half bad) because the older gentleman working there was extremely nice, but now I really am interested in smoking a pipe, the tobacco smells absolutely amazing, and it just appeals to me.

so my questions are these: 

Does pipe tobacco need to be stored a certain way? My cigars stay in my humidor, otherwise they're ruined, however I notice the pipe tobacco is just in jars, there are lids on the jars, but still. 

Secondly, I keep reading about you guys well...doing stuff to the tobacco, whether it's cube tobacco (I don't even know what that means to be honest), or one of the other cuts (?) of which the titles I can't remember. Help?

And lastly, I've seen all the suggestions for starter pipes, etc. but I'm thinking about just going up to the shop and asking the gentleman there to set me up. He tells me he's been smoking a pipe forever so he's gotta know what he's talking about right? Good idea/bad idea?

Anyhow, thanks for any help you can provide. p:


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Not in order with your questioning but....

If the shop owner is indeed a good fellow, he'll treat you right and set you up correctly. If he's attempting to make top dollar on the deal, watch out. Without being there it's hard to help a lot. I highly suggest reading through the Pipe section threads to get a little better understanding of how it all works.

As for storage, keep your tobacco in an air tight container. A simple, inexpensive mason type jar(s) works great for this. Different tobaccos = different jars.

Again, reading the threads on here (especially here http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/general-pipe-forum/13541-pipe-faq-101-getting-started.html ) will help a lot.

My best advice is to get a corncob pipe and a couple different tobaccos to try. Cobs are cheap but can offer a great introduction to pipe smoking. If your heart is set on a nice briar pipe to begin with, get a good name brand and not a cheap basket pipe as they can be hit and miss at best.


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## Alpedhuez55 (Dec 16, 2005)

There are some types of tobacco that need some preparation. It may be a flake or crumble cake that needs to be rubbed out. A rope that needs to be fut, or an overly moist tobacco that needs to dry out.

And I would also stress starting out with a cob. Depending on the taxes in your state, you can buy a cob, pipe cleaners, pipe tool and pouch of a decent OTC blend like Carter Hall or Prince Albert for under $10. But you should definitely start out with a Cob before spending money on a brand name briar.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

MrTamborineMan said:


> ...I keep reading about you guys well...doing stuff to the tobacco...


Nothing of an overt sexual nature if that's what you mean.

What they said, above. Get a Missouri Meerschaum cob and start smoking some Carter Hall or Prince Albert in it. Learn how to fill the pipe correctly (very slight resistance when loaded) and how/when to tamp it down gently and swab with a pipe cleaner. A cob and some burley (Carter Hall, etc.) is a classic combo, not some low-rent kiddie deal, BTW.

After ribbon cuts (which are easiest to fill, tamp and keep burning - Carter Hall, for instance) there follows a world of great stuff, some of which needs rubbing, crumbling, etc. For me, none of that stuff in those jars that smells like cookies and peaches and stuff is to my taste but you might want to experiment with it (an ounce at a time) if you like the cob/burley.


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## MrTamborineMan (Jun 27, 2009)

alrighty a few things. 

First and foremost the newer posts are still on the first page with the oldest ones on the last page, what's the deal with that? 

Secondly I made some mistakes, which I tend to do a lot rushing into things, it's a bit of a habit.

mistake 1) not getting a cob, but getting a pretty cheap briar? is that what you called them? anyhow, it seems fine, but still. 

Mistakes 2 and 3) being a complete idot and not getting a tool or a pipe cleaner, how are you supposed to clean a pipe without a pipe cleaner!??!?!?! I'm stuipid.

Mistake 4) Well not really a mistake, I picked two tobaccos that seemed like popular choices, smoked them both (the guy wasn't there today but a woman was and she was also very knowledgeable/experienced, and helped a lot). I really like one, don't like the other so much, no big deal, she gave me one for free so I'll just imagine I got the one I didn't like for free.

O, I would've read these responses but couldn't get on the forum earlier today, not really sure why.


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

TamborineMan

Each tin I open gets one of these inside.

By DMDM
Your B&M should have 'em.
Humi Puck. Very small. About the size of a quarter.
Its clay wrapped in tin with holes in it.

Shove them into a glass filled with distilled water, let them sit in there for at least a half hour so they soak up with water. Throw them in the tin.
Repeat every few weeks or so. 
Thats what each tobacco jar in my B&M has in it.

Make sure to find the proper dryness for your baccy. Too much moisture can lead to tongue bite and a hot smoke. No moisture at all will be a nasty hot as heck smoke and also bitey.
You gotta find what you like best. The proper balance can get rid of 80% of the bite I found. I toast my baccy for 20 seconds in the Oven Toaster before I smoke.

There is so much tobacco out there. Try as much as you can. All the different kinds. Virginia's, Latakia's, Burley's, Cavendish and all the ones mixed up with all of them. There is so much out there. You will eventually find many that you will take to bed with you and you will cuddle up to them at night.


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## Alpedhuez55 (Dec 16, 2005)

I read that the little tin humipucks have been discontinued and may start to get harder to find. But a lot of B&Ms will have still them. So if ytou see them, it might not be a bad idea to pick a few up since all that will be availble may be the little plastic ones.

I like them for containers of tobaccos like my big bail top jars of my favorite daily smoke bulk tobaccos which I am in and out of. I would be careful with small tins. I usually find that open tins are too moist to begin with and need a few days to even weeks to dry out and most 2 oz tins will be gone before the dry out too much, though that can change in the winter when the house is dryer.


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

Alpedhuez55 said:


> I read that the little tin humipucks have been discontinued and may start to get harder to find. But a lot of B&Ms will have still them. So if ytou see them, it might not be a bad idea to pick a few up since all that will be availble may be the little plastic ones.
> 
> I like them for containers of tobaccos like my big bail top jars of my favorite daily smoke bulk tobaccos which I am in and out of. I would be careful with small tins. I usually find that open tins are too moist to begin with and need a few days to even weeks to dry out and most 2 oz tins will be gone before the dry out too much, though that can change in the winter when the house is dryer.


Interesting on them being discontinued. I already have about 20. I think I may just get 20 more.

They seem pretty handy. Some guys at my B&M say they have had some for close to a decade. Some type of clay like residue or what not seems to develop on the outside of them after many many moons pass (9 years).

Good point on the 2oz tins. If its all gonna be smoked in a pretty quick time-frame, likely not needed.


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## Alpedhuez55 (Dec 16, 2005)

David M said:


> Good point on the 2oz tins. If its all gonna be smoked in a pretty quick time-frame, likely not needed.


Just makes no sense to me to add moisture to tobacco and then toast it. It is like cooking a steak and letting it cool to room temperature so you can microwave it. Plus toasting can change the flavor, which I guess could be good sometimes, but would not work with many blends. Drying it out would be best done at a lower temp gradually. Plus too much moisture can lead to mold.

Tins are a little different from manufacturer to manufacturer. I found a half empty 4 oz tin of 2006 Christmas Cheer that I had cracked open two years ago and had mistakenly cellared. When I reopened it, I still needed to let it sit for a bit to dry out. With C&D/GLP tins, I try to open them a week in advance since they always need to dry out a bit and even in the dry winter, tend to remain smokeable for over a month. And round tins like CAO and Dunhill, to me tend to dry slower than square ones like Penzance and Sam Gawith.

For me the only time I would use the pucks in any tin is when a tin is forgotten for a few months and has dried out. Then i would drop one in to try to let the tobacco gain the moisture gradually. Or with bulk tobaccos that I store in a quart sized bailtop or mason jars that are opened often.


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## thewileyman (Apr 14, 2009)

Okay, noob question:

I just recently discovered (via this board) that it's not recommended to smoke aromatics and non-aromatics in the same pipe, and that it may even be a good idea to dedicate a different pipe to different types of non-aromatics. Only thing is, I'm not sure which types play well together and which don't.

I dedicated my most recent pipe to non-aromatics, and so far I've only smoked Frog Morton on the Town in it. I'm hankering to try some Westminster that I bought at the same time. Will it be a problem to use the same pipe for both blends?


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

thewileyman said:


> Okay, noob question:
> 
> I just recently discovered (via this board) that it's not recommended to smoke aromatics and non-aromatics in the same pipe, and that it may even be a good idea to dedicate a different pipe to different types of non-aromatics. Only thing is, I'm not sure which types play well together and which don't.
> 
> I dedicated my most recent pipe to non-aromatics, and so far I've only smoked Frog Morton on the Town in it. I'm hankering to try some Westminster that I bought at the same time. Will it be a problem to use the same pipe for both blends?


At the very least - keep Latakia (Froggies) in a dedicated pipe. It reeks.

Aromatics too impart their aroma upon the pipe, generally a dedicated aero pipe is recommended.

Perique too can leave a mark behind. Dedication is recommended. For some "superb" VaPers, I prefer uber-dedicated pipes (i.e. for a specific blend ONLY) such as the out-of-this-world (and out of stock) Escudo.

Straight Virginias are usually subtle, so a VA dedicate pipe allows one to savor their delicate flavors and aromas.

The more pipes, the better :dance:


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## dmkerr (Oct 27, 2008)

thewileyman said:


> I dedicated my most recent pipe to non-aromatics, and so far I've only smoked Frog Morton on the Town in it. I'm hankering to try some Westminster that I bought at the same time. Will it be a problem to use the same pipe for both blends?


It won't be a problem for the Westminster perhaps but it'll definitely be a problem for the Frog, in my opinion. FMOTT is a light balkan blend and is very subtle. Those subtleties will be lost in pipe that also burns a heavy latakia blend. FMOTT has a very creamy taste rather than smoky and despite that fact that it contains some latakia, it's a lighter tasting mixture even though it has some oriental spice. I personally would not smoke those two blends in the same pipe, but then again I'm perhaps overly anal about these kinds of things.


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## thewileyman (Apr 14, 2009)

dmkerr said:


> It won't be a problem for the Westminster perhaps but it'll definitely be a problem for the Frog, in my opinion. FMOTT is a light balkan blend and is very subtle. Those subtleties will be lost in pipe that also burns a heavy latakia blend. FMOTT has a very creamy taste rather than smoky and despite that fact that it contains some latakia, it's a lighter tasting mixture even though it has some oriental spice. I personally would not smoke those two blends in the same pipe, but then again I'm perhaps overly anal about these kinds of things.


Ah, that's helpful. Given my very limited experience with pipe tobacco, I wasn't sure if FMOTT fit into the Latakia category or not. I reckon I'll try the Westminster in a cob for now.

Thanks!


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

dmkerr said:


> ...despite that fact that it contains some latakia, it's a lighter tasting mixture even though it has some oriental spice. I personally would not smoke those two blends in the same pipe, but then again I'm perhaps overly anal about these kinds of things.


What he said.

Or, in fewer words:

"Canaries pinned under cinder blocks don't sing."

Or, in 17 syllables:

Wood pipe tobak stink
Yes! I brought it on myself
Meers for Lats and VA

_Public service announcement 090716MrMoo-1_


----------



## Hot Stuff x (Jan 2, 2009)

You pipe puffers are some strange doods...


----------



## Hot Stuff x (Jan 2, 2009)

Quick question for the pipe guy(s). 

I am storing my tobak in sealed ziplocks, inside a spanish cedar cigar box. Any problem with that? I see a lot of people using mason jars for bulk tobacco.


----------



## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Hot Stuff x said:


> Quick question for the pipe guy(s).
> 
> I am storing my tobak in sealed ziplocks, inside a spanish cedar cigar box. Any problem with that? I see a lot of people using mason jars for bulk tobacco.


Ziplocks are fine for short term storage, say a week or 2, but they do allow some moisture and aroma loss. Just smell one to see what I mean. And storing in your above described box will, and probably already has, ruined the box (especially the Spanish Cedar) from ever being used to store cigars as the cedar will absorb the aroma and impart it into anything else you may ever store in it. Even different blends of pipe tobaccos will cross aromas.

The main reason for most people (including myself) using jars for storage is that glass will never absorb or release a tobacco essence and is 100% moisture release proof.


----------



## dmkerr (Oct 27, 2008)

DSturg369 said:


> Ziplocks are fine for short term storage, say a week or 2, but they do allow some moisture and aroma loss. Just smell one to see what I mean. And storing in your above described box will, and probably already has, ruined the box (especially the Spanish Cedar) from ever being used to store cigars as the cedar will absorb the aroma and impart it into anything else you may ever store in it. Even different blends of pipe tobaccos will cross aromas.
> 
> The main reason for most people (including myself) using jars for storage is that glass will never absorb or release a tobacco essence and is 100% moisture release proof.


What he said. And also your pipe tobacco has probably absorbed some of the cedar scent as well as the cedar absorbing the 'baccy.


----------



## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

If you absolutely HAVE to use baggies, double bag and use good quality freezer baggies. This should stretch your temp storage time (and yes, baggies are still a temp solution) out to a couple of months. Ase for storing the various baggies, try a cooler. I still suggest the jars however. Also, empty Middleton tubs (like the type Prince Albert and Carter Hall come in) make for great storage containers and will keep your tobacco fresh for a year or longer.


----------



## mojo (Apr 25, 2009)

Don't know if this is a good solution since I just started to do it myself, I'm using some of those surplus ammo cans to store some of the bulk stuff including flakes & twists. The lid on the can has a rubber strip around it so it should be kind of air tight. I'm hoping the cans will work out. I'm also using the mason jars to store some SL.


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## Dzrtrat (Oct 9, 2006)

DSturg369 said:


> Ziplocks are fine for short term storage, say a week or 2, but they do allow some moisture and aroma loss. Just smell one to see what I mean. And storing in your above described box will, and probably already has, ruined the box (especially the Spanish Cedar) from ever being used to store cigars as the cedar will absorb the aroma and impart it into anything else you may ever store in it. Even different blends of pipe tobaccos will cross aromas.
> 
> The main reason for most people (including myself) using jars for storage is that glass will never absorb or release a tobacco essence and is 100% moisture release proof.





dmkerr said:


> What he said. And also your pipe tobacco has probably absorbed some of the cedar scent as well as the cedar absorbing the 'baccy.


+1 On both accounts.....but I will add (if I may) just because its in a tin doesn't make it safe....My rule of thumb is if you are going to store a tin of tobacco that you have opened and it is a square tin with a tin lid....you need to seal it better because it will dry out......I don't smoke Dunhil so I'm no help with those. Plastic lids (in my experiance) are generaly safe.


----------



## Hot Stuff x (Jan 2, 2009)

Thanks for the advice. I figured that ziplocks would be fairly airtight if properly sealed.

As far as the cigar box being a writeoff, I knew that when I started, no worries there. I won't be using it for cigars.

I live in Korea, don't think I can get Mason jars here. I did steal a nice canister set from my girlfriend that looks like it might work. glass containers, but the tops are wood with a rubber seal. They seem to seal really well. Not sure if the wood will be a problem. 

I've got a lot to learn. That's part of the fun though!


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Those canisters should work well.


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## Senator (Feb 8, 2008)

Hot Stuff x said:


> Thanks for the advice. I figured that ziplocks would be fairly airtight if properly sealed.
> 
> As far as the cigar box being a writeoff, I knew that when I started, no worries there. I won't be using it for cigars.
> 
> ...


Prior to putting the top on, I would loosely place a large enough piece of plastic wrap over the opening. Close the top over the plastic wrap. This way, the wood top will not inherit the tobacco aroma and encourages a better seal.


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## AcworthAl (Mar 16, 2009)

Ziplock bags do not work. I make a terrible mistake of storying several small Ziplocks in a large mason jar. One of the bags was a CHEAP Cherry Blend of crap, there was also a small bag of Sunzus Bitches, I had to toss all of the bags, the cherry crap messed up the entire batch of tobacco.


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

Hot Stuff x said:


> Thanks for the advice. I figured that ziplocks would be fairly airtight if properly sealed.
> ...


Note that ziplocks are NOT airtight. They are "water tight", not "air tight". The material is dense enough to block moisture (molecules) from passing, but they do allow air to seep in, however slowly. Hence the prior posting about cherry smell permeating into other ziplocks resident nearby.

Ziplocks will keep your baccy moist in the short term, but they are not useful for aging since air will be exchanged, preventing the microbe critter actions from fruitful completion.


----------



## Hot Stuff x (Jan 2, 2009)

Ok fellas, I'm starting to get the picture here.

I have a bunch of extra tupperware sytle plastic containers. Would those be okay for storing tobacco?


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## Dzrtrat (Oct 9, 2006)

Hot Stuff x said:


> Ok fellas, I'm starting to get the picture here.
> 
> I have a bunch of extra tupperware sytle plastic containers. Would those be okay for storing tobacco?


I have used tupperware with no ill effects. Did you say you were in Korea? Bill Clinton was just there you should have said something earlier.:mrgreen:


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## Hot Stuff x (Jan 2, 2009)

Dzrtrat said:


> I have used tupperware with no ill effects. Did you say you were in Korea? Bill Clinton was just there you should have said something earlier.:mrgreen:


Pres. Clinton was in North Korea...I don't get up there too often hwell:

G.W. Bush was here in South Korea at the same time.

I'll bet that's the first time that's happened...two former U.S. presidents on the Korean peninsula at the same time.


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## Speik (Jul 12, 2009)

Is it possible to buy a pipe that comes with two different mouth pieces, one churchwarden and one sherlock holmes-style?

Where can I buy this?


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## AcworthAl (Mar 16, 2009)

Speik said:


> Is it possible to buy a pipe that comes with two different mouth pieces, one churchwarden and one sherlock holmes-style?
> 
> Where can I buy this?


Check this out
Butz-Choquin Amadeus Pipe with Long and Short Stem
Butz-Choquin Amadeus Pipe with Long and Short Stem


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## Joshcertain (Jun 1, 2009)

Also Stanwell with their Hans Christian Anderson Series
Eric Nording also has some real cool dual stems also
I think that Vauen also does one


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Does a cleaned estate pipe have the same "un-broken-in" taste as a brand new pipe? I ask because I have one that adds a strong, somewhat bitter taste to the smoke, and I'm hoping for reassurance that this will pass.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

It probably needs to be cleaned via the "salt & alcohol" method. A search on here will explain how it works. 

Or.. 

It may have already been cleaned and has just been sitting around for a long while.

Either way, it will not have the same taste as a new, unused briar. I clean every briar I get, regardless of what the seller says about it being cleaned or not.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

I may try that.

The seller (ebay) didn't say what was done either way, I just assumed from the general cleanliness of the bowl and stem in contrast with the apparent old age of the pipe. Perhaps they just reamed it really well.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

I currently have both 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (equiv of 182 proof) and 47% abv Elijah Craig bourbon (94 proof) in my possession.

Which one should I use to clean the bowl? If it's all the same, I'd rather not use the 12yo bourbon if I can avoid it, but I'd like to do it right.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jack Straw said:


> Does a cleaned estate pipe have the same "un-broken-in" taste as a brand new pipe? I ask because I have one that adds a strong, somewhat bitter taste to the smoke, and I'm hoping for reassurance that this will pass.


There is a syntax problem. You said, "...I ask because I have one...". Is the _one_ you have a new briar or a cleaned estate briar? It isn't clear.

1. There are new pipes that taste like industrial waste. If the inside of a bowl is stained (or clear finished, the bastids) you might get rotten taste and raw tongue. It oughta be illegal to finish the inside of a pipe bowl with anything except raw wood by golly.

2. I never had an estate pipe taste anything except clean and sweet (after a thorough cleaning).


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Mister Moo said:


> There is a syntax problem. You said, "...I ask because I have one...". Is the _one_ you have a new briar or a cleaned estate briar? It isn't clear.
> 
> 1. There are new pipes that taste like industrial waste. If the inside of a bowl is stained (or clear finished, the bastids) you might get rotten taste and raw tongue. It oughta be illegal to finish the inside of a pipe bowl with anything except raw wood by golly.
> 
> 2. I never had an estate pipe taste anything except clean and sweet (after a thorough cleaning).


I have an estate pipe, which I am now going to give a thorough cleaning and perhaps a wax: http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/2672697-post1607.html

I was thinking about options for polishing, and have no access to a proper wheel. If I cant get a good shine by hand, I'm thinking of buying a mother's powerball to use in a drill press.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jack Straw said:


> I have an estate pipe, which I am now going to give a thorough cleaning...


Ah hah.

A stinky rotten nasty vile estate pipe.
:behindsofa:

Cool Stanwell. You really want to remove what anyone else left behind. Everclear, salt (or cotton balls), plenty of alky-soaked bristle pipe cleaners to scour the inside of the stem and shank and something to take the grunge off the outside of the stem, too. It looks like vulcanite from the foto; vulcanite contains sulphur and, when it ages/oxidizes, can put a rotten taste on a stem. There are many strategies to clean up vulcanite including rubbing with a Magic Eraser (never works well for me), rubbing with toothpaste, steel wool, polishing paper, Clorox soaking, etc. Get not a drop of booze on that pipe finish - be really careful how you do it, esp. if this is your first go-round.

The pipe looks very nice for an estate. You might find cleaning it with a damp cloth and wiping it with olive oil will make it look great.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Mister Moo said:


> Ah hah.
> 
> A stinky rotten nasty vile estate pipe.
> :behindsofa:
> ...


Thanks, and I'll be careful. I've been reading a bunch of old pipe cleaning threads, so I think I have a good idea of what I need to do. I even have a great old toothbrush with the softest bristles you could imagine: think "brushing your teeth with a watercolor paintbrush." Not good for teeth, but great for pipes.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

OK. I read mixed opinions on what wax to use. I cannot find proper "pipe wax" at any local B&Ms. Now, I have read here that you should not use car wax, but I have also seen pictures (I think from morefifemusic) of someone using Meguiar's cleaner wax on their pipe.

So I have some 3M cleaner wax (cream type), which is awesome car wax (best I've found). Would I be daft to use it?

Thank you for your continued patience with my questions. 

EDIT - well i found using google a suggestion of neutral shoe polish. I will try this. Not much luck trying to search 3 letter words here!


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## AcworthAl (Mar 16, 2009)

Jack Straw said:


> OK. I read mixed opinions on what wax to use. I cannot find proper "pipe wax" at any local B&Ms. Now, I have read here that you should not use car wax, but I have also seen pictures (I think from morefifemusic) of someone using Meguiar's cleaner wax on their pipe.
> 
> So I have some 3M cleaner wax (cream type), which is awesome car wax (best I've found). Would I be daft to use it?
> 
> ...


You can buy a pipe wax from Iwan Ries. I have also used bees wax-that is easy to find.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Waxing pipes is a tricky business.

I rubbing a clean pipe on my nose and forehead a few times when nobody is watching. The shine won't last long but it's convenient, time-tested and cheap.

Halcyon costs much more than nose oil but it, too, is easy to rub on and buff off (with fingers and then a hand cloth). It's better than a nose-wipe but doesn't give a hard, long-lasting carnuba shine.

Carnuba gives a carnuba shine. It sure stays on for a long time but applying it requires the right amount of heat/friction to soften and apply it on briar. Doing that with a power tool is great IF you have a wheel than runs at low enough rpm to soften the wax without mangling the briar.

I admire the carnuba guys but stick with Halcyon and the nose swipe.


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## cavanor (Jul 26, 2009)

I never thought of the nose wipe, will give it a shot. Although I do know the nose wipe is used by brass instrument players to lubricate sections when putting a trombone etc together.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Damn. You'd have to have one hell of a nose to lubricate a trombone...


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

^ :lol:

I called around for some neutral shoe polish, and wound up with some cream type. I wasn't sure I should use it on the pipe, but the shoe repair shop guy was so nice and apparently short on business that I bought it for the $2 anyway to use on shoes. Apparently it's really good stuff. Also, according to wikipedia, most shoe shine has naptha and turpentine in it. Not too keen on that.

I guess I'll just buckle down and buy something online, and until then get intimate/nuzzle with my briar.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jack Straw said:


> ...I guess I'll just buckle down and buy something online, and until then get intimate/nuzzle with my briar.


or...










get a sousaphone.


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## SidRox7 (Jul 23, 2009)

I am currently dabbling in making a pipe and I bored the bowl hole a bit deeper than the stem hole... is there some sort of safe putty or what not I can put in the bottom of the bowl? I guess I could always smoke down as far as I can but don't want to waste any baccy! :smoke2:


----------



## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

SidRox7 said:


> I am currently dabbling in making a pipe and I bored the bowl hole a bit deeper than the stem hole... is there some sort of safe putty or what not I can put in the bottom of the bowl? I guess I could always smoke down as far as I can but don't want to waste any baccy! :smoke2:


Pipe mud.
Make a thick paste with cigar ash and a little water.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

i just pulled my pipe out from not using it in a few months, and its bee giving my tobacco a bad taste, what is a good way to clean the pull out? should i use rubbing alcohol>? or something else to clean out the bowl?:smoke2:


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## Dzrtrat (Oct 9, 2006)

EvoFX said:


> i just pulled my pipe out from not using it in a few months, and its bee giving my tobacco a bad taste, what is a good way to clean the pull out? should i use rubbing alcohol>? or something else to clean out the bowl?:smoke2:


Pull out... I'm assuming you mean the stem (but I know what happens when you assume) I use everclear...You can buy pipe sweetener, possibly from your local B&M. I think some use rubbing alcohol, I'm just not fond of the taste.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

Dzrtrat said:


> Pull out... I'm assuming you mean the stem (but I know what happens when you assume) I use everclear...You can buy pipe sweetener, possibly from your local B&M. I think some use rubbing alcohol, I'm just not fond of the taste.


thanks, acutally i just realized i meant to say bowl out, i not sure how i got pull out lol.

were can you get everclear? i have heard of it but never seen it


----------



## Dzrtrat (Oct 9, 2006)

EvoFX said:


> were can you get everclear? i have heard of it but never seen it


you have to be at least 21 in the US and you get it at a liquor store.


----------



## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

ok cool, ill go next week and pick some up, is that the best way to clean out the bowl? do i just pour some in there or do i q-tip it or something


----------



## cp478 (Oct 23, 2008)

some states and some cities no longer allow the sale of everclear. 
just a heads up.


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## Dzrtrat (Oct 9, 2006)

swap it with a q-tip or a pipe cleaner....also you can dip the end of a pipe cleaner and run it through the stem and shank....it doesn't take much and don't get it on the outside of the bowl as it can lift the finish.


----------



## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

EvoFX said:


> i just pulled my pipe out from not using it in a few months, and its bee giving my tobacco a bad taste, what is a good way to clean the pull out? should i use rubbing alcohol>? or something else to clean out the bowl?:smoke2:


The easy clean (for not-so-stinky pipes). Use any available alcohol, higher octane is better, unflavored (Vodka) better but if you like the taste of say, Jim Bean - by all means use it. Take pipe apart, i.e. pull the stem using a clockwise unscrewing action (never just yank it out). Ditto for putting it back, screw it into place the same CLOCKWISE screwing action, yes, the same direction.

Take a bristle cleaner - this is a pipe cleaner with embedded spikes (bristles). Dip one end, about a half inch, into your preferred liquid, shake it off, don't want drips. Insert into stem through either end, wiggle it back and forth, then leave it in (with the wetted part just sticking out the other end from insertion - leave for a few minutes. Meanwhile, grab two qtips - use one to clean your ears, dip one end of the other into the cleaning liquid, shake off drips. Put wet end of QT into pipe shank (thats the part you pulled the stem out of), scrub a bit, get it in as much as you can without forcing it. Be sure to NOT get any booze on the OUTSIDE of the bowl. Put it down with the QT inside.

Go back to the stem, wiggle the bristle cleaner through a few more times. Take it out and keep it aside. Take a DRY CLEAN fluffy pipe cleaner, run it through the stem several times, remove and keep on the side. Back to the bowl - take out the Qtip, invert it and swab with the dry end. Discard QT.

Take the used bristle cleaner - if it is NOT too dirty you can use it, or take a fresh one and wet one end. Insert wet end into shank till the end just appears inside the bowl, scrub a dub dub. Invert bristle cleaner, scrub a dub dub. You may need to fold over the bristle cleaner if the airhole is too big. Scrub away. Then discard the bristle cleaner. Take up the previously used fluffy - if its dirty toss it and get a fresh one. Put it into the shank and scrub away, again you may need to fold it over if the hole is big.

Reassemble pipe by using a clockwise screwing action, put on pipe rack (or vertical, preferred) on a desk NOT INSIDE A DRAWER OR BOX. Let it dry out for a day or two. Smoke and enjoy.

If it is still stinky, you need to clean the inside of the bowl. Use the salt and booze solution posted elsewhere. You may also need to ream out yucky cake.

I find that keeping a pipe clean after each smoke reduces the necessity of frequent scrubbing. Just like teeth, keeping 'em clean after each use is easier (and cheaper) than having a dentist clean them for you.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Dzrtrat said:


> don't get it on the outside of the bowl as it can *[or will, instantly, without mercy]* lift the finish.


One drip always takes the finish off my pipes. :scared: I'm an expert on one-drip finish removal.


----------



## parkland1 (Sep 25, 2009)

Recently I purchased my first ever kaywoodie pipe with a metal stinger insert. Does anyone have any experience with conditioning / cleaning pipes with stingers?


----------



## GregNJ (Sep 24, 2009)

I'm curious what the word "Navy" means, in reference to a blend. Thanks.

Greg


----------



## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

parkland1 said:


> Recently I purchased my first ever kaywoodie pipe with a metal stinger insert. Does anyone have any experience with conditioning / cleaning pipes with stingers?


Is it removable? I have a Parker that had the insert and I took it out, I think it smokes better that way and you can run pipe cleaner down through it.


----------



## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

GregNJ said:


> I'm curious what the word "Navy" means, in reference to a blend. Thanks.
> 
> Greg


Navy Flakes have a hint of rum flavor to them.


----------



## parkland1 (Sep 25, 2009)

GregNJ said:


> I'm curious what the word "Navy" means, in reference to a blend. Thanks.
> 
> Greg


Basically we're talking about a Virginia tobacco sometimes with some burley although you can also find them with a perique, and usually this tobacco has rum added to it and some sweet flavors. The flake refers to the cut of tobacco. So, you can have a variety of navy blends out there.


----------



## parkland1 (Sep 25, 2009)

Commander, thanks for your reply. I did try removing it. It does work very well. I know that there are people out there that actually prefer to smoke their pipe without the stinger in there. Is there anything out there that you can use to clean the stinger itself? Just maybe soaking it in some alcohol?


----------



## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Yeah probably, the metal is inert so as long as it's rinsed well afterwords I wouldn't be afraid to use something on it. Mine has a long thin groove along the top so maybe an old toothbrush would work to clean that out.


----------



## parkland1 (Sep 25, 2009)

Actually worked beautifully. I just dipped the stinger in a tall vial of rum for a few minutes. Then I gave it a quick work-up with an old tooth brush and polisher. No more gunk. Thanks for your help!


----------



## StufnPuf (Oct 8, 2009)

Would there be any disadvantage to leaving a pipe unwaxed or varnished? Sometimes I really like the look of a pipe that has just been sanded down before waxing. I was wondering if there is any reason to worry about leaving a pipe unfinished? Would it maybe allow the pipe to breath better as well?
Thanks:smoke2:


----------



## Vrbas (Sep 17, 2008)

What can you tell me about the Christmas Cheer's? I read somewhere that they are aged years before they are sold, is that true? If so, what benefit would result from even MORE aging by ME?


----------



## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

StufnPuf said:


> Would there be any disadvantage to leaving a pipe unwaxed or varnished? Sometimes I really like the look of a pipe that has just been sanded down before waxing. I was wondering if there is any reason to worry about leaving a pipe unfinished? Would it maybe allow the pipe to breath better as well?
> Thanks:smoke2:


Its a matter of choice (and vanity) when it comes to the finish on a pipe. "Natural" or unfinished briar works exactly as well. Note that all pipes will darken with age, the result of combustion within and the tars/oils that are absorbed. Natural pipes will color naturally and gracefully, kinda the whole point of them selling them as such. Some like to rub the (cool) pipe against their snout (sides of nose, specifically, not inside) to coat with nose oil. See a thread by our very own nose oil expert Mr. Moo elsewhere on the forums.

Wax protects the finish, be it stained or natural. And makes it shiny. Wax on a pipe is good, waxing legs good if one is so inclined, otherwise not so good. Waning, bad, regardless.

Oh yes, stain used on a briar pipe is "alcohol" based, NOT varnish. You don't want to be breathing those fumes, nor watch the pipe explode into flames.


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

RJpuffs said:


> See a thread by our very own nose oil expert Mr. Moo elsewhere...


Cow nose oil is selling on the street for $300/gram if you can find it.

The Savinelli Natural pipes took budget conscious buyers by storm (I guess). A lot of folks bought them and speak VERY highly of them. I've not heard one bad word about the pipes. If you want to try natural there are plenty out there. For example:

Savinelli Naturals Pipe with Vulcanite

(If you get down the road after a while and your tastes, you know, mature, and you want to try some cow nose oil, I'm the connection.)


----------



## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

Hey Moo Man,

Would this work?


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

indigosmoke said:


> Hey Moo Man,
> 
> Would this work?


I'm a Bag Balm man.


----------



## Dzrtrat (Oct 9, 2006)

Ya Moo but the Udderly S*moo*th doesn't stain sooooo.


----------



## StufnPuf (Oct 8, 2009)

Haha Thanks for your replies. I had heard of the nose oil...I've actually used it for a patina on copper. Who knew nose oil could have some many uses? 
Its not that I don't like a shiny pipe I just like natural unshiny things too. I like a lot of things flat and wish they would start painting production cars flat black. 
I wish I were back in NY I could sneak into the pastures at night and collect me some moosnout oil


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

What is "rubbing out" of pipe tobacco?
Why is this done?
What tobacco is this done to?
Does it alter taste?

Questions from a newbie, thanks.


----------



## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

cherrymax said:


> What is "rubbing out" of pipe tobacco?


Taking a flake of tobacco and breaking it into smaller pieces by placing the flake in the palm of your hand and then rubbing it with your finger or other palm.



cherrymax said:


> Why is this done??


To break the flake into smaller pieces to load into your pipe.



cherrymax said:


> What tobacco is this done to?


Flakes for the most part, I believe.



cherrymax said:


> Does it alter taste?


I have read that the less you rub out a flake the more intense the flavor. The amount you rub out a tobacco can also control the burn rate.


----------



## keenween (Jun 25, 2007)

indigosmoke said:


> Taking a flake of tobacco and breaking it into smaller pieces by placing the flake in the palm of your hand and then rubbing it with your finger or other palm.
> 
> To break the flake into smaller pieces to load into your pipe.
> 
> ...


This is a good answer, but search for some videos on youtube and the visuals make it much more clear. Dubinthedam has a good video on flake tobacco.


----------



## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

cherrymax said:


> What is "rubbing out" of pipe tobacco?
> Why is this done?
> What tobacco is this done to?
> Does it alter taste?
> ...


Here's Dub's opinions on flakes.


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

StufnPuf said:


> ...I wish I were back in NY I could sneak into the pastures at night and collect me some moosnout oil


You will go far. 
:rockon:


----------



## bfox (Oct 7, 2009)

I am new to pipe smoking .
Smoked cigarettes for 10 years or so till I quit .
Got to smoking pipe cigars with the guys at work .
They about doubled in price and the quality seemed to go down also .

My question is .
What is the difference in the smoking quality of Briar pipes .
Some are $20 some are in the $1000's !
I know some are handmade .
But does it make the smoking different ?
Is it taste wise , Cool wise or what ?

Thanks Bill


----------



## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

bfox said:


> I am new to pipe smoking .
> Smoked cigarettes for 10 years or so till I quit .
> Got to smoking pipe cigars with the guys at work .
> They about doubled in price and the quality seemed to go down also .
> ...


A cob is a great smoker for around five bucks.
You might get a great deal on a great pipe,
but generally you can get a good factory made
pipe like a Stanwell, Savinelli, Peterson, etc.
for 50 to 100. A handcarved artisan pipe will probably smoke
better because of the skill of the carver and better briar.

Anything over a couple hundred, you're paying for a work of art.
(not sayin' that's a bad thing; I like pretty pipes.)


----------



## Vrbas (Sep 17, 2008)

*coughchristmascheerquestioncough*


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Vrbas said:


> *coughchristmascheerquestioncough*


ChCh: It's all VA tobak, Verbs. Some of the bite or sharpness falls off and the flavors soften and meld as a rule. Those who like ChCh (include me in) generally agree some/many of the blends improve over time. One thing about aged ChCh is, each can comes with a date on the front so you KNOW how old it is when you crack it.


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Ok I'm asking a Pipe Guy...HELP!!!!!!!!! We've had lots of rain here lately and some of bakky won't burn longer than a couple of minutes and then goes out and I have to relight. I don't get a long period to relax and smoke so I gotta go in 45 min. I pack the pipe in the "3rds" method. When I first started, I surprised myself and went about 20 min before a relight. Today ticked me off big time. Couldn't get a good hot cherry red glow in the bowl for anything.

What is wrong? Is it me or the humidity affecting the bakky? And does that mean I can't smoke when it rains? Oh hale no!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks.


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

cherrymax said:


> Ok ... I pack the pipe...


Don't do that. Filllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll the pipe. Evenly, but loosely - easy free draw before lighting. You can tamp it later, gently, after it lights. If keeping an open draw doesn't work, leave a bowls worth of tobak sitting out for an hour before filling the pipe.

Carry on. Stout heart. :drinking:


----------



## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

cherrymax said:


> Ok I'm asking a Pipe Guy...HELP!!!!!!!!! We've had lots of rain here lately and some of bakky won't burn longer than a couple of minutes and then goes out and I have to relight. I don't get a long period to relax and smoke so I gotta go in 45 min. I pack the pipe in the "3rds" method. When I first started, I surprised myself and went about 20 min before a relight. Today ticked me off big time. Couldn't get a good hot cherry red glow in the bowl for anything.
> 
> What is wrong? Is it me or the humidity affecting the bakky? And does that mean I can't smoke when it rains? Oh hale no!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Thanks.


You've been getting all that rain (like us) and the humidity in the air has probably overhydrated your tabak, especially if you've been sitting it out to dry. Try drying it under a lamp or nuke it for 10 - 20 seconds in the mcrowave on a papertowel


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

I discovered my tobacco dries out quite fast if I leave it next to the exhaust fan on my laptop for a few minutes.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jack Straw said:


> I discovered my tobacco dries out quite fast if I leave it next to the exhaust fan on my laptop for a few minutes.


Brilliant!


----------



## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

This is a total newb question and has probably been asked before but please forgive me and answer again. Does pipe tobacco age as well in an unopened tin as it does after being placed in mason jars or does that brief exposure to the atmosphere during the transfer have a positive effect on the aging process?


----------



## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

If it's a sealed tin, from what I understand, it's aging already. Switching it to mason jars would just interrupt the process.


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Mad Hatter said:


> You've been getting all that rain (like us) and the humidity in the air has probably overhydrated your tabak, especially if you've been sitting it out to dry. Try drying it under a lamp or nuke it for 10 - 20 seconds in the mcrowave on a papertowel


Thanks, Mad Hatter,
Nuked some today and 100% better.


----------



## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Good tip on nuking the backy. I'll give that a try tonight.

How often / How do you know when you should tamp the ash? I usually tamp each time before relighting. And just let the weight of the nail or Chech tool tamp the ash. After the second or third relight the draw starts to get firmer and the pipe smokes hot and then goes out. 

Should I tamp less often or stir and dump the ash at that point?


----------



## Habanolover (Feb 22, 2006)

Commander Quan said:


> Good tip on nuking the backy. I'll give that a try tonight.
> 
> How often / How do you know when you should tamp the ash? I usually tamp each time before relighting. And just let the weight of the nail or Chech tool tamp the ash. After the second or third relight the draw starts to get firmer and the pipe smokes hot and then goes out.
> 
> Should I tamp less often or stir and dump the ash at that point?


Ever since I watched Dub's video on "Maintaining the bowl" I have had to relight at the most twice unless I sit it down for a while and let it go out. Dub says that tamping is the equivalent of lighting.

When the smoke starts getting thin and you feel like it is close to going out you give it a light tamp (just the weight of the tamper) and it is just about the same as sticking the lighter to it. I have been doing this the last several bowls and it actually works. What it is doing is pushing the hot ash into the unlit tobacco.

This is the only tamping I do except after the charring light.

He also recommends dumping the ash about halfway into the bowl.


----------



## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

cherrymax said:


> Thanks, Mad Hatter,
> Nuked some today and 100% better.


You're welcome. Glad it worked for you. Its not my method but some guys swear by it.



Commander Quan said:


> Good tip on nuking the backy. I'll give that a try tonight.
> 
> How often / How do you know when you should tamp the ash? I usually tamp each time before relighting. And just let the weight of the nail or Chech tool tamp the ash. After the second or third relight the draw starts to get firmer and the pipe smokes hot and then goes out.
> 
> Should I tamp less often or stir and dump the ash at that point?


I always tamp when the smoke starts getting whispy and thin. Sounds like you might be overdoing it if your draw gets too firm and is burning hot, but most likely you're getting it too tight during filling and the tamping is just adding to that.


----------



## kamros (Apr 17, 2009)

I am a new pipe smoker and i was wondering how tobacco pouches worked. can you store tobacco in them for a long amount of time? how long? any info on them really

sorry i didnt have time to read through all the posts to see if this was asked ust incase.


----------



## Mitch (Oct 2, 2009)

I am getting ready to smoke Stonehaven. Which pipe do I use. I have a Latakia, perique, virginia, and two aro's and a cob. Is this considered a english blend, or a burley. Burleys are best in a cob right.


----------



## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Mitch said:


> I am getting ready to smoke Stonehaven. Which pipe do I use. I have a Latakia, perique, virginia, and two aro's and a cob. Is this considered a english blend, or a burley. Burleys are best in a cob right.


It is in fact a VA/Bur (Virginia/Burley) blend. I smoke it in my Virginia pipe, but opinions may differ.


----------



## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

kamros said:


> I am a new pipe smoker and i was wondering how tobacco pouches worked. can you store tobacco in them for a long amount of time? how long? any info on them really
> 
> sorry i didnt have time to read through all the posts to see if this was asked ust incase.


If the pouch lining is rubber (best material) and undamaged (no tears or cracks) it should be fine. An added measure is to put the tobacco in a zip-lock FREEZER baggie and then in the pouch. NOT the zip-slide type but rather the double seal, blue tinted baggies as they work best.


----------



## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

When in doubt always remember......... EVERYTHING smokes great in a COB!!


----------



## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

DSturg369 said:


> When in doubt always remember......... EVERYTHING smokes great in a COB!!


I'm still fairly new at this but I keep a good supply of cobs on hand for trying new tobaccos. I figure if I don't like it in a cob I'm not going to like it in anything.


----------



## juni (Oct 16, 2009)

Something I've been wondering: Since it takes a long time to finish a pipe - is it ok to smoke half a bowl and then take a break and continue it later (hour(s) after) or will it just taste bad or mess with your pipe? 

I've been thinking about getting a Stanwell featherweight for quick smokes since they supposedly are quite small but maybe smoking half a pipe and then the other half later could work until then. 

And yes, I know I could just pack a little bit of tobacco in the pipe, but it would be easier to not have to fill it again.


----------



## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

I often have bowls that I finish the next day; while the first couple of puffs may be a bit rough, it calms down fairly quickly.


----------



## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

juni said:


> Something I've been wondering: Since it takes a long time to finish a pipe - is it ok to smoke half a bowl and then take a break and continue it later (hour(s) after) or will it just taste bad or mess with your pipe?


That's one of the great things about pipe smoking.
A cigar will taste like crap, but a pipe will probably
taste as good, maybe even better after a while.
They even have a name for it: DGT (Delayed Gratification Technique).


----------



## juni (Oct 16, 2009)

Great! I've been worried about cake never building up all the way to the top of the bowl since I never fill the pipe completely. Thank you .


----------



## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

juni said:


> Great! I've been worried about cake never building up all the way to the top of the bowl since I never fill the pipe completely. Thank you .


Cake at the TOP is never a problem, it will always grow top-down. The bottom is the issue - one must break in a new pipe carefully so the heel (bottom of bowl, near airhole) gets properly dried/carbonated. Remember, moisture will tend to collect down thar (the so called "dottle") and over time, it soaks into the briar and the heel will eventually just disentigrate into a soggy spongy mess. And taste like crap, too.


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Recently acquired a Dr. Grabow estate bent pipe. Nice condition except I can't get the mouthpiece seperated from the bowl stem. Anybody have a trick? Also, need it open to see if there is a filter in it.
Thanks.


----------



## Habanolover (Feb 22, 2006)

cherrymax said:


> Recently acquired a Dr. Grabow estate bent pipe. Nice condition except I can't get the mouthpiece seperated from the bowl stem. Anybody have a trick? Also, need it open to see if there is a filter in it.
> Thanks.


I remember reading on here that you can place it in the freezer for a little bit and it should help you to separate it. I am sure that if I am mistaken that someone will point it out.


----------



## Habanolover (Feb 22, 2006)

What type of tobacco would exhausted rooster be considered? Looked it up on TR but it seems there were some varying opinions on it.

TIA


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

madurolover said:


> What type of tobacco would exhausted rooster be considered? Looked it up on TR but it seems there were some varying opinions on it.
> 
> TIA


I'd call it a very decent burley blend, M'over - sort of a barnyard version of Old Joe Krantz. Since EvanS sent me some it HAS to be burley.


----------



## Habanolover (Feb 22, 2006)

Mister Moo said:


> I'd call it a very decent burley blend, M'over - sort of a barnyard version of Old Joe Krantz. Since EvanS sent me some it HAS to be burley.


Thank you my Bovine friend. :tu

I am smoking it in my VA/PER pipe but I guess one bowl won't hurt anything?


----------



## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

Just curious, been watching pipes on Ebay and it seems anytime a bulldog comes up, regardless of the brand or condition,bent or straight, they seem to generate a lot of interest. What is it about that particular shape that makes them so desirable?


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

cherrymax said:


> Recently acquired a Dr. Grabow estate bent pipe. Nice condition except I can't get the mouthpiece seperated from the bowl stem. Anybody have a trick? Also, need it open to see if there is a filter in it.
> Thanks.


I'm not a Grabow-ist but SOMEBODY here is! Advice, please, Grabow guys?

I think that is a screw in mount; which way are you twisting (gently) to remove it? The freezer thing works almost all the time but, if it IS a screw in mount, you'll need counterclockwise torque (which is NOT recommended for conventional pipestem insertion or removal).


----------



## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

madurolover said:


> What type of tobacco would exhausted rooster be considered? Looked it up on TR but it seems there were some varying opinions on it.
> 
> TIA


Bur/VA/Per
Really tasty! :tu


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Mr. Moo,
I turned counter-clockwise to unscrew and it just turns, very tight too. I tried pulling strait off. When I remember, I'll bring it home and put in freezer and see if that works. Don't know if that dosen't work.



Mister Moo said:


> I'm not a Grabow-ist but SOMEBODY here is! Advice, please, Grabow guys?
> 
> I think that is a screw in mount; which way are you twisting (gently) to remove it? The freezer thing works almost all the time but, if it IS a screw in mount, you'll need counterclockwise torque (which is NOT recommended for conventional pipestem insertion or removal).


----------



## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Is there any reason why I shouldn't rub out some flakes ahead of time and keep about an ounce of the rubbed out tobacco in a mason jar? Sometimes it would be nice to just grab some and go instead of prepping it right when I'm ready to smoke.


----------



## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Commander Quan said:


> Is there any reason why I shouldn't rub out some flakes ahead of time and keep about an ounce of the rubbed out tobacco in a mason jar? Sometimes it would be nice to just grab some and go instead of prepping it right when I'm ready to smoke.


I've heard sometimes that can change the flavor. I don't know why but I've experienced it myself, maybe just from my tastes changing. That aside, I do what you're talking about all the time, a tin full taken from bulk and rubbed out.


----------



## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

Up until now I've smoked aromatics only in cobs. I have enough briars now so that I could dedicate one to aros. My question is, considering that most aromatics seem to have a higher moisture content and also seem to be of lesser quality tobacco and prone to bite, is a filtered pipe such as a Savinelli a better choice?


----------



## Habanolover (Feb 22, 2006)

Pugsley said:


> Up until now I've smoked aromatics only in cobs. I have enough briars now so that I could dedicate one to aros. My question is, considering that most aromatics seem to have a higher moisture content and also seem to be of lesser quality tobacco and prone to bite, is a filtered pipe such as a Savinelli a better choice?


I have been using a pipe with a full bend to smoke my aromatics in. The bottom of the stem is so low and curved that it is nearly impossible for the moisture to come through to the mouthpiece.


----------



## Hawnted (Oct 20, 2009)

Pugsley said:


> Up until now I've smoked aromatics only in cobs. I have enough briars now so that I could dedicate one to aros. My question is, considering that most aromatics seem to have a higher moisture content and also seem to be of lesser quality tobacco and prone to bite, is a filtered pipe such as a Savinelli a better choice?


Ive been smoking aromatics in my Savinelli. Both with the Balsa and without. No moisture is reaching the mouthpiece. However, all the blends have been Boswell blends which I have heard are not quite as prone to the wetness of other blends.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Pugsley said:


> ...is a filtered pipe such as a Savinelli a better choice?


I think the briar with the thickest cake is going to be the best. I met this englishman the other day in Baltimore who was smoking Vanilla-whatever in a a beat up Kaywoodie with a giant-gantic bowl; it was lined with about two-foot thick of cake. He said he didn't care if the pipe cracked (it hadn't yet) but, until it did, it smoked dry as a bone. The pipe looked like it had seen many miles.


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Thanks to the ones who suggested putting the pipe in the freezer then twisting it to get the stem removed. Did that today and will be cleaning it tomorrow!!

Thanks again.


----------



## Habanolover (Feb 22, 2006)

cherrymax said:


> Thanks to the ones who suggested putting the pipe in the freezer then twisting it to get the stem removed. Did that today and will be cleaning it tomorrow!!
> 
> Thanks again.


You are welcome. Glad it worked for you.


----------



## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

Pugsley said:


> Just curious, been watching pipes on Ebay and it seems anytime a bulldog comes up, regardless of the brand or condition,bent or straight, they seem to generate a lot of interest. What is it about that particular shape that makes them so desirable?


Its a very rebellious shape that works very very well.
Its mixing a few classics and is able to re-invent itself, as well as a whole new feel for a shape in general.
I am kind of pulling at straws here but I too love me a Bent Bulldog quite a bit.


----------



## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

The salesperson at a local pipe shop told me that they run lighter fluid through the stems when cleaning a pipe. He said it evaporates and leaves no residue. I've never heard of such a thing before and it hardly sounds safe to me. Anyone heard of this method before? (By the way, I decided not to leave my pipe there for cleaning.)


----------



## cp478 (Oct 23, 2008)

I run everclear through mine!


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Pugsley said:


> Just curious, been watching pipes on Ebay and it seems anytime a bulldog comes up, regardless of the brand or condition,bent or straight, they seem to generate a lot of interest. What is it about that particular shape that makes them so desirable?


Hold one in your hand and then you'll know. The bowl conspires with the diamond shank to complete the most perfectly shaped handhold. I have five (four straight and one bent) and appreciate them for their clean look and comfort.

See more discussion at: http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/general-pipe-forum/65014-bulldog-kind-word.html


----------



## Z.Kramer (Jul 2, 2009)

Pugsley said:


> The salesperson at a local pipe shop told me that they run lighter fluid through the stems when cleaning a pipe. He said it evaporates and leaves no residue. I've never heard of such a thing before and it hardly sounds safe to me. Anyone heard of this method before? (By the way, I decided not to leave my pipe there for cleaning.)


I have used lighter fluid for cleaning before, and it works very well for various gunk and stuff. I have noticed that it evaporates very quickly too, however I would never put in near anything the goes in or near my mouth.


----------



## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

All I know about lighter fluid is that it makes for great watermark detection fluid...

But if you're not a stamp collector, that's pretty unimportant.


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Is "Kentucky" tobacco synonymous with "Burley?"


----------



## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Jack Straw said:


> Is "Kentucky" tobacco synonymous with "Burley?"


yes. (96% sure)


----------



## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

Jack Straw said:


> Is "Kentucky" tobacco synonymous with "Burley?"


Found this description online:

*Kentucky:* This is actually a specially treated Burley tobacco, produced in Kentucky. Unlike Burley, Kentucky is fire-cured. Its aroma is not as heavy as with Latakia, but very aromatic and unique. The nicotine content tends to be rather high, and therefor is used in limited amounts.


----------



## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

indigosmoke said:


> Found this description online:
> 
> *Kentucky:* This is actually a specially treated Burley tobacco, produced in Kentucky. Unlike Burley, Kentucky is fire-cured. Its aroma is not as heavy as with Latakia, but very aromatic and unique. The nicotine content tends to be rather high, and therefor is used in limited amounts.


Ah yes, perfect description.

FYI Irish Flake has Kentucky in it, that explains the "very aromatic & unique" part!


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Anyone had a ghost in an estate pipe that just wouldn't quit?

I did a salt treatment on the pipe in question, and it still had this sort of bitter, resiny undertone to the smoke. So I did another alcohol treatment (this time with cottonball, it's what I had), until the alcohol wicking up the shank was just short of clear, and it still has a bit of a sour ghost to it. It's a very old pipe, and I'm beginning to suspect that the previous owner must have been smoking dried spiders out of it or something.

Note: the dealer who I bought it from on ebay reamed it out to the wood, is it possible that a little perserverance and cake build up will make it a sweet, unobtrusive pipe again?


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jack Straw said:


> Anyone had a ghost in an estate pipe that just wouldn't quit?
> 
> ...the dealer who I bought it from on ebay reamed it out to the wood, is it possible that a little perserverance and cake build up will make it a sweet, unobtrusive pipe again?


One took four salt replacements over a couple of days. That included many Everclear refills plus fluffies sticking out the shank to wick the booze up and out faster. Soaking never made it perfect. I finally gave up and started smoking it and the ghost cleared out after a bowl or two.


----------



## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

I just got a new Peterson with a fishtail stem. There is no logo stamped on the stem and I don't remember ever seeing a Peterson without it. Does that mean that it's a replacement stem?


----------



## Jimmyc (Nov 5, 2009)

I just ordered 4 Corn Cob pipes online and I have never smoked one before. Is there any break in period with a cob like a new briar and do you try to build a cake? I guess what I am asking is there anything different about smoking a Corn Cob pipe than a Briar? Any responses would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim :ask:


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jimmyc said:


> I just ordered 4 Corn Cob pipes online and I have never smoked one before. Is there any break in period with a cob like a new briar and do you try to build a cake? I guess what I am asking is there anything different about smoking a Corn Cob pipe than a Briar? Any responses would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim :ask:


Pitching the filter is the normal first step with a new cob. They also need a few bowls to burn in, Jimmy. Sometimes they taste a little like corn during the first couple of smokes. When you get to the end of a smoke the wood shank inside the chamber starts to char and tastes a little, uh, like burning wood... it all disappears after the third or fourth bowlful.


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

The burning wood flavor isn't actually that bad either, if you take it slow!


----------



## Jimmyc (Nov 5, 2009)

So, do I fill the first bowl 1/4, 2nd bowl 1/2 etc. like I would a new briar?


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Nope just load and puff! :tu

It's not like a briar where you want to build cake.


----------



## Jimmyc (Nov 5, 2009)

Thanks for the help, I'm looking forward to trying them out.:banana:


----------



## StufnPuf (Oct 8, 2009)

So I've been smoking a little over a month now and I have all my tobacco's jarred except one cause I like it the best so it is still in the original ziplock. My question is how long will it stay good in the baggie. I'm smoking a bowl of it right now and it tastes way different than when I last had it over a week ago. It's not super dry but I guess my question is more...how do you know when a tobacco has gone bad or stale?


----------



## Blaylock-cl (Apr 28, 2006)

StufnPuf said:


> So I've been smoking a little over a month now and I have all my tobacco's jarred except one cause I like it the best so it is still in the original ziplock. My question is how long will it stay good in the baggie. I'm smoking a bowl of it right now and it tastes way different than when I last had it over a week ago. It's not super dry but I guess my question is more...how do you know when a tobacco has gone bad or stale?


How long depends on the tobacco. With flavored tobacco (aromatics) the flavorings are usually added with some type of liquid (alcohol, I think) that's absorbed by the tobacco leaf. When it dries out, these flavors evaporate out of the tobacco.

Unflavored tobacco leaves contain primarily water, and they probably smoke better if they're a bit dryer than flavored tobacco. If the tobacco doesn't dry out completely ("crispy"), the flavors can usually be brought back by slowly adding distilled water.


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Cleaning a Meerschaum? I acquired one and need a couple of questions answered: On the outside of the bowl has turned brown, dirty from handling. How do I clean that?

Part of bowl where the stem threads in is a little loose. Will a drop of superglue be ok to hold that tight?

Thanks.


----------



## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

cherrymax said:


> Cleaning a Meerschaum? I acquired one and need a couple of questions answered: On the outside of the bowl has turned brown, dirty from handling. How do I clean that?
> 
> Part of bowl where the stem threads in is a little loose. Will a drop of superglue be ok to hold that tight?
> 
> Thanks.


Believe it or not meers are supposed to turn brown as you smoke them! They are coated with a wax that helps the process along. If the bowl has been handled while smoking (particularly if the bowl gets hot) it may not color evenly, but that's part of the beauty of meers.

As for your loose mortise I'm not sure if superglue is the way to go. Perhaps Mad Hatter, IKMeer, or Bear will chime in with advice on how to repair the loose mortise (I'm assuming you are talking about the plastic threaded insert in the shank of the pipe coming loose).

You can find a quality replacement mortise that fits most meers here:

The Tobacco Barn - Replacement Mortise / Tenon Stem Fittings STF

Good luck with your meer!


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Mister Moo said:


> One took four salt replacements over a couple of days. That included many Everclear refills plus fluffies sticking out the shank to wick the booze up and out faster. Soaking never made it perfect. I finally gave up and started smoking it and the ghost cleared out after a bowl or two.


Smoking bowl three and she's right as rain. Thanks moo!


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Thanks Indigo,
Yes the plastic insert seems to be a little loose. Don't know that it will be a big deal but noticed it as I was looking it over when I received it in the mail.

Thanks for the link, I will check it out.


----------



## juni (Oct 16, 2009)

I've been wondering: Many say that the older the tobacco the better and that they put their tins in their "cellars". How does this age the actual tobacco since the tins usually are vacuum sealed?

Will the tobacco age better if you store them in glass jars?


----------



## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

juni said:


> I've been wondering: Many say that the older the tobacco the better and that they put their tins in their "cellars". How does this age the actual tobacco since the tins usually are vacuum sealed?
> 
> Will the tobacco age better if you store them in glass jars?


While tobacco tins are sealed there is still air in the tin which contributes to the aging process.

For an explanation of this see this link:

G. L. Pease - Frequently Asked Questions

Scroll down to the section On The Aging of Tobaccos in the above link.

Also, alot of good information here:

The Pipe Tobacco Aging, Storage and Cellaring FAQ: Aging


----------



## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

Corona pipe lighters, worth the $$$? If so, which models are the most reliable/trouble free?


----------



## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

Pugsley said:


> Corona pipe lighters, worth the $$$? If so, which models are the most reliable/trouble free?


Good question. I know the Old Boys are highly regarded, but I like the Pipemaster as it has a sleeker, more modern look. I'm also interested to see what owners of these lighters think.


----------



## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

Why do some pipes smoke hot no matter how slowly you puff on them? Is it an indication of improperly cured briar? And do they smoke cooler after cake begins to build? :ask:


----------



## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

Pugsley said:


> Why do some pipes smoke hot no matter how slowly you puff on them? Is it an indication of improperly cured briar? And do they smoke cooler after cake begins to build? :ask:


There are several answers here and I am sure you will hear more than this one. Here's mine.

When the baccy is burning in the bowl and the ash is glowing red-hot, the time it takes for you to feel that heat is connected to:

- Thickness of bowl walls. Thicker walls clearly require the heat to travel a greater distance, over a larger surface area to get to your hand. Its still burning at the same heat, with thin or thick walls, it just becomes a time factor. I mention this only because some people think that with a thicker walled pipe, they can smoke hotter and puff as much as they want. The briar is still feeling the same heat and can still burn through, thick wall or not.

- It can also be as you mentioned and related to an imperfection in the wood. The bowl may have a soft spot, a bad spot, a hidden interior flaw that makes the wood more prone to heat transfer. There may be a sand spot just underneath the layer on the inside of the bowl. Thats also a flaw that will create additional heat transfer.

- Certain types of tobacco, burn hot no matter what. They may have a lot of some ingredient, that raises it's temperature automatically. Aromatics are often said to smoke hot. The sugars are sometimes considered to be the causes of this heat.

- Also as you said, the lack of developed cake inside the bowl, and smoking 'virgin' wood, will ease the transfer of heat. Yes, having cake inside the bowl dramatically reduces the heat transfer. This is likely what you are experiencing. Your new pipe is just naked right now and completely exposed. Thats why it is recommended to smoke your first 10-odd bowls, very slowly because it is at this time that your bowl is most vulnerable to burn-outs or other heat related damage.

Once you have cake inside your bowl, most of the issues mentioned above will go away.

Hope that helps.


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

With aging bulks, they frequently come at "ready to smoke" humidity rather than wet like in the tin. Is it fine to jar these as is, or should they be hydrated a little before jarring?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

As with most tobaccos, dryer is better than wetter. Most tins need some dry-time whereas a lot of bulks are good when they arrive. For jarring and/or aging, unless the tobacco is just short of dust, the moisture level it is at is fine. Too moist and you could possibly invite mold. For myself, I like all my tobaccos on the dryer side for both smoking and jarring.


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## jessejava187 (Aug 25, 2009)

What the best way to store? I know you dont use a humi but what do i do, i dont want it to dry and how long can it be stored for. Maybe a dumb ? but i want to know.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

jessejava187 said:


> What the best way to store? I know you dont use a humi but what do i do, i dont want it to dry and how long can it be stored for. Maybe a dumb ? but i want to know.


I use canning jars, I get them at wal-mart for pretty cheap.

It can be stored in baggies for a while, it may start to take on some plastic-y taste after a while though.


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## juni (Oct 16, 2009)

I use glass jars too...if only I could remember to actually label them too.


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## Mitch (Oct 2, 2009)

Do they still make Escudo. I have two tins at home, but if I can't find it in a year, I would buy a bunch from the B&M that carries it for ten a tin.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Yes. When it "disappeared" it was a distribution problem. Now there is a new US distributor.

Whether any particular tobacco will be around in a year is anyone's guess!


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## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

Mitch said:


> Do they still make Escudo. I have two tins at home, but if I can't find it in a year, I would buy a bunch from the B&M that carries it for ten a tin.


Appears to be in stock at pipesandcigars and smokingpipes.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Jack Straw said:


> Whether any particular tobacco will be around in a year is anyone's guess!


Scary stuff.

Better buy some more SG just to be safe.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Jack Straw said:


> Whether any particular tobacco will be around in a year is anyone's guess!


You know, that's the attitude that causes that burning plastic smell to come out of my wallet...


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## Some Stupid Newbie (Dec 3, 2009)

Hey Pipe Guy(s):

Have you ever heard of this stuff? It was the only pipe tobacco they had at the "head shop" where I live. I haven't found a real Tobacco store anywhere within an hour or two drive, so my local options are rather limited.

It's called "Velvet" and claims, of course, to be "America's Smoothest Smoke." It comes in a plum-colored can, with a white plastic lid that says "Quality product of the Pinkerton Tobacco Company" The only description it gives is "Made from the best Sun-Ripened _Kentucky Burley Tobacco_ aged to mellow perfection in nature's slow but sure way. Burns cool and sweet in your pipe" and then is dated and copyrighted 2001 The Pinkerton Tobacco Company Owensboro, Kentucky 42301

All I've had so far, being a stupid newbie, is Walgreen's stuff, which is about 20 bucks for a 12oz bag. Was this 14oz can worth the 26.99 the headshop charged me for it?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Pipes and Cigars has it for $25 a can so the price isn't that bad, unless you end up hating the stuff.


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## Some Stupid Newbie (Dec 3, 2009)

Commander Quan said:


> Pipes and Cigars has it for $25 a can so the price isn't that bad, unless you end up hating the stuff.


Just broke into it, it's actually really nice. I don't know how to describe it yet, but it doesn't have a really overwhelming flavor to it like I imagined something called "Burley" would. It actually is really kind of sweet and smooth. Glad I tried it.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Velvet is a good "drugstore" blend with a somewhat sweet aftertaste but also a pretty good Burley profile. It's a little on the mild side but still tastes good none the less. For anyone that hasn't tried it I suggest at least a bowl or two and decide for yourself.


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## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Welcome to Pipes. I've only been in for about 5 months but ya just gotta jump in with both feet. But before you do read the reviews section in the pipe area. Also, go to Tobacco Reviews and read there. You'll be in there for hours reading on brands, blends and such.

Have fun.


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## eNthusiast (Dec 4, 2009)

here's a silly question: do you hardcore pipe smokers detest aromatics as much as cigar smokers do flavoreds?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

There are some pipe Aromatics that are actually pretty good. Nearly all pipe tobaccos have some type of topping/flavoring/casing.... Whatever you want to call it. The trick to it all is what is added, when it's added, and the amount added. Myself, I enjoy many such tobaccos.


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## eNthusiast (Dec 4, 2009)

hmm, that's interesting. are there any other additives besides natural/artificial flavors and rum?

i was under the impression that most natual blends, like say a virginia, are just pure tobacco.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

If you'll head over to TobaccoReviews.com - The largest collection of pipe tobacco reviews on the internet, it lists the tobaccos and will state if there are additives. Very useful info and a great site.


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## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

eNthusiast said:


> here's a silly question: do you hardcore pipe smokers detest aromatics as much as cigar smokers do flavoreds?


Still haven't tried one.
I don't like the idea of "flavored" tobacco.


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

eNthusiast said:


> here's a silly question: do you hardcore pipe smokers detest aromatics as much as cigar smokers do flavoreds?


It's up in the air what the percentages are.

I know A LOT of HardCore Pipers who absolutely hate all aromatics.
but
I know A LOT of HardCore Pipers who only smoke aromatics.

I guess it's all about the crowd you run with. If you run with like-minded people, you will be hearing that vain of thought a lot and it may seem like it's the rule.

I dont think there is one though.

In the end it's all personal preference and thats it.


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## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

David M said:


> I guess it's all about the crowd you run with.


I don't have a crowd; I'm Hermit.


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

Hermit said:


> I don't have a crowd; I'm Hermit.


(points to self) - "ME DAVID"
HUMPH!
[Pounds Chest]
:rotfl:


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

DSturg369 said:


> If you'll head over to TobaccoReviews.com - The largest collection of pipe tobacco reviews on the internet, it lists the tobaccos and will state if there are additives. Very useful info and a great site.


Personally, I don't think TobaccoReviews is always correct, either in this area or others.


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## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

MarkC said:


> Personally, I don't think TobaccoReviews is always correct, either in this area or others.


TR is a great resource, but yer right; it's *not* always correct.


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

MarkC said:


> Personally, I don't think TobaccoReviews is always correct, either in this area or others.


Do you mean in the listing of the different types of tobaccos inside the general description
-or-
The people's general opinion on taste and what not.

I am hoping it ain't the first because...isn't that easy to get right?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Reviews will vary, depending on the smoker's personal tastes, but the general description, and more specifically the "Flavoring" listing under the "Average Rating" category (which is what I was referring to), is correct. Again, if you look, *most* have some type of added flavoring. Yes, even those that you thought might not have do. It might not be a very strong added flavor, but it's something other than pure, 100% tobacco on it's own.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

DSturg369 said:


> Reviews will vary, depending on the smoker's personal tastes, but the general description, and more specifically the "Flavoring" listing under the "Average Rating" category (which is what I was referring to), is correct. Again, if you look, *most* have some type of added flavoring. Yes, even those that you thought might not have do. It might not be a very strong added flavor, but it's something other than pure, 100% tobacco on it's own.


From GL Pease's blog:



G.L. Pease said:


> There are two things of interest here, namely "casing" and "top flavouring." They are two distinctly different approaches to altering a blend's flavor. Some tobaccos employ both. Casing requires that the tobacco be soaked, literally, in a "sauce" that may contain sugar, molasses, liquorice, alcohols like rum or whiskey, and various flavourings, natural or otherwise, depending on the manufacturer. Once the tobacco "drinks" the sauce, it's conditioned in large cylinders that dry it back to the desired moisture level, generally between 12% (on the dry side) and 22% (very moist). Optimal moisture for smoking depends on the smoker, but it's generally in the 13-16% range. The aromas and flavours imparted by casing will remain in the tobacco pretty tenaciously, and will affect the smoke throughout the bowl.
> Top-flavouring is added by spraying the finished blend with scents and flavourings. This is a much lighter application, and doesn't alter the moisture content of the leaf dramatically. Sometimes called "top-notes," this can be quite ephemeral. Because of the volatile nature of many of the commonly used components, a tobacco left to "air out" may lose a lot of the perfume that's applied this way.
> Depending on the casing used, tobaccos can become very sticky. Some producers use humectants to maintain a specific moisture level in the final product. You'll hear people talk about PG, or propylene glycol, the most commonly used humectant these days. It's generally spoken of in rather disparaging terms, thought it's not the PG that deserves the condmenation, but the blending houses who use it with reckless abandon. If the tobacco won't dry out, PG is likely the culprit. In small quantities, it does its job well. In large quantities, it produces a sticky, wet smoking, pipe clogging weed that should never see the inside of a pipe.
> Not all flavoured tobaccos are cased, and casing is not always a bad thing, but the term is used incorrectly more often than not, so a lot of confusion has been created.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Nice info..... Thanks Andrew!


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

David M said:


> Do you mean in the listing of the different types of tobaccos inside the general description
> -or-
> The people's general opinion on taste and what not.
> 
> I am hoping it ain't the first because...isn't that easy to get right?


Both, but unfortunately my aged brain can't remember specific examples right now. I'm sure I remember seeing a straight Virginia listed as Burley. Or vice versa. Memory loss is a terrible thing...


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

MarkC said:


> ...I remember seeing a straight Virginia listed as Burley. Or vice versa...


Yeah, there are a number of those instances but none committed to my memory, either. Just because it sez "X" at TR.com doesn't absolutely mean it might not have some "Y" in it. The sites usually repeats the claims on the tin or the blend publicity but that isn't always so.

I was just in a taste test of a 100% VAs pipe tobacco. It said 100% on the tin and it says the same thing at TR.com but experienced smokers in the evaluation decided it HAD to have perique in the blend. Tin says not. TR says not. shrug.


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## juni (Oct 16, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> I was just in a taste test of a 100% VAs pipe tobacco.


I wish we had taste tests here too . I remember an article about human tastes and wine testing and the writer claims that a human can only distinguish up to three different flavors in anything and that it all is very subjective (sorry, can't find it now).

Anyway, I think all the different flavors out there are fascinating and a long journey for a new pipe smoker to find favorites.


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## Phantom57 (Jan 15, 2009)

General concensus in the Western world is you have four basic tastes, sweet, sour, salty, and bitter. Everything else is smell. I think Orientals claim a fifth taste, but don't remember what it is.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Phantom57 said:


> ...I think Orientals claim a fifth taste...


Squid?


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## juni (Oct 16, 2009)

It is called "Umami"


> Savoryness, popularly referred to as umami, has been proposed as one of the basic tastes sensed by specialized receptor cells present on the human and animal tongue. Umami (旨味?) is a loanword from Japanese meaning "flavor" or "taste" (noun) in that language.[1] In English, however, "brothy", "meaty", or "savory" have been proposed as alternative translations.


I propose naming the flavor of latakia Umami.


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## Wiseguy1982 (Nov 17, 2009)

I can't believe that I am asking this, but do you inhale?


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Wiseguy1982 said:


> I can't believe that I am asking this, but do you inhale?


Nope.


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## juni (Oct 16, 2009)

Wiseguy1982 said:


> I can't believe that I am asking this, but do you inhale?


Yep.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

juni said:


> I propose naming the flavor of latakia Umami.


What'd you say about mymami?:shocked:


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

a question: i was going through missouri meerschaum website to order a pipe and i saw that except for 2 or 3 pipes, all others are filtered. now i've read somewhere that if you don't like the filter, just discard it and go on with the pipe. but will the filter cavity not collect moisture more than an unfiltered pipe, and cause gurgle and bite etc?

thanks


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Wiseguy1982 said:


> I can't believe that I am asking this, but do you inhale?


Never. Snorking only.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Jogi said:


> a question: i was going through missouri meerschaum website to order a pipe and i saw that except for 2 or 3 pipes, all others are filtered. now i've read somewhere that if you don't like the filter, just discard it and go on with the pipe. but will the filter cavity not collect moisture more than an unfiltered pipe, and cause gurgle and bite etc?
> 
> thanks


This is true. Most cob smokers discard the filter; I do as well. You can leave it in but it'll need to be changed every couple of bowlfuls or it will develop a nasty taste. This is why most simply don't use one. As for it affecting how it smokes with regards to moisture buildup, it makes little difference if you smoke slow, just as with a briar. I personally believe that the paper filters collect MORE moisture. But, experiment and see what works best for you, filtered or not.... They are pretty cheap if you decide to go that way.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Thanks DSturg369. filters might also cause hindrance when i want to run a pipe cleaner through the stem all the way to the bowl, right? so i guess i'd prefer discarding it..


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Yes, if a filter is used it will block a cleaner from reaching to the bowl. One good thing to note however is that I have yet to need to use a cleaner for absorbing any moisture while smoking any of my cobs.... Just lucky I guess. This could be that I like my tobaccos on the dry side of dry.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

DSturg369 said:


> Yes, if a filter is used it will block a cleaner from reaching to the bowl. One good thing to note however is that I have yet to need to use a cleaner for absorbing any moisture while smoking any of my cobs.... Just lucky I guess. This could be that I like my tobaccos on the dry side of dry.


I've had the same experience; tobaccos that need to be "wicked out" in a briar smoke dry as a bone in my cobs.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

suppose i go for a (aromatic) baccy that is known to be a bit too moist/ heavily cased, like, say Captain Black's White. to mellow it down, what should be done? i just put it aside (as it is or in a jar)? or i open it a tad so that it may get aired and lose some moisture/casing? again, if i open it, should it be left as it is or in some container?

i know the Captain may not be the best way to start, but hey, i'm a college student and things can get a bit tight... and all i can find in the "drugstore blend" (read inexpensive) category is Captain Black, Amphora and Evinmore Flake and Mixture.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Jogi said:


> suppose i go for a (aromatic) baccy that is known to be a bit too moist/ heavily cased, like, say Captain Black's White. to mellow it down, what should be done? i just put it aside (as it is or in a jar)? or i open it a tad so that it may get aired and lose some moisture/casing? again, if i open it, should it be left as it is or in some container?
> 
> i know the Captain may not be the best way to start, but hey, i'm a college student and things can get a bit tight... and all i can find in the "drugstore blend" (read inexpensive) category is Captain Black, Amphora and Evinmore Flake and Mixture.


hello? anyone?? newbie needs some help here... :help:


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Jogi said:


> suppose i go for a (aromatic) baccy that is known to be a bit too moist/ heavily cased, like, say Captain Black's White. to mellow it down, what should be done? i just put it aside (as it is or in a jar)? or i open it a tad so that it may get aired and lose some moisture/casing? again, if i open it, should it be left as it is or in some container?
> 
> i know the Captain may not be the best way to start, but hey, i'm a college student and things can get a bit tight... and all i can find in the "drugstore blend" (read inexpensive) category is Captain Black, Amphora and Evinmore Flake and Mixture.


I would say another drug store brand such as, Carter Hall, Prince Albert, Velvet, etc. would make for a much less goopy smoke for you.

That being said leaving the pouch open for an hour or so should make it smokeable.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

I agree. Use Prince Albert or Carter Hall to cut it down... Mix it 50/50 with the Capt. 

Leave the Capt open and let it air-dry for a while.... How long depends on how moist it is right now.


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## 8ball (Feb 17, 2006)

I got one.

Is Latakia pronounced: La-tak-ia, or La-ta-kia?


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

8ball917 said:


> I got one.
> 
> Is Latakia pronounced: La-tak-ia, or La-ta-kia?


I've always pronounced it the first way, but the guys at my B&M pronounce it the second way.


----------



## 8ball (Feb 17, 2006)

commonsenseman said:


> I've always pronounced it the first way, but the guys at my B&M pronounce it the second way.


Me too, and then I watched a JR video on youtube where the guy said it the other way. :noidea:


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

I pronounce it: La Tee Ka.

But hey......... I'm a Rebel.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

I probably pronounce things wrong in my head all the time, in reality who cares?


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## Diodon nepheligina (Nov 5, 2009)

FWIW... Here is what Merriam-Websters Online Dictionary says about its pronunciation:

latakia - Definition from the Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Whenever you say it, speak with authority. And if anyone questions you, you just:kicknuts:


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

commonsenseman said:


> I probably pronounce things wrong in my head all the time, in reality who cares?


The people at ...

Dunghill? :shock:


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## eNthusiast (Dec 4, 2009)

couple of questions:

for those of you who clench: where do you rest the end of the bit- on the roof of your mouth, or between your teeth?

and:

how do you clean off the cake on the bottom (of the bowl) of an old crusty estate pipe; i've soaked it with 70% iso-alcohol and rock salt for 24 hours and cleaned off the sides with a knife, but the bottom is still heavily encrusted. on my first pipe i soaked it for 2 24 hour session and it's clean for the most part, though still a little bit crusty. i'm actually using quite a bit of force, but this stuff is tough.


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## Z.Kramer (Jul 2, 2009)

Merriam-Webster Pronunciation


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

eNthusiast said:


> ...
> how do you clean off the cake on the bottom (of the bowl) of an old crusty estate pipe; i've soaked it with 70% iso-alcohol and rock salt for 24 hours and cleaned off the sides with a knife, but the bottom is still heavily encrusted. on my first pipe i soaked it for 2 24 hour session and it's clean for the most part, though still a little bit crusty. i'm actually using quite a bit of force, but this stuff is tough.


As a rule, "Quite a bit of force" sounds like a bad thing. The dull rounded end of a Czech multi-tool scraper does well.

How does the airhole protrude into the bowl from this granite-like cake? Is it, like, 2/3 submerged in ironcake? 1/2 submerged? Vanished? 100% showing, centered? Depending on where the airhole is there may be no reason to scrape this pipe to bedrock.

Is there nomenclature on the pipe you can share?


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

eNthusiast said:


> for those of you who clench: where do you rest the end of the bit- on the roof of your mouth, or between your teeth?


Between the teeth - there's only one really good spot in my whole mouth to do it, which is on the right side, nestled between the canines and the molars behind them. On the left side if I put it in the same spot it 'works' but the pipe is cocked at a funny angle. I would just experiment until you find what is comfortable (or that nothing is comfortable). I'm not sure how you could balance it off the roof of your mouth, let alone comfortably.


----------



## eNthusiast (Dec 4, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> As a rule, "Quite a bit of force" sounds like a bad thing. The dull rounded end of a Czech multi-tool scraper does well.
> 
> How does the airhole protrude into the bowl from this granite-like cake? Is it, like, 2/3 submerged in ironcake? 1/2 submerged? Vanished? 100% showing, centered? Depending on where the airhole is there may be no reason to scrape this pipe to bedrock.
> 
> Is there nomenclature on the pipe you can share?


hmm, now that i look at it, it actually looks like it's the wood itself. could all of that black dust i was scraping from there have been charred wood? it seems like the bottom of this pipe is not smooth, but is rather... bumpy, as in there're little mountains of wood protruding from the sides, and the bottom is not smooth like i'd thought it'd be, comparing it to the top, which is smooth.

anyway, yeah the airhole is completely clear (100% showing) and is flush against the bare wood, so i'm guessing that it's mostly clean now. thanks for the tips.


----------



## Jaxon67 (Dec 1, 2008)

What is the difference between an english blend and a balkan blend?


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jaxon67 said:


> What is the difference between an english blend and a balkan blend?


You could say:

take some VA (or VA/Burley) tobak and add any amount of latakia (or add latakia until it dominates, in the opinion of some) - Presto! It's english.

Take an english blend and add turkish tobacco - Presto! It's balkan.

Taken an english or balkan blend and add orientals until they dominate - Presto! It's an oriental blend.

(And take virginia/perique tobacco and add turkish Izmir only and - Presto! It's Sunday Picnic.)

There is kind of a wide latitude about what people think is this-or-that blend given the taste and blend composition.


----------



## Jaxon67 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks Dr. Moo

I kinda thought that was the way of it, but wanted to make sure. For now on, I shall refer to them as EUROSIANS.:laugh:


----------



## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> You could say:
> There is kind of a wide latitude about what people think is this-or-that blend given the taste and blend composition.


Sounds like the Moo Miester and GLP more or less agree on this one. See below:

_"The definitions of these terms seem somewhat fluid, apart from the fact that all tobaccos bearing these appellations contain Latakia. To my mind, it's more important to consider the difference between an English mixture and a Scottish one. In the first case, Latakia is a more dominant note, with Virginias and orientals filling in the gaps. A Scottish style blend, on the other hand, is dominated by matured virginias, possibly with small amounts of oriental leaf or a bit of Latakia for spice._

_There's been some discussion of late about what a "Balkan Blend" is, and after some poking about in old ephemera - tobacconists' catalogues, old magazines and so on - I'm beginning to believe that the term is meaningless. Generally, people seem to apply it to an English mixture with a greater presence of oriental tobaccos, but this isn't really a fair cop. I suspect the term was probably originally used to describe a blend that is similar to the now venerated Balkan Sobranie. What's interesting is that this particular blend was dominated by virginias and Latakia, with only delicate sprinklings of oriental leaf, which is quite at odds with the current colloquial usage._

_Probably better just to think of the two terms as being interchangeable, if we use them at all, since any definitions we create will be similarly aribtrary."_ - Greg L Pease


----------



## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

indigosmoke said:


> _ I suspect the term was probably originally used to describe a blend that is similar to the now venerated Balkan Sobranie. What's interesting is that this particular blend was dominated by virginias and Latakia, with only delicate sprinklings of oriental leaf, which is quite at odds with the current colloquial usage._
> 
> _Probably better just to think of the two terms as being interchangeable, if we use them at all, since any definitions we create will be similarly aribtrary."_ - Greg L Pease


That's funny. My definition of a balkan blend is one heavily dominated by Latakia and Virginias


----------



## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

So can anyone recommend any blends that contain orientals and virginas, but no latakia or perique?


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

MarkC said:


> So can anyone recommend any blends that contain orientals and virginas, but no latakia or perique?


Tobaccoreviews.com has an advanced search function to locate tobaccos according to leaf criteria. Here are results for "Virginia and Oriental" and not "Perique and Latakia." This is a small field according to the search.


1Greve Gilbert Hamiltons Blandning Swedish Match 5







2Orcilla Mixture Robert Lewis 12







3Poniatowski Vanilla Orlik Tobacco Company A/S 1







4Scottish Mixture Davidoff 24







5Solway Blend Mountain Village 2


----------



## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Let's not forget Sam's Flake! Honestly I think Orientals, unlike latakia and perique, lack enough character to dominate a blend which probably explains why its so hard to find blends where they serve as anything more than a condiment, whether that be to compliment virginias, latakia, cavendish or whatever. Not knocking them or anything. Just saying my own pursuit of orientals led me to that conclusion.


----------



## lé pÜff (Nov 16, 2009)

Quick question guys.
When people talk about all of these different types of tobacco added into blends to make desired flavors. How do these tobaccos differ?? are they grown differently or is flavor added to them after they are harvested??
Appreciate it,
Anthony


----------



## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

MarkC said:


> So can anyone recommend any blends that contain orientals and virginas, but no latakia or perique?


Embarcadero


----------



## gjcab09 (Jul 12, 2009)

lé pÜff said:


> Quick question guys.
> When people talk about all of these different types of tobacco added into blends to make desired flavors. How do these tobaccos differ?? are they grown differently or is flavor added to them after they are harvested??
> Appreciate it,
> Anthony


Hi Anthony,

I read a beautiful description of the various types of tobacco recently on this forum, but I'll be danged if I can find it! I'll poke around awhile more and see if I can turn it up, but if someone with a lucid memory (unlike mine) can come up with it sooner, feel free!

*Found it!!!*

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/general-pipe-forum/13541-pipe-faq-101-getting-started.html#post224142


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Hermit said:


> Embarcadero


+1 that stuff is pretty good.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Hermit said:


> Embarcadero


Thanks, I'll give it a shot!


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

MarkC said:


> Thanks, I'll give it a shot!


You can also buy Turkish Izmir bulk from Smokingpipes. Its a good smoke by itself. Personally I think its the tobacco that gives a lot of the character to MacBaren Scottish Blend.


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## Jaxon67 (Dec 1, 2008)

I have another question......What is the difference between vulcanite and lucite stems? Is one better than the other?


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## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Vulcanite is the black stem and is a bit softer than Lucite. Being softer, it shows more teeth marks. The Lucite is harder plastic, usually some bright color like yellow-orange. Being harder, teeth marks don't show as readily.


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

Jaxon67 said:


> I have another question......What is the difference between vulcanite and lucite stems? Is one better than the other?


Vulcanite is a kind of rubber (no, it does not come from the pointy ears and Live Long and Perspire planet). Its softer than the acrylic version (also called lucite), thus easier on the teeth if you are a chomper. However, vulcanite does oxidize really fast, it turns a putrid green and tastes funky and sulphury when thusly oxygenated. Cleaning it is more work, periodic de-oxydification and waxing is needed, but it shines like a mirror and looks better than acrylic. And acrylic doesn't (easily) oxidize or discolor, less maintenance, but acrylic is a tad more brittle than vulcey. I have pipes with both bits, and except for the cleaning issues I have no real preference.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Found this on P&C.com....

_"There are two main types of materials used for pipe stems- Vulcanite (ebonite or hard rubber) and Lucite (acrylic). Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Here's a brief rundown of the pros and cons of each:

Vulcanite: Pros- Softer on the teeth, and easier to make an impression in, which makes it more stable; can be made thinner and is easy to make minor adjustments to. Cons- Only available in a few colors; more prone to breakage; discolors and oxidizes more easily than Lucite

Lucite: Pros- Available in a rainbow of colors and patterns; more durable, stays clean and shiny with less effort. Cons- Harder on the teeth and is more slippery, so it may slide around until you get an impression worn in; has to be made thicker, which can be more uncomfortable; can't be adjusted as easily."_


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## Jaxon67 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks for the responses guys. Now, seeing that I have Vulcanite stems, what is the best way to perform maintenance? I have found that Olive oil works. How often should I rub them down?


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## IHT (Dec 27, 2003)

the Tsuge you will get in a few days has a lucite stem, so you'll get a chance to compare.
i'm starting to prefer ebontie/vulcanite stems. softer, easier on the teeth, don't leave toothmarks as easy (they leave a slight indention, but not the large scratches that are unsightly on lucite). lucite stems are pretty darn slick if clenched and you're doing something, pretty sucky to have a pipe slide almost all the way about of your mouth only to have the bowl turn sideways and dump ash/coals in your lap.


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## dmkerr (Oct 27, 2008)

IHT said:


> pretty sucky to have a pipe slide almost all the way about of your mouth only to have the bowl turn sideways and dump ash/coals in your lap.


...especially while you're driving!


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Yep, that's my experience too


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

So I just ordered a new pipe that I'm going to attempt to dedicate to Oriental blends. My current favorite is Red Raparree. Are there any other Orientals that I should or shouldn't smoke in it, if I really want to be able to enjoy RR in it? I'm assuming I could smoke Black Mallory in it since it's supposed to be very similar, but what about Presbyterian for example?


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## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

commonsenseman said:


> So I just ordered a new pipe that I'm going to attempt to dedicate to Oriental blends. My current favorite is Red Raparree. Are there any other Orientals that I should or shouldn't smoke in it, if I really want to be able to enjoy RR in it? I'm assuming I could smoke Black Mallory in it since it's supposed to be very similar, but what about Presbyterian for example?


New pipe? Details please.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

indigosmoke said:


> New pipe? Details please.


Here it is. My first Churchwarden










I'm gonna run it through VA's first just to be sure it doesn't love them, then try some Orientals in it.


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## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

commonsenseman said:


> So I just ordered a new pipe that I'm going to attempt to dedicate to Oriental blends. My current favorite is Red Raparree. Are there any other Orientals that I should or shouldn't smoke in it, if I really want to be able to enjoy RR in it? I'm assuming I could smoke Black Mallory in it since it's supposed to be very similar, but what about Presbyterian for example?


Have you tried Embarcadero?

WWhermit
ipe:


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

You should try this too

Samuel Gawith Bulk Turkish Blend Tobaccos at Smoking Pipes .com


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

WWhermit said:


> Have you tried Embarcadero?
> 
> WWhermit
> ipe:


Ive had Embarcadero and, well, it wasn't amazing. Possibly because I smoked it out of an English pipe though. I'm going to give it another try now.



Mad Hatter said:


> You should try this too
> 
> Samuel Gawith Bulk Turkish Blend Tobaccos at Smoking Pipes .com


Have you had this? How it it?


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## flyboylr45 (Oct 30, 2009)

I don't know if this has been asked before, didn't have time to search. I read about not mixing aromatics with non-aromatics. If I do and it starts to taste bland, can I just remove the cake and re-break in the pipe and the taste will come back to normal?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Instead of reaming it out get yourself some salt and some grain alcohol or 151 and do a salt treatment

The Professor's Pipe-Sweetening Treatment


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

flyboylr45 said:


> I don't know if this has been asked before, didn't have time to search. I read about not mixing aromatics with non-aromatics. If I do and it starts to taste bland, can I just remove the cake and re-break in the pipe and the taste will come back to normal?


Maybe but probably not. Depends on to what degree the pipe is permeated with the undesired taste


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

commonsenseman said:


> Ive had Embarcadero and, well, it wasn't amazing. Possibly because I smoked it out of an English pipe though. I'm going to give it another try now.
> 
> Have you had this? How it it?


I thought it was a great stand alone smoke. Flavorwise it reminded me of MacBaren Scottish Blend but some other guys have scoffed at that comparison. Anyway, it has quite a bit of character, not the airy what-the-hell-am-I-smoking sort like McClelland Blending orientals. Matter of fact I should order more since I mixed all mine up in a home blend a long time ago.


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## Jenady (Nov 23, 2009)

*Center Burn Issue*

I am breaking in a new pipe. It is a Stanwell straight billiard. I am burning Gawith Full Virginia Flake. This is my second smoke. I folded and rubbed out about a half of a full flake since I am still smoking in the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the bowl.

My problem is that I can only get it to burn a small column down the middle. At this rate I do not see how it will ever develop any cake on the walls.

Any idea what I need to do differently?

Oh, I am a re-born pipe smoker/newb.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Re: Center Burn Issue*



Jenady said:


> I am breaking in a new pipe. It is a Stanwell straight billiard. I am burning Gawith Full Virginia Flake. This is my second smoke. I folded and rubbed out about a half of a full flake since I am still smoking in the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the bowl.
> 
> My problem is that I can only get it to burn a small column down the middle. At this rate I do not see how it will ever develop any cake on the walls.
> 
> ...


Three thoughts:

-Could just be an uneven loading of the bowl
-Could be that you need to get a more even light to begin with. Are you doing a charring light?
-Either way, when you see this start to happen, take your pipe tool (the spoon part) and gently push the outside bits of tobacco towards the center of the bowl while gently puffing on the pipe. They should get going pretty well.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Sounds like the folded flake had an opening in the center. The opening will create the easiest path for airflow when drawling, thus drawing the fire with it. Folding takes a little practice to get it right and I suggest fully rubbing out for a bit.

This might help... http://www.mac-baren.com/TopMenu/Expert-Knowledge/Flake-Tobacco/How-to-fill-a-pipe.aspx


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

*Re: Center Burn Issue*



Jenady said:


> I am breaking in a new pipe. It is a Stanwell straight billiard. I am burning Gawith Full Virginia Flake. This is my second smoke. I folded and rubbed out about a half of a full flake since I am still smoking in the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the bowl.
> 
> My problem is that I can only get it to burn a small column down the middle. At this rate I do not see how it will ever develop any cake on the walls.
> 
> ...


I don't think you selected one of the easist tobaccos on earth for an easy, even and complete burn. A flake, especially a well-compressed, leathery one like FVF, isn't going to be famous for even, complete burning in the hands of someone without a good bit of experience. FVF is famous for a lot but, if a tad moist, it comes with a some challenges.

If this is what you want to break the pipe in with, let it dry out some more - like, until it feels a little brittle - and then rub it out really well (BEFORE you fold it). Also, to get a GREAT burn with some flakes you might need to cover the top of the bowl with fine crumbs to get everything easily and evenly afire.

And in the big picture there are easier things than flakes to break in a new pipe.


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## Ratbones (Jan 16, 2010)

Hello everyone! I'm very new to the pipe, having received my new Bjarne Copenhagen and a couple tins of tobaccy (Squadron Leader, and Frog Morton) I smoked my first bowl yesterday. I smoked about 3/4's of a bowl of the S.L. and found it to be very enjoyable, despite the cold and the wind.

I have a couple questions... First, is it a bad idea to smoke the same briar pipe a couple days in a row, or is it important to give it some time to rest between smokes?

Second, would it be a better idea to keep going with the S.L. while breaking the pipe in, or am I probably ok to try out the F.M.?

Your help and insight is very much appreciated!


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## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

Rathbones,

Most people would say to rest the pipe, but this is an issue that provokes some debate. Most people recommend waiting 24 hours between smokes. In any case be sure to let the pipe cool before firing her up again.

As for SL and FM, I've smoked both in the same pipe without an issue. Both are english type blends so until you build your rotation I don't see a problem with using one pipe for both. By the way if you like FM you might want to try GLP's Maltese Falcon. I was looking for a non PG blend that was similar to FM and found Maltese Falcon to be a nice replacement.

Enjoy the journey!


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## Ratbones (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks much Indigosmoke, for your insight. I'll probably smoke this pipe daily till I can afford an alternate. Oh, and thanks for the Maltese Falcon suggestion! I'll be picking some up for sure.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Ratbones said:


> ...very enjoyable, despite the ... the wind... ...is it a bad idea to smoke the same briar pipe a couple days in a row...


Not near as bad an idea as smoking a new pipe in the wind. A briar without sufficient protective carbon "cake" WILL burn in a breeze. Ruination is a distinct possibility.


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## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

Ratbones said:


> Thanks much Indigosmoke, for your insight. I'll probably smoke this pipe daily till I can afford an alternate. Oh, and thanks for the Maltese Falcon suggestion! I'll be picking some up for sure.


No problem Ratbones. Glad I could help (or rather pass along some info I myself have received from the kind BOTL on this site.)


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## Ratbones (Jan 16, 2010)

So I've smoked a couple bowls of Frog Morton, and a bowl of Squadron Leader now, and my pipe seems to be developing a cake already, so that's exciting. I must say that this really is a nice hobby, with lots to learn and lots to experience and try. I wanted to say thanks for the suggestions and tips provided in this thread.


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## dakrido (Jan 6, 2010)

hi all,
i'm new to the forum, and to pipesmoking (6 months).
i very much like latakia, and wonder if anyone could make me any new suggestions.
on latakias i've tried:

common wealth
ashton's artisan's blend
all the esoterica's
brown boogie
pirate cake
balkan sasienie
balkan by gawith hoggarth

thanx, david


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

dakrido said:


> hi all,
> i'm new to the forum, and to pipesmoking (6 months).
> i very much like latakia, and wonder if anyone could make me any new suggestions.
> on latakias i've tried:
> ...


Odyssey by GL Pease (cyprian latakia)
Frog Morton Across the Pond by McClelland (syrian latakia)
Squadron Leader by Samuel Gawith (?)


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## dakrido (Jan 6, 2010)

hi chrono,
thanks for that!
i allways order at 4 noggins, and squadron leader, unfortunately is never available..... any clue why?


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

dakrido said:


> hi chrono,
> thanks for that!
> i allways order at 4 noggins, and squadron leader, unfortunately is never available..... any clue why?


No idea, but right now smokingpipes.com has it on sale for $6.15 a tin!


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

That's the reason you need more than one source for tobacco. We all have our favorites, I'm sure, but when you want something your regular supplier doesn't have, don't be afraid to try a new seller.


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## dakrido (Jan 6, 2010)

hi marc,
very true... thing is, i'm in europe. so ordering from the states is not cheap. however, depending (...) on how the package gets mailed it sometimes does get through customs whitout extra charge. so you see why one might be hesitant to change one's supplier.
please do let me know if you have any suggestions.
david


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## 4noggins (May 9, 2009)

Hi Guys,

Just for the record, I have Squadron Leader in stock both in tins and bulk.

Thanks to all for your past business...........



Rich
4noggins.com


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## dakrido (Jan 6, 2010)

hahaha, now look who's reading!

i saw you had squadron leader available, and i would have liked to place on order yesterday in fact. however, i'd also like some penzance, old gowrie, and skiff... do you know when you'll be geting some?

my guess is that they're so difficult to get a hold of because of the high scores on the review sites, however you'd think that in that case they'd produce a little more, which clearly isnt the case....:frusty:

david
ps. no regrets having tried the pirate cake you suggested last time i ordered. LOVING IT.


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## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Just acquired a pipe off Ebay and was cleaning it today and notice some small cracks in the bottom of the bowl. Yes, they go through to the outside.

My question; will wood putty work to seal the bottom of the bowl on the inside without melting, burning, expolding while I'm smoking?

I think I have a system setup to repair as long as the putty does not do one of the above.

Thanks.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

I use Durham's water putty to raise heals. Works fine


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## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Mad Hatter,

Should I thin down the putty a bit with water so it will flow into the cracks? When I cleaned it with the alcohol, it started leaking thru within 3-4 seconds.

Thanks.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Anybody know anything about the date-stamp on McClelland tins? I just picked up a tin of Black Shag from a B&M & the stamp reads: *210401* I'm not sure if it's from '01 or '04.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

commonsenseman said:


> Anybody know anything about the date-stamp on McClelland tins? I just picked up a tin of Black Shag from a B&M & the stamp reads: *210401* I'm not sure if it's from '01 or '04.


Nevermind, I figured it out. :der:

The good news is, I just got a tin from '01, the bad news is, this stuff got less than stellar reviews. Only one way to find out.


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## juni (Oct 16, 2009)

Reviews are only a guideline (although I've found they are eerily correct in most cases). How was it? 
(I can only imagine what our british friends think of the name "Black Shag"  )

dakrido: Peterson's Old Dublin is a soft latakia blend.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

juni said:


> Reviews are only a guideline (although I've found they are eerily correct in most cases). How was it?
> (I can only imagine what our british friends think of the name "Black Shag"  )
> 
> dakrido: Peterson's Old Dublin is a soft latakia blend.


Haven't tried it yet, still restraining myself since I have WAY too many tins open right now.


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## juni (Oct 16, 2009)

commonsenseman said:


> Haven't tried it yet, still restraining myself since I have WAY too many tins open right now.


Mason jars are your friends .


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

juni said:


> Mason jars are your friends .


Agreed. I'm running out of those though. According to my "cellar" I have 24 containers open. Most of my jars have "cellared" tobacco in them.

Guess I'll have to buy more jars ipe:


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## Brinson (Oct 28, 2007)

Okay, so I'm smoking a beautiful Savinelli I was given in the newbie trade. The stem attatches in an interesting way. Its only barely held in place by the plastic, which is conical at the end, going into a slot, and it meets the point at which they are the same size and it sticks. Both the stem and the part it connects to are non-briar. Not entirely sure what they are.

Now, my question: Since neither part are briar, would it be okay to remove it and clean it while the pipe is hot, or is that still a no no? Haven't tried it for fear, but was wondering.

Second question, 

They say to wait a day between smokes. Is this 24 hours? If I smoke late at night, can I not smoke when I wake up 8 hours later, or 12? 16? Has anyone actually tested the wait time between smokes?


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## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

Brinson said:


> Has anyone actually tested the wait time between smokes?


He has:

YouTube - I am a pipe smoker not a pipe rester - questioning the need to rest or rotate pipes

but the result he comes up with isn't the advice typically given.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Can i smoke 2 different aro's, (Amphora Red and CB White) in the same cob, let's say a bowl from Amph today and CB White tomorrow or the day after?


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

Brinson said:


> Now, my question: Since neither part are briar, would it be okay to remove it and clean it while the pipe is hot, or is that still a no no? Haven't tried it for fear, but was wondering.
> 
> Second question,
> They say to wait a day between smokes. Is this 24 hours? If I smoke late at night, can I not smoke when I wake up 8 hours later, or 12? 16? Has anyone actually tested the wait time between smokes?


You got an army mount on that pipe Chase. Army mounts came about from...the army and WWI and WWII. When soldiers would be in the trenches or out in the field and having a sudden urge to duck, cover and jump on the ground, a lot of their pipes would break where the stem meets the shank. The army mount became a solution to not only strengthen that area but allow for a quick fix to hurried removal of stem if needed.

Not all pipes have hard surface mounts. Yours does. So the heat and expansion of the briar issue you are talking about does not affect it. You can take it on and off as you please.

As for resting, you gotta think of it in terms of moisture. As moisture builds up, in order to keep the pipe in optimal condition, that moisture should leave and dry out. Some pipes will get a nasty rotten odor or taste when the pipe is not allowed to dry enough. It can become an issue when a pipe is severly abused. Some people follow it to the 'T', others just follow it as they see fit. You gotta find your own balance. If your not smoking full bowls, the pipe can handle a lot more.


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## David M (Mar 11, 2009)

Jogi said:


> Can i smoke 2 different aro's, (Amphora Red and CB White) in the same cob, let's say a bowl from Amph today and CB White tomorrow or the day after?


Assuming they both contain the same overall taste and they act the same when burned, it shouldn't be an issue.

Most aromatics fall into one category so you can smoke 'em all in one pipe.

Thanks for the advice with the lemons & honey by the way. Worked like a charm.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

David M said:


> ...Most aromatics fall into one category so you can smoke 'em all in one pipe...


Although they both have different aromas and textures, I guess I'll stick to this advice and save other cobs for some better stuff...

And you're welcome sir. Glad to be of service.


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## Grey7 (Jan 23, 2010)

Hi, I've been looking at this line of pipes called Monza. has anyone ever heard of them? How do they smoke?


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## bigd618 (Dec 10, 2009)

I haven't smoked a pipe in 4 years or so and I'd like to get back into it. Unfortunately, I took my collection out of storage and they're covered in mold. Are my pipes ruined or can hey be cleaned?


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

bigd618 said:


> I haven't smoked a pipe in 4 years or so and I'd like to get back into it. Unfortunately, I took my collection out of storage and they're covered in mold. Are my pipes ruined or can hey be cleaned?


I doubt your pipes are ruined, but you probably want to get them professionally cleaned/restored. Email George Dibos are precisionpiperepair.com and see what he thinks. Also, Dave Wolff at walkerbriarworks.com has an ozone machine. Per his website:

_In March, 2009 I bought a commercial Ozone generator. I constructed and tested an Ozone chamber for deodorizing and sanitizing pipes. The results are amazing! Ozone's ability to deodorize even the smelliest pipes is unsurpassed! Ozone actually oxidizes odors and removes them, It does not cover them up. I have deodorized pipes that were the worst of the worst with 100% success. Pipes come out of the Ozone chamber smelling like fresh air.

A side benefit (at least for us pipe smokers) is Ozone's ability to sanitize; 50 times greater than chlorine and much, much greater than alcohol. Some say bacteria is embedded in the briar of smoked pipes. Alcohol won't destroy it. Ozone absolutely does.

If you have pipes that stink, have bought estate pipes that stink or may contain bacteria, want to sell pipes that have no odors, or have changed tobaccos and just want to get rid of the smell of the old stuff in your favorite pipe, send them to me. I will place them in my Ozone chamber for 36 to 48 hours and get rid of any and all odors and deeply embedded bacteria._

You might get a little peace of mind as far as eliminating any mold in the briar by sending it to him.


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## bigd618 (Dec 10, 2009)

Awesome! Thanks for the info.


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## Parte_Cascos (Feb 12, 2010)

Hi there, newbie in pipe smoking for this bands ... 

Im from Portugal and i received in christmas my first pipe and tobacco. It is a Peterson of Dublin (i cant put images here yet) and the tobacco is Cherry Ambrosia mixture from Mac Baren. 

I do not like so much the tobacco and i would like to know what kind of tobacco it fits on this pipe. Aromatics what brands ? Online Shops in europe to buy it ?

Sorry for so many questions but im new in this kind of stuff ... 

Thanks !!!


----------



## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

Parte_Cascos said:


> Hi there, newbie in pipe smoking for this bands ...
> 
> Im from Portugal and i received in christmas my first pipe and tobacco. It is a Peterson of Dublin (i cant put images here yet) and the tobacco is Cherry Ambrosia mixture from Mac Baren.
> 
> ...


I don't think I'd like something called "Cherry Ambrosia," either. 
Try something that tastes like tobacco.

Welcome to the forum.


----------



## Parte_Cascos (Feb 12, 2010)

Hermit said:


> I don't think I'd like something called "Cherry Ambrosia," either.
> Try something that tastes like tobacco.
> 
> Welcome to the forum.


Hi there,

Thanks for the reply .. I cant put here links yet because i dont have 30 posts but go to tobacco review and the tobacco is there ... Search for brand -> mac baren -> its the number 7

Chears !!


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## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

Parte_Cascos said:


> Hi there,
> 
> Thanks for the reply .. I cant put here links yet because i dont have 30 posts but go to tobacco review and the tobacco is there ... Search for brand -> mac baren -> its the number 7
> 
> Chears !!


Parte,

Try to find a forum member here named Requiem. He also lives in Portugal and can help you with stores, tobacco selection, and anything else you may have questions about.

WWhermit
ipe:


----------



## Parte_Cascos (Feb 12, 2010)

WWhermit said:


> Parte,
> 
> Try to find a forum member here named Requiem.  He also lives in Portugal and can help you with stores, tobacco selection, and anything else you may have questions about.
> 
> ...


WWhermit thanks for the help but explain me something ... Here in the forum cant i send private messages to the users ?

If i could i will send him a pm and exchange mail with him it is easier ...


----------



## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

Parte_Cascos said:


> WWhermit thanks for the help but explain me something ... Here in the forum cant i send private messages to the users ?
> 
> If i could i will send him a pm and exchange mail with him it is easier ...


For PM messages, I believe you need 30 posts and 30 days on the forum. I'll send him a PM with your info to see if he can get in contact with you.

WWhermit
ipe:


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## Requiem (Dec 6, 2008)

Olá, Parte Cascos, bem-vindo ao forum.

Vou escrever o resto da mensagem em inglês, para que todos percebam.

In Portugal, the best tobaccos you can get from any "tabacaria" are St. Bruno, MacBaren Scottish Mixture, MacBaren Virginia nº1 and Amphora Full Aroma (red pouch) which cost about €6 to €7. 
Tinned tobaccos can only be found in a few places, being the stores "Vicios Urbanos" one of them. However, tin's selection is very poor (usually only Peterson and Erinmore Flake) and prices very high (about €22 for a 50g. tin).

Our best sources are british online shops (I will provide a few links) and especially shops in Spain. 
Once a year I go to a great store in Tui - Galicia, not very far from you, just to buy tobaccos. It's called Estanco Maria Llourdes and it's at Avenida de Portugal, near a gas station. Right at the entrance of Tui if you cross the border by the old bridge at Valencia. The tin selection is very good (Dunhill, Peterson, Samuel Gawith, MacBaren, Capstan, Davidoff,...) and prices are around € 7.

Here's some links to UK shops:

http://www.uktobacco.com/
http://www.smoke.co.uk/
http://www.cigar-connoisseur.co.uk/

My advice is: buy your pipes from the UK and your tinned tobaccos from Spain. If you want to go buy some tobaccos right away, get any of the ones I mentioned above. St. Bruno is the strongest and one of my favorites, Virginia nº1 is a typical plain virginia with some natural sweetness, Scottish Mixture is also good and Amphora Full Aroma is the best quality aromatic around (don´t worry, as Full Aroma is not a very suitable name, the tobacco is not a obnoxious aromatic, you can still taste the mild tobaccos).

Also, send me an e-mail to requiem76(at)gmail, tell me a little about your smoking habits, the type of tobaccos you would like to try and I will provide you with a few samples.

Um abraço,
Gustavo


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## Parte_Cascos (Feb 12, 2010)

WWhermit said:


> For PM messages, I believe you need 30 posts and 30 days on the forum. I'll send him a PM with your info to see if he can get in contact with you.
> 
> WWhermit
> ipe:


WWhermit thanks a lot you were very helpful :clap2:

Thanks !!!

ipe:


----------



## Parte_Cascos (Feb 12, 2010)

Requiem said:


> Olá, Parte Cascos, bem-vindo ao forum.
> Vou-te enviar uma pm.


Requiem fico á espera . É que não posso mesmo fazer quase nada aqui no fórum nem enviar pm´s posso senão já te tinha enviado o meu e-mail.

Eu sei que existe um clube cachimbo portugal mas aquilo pareceu-me muito restrito e reservado somente a associados.

O meu "problema" é que iniciei agora a minha actividade como fumador de cachimbo. Nunca fui grande fumador mas sempre tive esta paixão pelo cachimbo não sei porque até ...

Tenho um Peterson of Dublin que me foi oferecido no natal mas provavelmente não iniciei no tabaco correcto (Cherry Ambrosia Mixture - Mac Baren).

Bem, e mais não falo que senão ainda me expulsam daqui por estar a falar português.

Abraço !!!


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## Requiem (Dec 6, 2008)

Parte_Cascos said:


> Requiem fico á espera . É que não posso mesmo fazer quase nada aqui no fórum nem enviar pm´s posso senão já te tinha enviado o meu e-mail.
> 
> Eu sei que existe um clube cachimbo portugal mas aquilo pareceu-me muito restrito e reservado somente a associados.
> 
> ...


Volta ao meu post acima e lê com atenção. 
Depois, envia-me um e-mail.

Abraço


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## Parte_Cascos (Feb 12, 2010)

Requiem said:


> Volta ao meu post acima e lê com atenção.
> Depois, envia-me um e-mail.
> 
> Abraço


Mas porque ? Já envias-te PM ? É que não tenho nada aqui ... :S


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## Requiem (Dec 6, 2008)

Parte_Cascos said:


> Mas porque ? Já envias-te PM ? É que não tenho nada aqui ... :S


Afinal, parece-me que também não podes receber pm's... editei o meu post acima e já lá encontras alguma informação. Depois, envia-me mail.

Sorry guys.


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## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

Parte_Cascos said:


> WWhermit thanks a lot you were very helpful :clap2:
> 
> Thanks !!!
> 
> ipe:


Just happy to see we could provide you with the help you wanted.

Requiem is a treasured member of Puff, and will not steer you wrong with his advice. A great man, and valued member of the forums.

Thanks Requiem!

WWhermit
ipe:


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## Requiem (Dec 6, 2008)

WWhermit said:


> Just happy to see we could provide you with the help you wanted.
> 
> Requiem is a treasured member of Puff, and will not steer you wrong with his advice. A great man, and valued member of the forums.
> 
> ...


Thank you, Sir. :yo:


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## Parte_Cascos (Feb 12, 2010)

WWhermit said:


> Just happy to see we could provide you with the help you wanted.
> 
> Requiem is a treasured member of Puff, and will not steer you wrong with his advice. A great man, and valued member of the forums.
> 
> ...


Yes , indeed he is  ... Thanks again to both of you 
:thumb:


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## Nicolas J. Pug (Apr 21, 2009)

I have a question regarding cloying. A few months ago, several of my favorite blends went completely south on me, over a span of about a week. They were all English/ Balkan style, contained latakia, had dedicated pipes, and were all from the same maker. Since then, it's been Va and VaPer exclusively.

Will my taste for these blends return? Any chance of this happening to the tobacs I still like?

Any thoughts or experiences would be welcome.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Had a headcold or allergy lately?


----------



## Nicolas J. Pug (Apr 21, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> Had a headcold or allergy lately?


Nothing I recall around that time.

I went from not enjoying those blends as much as I once had, to not wanting them at all, in a span of about a week.

Maybe I subconsciously decided I just liked Vas and VaPers better.


----------



## drastic_quench (Sep 12, 2008)

Will straight burley tobaccos like Solani ABF ghost a pure VA-designated pipe with a burley flavor? And as far as va/bur blends, should they have their own pipe?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Other than those that have a heavy casing, I've not noticed any Burley ghost any of my pipes.


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## beefcakeb0 (Feb 16, 2010)

Is it bad to not want to patronize the local baccy shop?


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Nicolas J. Pug said:


> ...Maybe I subconsciously decided I just liked Vas and VaPers better.


Maybe. You wouldn't be the first. That, or your pipes need a good cleaning. Or maybe you have that famous palate fatigue people keep talking about. :juggle:


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## Nicolas J. Pug (Apr 21, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> Maybe. You wouldn't be the first. That, or your pipes need a good cleaning. Or maybe you have that famous palate fatigue people keep talking about. :juggle:


I think it's me. I keep my cakes manicured, and salt my pipes every 25-30 bowls (learned that trick here). Seems enough in this dry climate.

I have about a dozen tins of the affected blends. I'll check back in on them in the future and see. If it's still a no-go, maybe someone will offer them a good home.

Thank you for the comments.


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## drastic_quench (Sep 12, 2008)

Nicolas J. Pug said:


> I think it's me. I keep my cakes manicured, and salt my pipes every 25-30 bowls (learned that trick here). Seems enough in this dry climate.
> 
> I have about a dozen tins of the affected blends. I'll check back in on them in the future and see. If it's still a no-go, maybe someone will offer them a good home.
> 
> Thank you for the comments.


Hmm. What are you looking to part with?


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## Nicolas J. Pug (Apr 21, 2009)

drastic_quench said:


> Hmm. What are you looking to part with?


Westminster, Blackpoint, two tins of SL, and a couple of others. I'm away from my celler right now, but I can inventory tomorrow. About a dozen total, unopened. Most, I've had 6 months to a year.


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## Davetopay (Jan 19, 2008)

drastic_quench said:


> Will straight burley tobaccos like Solani ABF ghost a pure VA-designated pipe with a burley flavor? And as far as va/bur blends, should they have their own pipe?


Not an issue I have seen. I actually keep a tin of ABF on hand as a "break in baccy" for new pipes. It helps start up a good even, fine cake from the first puff and isn't ghosty.


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## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

Just picked up some Peterson's Perfect Plug and I'm a bit unsure how to attack this beast. Should I slice, dry, and rub or should I cube cut it? This is my first experience with plug tobacco.


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## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

Pugsley said:


> Just picked up some Peterson's Perfect Plug and I'm a bit unsure how to attack this beast. Should I slice, dry, and rub or should I cube cut it? This is my first experience with plug tobacco.


I would start with slice, dry, and rub, until you get to know the moisture content of that particular tobacco. Plugs can be a tricky sort, and cubes will retain moisture more than slices will.

Just my opinion, YMMV.

WWhermit
ipe:


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

drastic_quench said:


> Hmm. What are you looking to part with?


Buzzards are quickly circling the carcass.

I'll take the SL!


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Nicolas J. Pug said:


> I have a question regarding cloying. A few months ago, several of my favorite blends went completely south on me, over a span of about a week. They were all English/ Balkan style, contained latakia, had dedicated pipes, and were all from the same maker. Since then, it's been Va and VaPer exclusively.
> 
> Will my taste for these blends return? Any chance of this happening to the tobacs I still like?
> 
> Any thoughts or experiences would be welcome.


*The taste might return but this phenomenon of turning away from latakia blends is pretty common. *



beefcakeb0 said:


> Is it bad to not want to patronize the local baccy shop?


Not at all. Do what you like.


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## Boom (Mar 16, 2008)

What is the best way to remove the pre-carbon coating on a bowl.... I think this may be the cause of it tasting bitter with this particular pipe.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Fine grit sandpaper will get it out, just be very careful not to damage the rim. Sandpaper on a small wooden dowel works pretty well. I think however that the best way is simply to smoke the coating away. It's there to give a developing cake something to adhere to and the taste will deminish after a few bowls are smoked.


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## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

I have several Savinelli pipes that can be used with a filter or the adapter they come with. I rarely use filters. Is there any reason I should use the adapter if I'm not using a filter? The reason I ask is because a couple of them won't pass a pipe cleaner to the bowl with the adapter in them but it passes fine without the adapter.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Well I have a Svendborg 9mm filter pipe which I smoke without a filter or adapter, and it does not make it gurgle (in fact the pipe has never gurgled once). Not the same system, but I assume it's close (I don't have any Savinellis).


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## plexiprs (Nov 18, 2005)

Pugsley said:


> I have several Savinelli pipes that can be used with a filter or the adapter they come with. I rarely use filters. Is there any reason I should use the adapter if I'm not using a filter? The reason I ask is because a couple of them won't pass a pipe cleaner to the bowl with the adapter in them but it passes fine without the adapter.


I've more than a bunch of Sav's and now, never use filter or adapter in any of them. Only change has been a change in the air flow (for the better), but the lack of either does not make for more gurgle. If it gurgled with filter or adapter it was more likely NOT to gurgle with nothing in the way. Experiment, you might like the change!


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## Uelrindru (Mar 16, 2010)

Hey everyone, I just wanted to wieght in on the resting pipe length. I found a link, of course lost now, that said you should rest your pipe until the scent from the bowl is dry and sweet. It's worked like a charm for helping me break in my new peterson and since you're waiting for the moisture to dry up it only makes sense.


----------



## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Uelrindru said:


> Hey everyone, I just wanted to wieght in on the resting pipe length. I found a link, of course lost now, that said you should rest your pipe until the scent from the bowl is dry and sweet. It's worked like a charm for helping me break in my new peterson and since you're waiting for the moisture to dry up it only makes sense.


That's a good rule of thumb.

I usually just let mine rest a minimum of 24 hrs between smokes, never had a problem.


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## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

Hey guys, new to pipes (about 6 months) and just really gotten into it in the last month. Very informative thread, thank you.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

SmoknTaz said:


> Hey guys, new to pipes (about 6 months) and just really gotten into it in the last month. Very informative thread, thank you.


Welcome to the pipe side Ken! A bunch of us here started out smoking cigars, so you're definately not alone. I myself smoked cigars for 5 years before I got serious about pipes.


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## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

commonsenseman said:


> Welcome to the pipe side Ken! A bunch of us here started out smoking cigars, so you're definately not alone. I myself smoked cigars for 5 years before I got serious about pipes.


Thanks Jeff. I've been smoking cigars for about 2 years and have found the slope on the pipe side is much steeper! This is my second go at it, first time being back in HS and not knowing squat and had the patience of a gnat. Now that I've rediscovered the pipe I feel like a little kid on Christmas morning. So much to learn and experience and I'm loving every minute of the journey.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

SmoknTaz said:


> Thanks Jeff. I've been smoking cigars for about 2 years and have found the slope on the pipe side is much steeper! This is my second go at it, first time being back in HS and not knowing squat and had the patience of a gnat. Now that I've rediscovered the pipe I feel like a little kid on Christmas morning. So much to learn and experience and I'm loving every minute of the journey.


Yup it's quite dangerous, says the guy who bought 18 lbs of tobacco in a year.


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## MattBrooklyn (Mar 22, 2010)

Davetopay said:


> Not an issue I have seen. I actually keep a tin of ABF on hand as a "break in baccy" for new pipes. It helps start up a good even, fine cake from the first puff and isn't ghosty.


Would be interested in hearing if anybody else has a favorite "break in baccy"


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

MattBrooklyn said:


> Would be interested in hearing if anybody else has a favorite "break in baccy"


Drug Store Burleys work great, I use Carter Hall or Velvet usually.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

MattBrooklyn said:


> Would be interested in hearing if anybody else has a favorite "break in baccy"


Theories are:

1. smoke burley (like Carter Hall) - it burns cool, cakes fast; or
2. smoke anything except burley - burley cake is kind of fragile; or
3. use whatever you plan to dedicate the pipe for - which, unless you're a pipe mindreader, you can't know until you try a few things in the pipe.

I am not a pipe mindreader no matter how hard I try. My favorite break-in tobak is VaPer. I usually burn enough in a new-to-me pipe to get it figured out. If it just feels too hot (making an allowance for thin- or complete absence of cake) or smokes too uninspired I move to an oriental; it that fails I move to english; if that fails I move to burley or an aromatic (assuming I need such a pipe). If I need no burley or aromatic pipe and everything else I tried has failed to impress me I'll put the pipe on ebay titled,

"Lightly Smoked! Excellent Condition!"










"Sanitized for your Protection!"

Hope this is helpful.


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## MattBrooklyn (Mar 22, 2010)

just came across a savinelli bulldog on ebay (can't post link, post count isn't high enough yet) with the following description:

'The stem is a little loose, it move a little easier than it should, so it needs to be tightened up just a hair.'

How does a stem get tightened? Is it worth buying a pipe with a loose stem?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Often times just smoking it will tighten it up enough. A briar will sometimes get a little loose if unsmoked for a long time. If smoking it doesn't do the trick, try some beeswax and it should be fine. Otherwise, it'll need to be sent in for a professional repair job. Even if this is the case it isn't too terribly expensive to have a stem tightened or even get a completely new stem made for it.


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## plumby (Mar 29, 2010)

Hi,

I recently inherited an example of this pipe: cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320481755178]VINTAGE DR PLUMB, FLAT-GRIP 2515, ESTATE PIPE, [email protected]@K. su eBay.it Pipes, Tobacciana Smoking, Collectables[/url], from my grandfather who hadnt smoked it for forty years. I was wondering if I can consider it burned in? Well afterwards I ran down to Segar and Snuff tobacconists and purchased some very loose and dry tobacco, part virginia and also part pale yellow flake.

I have had very little success with smoking it! It doesnt stay alight as the flame doesnt catch between tobaccos, and after the first smoke assisted by a strong match lighting, the smoke just kind of dies a bit and I can summon a few wisps before a relight is needed.

Please help!!!


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

plumby said:


> Hi,
> 
> I recently inherited an example of this pipe: cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320481755178]VINTAGE DR PLUMB, FLAT-GRIP 2515, ESTATE PIPE, [email protected]@K. su eBay.it Pipes, Tobacciana Smoking, Collectables[/url], from my grandfather who hadnt smoked it for forty years. I was wondering if I can consider it burned in? Well afterwards I ran down to Segar and Snuff tobacconists and purchased some very loose and dry tobacco, part virginia and also part pale yellow flake.
> 
> ...


Welcome to the pipe! Assuming pop-pop took care of the pipe, it should be just fine. Ensure your baccy is not too wet, most B&M's sell goopy drippy stuff. Lay some out on the desktop and let it get drier (not to the point of crumbling into dust, but try different levels of moisture). Follow instructions for filling in other threads around here, not too loose, not too tight.


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## plumby (Mar 29, 2010)

RJpuffs said:


> Welcome to the pipe! Assuming pop-pop took care of the pipe, it should be just fine. Ensure your baccy is not too wet, most B&M's sell goopy drippy stuff. Lay some out on the desktop and let it get drier (not to the point of crumbling into dust, but try different levels of moisture). Follow instructions for filling in other threads around here, not too loose, not too tight.


Will do! The thing is that the tobacco is not wet at all and i thought that thats the reason why it just burns up quickly. How can I get the leaves I lit with a match to light other leaves? By packing tightly?

Thanks!

p.s. what do we think of the pipe?


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

plumby said:


> Will do! The thing is that the tobacco is not wet at all and i thought that thats the reason why it just burns up quickly. How can I get the leaves I lit with a match to light other leaves? By packing tightly?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> p.s. what do we think of the pipe?


I couldn't click the link and was too lazy to copy/paste the text 

Use a proper filling technique (don't "pack" it). See other threads for the three step (aka father/mother/daughter) dance and the Frank Fill.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

A question gentlemen, I'm planning to order stuff from 4Noggins. They seem to have good prices on MM corn cobs and they also have Carter Hall and Sugar Barrel, both of which have good reviews from members. A good beginners' combination I think. Now, the thing is, I'll be ordering from Pakistan. Could any of the members offer a feedback/mini-review of their customer service, *especially* any non-US customers of 4Noggins?

Thanks.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jogi said:


> ... Could any of the members offer a feedback/mini-review of their customer service, *especially* any non-US customers of 4Noggins?
> 
> Thanks.


As a N. American I believe: "They always do what they say."

For this reason I suggest you email them directly and ask them how they handle non-domestic orders. I think you can expect an accurate answer from the management.

:tea:


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

MattBrooklyn said:


> ...How does a stem get tightened?


As Dstur' said, "smoke it" - that almost always resolves loose stems.

I just snugged up a loose stem with some beeswax the other day. The pipe had been unsmoked for a few months and the bowl was loose enough to fall off the stem under its own weight. I heated some beeswax with a lighter and let two drops fall on the tenon, rubbed it around a bit and stuck it in the pipe. No worries 3-seconds later. As it once again gets used regularly it'll snug up and stay snug.

Some people suggest a swipe of clear fingermail polish around a tenon, let it dry hard, and then reinsert it into the pipe. I never got around to that - smoking (or a bit of beeswax) always does the trick.


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## MattBrooklyn (Mar 22, 2010)

...speaking of which...

i recently won a different auction for a peterson kapmeer, but when i recieved it the stem was extremely tight in the shank. so tight that when i first tried to remove it using the twist-and-gently-pull method, a big chip fell out of the shank. 

it's still smokeable even with the chip taken out, and the chip even stays put once put back in. anyway, i haven't tried to remove the stem since for fear of doing further damage.

anyone know of a way to loosen the thing up? also, i was thinking about applying a small amount of wood glue to reattach the chip that came out of the shank, any reason you guys think that's a bad idea?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

you can loosen the stem by putting the pipe in the freezer for a bit.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Commander Quan said:


> you can loosen the stem by putting the pipe in the freezer for a bit.


This works well, however be sure the pipe is 101% dry or the freezing moisture will expand and possibly cause damage. Just don't smoke the pipe for a few days prior to freezing.


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## Lockjaw Adonis (Apr 9, 2010)

I just found my fave tobacco after four years of looking, and got my pipes back in action.
Is the Erica pipe a Peterson reject?
My Alpha needs some stem work, too loose and no one around here wants to touch it. The shop I bought it at had closed after I got it. It smokes fine but it bugs the crap out of me. Who should I go to?
What happened to Alpha?


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## MattBrooklyn (Mar 22, 2010)

DSturg369 said:


> This works well, however be sure the pipe is 101% dry or the freezing moisture will expand and possibly cause damage. Just don't smoke the pipe for a few days prior to freezing.


great advice, thanks guys.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Commander Quan said:


> you can loosen the stem by putting the pipe in the freezer for a bit.





DSturg369 said:


> This works well, however be sure the pipe is 101% dry or the freezing moisture will expand and possibly cause damage. Just don't smoke the pipe for a few days prior to freezing.


I have found that even putting it in the fridge for a few minutes is enough, thereby getting rid of any freeze-danger.


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## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

What's the reason with leather wrapped pipes? Added protection for the bowl?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Not an expert on the subject but what I've picked up is that the leather is for added decoration and is also used on pipes where the briar has had fills and blemishes.


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## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

Thanks Dale, I like the natural look over the leather, blemish and all. Just adds to the character of the pipe IMHO.


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## Jojah17 (Mar 30, 2010)

Hey Pipe Guys!

I really like the look of short, chubby pipes. Decent-sized/big bowls with short shanks and wide stems just look cool to me. Anybody know of a decent stubby pipe for under $60 bucks? Been looking around and haven't really found any that suits my fancy. Thanks!


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Jojah17 said:


> Hey Pipe Guys!
> 
> I really like the look of short, chubby pipes. Decent-sized/big bowls with short shanks and wide stems just look cool to me. Anybody know of a decent stubby pipe for under $60 bucks? Been looking around and haven't really found any that suits my fancy. Thanks!


Here's one I just bought. $48.

Savinelli 320ks Venezia


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## Jojah17 (Mar 30, 2010)

That's sweet! Happen to get it from an etailer?


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Jojah17 said:


> That's sweet! Happen to get it from an etailer?


I did. The whole Venezia series is about $50. The finish may not be as pretty as some other pipes, but they sure smoke well!


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## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

This one was 49.60.


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## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

This Sav line might also meet your requirements.

Savinelli Short Pipes


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## Jojah17 (Mar 30, 2010)

Thanks for all the responses guys. Forgive my ignorance but who makes that rusticated one posted above? I know I've seen the crown stamp before but cannot recall where? Also how does it smoke? Thanks for helping a total nps!


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Jojah17 said:


> Thanks for all the responses guys. Forgive my ignorance but who makes that rusticated one posted above? I know I've seen the crown stamp before but cannot recall where? Also how does it smoke? Thanks for helping a total nps!


Looks like a Savinelli Baronet Bruyere, probably 320ex.


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## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

Jack Straw said:


> Looks like a Savinelli Baronet Bruyere, probably 320ex.


Lucky guess.


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## Jojah17 (Mar 30, 2010)

I really like that Sav and after reading a bunch of threads on the Baronet line I think I'm sold. Now just need to find somebody who's got one in stock. Thanks for all the help again guys!


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## Jojah17 (Mar 30, 2010)

Sorry to be such a pest but does anybody have a clue where I might find one of the Sav Baronet 320ex's ? I've looked around a good bit and everyone seems to be out of stock. Is this pretty standard fair for pipe purchasing? 

On a side note, almost bought a Boswell this morning but had to do something work related and checking back 15 mins later the pipe I wanted (along with the majority of the others) was already sold. Thats pretty amazing business- they must make a helluva pipe for the money.


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## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

Jojah17 said:


> Sorry to be such a pest but does anybody have a clue where I might find one of the Sav Baronet 320ex's ? I've looked around a good bit and everyone seems to be out of stock. Is this pretty standard fair for pipe purchasing?
> 
> On a side note, almost bought a Boswell this morning but had to do something work related and checking back 15 mins later the pipe I wanted (along with the majority of the others) was already sold. Thats pretty amazing business- they must make a helluva pipe for the money.


I don't know where you can get a 320 at this time, but smokingpipes.com uploads new Savs usually once a week or so, on either Mondays or Thursdays I believe. They'll send you an email notification about the updates if you want. You might also want to call 4noggins or pipes&cigars as their websites are not always up to date on the pipes they have. I believe I read a post recently where Rich at 4noggins mentioned he has quite a few pipes that haven't made it on his website yet.

And you're right, the Boswell pipes disappear faster than 8oz bags of Stonehaven.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Here's a nice 320 in the professor finish, which is a bit more expensive:

Savinelli Professor Rustic #320 - savprz320

Very good looking pipe.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Or a trevi

Savinelli Trevi Rustic Pipe #320 - savtrr320

cupojoes has other 320's, I think those two are the best looking though. Particularly the professor.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

It looks like pipesandcigars has a 320 in the following styles:

-Pisa
-Spring
-Tevere
-Trevi
-Tundra


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

If you really like the baronet bruyere finish and want the extra large size pipe (the EX means the pipe is frickin huge), you can probably talk to any savinelli dealer and they can order it for you.


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## Jojah17 (Mar 30, 2010)

Geeze, you guys certainly are quick and helpful. Thanks a ton- I appreciate all the links and info. Yeah, I am searching for the EX size and really like the baronet finish. I only found 2 other EX's and they were the Hercules and the Champagne line and Im not crazy about either. I think that Tundra is pretty sweet though. 

I sent a couple emails off and Bob from pipesandcigars told me he would order some within a day so hopefully that pans out. Thanks for all the help again!


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## Uelrindru (Mar 16, 2010)

Yeah the EX is huge, I got one and since I have big hands didn't realize just how big until I loaded up some baccy and pushed it down with my thumb. I'm lucky to get my pointer into most pipes. You can smoke that pipe for two or three hours easy. It's my day off pipe


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Yeah the first time I saw one in real life I did a double take. They are gigantic!


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Uelrindru said:


> Yeah the EX is huge...


Yes they are. Most Sav EX's are not a comfortable everyday bowl for many people under 6' 10", I would guess. Great smoking pipes, thay are, but big.


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## Uelrindru (Mar 16, 2010)

To give you an idea on how big the EX is it's almost as tall as my 3rd generation Ipod nano and the bowl is WIDER than a quarter's diameter. The part you put the tobacco in not the whole bowl.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

I've been searching around the web to find sellers who'd ship to Pakistan. Luckily, there are many who will. Here's something I don't understand. Two different sellers, both are using USPS 1st Class International Mail to deliver the order. Seller A is charging $17 shipping for an order of 4 corn cobs, seller B is charging $7 shipping on the same order. What am I missing here? :dunno: :dunno:


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jogi said:


> I've been searching around the web to find sellers who'd ship to Pakistan. Luckily, there are many who will. Here's something I don't understand. Two different sellers, both are using USPS 1st Class International Mail to deliver the order. Seller A is charging $17 shipping for an order of 4 corn cobs, seller B is charging $7 shipping on the same order. What am I missing here? :dunno: :dunno:


Many sellers do not charge actual postage cost.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> Many sellers do not charge actual postage cost.


Forgive my ignorance, but then how will the shipping thing work? Since It's an international order, I'm *guessing* $17's the actual cost. How come seller B charges less for the same package, while claiming to use the same delivery service? Please do explain a bit...


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## Brinson (Oct 28, 2007)

Because sellers choose what they want to charge you. Sure it costs them $5 or $7, but if they can get away charging you $17, that's pure profit. Its not just shipping, its shipping and *handling*. They can charge whatever the hell they want for handling.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Thanks Brinson...


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## 4noggins (May 9, 2009)

Perhaps Seller B did not realize you were in Pakastan and quoted shipping rates for within the USA???? Is that possible??? It might have been an honest mistake??

Rich


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## CTpipe (Apr 15, 2010)

Here's a ?, just bought a new pipe on ebay. Its a short "pot" style pipe made in england. Much larger bowl than my grabow briar and cob and a shorter shank and stem. Popped in half a bowl of heavy english from my B&M and noticed right away it takes a lot more effort to keep it cool than my other pipes. Is this just the nature of this build of pipe? If so, are there types/styles of tobacco that would benefit from this or are better to smoke in this type of pipe? Thanks!


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## CTpipe (Apr 15, 2010)

CTpipe said:


> Here's a ?, just bought a new pipe on ebay. Its a short "pot" style pipe made in england. Much larger bowl than my grabow briar and cob and a shorter shank and stem. Popped in half a bowl of heavy english from my B&M and noticed right away it takes a lot more effort to keep it cool than my other pipes. Is this just the nature of this build of pipe? If so, are there types/styles of tobacco that would benefit from this or are better to smoke in this type of pipe? Thanks!


forgot to add, i think the airway through the stem and shank are larger than my other two as well as I sometimes get a piece of baccy in my mouth if I puff too hard


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

4noggins said:


> Perhaps Seller B did not realize you were in Pakastan and quoted shipping rates for within the USA???? Is that possible??? It might have been an honest mistake??
> 
> Rich


That could very well be the case. Maybe the website didn't or couldn't update the shipping rates when I tried to change the destination country. :dunno:


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## DarkConfidant (Apr 21, 2010)

What exactly is a "Freehand" pipe? Any explanation?


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

CTpipe said:


> ... sometimes get a piece of baccy in my mouth if I puff too hard


That problem disappears as your filling technique improves over time.

Further to the Got Hot Pot... this isn't usually a function of the shape but, more likely, a function of your smoking/filling technique, the character of the briar or merely the absence of an insulating cake.

Since you cannot control the nature of wood, control that which you can. Fill the pipe evenly - don't PACK it - and insure the filled pipe affords an easy draw and fires up with a complete, even light across the top; smoke slower; and see what happens over time as the pipe develops some cake. I've had many hot-smoking pipes. With the benefit of hindsight I'd say all but two or three were because of by bad smoking technique, absence of cake or both.


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## BigRay023 (Apr 11, 2009)

do you have to give meers and cobbs a days brake like briars or can you go to town on them?


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

Here's my opinion on MM's. Since they're less than $10 each, I'd say go to town! Also they tend to absorb less moisture than briars so they dry out faster.

edit: Ah, but you were asking about both meers and cobs. I just put them together and thought of Missouri Meerschaums. Yikes.

Cobs: see comment above.
Meers: Everything I've read and experienced says that you can go to town with them. They dry out quite fast.


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## BigRay023 (Apr 11, 2009)

Cool. And while I have somones attention. I pulled the filter out of one and havent smoked the other yet. Should I pull the other filter back or put the one back in. They are a couple of cheapo MM's i got from RiteAid (drug store)


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

BigRay023 said:


> Cool. And while I have somones attention. I pulled the filter out of one and havent smoked the other yet. Should I pull the other filter back or put the one back in. They are a couple of cheapo MM's i got from RiteAid (drug store)


I throw my filters out of my MM's. Don't like them. They seem to me to dampen the flavor of the smoke.


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## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

If the filters are new/clean then use them. Some forgo the filter completely.


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## BigRay023 (Apr 11, 2009)

Thanks for the help Fellas. Will leave the filter out of the one and try one in the other till it gets dirty and toss it.


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## beetlebriar (Apr 24, 2010)

how do you guys feel about bowl coatings?


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

beetlebriar said:


> how do you guys feel about bowl coatings?


Well, it's a carbon coating that's intended to help the Cake "stick" initially, thereby reducing the break-in process. I have no idea if it actually helps though, break-in always seems to take me a minimum of 1-2 weeks anyway. With or without the coating, make sure you smoke it cool & dry until you get a nice even Cake forming. If that means smoking 1/2 bowls until it forms, so be it.


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## beetlebriar (Apr 24, 2010)

commonsenseman said:


> Well, it's a carbon coating that's intended to help the Cake "stick" initially, thereby reducing the break-in process. I have no idea if it actually helps though, break-in always seems to take me a minimum of 1-2 weeks anyway. With or without the coating, make sure you smoke it cool & dry until you get a nice even Cake forming. If that means smoking 1/2 bowls until it forms, so be it.


 Thanks Commonsenseman, I've had some pipes that the bowl coating made it even harder to break in and I just wanted to get another opinion on the matter.:rockon:


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

beetlebriar said:


> Thanks Commonsenseman, I've had some pipes that the bowl coating made it even harder to break in and I just wanted to get another opinion on the matter.:rockon:


I think the pipe maker is adding a layer of idiot-proofing with the carbonizationismistic stuff. Some brothers take a brand new pipe, jam a half ounce of the ooziest stickiest baccy into it, and proceed to suck down like a, well, something. The risk of a bowl burnout is highest when the inside of the bowl is virgin. So I assume coating it with a protective carbon goop will reduce the chance of that pipe coming back for replacement. Personally, I don't care one way or the other. Some guys hate it and sand it off, some guys don't buy a pipe unless is soot covered on the innards. To each his own (or her own). It does impart an icky taste for a couple of bowls, but it goes away soon enough. I've had pipes with and without, and there was absolutely no difference in cake behavior IMHO.


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## beetlebriar (Apr 24, 2010)

RJpuffs said:


> I think the pipe maker is adding a layer of idiot-proofing with the carbonizationismistic stuff. Some brothers take a brand new pipe, jam a half ounce of the ooziest stickiest baccy into it, and proceed to suck down like a, well, something. The risk of a bowl burnout is highest when the inside of the bowl is virgin. So I assume coating it with a protective carbon goop will reduce the chance of that pipe coming back for replacement. Personally, I don't care one way or the other. Some guys hate it and sand it off, some guys don't buy a pipe unless is soot covered on the innards. To each his own (or her own). It does impart an icky taste for a couple of bowls, but it goes away soon enough. I've had pipes with and without, and there was absolutely no difference in cake behavior IMHO.


Thank You for your input. I never thought of it as idiot proofing but I think your right. Too many people either don't or refuse to break a pipe in right. I guess a bowl coating would be just a little piece of insurance. Thanks! :rockon:


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

RJpuffs said:


> ...Some brothers take a brand new pipe, jam a half ounce of the ooziest stickiest baccy into it, and proceed [like they're]...


I believe the expression you're looking for is, "... suck-starting a '66 Harley shovelhead with rusty pipes and a leaky headgasket." There is also the less evocative imagery of "...sucking a golf ball through a garden hose." While both carry a sexual connotation I think we're all on the same page.

I can't figure if coatings are made to hide defects in briar or help prevent burnouts regardless or briar condition. I have both kinds of pipes and, after a while, it's all the same. I just like the look of a clean, natural bore on a new pipe.


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

Mister Moo said:


> I believe the expression you're looking for is, "... suck-starting a '66 Harley shovelhead with rusty pipes and a leaky headgasket." There is also the less evocative imagery of "...sucking a golf ball through a garden hose." While both carry a sexual connotation I think we're all on the same page.
> 
> I can't figure if coatings are made to hide defects in briar or help prevent burnouts regardless or briar condition. I have both kinds of pipes and, after a while, it's all the same. I just like the look of a clean, natural bore on a new pipe.


... unless it's a Peterson, which often comes with varnish both outside and INSIDE the bowl, which needs a sanding to remove. I've had one Petey with carbon (no inside varnish, I scratch a bit off to check). The prior Petey had no carbon, but a glorious ruby red (Killarney?) stain on the inside which took some time to scrape off. Both broke in fine, although I did have to fix the drilling "issues" on both. I wouldn't buy another Peterson, they couldn't drill for oil in Texas.


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## ultramag (Aug 23, 2007)

Mister Moo said:


> I can't figure if coatings are made to hide defects in briar or help prevent burnouts regardless or briar condition. I have both kinds of pipes and, after a while, it's all the same. I just like the look of a clean, natural bore on a new pipe.


I think it just depends on the integrity and intent of the carver. I know I have argued with a supposedly reputable maker about getting a pipe with a clean bore on a group pipe and once the pipe was in hand it was easy to see why he would've liked to coat the bowl. I prefer a good clean bore as well. I like to see the quality of the briar inside and out.

All that being said, I do believe there are some makers that coat bowls because they feel it helps and/or to insure the pipe from burnout caused by a careless and inexperienced puffer.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

RJpuffs said:


> ... unless it's a Peterson...


Now THAT is the trooth. I have a Pete Harp with enough stain in the bowl to prevent forest fires.



ultramag said:


> I prefer a good clean bore as well. I like to see the quality of the briar inside and out.


And that's the way it is.


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## beetlebriar (Apr 24, 2010)

Well thank you all for your thoughts! I am a part time pipe maker of only a few months and I have heard good and bad things about bowl coatings. I just wanted to get a good feel on what good "Pipe men" thought of It. Thank you all once again!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
 So now how does everyone feel about outside coatings? Wax vs. shellac vs. lacquer. <o></o>
<o> </o>


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Shellac on a pipe? As Shakespeare said, " Double, double toil and trouble; Fire burn, and caldron bubble."


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## beetlebriar (Apr 24, 2010)

MarkC said:


> Shellac on a pipe? As Shakespeare said, " Double, double toil and trouble; Fire burn, and caldron bubble."


I do agree but there are a lot of high end pipe makers who use this product on their pipes. Some use a mixture of wax and shellac as well. If your pipe does not lose its luster in a few smokes It's either lacquer, shellac or shellac wax mix.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

One or two questions related to cobs, what exactly is *the* purpose of using pipe mud? protection of the pipe or filling up an unwanted space or pit etc.? Secondly, would you pipe-mud a cob with a narrow bowl like the Legend etc or only a large one like the General? Because as I see it, if it is meant to fill the gaps around the airway in the bowl (so that you don't get that dottle stuck in those little spaces), narrow-bowled cobs don't have that such gaps and won't need it... Thanks.


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## beefytee (Apr 16, 2009)

Escudo::

Rub it out, break it up, or fold and plug?


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

I do all three depending on mood.

For the shallac thing, many high end pipe makers do indeed use it on smooth pipes. Supposedly it helps the wax adhere better.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

beefytee said:


> Escudo: Rub it out, break it up, or fold and plug?


Yes.

Beware fold and plug and/or overfilling and over-tamping Escudo. It ships moist and it poofs up quite a bit as it warms in the bowl. You can plug up a pipe airtight with Escudo if you employ irrational tamp- or stuffing exuberance. This is especially easy to do when you fold and stuff.

I suggest starting with a fresh well rubbed flake until you figure the tamping and expansion characteristic of the moist product; rolled, folded and screwed-in flakes are like your graduation present. Rolled and screwed works well when the flake has dried out a good bit.


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## beefytee (Apr 16, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> Yes.
> 
> Beware fold and plug and/or overfilling and over-tamping Escudo. It ships moist and it poofs up quite a bit as it warms in the bowl. You can plug up a pipe airtight with Escudo if you employ irrational tamp- or stuffing exuberance. This is especially easy to do when you fold and stuff.
> 
> I suggest starting with a fresh well rubbed flake until you figure the tamping and expansion characteristic of the moist product; rolled, folded and screwed-in flakes are like your graduation present. Rolled and screwed works well when the flake has dried out a good bit.


Perfect, I always like the reasoning behind a recommendation.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

beefytee said:


> Perfect ... reasoning...


You would be the first to use those words ref. the wasteland that my near-10k posts constitute. This is a great day.

Thank you. :hug:

I am a vaper lover, a flake-preferrer and a regular Escudo sniffer. While Mad Hatter, rjpuffs, blaylock, IHT and dmkerr do a lot of the heavy lifting I will, just the same, still slip in "reasoning" every once in while. You know - in spite of myself.

I spent months not understanding how to employ flakes in general and Escudo in particular; it was frustrating to fail over and over with these products. The fact is, some flakes are relatively easy for a novice to smoke and some are a bit harder to figure. I think that Escudo, because of it's slightly hot burn, high moisture and dense compression, makes for a triple-whammy when you first explore it.

Smoking it well rubbed from the tin, I think, is the good, easy start. If you fill loosely, can get a good even starting burn and not plug up the airway you will begin to know the product quickly. It is certainly easier to start with half-bowls if your chamber is on the large side. An overly tight fill or too much tamp will cause you to draw on the pipe like you're suck-starting a Harley; this will be obvious, unpleasant and lends itself to mouth-fire and/or constant relights. Fill flakes, especially Escudo,reasonably and tamp judiciously until you are intimate with the character of the burn. Or not. For the longest time I certainly didn't. 

When it comes to roll/screw, dry a couple of flakes out where they'll bend and almost crack; screw them in but make sure they draw is quite unrestricted - you can tighten things down to suit with gentle tamps after a (recommended) charring light. Some loose rubbed out crumbs atop will help get that even starting burn although experience may release you from that practice after few tins.

Escudo is one of the all-time greats. Enjoy it!


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Jogi said:


> One or two questions related to cobs, what exactly is *the* purpose of using pipe mud? protection of the pipe or filling up an unwanted space or pit etc.? Secondly, would you pipe-mud a cob with a narrow bowl like the Legend etc or only a large one like the General? Because as I see it, if it is meant to fill the gaps around the airway in the bowl (so that you don't get that dottle stuck in those little spaces), narrow-bowled cobs don't have that such gaps and won't need it... Thanks.


:behindsofa:


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## Eirik (May 7, 2010)

Hi Jogi!
I'm a newbie but have been doing a lot of cob smoking the last year. I use honney/ash mud if there's a big gap in the bottom. I know that some coat the inside of their briar with honney to build cake faster. That make a more fragile cake(I've heard, not tried).

When I have been a bit careless with a new cob in the begining and burnt the walls in the bottom, then I use honey. Honey with some water on a Q-tip on the infected area, and let dry. The ashes from the next bowl will becom pipe mud. But be carefull with the honney, or else the cake will grow like cancer! I only got the regular cob size, with the cake it's so narrow that i have to use a Phillips-screw for a tamper. 

I'm going to order some bigger MM cobs some time pretty soon.

Hope this make sense and if not, trial and error is an affordable option when it comes to cobs.
Good luck!

COB RULES!:banana:


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## beefytee (Apr 16, 2009)

I'm looking for a really low nicotine smoke. 

I smoked camel filters and Marlboro Reds for 15 years and loved every second of it. But then, after just having the occasional cigar I became pretty sensitive to the nicotine. Even a cigar in the "medium" range would get my head spinning. This is not a feeling I like, so I want to keep it light on the nicotine. 

Does this force me into a certain world, or can I still taste the latakias, the burly's, the VA's, the Va/pers while keeping a head above water (i.e. not swimmy)


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jogi said:


> ...*the* purpose of using pipe mud? protection of the pipe or filling up an unwanted space or pit etc.?


yes.



> would you pipe-mud a cob with a narrow bowl like the Legend etc or only a large one like the General? Because as I see it, if it is meant to fill the gaps around the airway in the bowl (so that you don't get that dottle stuck in those little spaces), narrow-bowled cobs don't have that such gaps and won't need it... Thanks.


I use mud to raise low spots in high-drilled briars; to patch any suspicious spots in briar; or to extend the service of larger cobs by mudding/smoothing the interior. I don't squeeze it into small cobs.

Use only superior quality top-end cigar ash, by the way. If you don't smoke cigars or lack access to high-end cigar ash, send me $45 and I promise I will buy two or three absolutely superb sticks, smoke them and send you the ashes (postage paid). Anything for a pipe-smoking brother. Count on me.


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## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

Can someone tell me what these bowls will fit? I thought they were for a Falcon but when I got them I noticed the bottom is completely different.


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

Mister Moo said:


> ...
> If you don't smoke cigars or lack access to high-end cigar ash, send me $45 and I promise I will buy two or three absolutely superb sticks, smoke them and send you the ashes (postage paid). Anything for a pipe-smoking brother. Count on me.


:laugh::biglaugh:


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> yes.
> 
> ... If you don't smoke cigars or lack access to high-end cigar ash, send me $45 and I promise I will buy two or three absolutely superb sticks, smoke them and send you the ashes (postage paid). Anything for a pipe-smoking brother. Count on me.


... or get cobs for that $45 so that I don' have to worry about mud or no mud?? :cowboyic9:
But seriously, why premium cigar ash only?? because ash will impart taste to the smoke? Or "cheap" ash doesn't set better etc.?? Do tell.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

I'd imagine he uses premium cigar ash because the cigars he has to smoke to get the ash taste better.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> yes.
> If you don't smoke cigars or lack access to high-end cigar ash, send me $45 and I promise I will buy two or three absolutely superb sticks, smoke them and send you the ashes (postage paid). Anything for a pipe-smoking brother. Count on me.


Wow. You gotta love the way people are willing to sacrifice and help out each other around here!


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jack Straw said:


> ... because the cigars he has to smoke to get the ash taste better.


Yes, yes. Shameful self-serving creep that I am.

Jogi: pipe smokers generally agree cigar ash makes a tougher, stickier mud than pipe tobacco ash. I don't suppose it matters how great the cigars were, though.


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## Terrhor (May 14, 2010)

Here is a question for y'all. I've been smoking cob for almost a year on and off whenever it struck me. Now ive gotten a previously used briar pipe from a friend, but i lack a lot of selection in tobacco here. I like the aromatic blends, and anything that has a nice hefty kick to it, but i cant find anyone who ships to where I'm located. Know anyone who can ship to FPO,AP? 


One more. i was told that briar and meer pipes need to cool down and dry out before they are ready to be smoked again after a bowl. Is this true? How long does this take? Thanks!


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

Terrhor said:


> Here is a question for y'all. I've been smoking cob for almost a year on and off whenever it struck me. Now ive gotten a previously used briar pipe from a friend, but i lack a lot of selection in tobacco here. I like the aromatic blends, and anything that has a nice hefty kick to it, but i cant find anyone who ships to where I'm located. Know anyone who can ship to FPO,AP?
> 
> One more. i was told that briar and meer pipes need to cool down and dry out before they are ready to be smoked again after a bowl. Is this true? How long does this take? Thanks!


Have you tried emailing the etailers? Cup o' joes, Smokingpipes, pipesandcigars, 4noggins might be able to help you if you make a written request.


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## Hendu3270 (Jan 23, 2009)

Terrhor said:


> Here is a question for y'all. I've been smoking cob for almost a year on and off whenever it struck me. Now ive gotten a previously used briar pipe from a friend, but i lack a lot of selection in tobacco here. I like the aromatic blends, and anything that has a nice hefty kick to it, but i cant find anyone who ships to where I'm located. Know anyone who can ship to FPO,AP?
> 
> One more. i was told that briar and meer pipes need to cool down and dry out before they are ready to be smoked again after a bowl. Is this true? How long does this take? Thanks!


If you like aros you won't be dissappointed with Boswells Berry Cobler my friend.


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Hendu3270 said:


> If you like aros you won't be dissappointed with Boswells Berry Cobler my friend.


:tpd: He speaks the truth.


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## beefytee (Apr 16, 2009)

Anyone ever smoked/owned a clay pipe?

Any suggestions?


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## Uelrindru (Mar 16, 2010)

I've been interested but I don't know enough to get a handle on how to find one and what the good ones are yet. If I find one I'll let you know.


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

Terrhor said:


> Here is a question for y'all. I've been smoking cob for almost a year on and off whenever it struck me. Now ive gotten a previously used briar pipe from a friend, but i lack a lot of selection in tobacco here. I like the aromatic blends, and anything that has a nice hefty kick to it, but i cant find anyone who ships to where I'm located. Know anyone who can ship to FPO,AP?
> 
> One more. i was told that briar and meer pipes need to cool down and dry out before they are ready to be smoked again after a bowl. Is this true? How long does this take? Thanks!


Like he sez, ask the 'tailer about shipping/customs issues.

Briars need to rest between smokes, to dry out. Some fellas like to give them a day or more, some guys do not.

Meers do not need rest - however, it recommended that you allow them to cool after a smoke, probably to allow the color/wax to settle down.


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## Mad Hatter (Apr 8, 2007)

beefytee said:


> Anyone ever smoked/owned a clay pipe?
> 
> Any suggestions?


I had a few of the tavern clays but I thought they smoked hot and tasted horrible. Other guys have said they like them......... Lepeltier makes clay pipes for a nice price and I've heard several people say they smoked well.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Terrhor said:


> Here is a question for y'all. I've been smoking cob for almost a year on and off whenever it struck me. Now ive gotten a previously used briar pipe from a friend, but i lack a lot of selection in tobacco here. I like the aromatic blends, and anything that has a nice hefty kick to it, but i cant find anyone who ships to where I'm located. Know anyone who can ship to FPO,AP?
> 
> One more. i was told that briar and meer pipes need to cool down and dry out before they are ready to be smoked again after a bowl. Is this true? How long does this take? Thanks!


Egad, man! You like aromatics and you're hard aground in Japan? One hopes you are not underwater for 98% of your tour....

Screw APO FP; find a tobacconist and get you a tin of Momoyama II. Plum seasoned virginias - quite lovely stuff, Momo II. If you scout hard you might find some original Momoyama in the ginza - a cult tobak rare-to-unknown in the USA. Not sold is US or EU to my knowledge. There. I've given you the crown 'effing jewels. If you'll please send me 10 tins I will reply with equal value + 25% of whatever you want from over here. APO FP is no problem and I have a very good traders rating. I won't let you down!

I'd start looking around for some local pipemakers, too. You might find some jewels over there, uh huh.


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## beefytee (Apr 16, 2009)

Is Escudo named after the Portuguese currency? I figured since they were coins......


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## Garin (May 21, 2010)

Hello,

I've enjoyed the occasional cigar for a while now, and these days I've been keen on trying out pipes. A few weeks ago, I dropped by a local shop that was (sadly) going out of business. I picked up a few corncobs, a tool, some cleaners, and a few tins of tobacco on clearance prices. A little while later I also got myself a peterson pipe, also on clearance -- so it was a relatively inexpensive way to start.

Anyhow, on the advice of the tobacconist I chose two tins: King Charles Smoking Mixture and My Mixture 965. I'm not really too interested in aromatics, though since then I've also picked up a small baggie of a local tobacconist bulk stuff and a tin of Solani's Mystery X just to give it a shot.

So far? Ok, I think. I watched loads of videos on packing and lighting, etc. I mostly do a three-fills version of packing, and I think it's ok. However, after maybe half a dozen bowls I was getting a bit disappointed because there really wasn't any -flavour- to speak of, besides a bit of warm air/smokiness and an acrid taste that builds over time. I soon learned that having some water to sip really smoothed that bitterness out. However, I have no real troubles with tongue bite (aside from maybe my first bowl). The pipe normally goes out a few times before I'm done, but that doesn't bother me too much. But everyone kept talking about all these flavours on the reviews and so forth, and I just didn't get it. Plus I didn't get anything like what I get from cigars.

HOWEVER.... recently I had to relight after neglecting the pipe for several minutes, and for whatever reason I pulled a bit more firmly than I ever had before. All of a sudden it was this revelatory experience, an enormous burst of I guess malty rich tobaccoey flavour and billowy smoke. It was amazing, and delicious. After the first couple of puffs, however, the smoke died down again to just a trickle, and the flavour was gone.

Since then I've recreated it a few times, mostly by relighting. I can prolong the flavour by smoking quite hard. But, predictably, the bowl gets too hot to hold and I have to slow right down to let it cool off. Usually I let it go out and then relight, repeating the cycle. 

Something is wrong though, yes? I'm guessing/hoping that this blast of flavour is at least something like I should be getting more or less all of the time, no? Those moments are spectacular, and the rest of the time it's almost nothing.

Am I not packing enough tobacco? Too much? From what I've read, I'm sure my tobaccos are at least decent ones, and should have good flavour.

I don't think it's moisture-related, as I've tried them right-out-of-the-tin moist, left-on-the-desk-for-an-hour dry, and everything in between. But maybe?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

I am pretty sure that everyone goes through the exact same then that you are when they first start smoking a pipe. Work on your filling technique, there should be very light resistance when you draw in air though the pipe. Besides the three layer method search youtube for the "Frank Method" this completely changed thing for me when I was having trouble in the beginning, but some people don't prefer it, so your mileage may vary. Smoking a pipe well takes practice, it's not like a cigar where you can just light and be good to go, there is a certain finesse that is required. The more you smoke the more you will learn about smoking, and the more you will be able to train you pallet to pick up on the subtle flavors in the tobacco. Welcome.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

beefytee said:


> Is Escudo named after the Portuguese currency? I figured since they were coins......


Gold, minted in Spain, from whence came "pieces of eight" and "doubloons" I expect.


----------



## beefytee (Apr 16, 2009)

Is there a tobacco rating scale like in cigars. 

Like "Cigar Aficionado gave the Rocky Patel a 94"...?

I know these things are, in the end the arbitrary opinion of a couple of "expert" smokers...but in my cigar days, they did help me discover some pretty special sticks.


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## okieblow (May 23, 2010)

I use a number method for my own personal rating system but I have never seen a solid number rating for pipe tobacco. However there is a tobacco review database that uses a star method, it's called tobaccoreviews.com. Tobacco reviews has saved me many times.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

beefytee said:


> Is there a tobacco rating scale like in cigars.
> 
> Like "Cigar Aficionado gave the Rocky Patel a 94"...?
> 
> I know these things are, in the end the arbitrary opinion of a couple of "expert" smokers...but in my cigar days, they did help me discover some pretty special sticks.


The public barometer for pipe tobacco is the 0-4 star rating at www.tobaccoreviews.com. It'll give you a good idea of what's what.

If you want good advice on how to draw very tight bead on what you like based on your known likes/dislikes, this forum is the better place.


----------



## Garin (May 21, 2010)

Thanks for the suggestions on filling etc. I think a big part of my problem was that I wasn't filling anywhere *near* enough tobacco. After checking out some Frank videos and trying that out, I noticed that my pipe lasts for over an hour, and I can slowly sip and enjoy the whole time!

(I've also noticed the nicotine load that everyone talks about with some of the stronger tobaccos I have :faint


----------



## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Glad things are working better for you.


----------



## BigRay023 (Apr 11, 2009)

I just got in a Stanwell that I got off ebay and the stem will not come out and I am afraid of breaking something....is there any tricks to the trade out there?


----------



## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

BigRay023 said:


> I just got in a Stanwell that I got off ebay and the stem will not come out and I am afraid of breaking something....is there any tricks to the trade out there?


Try putting it in the fridge for a while, usually that's enough to get it loosened up. When you take it out, just make sure you're gentle & that you let it warm up for a while before lighting up.


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## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

BigRay023 said:


> I just got in a Stanwell that I got off ebay and the stem will not come out and I am afraid of breaking something....is there any tricks to the trade out there?


Put it in the freezer for an hour or two.


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## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

How do you repair a loose stem? I tried heating up the tenon and gently forced a drill bit just a little larger than the draft hole then let it cool off. When I took the bit out it was a little better but still loose. It's just a cheapo pipe so should I try it again or is there a better method?


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## BigRay023 (Apr 11, 2009)

Hermit said:


> Put it in the freezer for an hour or two.


Sounds a LOL crazy but I will give it a shot. Thanks.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

SmoknTaz said:


> How do you repair a loose stem? I tried heating up the tenon and gently forced a drill bit just a little larger than the draft hole then let it cool off. When I took the bit out it was a little better but still loose. It's just a cheapo pipe so should I try it again or is there a better method?


Melt a drop or two of beeswax on the tenon and smear it around evening it out. That works almost every time.

Alternative - paint the tenon with one coat of clear fingernail polish. If it doesn't fit just a hair lose sand it a bit with finest paper. That always works.

The above assumes you've already smoked the pipe a couple of times which snugs up nearly ever loose tenon.


----------



## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

Mister Moo said:


> Melt a drop or two of beeswax on the tenon and smear it around evening it out. That works almost every time.
> 
> Alternative - paint the tenon with one coat of clear fingernail polish. If it doesn't fit just a hair lose sand it a bit with finest paper. That always works.
> 
> The above assumes you've already smoked the pipe a couple of times which snugs up nearly ever loose tenon.


Don't have the wax but will try the nail polish. Thanks Mr. Moo! :thumb:


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

SmoknTaz said:


> Don't have the wax but will try the nail polish. Thanks Mr. Moo! :thumb:


You need some. Be sure to buy a jar of honey still on the comb when you see some. Keep the wax - send me the honey. 

I think craft shops sell pieces of it, too. About a gram lasts a lifetime.

You have smoked this pipe a few times and it didn't snug up, right?


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## BigRay023 (Apr 11, 2009)

Thanks for the tip Fellas. Came apart no problem with teh chill. And I guess it's time to go buys some natural honey because the opposite problem is bound to happen sooner or later. What kind of wax do you get to redo the outside of meers?


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

BigRay023 said:


> Thanks for the tip Fellas. Came apart no problem with teh chill. And I guess it's time to go buys some natural honey because the opposite problem is bound to happen sooner or later. What kind of wax do you get to redo the outside of meers?


Same. Plug the bowl with cork and cook it! Here's how Baki does it - he oughta know.










This recipe works best for about 50-80 pipes, I guess. 

Be an expert - start here: http://bestmeerschaums.homestead.com/coverpage.html

http://www.smokingpipes.com/information/howto/meerschaum.cfm

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/general-pipe-forum/254914-how-rewax-meerschaum-pipe.html

http://www.ehow.com/how_5833038_rewax-meerschaum-pipe.html

http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Alt/alt.smokers.pipes/2005-12/msg02663.html


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## BigRay023 (Apr 11, 2009)

Looks like I got some more reading. Why cork the bowl and not the shank tho?


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

BigRay023 said:


> Looks like I got some more reading. Why cork the bowl and not the shank tho?


Yeah - plug the shank, too. Tiny cork?


----------



## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

Mister Moo said:


> You need some. Be sure to buy a jar of honey still on the comb when you see some. Keep the wax - send me the honey.
> 
> I think craft shops sell pieces of it, too. About a gram lasts a lifetime.
> 
> You have smoked this pipe a few times and it didn't snug up, right?


Would Maple Syrup work :mrgreen:

I have smoked the pipe a couple of times and it did not tighten up. I will have to put sandpaper on the shopping list too. Will 600 grit do the job?


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

SmoknTaz said:


> Would Maple Syrup work :mrgreen:
> 
> Will 600 grit do the job?


Never tried maple syrup 'cepting pancakes, waffles, etc. Be the first! I've only ever needed beeswax to snug one up so I don't know.


----------



## beefytee (Apr 16, 2009)

I took my peterson #1 camping this weekend. Night #1 I had some vanilla tinderbox, night #2 I had 1 bowl of SG Acadia ans 1 coin of escudo shortly after. That coin burned so nicely. 1 light and that was that. 

This pipe is "broken in", but does not have much in the cake department yet. 

Did I smoke too much in too short a time? What damage could I have done. 

This wouldn't have been a problem if my ebay seller mad good on his promise to get me my pipe by last Friday!.


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Oversmoking a briar will make your tobacco taste rotten or fry your tongue like a potato but won't ruin your pipe.

When the bowl is gurgling and swampy looking and you have a wad of soggy dottle left over in the base and otherwise fine tobacco tastes like crap THEN you'll know you should have put the thing up to dry at least one bowl earlier.


----------



## beefytee (Apr 16, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> Oversmoking a briar will make your tobacco taste rotten or fry your tongue like a potato but won't ruin your pipe.
> 
> When the bowl is gurgling and swampy looking and you have a wad of soggy dottle left over in the base and otherwise fine tobacco tastes like crap THEN you'll know you should have put the thing up to dry at least one bowl earlier.


I suppose I lucked out. The escudo was delicious and there was nothing swampy about that last bowl.

It WAS only 3 bowls in 48 hours though.

The Arcadia was really amazing as well. The vanilla tinderbox, it was ok.


----------



## jakecartier3 (May 16, 2010)

Hi all, 
I am a complete newbie to pipes so I have a couple of questions. What types of tobacco are best for a newbie? Also, is there any sort of sampler (apart from the newbie sampler thread) out there that I should look into? Do any members on here do things like that?
The reason I would prefer avoiding the Newbie Sampler Thread is because it seems like too much work and too much wait. I just want to pay cash and get this hobby started!
Thank you for any help you can give me.


----------



## ultramag (Aug 23, 2007)

jakecartier3 said:


> Hi all,
> I am a complete newbie to pipes so I have a couple of questions. What types of tobacco are best for a newbie? Also, is there any sort of sampler (apart from the newbie sampler thread) out there that I should look into? Do any members on here do things like that?
> The reason I would prefer avoiding the Newbie Sampler Thread is because it seems like too much work and too much wait. I just want to pay cash and get this hobby started!
> Thank you for any help you can give me.


The NPS thread is the absolute best way to get going. There isn't really a good option for a good sampler through retail, especially when you consider you have no idea even what type of blend you like yet. As for the NPS being too much work and wait I don't see that at all. Ordering tins for an EPS is no harder than ordering a mishmash of tin samples for yourself. The only extra wait will be possibly two to three shipping days difference. The best, and IMO, proper way to do things has been established over time for very good reasons in this forum and it's not because the members who serve as EPS's can't figure out how to order a couple tins on their own.

Sign up for the NPS sampler when you can and buy a pouch or two of OTC's locally to keep you busy while you wait. You'll still be learning how to smoke a pipe properly when your samples arrive, trust me. :2


----------



## jakecartier3 (May 16, 2010)

ultramag said:


> The NPS thread is the absolute best way to get going. There isn't really a good option for a good sampler through retail, especially when you consider you have no idea even what type of blend you like yet. As for the NPS being too much work and wait I don't see that at all. Ordering tins for an EPS is no harder than ordering a mishmash of tin samples for yourself. The only extra wait will be possibly two to three shipping days difference. The best, and IMO, proper way to do things has been established over time for very good reasons in this forum and it's not because the members who serve as EPS's can't figure out how to order a couple tins on their own.
> 
> Sign up for the NPS sampler when you can and buy a pouch or two of OTC's locally to keep you busy while you wait. You'll still be learning how to smoke a pipe properly when your samples arrive, trust me. :2


Quick question about NPS: When I order the tin for them, would I have it shipped directly there or to me, then them?


----------



## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

You can ship it directly to them, the only issue is that some shops have a minimum order of $15.00


----------



## ultramag (Aug 23, 2007)

Commander Quan said:


> You can ship it directly to them, the only issue is that some shops have a minimum order of $15.00


What CQ said. The 100g trade is the best trade anyway though. :2


----------



## beefytee (Apr 16, 2009)

Is there any practicality behind the military mount? Or is it just fashion?

Either way it's beginning to grow on me.


----------



## KetherInMalkuth (Dec 17, 2009)

beefytee said:


> Is there any practicality behind the military mount? Or is it just fashion?
> 
> Either way it's beginning to grow on me.


They are supposed to prevent/protect against cracking of the shank, they also allow you to remove the bit even when the pipe is warm, it also should maintain a tight tenon/mortise fit better considering the tenon is tapered to jam fit the mortise, so it doesn't have to maintain the perfect tolerances that a vulcanite/lucite & briar match does.

Personally I don't like the look of them, but it's probably the better design compared to just a briar mortise.


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

They are very practical. I have a militaryish mount on a Stanwell billiard, that thing is great. Just break it down, throw it in a pipe sock, and shove it into your pocket, and you can take it anywhere.


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## Jojah17 (Mar 30, 2010)

Anybody ever shopped at Emerson's Cigars before?

Cigars - Buy Quality Cigars Online - Emerson's Cigars

They have a pipe I've been looking for but I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with them. Cant find this pipe anywhere else for the record and would really love to have it for my upcoming trip to Alaska. Thanks for any help.


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## Jojah17 (Mar 30, 2010)

Alright now Im frustrated. Ive been holding out for a Sav 320 EX Baronet for a long while now (thats whats on the emerson's site--although I doubt its really in stock) and I finally decided to go for the Sav 320 EX Hercules off cupojoes.com. A little more cash but I really liked the finish. Unfortunately they emailed me and told me it was out of stock. Kudos to them for being so swift in helping me out (though I do wish they had it in stock like their website said). 

All that being said, I really want to find either a Hercules or Baronet before I head up to Alaska on the 25th. I emailed a couple of the sites a couple months ago and they told me to just keep checking (which I did) but I still have yet to see one in stock anywhere. Does anyone have any super secret pipe sites that may have one of these bad boys in stock? I want to smoke this beast and possibly use it as a club to defend myself against territorial grizzlies so essentially my life depends on it. Thanks for any help in advance!


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Jojah17 here you go
Savinelli Hercules Series
Savinelli Baronet Bruyere (121 EX) Pipes at Smoking Pipes .com
Savinelli Baronet Bruyere (814 EX) Pipes at Smoking Pipes .com
Savinelli Hercules Smooth (121 EX) Pipes at Smoking Pipes .com


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Wish I could help ya Ben! I have no experience with Emerson's, or super secret pipe-sources. 
Here's what I could find for other Sav 320's (I have a Venezia & LOVE it):

-Standing
-Tundra
-Pisa
-Spring
-Tevere
-Trevi
-Oscar Dry


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## Jojah17 (Mar 30, 2010)

Sorry Quan, I hate to seem overly picky but I was really looking for the 320EX specifically. That seems the most suitable to my bear defense scenario. Actually, I just really really like the 'oversized author' shape.

Thanks Jeff, I'll check out some of those sites when I get a minute!


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## beefytee (Apr 16, 2009)

Rhodesian vs Bulldog.

To me they look very similar, where are the differences?

Is it all in the shank?

It seems bulldogs are more of a strict shape, and Rhodesians are more open to interpretation. If you see som big, ungainly bulldog-like pipe...it's generally called a Rhodesian.

EDIT:::And Google shall set you FREE!!



> # The Bulldog has an upright bowl, with just a bit of inclination at the top part of the bowl.
> # The Rhodesian has a bowl exhibiting an "acute" inclination at the bowl rim, a sort of squatted bowl.


http://www.pipesandtobaccos.com/pipesandtobaccos/info/insights/article01.htm

agree or disagree?


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

beefytee said:


> Rhodesian vs Bulldog.
> 
> To me they look very similar, where are the differences?


Some say a bulldog is a charteristically shaped bowl on a straight pipe with a *diamond shank*. If you bend it, some say, it's a rhodesian.

Others say a bulldog can be straight or bent, as long as it has a diamond shank. The rhodesian has the same shaped bowl with a *round shank*, straight or bent.

I say a bulldog has a diamond shank and a rhodesian has a round shank, bent or straight - and they both have the same characteristically shaped bowl.

Bulldog









Rhodesian









Read more... http://www.diethelm.org/pipes/show_html.php?base=shapes&lang=english&name=bulldog_or_rhodesian.html


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## beefytee (Apr 16, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> Some say a bulldog is a charteristically shaped bowl on a straight pipe with a *diamond shank*. If you bend it, some say, it's a rhodesian.
> 
> Others say a bulldog can be straight or bent, as long as it has a diamond shank. The rhodesian has the same shaped bowl with a *round shank*, straight or bent.
> 
> ...


So this line of thinking is all in the shank.

The original bulldog, made by the French and called a Haiti had a round stem...

but that was a Haiti, not a Bulldog. Even if the design is based off of a french pipe, I consider the bulldog to be firmly in the british camp.


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## Francisco Scaramanga (Jul 15, 2010)

Hello everyone,
I'm new here and purchased my first pipe a couple of days ago. I wasn't aware that the type of pipe would make such a big difference and blindly made the purchase of a haojue pipe. I've since read this is not a very good pipe. 

After buying my pipe I made a quick inspection and unscrewed the part where you replace the auxiliary rubber rings. Originally it was very tight, but now, after screwing it back on it never gets back to that original tight fit. Still feels like a screw that's not properly in. 

Anyway, decided to give it anyway and smoke some sutliff private stock purchased earlier and noticed I would rarely get a good puff in. Also, I had to almost always light the tobacco if I wanted to smoke it. I think right now it has something to do with how I packed it (didn't sprinkle it as advised) but I'm more curious about whether the pipe could have a problem after I unscrewed it.


----------



## Malky (Jul 10, 2010)

Hi I've read a bit about tongue bite. Is there any way to avoid this? Is it true certain tobaccos affect people differently? If I smoke cigarrettes then go back to my pipe this seems to make my tongue bite worse other than abstain from one or the other is there anything I can do?

Also I'm going to get MacBarens Roll cake and Peterson's Sherlock Holmes has anyone tried these?


----------



## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Malky said:


> Hi I've read a bit about tongue bite. Is there any way to avoid this? Is it true certain tobaccos affect people differently? If I smoke cigarrettes then go back to my pipe this seems to make my tongue bite worse other than abstain from one or the other is there anything I can do?
> 
> Also I'm going to get MacBarens Roll cake and Peterson's Sherlock Holmes has anyone tried these?


I've read that some tobaccos will just bite a particular person, based on ph levels or sugar content, so a particular tobacco just might not work for you. Aromatics (particularly the cheaper ones) are more likely to have additives that might cause some bite. Other than that, smoke slowly and gently. Make sure your tobacco isn't too moist before you pack it. Make sure you still have an easy draw after packing.

And if you're not rolling your own cigarettes from premium tobacco I would suggest smoking your pipe more often instead. I'm not surprised that commercial cigarettes are burning your tongue considering their content: YouTube - Modern Marvels : Tobacco


----------



## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Anybody used walkerbriarworks for pipe repairs? I'm thinking of sending one of my pipes in to have it opened up.


----------



## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

commonsenseman said:


> Anybody used walkerbriarworks for pipe repairs? I'm thinking of sending one of my pipes in to have it opened up.


I've used him once, and was less than impressed. I sent him an old Kaywoodie to be refurbished. When it came back it was half good and half bad. The pipe exterior and interior were nicely cleaned. The top of the bowl needed to be sanded and restained to repair some marks, and it came back to me with the stain still uncured. I could literally wipe it off with my finger. The stem looked like new, but the metal Kaywoodie fitment was still stained and clogged with tobacco. He was nice to deal with, and got the work done quickly, but it was not satisfactory. Unless someone totally ****s up, though, I like to give them a second chance. I recently sent him a Sav to clean up and get a couple tooth marks out. We'll see how this one turns out.

For airway work (or any pipe work) I would recommend George Dibos at precisionpiperepair.com. He takes FOREVER, but his work is the best. If you want it done quickly _and _up to par I've had good luck with Scott Bundy at piperestore.com


----------



## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Thanks for the advice, I'll check those out too. I looked at walker first because I've heard rave reviews of their "forever stems"


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Francisco Scaramanga said:


> Hello everyone,
> I'm new here and purchased my first pipe a couple of days ago. I wasn't aware that the type of pipe would make such a big difference and blindly made the purchase of a haojue pipe. I've since read this is not a very good pipe.
> 
> After buying my pipe I made a quick inspection and unscrewed the part where you replace the auxiliary rubber rings. Originally it was very tight, but now, after screwing it back on it never gets back to that original tight fit. Still feels like a screw that's not properly in.
> ...


I am baffled. We are not much a rubber-ring and screw-in thingie community. Read more here: http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/general-pipe-forum/197415-haojue-pipes-any-good-beginners.html

Conventional wisdom - which I now believe in 100% - suggests a Missouri Meerschaum corncob pipe and a pouch of Prince Albert or Carter Hall tobacco is the place to start. I respectfully leave it at that unless someone knows something nice about the rubber and screw-in thingie pipe.


----------



## thebayratt (Jun 4, 2009)

I have a VERY Noob question for you pipe Guys.

I am in the process of learning how to smoke a pipe, so here is my question.

The "flake" tabacco, how do you go about putting it into your pipe if its all together. Is there a certain way you break it up?? Its not "loose" like the "typical" pipe tabaccos I have seen.


(photo from d day's post)

another example that puzzles me:

(from Vox3l's post)


----------



## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

There are a couple different ways to prepare flake tobacco, and not all flakes need to be prepared the same way. Once you get into flakes you can try different methods of preparing them and see which method you prefer for each blend.

This page as a couple good vids on preparing flakes. Flake Pipe Tobacco Preparation Videos

The coins can be done in the same ways.


----------



## Siv (Jul 26, 2010)

There are some great videos on U-Tube that show various people's methods on using flake baccy. 

I used to rub it all out into strands and pack it normally but you get a different flavour and experience with the "fold and stuff" method. Bear in mind that if you do "fold and stuff", you should use a smaller pipe as the dense baccy will last a very long time. Personally, I also use a torch to light it as it's harder to get the cherry gowing with a conventional flame lighter.


----------



## thebayratt (Jun 4, 2009)

Thanks for the info guys!


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Flakes are art. There are different takes for different flakes.

*
Mac Baren - How to fill a pipe

How to Enjoy Flake Tobacco

Flake Tobacco

YouTube - How to fill flake tobacco into pipe for smoking

How To Fill A Pipe With Flake Tobacco - Video

Smoking Pipe*

So many flakes, so many pipe shapes and sizes, moisture levels are all over the board... weird burns and weird handling instructions compared to nice easy ribbon tobak. How does a pipe smoker ever figure our flakes? It took me a couple of years of by-guess and by-golly and, now, I mostly prefer flake tobacco of one kind or another.

When someone says, "I just fold it and stuff it in the bowl" you might find, like other filling methods, it isn't as simple as it seems if you're expecting a quick light, even burn and ash to the bottom.

For new pipe smokers my general flake-take is this:

1. Get a few ounces of one certain flake and stick with it until you figure it out. One of the great products in my view (it comes in bulk, by the way) is Peter Stokkebye Luxury Bullseye Flake. There are many others that are great introductions to flakes quality and technique but LBF is readily available, consistent, not a hot smoker and easy to handle.

2. Smoke some half-bowls fill until you figure out expansion. Some flakes will swell up quite a bit a few minutes after lighting and most require gentle tamps to prevent plugging up the works. Been there. Done that.  If you plug up a bowl with a flake best you just empty it and start again. A lot of pointy-pipe-tool airhole-drilling into flake-plugs just isn't going to further your education at the get go.

3. Consider flakes can be:

quite moist (they bend 90* but don't really break - they're chewy like);
less moist (they bend and then tend to break somewhat); and 
dry-ish (when folded the bend tends to break cleanly).

More moist can mean more swelling in the bowl along with the usual dribbles, gurgles and tendency to a hot smoke. Take care with moist flakes as they may bite and/or plug up your pipe. Less moist is mostly good. Dry-ish makes for easy rubbing and, sometimes, a tastier smoke. Try a flake at diffferent moisture levels to see where flavor and ease of smoking is best for you.

4. Most flakes can be reduced (rubbed out) to shreds before filling. The texture, after rubbing out, is stringy or shag-like and fine to smoke. Some flakes (like Krumble Kake/Penzance) tend to crumble rather than shred. If suitably suitably dry most flakes can be folded and stuffed or screwed in a bowl.

5. When you just can't get a stuffed/screwed flake to light there is a lot to be said for sprinkling some if it, finely crumbled, atop the bowl and trying a relight. This method often gets a flake burning easily AND evenly.

6. There is much discussion about smaller bowls being better for flake smoking than larger bowls. While my opinion is, "Yo. Whatever works for you," I favor flakes in smaller pipes and suggest a new flake guy uses a smaller (caked/used pipe if available) and only a half-fill.

Knowing how to smoke flake tobak is one of those things you need to experience - there's teriffic stuff out there in Flakeville. Go slow, learn the nuances and don't mess yourself up by having a bunch of different flakes all going at the same time.


----------



## thebayratt (Jun 4, 2009)

Here is another question:

_On average_, how many bowls can you get out of a 50g tin?

I know its determined with bowl size, but just a general idea will do.


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

thebayratt said:


> Here is another question:
> 
> _On average_, how many bowls can you get out of a 50g tin?
> 
> I know its determined with bowl size, but just a general idea will do.


http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/general-pipe-forum/261100-how-many-bowls-per-ounce.html


----------



## thebayratt (Jun 4, 2009)

Thanks Moo!

Another satisfied noob question answered~


----------



## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Gentlemen, can clay pipes like these:

Clay Pipes - Smoking Accessories

be considered corncobs of the clay world, smoke-quality wise? I want to try out some clay pipes and want to keep it cheap just like cobs. The prices are reasonable I guess, and this is the only vendor I could find, who could ship to my side of the world.

Also, how to clean clay pipes after a smoke? I remember reading somewhere, something like putting the pipe in embers of a wood-fire :shock:??? Since all my heating/cooking etc is on gas fires, if that's how it's done, can you specify some other method?? :ask:

Thanks.


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Some kind soul wrote the lot about clay pipes: A beginner's guide to clay pipes (long) - alt.smokers.pipes | Google Groups


----------



## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> Some kind soul wrote the lot about clay pipes: A beginner's guide to clay pipes (long) - alt.smokers.pipes | Google Groups


Thanks Moo. Great read.


----------



## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Jogi said:


> Gentlemen, can clay pipes like these:
> 
> Clay Pipes - Smoking Accessories
> 
> be considered corncobs of the clay world, smoke-quality wise? I want to try out some clay pipes and want to keep it cheap just like cobs...


Anyone? What I meant to ask is that, just like corn cobs getting the job done ok, are these clays like that? Can I safely start my clay experiment from such pipes?


----------



## thewileyman (Apr 14, 2009)

Jogi said:


> Anyone? What I meant to ask is that, just like corn cobs getting the job done ok, are these clays like that? Can I safely start my clay experiment from such pipes?


I haven't had much success with that style of clay pipe. Granted, I've only smoked two, but on both the draw hole has been too narrow... like trying to drink a thick milkshake through a coffee-stirrer. Personally, I wouldn't buy a clay pipe of that style that I couldn't inspect in person first and make sure that it had a good draw.


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

I think the word on the forum was that the ones, at least the ones sold by pipesandcigars.com, tended to smoke hot. No personal experience though.


----------



## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

One more caveat: they are very fragile. There's a reason they sell them by the box like that. I bought one back in the seventies (probably while wearing stacks, elephant bells and a garish shirt; you had to be there...), and it shortly morphed from churchwarden to nosewarmer. They do indeed smoke very hot, but then I was a hopeless newb with no internet boards to guide me.


----------



## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Thank you gentlemen. So, does this mean that, one should at least be able to physically check the pipe before buying and if that is not possible, stick to a quality manufacturer like LePeltier(?) etc??


----------



## Siriusnorm (Aug 24, 2010)

Hey Mr. Pipe Guy. I just picked up a pipe on ebay and I don't know much about it! I like the way it looks so I got it. I was wondering if you could help me!! I can't post pictures or links yet so I will tell you about it. The markings on the pipe "York Old Briar" on one side "34" on the other side. THe stem as a "Y" on it. That is all I got. Any help would be great!


----------



## TXsmoker (Sep 6, 2010)

Siriusnorm said:


> Hey Mr. Pipe Guy. I just picked up a pipe on ebay and I don't know much about it! I like the way it looks so I got it. I was wondering if you could help me!! I can't post pictures or links yet so I will tell you about it. The markings on the pipe "York Old Briar" on one side "34" on the other side. THe stem as a "Y" on it. That is all I got. Any help would be great!


Host the photo on photobucket, then just copy and paste the IMG code in your post. That way doesnt load up and slow down sites as much.


----------



## Siriusnorm (Aug 24, 2010)

TXsmoker said:


> Host the photo on photobucket, then just copy and paste the IMG code in your post. That way doesnt load up and slow down sites as much.


That is what I did and the forum blocked me. Said I need 30 post to post link or photo.


----------



## TXsmoker (Sep 6, 2010)

Oh, I hadnt tried to post anything yet. Most sites Ive been on only restrict photo hosting for new members. My bad.


----------



## Siriusnorm (Aug 24, 2010)

TXsmoker said:


> Oh, I hadnt tried to post anything yet. Most sites Ive been on only restrict photo hosting for new members. My bad.


It's cool.


----------



## thewileyman (Apr 14, 2009)

Jogi, sorry you didn't get a quicker response to your last question.

I'd definitely recommend Lepeltier pipes. I own one and am happy with it. It also has the advantage of not getting nearly as hot as a more traditionally-styled clay pipe since the bowl is double-walled.


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Siriusnorm said:


> Hey Mr. Pipe Guy. I just picked up a pipe on ebay and I don't know much about it! I like the way it looks so I got it. I was wondering if you could help me!! I can't post pictures or links yet so I will tell you about it. The markings on the pipe "York Old Briar" on one side "34" on the other side. THe stem as a "Y" on it. That is all I got. Any help would be great!


Hmmmm. Marked "York", made by York, stem stamped "Y" and stummel stamped 34. Sounds like it's a York #34 to me. It may have been made in New York. I dunno. 

A lesser known brand which, nonetheless, may be a fine smoking pipe; Pipephil.com sez York may have been made by the firm Kaufman Bros. & Bondy (KBB) of New York, of Kaywoodie and Yello-bole fame. See more about KB&B: S. M. Frank & Co., Inc. - History The German firm Vauen makes a briar line called York, but I expect their pipes are all clearly stamped "Vauen."










I'd love to see a picture of what may be a great piece of American pipelore.


----------



## Siriusnorm (Aug 24, 2010)

Thanks for the information. as soon as I have 30 post I will put up a picture!


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Siriusnorm said:


> Thanks for the information. as soon as I have 30 post I will put up a picture!


Or put it up on tinypic.com and give us the link. We are versatile and impatient.


----------



## Siriusnorm (Aug 24, 2010)

Mister Moo said:


> Or put it up on tinypic.com and give us the link. We are versatile and impatient.


"To be able to post links or images your post count must be *30* or greater. You currently have *5* posts."

Still not working!

flickr
.com/
photos/
siriusnorm/
4971762640

Maybe thiat will work I put spaces in the link.


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Siriusnorm said:


> "To be able to post links or images your post count must be *30* or greater. You currently have *5* posts."
> 
> Still not working!
> 
> ...


 That's a nice looking 4-panel with a good looking vulcanite stem, S'norm. See not much more at: Y -- Pipes: Logos & Markings


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## SSGpiper (May 2, 2010)

Ok, soooo, now Im wondering. How does one use honey to cure briar?


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## Siriusnorm (Aug 24, 2010)

SSGpiper said:


> Ok, soooo, now Im wondering. How does one use honey to cure briar?


Don't know never have done it. Get a Dr. Grabow as they are presmoked and ready to puff!


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

I've heard of coating the bowl with a bit of honey to aid in building cake, but really, it just isn't necessary. All that's really needed to build cake is a bit of patience; it's just that when you're first starting out it seems to take forever. Believe me, soon enough, you'll have enough cake to make you grumble whenever you have to dig out your reamer!


----------



## SSGpiper (May 2, 2010)

MarkC said:


> I've heard of coating the bowl with a bit of honey to aid in building cake, but really, it just isn't necessary. All that's really needed to build cake is a bit of patience; it's just that when you're first starting out it seems to take forever. Believe me, soon enough, you'll have enough cake to make you grumble whenever you have to dig out your reamer!


nooo, the stamp on the pipe in the pics says "Honey cured briar" or something like that......that was the source of my question.


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

The pipe is probably a Yello Bole here's some more info 
Yello-Bole - Pipedia


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## wolfmanxiii (Sep 29, 2010)

Alright, I got a few (sorry if they have been asked already).

I've read that if you pull the smoke into your mouth and can breath in and out of your nose without smoke going in or out, you are not inhaling. This doesn't make much sense to me since that just means you haven't let any smoke into your sinuses, not your lungs. I'm concerned about this because I want to enjoy a pipe and smoking without all the lung issues people who inhale tend to have. 

I usually blow the smoke out of my nose when I smoke my pipe though...so does this mean I'm inhaling? 

For some reason blowing it out of my mouth seems unnatural to me, do you guys blow smoke from your nose as well?

If I in fact am doing this wrong and am inhaling in some way (which I suspect I may be at least a little bit because on days that I smoke more, the upper part of my chest feel kind of tight) can someone tell me how to do this correctly?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Unless you are a cigarette smoker you would probably know if you were inhaling into your lungs. There are a couple terms you can search for if you want to one is "Snorking" and the other is "retrohaling" both mean the same thing. I do it 2-3 times ever 10 puffs or so, and usually notice different tastes then when I just pull the smoke into my mouth. Here's a good video on the technique. 
YouTube - Retrohaling Your Cigar Smoke


----------



## wolfmanxiii (Sep 29, 2010)

Thanks for the quick response Quan...however the reason I ask is because I used to be a cigarette smoker. It doesn't feel to me like I'm inhaling at all, but like I said sometimes when I'm smoking a lot of cigars or smoking my pipe a lot the upper portion of my chest feels kind of tight, so I worry that I'm inhaling slightly. Is there any kind of description of the technique to bringing ample smoke into your mouth without inhaling? Maybe then I'll know if I'm doing it right.


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

You want to suck the air in like you were drinking from a straw.


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## wolfmanxiii (Sep 29, 2010)

Thanks again Quan for your quick reply button! :biggrin1:
It seems as though I must not be inhaling (and I'm sure I would notice if I inhaled pipe tobacco from what I hear).

New question...do you have a preferred packing method? Do you vary your packing method depending upon pipe and tobacco types?

I recently started trying the Frank method, I'm getting pretty quick and good at it, but prefer not to use a butane torch, any suggestions for getting a good light when using the Frank method. It seems to burn off a lot of tobacco in the top of the bowl before you really start getting any good smoke as compared to the 3-step method.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Does the MM Ozark, being a wood pipe, benefit from (read: need) cake buildup?


----------



## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

I would let your Ozark develop come cake. I have only smoked mine a couple times but each time the bowl got way to hot to comfortably hold.


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## Mark Anderson (Oct 13, 2010)

Siriusnorm said:


> Don't know never have done it. Get a Dr. Grabow as they are presmoked and ready to puff!


Agreed. You can't beat a Grabow out of the package.


----------



## Granger (Jul 24, 2010)

Or...you could smoke a Meer and not NEED a cake


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## Mark Anderson (Oct 13, 2010)

I've found that all pipes smoke differently. Even pipes that are the same make, have slightly different characteristics. To me, thats the most enjoyable aspect of our vice. Just like tobacco. Every can you open is just slightly different. Just like scotch. No two bottles taste exactly the same.
Isn't that really what draws us to, and keeps us coming back to the things we love?
I'm sure others may see this as a draw back. Or may even not notice the subtle differences I just mentioned. But I'm a simple man who appreciates simplicity in itself. Straight black strong coffee. A bowl of plain grits. Cornbread crushed up in a glass of milk, lightly salted. Butter milk. If I must smoke a cigarette, I'll snap the filter off it. A pipe loaded with Sir Walter Raleigh. Any Scotch is good, straight, room temperature in a glass.
I'm not knocking the more sophisticated, high end brands and so forth. I suppose I just acquired my taste from the people that raised me. If offered an expensive smoke or drink, I'll gladly accept and thank you for the experience. However, no matter how good times are for me, I always seem to prefer the simple drugstore brands.
I still can't tell the difference between a bottle of Johnny Walker Red and Black. Both taste the same to me. And I'll never tire of trying to tell them apart.


----------



## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

wolfmanxiii said:


> Thanks for the quick response Quan...however the reason I ask is because I used to be a cigarette smoker. It doesn't feel to me like I'm inhaling at all, but like I said sometimes when I'm smoking a lot of cigars or smoking my pipe a lot the upper portion of my chest feels kind of tight, so I worry that I'm inhaling slightly. Is there any kind of description of the technique to bringing ample smoke into your mouth without inhaling? Maybe then I'll know if I'm doing it right.


If you were inhaling cigar or pipe smoke into your lungs, you'd know. You're bound to get a little bit in there, though (more from what's in the air around you than when you actually draw in from the pipe, I suspect). I suggest you make sure you're smoking in a well ventilated area, and make sure you blow the smoke away from yourself. See if that makes a difference.

I assume that "smoking a lot of cigars or smoking my pipe a lot" means several smokes a day? You might want to cut back a little and see if that makes a difference. Everyone's body chemistry is different. Some people can handle a lot of smoking and others can't. Perhaps the tightness in you chest is from the nicotine or something else, rather than the smoke itself?


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Got me a new Zippo with the pipe chimney on it and have a problem. It may be operator error, but here goes. Lately I've only been able to smoke the pipe about once a week. Apparently the first time I added lighter fluid, it wasn't enough so I added more. A week later I sit down with my new lighter and a bowl of my current favorite baccy and the lighter won't light. Put more fluid again. A week later the same thing.

What's up? I store it in the room with my baccy's so it's around 72-75 constant. 

Please, ideas!!

Thanks.


----------



## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

The lighter fluid is evaporating. I usually top mine off every week whether I smoke it every day or just once.


----------



## Garin (May 21, 2010)

I don't use my Zippo all that much, maybe once a week at most. It's a bit annoying to refill it every single time I want to use it, so instead of that I just store mine in the smallest size of ziploc bag and squeeze all the air out. I stick that in my pipe-stuff box, and it lasts a long time before I have to refill.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Rubs the sides of the insert with Vaseline; our team of experts in the field claim it reduces evaporation by a great deal.


----------



## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

Very interesting. May have to get my Zippo that I retired because it evaporated too quickly out and give that a shot.


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

Mister Moo said:


> Rubs the sides of the insert with Vaseline; our team of experts in the field claim it reduces evaporation by a great deal.


Yes it works for us un-experts too. Heard of the trick from Plexi-dude I think. You don't have to grease up the whole thing, just apply a dab on the exposed lip after filling/re-inserting, all around. Wipe off excess so the lighter don't slip from yer grip and its done.

Funny thing is I had a zippo 20 years ago and it never had this problem. Maybe the new inserts use a more eco friendly metal, or they came up with a sure fire way to increase sales of their lighter fluid (pun intended).


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to answer. I will do the vaseline AND baggy-not taking any chance.

Just a little history. I bought my first pipe lighter myself for my 50th birthday last year. That lighter made it 3 months and started acting up. Took it back to the same shop and they gave me another one. This one made it for 6 months. I bought my Zippo from a different shop-long story there, and started this nonsense of not firing up after a week. I thought oh no, not again.

But now I know what to do and should solve the problem.

Thanks again.


----------



## tobacmon (May 17, 2007)

A friend at wok knew I was wanting this lighter and I'm not an ebay freak (not that anyone is a freak) and picked it up for me as a gift--nice guy!



Anyho I was wondering if anything other than the standard fluid works in the lighter? I've heard of people using white lightening and the like to not have the taste of the standard fluid--any suggestions?

Thanks for listening---NPS---:cowboyic9:


----------



## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

A storage question, I have some empty jars from GNC supplements etc. Can they be used to store/age tobacco? Since they're used for eatable material, they're obviously safe, and boy are they airtight!! I had some supplement pills which were kinda extremely unstable. A pill would start disintegrating within 5 minutes of air-exposure. And they stayed put for 1 full year before they expired... So, can such jars be used for storage, after thorough cleaning of course??


----------



## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

If the GNC jars are plastic I would advise against using it. Short term is okay but not for long term! A lot of us use mason jars for long term storage.


----------



## billybobjhonson (Nov 5, 2010)

where would the best place to get mason jars be


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

billybobjhonson said:


> where would the best place to get mason jars be


Walmart has them around here. Also local grocery stores should have em.


----------



## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Yard sales are a good spot as well, although you'll want to buy the bands and lids new, of course.


----------



## timothy.ll (Nov 7, 2010)

Hi - thanks for this sticky. Great idea.

I'm wondering if anyone could share their experience with the little foldable metal pipe-stands... do they hold ANY shape of pipe and do they scratch?

Thanks,
Timothy


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

timothy.ll said:


> Hi - thanks for this sticky. Great idea.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone could share their experience with the little foldable metal pipe-stands... do they hold ANY shape of pipe and do they scratch?
> 
> ...


almost; no. For a buck or two, try one; for a dozen pipes, fergettabowdit unless you have some kinda showcase thingie.


----------



## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

I haven't tried the metal ones, but I have one of the plastic ones for my meer. Works fine, and I like being able to see the pipe rather than keeping it in its case.


----------



## Spectabalis (May 17, 2010)

timothy.ll said:


> Hi - thanks for this sticky. Great idea.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone could share their experience with the little foldable metal pipe-stands... do they hold ANY shape of pipe and do they scratch?
> 
> ...


I use both metal and plastic. Both hold my pipes, from full bent to straight with no trouble. The metal ones don't scratch either.
I prefer the metal ones (chrome) as they are far more substantial. In fact only last night I was placing a 1/4 bent pipe on one of the plastic ones and it broke the small plastic lug off. I know the metal ones are more expensive but are worth it.


----------



## timothy.ll (Nov 7, 2010)

Thanks guys. I'll pick one up!

Timothy


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## lbiislander (Oct 15, 2010)

I have a Savinelli 606 that takes balsa filters that I don't use. The pipe came with a balck plastic tube. When the pipe was set up for me by the retailer (a pipe smoker too) he didn't mention the black tube, but did ask me about the filters. While reading something (possibly on the Savinelli web site) I saw something that said either use the filters or use the black tube. Using the tube makes it almost impossible to get a pipe cleaner through the pipe to the bowl. Do I really need this tube?


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Some say yes, many say no. I say no.


----------



## lbiislander (Oct 15, 2010)

Thanks


----------



## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

I have 3 Savinellis, all of them take filters, but I haven't used the filters or the black tubes in any of them. They all smoke just fine.

WWhermit
ipe:


----------



## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

ok so i want to buy a corn cob (to try out differnent tobacco's) on ebay i found a 6 corn cob deal for 10 bucks. and its called the original corn cob. would that work? 10 bucks for it sounds cheap for 6 when alot of them run for 30 bucks for a 12 or so. the reason i am getting 6 is i am giving some away

link


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

If it was me, I'd hold out for Missouri Meerschaums. Those may be fine, I'm just not familiar with them.


----------



## cherrymax (Jun 6, 2009)

MarkC said:


> If it was me, I'd hold out for Missouri Meerschaums. Those may be fine, I'm just not familiar with them.


X2 what MarkC said. Plus they are available anywhere for about 5 bucks and they are brand new and not used.


----------



## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

mhmm thanks, i found some for sure, but they sell them for 10 bucks at a store near me and i think its a little too much for a corn cob...

so would those even be smokable? they seem to cheap to be true (in general can a cheap corn cob change the taste, since i am pretty much going to be trying out different baccys)


----------



## Cadillac (Feb 28, 2007)

Two quick questions;

1) Is there a half-decent pipe lighter that you can purchase at a reasonable price? The Old Boys seem nice, but for 100 clams, I'd rather spend that on a pipe. I remember seeing a Ronson pipe lighter once, but haven't seen them since.

2) I got some bulk in from 4Noggins (outstanding service, great advice!) that I've stashed away in mason jars, but what do most people do with their tins after they've opened them?

Thanks for the help.


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Cadillac said:


> Two quick questions;
> 
> 1) Is there a half-decent pipe lighter that you can purchase at a reasonable price? The Old Boys seem nice, but for 100 clams, I'd rather spend that on a pipe. I remember seeing a Ronson pipe lighter once, but haven't seen them since.
> 
> ...


1-I have a Jobon which has worked fine for me. It's the one with the pipe chart on it on this page: http://www.buylighters.com/Pipe-Lighters_c_36.html Looks like they have some others too, the only one I have experience with is the Nibo which looks like an old boy, which is a POS. I know if you want to spend a little more a lot of people like the xikar pipeline, which has a lifetime warranty I believe. 2-I usually just keep them in the tin unless I know it's going to take a while to smoke, in which case I jar it.


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Wow I like the looks of that Lotus Vertigo old boy knockoff. I've had a Lotus torch lighter before and they are pretty good.


----------



## Cadillac (Feb 28, 2007)

Jack Straw said:


> Wow I like the looks of that Lotus Vertigo old boy knockoff. I've had a Lotus torch lighter before and they are pretty good.


Love that Jobon. Might order a couple. The Lotus is out of stock. Thanks bro!


----------



## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

Cadillac said:


> 1) Is there a half-decent pipe lighter that you can purchase at a reasonable price? The Old Boys seem nice, but for 100 clams, I'd rather spend that on a pipe. I remember seeing a Ronson pipe lighter once, but haven't seen them since.


I picked up a Zippo with the pipe-chimney insert, based on recommendations from this forum. I'm a big fan. Works great indoors or outside. Also it's cheap, easily refillable, and classic.

P&C (Zippo Pipe Lighters) sells it. As do most every other online retailer.


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

The Zippos are definitely nice, especially for around town. Really wish I hadn't lost mine.

Here's a review that DavidM did of the Jobon: http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/v...949-jobon-lighter-pipe-cigar-great-value.html


----------



## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

Cadillac said:


> Two quick questions;
> 
> 1) Is there a half-decent pipe lighter that you can purchase at a reasonable price? The Old Boys seem nice, but for 100 clams, I'd rather spend that on a pipe. I remember seeing a Ronson pipe lighter once, but haven't seen them since.


*Old Boy*s are a bit spendy, but it's the last 
lighter you will ever need, if ya don't lose it.
You *will *want one sooner or later, so ya might
as well get one *now*, rather than *after *you've
gone through a half dozen cheaper lighters.


----------



## bhxhhcz (May 30, 2010)

New Peterson B5, and I feel like I'm going to break it trying to get it apart.

I just bought this briar, and it's brand new. I wanted to take it apart to inspect it before I smoke it, and it's not budging. Is there a trick to this, or am I just being a pussy? I feel like with the amount of force I'm using, it should budge. It feels like if I put anymore into it, it's going to break.


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

*Gorgeous* pipe, I love the Harp series. Try putting it in the fridge for a bit, it should come out easier (don't smoke it till it's warmed back up though). Then reassemble with a touch of beeswax, or maybe some chap stick if you can't find any. If it's still to tight, take some fine sandpaper, roll it into a tube, and give it a very brief twist around in the mortise until it is enlarged enough for a perfect fit. Just make sure to do it evenly, and just a tiny bit at a time until the fit is perfect.


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

I too have a Pete Harp (yours is way nicer) and it was similarly delivered with a frozen stem (and a gallon of stain in the bowl - feh). If fridge doesn't work, try the freezer for a while. Remember to always twist a stem in (or out) with a clockwise motion. Unless, of course, it is threaded (like some Kaywoodies, etc.) in which case you'll maybe snap the sumbich clean off in your hand.


----------



## bhxhhcz (May 30, 2010)

Thanks for the tips. I'll report back later with the results.


----------



## lbiislander (Oct 15, 2010)

I don't get to smoke very much. Several weeks ago I participated in the Newbie Trade and received some great things. While at a friends for a smoke the other day, he looked at my samples and said some of them were pretty dry. How do I re-hydrate them and keep them moist? I really don't want to buy a dozen mason jars for the few bowls of each sample I have.


----------



## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

You'll get many answers on this. This is the best and safest method I've found.

Put the tobacco in a large bowl. Take a CLEAN dishtowel and put it under hot running water. Wring out excess water.

Drape the moist towel over the bowl and let the moisture from the towel work it's way into the tobacco. After 15 minutes, take the towel off the tobacco and stir it up, checking the moisture level. If it needs more, repeat the process, placing the towel under the water, placing over bowl, checking every 15 minutes.


I don't like spraying or misting tobacco directly with water. You can develop saturated spots, while not getting any parts moistened at all. Some people put an apple slice in their tobacco, but you're introducing a different flavor into the tobacco, and a non-water moistener.

Just my thoughts. This method has not failed me yet.

WWhermit
ipe:


----------



## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Just a thought - it's possible your friend just likes his tobacco more moist or is used to tobacco that has a lot of PG in it and never really dries out. If they taste fine no reason to mess with it.


----------



## GlassEye (Oct 25, 2009)

Jack Straw said:


> Just a thought - it's possible your friend just likes his tobacco more moist or is used to tobacco that has a lot of PG in it and never really dries out. If they taste fine no reason to mess with it.


That i definitely something to consider.

If your tobacco crumbles/crunches into dust when you pinch it, it is too dry. If it sticks together into a clump when pinched, it is too wet. I prefer mine on the rather dry side.


----------



## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Just found this, one of the best shape charts I've seen.


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

commonsenseman said:


> ...one of the best shape charts I've seen.


I saw yesterday the one at ASP is finally back again - and improved. Click on the litte pipe to see an expanded page...

Shapes Chart


----------



## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

commonsenseman said:


> Just found this, one of the best shape charts I've seen.





Mister Moo said:


> I saw yesterday the one at ASP is finally back again - and improved. Click on the litte pipe to see an expanded page...
> 
> Shapes Chart


Very cool guys, bookmarked! :tu


----------



## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> always twist a stem in (or out) with a clockwise motion.


This one has always confused me. I've seen people recommend only turning clockwise and only turning counterclockwise. Now that Moo has spoken, the matter is settled in my book.

Moo, another question I have is why? Since the tenons are not threaded, why does it make a difference. I ask this as an aspiring pipe maker.


----------



## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

i have a question for corn cob pipe stem cleaning. should you take out the stem? it seems to break off pieces of the cob putting it back in (well not break off but rub some of the cob substance off)


----------



## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

EvoFX said:


> i have a question for corn cob pipe stem cleaning. should you take out the stem? it seems to break off pieces of the cob putting it back in (well not break off but rub some of the cob substance off)


I wouldn't worry too much about it! Just make sure you wait for the pipe to cool off before you remove the stem. Twist and pull gently and rinse off with tap water or a soapy solution.


----------



## Cadillac (Feb 28, 2007)

What's Vaper tobacco?


----------



## ultramag (Aug 23, 2007)

Cadillac said:


> What's Vaper tobacco?


It's an abbreviation for a blend that contains Virginia and Perique tobaccos. Escudo and Samuel Gawith St. James Flake are a couple of the genre's more prominent examples.


----------



## Cadillac (Feb 28, 2007)

ultramag said:


> It's an abbreviation for a blend that contains Virginia and Perique tobaccos. Escudo and Samuel Gawith St. James Flake are a couple of the genre's more prominent examples.


Thanks. Now I get it.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

using alcohol or whiskey on a cob pipe would that ruin it? or can the bowl take it?


also i am thinking of cleaning out my briar that has a terrible taste from sitting around. does putting rubbing alcohol in the bowl for 10 mins and dumping it work?


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## InsidiousTact (Dec 3, 2010)

EvoFX said:


> using alcohol or whiskey on a cob pipe would that ruin it? or can the bowl take it?
> 
> also i am thinking of cleaning out my briar that has a terrible taste from sitting around. does putting rubbing alcohol in the bowl for 10 mins and dumping it work?


I think I swab would be fine, but don't soak it or do a salt treatment.

And first off, you probably shouldn't soak a briar or fill it with liquid, it is wood after all. Second, I prefer to use things that I know my body can ingest. Why not use whiskey, rum, vodka, or my favorite which is everclear. Give it a swab, or if it's really bad try a salt treatment.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

InsidiousTact said:


> ...I prefer to use things that I know my body can ingest...


*Isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol)* point-of-order.

A careful reading of the MSDS for the popular solvent isopropanol (aka isopropyl "rubbing" alcohol) comes up darn clean for our intended use (as a solvent and disinfectant). Isopropyl has a bad rep with pipers that the literature does not support.

It should not be used internally;
inhaling the fumes is a bad idea;
it is highly flammable; and
burns with a nearly invisible flame
Except for the internal use part I think toxicity is irrelevant for our purposes. The 91% version puts more solvent and less water in the bowl than anything else except Everclear 190 (IF you can buy the 190-proof where you live). While higher water content (and longer dry time) booze isn't hardly the worst thing to put in a pipe, either is isopropanol.

While personal preference is a reason not to use it, toxicity claims do not hold water (unlike hygroscopic alcohol).

*Methyl (or wood) alcohol* is a very bad egg especially if absorbed through the skin or ingested in very small amounts. Might as well figure on instant blindness if ingested.

Any chemists in the audience should chime in if anything I've said is not correct.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

I've gone back and forth on isopropyl use - I have used it many times and in the end I think it's perfectly fine provided you give the pipe time to dry out. First off, I'm not dead or blind, so that's a point in its favor. It evaporates very quickly, being such high percentage (provided you get the 91% high test). Half the time if I spill a little drop or two I just blow on it and watch it evaporate in a second rather than wipe it up with a towel.

The thing that also just occurred to me is that many, many people use isopropyl to fuel camping/backpacking alcohol stoves. If the fumes were harmful, I'd imagine someone would have caught on by now. It is also used (as it's primary purpose for being sold in pharmacies) to clean open wounds by probably millions of people around the world each day.

That said, liquor does a fine job, so there's no reason to use isopropyl if you don't want to.


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## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

Mister Moo said:


> *Isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol)* point-of-order.
> 
> A careful reading of the MSDS for the popular solvent isopropanol (aka isopropyl "rubbing" alcohol) comes up darn clean for our intended use (as a solvent and disinfectant). Isopropyl has a bad rep with pipers that the literature does not support.
> 
> ...





Jack Straw said:


> I've gone back and forth on isopropyl use - I have used it many times and in the end I think it's perfectly fine provided you give the pipe time to dry out. First off, I'm not dead or blind, so that's a point in its favor. It evaporates very quickly, being such high percentage (provided you get the 91% high test). Half the time if I spill a little drop or two I just blow on it and watch it evaporate in a second rather than wipe it up with a towel.
> 
> The thing that also just occurred to me is that many, many people use isopropyl to fuel camping/backpacking alcohol stoves. If the fumes were harmful, I'd imagine someone would have caught on by now. It is also used (as it's primary purpose for being sold in pharmacies) to clean open wounds by probably millions of people around the world each day.
> 
> That said, liquor does a fine job, so there's no reason to use isopropyl if you don't want to.


Thanks guys. I just used isopropanol for the first time on a few pipes. I got the generic brand from Walmart (70%). I use round cotton pads that my wife uses to remove makeup instead of salt. They fit nicely in the bowl and the clean up is a cinch. For a deeper cleaning to remove ghosting I will use the salt treatment.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

I don't personally think that salt does a better job than cotton balls for removing ghosts. The alcohol is what's doing the work, the salt/cotton is there just to soak up what the alcohol removes.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

91% is more solvent and less water than the 70% FWIW; it'll ooze more goo and dry faster. shrug.

Speaking of campstoves ("Dad! Stop! I already know this!"), and I know this sounds alarmist, but you really shouldn't be smoking a pipe when you're Everclear- or isopropanol-ing a pipe. It is wise to recap the bottle the instant you've poured or eyedropped or pipecleaner-dipped or whatever it is you're doing. A spill and a spark can be catastrophic in about 1/2 a second with these juices. Also extra bad to have the stuff open with kids or pets around; they are experts at knocking things over. Yo, dog.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

DavidM passed a tip a while ago that he had heard, maybe from Marty Pulvers if memory serves - when you pull out the cotton/salt/whatever from the bowl, carefully dip a match inside the bowl to set the residual alcohol on fire for just a moment. Never tried it myself but it makes sense.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

indigosmoke said:


> Since the tenons are not threaded, why does it make a difference.


Because some old guy told me it does? :ask:

With a meer it's so you don't unscrew some push-pull components. Briar unthreaded? Ask Sasquatch and then tell us all the real skinny. :bolt:


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## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

Jack Straw said:


> I don't personally think that salt does a better job than cotton balls for removing ghosts. The alcohol is what's doing the work, the salt/cotton is there just to soak up what the alcohol removes.


Yes, the alcohol does the work. Using salt will fill the bowl evenly compared to the little spots that can be missed by the cotton pads. With cotton balls you can pack it really tight so this won't be an issue. I just don't like the stringy mess that's left afterward. ipe:


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## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

Mister Moo said:


> 91% is more solvent and less water than the 70% FWIW; it'll ooze more goo and dry faster. shrug.
> 
> Speaking of campstoves ("Dad! Stop! I already know this!"), and I know this sounds alarmist, but you really shouldn't be smoking a pipe when you're Everclear- or isopropanol-ing a pipe. It is wise to recap the bottle the instant you've poured or eyedropped or pipecleaner-dipped or whatever it is you're doing. A spill and a spark can be catastrophic in about 1/2 a second with these juices. Also extra bad to have the stuff open with kids or pets around; they are experts at knocking things over. Yo, dog.


I didn't even look at the alcohol content at the store. I thought they were all the same so just grabbed the cheapest one! :hmm:


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

so i have whiskey and vodka. both at 40%. will whiskey leave a taste behind? if i swapped it. or used cottonballs?


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

I have used whiskey many times and have not noticed any residual flavor.


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## Hermit (Aug 5, 2008)

EvoFX said:


> so i have whiskey and vodka. both at 40%. will whiskey leave a taste behind? if i swapped it. or used cottonballs?


They would be fine, but Everclear has over *twice *
the alcohol and the alcohol is what does the job.


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## InsidiousTact (Dec 3, 2010)

I use everclear so I don't know about the flavoring personally, but dub said that rum or whiskey would leave behind a bit of flavor, but he enjoys that flavor. If you like the whiskey flavors, give it a try.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

i love whiskey flavors, so ill probably do that. though there are times i would not want that, so might have to find myself some everclear. i not sure they sell it in the bayarea? then again i have not really looked. but if not ill just get some cheap vodka if its necessary


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## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

EvoFX said:


> i love whiskey flavors, so ill probably do that. though there are times i would not want that, so might have to find myself some everclear. i not sure they sell it in the bayarea? then again i have not really looked. but if not ill just get some cheap vodka if its necessary


If you have BevMo in the Bay Area, try them. They carry the 151 proof Everclear. For the good stuff, the 190 proof Everclear, I got mine in Oregon.

WWhermit
ipe:


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## cp478 (Oct 23, 2008)

I use either everclear or bacardi 151.
the 151 leaves a very very slight rum residual in the pipe. But it is very faint!


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

How long does the rum taste remain?


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## Slow Triathlete (Jun 14, 2007)

In my opinion it just stuck around for a bowl or two.

I recently switched to Vodka because it has less of an after taste.....if any at all.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

ok, so CA does not legally sell Everclear, but i am going back to school in idaho which does. so i am set then


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

so i cant edit my posts? sorry to double post then. 

is any of the frog morton series aromatic?


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Gentlemen, my problem is that while having a bowl, I (almost) drool like a baby eating his first ever biscuit... out: 2 or 3 puffs and my mouth is full of saliva... What could be the reasons and how to overcome this problem?? :behindsofa:


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## jfdiii (Nov 12, 2010)

If this question has been asked, I apologize for not finding it.
If I am careful is it OK to widen the airway in the stem and shank with a drill bit? I really like the open draws on my cobs and have a few briars that just don't smoke that well.


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## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

EvoFX said:


> so i cant edit my posts? sorry to double post then.
> 
> is any of the frog morton series aromatic?


No, at least in my opinion. Some classify them as english/aromatics, but when I think of aromatics, the "leathery and buttery" taste of latakia falls into the english category, therefore in my opinion, all of the Frog Mortons are english based blends, although with differing characteristics. One (OTB) has a perique base, another uses Syrian tobacco, etc.



Jogi said:


> Gentlemen, my problem is that while having a bowl, I (almost) drool like a baby eating his first ever biscuit... out: 2 or 3 puffs and my mouth is full of saliva... What could be the reasons and how to overcome this problem?? :behindsofa:


The salivation is a response to the nicotine. 2 ways to deal with it.

1. Spit it out, and develop a habit of pipe smoking and spitting.

2. Swallow it. I've found that if you, heh, swallow as opposed to spit, over time you will salivate much less.



jfdiii said:


> If this question has been asked, I apologize for not finding it.
> If I am careful is it OK to widen the airway in the stem and shank with a drill bit? I really like the open draws on my cobs and have a few briars that just don't smoke that well.


I've had 2 pipes "opened up", but these were expensive pipes that I didn't want to damage, so had them sent out. You can certainly do it yourself, but it is recommended to do it in small increments until the desired diameter is reached, and do not use a drill. Put the drill bit into a hand chuck and do it by hand. The walls of stems and pipes are sometimes very thin, and the risk of breaking through a wall is very real.

Hope this all helps you!
WWhermit
ipe:


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Thanks Hermit


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

i hear about cuban cigars  alot. but i never hear anything about pipe tobacco from cuba. i know US has an embargo, but people front out of the country that smoke pipe never say anything about it. is there no market for pipe tobacco from cuba, or do they not make pipe tobacco?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

They do make a pipe tobacco, but it is apparently just the scraps left over from cigar production and according to a Cuban born smoker it's God awful.


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## -R. (Dec 6, 2010)

I have two new pipes, and I plan to dedicate both of them, one to latakia heavy English/Balkan blends, and the other to VA blends.

Here's my question: How strict should I be about the VA dedicated pipe? I know to avoid blends with latakia, perique and the like, but should I avoid any blend that has any other tobacco than Virginia? I plan on getting a tin of JackKnife Plug, but I note that it has Kentucky present. Would that ghost the pipe in such a way that would make dedicating it as a VA pipe pointless?

Also, what are some straight VA tobaccos that I should check out? I have a few from the local tobacconist, as well as C&D's Opening Night. 

Hope this is the right place to ask these quesetions.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

If I had only one pipe for VA's and one for Latakia, I would feel perfectly comfortable smoking VAPers, as well as blends with Kentucky and/or Burley in the VA Pipe.


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## Mitch (Oct 2, 2009)

-R. said:


> I have two new pipes, and I plan to dedicate both of them, one to latakia heavy English/Balkan blends, and the other to VA blends.
> 
> Here's my question: How strict should I be about the VA dedicated pipe? I know to avoid blends with latakia, perique and the like, but should I avoid any blend that has any other tobacco than Virginia? I plan on getting a tin of JackKnife Plug, but I note that it has Kentucky present. Would that ghost the pipe in such a way that would make dedicating it as a VA pipe pointless?
> 
> ...


For straight Va's-FVF and BBF from Samuel Gawith. I have heard a lot of people like G.L. Pease Fillmore and Union Square. I smoke mostly FVF, so I havent tried it yet.

Vapers-Escudo is my favorite, also love McClelland St. James Woods.


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## -R. (Dec 6, 2010)

Jack Straw said:


> If I had only one pipe for VA's and one for Latakia, I would feel perfectly comfortable smoking VAPers, as well as blends with Kentucky and/or Burley in the VA Pipe.


In addition to the pair of new pipes, I have two other briars and a cob. It's just that I hadn't run across the idea of dedicating a pipe until recently, so all the briars have been used to smoke whatever has interested me at the time.

I've been seriously considering doing the salt/alcohol treatment for the briars, just to get them back to a somewhat neutral state.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

WWhermit said:


> The salivation is a response to the nicotine. 2 ways to deal with it.
> 
> 1. Spit it out, and develop a habit of pipe smoking and spitting.
> 
> 2. Swallow it. I've found that if you, heh, swallow as opposed to spit, over time you will salivate much less.


Well I think I found out another reason for so much salivation, * clenching, **trying to look bada$$ :biggrin1: *!! Yesterday was the first time I wasn't doing something else while puffing, just me and The Gentleman. So, I didn't clench, held the pipe in my hand all the time and I tell you my salivation didn't go into overdrive *for once* during the whole 40 minutes... I guess I'll try clenching later when I've got my techniques down... 

Another thing, how exactly would you gentlemen "define" tongue-burn? I either get a mildly tingly sensation (like when you take the first sip of a particularly strong soda) or if trying to keep lit by puffing to hard, I'll be like :target:... Are both sensations just different levels of tongue-burn??


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

i have a question on storing. i have a few mason jars left and alot of tobacco. would it be fine to keep the tobacco in the bags and stick a few bags into a jar instead of dumping the tobacco (i only have 3 jars left). or would that affect the flavor at all?


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

EvoFX said:


> i have a question on storing. i have a few mason jars left and alot of tobacco. would it be fine to keep the tobacco in the bags and stick a few bags into a jar instead of dumping the tobacco (i only have 3 jars left). or would that affect the flavor at all?


I think for short term storage if you put like tobaccos with each other it would be ok. You don't want to do it long term though because they will eventually impart flavors to each other.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

owaindav said:


> I think for short term storage if you put like tobaccos with each other it would be ok. You don't want to do it long term though because they will eventually impart flavors to each other.


ya itll be for a short while till i can get some more jars.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Gents this is my MM Diplomat I got a while ago:










As you can see, the shank is _twisted_ to the right side. Is there going to be any problem with how it smokes? If so, what can be done to fix it? (Un-gluing it to fix it in place isn't really an option for me cuz I'm all thumbs...)


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## ultramag (Aug 23, 2007)

Jogi said:


> As you can see, the shank is _twisted_ to the right side. Is there going to be any problem with how it smokes? If so, what can be done to fix it? (Un-gluing it to fix it in place isn't really an option for me cuz I'm all thumbs...)


Most likely you won't notice much difference if any. I'd smoke it and see how it smokes as it would be more hassle to try and return than fix IMO. Do you think you you could whittle out some of the high side without cutting off one of those I assume 10 thumbs? :scared: If so you might clean up the high end of the shank that forms the draught hole if you think it's a concern after smoking a few bowls and then try it again. If your still not happy with it after trimming the excess perhaps a little pipe mud would seal the deal.

My thoughts on it anyway. As I said first, I expect it will be a non-issue for the most part.


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## Mr. Moustache (Jan 23, 2011)

Hey I have a question about my first Meerschaum pipe. If at some point I need to clean the outside of my bowl with something a little more potent than just a soft t-shirt I'd like to know if you guys have tried anything with success. I have read numerous things like you can use rubbing alcohol or you absolutely shouldn't use rubbing alcohol to odd things like using barbasol branded shaving cream on the bowl of the pipe. Can someone steer me in the right direction?


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## thebayratt (Jun 4, 2009)

Whats a system pipe?

Whats a basket pipe?


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

A basket pipe is one that is usually machine made in larger quantities. Sometimes they're seconds. Most have no name on them for whatever reason. Maybe it didn't make quality to have the company's name stamped, etc.

I know of 2 system pipes, Peterson and Savinelli. They have a well in the shank right below the hole in the tobacco chamber to collect moisture. Savs use a balsa insert to soak that up. They are supposed to keep the smoke dryer and cooler and keep the "gurgle" out.


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

Mr. Moustache said:


> Hey I have a question about my first Meerschaum pipe. If at some point I need to clean the outside of my bowl with something a little more potent than just a soft t-shirt I'd like to know if you guys have tried anything with success. I have read numerous things like you can use rubbing alcohol or you absolutely shouldn't use rubbing alcohol to odd things like using barbasol branded shaving cream on the bowl of the pipe. Can someone steer me in the right direction?


Chase, I'd pm Granger for info on meers. I think he almost exclusively smokes meers. So I imagine he's got a pretty good line on how to care for them.


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## thebayratt (Jun 4, 2009)

Ok, thanks Dave! 
Makes sense now!


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## Rock31 (Sep 30, 2010)

So after going back and forth for a few weeks I need to give the pipe a try. Can I go on 4noggins and just order a corn cob and a tin and be set, what else would I need? Can I use wooden matches to light? Or a soft flame like a Bic? All my cigar lighters are torch and I assume those are pretty bad for a pipe.


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## Jivey (Dec 6, 2010)

You could go on 4noggins and order a tin... or you can sign up for the NPS trade and send someone a tin and receive a bunch of different tobaccos to try out. I suggest doing that because you don't want your first experience to be hampered by being stuck with a tin of stuff you don't like. With the NPS you will be able to try a bunch and figure out what tin you would like to buy in your next order. 

A bic will work. But if that's all you have I would suggest matches. Your thumb will thank you. ;-) If you have a Zippo you can order a pipe insert for it and that can work as well. Welcome to the pipe side!


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## Habanolover (Feb 22, 2006)

Rock31 said:


> So after going back and forth for a few weeks I need to give the pipe a try. Can I go on 4noggins and just order a corn cob and a tin and be set, what else would I need? Can I use wooden matches to light? Or a soft flame like a Bic? All my cigar lighters are torch and I assume those are pretty bad for a pipe.


Ray, besides the pipe and baccy you may want to get a pipe tool. You can get one for a couple of dollars. Wooden matches are fine as is a soft flame lighter.

Enjoy the new slope! :lol:

EDIT: Or you can do the NPS


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## Rock31 (Sep 30, 2010)

Something like this?

CZECH PIPE TOOL

And if I like the pipe I will do the NPS, just want to get a feel for things first before I have someone get together a nice sample for me and I just can't get into it. I don't like the look of corn cobs either but it just makes sense to start with one, a $10 loss I can handle LOL! Thanks guys!


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## Habanolover (Feb 22, 2006)

The Czech is a great little tool. :tu


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## Cpuless (Aug 8, 2009)

Don't forget the pipe cleaners. You will want em for cleaning or if your pipe is getting a gurgle.


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## Rock31 (Sep 30, 2010)

Thanks guys for the help 

Now to wait for my special delivery!


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

has anyone tried the Mcclellands AM Pipe or the Early Morning Dunhill match on pipes and cigars? 

is it close to the EMP?


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

EvoFX said:


> has anyone tried the Mcclellands AM Pipe or the Early Morning Dunhill match on pipes and cigars?
> 
> is it close to the EMP?


I have tried the EMP match on P&C. It's not too bad. Pretty close match.


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## Cadillac (Feb 28, 2007)

Ok, so I just got in my brand new pipe. It's a big sucker. Baronet 619. I'll post pics later. Not sure if I'm going to dedicate this pipe to any specific blend, but would like to know if there is any specific blend that is better for seasoning a pipe than others? Thanks in advance....


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## Habanolover (Feb 22, 2006)

Cadillac said:


> Ok, so I just got in my brand new pipe. It's a big sucker. Baronet 619. I'll post pics later. Not sure if I'm going to dedicate this pipe to any specific blend, but would like to know if there is any specific blend that is better for seasoning a pipe than others? Thanks in advance....


Chris, my understanding is that a burley will help to form cake quicker but I really don't know if it is enough to make a difference. :noidea:


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## Cadillac (Feb 28, 2007)

Habanolover said:


> Chris, my understanding is that a burley will help to form cake quicker but I really don't know if it is enough to make a difference. :noidea:


I guess what I'm wondering is if there are certain blends I should stay away from that will significantly "ghost" my pipe if I decide to dedicate it later on.....

Or am I just being too picky i.e. smoke what the heck I want. :madgrin:


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

Cadillac said:


> I guess what I'm wondering is if there are certain blends I should stay away from that will significantly "ghost" my pipe if I decide to dedicate it later on.....
> 
> Or am I just being too picky i.e. smoke what the heck I want. :madgrin:


latakia blends will ghost a pipe. aromatics will as well. anything else, I personally don't separate.


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

I'd stick to Virginias and Burleys for non-ghosting. 

Anything Aromatic or Lakeland, or blends containing Latakia or orientals can ghost.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

are english considered virginias? or they just the different regions


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

English blends contain Virginia leaf, but also other tobacco, which is where their ghosting comes from.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

My turn now: why are McClelland's tins so old? How is it that I can order Blackwoods Flake and it's already four years old by the date stamp? Is this really an unpopular blend or something? Or does C&D and GLP just have a much better handle on inventory than McClellands?


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Okay, here's an easier one...if a Delorean leaves Chicago heading east at 88 MPH, in what year does it arrive in New York?


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## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

MarkC said:


> Okay, here's an easier one...if a Delorean leaves Chicago heading east at 88 MPH, in what year does it arrive in New York?


2007. 
Which, coincidentally, is how P&C is able to keep four-year-old Blackwoods in stock.


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

MarkC said:


> My turn now: why are McClelland's tins so old? How is it that I can order Blackwoods Flake and it's already four years old by the date stamp? Is this really an unpopular blend or something? Or does C&D and GLP just have a much better handle on inventory than McClellands?


 I believe McClellands holds certain blends back for a while to age them before release. And remember, there are fewer people buying pipe tobacco than cigars. Sometimes a particular store will have tins of a particular blend sit around for a while. Be happy you got a well aged tin for the normal price.


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## FiveStar (Jan 7, 2010)

MarkC said:


> My turn now: why are McClelland's tins so old? How is it that I can order Blackwoods Flake and it's already four years old by the date stamp? Is this really an unpopular blend or something? Or does C&D and GLP just have a much better handle on inventory than McClellands?





ChronoB said:


> I believe McClellands holds certain blends back for a while to age them before release. And remember, there are fewer people buying pipe tobacco than cigars. Sometimes a particular store will have tins of a particular blend sit around for a while. Be happy you got a well aged tin for the normal price.


I was wondering about this! I've avoided the McClellands blends for now bacause of their ketchup scent, but have been tempted by some '06 Dark star at the B&M. I talked to the owner today, and he told me those tins were only received from the distributor 2 months ago. Seems they keep their stock around for a while as stated above.

Either way, I may have to pull the trigger. For a tin at regular (B&M) price with now 5 years on them, they're well on their way to some real age.


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

MarkC said:


> My turn now: why are McClelland's tins so old? How is it that I can order Blackwoods Flake and it's already four years old by the date stamp? Is this really an unpopular blend or something? Or does C&D and GLP just have a much better handle on inventory than McClellands?


I have a theory about the McCletchup tins and age, well, two theories really.

(1) They do a massive production run for each blend. Then they end up with 30, 40, 50,000 tins. Obviously much more than the market can bear, so they get warehoused for years until distributors call for them.

OR

(2) The warehouse fellas are doing FILO (First In Last Out) stacking, during the "quiet" days of past the stuff from the front of the warehouse was being added/removed, and the stuff in the back stayed that way. With the recent last few years of pipe renewal and panic buying, they have been dipping deeper into the dark recesses of the warehouse, and turning out the old stuff.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

Question....


So my friend just bought a corn cob and I noticed that the shank goes into the bowl a little bit high. Will this be a problem in the future? i guess tobacco will get stuck under the shank? and not sure how easy it will be to get it out when cleaning it with my tools. or is this something that we should not worry about?


----------



## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

EvoFX said:


> Question....
> 
> So my friend just bought a corn cob and I noticed that the shank goes into the bowl a little bit high. Will this be a problem in the future? i guess tobacco will get stuck under the shank? and not sure how easy it will be to get it out when cleaning it with my tools. or is this something that we should not worry about?


Nature of the beast that low spot, same as the taste of burning pine you experience at the end of a smoke while that bit of wooden shank inside the chamber chars out (over 3-5 smokes).

Cobs will end up with unburned tobacco in the heel - called dottle - quite often. It can be cleaned out, left as a soggy mess or pre-empted by filling the low spot with "pipe mud", a putty-like (not wet) conconction made from mashed up cigar ash and spit. See more at: http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/pipe-related-reviews/270323-mudding-hackert-corncob-pipe.html

In the linked example of mudding above, the mud was too wet - make mud to a drier consistency. It fills low spots and works fine.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

awesome! thanks, i read that the caking does not work as well. As you said in that thread, it only lasted a few weeks? or should we just be careful when scrapping it?


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## WWhermit (Nov 30, 2008)

I don't worry about that little heel under the shank. Dottle builds up, no worries. It's never bothered me smoking out of my cobs.

WWhermit
ipe:


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## Zeb Zoober (Oct 31, 2009)

OK, I decided to give pipe smoking a try. Just ordered a couple of briar pipes, tools, cleaners, sampler tins, etc. Total startup cost - $126. I could have went cheaper, but like the pipes. They were not too expensive. Thought they were a happy medium between cob and more expensive briars.

Forgive me if this has been asked in this looong thread, but what is the best or easy way to store the tobacco? I have plenty of spare humidors - will these work? What kind of temp/humidity should it all be stored at?

Any special things I should know about storing the pipes?


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

Pipe tobacco can be stored in canning jars, no humidification needed.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Zeb Zoober said:


> OK, I decided to give pipe smoking a try...
> ...Any special things I should know about storing the pipes?


Clean out the bowl and stem after it cools - fluffy pipecleaners do the trick, mostly. Remove unburned tobacco, ash and excess moisture. A spit-dampened paper towel or paper napkin is good for cleaning the pipe rim of tar. Leave it out of direct sun to dry for the next round.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Hey Everyone,
This is my first post here. I finally finished the entire thread and it has been quite the head spinner, kind of like the one you get from nicotine! What an amazing collection of information. 

For now, I think I am just going to smoke my MM (because I am too snobbish to call it a corn cob pipe) and learn to pack, light, smoke and enjoy . I can worry about the minutia of pipe cleaning after I get my first briar. Sheesh, Is it just me or do I see too many people worried about their $5 cobs...Apparently they never smoked cigars at $15 a pop . 

My brief nicotine history started a bit over 20 years ago with cigarettes and dip, then I quit the cigs about 7 years ago. To supplement my innate need to smoke occasionally, I picked up cigars and probably smoke 2-3 times per week for about 4 years, then we had kids so that dropped drastically, so did my interested in keeping my humidor up so I have wasted hundreds of dollars in cigars over the past couple years. Anyway, I recently decided to take up the "art of pipes", mainly because most people I hang around with do not smoke, so to them cigars are just obnoxious smelling. Pipes will allow me to enjoy that outside get together, or the firepit without others being turned off. 

That was until I started reading, now the art and hobby side is kicking in and my hobby (OCD) seems to be taking over. The good news for the wife is, I am not one to jump head first in without putting my toe in the water. However once I know the water is good, then I tend to do a cannonball like a 10 year old into the deepest part of the river during the hottest day of the summer.

Anyway, two bowls in and I am happily on my way to joining the community. Here are my requisite questions since there is not a newb forum: 

1. What do you find to be a good pace between your draws? I find to short of time between them and the bowl is too hot, to much time and the fire extinguishes. To me it seems like the proper pace may be between what I used to smoke cigs at, and what I smoke cigars at. 

2. If a-squared plus b-squared equals c-squared, then how does e equal mc-squared? (Just kidding I only had one question, but I wanted to seem inquisitive and whitty).


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

1. I just go with what seems natural. You've already discovered what slows you down if you go to fast; the going to slow and having the pipe go out will become second nature fairly quickly.

2. You forgot to carry the 'd'.

Welcome aboard!


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Thanks Mark,

Believe it or not, I think I found a good pace tonight, after my 3rd ever bowl I had a bit of beginners luck (can you hear the slot machines going off like I do?). I was able to successfully smoke the bowl with no re-lights. 

I am sure this wont happen again and I really had to work at it, but I felt a little more connected to the baccy and would adjust using a few of the tricks I learned on here and from youtube. After watching some videos on packing, and the initial lighting sequence the first 1/2 of the bowl was pretty easy to maintain. The 2nd 1/2 was bit more of a pain, but the whole "stoking the fire" trick worked well. It felt a little bit like slight of hand, but hey I will take it as a win. Only one tongue bite about 3/4 into the smoke when I felt the smoke get too thin. 

Another question, I found that the taste got a bit sweeter (better) toward the second half, despite my troubles. Is this normal, or am I doing something wrong at the beginning?


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## User Name (Feb 11, 2011)

jader said:


> Another question, I found that the taste got a bit sweeter (better) toward the second half, despite my troubles. Is this normal, or am I doing something wrong at the beginning?


Tobaccos usually tend to change halfway through the bowl, just like a cigar's flavor is usually divided into three sections. I always notice the virginias (sweetness) in the tobacco a lot more after the halfway point than in the beginning. Flavor change means you're doing it right.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

No relights on the third ever bowl? You are no longer allowed to ask questions! You're so far ahead of the curve it's ridiculous!!


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Thanks User Name, I had not heard that before, and in fact my first purchase was a Virginia blend with a little bit of vanilla from my local shop. 

Mark,
I write it off to beginners luck and a lot of attention to the bowl. Plus I think getting the initial light correct really, really helped. One of the video's I watched, I noticed a self sustained, short lived, blue flame on the top of the tobacco during the charring light, so I used that as my indicator. Then after the real light, the video showed that instead of a 3rd hit with flame, you should use the tamp.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

As I thought, it was beginners luck to have no relights. Tonight I had 4 relights, but I was trying to "stress" less over keeping it lit so it was a more enjoyable smoke. 

So another question, do you guys normally let the smoke roll out of your mouth at a much slower rate than cigars? I found a whole new set of taste-buds firing if I let the smoke linger instead of blowing the smoke out at the same way I would a cigar.


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

IMHO playing with the smoke in your mouth helps build the palate. Its another side effect of learning to blow rings. :lol:


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

What a FANTASTIC thread. I just finished reading the whole thing.

I'm a cigar guy who is gradually getting into pipes. Got a couple of questions and a couple of answers ;D

Someone asked about lighters a few pages ago. I've been using a Vector Thunderbird, and it's working great so far. It's got the styling of a Zippo, but uses butane. Also, you can buy just the insert if you have a favorite Zippo you'd like to convert to butane. I bought mine here - Vector Lighters It's the same website that sells Forever Stems for MM's.

Incidentally, I don't remember Forever Stems being mentioned here. Forever Stems are Lucite and vulcanite stems for MM corncob pipes. I've got a lucite one and I'm loving it: 'Forever' Stems

Ok, here's my question. I'm going to need Mason jars soon. What size jars do you suggest? Like, say......what size jar will hold about a tin's worth? Is bigger better? Or is it best to keep the jar nearly full for longer term storage? Or does it matter?

THANKS!!!!!!


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

The half pint ones are about the size of a tin; I prefer them to the larger size so I'm not opening a big honkin' jar of tobacco when I open one. Gotta keep as much of it aging as I can! The widemouth ones are easier for accessing the tobacco.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

MarkC said:


> The half pint ones are about the size of a tin; I prefer them to the larger size so I'm not opening a big honkin' jar of tobacco when I open one. Gotta keep as much of it aging as I can! The widemouth ones are easier for accessing the tobacco.


Awesome! Thanks!!!


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Blue_2 said:


> IMHO playing with the smoke in your mouth helps build the palate. Its another side effect of learning to blow rings. :lol:


Thanks Blue the taste difference was surprising as I let it roll out. On a side note, I have been a baccy user for many years so blowing rings is second nature these days, but making rings from the bowl is my newest fun. A little cheek tapping is fun.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

gahdzila said:


> Awesome! Thanks!!!


I bought a couple yesterday from Walmart, the item I bought were labelled 10oz, and I figure it will probably hold about 3 oz. They are pull off, not screw off, and the opening was big enough for me to get in there fine.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

i have a question about some new corn cobs i have received.

when smoking them, i get this chemical taste. and i get it from just about any tobacco. the bowl is smaller than my MM's but i do not think it should be a terrible taste. 

i have noticed a bit of the coating is in the pipe for some, could that be the reason? does that give off a bad taste? and if that is the problem, how do i get ride of it. its to a point i cant even smoke it anymore


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

What brand of cob are they?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

gahdzila said:


> Awesome! Thanks!!!


I like the *squat* 8 ounce ball jars. Just bought 4 of them to try them out and they're great for long flakes, just sort of wind 'em around in there. Get about 4 oz. tobacco per 8 ounce jar. Gonna get a bunch of them. Buck apiece.. Probably could save a few bucks if you bought 'em by the case, but I only saw 4 jar bunches.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> i have a question about some new corn cobs i have received.
> 
> when smoking them, i get this chemical taste. and i get it from just about any tobacco. the bowl is smaller than my MM's but i do not think it should be a terrible taste.
> 
> i have noticed a bit of the coating is in the pipe for some, could that be the reason? does that give off a bad taste? and if that is the problem, how do i get ride of it. its to a point i cant even smoke it anymore


First, clean it out with a pipe cleaner. Sometimes there are pine shavings in the shank of a new pipe which will "toast". Second, don't sweat it! The pine stem has to break in. When you start to taste the turpentine, dump it. It takes maybe 5 or 10 bowls before it goes away, but all cobs start with the smell of burning pine -- at least I think it's pine. After it goes away, they smoke great!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

jader said:


> As I thought, it was beginners luck to have no relights. Tonight I had 4 relights, but I was trying to "stress" less over keeping it lit so it was a more enjoyable smoke.


Wow. Four relights on a clumsy bowl. Sounds like a future slow-smoke champion in the making.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

Blue_2 said:


> What brand of cob are they?


not sure, got it off ebay. there defiantly not MM or anything i have seen, probably some knock off for all i know



freestoke said:


> First, clean it out with a pipe cleaner. Sometimes there are pine shavings in the shank of a new pipe which will "toast". Second, don't sweat it! The pine stem has to break in. When you start to taste the turpentine, dump it. It takes maybe 5 or 10 bowls before it goes away, but all cobs start with the smell of burning pine -- at least I think it's pine. After it goes away, they smoke great!


most of the cobs that i have never had this problem, so i am assuming this is a cheap cob? also what about the glaze going into the bowl? i can see yellow were it dried half way down, does that affect the taste or wait for the cake to cover?


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Personally, my approach would be to chuck them in the trash and pick up some Missouri Meerschaums. Sounds kind of scary to me.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

very tempted to do so. few more smokes then there out of here. it did come with one MM, so i cant complain that it was a total failure. but now i know what to stick with..


also another question.

Is there some technique in not biting the stem? i drive with it in the mouth and walk around, so i dont want to invest in something in the future and have bit marks all over the stem. Or is this something i will just have to learn over time?


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

'Clenching' is something that you and your dental work will have to figure out. Try different angles until you find a good one. Heavier straight pipes aren't good candidates for it.

The stems are also replaceable by both OEM and improved aftermarket ones. (I prefer the aftermarket 'Forever Stems' by Walker Briar Works)


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Blue_2 said:


> (I prefer the aftermarket 'Forever Stems' by Walker Briar Works)


 You only need one for all your filter-type cobs, too. Cobs become like Falcons, one stem, many bowls. And you dispense with that nasty filter nonsense.

I like to put some heat shrink tubing on the Forever stem, too, for easier clenching.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

EvoFX said:


> Is there some technique in not biting the stem? i drive with it in the mouth and walk around, so i dont want to invest in something in the future and have bit marks all over the stem. Or is this something i will just have to learn over time?


If there is, I haven't found it. None of my 'normal' pipes have teeth marks, but my cobs end up with seriously chewed up stems. I'm going to have to get one of those forever stems...


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

I use softies on all my normal pipes, and the only reason I don't use them on my cobs is because the stem is too narrow and they slid around. I can't stand the sensation of biting down on that hard plastic.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Commander Quan said:


> I use softies on all my normal pipes, and the only reason I don't use them on my cobs is because the stem is too narrow and they slid around. I can't stand the sensation of biting down on that hard plastic.


Heat shrink tubing. Much better than softies. You can get a narrower size for the little cob bits, but the Forever stem is really the answer.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

I have a 4 3/4 inch Lucite Forever Stem and it's awesome. 

I also noticed you can buy the original MM stems for around .50 cents each.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

gahdzila said:


> I have a 4 3/4 inch Lucite Forever Stem and it's awesome.
> 
> I also noticed you can buy the original MM stems for around .50 cents each.


forever stem looks great..could be a possible purchase, and were are you looking at these stems? ebay? MM site?

plus i gotta learn to stop clenching when turning corners when driving i guess. practice makes perfect:boohoo:


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

The way I clench, I usually lever the bit between my teeth - the outside edge of the bottom tooth acts as fulcrum, the button hooks on the top tooth which counterbalances the bowl. Doesn't require a lot of pressure to keep it in there. Then with a full-bent dangler I just hook it on the bottom tooth and you don't even need to apply any pressure from above at all. Maybe it's just the way my teeth are, but I don't have any notable bite marks on any of my stems that I've noticed.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

EvoFX said:


> forever stem looks great..could be a possible purchase, and were are you looking at these stems? ebay? MM site?
> 
> plus i gotta learn to stop clenching when turning corners when driving i guess. practice makes perfect:boohoo:


Which one? The Forever Stems are only available one place (that I know of) - 'Forever' Stems

The original plastic replacement stems are available at many places that sell MM pipes:
mars cigars & pipes - Corncob


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## lbiislander (Oct 15, 2010)

Jack Straw said:


> The way I clench, I usually lever the bit between my teeth - the outside edge of the bottom tooth acts as fulcrum, the button hooks on the top tooth which counterbalances the bowl. Doesn't require a lot of pressure to keep it in there. Then with a full-bent dangler I just hook it on the bottom tooth and you don't even need to apply any pressure from above at all. Maybe it's just the way my teeth are, but I don't have any notable bite marks on any of my stems that I've noticed.


That's cuz you're from Brooklyn. LOL!!


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

my corn cob is starting to get black spots on the outside of the bowl. i noticed there are very small cracks. is this something that happens much? it doesnt seem to be a burnout, or atleast what i can tell. and it still smokes fine. i am just curious about the spots and if this happens to any other cob smoker


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

I got a 2nd cob the other day and noticed that it has a hole by the stem. If I put my hand over the bowl and blow into the mouth piece air will come out. Should i throw it away, or is it ok to keep?


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Sorry, another question. I noticed the other day while smoking one of those cherry aro's (I know please dont hang me) that if I draw the smoke on to the tip of my tongue I get a lot more flavor. Normally, the smoke just hits the mid/back of my tongue. How do you guys normally keep your tongue when smoking?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

jader said:


> I got a 2nd cob the other day and noticed that it has a hole by the stem. If I put my hand over the bowl and blow into the mouth piece air will come out. Should i throw it away, or is it ok to keep?


Elmer's glue. Even if the shank pops out, you can glue it back in there with Elmers. You can even use Elmer's to close cracks along the shank which sometimes develop.


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## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

jader said:


> I got a 2nd cob the other day and noticed that it has a hole by the stem. If I put my hand over the bowl and blow into the mouth piece air will come out. Should i throw it away, or is it ok to keep?


If the hole is on the plastic part of the stem, you should just pick up a replacement stem (> $1). If it's on the cob shank, then you have several options to fill the hole. It's just a cob, so a piece of tape would be my choice. Or you could use pipe mud, or various compounds.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Thanks Captain and Freestoke, 
The hole is on the bowl by the shank. I dont intend on spending a whole lot of effort for a $5 MM Cob. I will either go with the tape or the glue. 

Just curious if the glue is safe and i I should let it dry for longer than the recommended time listed on the product?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

jader said:


> Thanks Captain and Freestoke,
> The hole is on the bowl by the shank. I dont intend on spending a whole lot of effort for a $5 MM Cob. I will either go with the tape or the glue.
> 
> Just curious if the glue is safe and i I should let it dry for longer than the recommended time listed on the product?


Elmer's is totally non-toxic, wouldn't worry about anything. It's not going to get in the smoke stream anyhow, so you won't taste it either. Kindergartners use it and probably eat at least a little of it on the way. I'd think half an hour or so should do it -- it dries pretty quick. Just pack a little glue in there and maybe around the whole stem where it enters the bowl. Clean up the excess with a damp paper towel and you should be good to go!


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

jader said:


> Sorry, another question. I noticed the other day while smoking one of those cherry aro's (I know please dont hang me) that if I draw the smoke on to the tip of my tongue I get a lot more flavor. Normally, the smoke just hits the mid/back of my tongue. How do you guys normally keep your tongue when smoking?


Tongue has many uses but not of tremendous value for pipe smoking. Tongue is good for sweet, bitter, salt, sour and, perhaps, savory. The nose is where I find pipe "taste" - it is all in the snork, sir.

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/v...728-viva-la-snorking-also-how-nose-smoke.html


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Mister Moo said:


> The nose is where I find pipe "taste" - it is all in the snork, sir.


Yep! The nose knows.

That fifth receptor you're looking for is "umami". Senses amino acids, lets you know you're eating meat or cheese.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Thanks Fella's, I will have to have that page open when I am smoking. Do you guys usually draw in through your nose at the same time as you draw in through your mouth?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

jader said:


> Thanks Fella's, I will have to have that page open when I am smoking. Do you guys usually draw in through your nose at the same time as you draw in through your mouth?


No. Fill your mouth with smoke as if you're taking a long sip through a straw. You should not be breathing in when you are drawing on the pipe. All the action takes place after you have a mouthful of smoke. Chew it, snork it, swallow it, etc. Inhaling smoke is not a good idea with any number of blends. You can inhale something like Prince Albert, but you might need medical assistance if you tried that with Tambolaka. I never inhale a pipe, except a French inhale.

French inhaling is blowing the smoke out through your mouth while inhaling some of the smoke stream coming from your mouth through your nose. I do that pretty often. Basically, you move smoke out of your mouth by "squeezing" it out with your mouth and tongue.


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## Firedawg (Nov 8, 2010)

freestoke said:


> Elmer's glue. Even if the shank pops out, you can glue it back in there with Elmers. You can even use Elmer's to close cracks along the shank which sometimes develop.


My neighbor uses electric tape! it works. He only smokes cobs and they fall apart before he buys another.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Firedawg said:


> My neighbor uses electric tape! it works.


Why not red duct tape? Spruce up the appearance even more! Cobs are so elegant to begin with. Maybe it would match the bandaid holding your neighbor's glasses together, too -- sort of a blood and skin-tone theme? :thumb:


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## User Name (Feb 11, 2011)

freestoke said:


> Why not red duct tape? Spruce up the appearance even more! Cobs are so elegant to begin with. Maybe it would match the bandaid holding your neighbor's glasses together, too -- sort of a blood and skin-tone theme? :thumb:


or gum.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

User Name said:


> or gum.


YES! Cherry, to compliment the Cherry Blend!


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## Cadillac (Feb 28, 2007)

Question: What's so special about Dunhill pipes? :noidea:


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Cadillac said:


> Question: What's so special about Dunhill pipes? :noidea:


Nowadays? Not so much. They're still very nice, well made pipes, but they're terribly overpriced. Prior to 1968 or so Dunhill bowls were oil-cured, turned and finished in house by skilled, long-employed Dunhill craftsmen. In the 50s and 60s they were the class of the pipe world.

After 1968 or so things started to change at Dunhill, and I've been told in the 80s and 90s the pipes were a far cry from their heyday, although still nice pipes. Today's Dunhill are beautiful, well-made pipes, but there is little to distinguish them from anyone else. If you're interested in an English pipe you can get an Ashton, Ferndown, or Northern Briars that's oil-cured (except for Northern Briars) with hand made British craftsmanship for a lot less than a Dunhill.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

ChronoB said:


> Nowadays? Not so much. They're still very nice, well made pipes, but they're terribly overpriced. Prior to 1968 or so Dunhill bowls were oil-cured, turned and finished in house by skilled, long-employed Dunhill craftsmen. In the 50s and 60s they were the class of the pipe world.


Another good argument for estate pipes, but in the case of Dunhill they're still very pricey.

The Sasieni pipes of the time were exceptional quality as well. They can be found a lot cheaper and are every bit as good as the Dunhills, in my opinion. Sasieni worked for Dunhill, then left and started his own business, with especial attention to the curing of the briar, cooking it in ovens at a controlled temperature and hiring workmen to wipe them off on schedule for weeks. They were the driest smoking pipes around. There are those who say the old Sasieni's are the equal of Dunhills. I for one. I've owned both, currently have a 1960s vintage Dunhill and 3 "pre-Transition" Sasienis. I once owned another Dunhill and it wasn't as good as my Sasieni Four Dot at the time, which I also no longer have. sigh.

I have no interest in driving up the price, but if the Dunhills are overrated, then Sasieni is equally underrated.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

freestoke said:


> Why not red duct tape? Spruce up the appearance even more! Cobs are so elegant to begin with. Maybe it would match the bandaid holding your neighbor's glasses together, too -- sort of a blood and skin-tone theme? :thumb:


I wish I would have seen this before I put the glue on. Man that would have been one sweet custom job. I think you guys would be jealous, and I am sure i could have sold it on Ebay as a custom for tons of money.

Maybe I need to create a few web pages, stating how much these "rare" items are, create my own little monogram, then post them. The SpecialJ circa '12.


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## Troutman22 (Feb 2, 2011)

Here is my question:
(Ok not realy a question but I think it belongs in the thread)

Please agree or disagree with this statement concerning cellaring:
ANYTHING that is not in a peel off topped tin needs to go in a Mason jar.

And please state any reasons.


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

Troutman22 said:


> Here is my question:
> (Ok not realy a question but I think it belongs in the thread)
> 
> Please agree or disagree with this statement concerning cellaring:
> ...


Any baccy that is not in a "factory sealed" tin (be it round, square, pull, pop, crackle) needs to go into a mason jar for long term storage/cellaring. Tins remained sealed indefinitely, some types may be a little more fragile than others, or susceptible to rust, etc - but a tin is a tin, of course of course.


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## JHCsci (Feb 6, 2011)

I figured this would be the right place to ask this question and not start a new thread...

I've been smoking pipes for a while and recently got into it more than ever. I mostly smoked ribbon cut in the past and now I have been trying flakes. I'm finding that when I smoke a virginia flake (stonehaven, Bright CR flake, FVF) that I don't get great flavor. I am often relighting despite letting them dry out. I have used the stuff method and also rubbed them out. It starts to smell burnt. I've tried meerschaum pipes, good briar pipes, and still the same case. I know you are supposed to puff lightly on these tobaccos, but I still can't seem to keep the flavor from getting burnt. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks!


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## Zfog (Oct 16, 2010)

I am officially permanently subscribed to this thread! :bounce:


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

JHCsci said:


> I figured this would be the right place to ask this question and not start a new thread...
> 
> I've been smoking pipes for a while and recently got into it more than ever. I mostly smoked ribbon cut in the past and now I have been trying flakes. I'm finding that when I smoke a virginia flake (stonehaven, Bright CR flake, FVF) that I don't get great flavor.
> Thanks!


Flakes seem to need to be drier than ribbon to burn well. Smoke a bowl after letting it dry for half an hour, then try the other with an hour to dry. The horrible part about this advice is that all flakes don't dry at the same rate, taste better more/less dried, and so forth. Still, if you experiment around with it, you start to get a feel for how flakes burn.

Then there's the lighting problem. Put a match to Prince Albert and you're good to go. Even a dry flake can be finicky to light fully and can merrily burn down the middle or one side and it's like smoking a "light" cigarette, with those little holes in the filter. Basically, you draw a lot of air around the ember, making the smoke thin. This sort of problem is easily remedied with a tamper and relight with ribbon, because the charring light allows the creation of a smooth surface that you can light evenly over the surface, giving you a good ember. No such luck with flake, especially a fold and stuff. Flake tends to really puff up over the rim, too. Tamp it back down and light it again. And maybe even again. Don't worry about heating things up for a minute at the beginning, that's not going to make the rest of the bowl burn hot. Get a full fledged ember going and then you can back off of it and enjoy the smoke. The nice thing about flake is that once you do get all the strands started, the sucker will stay lit with very little effort. Conversely, if you don't get a good solid start, flakes have a tendency to run down a few strands without setting the surround fuel on fire. You draw hard, it burns hot, straight down till it hits the bottom, leaving half the tobacco untouched.

Another thing to try is damping, using your thumb or two fingers or even a matchbook over the bowl, forcing the draft to be drawn in around the edges. This tends to distribute the airflow through the pack and encourages the ember to spread out and cover more of the top surface of the burn pile.


----------



## skydvejam (Feb 27, 2011)

freestoke said:


> Another thing to try is damping, using your thumb or two fingers or even a matchbook over the bowl, forcing the draft to be drawn in around the edges. This tends to distribute the airflow through the pack and encourages the ember to spread out and cover more of the top surface of the burn pile.


I too have done that, at least when I first started smoking a pipe, well before I found this forum. I will still do something like this when it is windy around here, helps to keep the tobacco from just getting burnt, but it can be a little harsh on the finger tips.


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## JHCsci (Feb 6, 2011)

freestoke said:


> Flakes seem to need to be drier than ribbon to burn well. Smoke a bowl after letting it dry for half an hour, then try the other with an hour to dry. The horrible part about this advice is that all flakes don't dry at the same rate, taste better more/less dried, and so forth. Still, if you experiment around with it, you start to get a feel for how flakes burn.
> 
> Then there's the lighting problem. Put a match to Prince Albert and you're good to go. Even a dry flake can be finicky to light fully and can merrily burn down the middle or one side and it's like smoking a "light" cigarette, with those little holes in the filter. Basically, you draw a lot of air around the ember, making the smoke thin. This sort of problem is easily remedied with a tamper and relight with ribbon, because the charring light allows the creation of a smooth surface that you can light evenly over the surface, giving you a good ember. No such luck with flake, especially a fold and stuff. Flake tends to really puff up over the rim, too. Tamp it back down and light it again. And maybe even again. Don't worry about heating things up for a minute at the beginning, that's not going to make the rest of the bowl burn hot. Get a full fledged ember going and then you can back off of it and enjoy the smoke. The nice thing about flake is that once you do get all the strands started, the sucker will stay lit with very little effort. Conversely, if you don't get a good solid start, flakes have a tendency to run down a few strands without setting the surround fuel on fire. You draw hard, it burns hot, straight down till it hits the bottom, leaving half the tobacco untouched.
> 
> Another thing to try is damping, using your thumb or two fingers or even a matchbook over the bowl, forcing the draft to be drawn in around the edges. This tends to distribute the airflow through the pack and encourages the ember to spread out and cover more of the top surface of the burn pile.


Thank you for the advice. I have let them dry out for various times, but they may need to go a little longer. I agree that I think what is happening is some strands are lit and others are not. Then it gets down the bowl and I have to keep relighting. I have also done the damping and it helps a little, but I think the first thing is to make sure I really get that first light going. I tend to char, tamp, light, and just go with it, but it probably isn't fully lit yet.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

JHCsci said:


> Thank you for the advice. I have let them dry out for various times, but they may need to go a little longer. I agree that I think what is happening is some strands are lit and others are not. Then it gets down the bowl and I have to keep relighting. I have also done the damping and it helps a little, but I think the first thing is to make sure I really get that first light going. I tend to char, tamp, light, and just go with it, but it probably isn't fully lit yet.


Rub those flakes out way, way more for about, uh, 3-months. Then, in mid-June, 2011, go back to the way you rubbed it out last week. Go back and forth with all kinda flakes like that for about two years. Talk to you again in 2013.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Hey Guys,
So I have tried a few different beverages while smoking and have not found exactly what I am looking for. I am really looking for something would clear you palette and not impart its own flavor on your smoke. I know there is a lot of discussion around good "pairings", but if I wanted the natural flavor to come through, yet still be able to beat the occasional tongue bite, whats my choices? Would green tea work?


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## shannensmall (Jun 30, 2010)

Yeah Green tea is a good choice. My preferred drink actually. I drink plain ol green tea or sometimes the crystal light raspberry green tea. Either works to cleanse the palate and the raspberry is light enough to compliment most baccy without imparting too much of it's flavor.


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## Habanolover (Feb 22, 2006)

The best palate cleanser I have found is cool (not cold) water with a squeeze of lemon or lime in it. The citrus does a great job at cleansing your palate. You do not want very cold water as this will numb your palate and make you unable to taste as well.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Thanks Guys, I will have to try the green tea and the water with lemon.


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## JHCsci (Feb 6, 2011)

Mister Moo said:


> Rub those flakes out way, way more for about, uh, 3-months. Then, in mid-June, 2011, go back to the way you rubbed it out last week. Go back and forth with all kinda flakes like that for about two years. Talk to you again in 2013.


:dance:

I almost peed myself.


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## jader (Feb 22, 2011)

Pipe Xperts,
Is it ok to pre-dry your tobacco to the preferred moisture, then put it in a baggie or plastic container to smoke within the next day or two. 

The problem I have is that I rarely have time to let baccy dry for an hour, then spend an hour smoking it. So I if I can dry out the next night or two's rations before hand it really helps me out.


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

jader said:


> Pipe Xperts,
> Is it ok to pre-dry your tobacco to the preferred moisture, then put it in a baggie or plastic container to smoke within the next day or two.
> 
> The problem I have is that I rarely have time to let baccy dry for an hour, then spend an hour smoking it. So I if I can dry out the next night or two's rations before hand it really helps me out.


You sure can, but keep in mind that the baccy could continue to dry (depending on what ya stored it in) so don't forget about it - or it could end up as a pile of dry, crumbly baccy dust.


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## jbrown287 (Aug 18, 2010)

I have been watching a few 101 vidoes and the guy is saying something like akia???? He is talking about english has it and you can get all natural with no..of this....

Does anyone know what he is saying?


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

jbrown287 said:


> I have been watching a few 101 vidoes and the guy is saying something like akia???? He is talking about english has it and you can get all natural with no..of this....
> 
> Does anyone know what he is saying?


 I haven't watched the video, but English blends have _Latakia_ in them, that could be it.

edit: Latakia is a type of tobacco btw. I believe the smoky notes in English blends come from Latakia, like the BBQ notes in some VAPers comes from the perique.


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## jbrown287 (Aug 18, 2010)

Got another ??? How many bowls does 8oz of tobacco last. Assuming it's a normal size bowl. I will be starting with a cob pipe.


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

A half pound of pipe baccy will last a long time. I usually get about ten or so bowls out of an ounce.


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## jbrown287 (Aug 18, 2010)

WOW. So even 8oz will last a good while. What is considered expensive? Is 8.50 for 2oz considered expensive? What is the best way to store this stuff also?

I'm going to drive you guys nuts.


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## jbrown287 (Aug 18, 2010)

jbrown287 said:


> WOW. So 8oz will last a good while. What is considered expensive? Is 8.50 for 2oz considered expensive? What is the best way to store this stuff also?
> 
> I'm going to drive you guys nuts.


Fixed my mistake.

Do most pipes take a filter? Advantages for or against it?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Blue_2 said:


> A half pound of pipe baccy will last a long time. I usually get about ten or so bowls out of an ounce.


At 28.3 grams to the ounce, you can work backwards from the 3 grams they give you in a lot of smoking competitions. That works out to 10 fairly decent sized bowls. In practice, I probably put more like 2 grams in a bowl, since I smoke the cobs a lot, I have a couple of smaller pipes I like, and I pack very light in general. (A competition pack requires more tobacco.) I probably get more like 13 or 14 bowls to an ounce. It's 2:30 right now and I've been up since 8:30. Six hours. So far, I've had PA, Bob's Chocolate, Dunhill Flake, LuxNavy Flake and PA...5 bowls. I figure I go through an ounce every 3 days or so, but I smoke a fair amount.


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

jbrown287 said:


> WOW. So even 8oz will last a good while. What is considered expensive? Is 8.50 for 2oz considered expensive? What is the best way to store this stuff also?


$8.50USD isn't exactly expensive, but 'expensive' is a relative term. Most good pipe tobacco (tin vs tin and bulk vs bulk) is around the same price, except for hyped eBay prices.

Pipe tobacco can be stored in canning jars for long periods of time. Keep it dark and cool, no humidification devices needed.


jbrown287 said:


> Do most pipes take a filter? Advantages for or against it?


Some pipes take a filter, it depends on the brand and country. They can take some of the moisture and some of the strength out of a baccy, but it's just a preference. It's inexpensive enough to try it both ways with a Missouri Meerschaum.


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## Benz_one (Mar 22, 2006)

*Flake tobacco question*

To start, I am a relatively new pipe smoker. A seasoned veteran of cigars, but trying something new. So far, I have really enjoyed learning the art of pipe smoking.

Last week, I received my order for a few tins of pipe tobacco that were well reviewed here as well as on TR. A couple of them (Blackwoods flake and Exhausted Rooster) are in flake form

Two days ago, I popped the tin on Blackwoods flake. I rubbed out the flakes and gravity filled the bowl just like I've seen in youtube video instructionals. I let the packed bowl dry for about an hour before smoking it. The smoke was a little hot, but it was tasty! Really enjoyed the sweetness and the spice taking the lead at different times.

Last night, I opened the Exhausted Rooster. I did the same thing (I think). Rubbed out the flakes, gravity filled. I may have overpacked the bowl, with expansion in mind. The pipe never went out during the entire smoke, but it was hot and it tasted, for the lack of better terms, like a stale cigar...very unpleasant. It was really windy (20 mph gusts, I think), so perhaps that played a part.

Anywho, does anyone have a suggestion as to what I can do to improve this smoke?

Any / all advice is appreciated!

Jason


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

If it's smoking hot you are probably puffing too much or the tobacco is too moist. The heat is from the small amount of steam that is created when the tobacco burns. Drying it out a little longer and puffing a little less often should take care of that for you. Also, smoking in the wind can sometimes create a condition with a pipe smoker similar to that of the pipe being steadily puffed on... This too can create the effect you described. 

The #1 thing I'd suggest to a new pipe smoker is to slow down. Smoke as slow as you think you should and then cut that in half. Smoking a pipe is all about the taste of the tobacco so anything that takes away from that needs to be addressed. It sounds like you have the loading part taken care of so that'd be my suggestion.

Welcome to the Pipe Side!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

*Re: Flake tobacco question*



Benz_one said:


> Last night, I opened the Exhausted Rooster. I did the same thing (I think). Rubbed out the flakes, gravity filled. I may have overpacked the bowl, with expansion in mind. The pipe never went out during the entire smoke, but it was hot and it tasted, for the lack of better terms, like a stale cigar...very unpleasant. It was really windy (20 mph gusts, I think), so perhaps that played a part.
> 
> Anywho, does anyone have a suggestion as to what I can do to improve this smoke?
> 
> Jason


A 20mph wind is pretty difficult to deal with. You almost have to have a cap over the bowl or use your fingers to keep the wind from fanning it into an inferno. There's also the issue of keeping the stem/shank clean or some pretty raunchy tastes can result. Be sure to run a pipe cleaner through it after every smoke -- and if things start to get a little "odd", which can happen if you smoke a bit too fast and the lower parts of the pack get a little moist, one mid bowl doesn't hurt a thing.

And maybe you don't like Exhausted Rooster. Some people find perique unpleasant.


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## Benz_one (Mar 22, 2006)

Thanks Jim and Dale!

I will try out your suggestions for tonight's smoke!


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## shannensmall (Jun 30, 2010)

Also, next time, try drying the baccy out before you pack it. Packing it in the pipe and letting it sit does dry it some, but not near as much as if you let it sit on a paper plate beforehand.


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## Benz_one (Mar 22, 2006)

shannensmall said:


> Also, next time, try drying the baccy out before you pack it. Packing it in the pipe and letting it sit does dry it some, but not near as much as if you let it sit on a paper plate beforehand.


Definitely a good idea. Thanks for the suggestion, Shannen!


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## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

*Re: Flake tobacco question*



freestoke said:


> And maybe you don't like Exhausted Rooster. Some people find perique unpleasant.


I'm one of those. While I do like some blends that contain perique (Irish Oak, Long Golden Flake, HotW) I don't really notice it in those blends although I imagine it adds a little something to the overall smoke. When I can taste or smell the perique distinctly in a blend (like in ER) it doesn't work for me. ER's got to have one of the best names and tin art in the entire tobacco world however.


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## Sblumberjack (Mar 20, 2011)

I've been smoking pipes for a number of years just kind of picked it up. I've always smoked the tobacco from places like up in smoke or tinder box that was sold by the oz. is the kind in the tins better than what I would pick up at one of those places? And what is this flake and rope stuff?


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

The tin stuff is certainly better than some bulk stuff, but then quality bulk is just as good, so I guess it depends on what bulk you're smoking. It's more of a 'what blend you prefer' thing as far as I can see.

As for the flakes and rope stuff, it's just different presentations, but it makes smoking a lot more interesting! I see others on this thread, and I have to go to work, so I'll cop out and leave it to them...


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## shannensmall (Jun 30, 2010)

The stuff sold in bulk by the oz in a B&M can be hit or miss depending on the tobacconist. Some just relabel crap, some relabel good quality brands, and some make their own (good and bad). So without knowing exactly what your guy is selling you, we can't really say for sure if it's better or worse than what is sold in a tin. Although, there are very few bad blends and almost none that use sub par tobacco in a tin. You usually get a solid quality smoke. Now if you like what you are smoking, that is a whole nother story.

Flakes are made by layering tobacco and pressing it into large cake looking piles of tobacco. Then sliced and sold as a flake. Often heat or steam is added to the pressed baccy to help meld the flavors of all the different types of tobacco in the flake.

Ropes, are spun and twisted tobaccos that create a very compressed actual rope of tobacco. Again heat is often used (stoving) to help meld the flavors.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Sblumberjack said:


> I've been smoking pipes for a number of years just kind of picked it up. I've always smoked the tobacco from places like up in smoke or tinder box that was sold by the oz. is the kind in the tins better than what I would pick up at one of those places? And what is this flake and rope stuff?


I agree with the above but add,
"better" or worse is only defined by each person's own taste. You can generalize, but...


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## MrChaos (Feb 28, 2011)

ok I know that you can use everclear to clean your pipe but can you use something a little stronger like "white lightning"?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

MrChaos said:


> ok I know that you can use everclear to clean your pipe but can you use something a little stronger like "white lightning"?


Yes. Any good spirit should do fine. Bourbon imparts a nice, subtle flavor also. Just be careful not to get any on the outside of the bowl or shank. It will dissolve the finish of a briar.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

ok i got another question. 


Half and Half, its burley and bright? what is bright?


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

EvoFX said:


> ok i got another question.
> 
> Half and Half, its burley and bright? what is bright?


I believe it's a type of virginia or another name for virginia.

Yes, another name for virginia according to Wiki


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Tobacco: Geography of Virginia


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

awesome, thanks. so its another word for virgnias? 

after smoking half and half, my mouth feels like sand paper. like i love the cool feeling of it going in, but after i am done, it feels like i just applied a strip to my toungue and roof. does that happen with virginias and burleys?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Va's can bite if smoked too hard, yes. Burley's seldom bite on their own but can if they are blended with other tobaccos.


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

EvoFX said:


> awesome, thanks. so its another word for virgnias?
> 
> after smoking half and half, my mouth feels like sand paper. like i love the cool feeling of it going in, but after i am done, it feels like i just applied a strip to my toungue and roof. does that happen with virginias and burleys?


Might be propelyne glycol or some additive that had that effect, too.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

so in other words cheap tobacco. well it is drugstore so i guess i cant expect much, i just forgot i had this in my stash


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## jagermeister73 (Apr 9, 2011)

Hi guys I have a couple of questions. First and foremost I find that while clenching the pipe in my mouth I tend to generate quite a bit of saliva. Is this normal? It kind of bugs me because by the time I get down to bottom of the bowl the tobacco (prince albert or Carter hall) its a wet wad of nastiness. Kind of hard to build my cake up down there with so much moisture running in from my mouth. Anything I can do to curb the excess saliva besides constantly swallowing. I'm a clencher so not much for holding then puffing. 

Finally I'm a former smoker. Just smoked my last cig tonight.  Not missing it at all. I love pipes and everything about it. However mornings are an issue. My routine was with smoking to go out and have a smoke even before I brewed my coffee. I need that nicotine fix. So I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a strong nicotine tobacco for mornings? Something to get my ass in gear and says hey slacker get your ass moving we got stuff to do!  

It's funny but already I've noticed that when getting up in the morning I don't cough. If you're a former cig smoker you know what I'm talking about. I should have switched to pipes years ago. I can't wait to start trying out different tobaccos and get a Peterson once I get some extra cash. But the prince in the can does a decent job for now. I used to like Capt Black white but dare I say my taste buds are developing and now it tastes like a bar of soap dipped in chocolate. Funny how that works. Thanks in advance for giving insights into my saliva issue and nicotine fix


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Welcome to the Pipe Side Bob.

As for the excess saliva, you'll just have to keep swallowing, spitting, or whatever else works for you. I find that a drink while smoking kelps for me.

Being a cigarette smoker as well (and trying to quit...down to about 6 or 8 a day now), I smoke whenever the urge hits, aside from work. Prince Albert and Carter Hall are also my picks for "that time" and I do inhale now and again. It helps a lot. Get a small MM cob like the Legend or Pride models and smoke half bowls if time is an issue.

Good Luck! :tu


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

DSturg369 said:


> Va's can bite if smoked too hard, yes. Burley's seldom bite on their own but can if they are blended with other tobaccos.


From what I hear raw burley can bite pretty bad - this is why they add sugars to it. Apparently in olden times bitey burleys were more common, hence Lane coming up with the name "Burley Light Without Bite" as a selling point.

From Russ Oullette: "It is high in oil, and low in sugar (the opposite of Virginia), and tends to burn coolly, and has a nutty type of flavor. Since the smoke produced is more alkaline, burley can lead to tongue bite. When cased (flavored), the added sugar can reduce the likelihood of bite."


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

As you continue to smoke the pipe more, you may find you salivate less and less, I know that's how it was for me.

I would definitely not advise inhaling the pipe.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Burley's seldom bite me is probably what I should have said.... But I puff slowly and seldom get bit by any tobacco anymore.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Oh I didn't mean to discount what you were saying - I just thought it was an interesting historical perspective. I doubt any modern blends use raw uncased burley.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

It's all good Brother! :tu


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Jack Straw said:


> Since the smoke produced is more alkaline, burley can lead to tongue bite. When cased (flavored), the added sugar can reduce the likelihood of bite."


I saw a video on YouTube where the guy mentions drinking something with citric acid to help reduce the likelihood of tongue bite, obviously to offset the alkalinity.

Ive been getting a little bite lately, but I also think that I am still puffing to fast or hard or something. Combine that with certain types of tobacco and my chances for discomfort increase. Ok, this is starting to make some sense to me now.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

ya, still getting in the habit of puffing even slower, so far it seems to be working


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## Cadillac (Feb 28, 2007)

Hey guys,

I've really started enjoy Escudo!

I have two questions;

1) I've heard people mention that cooking it in the tin in the oven can really improve the taste without having to cellar for extended periods. My plan is to (hopefully) buy enough for cellaring, and some to enjoy now. Can someone breakdown the process of "cooking" if it actually makes a difference?

2) Can someone offer some alternative VaPers that are worth trying as well? I've heard good things about some of P.S. products (Luxury Navy Flake/Bullseye Flake) as economical alternatives.

Thanks!


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## Firedawg (Nov 8, 2010)

Cadillac said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I've really started enjoy Escudo!
> 
> ...


1. Seen the video about cooking the tin. Not the same as aging but would change things like cooking food same type of chemical process change. cant hurt to try it for fun though.

2. Yes the PS line of flakes are great flakes for the price. I smoke all three in a rotation. Also orlicks Golden flake is a inexpensive flake(they do have a rubbed out flake in bulk I have heard)


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Cadillac said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I've really started enjoy Escudo! ...Can someone offer some alternative VaPers that are worth trying...


While the price of a 100g can of Reiner Long Golden Flake (aka #71) isn't strictly a bargain* (nor the blend strictly virginia-perique) it is remains my idea of the end of the road in search for the finest vaper on the planet.

* as low as $15-$16 per can at shows; generally up in the twenties online.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Mister Moo said:


> While the price of a 100g can of Reiner Long Golden Flake (aka #71) isn't strictly a bargain* (nor the blend strictly virginia-perique) it is remains my idea of the end of the road in search for the finest vaper on the planet.


What the...!? This is SO annoying. I have all this STINKING tobacco and it's ALL THE WRONG STUFF!!

You really need to keep stuff like this to yourself, okay? Show a little responsibility, a little compassion. sheesh.


----------



## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

question:

how much is too much, packing tobacco into a mason jar?


----------



## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> question:
> 
> how much is too much, packing tobacco into a mason jar?


When the jar breaks. :biggrin1:


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

thats what i wanna hear


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> question:
> 
> how much is too much, packing tobacco into a mason jar?


The rule of thumb seems to be 1 : 2 tobacco to jar space. i.e. an 8 oz. mason jar can hold 4 ounces tobacco. In reality the only tobacco I can manage to get 4 ounces of into an 8 ounce jar is stout flake, like SG Navy. Loose tobacco would probably pack less well. I tend to pack loose tobacco tight, but not so tight I have to get a rammer to pack it down. Considering the density it's packed in some tins I imagine you could get it pretty solid without a problem.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Xodar said:


> The rule of thumb seems to be 1 : 2 tobacco to jar space. i.e. an 8 oz. mason jar can hold 4 ounces tobacco. In reality the only tobacco I can manage to get 4 ounces of into an 8 ounce jar is stout flake, like SG Navy.


 Flake is definitely denser, so it comes closer to that 1 : 2 ratio. This seems to be my experience, too. Something like PA comes up a bit shy of that -- but I pack it in there pretty tight anyhow. Don't see how it would be a problem, really. Pack it tight enough and it BECOMES flake! :lol:


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

sounds great, so far so good, i have a question on tin dates.


were are the dates on 

Esoterica, Peterson and Balkan Saisini?


----------



## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> sounds great, so far so good, i have a question on tin dates.
> 
> were are the dates on
> 
> Esoterica, Peterson and Balkan Saisini?


I've never seen an Esoterica tin. The Peterson UF and IF don't seem to carry one, which seems odd -- what if a batch was poisoned or something? If Balkan Sasieni has a date, I'm guessing it's the small print sideways, left of the bar code. My two tins have 1010070107 on both and were bought at the same time. If the numbers mean anything along those lines, I'd guess October 7, 2010 or July 10, 2010, batch 0107, but who knows?


----------



## Jimbo69 (Apr 18, 2011)

Newbie pipe smoker (really, really newbie, as it hasn't arrived in the mail yet.) Judging from the look on my wife's face when I mentioned I was going to be taking up this hobby, I'll be smoking outside, strictly.

I've seen occasional mentioned of screens (wind screens. Not the type in the bottom of some pipes for smoking, well, other things.) Any good rule of thumb for when to use one? Like how breezy it it? Note that I probably wouldn't be smoking during a dust storm - I'm thinking more normal weather.

Thanks! And this thread is awesome - answered many questions!


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Screens can be okay I suppose, never used one myself, but simply cupping your hand over the bowl in a breeze works just as well and it's free. I drive around with the window down and the breeze can be considerable at times. The hand cupping works like a charm.


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

The screens work pretty good but they can get VERY hot if its fairly windy.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

DSturg369 said:


> Screens can be okay I suppose, never used one myself, but simply cupping your hand over the bowl in a breeze works just as well and it's free. I drive around with the window down and the breeze can be considerable at times. The hand cupping works like a charm.


I don't care for gadgets and never had one of those screens. I just hold it with my fingers over the bowl. Can't really clench without a screen though, I guess. 'Bout the only time I clench is cooking, computering and throwing darts, so I don't face a lot of wind there. I also clench in the car, but most of the year it's too cold to have the window down around here.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

i have a tin of 2008 Frog on the town, and a 2010. would it change the taste to combine them?


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> i have a tin of 2008 Frog on the town, and a 2010. would it change the taste to combine them?


 It probably wouldn't hurt anything, but you'd be missing the opportunity to look at what a 2 year age difference does firsthand. If I were in your shoes I might pop both but would keep them seperate so you could smoke 1 yr. old and then 3 yr. old to illustrate how aging changes it. Just my 2 cents though.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

you know, i think i going to do that. i thought i was out of mason jars but i just found another. now to see the difference


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## Jimbo69 (Apr 18, 2011)

Dumb newbie question for the day: What exactly is "Room Note"? I've seen that on lots of tobacco descriptions. Is it the smell of the tobacco itself, or the smell of the smoke?


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Jimbo69 said:


> Dumb newbie question for the day: What exactly is "Room Note"? I've seen that on lots of tobacco descriptions. Is it the smell of the tobacco itself, or the smell of the smoke?


I'm a newbie too. I always assumed it refers to the smell of the smoke...as in, what the room smells like to your wife sitting across the table from you. I always smoke outside, and almost always alone, so I don't pay much attention to comments about room note.


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

Jimbo69 said:


> Dumb newbie question for the day: What exactly is "Room Note"? I've seen that on lots of tobacco descriptions. Is it the smell of the tobacco itself, or the smell of the smoke?





gahdzila said:


> I'm a newbie too. I always assumed it refers to the smell of the smoke...as in, what the room smells like to your wife sitting across the table from you. I always smoke outside, and almost always alone, so I don't pay much attention to comments about room note.


Gahdzila for the win! Room note is more about what other people smell as you smoke. If you're like me and live alone, you have to leave the room and come back after a few minutes to assess room note.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

question, so i just purchased some of the wonderful 2001 Bobs Choco Flake, and been loving it. If i were to get it in bulk again, would it have that soapy flavor to it? I assume there is a big difference from a 2010/2011 Choco Flake and 2001.


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## Zfog (Oct 16, 2010)

EvoFX said:


> question, so i just purchased some of the wonderful 2001 Bobs Choco Flake, and been loving it. If i were to get it in bulk again, would it have that soapy flavor to it? I assume there is a big difference from a 2010/2011 Choco Flake and 2001.


I have been doing a lot of research on these tobaccos in the last 2 days... from what I have read you will taste the lakeland a lot more than if it were aged. 
I have heard a couple guys say that they leave it out for a couple hours before smoking and it tones down the "soapyness". I could not tell you from first hand experience though.


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## Sblumberjack (Mar 20, 2011)

I've noticed on various posts that people mention drying their tobacco before smoking it. Is there a general rule of thumb or is it simply trial and error. For instance I received my end of the newbie trade, me being the newbie. The first thing I tried is the sample of squadron leader. Seemed to be pretty moist but I lit it anyway. Had to relight about three times. Would I have been better to let it dry for a half hour or so?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Drying your tobacco is a personal thing. Some (like myself) prefer it dryer and some not so dry. It's trial and error dependent of the tobacco blend and the smoker's preference.


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## Sblumberjack (Mar 20, 2011)

I also notice that some people have specific pipes for specific tobacco...what's the deal? Sure, I have my fav or go to pipe but deciding on which pipe to smoke for me is just which ever one I feel like using not based on which tobacco I'm smoking. Does it really make a difference?


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Oh, yeah. Smoke a tin of Westminster through a pipe and then load up a bowl of FVF; you'll still taste the Westminster. No doubt, some are more sensitive to ghosting than others, and if it doesn't bother you, don't worry about it. In fact, ghosting can be kind of fun at times. I have pipes that I'll smoke anything in, just for fun, but I also have pipes that are strictly Virginia only, and even a couple that are blend-specific. My first briar was a Dr. Grabow that I smoked EVERYTHING in; after about six months, I couldn't tell one tobacco from another in it.


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## komakino (Apr 8, 2011)

I recently came to pipes and was curious about cellaring.

I'm on a top floor apartment, so it gets very hot in the summertime. Sometimes I'm gone for a month and, obviously, don't leave the A/C on and it can get 85-90 in my apartment for a month.

How bad might the heat effect tobacco if I choose to cellar? Would it just not be worth it?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Heat isn't as bad for pipe tobaccos as it is for cigars. For some pipe tobaccos, heat can even be a good thing. Your tobaccos should be fine.


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## komakino (Apr 8, 2011)

Ok, thanks! Time to stock up!


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## mlcjuggler (May 18, 2011)

Hey, i have noticed that the aromatics always smell the best to me, but what types of tobacco taste the best? If you could give any specific brands to try that would be much appreciated!


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

It's all subjective Michael. What tastes good to me might not taste good to you. Different people prefer different tastes in their tobaccos... Sweet, woodsy, earthy, nutty.... It's all good but also different for each smoker.

Very few tobaccos taste like they smell in the tin. I highly suggest trying different tobaccos to see what your tastes are. English, Va's, VaPer's, Aro's, Burleys.... Each has it's own unique taste characteristics; Not good or bad, just different. 

The Newbie Sampler Trade For Pipes is a great way to sample several different brands and blends without breaking the bank, and it will get you on the road to finding what your tastes are. 

Welcome to the Pipe Side!


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## mlcjuggler (May 18, 2011)

Could you point me toward a sweet tobacco? And yeah i sighned up for the newbie pipe trade, just need to be on here long enough to PM someone. Thank you for the response! I have always heard that the va's are very sweet, but that in a lot of cases the aromatic tobaccos are just for the room note.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

In my personal experiences, VA's get sweeter with time. They do have a somewhat sweetness to them from the start but it gets better with age. I don't smoke a lot of pure VA's but FVF is certainly one that has a sweetness to it and is pretty popular with a lot of folks here. As for Aro's, the best by far are Boswell's blends. And I would agree that many smoke like poo and hand out quite a tongue bite but the room note is often nice. Not worth the effort, IMHO.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

I'll second Dale on that one. You'll appreciate VA's more after you've got a little more smoking experience. In the meantime, check out Boswells pipes (google it) and order up a few different things. I like Christmas cookie, berry cobbler, and bear blend, but look through the list and read about some of their others too. You might find something that sounds appealing to you.

Edit - don't buy too much, because it won't be long you'll be chasing English blends and VaPers down!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

DanR said:


> Edit - don't buy too much, because it won't be long you'll be chasing English blends and VaPers down!


Sounds like a good rule of thumb: Never buy a lot of any aromatic.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Aside from changing tastes, Aro's diminish over time so stockpiling wouldn't be prudent.


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

That's the big rationalization I use....
"These Virginias will only get better the longer I keep them stashed. I should buy a half pound at a time, it only makes sense..."
And I'll second the natural sweetness of VA's, smoked slowly it's almost like tobacco candy. I also like the VA/burley blends quite a bit lately, like you find in Tilbury or MacB's Navy Flake. Sweet figgy VA's with nutty burley, yum.


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## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

While doing an inventory of my unopened tins I noticed a two year old tin of C&D Burley Flake #2 is bulging at the top and bottom. Should I just toss it unopened? Never seen this happen before but I'm assuming it is not a good thing.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

Somewhat common product of aging, and a sign that things are progressing healthily inside. Definitely don't toss it. If it seems like there is a lot of pressure inside, just be careful opening it (seriously).


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## Diodon nepheligina (Nov 5, 2009)

mlcjuggler said:


> Could you point me toward a sweet tobacco? And yeah i sighned up for the newbie pipe trade, just need to be on here long enough to PM someone. Thank you for the response! I have always heard that the va's are very sweet, but that in a lot of cases the aromatic tobaccos are just for the room note.


Pipesandcigars.com has a couple of nice aromatics. They have several lines of house blends in the bulk tobacco section:

Hearth&Home series- Classic Burley Cake and Eggnog

University Series- Student

Scotty's Blends Series- Trout Stream and Butternut Burley

I just opened up a tin of Sutliffe's Taste of Summer. I'm not that much of an aromatic smoker but I like it.

Of course, YMMV.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

freestoke said:


> Sounds like a good rule of thumb: Never buy a lot of any aromatic.


so true. I was wanting to find aromatics, and most of them smelled wonderful but tasted terrible and over time my taste changed to english, and i have been hunting them ever since  (there are defiantly a few good aros, but hard to find)



Diodon nepheligina said:


> Pipesandcigars.com has a couple of nice aromatics. They have several lines of house blends in the bulk tobacco section:
> 
> Hearth&Home series- Classic Burley Cake and Eggnog
> 
> ...


Mac Baren 7 seas royal and Trout are my favs. Eggnog i was not impressed, HH series seems to come really dry and the nog did not have a good taste in my opinion


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## NarJar (May 9, 2011)

So, I have read several different methods of "post-smoke" rituals including the following:
1. Running a pipe cleaner through the stem to clear out the juices.
2. Inverting the pipe and tapping it to dump out the ash.
3. Covering the pipe with your hand and shake to help spread the ash for building cake purposes.

I was hoping you all could share your rituals for each type of pipe. I would assumethe rituals for a corn cob would be much different from a briar and different from a meerschaum.

Thanks!


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

I pretty much do the same thing regardless of cob or briar.
1. Knock out nthe ash and any dottle.
2. Pipe cleaner through the stem all the way to the bowl, scrubby scrubby back and forth.
3. Visually look at the bowl, may take a bent bristle cleaner and scrub the sides and the area around a cob's shank if needed. May pen knife a little cake off a briar if needed.

Then back into the end of the rotation, or it's spot if it's dedicated.


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

NarJar said:


> 3. Covering the pipe with your hand and shake to help spread the ash for building cake purposes.


I hear this a lot, and would have to say that it is an unnecessary step. Cake is going to from the actually process of smoking the pipe, and it is more than just ash stuck to the side of the bowl, however I don't necessarily see any down side to coating the bowl with ash, other than the next time you go to smoke it's got ash inside of it.

IMO that's a little like drinking 4 glasses of milk a day so you can grow 8 inches and slam dunk on your older brother. It won't hurt , but it probably won't help. There are all kinds of tricks that will suppository help to speed up the process but I don't see how using grape jelly, or honey, or whatever is actually better then doing the natural way.

I know that didn't answer your question, but I though I would add my Two Cents


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## NarJar (May 9, 2011)

No worries Derrick! All opinions are welcome as well.

Also, cake is formed from the carbon released from the burning tobacco, correct?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

It's not all that different from, but not the same as, creosote that you get from burning wood. It's a byproduct of heat, carbon, moisture, tobacco juce, and pixie dust. I think.


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

Commander Quan said:


> It's not all that different from, but not the same as, creosote that you get from burning wood. It's a byproduct of heat, carbon, moisture, tobacco juce, and *pixie dust*. I think.


 :biglaugh:
It's funny because it's true!


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## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

I have several pipes in which I'd like to have the airways opened. Anyone ever had this done and is there someone you can recommend? With a more open airway maybe I won't want to slam my Peterson against the wall every time I try to smoke it.


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

Here's a couple of shops I've used before.

Precision Smoking Pipe Rejuvenation & Repair
Pipe Repairs
Services


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## BrewShooter (Mar 17, 2011)

Commander Quan said:


> It's not all that different from, but not the same as, creosote that you get from burning wood. It's a byproduct of heat, carbon, moisture, tobacco juce, and pixie dust. I think.


The pixie dust is what gives it that "magical" flavor!


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## Claes (Dec 19, 2008)

I've been smoking pipe for about a year and a half now. I own 3 briars, 3 corncobs, and a Meerschaum pipe.

Anyways I still feel like nubsauce on my pipes. I've tried a bunch of different baccys and participated in the newbie pipe baccy program here. Despite trying several quality types my favorite is Georgian Cream by McClelland.

When I first started smoking (the first 8 months or so) it was just silly border line ridiculous how delicious it was! From everything I read about briars the flavor was only supposed to get better with seasoning / caking. I finally got some cake (not much for hundreds of bowls smoked) but now it just tastes terrible. I can't even get halfway through my bowls before I have to put them out. I find this with all my briars and my meerschaum, the corn is also not as good as it once was. I didn't' realize somethings like that with my Meer i'm supposed to wipe it clean after every smoke so nonetheless I didn't clean it (other that basic pipe cleaning) for 6+ months.

Any advice how I can clean these pipes to where they will taste like they used too? As far as cleaning my pipes I have never done more than run pipe cleaners through. I have never put any type of solution through or anything. 

I'm sure this information is already in this thread but after I read 15 pages or so I started to feel a bit overwhelmed. 

Thanks for the help!


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## NarJar (May 9, 2011)

Claes, I'd recommend you start out with this thread: Alcohol Cleaning which contains some good information as well as 2 links/references (originally posted by Todd aka Firedawg):
Youtube Monthly Cleaning
Estate Pipe Restoration (which includes cleaning)

And an additional link (originally posted by CWL):
Pipedia care/cleaning (with section when pipes turn sour)

Hopefully this helps, or at least gets you started down the right path.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Claes said:


> ...As far as cleaning my pipes I have never done more than run pipe cleaners through. I have never put any type of solution through or anything...


Seems like the first/worst problem comes from stems gone rogue. You gonna need BRISTLE (not fluffy) pipecleaners and some alcohol. I insist on Everclear 190-proof; some prefer scotch or bourbon; and 91% rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol _without color, scent or bittering additives_ works fine. Dip those bristle guys and scour out the pipestems and, taking care to keep alcohol off the briar finish, clean out the shanks.

If all your pipes taste depressing you are gonna find these pipestems and shanks very gommed up with grunge. You really need to clean out pipestems in this fashion periodicly to keep pipes tasting good. If this doesn't do the job (95% it will) then you need to consider methods for cleaning out the bowls.

Here's to better smokes this weekend, C's.


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> Seems like the first/worst problem comes from stems gone rogue. You gonna need BRISTLE (not fluffy) pipecleaners and some alcohol. I insist on Everclear 190-proof; some prefer scotch or bourbon; and 91% rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol _without color, scent or bittering additives_ works fine. Dip those bristle guys and scour out the pipestems and, taking care to keep alcohol off the briar finish, clean out the shanks.
> 
> If all your pipes taste depressing you are gonna find these pipestems and shanks very gommed up with grunge. You really need to clean out pipestems in this fashion periodicly to keep pipes tasting good. If this doesn't do the job (95% it will) then you need to consider methods for cleaning out the bowls.
> 
> Here's to better smokes this weekend, C's.


As I would expect, very good advice from Dan. I've cleaned a few estates lately & man there was some build up in the stem! I also second the isopropyl alcohol suggestion if you do not have access to Everclear like myself.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Another thought for you Claes. are your pipes dedicated to specific types of tobacco? If you're smoking aromatics, latakia, & Vapers all through the same pipe, it's all highly likely to taste like dog crap after a while. I dedicate mine as follows:

-Lighter Virginia/Burley
-Darker Virginia/Burley
-VA/Per
-Latakia
-Aromatic
-Orientals
-some specific blends as well. 1792 being a good example. It gets it's own pipe.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Tashaz said:


> I've cleaned a few estates lately & man there was some build up in the stem!


Boy, you got that right! I cleaned an old Dunhill a few months back and needed a rental dumpster to dispose of the gunk! The shank was particularly gruesome. Gotta think that Dunhill was WORSE than any of Claes pipes! :lol: I gave it three salt/alcohol treatments with vodka, too. (Just because that's the highest octane I had. They don't sell Everclear in NY. The best you can do is 160 proof vodka.) It came out okay though, so don't despair, Claes!


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## NarJar (May 9, 2011)

Quick question: What is the advantage of allowing a tobacco to age in its tin as compared to allowing it to age in a mason jar?

From what I can tell, it ages equally well in either, yet to me, it seems that the mason jar is a sure bet for aging. However, in a tin, the seals can fail, and I've seen posts about tins failing, and the owner not even being aware of it. Are the tins just prettier? Is there any way to know for sure if a tin failed other than the top coming off easily? Could one spot in the tin's seal fail, and the top still be secured by the remainder of the seal, and the tobacco will become ruined? Could a mason jar fail just as easily? Could a mason jar fail and the owner not be aware of it? Am I just over-analyzing?


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

A tin _should already be_ airtight, shielded from light, and in the midst of the aging process. Popping the tin and rejarring interrupts that process. Once you seal the glass jar it begins over again, and may be different depending on what it was exposed to during that time. Not THAT much different though. If the tin is over two or three years already, then its a decent idea to keep it.

There's also the issue of breakage. Drop a tin, probably no big deal. Drop a jar and it shatters.....you may get ultra fine glass dust in the baccy, effectively ruining it.


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## SmoknTaz (Jun 18, 2008)

*Gawith & Hoggarth Rum Flake*

I smoked some rum flake with about a year's age on it. I quite enjoy this flake but the soapiness is still very prominent. Question is will the Lakeland(esq) flavor be more muted with more cellar time?


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## Claes (Dec 19, 2008)

Thanks for the advice and insight gents. I'm going to try that out and I'll let you know how it goes!

I'm glad to hear you're all confident they can be saved. I 've sunk about $300-$400 into my briars and would hate to see them ruined.

I really only smoke one particular brand of aromatics. I need to try some others. I had done the newbie pipe sampler trade but I didn't get the baccy in mason jars so they went stale. Also I wasn't sure which were what type and the flavors didn't taste right as I was smoking them.


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## Hambone1 (May 31, 2011)

commonsenseman said:


> Another thought for you Claes. are your pipes dedicated to specific types of tobacco? If you're smoking aromatics, latakia, & Vapers all through the same pipe, it's all highly likely to taste like dog crap after a while. I dedicate mine as follows:
> 
> -Lighter Virginia/Burley
> -Darker Virginia/Burley
> ...


I hate to ask a stupid question. But how do you know what class your tobacco is in? Does it tell you on the packaging? noobie question.


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## NarJar (May 9, 2011)

Shawn said:


> I hate to ask a stupid question. But how do you know what class your tobacco is in? Does it tell you on the packaging? noobie question.


I have read a couple differing "opinions" on this. I would recommend looking the blend up on Tobacco Reviews as they have a good assortment and tell what kind/types of tobacco the blend is comprised of.


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

It's hoped that one would at least know the different ingredients of a blend before ordering it. Even if not, there are many sites that would tell you the different tobaccos used in a blend. What category a blend is in depends on the different tobaccos used in it, and if a topping (or added essence) is added, as is the case for most Aromatics.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Shawn said:


> I hate to ask a stupid question. But how do you know what class your tobacco is in? Does it tell you on the packaging? noobie question.


It's not a stupid question. I had the same "confusion" when I started smoking pipes. There's a lot of diversity in pipe tobaccos, which is what makes it so interesting. As previously suggested, just read some reviews, and the description on the tins, and it'll come to you eventually. In the meantime, relax and don't worry about it too much. You won't mess anything up, just smoke and have fun!


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

NarJar said:


> I have read a couple differing "opinions" on this. I would recommend looking the blend up on Tobacco Reviews as they have a good assortment and tell what kind/types of tobacco the blend is comprised of.


I'd keep in mind that they aren't always accurate. I prefer to check the blenders website.


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Also, feel free to post up or ask if you're unsure about a blends' contents. There are a few blends that the contents are not 100% known. Orlik Golden Sliced for example. There are some who say it's just a VA/Per, others say it's a VA/Bur, & some (myself included) say it just has to be a VA/Bur/Per :wink:


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

MarkC said:


> I'd keep in mind that they aren't always accurate. I prefer to check the blenders website.


Early Morning Pipe, for example, has Latakia in it, just not a lot. Tobaccoreviews says it does not. This from 
Early Morning Pipe | With Pipe and Pen

**Editors Note/Correction:*
*I have to make a correction to this review. After further investigation, I have found out from Orlik that this blend does contain Latakia. Here is a list of the tobaccos that are in this blend and where they come from:*
*•Virginia tobaccos from Africa and South America
•Oriental tobaccos from Greece and Turkey
•Latakia from Cyprus*
*A part of the Virginia tobacco is steamed in order to get the smooth taste.*


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## Hambone1 (May 31, 2011)

There is just so much that I don't know. I'm in information overload! Spending a lot of time researching all this stuff. Little did I know when I walked into the B&M tobacco shop to buy my first house blend and a new pipe (in 20 years) that I would be opening Pandora's box. And wtf is rope tobacco! Never even heard of that before! :frusty:


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

This is rope (or twist) tobacco...


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## Hambone1 (May 31, 2011)

dude.. that looks like a HUGE turd!


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## jwreed81 (Jun 9, 2011)

Shawn said:


> dude.. that looks like a HUGE turd!


yuck, i didn't wanna see that first thing this morning. now i forgot my question :lol:


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## CBR (Mar 31, 2010)

Ropes, despite their ridiculously comical appearance are all business.... nicotine business that is.

Funny story, we have a cat at our condo and he's not in the habit of covering up his poop after he's left it in the litterbox. One day I decided to prank my wife by leaving a small pile of Brown Bogie on a small square of paper on the kitchen floor, my wife walks in the door, her eyes catch the pile and her jaw drops. That was priceless!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Shawn said:


> dude.. that looks like a HUGE turd!


Doesn't it though!? :biglaugh: I slice my Happy Bogie into little coins and cannonball 'em with a little 5100 or HH Matured Virginia to smooth out the smoke a bit. Zonky! :tu


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

freestoke said:


> Early Morning Pipe, for example, has Latakia in it, just not a lot. Tobaccoreviews says it does not. This from
> Early Morning Pipe | With Pipe and Pen
> 
> **Editors Note/Correction:*
> ...


Good one. The world had me convinced there was no latakia in it until I got some in the blind taste test...


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## Sblumberjack (Mar 20, 2011)

MarkC said:


> Good one. The world had me convinced there was no latakia in it until I got some in the blind taste test...


Does anyone else find it funny that a Virginia tobacco is coming from Africa and South America? eep:


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Sblumberjack said:


> Does anyone else find it funny that a Virginia tobacco is coming from Africa and South America? eep:


No funnier than Cuban seed being grown in the Dominican Republic.

No funnier than Connecticut wrapper being grown in Canada.

No funnier than Kentucky tobacco being grown in Belgium.

Much funnier than Chinese food in Lizard Lick, North Carolina.

Considerably less funny than Mercedes Benz made in Alabama.

Hugely less funny than Nixon opening China.

Wake up, Sbl'ack. We got totally globalized in 1972 AND NEVER LOOKED BACK.

Hope this romp thru geo-economics was helpful.


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

And nearly as funny as a "Chonda" motorbike. Yep, you got it, A Chinese Honda.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Mister Moo said:


> ...
> Much funnier than Chinese food in Lizard Lick, North Carolina.


:biglaugh:


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## SnackPack (Jun 16, 2011)

Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and had a question that I'm sure some of the more seasoned veterans in the international sport of pipe smoking can answer for me:

I'm relatively new to smoking the pipe and have been smoking two estate meerschaums of my grandfathers for a while with relatively no issues (sans the fact that one has an ENORMOUS bowl and I cannot dedicate 3 hours to a smoke!). I recently purchased a Bjarne viking sandblasted briar pipe. I must say the finish and workmanship on it is quite good for such an affordable pipe imo.

I have been having a hard time keeping the thing lit (is this the nature of a briar pipe? A new briar pipe? I don't know too much about how to 'break in' a new briar pipe. What I've been doing is sticking to a medium latakia blend and smoking it every other day to let it rest. I've been having some issues with it smoking a bit hot also, unfortunately the hard way as my tongue and the roof of my mouth can attest to.

Is it bad when breaking in a briar pipe to have to relight it plenty through the course of one bowl? So many questions, I'm sure you all can shed some light to these, this forum looks fantastic and I can't wait to participate some more!

Cheers :tongue1:


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Zac, try drying the tobacco a little, until it "works" for you, and also puffing slower and smaller amounts (aka: :sipping"). That should help some. Relighting is normal.


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

Even once you reach the point where you *could* smoke a bowl through without relights, the amount of maintenance and micro-managing that's often necessary to get that done seems like a lot of work as opposed to just lighting it again. It's (usually) not a contest to keep it lit, smoke how you enjoy it.

And +1 to what Dale said, nearly all pipe tobacco comes a bit more moist then you want to smoke it at. Try sitting a bowl out ona tray for an hour before loading it.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Xodar said:


> And +1 to what Dale said, nearly all pipe tobacco comes a bit more moist then you want to smoke it at. Try sitting a bowl out ona tray for an hour before loading it.


Tobacco, hydrophilic stuff that it is, doesn't do much drying in high humidity. If it's humid enough, it can actually get more damp. Putting it near an incandescent light dries it pretty quickly, though.


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## DahlKen (Jun 16, 2011)

All I can say is WOW!! Just took me 3 days of perusing to read throught his entire thread, and I must say.....GREAT STUFF!!!

Being a complete newb to smoking the pipe I am sure I will be back with a few questions that haven't been covered, or maybe not as everything that I can foresee was pretty well covered.

Just want to thank you all that have contributed to this thread as it has been a VERY informative read.

Thanks again,
Thom


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## jwreed81 (Jun 9, 2011)

I figured this was the safest place to ask for a quick tobacco recommendation. Disclaimer: Sorry, I'm a newbie and still getting used to proper terminology, especially in regards to describing tobacco. And I also apologize if this is a repeated subject

I've been sampling as much tobacco as I can get my hands on and wallet around, also researching what I can, and I seem to be going in circles with aromatics, being all kind of homogenized and mild. I was wondering if there was more to them?

I love the taste of aromatics. I'm not looking for new/different flavors, but stronger stuff I guess? I find them pretty weak, and wind up smoking them hard and hot for more flavor.

I like the way my English blends smoke, full and strong, but sometimes the taste isn't right for my mood, or especially the room note for others. 

I think I'm looking for an aromatic that puts hair on your chest? :dunno:

Some obscure wet Danish old-timer thing is what I've been imagining, but I don't know squat... so that's why I'm asking for a recommendation or a new direction to try. 

Thanks a bunch!


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## Zfog (Oct 16, 2010)

Hello Joe, the only Aro's I have ever had that are strong are Lakeland tobacco's. Which you would probably have to buy online. Look for Dark Flake Scented, Brown Flake Scented or Ennerdale. I smoke these all the time, but be warned they will indeed put hair on your chest! :hail:


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

jwreed81 said:


> ...I'm not looking for new/different flavors, but stronger stuff I guess? I find them pretty weak, and wind up smoking them hard and hot for more flavor...


Smoking a pipe harder and hotter may require some of the mechanics of pipe smoking but will diminish, not reveal, the flavor you seek. The art of the pipe and the essense of the smoke comes through profoundly when your fill, tamp, level of tobacco moisture and smoking tempo permit small sips to produce dense clouds of smoke.

There is a tipping point of experience where flavor expands and effort diminishes. You will not easily reach that point by smoking stronger tobacco harder and faster; instead, turn 180* and pay attention to the "how-to" where you finesse, not bully, what you want from pipe and tabak.

I have thought it out and I have tried it all possible ways. This is the essense of it - the lowest common denominator. This is the road to the art and pleasure of the pipe.


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## Diodon nepheligina (Nov 5, 2009)

+1 on Moo's wise advice. If you seek to get the most from your baccy, whatever variety it may be, "less is more" in terms the return of puffing intensity on delivered flavor.

On the other hand, if you simply seek a deeper and richer flavor that you are not getting from your favorite aro's--and many if not most do not really have what I would call depth and/or richness-- or if you simply seek a bit more of a nic kick from your aro's, get yourself a tin of Dunhill Royal Yacht and mix 50/50 with whatever you are puffing. It is a darn fine smoke on its own; one that will put hair on your chest as you say. For the record, I can only smoke about half a bowl before I need to put it down. It's strong, manly stuff.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Diodon nepheligina said:


> +1 on Moo's wise advice... ...or if you simply seek a bit more of a nic kick from your aro's, get yourself a tin of Dunhill Royal Yacht... ...It's strong, manly stuff.


+1 on D'ina's similarly wise advice. Between the two of us we can walk and smoke a pipe.

:couch2:

Happy Father's Day. You younger guys, gve the old a man a little credit today.


"When I was a boy of 14, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to have the old man around. But when I got to be 21, I was astonished at how much the old man had learned in seven years."

- Mark Twain


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## jwreed81 (Jun 9, 2011)

Thanks for all the wisdom guys! I appreciate the help. I'll certainly keep working on my technique, and I'll try the Lakeland and Royal Yacht mix too!

Depth, richness, and maybe a nic kick too are just what I'm looking for, and I thought LL 1Q and PS or LL cherry cavendish couldn't be the end all of aro's.

I was looking for better stuff but I didn't know what to get. Instead of just buying the prettiest tin I wanted to ask you all first.

But I think I said too much like a noob :tape:

Thanks again!



Mister Moo said:


> Happy Father's Day. You younger guys, gve the old a man a little credit today.


Sorry it took me awhile to get back on here but I had to get me father's present together and the whole family on speaker phone to kick it off. Built him a political activism and blogging page. He's always ranting to us whats wrong with gov't, so now he can tell more people! :lol:


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Got to say....
Just finished reading the thread.
A lot of quality guys here. No wonder this part of the forum has taken off.
My head is spinning with all this info.....

I have one question.
I see a few guy here that also visit the Habanos section.
My question,,,,If you enjoy CC's....is there a class/brand of pipe tobacco
that one might enjoy more than another ?

Apologies if this is stupid or in the wrong place....


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

asmartbull said:


> Got to say....
> Just finished reading the thread.
> A lot of quality guys here. No wonder this part of the forum has taken off.
> My head is spinning with all this info.....
> ...


Not being a cigar smoker, I couldn't say first hand, but it seems to me (from reading other threads) that cigar smokers generally want something substantial, with a generous nic hit. Irish Flake, Royal Yacht, 1792, one of the ropes...heavy duty stuff. :lol: Probably some nice latakia blends would suit you, too -- there are a ton of them. (Trying to goad a sensible answer out of one of the cigar smokers here...)


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

I'm to new to this to give you an educated answer Al. All I can tell you is what I enjoy most so far, those being Penzance, Rattrays Hal O The Wynd, MacClellands Virginia Woods, Escudo and many more. There are just to many more yet to try to be definitive about this. :rockon:


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Tashaz said:


> I'm to new to this to give you an educated answer Al. All I can tell you is what I enjoy most so far, those being Penzance, Rattrays Hal O The Wynd, MacClellands Virginia Woods, Escudo and many more. There are just to many more yet to try to be definitive about this. :rockon:


Warren
Since we have similar taste in CC's, I will start with your list...
Thank You, Sir


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

asmartbull said:


> Warren
> Since we have similar taste in CC's, I will start with your list...
> Thank You, Sir


Hey, Al....you might wanna hold off buying tobacco. I've got a little something planned. Should go out tomorrow. Do you have a pipe?


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

owaindav said:


> Hey, Al....you might wanna hold off buying tobacco. I've got a little something planned. Should go out tomorrow. Do you have a pipe?


Dave
Thanks for the gesture, but really not necessary. I am sure I can figure this out

I have been reading about pipes for 4 hrs. Hope to have one by the weekend.
Trying like hell not to be one of "those" guys

I really like this side of the forum.....

Back to reading...


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

asmartbull said:


> Dave
> Thanks for the gesture, but really not necessary. I am sure I can figure this out
> 
> I have been reading about pipes for 4 hrs. Hope to have one by the weekend.
> ...


Tell you what. You pick up a cob or something to smoke out of and I'll send you a little sampler. (Oh, you might want to get a couple small mason jars too.)

It would actually mean a lot to me to be the guy who helped toss such a respected member down the pipe slope!


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

asmartbull said:


> Dave
> Trying like hell not to be one of "those" guys


I wouldn't worry about that; even on the pipe side, we're getting pretty good at spotting "them".


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

MarkC said:


> I wouldn't worry about that; even on the pipe side, we're getting pretty good at spotting "them".


And besides, it's folks who try not to be one of "those" guys who I take the most pleasure in helping the most!


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Everyone knows what opinions are like, and mine is that smoking a pipe to imitate a cigars profile is not the way to get the greatest enjoyment out of the hobby. I don't drink only beers that are in the same flavor profile as single malts or or only drink dry reds because they are the closest to an imperial porter. I realise it's difficult to know where to start if you've never smoked a pipe but it's a different animal and all options should be on the table until you eliminate them. If you come into it with a narrow profile in mind you may miss some really fantastic stuff, and that includes aromatics, which cigar smokers tend to turn their noses up to when they hear anything about tobacco being flavored. The various production methods and blending options give pipe tobacco a much grater range in flavor with than what can be achieved with the traditional cigar blending methods.

I guess the point is smoke a cigar when you want a cigar, and smoke a pipe when you want a pipe and get total satisfaction from each.


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

Commander Quan said:


> Everyone knows what opinions are like, and mine is that smoking a pipe to imitate a cigars profile is not the way to get the greatest enjoyment out of the hobby. I don't drink only beers that are in the same flavor profile as single malts or or only drink dry reds because they are the closest to an imperial porter. I realise it's difficult to know where to start if you've never smoked a pipe but it's a different animal and all options should be on the table until you eliminate them. If you come into it with a narrow profile in mind you may miss some really fantastic stuff, and that includes aromatics, which cigar smokers tend to turn their noses up to when they hear anything about tobacco being flavored. The various production methods and blending options give pipe tobacco a much grater range in flavor with than what can be achieved with the traditional cigar blending methods.
> 
> I guess the point is smoke a cigar when you want a cigar, and smoke a pipe when you want a pipe and get total satisfaction from each.


Great point Derrick! I've got 3 blends of pipe tobacco that have cigar leaf in them. While they're ok, I find myself thinking exactly what you said. "If I'd wanted to taste a cigar, I'd have smoked a cigar."

They really are two completely different animals. Very difficult to compare. I guess it's like iced tea (or "sweet tea" as it's known down here in the South.) and carbonated drinks. Both are in the same category but 2 completely different things.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Commander Quan said:


> ...production ... and blending options give pipe tobacco a ... gr[e]ater range in flavor ... than ... the traditional cigar...
> 
> ...smoke a cigar when you want a cigar...


Zakly so. When equating cc's with pipes you might as well ask, "If I like the early oil paintings of Van Gogh then which style of pancakes will I prefer for breakfast?"

There ARE a few pipe tobaccos that include cigar leaf and there are a few more that vaguely recall "maduro" or "Camaroon" when you commence to puff. And there are 1000 more pipe blends that don't.

That said, try some well-rubbed, dried Escudo flake tobacco in a corncob pipe. It produces an unmistakable clarity and intensity that cannot be confused with a cc but, in a barnyard sort of way, harkens to the notion of a Ramon Allones SS.

Great question.


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> Zakly so. When equating cc's with pipes you might as well ask, "If I like the early oil paintings of Van Gogh then which style of pancakes will I prefer for breakfast?"
> 
> There ARE a few pipe tobaccos that include cigar leaf and there are a few more that vaguely recall "maduro" or "Camaroon" when you commence to puff. And there are 1000 more pipe blends that don't.
> 
> ...


Wow Dan! Nicely put & I wholeheartedly agree. Must be why I love Escudo I suppose but then again I do not try and compare my pipe tobacco to cigars, quite the opposite as the pipes are a refreshing turn away from cigars. :wave:


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> Zakly so. When equating cc's with pipes you might as well ask, "If I like the early oil paintings of Van Gogh then which style of pancakes will I prefer for breakfast?"
> 
> There ARE a few pipe tobaccos that include cigar leaf and there are a few more that vaguely recall "maduro" or "Camaroon" when you commence to puff. And there are 1000 more pipe blends that don't.
> 
> ...


Dan
Thanks for the great reply. I'm not looking for a CC in a pipe, just a great starting point. Thanks to a few generous brothers, I believe I am headed down the path. I am sure I will have some more NOOB'ish questions, thanks for the patience.
Al


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

asmartbull said:


> Dan
> Thanks for the great reply. I'm not looking for a CC in a pipe, just a great starting point...Al


As long as you don't like soda pop flavored cigars then try some Escudo in a cob; it'll take about, oh... ho hum.... I dunno.... six months to figure out how to rub, dry, fill, light, tamp and actually enjoy a pipe of Escudo smoked right to the bottom but what the hell? People in a hurry don't smoke pipes anyhow, right? Seriously. It took me almost an hour to figure out how to open a tin without a hammer and a screwdriver. It isn't like biting off the end of a Helix, snapping the torch and puffing hard. Different sport entirely.

Don't throw all your cigars out. Yet.

Heh heh heh.


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## JD11 (Aug 21, 2008)

owaindav said:


> Tell you what. You pick up a cob or something to smoke out of and I'll send you a little sampler. (Oh, you might want to get a couple small mason jars too.)
> 
> It would actually mean a lot to me to be the guy who helped toss such a respected member down the pipe slope!


From all the reading I've been doing here , he isn't the first and probably won't be the last respected member you shove down that slope.. You Sir are the epitomy of BOTL/BOTB (or whatever the acceptable term is)


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Wait a minute...you can open a tin without a hammer and screwdriver?


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Mister Moo said:


> As long as you don't like soda pop flavored cigars then try some Escudo in a cob; it'll take about, oh... ho hum.... I dunno.... six months to figure out how to rub, dry, fill, light, tamp and actually enjoy a pipe of Escudo smoked right to the bottom but what the hell? People in a hurry don't smoke pipes anyhow, right? *Seriously. It took me almost an hour to figure out how to open a tin without a hammer and a screwdriver.* It isn't like biting off the end of a Helix, snapping the torch and puffing hard. Different sport entirely.
> 
> Don't throw all your cigars out. Yet.
> 
> Heh heh heh.


You know Dan, that might just have to be my new signature.

But yes, it is going to take a long time to figure everything out. Pipe smoking is an art form & can't be learned quickly, or by reading. You must jump in & try it yourself. With a few months of smoking, you'll be talking just like any piper on here, FVF this, Stonhaven that. Pipe smokers are the only people who when they read the words "Folded-n-Stuffed" or "Fully Rubbed Out" don't laugh & fully understand what it means. Be patient & smoke lots of stuff with lots of different methods.

That all being said, try some 1792 or Irish Flake. They could easily be described as "cigar-like".


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## BrewShooter (Mar 17, 2011)

Mister Moo said:


> When equating cc's with pipes you might as well ask, "If I like the early oil paintings of Van Gogh then which style of pancakes will I prefer for breakfast?"


So, which styles of pancakes is it?!?!?

As for opening a tin, I haven't added a screwdriver to my method. So far, I'm stuck with a hammer only method that, while messy, seems to work.


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

BrewShooter said:


> So, which styles of pancakes is it?!?!?
> 
> As for opening a tin, I haven't added a screwdriver to my method. So far, I'm stuck with a hammer only method that, while messy, seems to work.


I was my local B&M this AM
Picked up a few HTF cigars, and he saw I was looking
at pipes. Told him a brother was sending me a care package
and he gave me a tin of
Davidoff Flake Medallions.

I hope smoking a pipe is easier than opening the tin......


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

asmartbull said:


> and he gave me a tin of
> Davidoff Flake Medallions.
> 
> I hope smoking a pipe is easier than opening the tin......


:lol:

Haven't tried it, but it sounds super! I was expecting you to say the guy gave you some 1Q or Black Cavendish or something. :lol:

Davidoff - Flake Medallions pipe tobacco reviews


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## Zfog (Oct 16, 2010)

Welcome to the pipe side Al, be patient and enjoyment will come your way!


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Zfog said:


> Welcome to the pipe side Al, be patient and enjoyment will come your way!


I can't tell you how many cigars I have gone through reading about pipes....


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Filters.......

Gents I see that many Brigham pipes have "Rock Maple Filters"
Is this built into the pipe ? What are the thoughts on filters?

Thanks


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

asmartbull said:


> I can't tell you how many cigars I have gone through reading about pipes....


ROTFLMAO!!!!! :biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh: :spank::biglaugh:


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

asmartbull said:


> Filters.......
> 
> Gents I see that many Brigham pipes have "Rock Maple Filters"
> Is this built into the pipe ? What are the thoughts on filters?
> ...


I don't know what a Rock Mapel Filter is but for me personally, I toss my filters. I even have a Savinelli Trevi that's supposed to use their balsa insert system to keep it drier and I don't use those. Actually, you're supposed to put an plastic insert in it if you don't want to use the balsa insert but I don't even like that.

I guess it creates too much resistance for me is the biggest reason I don't use them.

That's pretty cool about the Davidoff Flake Medallions. You must know this guy pretty well or he would have tried to pawn off some God-awful aromatic on you. I've never had the Davidoff but I've heard decent things.


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

owaindav said:


> I don't know what a Rock Mapel Filter is but for me personally, I toss my filters. I even have a Savinelli Trevi that's supposed to use their balsa insert system to keep it drier and I don't use those. Actually, you're supposed to put an plastic insert in it if you don't want to use the balsa insert but I don't even like that.
> 
> I guess it creates too much resistance for me is the biggest reason I don't use them.
> 
> That's pretty cool about the Davidoff Flake Medallions. You must know this guy pretty well or he would have tried to pawn off some God-awful aromatic on you. I've never had the Davidoff but I've heard decent things.


He's a smart business man and is just priming the pump....


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## BrewShooter (Mar 17, 2011)

asmartbull said:


> I hope smoking a pipe is easier than opening the tin......


Uuuh...the correct answer is...maybe?!?!

As for filters, I use them if the pipe is made for them, but many do not. I like how they soak up a little of the moisture. Removing them does open up the draw a little and I think it's too much on some pipes. I change the filter after every bowl.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Not to open a can of worms, but I was looking for a tobacco suggestion. I have sampled some number of tobaccos and have come to believe I should try more VA/Per blends. My local B&M only carries one variety (some McClelland one) of which I am not too partial. I have also had PS LNF which I am _very_ fond of. I am placing an order online in the next few days, hence I was looking for suggestions of something good to try. Escudo was going to be my pick, but does anyone have another opinion?


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

Not strictly a VaPer because it has some burley in it, but Reiner Long Golden flake is delicious and perique-y. Perhaps one of the C & D bayous as well.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Xodar said:


> ... but Reiner Long Golden flake is delicious and perique-y...


+1 Reiner LGF. Hard to beat. Screw the burley.

A big vote, too, for Escudo.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Xodar said:


> Not strictly a VaPer because it has some burley in it, but Reiner Long Golden flake is delicious and perique-y. Perhaps one of the C & D bayous as well.


A second for the LGF. SG St. James Flake is excellent too, but a bit hard to come by. (Not quite Stonehaven rare, but scarce nonetheless.) LGF has been easy to find so far for me, I guess because it costs entirely too much. :lol: Love the stuff.


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## patrick.paul (Jun 30, 2011)

Just spent quite a while reading this thread... I might have to get me a corn cob pipe.... LOL! Then to find the baccys I like..


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## DahlKen (Jun 16, 2011)

OK I got one that I don't remember being answered here. I been smoking my pipes now for about a month or so. Started off with straight PA, and am now smoking mostly PS LNF and LTF with some Gawith Brown Irish X rope.

Now my question is, I've noticed that I'll salivate alot while smoking the PA, almost drool when puffing the flake, and pretty much almost have it rolling down the stem and my chin when smoking the rope. Now does this tendency go away over time, is it a product of smoking the stronger baccys, or is it something that is just part of it?


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

DahlKen said:


> OK I got one that I don't remember being answered here. I been smoking my pipes now for about a month or so. Started off with straight PA, and am now smoking mostly PS LNF and LTF with some Gawith Brown Irish X rope.
> 
> Now my question is, I've noticed that I'll salivate alot while smoking the PA, almost drool when puffing the flake, and pretty much almost have it rolling down the stem and my chin when smoking the rope. Now does this tendency go away over time, is it a product of smoking the stronger baccys, or is it something that is just part of it?


Yeah Thom, this is an effect of the nicotine. You describe it classically. Lower nic to ropes which are usually the highest.

It will subside eventually but so far for me, it hasn't gone away completely. It's managable for me now though.


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## DahlKen (Jun 16, 2011)

Thanks for the answer Dave. Hopefully in time I can get it under control as I am finding I prefer to puff on the stronger smokes and sometimes the drooling just seems out of control.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Xodar, Mister Moo, and Freestroke,

If three gentlemen of your distinction recommend this blend I must listen to your advice and purchase some...even if it does cost "entirely too much" and only seems to be available in 100g tins. 

Thanks for encouraging me to spend twice what I was planning and to buy twice as much tobacco as I was intending. :lol:


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

The Mad Professor said:


> Xodar, Mister Moo, and Freestroke,
> 
> If three gentlemen of your distinction recommend this blend I must listen to your advice and purchase some...even if it does cost "entirely too much" and only seems to be available in 100g tins.
> 
> Thanks for encouraging me to spend twice what I was planning and to buy twice as much tobacco as I was intending. :lol:


HAHA, you are most welcome. And, at least in this instance, you do get what you pay for. This is also a pretty unique flake to crack open. Once you get the paint can lid off the last tin I opened consisted of 4 flakes coiled in a delicious spiral of baccy. Kind of neat to spool out, although I tend to give it the scissor treatment right away.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

The Mad Professor said:


> Thanks for encouraging me to spend twice what I was planning and to buy twice as much tobacco as I was intending. :lol:


 :sorry: I feel so guilty I can barely smoke and drink a cocktail.

PM me and request my addy, then send a stamped self-addressed envelope. I'll return post you a decent sample of Reiner LGF (aka #71) to get your feet wet. I have an open tin sitting on the table and it is going fast. He who hesitates is snorkless.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Mister Moo said:


> PM me and request my addy, then send a stamped self-addressed envelope. I'll return post you a decent sample of Reiner LGF (aka #71) to get your feet wet. I have an open tin sitting on the table and it is going fast. He who hesitates is snorkless.


Mister Moo, you are a very kind and generous individual. My comments were expressed purely in jest and I hope that they were not interpreted in any other way. I was indeed very happy to receive three recommendations in agreement, and from such well respected members of the community as yourself. In fact, I have already ordered my tin of LGF (along with Escudo and some McConnell's Scottish Cake!) and happily await it in the mail.

I am delighted that you would offer me a sample of your private stash and I thank you very much for your kind offer. If I didn't trust your judgment so well that I bought a tin on your advice, I'd most certainly accept. :beerchug:


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Just thought I'd throw Bayou Morning Flake into mix. Popped a can of this yesterday. Big time perique snork and pretty potent! I'd say it's as big a nic hit as IF. Yowzah! Not bad at all! I'll let the other 6 ounces rest for a few months though.


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Another noob ????
In searching pipes, I see 6mm and MM pipes.
Between 3 Mme's, what is the difference and what is your preference?
Thanks Gents


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

MM stands for Mister Moo (Dan). Listen to him. LMAO:high5:


I know, a silly post but I had to do it.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

There are filter pipes that come with filters sized 6mm or 9mm. The only time I've seen MM it refers to Missouri Meerschaum. Just don't ask me which size filter the MM uses.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

MarkC said:


> Just don't ask me which size filter the MM uses.


6mm.


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## dgerwin11 (Jun 19, 2011)

asmartbull said:


> Another noob ????
> In searching pipes, I see 6mm and MM pipes.
> Between 3 Mme's, what is the difference and what is your preference?
> Thanks Gents


6mm refers to filter size. This is the most common, found on MM Dr Grabow Medico Yello Bole etc.

MM Missouri Meerschaum, maker of the ONLY corn cob worth buying.


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Thanks gents
Much appreciated.....


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## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

Does plug tobacco age more slowly than flake or ribbon cut? I want to put some Jackknife Plug aside and was wondering if I should leave it in the tin or, if it would age more quickly, slice it and store it in a jar?


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Filtered or not Filtered.
Last night the Mrs was looking at a
cpl pipes that I am thinking of buying.
She saw some of the filtered pipes, and suggested
I go that route.....What are your thoughts about filtered pipes?


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

asmartbull said:


> Filtered or not Filtered.
> Last night the Mrs was looking at a
> cpl pipes that I am thinking of buying.
> She saw some of the filtered pipes, and suggested
> I go that route.....What are your thoughts about filtered pipes?


I still use filters in some of mine to lessen the draw but if you dont like the filtered pipe, just toss the filter away as many do & it will be freer drawing. Your call methinks. :biggrin1:


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## cp478 (Oct 23, 2008)

Im with you tashaz, i do not like the filters and never use them. But I know some people who do. I must say that out of all the filters I tried the 9mm ones seemed to work the best.


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

cp478 said:


> Im with you tashaz, i do not like the filters and never use them. But I know some people who do. I must say that out of all the filters I tried the 9mm ones seemed to work the best.


Nice to see you posting Charlie. :nod: :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Remember, Captain Obvious says: "Don't tell the missus you've thrown away the filter!"


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## dgerwin11 (Jun 19, 2011)

I think filters of any type, paper or metal stingers, reduce the enjoyment of the experience.


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Gents
Just a cpl Noob questions

1. What is the best temp/rh to store tobacco.?
2. Will tobacco in gars age the same way unopened tins will?
3. Does pipe tobacco ever go through a sick period like cigars do?
4. Do all tobaccos benefit from aging, and how long is considered aging? 
5. I see Dave has a process to reseal his tins, is this better than putting it in jars ?

You can see, I am still wearing my Habanos hat....Thanks for your patience....Al


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

asmartbull said:


> Gents
> Just a cpl Noob questions
> 
> 1. What is the best temp/rh to store tobacco.?
> ...


These questions come up a lot with new pipe smokers and cigar smokers put an odd spin them. :lol:

1. Pipe tobacco isn't really picky about temps, as long as you don't get too extreme. Basically, room temperature is fine. Since you seal it up to store it for any appreciable time (or don't take it out of the can to begin with), it's fine as you receive it. No extra action, just put it in the jar and put it on a shelf.

2. It will generally dry out in an opened tin or pouch over time. This isn't too bad, since tobacco generally needs a bit of drying time before you smoke it, but it eventually just gets stale. Hint: Water is cheaper than tobacco and tobacco is sold by weight.

3. Hmm....I haven't encountered that idea yet. I don't want to hear about it, okay? The nearest thing to that would be tobacco that doesn't have enough age on it -- a little "green" in other words. Age it.

4. The standard wisdom on this is that burley's don't, Virginias do. The cognoscenti here have tobacco that's older than some of the posters. Aromatics don't age well, because whatever is used to flavor them deteriorates, even in a closed container.

If the tin is uncompromised, it will age fine there, but the problem with tins is that they spring invisible leaks, hence preserving jars are the preferred storage medium, the standard Mason/Ball jars used for strawberry jam and pickles.

5. I'm lazy. I'd just put whatever in a Mason jar.


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Thanks Jim
Much appreciated


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Ok, just bought a calabash on fleabay, and with a lot of force managed to loosen the meerschaum bowl... only to find white mold growing inside the pipe and a bit on the meer too. 

Is there anything special I should do beyond the usual S/A treatment (I usually use cottonballs actually, and vodka)? Anything I should be wary of? I've cleaned one calabash before, but it was just well used and plugged up. 

Figured being a calabash and all I had better ask first so I don't screw this thing up!

Thanks!


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

The Mad Professor said:


> Ok, just bought a calabash on fleabay, and with a lot of force managed to loosen the meerschaum bowl... only to find white mold growing inside the pipe and a bit on the meer too.


Ewww, I hope smoking that dosent make you uke:...
I hope you can get it clean


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

The Mad Professor said:


> Ok, just bought a calabash on fleabay, and with a lot of force managed to loosen the meerschaum bowl... only to find white mold growing inside the pipe and a bit on the meer too.
> 
> Is there anything special I should do beyond the usual S/A treatment (I usually use cottonballs actually, and vodka)? Anything I should be wary of? I've cleaned one calabash before, but it was just well used and plugged up.
> 
> ...


If you didn't damage the cork and airtight seal when removing the bowl then you probably got lucky. Use care around the cork - keep it clean and intact. As a rule, never force ANYTHING on ANY pipe because they are all easy to break. Anything locked up on a pipe can usually be loosened with a little heat or cold.

Depending on how gunky the gourd is I wouldn't bother with cotton or salt. Remove the stem (not the ferrule) and pour in the highest proof alcohol possible (190 Everclear is ideal) taking care to keep it off of the cork. Let it soak for a few minutes and pour it out the stem end. Repeat until clean if the pipe is tar-filled or gunky. If necessary, agitate the grunge mid-soak with a soft pipecleaner to loosen it. If you don't know a stem from a ferrule - or if the stem won't twist out easily - ask before forcing something to avoid the dreaded "ker-SNAP" sound.

A picture would help a lot.

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/v...286810-cleaning-restoring-gourd-calabash.html


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Here's a look at a clean, secure cork and a clean, dry gourd interior.

Top left is a meerschaum bowl, inverted. Meerschaum can be very soft when warm and it is easy to open up the diameter of airhole with a pipecleaner. Clean it carefully/gently when the pipe is cool.

If gunk accumulates on the _*underside*_ of the bowl, flip it upsidedown and set fire to it; it will at once burn off and harden the clay. If cake acculates inside the bowl, scrape/shave/sand it out carefully when the pipe is cold as you would with any meer taking care not to cut into the clay.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Thanks for the advice Mister Moo! Ok, here is a pic of the underside. Sorry took so long to get it posted. This whitish/greenish mold is on both the meer and the gourd. I assume it is just from sitting for years after the last smoke, and maybe lack of cleaning prior to that.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Wow. Some mold on meer. I am calling in my meer expert on that.

Cork looks good and the underside of the bowl seems fine.

Calabash gourd is pretty tough stuff. Try some alky rinses as suggested and wipe out with a paper towel; let dry for a day or two. See what your nose tells you after it's dry. If mold stink persists we shall surely come up with more better/advice.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Great, got me some Everclear 151 proof and ready to douse! Thanks again Mister Moo!


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

The Mad Professor said:


> Great, got me some Everclear 151 proof and ready to douse! Thanks again Mister Moo!


Mold + meer + gourd - the jury is out. I never experienced mold in a pipe before, least of all in a calabash. There is a lot going on in a calabash.

My expert sounded a little pessimistic but he wanted to talk with his expert before making a comment on mold.

I think it is time to hunt down IKMeerschaum for some thoughts on mold.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Mister Moo said:


> ...My expert sounded a little pessimistic but he wanted to talk with his expert before making a comment on mold.


My guy said, "...nobody I've talked to has heard of mold on meer, including 3 experts. The word is to clean it thoroughly with Everclear and see if it goes away but they're not optimistic. Mold has a way of leaving its own flavor. They think the pipe is dead. But since [you] already ... [own] it, ...at least try to clean it up and see if that works."

Maybe IKMeerschaum will reply here with more optimistic or specific advice.

If the mold can't be defeated with repeated alcohol/wiping treaments the pipe is probably a paperweight. If the pipe was sold "As Is" (or not) you could attempt a return for refund. A moldy pipe is not useful for the purpose intended.

The lords of chlorine bleach have recently renounced its' efficacy in killing mold on porous materials. Clay, vulcanite and calabash are both porous so bleach isn't looking too whippy. Chlorine Bleach Effects

Another master of mold removal says, "For porous materials ... you should decide whether they are salvageable on a case by case basis depending on how severe the mold growth is and how valuable the item is to you. If the item is not highly valuable to you and the mold growth is extensive so that the item is beyond repair then the best option is to dispose of it and replace it." Mold Removal & Remediation Process, Cleaning Items, Room & Home

I think any effort you make on restoration is going to be groundbreaking research. Keep a journal. Take pictures. Have the reworked pipe test-smoked by someone you already hate.

Purchasing a worthwhile calabash meer/gourd takes research and careful selection - they make for bad impulse purchses. I have (and REALLY like) the same model Pioneer calabash you bought but I spent a lot of time studying the genre before making my selection.

At the moment I am hoping you can get a refund and start over.

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/general-pipe-forum/201011-calabash-sex-appeal-catch.html


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## IKMeerschaum (Feb 8, 2007)

Mister Moo said:


> I think it is time to hunt down IKMeerschaum for some thoughts on mold.


It probably is not as unusual as you might think. Given that the gourd prone to soak up moisture from the atmosphere as well as the smoke, molding is the result of not having been kept dry for a prolonged period of time.

The mold that is attached to the bowl _SHOULD_ just knock off if you wipe it with a dry paper towel. From the picture, it appears to have the consistency of bloom on a cigar and should flake off the stone. If you are finding residue left behind you have a couple of choices:

Cleanest, most sanitary is to replace the bowl with a new one. They can be found in many locations however if your bowl is really old it is probably whole block meerschaum and very few people will carry block (as opposed to reformulated or pressed) meerschaum calabash bowls due to the cost. We do carry reformed bowls in smooth or lattice finish if you want to check prices. The link is in the signature below.
If it is whole block, you could try rubbing it vigorously with a lightly dampened (with denatured alcohol not a sweetner) piece of cotton cloth. Since this section of the pipe is not coated with beeswax, there is no worry about destroying that part of it and if it is whole block, you won't risk the integrity of the bowl.
If it is pressed or reformed meerschaum (look for molding marks), then you don't want to get it wet with anything if possible. If you still need to clean this (meaning the mold has penetrated into the stone) you can try lightly sanding down the affected areas (but not where it meets the cork that seals your calabash bowl) with a fine grit sandpaper. You shouldn't have to "shave" off more than a millimeter or two for this to work. It won't adversely affect the bowl or smoke if you don't go too far (this isn't the time to try out your new belt sander).

Good luck with your Calabash. Looks like you've got a beauty!

MJG


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Wow, that is a shame. Hope it just wipes off for ya!


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Regarding the mold in the gourd IKMeerschaum added via pm:

*"Sorry, missed that... I would think the best solution would be to go the salt-method route in the gourd.

The biggest concern is that he should pack it to just below the cork. If the mold is in the cork, he can replace it by getting a similarly thick sheet of cork from Michael's (or other craft store) and cut a replacement for that."*

And that's the way it is.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Oh, _that_ IKMeerschaum! Haha, I could have just hopped on the bike and showed him in person! :lol:

Thank you both for your help and advice! I'm more than happy to take on the challenge of cleaning this. I didn't think the mold looked too bad on the meer. It looked like it was mostly on the gourd and grew over onto the meer. I'm hoping that it will indeed scrape off and clean up with some alcohol.

I bought this as a second calabash, since I loved my first so, and I have half a mind to keep picking up ones for the right price and restoring them, maybe reselling eventually? Either way, I have found that I enjoy restoring pipes almost more than I enjoy smoking them, and I love calabash pipes!

I'll take pictures and post about the events. Thanks again!


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## IKMeerschaum (Feb 8, 2007)

The Mad Professor said:


> Oh, _that_ IKMeerschaum! Haha, I could have just hopped on the bike and showed him in person! :lol:


Well, if you do, we'd love to see you! BTW - Tom is probably the expert so if you come in (any day but Sunday or Monday) ask for him. He works morning and afternoon shift.

MJG


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

IKMeerschaum said:


> Well, if you do, we'd love to see you! BTW - Tom is probably the expert so if you come in (any day but Sunday or Monday) ask for him. He works morning and afternoon shift.
> 
> MJG


Will do, thanks! I've been meaning to come down that way for a while now and check out your store. Just up the 405 in Long Beach here.


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## Kodos44 (Jun 22, 2011)

Xodar said:


> Even once you reach the point where you *could* smoke a bowl through without relights, the amount of maintenance and micro-managing that's often necessary to get that done seems like a lot of work as opposed to just lighting it again. It's (usually) not a contest to keep it lit, smoke how you enjoy it.


I've always been a competitive person, I've been a pipe Noob for about a month now and find myself trying to do whatever I need to do to get thru a bowl without relighting. I CAN do it now but yeah, it takes a lot of attention. Thanks for the reminder that there's noone handing out medals for this :mrgreen:


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)




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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Sniff. I always cry at these ceremonies...


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## Kodos44 (Jun 22, 2011)

And the crowd of one goes wild. Lol. Thanks, I seriously almost fell out of my chair ! :r


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## owaindav (Mar 7, 2010)

Derrick, that was friggin' hilarious! RG to ya bro!

edit: Crap, guess I've been a bit stingy with the RG lately and I've given you some too recently. Well, it was still funny as hell!


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## Tinuz (Jul 7, 2011)

Small question: I can taste some difference between tobaccos, but not all that much. E.g. Peterson's Irish Whiskey vs. their University Flake taste the same to me, although I can taste a difference with MacBaren Scottish blend or something. Is that normal, something that needs to develop? Or am I doing something wrong?


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

I wouldn't worry about it. When I started, it all tasted the same to me, what little taste I got.


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Tinuz said:


> Small question: I can taste some difference between tobaccos, but not all that much. E.g. Peterson's Irish Whiskey vs. their University Flake taste the same to me, although I can taste a difference with MacBaren Scottish blend or something. Is that normal, something that needs to develop? Or am I doing something wrong?


Totally normal. It takes time to develop your palate for pipe tobacco aromas/flavors, especially if you're used to cigars. Plus, it seems that you're smoking mostly aromatics who's flavorings are masking natural tobacco flavor. I recommend you move to english blends or minimally cased virginia/perique blends.

Also, if you're not retrohaling you could be missing out on a lot. I don't really "taste" tobaccos so much as I "smell" them. Here's a good explanation:
YouTube - Retrohaling Your Cigar Smoke


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## Tinuz (Jul 7, 2011)

ChronoB said:


> Totally normal. It takes time to develop your palate for pipe tobacco aromas/flavors, especially if you're used to cigars. Plus, it seems that you're smoking mostly aromatics who's flavorings are masking natural tobacco flavor. I recommend you move to english blends or minimally cased virginia/perique blends.
> 
> Also, if you're not retrohaling you could be missing out on a lot. I don't really "taste" tobaccos so much as I "smell" them. Here's a good explanation:
> YouTube - Retrohaling Your Cigar Smoke[/URL]


Well, those were just examples... but I will give some English tobaccos a try next time I need to get something in the B&M.

I tried retrohaling, which I can do, but it feels very annoying. I need to make a clicking sound in the back of my throat, close my mouth, and then put some overpressure in it... sounds annoying? It is... Also, it gives me a terrible throat ache the morning after, probably because I am doing something wrong. Still, difficult to get worked out.

PS. I never really smoked cigars, cigarettes, yes... but those hardly taste like anything.


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Tinuz said:


> Well, those were just examples... but I will give some English tobaccos a try next time I need to get something in the B&M.
> 
> I tried retrohaling, which I can do, but it feels very annoying. I need to make a clicking sound in the back of my throat, close my mouth, and then put some overpressure in it... sounds annoying? It is... Also, it gives me a terrible throat ache the morning after, probably because I am doing something wrong. Still, difficult to get worked out.
> 
> PS. I never really smoked cigars, cigarettes, yes... but those hardly taste like anything.


Your profile says you live in Ghent. Is that Ghent, Belgium? I won't pretend to know what the B&Ms are like over there, but over here unless they have a good selection of tinned tobacco, the stuff in jars they call english or balkan might not really be.

Since MacBaren is available I recommend you try the HH Vintage Syrian. I would think Samuel Gawith Squadron Leader or Commonwealth are available there, as well as Dunhill London Mixture or Standard Mixture. Start your "english" journey with those.

With time and practice retrohaling can become smooth and easy to perform, and the more you smoke the less irritating the smoke will be to your mouth and sinuses, allowing you to really pay attention to the flavors/aromas. Retrohaling isn't for everyone, but had I not discovered it I wouldn't have stuck with pipe smoking. And don't neglect cigars. They present a different flavor/aroma profile, and are a wonderful change of pace, even for devoted pipe smokers like me.


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## Tinuz (Jul 7, 2011)

ChronoB said:


> Your profile says you live in Ghent. Is that Ghent, Belgium? I won't pretend to know what the B&Ms are like over there, but over here unless they have a good selection of tinned tobacco, the stuff in jars they call english or balkan might not really be.
> 
> Since MacBaren is available I recommend you try the HH Vintage Syrian. I would think Samuel Gawith Squadron Leader or Commonwealth are available there, as well as Dunhill London Mixture or Standard Mixture. Start your "english" journey with those.
> 
> With time and practice retrohaling can become smooth and easy to perform, and the more you smoke the less irritating the smoke will be to your mouth and sinuses, allowing you to really pay attention to the flavors/aromas. Retrohaling isn't for everyone, but had I not discovered it I wouldn't have stuck with pipe smoking. And don't neglect cigars. They present a different flavor/aroma profile, and are a wonderful change of pace, even for devoted pipe smokers like me.


Yes, that would be Ghent, Belgium. To me it seems most of the Tobacco available here is all brand (I've seen Peterson, MacBaren, Alsbo, Savinelli, Skandinavik, and a whole bunch more), so I am not that afraid of getting something weird without knowing it (I've never seen jarred tobacco here*). The main problem is that the availability isn't that great...there is literally one good Tobacconist in town that carries a small selection of pipe tobacco. Anyway, I'll give it a whirl and see what I come up with.

I do like cigars, no problems in that department. But I never thought of them as a day to day thing, but rather an occasional luxury. I guess that can change, but the thought of spending 7 Euros on an hour of smoke makes me cringe (So, can you guess my nationality now? It's not Belgian  )...I guess I will have to man up, no?

*: Given that everything that contains tobacco here has to be sealed in a package with a stamp that shows that it has been taxed, I guess selling form jars is illegal? Not sure, but I have never seen it.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Tinuz said:


> Yes, that would be Ghent, Belgium.


Might want to give 4noggins a shot for ordering some supplies.

I was in Ghent once, maybe twice, back when I was a kid. Belgium was really neat back in the 50s. Great food!


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Tinuz said:


> Small question: I can taste some difference between tobaccos, but not all that much. E.g. Peterson's Irish Whiskey vs. their University Flake taste the same to me, although I can taste a difference with MacBaren Scottish blend or something. Is that normal, something that needs to develop? Or am I doing something wrong?


Consider some of the most unique kentucky tobacco in the world is grown in Belgium; it has a VERY distinct flavor profile that cannot be confused with anything else, it is easy to smoke but does have a high nicotine content. I especially recommend the Manil Reserve du Patron.

Contact:

Vincent MANIL, Corbion s/Semois ([email protected])
J.P. COUVERT, Corbion s/Semois ([email protected])


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

I have looked (by doing a search) through many a threads on the subject of pipe screens. About a year ago...I purchased about 500 (it seems) brass screens for pipes...as I thought that I may need them whenever I pick up pipe smoking again. However, as some of you know...I am looking to move from my Briars to cobs...

Question, why is there not much talk about screens here...are they useless...junk...an issue, etc.? I see that they can be a cause for damage...I get that...but overall, what is the use of...or issues of using a brass screen in the bottom of your pipe...?

Any info would be helpful!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

quo155 said:


> Question, why is there not much talk about screens here...are they useless...junk...an issue, etc.? I see that they can be a cause for damage...I get that...but overall, what is the use of...or issues of using a brass screen in the bottom of your pipe...?
> 
> Any info would be helpful!


I prefer the heel of my pipe to char and dry out at the end of a smoke. It seems to me that the screen would prevent the condensed gunk from burning off and gradually sour a briar. The heel never chars like the top of the pipe, but it does cake up a little at least. Having it so keeps the smoke drier than it otherwise would be. I almost never dump a wet dottle, even if I have "suffer" from time to time at the end to burn it all. :lol:


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

freestoke said:


> I prefer the heel of my pipe to char and dry out at the end of a smoke. It seems to me that the screen would prevent the condensed gunk from burning off and gradually sour a briar. The heel never chars like the top of the pipe, but it does cake up a little at least. Having it so keeps the smoke drier than it otherwise would be. I almost never dump a wet dottle, even if I have "suffer" from time to time at the end to burn it all. :lol:


Thank you Jim for the info...I have no idea why I bought them...sounded like a fine idea back then...but I have never used them...and not just from what you've said...but also because I would like everything to happen naturally...as it was intended...especially with cob...

Thanks!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

quo155 said:


> ...sounded like a fine idea back then...but I have never used them...
> 
> Thanks!


:tu With a cob, it's a little different. You WANT the ashes and stuff to fall past the stem sticking into the bowl, to fill it in. I haven't been smoking cobs very long (since xmas), but they have all filled in so that the bottom is actually smoothed over with collected detritus. Almost like the bottom of a briar in there now and you can barely see the stem any more. Oddly, I don't fire up the end of a cob smoke if it goes out, because I don't want to incinerate the stem -- sometimes DO dump a little tobacco with the cobs, especially when I was first breaking them in. The experts told me to dump when I first started tasting turpentine, never insert a metal pipe tool in the bowl and just knock out what you can on your palm and what you push out when you run a pipe cleaner through. I also wipe out the bowl with a damp paper towel from time to time. (I also might scrape a bit with a wooden golf tee, to control char build up, but that's about it.)


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## Tinuz (Jul 7, 2011)

Speaking of smoking till the bitter end, how the heck do I prevent myself from spitting in the pipe? I know about keeping my tongue away, and about keeping it all as dry as possible. However, my smokes still tend to turn bitter near the end, and when I clean the pipe, everything tends to be wet and messy (likely due to me being a spitballing monster). Anything I should be looking for in my piping?

Also, am I the only one who absolutely can't continue as soon as that thing turns bitter/sour? It just irritates my mouth and nose to the point where I can feel them all evening after a smoke... not pleasant at all.


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Tinuz said:


> Speaking of smoking till the bitter end, how the heck do I prevent myself from spitting in the pipe? I know about keeping my tongue away, and about keeping it all as dry as possible. However, my smokes still tend to turn bitter near the end, and when I clean the pipe, everything tends to be wet and messy (likely due to me being a spitballing monster). Anything I should be looking for in my piping?
> 
> Also, am I the only one who absolutely can't continue as soon as that thing turns bitter/sour? It just irritates my mouth and nose to the point where I can feel them all evening after a smoke... not pleasant at all.


Several things can contribute to too much moisture in the bowl. Over-salivation is certainly one of them, and over time you'll salivate less as you smoke more. But that moisture might be coming from your tobaccco, especially if they are aromatics, or have a lot of propelyne glycol as a humectant. Try letting your tobacco dry out a little before loading the pipe; set the portion to smoke out on a piece of paper for 20 minutes or a half hour (don't let it get bone dry, though). Smoking the pipe too hot can contribute to too much moisture building up (along with umpleasant flavors/aromas).

Even when I have my tobacco just right, packing and smoking just right, there is still some moisture accumulation during the smoke, and I run a pipe cleaner through just to keep things as dry as possible.

Regardless, no shame in ending a bowl if it gets sour/bitter, and feel no obligation to smoke every bit of tobacco to the bottom. Just like a cigar, the less pleasant tasting byproducts of burning can build up towards the end, and if it no longer tastes good then light up a new cigar, or fill another pipe with your favorite blend and smoke on.


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## InsidiousTact (Dec 3, 2010)

Tinuz said:


> Speaking of smoking till the bitter end, how the heck do I prevent myself from spitting in the pipe? I know about keeping my tongue away, and about keeping it all as dry as possible. However, my smokes still tend to turn bitter near the end, and when I clean the pipe, everything tends to be wet and messy (likely due to me being a spitballing monster). Anything I should be looking for in my piping?
> 
> Also, am I the only one who absolutely can't continue as soon as that thing turns bitter/sour? It just irritates my mouth and nose to the point where I can feel them all evening after a smoke... not pleasant at all.


You could either hold the pipe all the time and keep it barely in your lips, or use a pipe cleaner to periodically remove the built-up moisture.

And don't worry about it really, smoke to the point that you enjoy, and when you no longer enjoy smoking then stop. It should be an enjoyable experience. I typically dump a good-sized wet dottle at the end, it's no big deal.


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

ChronoB said:


> Several things can contribute to too much moisture in the bowl. Over-salivation is certainly one of them, and over time you'll salivate less as you smoke more. But that moisture might be coming from your tobaccco, especially if they are aromatics, or have a lot of propelyne glycol as a humectant. Try letting your tobacco dry out a little before loading the pipe; set the portion to smoke out on a piece of paper for 20 minutes or a half hour (don't let it get bone dry, though). Smoking the pipe too hot can contribute to too much moisture building up (along with umpleasant flavors/aromas).
> 
> Even when I have my tobacco just right, packing and smoking just right, there is still some moisture accumulation during the smoke, and I run a pipe cleaner through just to keep things as dry as possible.
> 
> Regardless, no shame in ending a bowl if it gets sour/bitter, and feel no obligation to smoke every bit of tobacco to the bottom. Just like a cigar, the less pleasant tasting byproducts of burning can build up towards the end, and if it no longer tastes good then light up a new cigar, or fill another pipe with your favorite blend and smoke on.


That tip will help me out a lot! I tend to over-salivate in anything that I do..._tobacco related_. I also recently learned that I have been keeping my pipe tobac. too wet...keeping it around 65%+/- humidity...not a good thing...plus, other than a few blends that I have, most of what I have always smoked has been drug store..._sugar infused tobaccos_...so, I'm looking forward to some "good tobacco" when my trade comes in!

Thanks!


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

InsidiousTact said:


> You could either hold the pipe all the time and keep it barely in your lips, or use a pipe cleaner to periodically remove the built-up moisture.
> 
> And don't worry about it really, smoke to the point that you enjoy, and when you no longer enjoy smoking then stop. It should be an enjoyable experience. I typically dump a good-sized wet dottle at the end, it's no big deal.


OK, that brings me to a question...what is best..._as I have heard both_; to empty the pipe right after "finishing"...or let it set in there until cool?


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

The only reason I can think of to let it sit in there is to promote a char on the heel, letting a hot ember do as much as it can before you dump it.

But don't confuse that with taking a pipe apart while it is hot. After a smoke the tenon will have a tendency to expand, and repeatedly taking a pipe apart and putting it back together hot can make for a loose fit when it cools down.


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## InsidiousTact (Dec 3, 2010)

quo155 said:


> OK, that brings me to a question...what is best..._as I have heard both_; to empty the pipe right after "finishing"...or let it set in there until cool?


Well, I used to be very finicky and thought it all had to be done perfectly, but now I've come to the realization that I probably couldn't hurt anything unless I really tried. So, I don't think it makes much difference really. Typically I dump it pretty quick after finishing and by the time I've finished swabbing the stem/bit and bowl (I bend a pipe cleaner in half and run it around in the bowl) it's cool. Do what you're comfortable with, and relax.

There's stories of codgers smoking one pipe 5+ times a day, every day without ever cleaning it or reaming it for 20 years, and the cake's so thick that you couldn't stick your little finger in the bowl! They still enjoyed themselves. Hell, I've even heard of those pipes being picked up and returned to a presentable state!


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

Xodar said:


> The only reason I can think of to let it sit in there is to promote a char on the heel, letting a hot ember do as much as it can before you dump it.
> 
> But don't confuse that with taking a pipe apart while it is hot. After a smoke the tenon will have a tendency to expand, and repeatedly taking a pipe apart and putting it back together hot can make for a loose fit when it cools down.





InsidiousTact said:


> Well, I used to be very finicky and thought it all had to be done perfectly, but now I've come to the realization that I probably couldn't hurt anything unless I really tried. So, I don't think it makes much difference really. Typically I dump it pretty quick after finishing and by the time I've finished swabbing the stem/bit and bowl (I bend a pipe cleaner in half and run it around in the bowl) it's cool. Do what you're comfortable with, and relax.
> 
> There's stories of codgers smoking one pipe 5+ times a day, every day without ever cleaning it or reaming it for 20 years, and the cake's so thick that you couldn't stick your little finger in the bowl! They still enjoyed themselves. Hell, I've even heard of those pipes being picked up and returned to a presentable state!


Both of you had great points..._that's what I figured_...so I will be doing just that..._finding what I like best_...and doing that...while I relax!

Thanks!


----------



## Tinuz (Jul 7, 2011)

Oh, I know something about this! If I clean my pipes out immediately, it tends to be easier to remove dottle and other crap at the bottom. I am guessing that letting it sit a while thus promotes cake, as you take off less of the ashes inside the bowl. Also, as you start breaking it in, I would not wipe the bowl. I did so in the beginning, and I just couldn't get a cake to build. After stopping this, a healthy cake has built up quite rapidly. One note though, I may have just cleaned too hard...  

PS. I just practiced my retrohaling with some dried out tobacco (Try tongue bite in your nose...it can't be much fun) and it worked wonders. Anyone else getting some peppery, nutty and sweet notes in MacBaren Vanilla Cream? Also, I seem to be getting a plum like aftertaste... rather odd combo, not unpleasant, but odd...


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Tinuz said:


> I just practiced my retrohaling with some dried out tobacco (Try tongue bite in your nose...it can't be much fun) and it worked wonders. .


Glad to hear you're getting the hang of it!


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

quo155 said:


> OK, that brings me to a question...what is best..._as I have heard both_; to empty the pipe right after "finishing"...or let it set in there until cool?


Hot/warm pipes are expanded, full of moisture and therefore relatively soft, I speculate. While briar won't crumble under a little rubbing if moist and warm, forming cake does and meerschaum will for sure. Loss of some cake is no great drama but ruining a meer seems like a waste of clay.


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## InsidiousTact (Dec 3, 2010)

Mister Moo said:


> Hot/warm pipes are expanded, full of moisture and therefore relatively soft, I speculate. While briar won't crumble under a little rubbing if moist and warm, forming cake does and meerschaum will for sure. Loss of some cake is no great drama but ruining a meer seems like a waste of clay.


A bent over pipe cleaner wouldn't hurt a meer though, would it?


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

Xodar said:


> The only reason I can think of to let it sit in there is to promote a char on the heel, letting a hot ember do as much as it can before you dump it.
> ...


Possibly, although many put down the pipe only after it stops making smoke (or one is spitting out ashes) so no ember would be present. However, I do find that it does dry the bowl, shank and other parts must better IF you let the ash cool before dumping. It seems to soak up the gunk, which then is disposed into an ashtray (or the flower bed, whichever is more convenient). When time is against me, I have to empty a hot bowl and it always leaves a wet smelly mess in the heel. Ten minutes of cooling time usually leaves a lustrous and dry white ash coating behind, and it don't reek which means I get more smokes out of that pipe before I have to alchy-clean it.


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## Tinuz (Jul 7, 2011)

RJpuffs said:


> Ten minutes of cooling time usually leaves a lustrous and dry white ash coating behind, and it don't reek which means I get more smokes out of that pipe before I have to alchy-clean it.


Possibly, then what would I do with that single malt? :wink:

Anyway, another small question: How long should a bowl last? It usually takes me at least an hour, more likely 1.5... Which is nice, but because it takes so long, I usually end up dumping out the very last bit, reducing cake build up at the heel. Is this normal? Should I just man up, and puff on? Or am I just packing to tight?


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

Tinuz said:


> Anyway, another small question: How long should a bowl last? It usually takes me at least an hour, more likely 1.5... Which is nice, but because it takes so long, I usually end up dumping out the very last bit, reducing cake build up at the heel. Is this normal? Should I just man up, and puff on? Or am I just packing to tight?


This depends on many factors, the bowl size, the cut of the tobacco, and even how you packed it. That being said, if you feel like it is taking too long you might want to look at getting a pipe with a smaller bowl. I have many pipes with different size bowls for just that reason. One of the things I consider when I pick which pipe I am going to smoke is haw much time I have.


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

Tinuz said:


> Possibly, then what would I do with that single malt? :wink:
> 
> Anyway, another small question: How long should a bowl last? It usually takes me at least an hour, more likely 1.5... Which is nice, but because it takes so long, I usually end up dumping out the very last bit, reducing cake build up at the heel. Is this normal? Should I just man up, and puff on? Or am I just packing to tight?


There is nothing that says you have to load a bowl full either. If I am looking for a 15 min smoke I pack a pinch in a cob.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

Xodar said:


> There is nothing that says you have to load a bowl full either. If I am looking for a 15 min smoke I pack a pinch in a cob.


Yup, this is true, I somtimes load the bowl half full.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

InsidiousTact said:


> A bent over pipe cleaner wouldn't hurt a meer though, would it?


 Nah, but I have seen pix of meers where folks managed to push pipecleaners through the stem, into the bowl and then dig out a hole opposite the airway.


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## InsidiousTact (Dec 3, 2010)

Mister Moo said:


> Nah, but I have seen pix of meers where folks managed to push pipecleaners through the stem, into the bowl and then dig out a hole opposite the airway.


Well, there's no way I'm letting that happen with my expensive puff meer, lol. I'm gonna be extra careful now.


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

I just wanted to note that I am _still_ getting some great advice from all of you here in this thread... thanks! op2:


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Mister Moo said:


> Nah, but I have seen pix of meers where folks managed to push pipecleaners through the stem, into the bowl and then dig out a hole opposite the airway.


Hell, you can do that with briar, too! I have a Dunhill estate I got in a lot buy with a cavern opposite the draught hole I had to fill with pipe mud. Talk about a heavy hand, another few years and he'd have made it right out the other side.


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## Tinuz (Jul 7, 2011)

Sorry for bothering you guys so much... I am just getting into this heavy, and I am just getting a decent taste. So I am looking to smooth out the little kinks. 

Anyway, when I relight, I usually get a bitter taste out of the pipe. First, I figured this was me drooling into the pipe, but having eliminated most of that, and starting to retrohale, I am noticing something odd. My tongue tastes bitter, but my nose 'tastes' the regular taste of the tobacco. So, I am guessing the relight spoiled some tobacco oils, and I am inhaling that right after, fouling the taste in my mouth. So, any suggestions on how to get rid of this?

EDIT: PS. Going to try my first cigar tonight...excited! Well, seriously try it....


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Tinuz said:


> Sorry for bothering you guys so much... I am just getting into this heavy, and I am just getting a decent taste. So I am looking to smooth out the little kinks.
> 
> Anyway, when I relight, I usually get a bitter taste out of the pipe. First, I figured this was me drooling into the pipe, but having eliminated most of that, and starting to retrohale, I am noticing something odd. My tongue tastes bitter, but my nose 'tastes' the regular taste of the tobacco. So, I am guessing the relight spoiled some tobacco oils, and I am inhaling that right after, fouling the taste in my mouth. So, any suggestions on how to get rid of this?
> 
> EDIT: PS. Going to try my first cigar tonight...excited! Well, seriously try it....


As the tobacco burns down, the lower layers condense the nicotine and byproducts of combustion some. As long as the pipe doesn't go out and is smoked normally, there's not quite so much heat, so even though the smoke gradually grows stronger in moisture and nicotine and such, it increases by degrees. When you relight, you are suddenly vaporizing all that at high heat, so there's a big dose at first.

Although the best recourse is to learn to minimize the relights, a stop gap is to make sure that the relight doesn't hit directly on your tongue if you can, directing the smoke into more open space in your mouth. Get the relight established in this way before returning to a normal puff cadence. The taste and flavor should return more or less to normal as the ember cools to a lower, more tolerable burning temperature and that first big rush of vaporized nastiness dissipates.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Use a pipecleaner before relighting, during gurgling or after drooling.


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## InsidiousTact (Dec 3, 2010)

Also, if it's a burley blend, that's pretty much unavoidable AFAIK. they just tend to be bitter on relights.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Mister Moo said:


> Use a pipecleaner before relighting, during gurgling or after drooling.


Yeah, that too! :lol: On rereading the question, it does sound like he might be getting a wet glob right off. That's definitely unpleasant. I would only add that the pipe cleaner doesn't always get the little crevice that's at the nib, and some munge can also be trapped outside the stem at the lip. You can use the pipe cleaner, but a tissue or piece of paper towel is easier for that, if you just happen to have one handy.


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## Tinuz (Jul 7, 2011)

freestoke said:


> Yeah, that too! :lol: On rereading the question, it does sound like he might be getting a wet glob right off. That's definitely unpleasant. I would only add that the pipe cleaner doesn't always get the little crevice that's at the nib, and some munge can also be trapped outside the stem at the lip. You can use the pipe cleaner, but a tissue or piece of paper towel is easier for that, if you just happen to have one handy.


I do that already. ;-) I do occasionally get a wet gob, and these days I seem to get some wet ashes in my pipe stem...not sure what that means, but it doesn't seem to affect taste too much (or maybe it does, and I just don't know it does  ). Anyway, I will give it a shot, and see how it pans out. Not relighting is a challenge still though...


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## Swany (Aug 20, 2010)

Here's a question, Are the Dr Grabow pipes good pipes and would they be good for beginners?


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

A pipe doesn't have to be high end to be a good pipe, and they sell a hell of a lot of Grabows. The Duke I have is a great smoker, and it was kind of an impulse buy since they sell them at big chain stores. I suppose they have a variance in quality like anyone else, but you don't see a lot of criticism about Grabows online either.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

I started with a Dr. Grabow. Still have it, and it still smokes well, although now that I've fallen down the slope I rarely reach for it any more. Too many other pipes...


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

MarkC said:


> I started with a Dr. Grabow. Still have it, and it still smokes well, although now that I've fallen down the slope I rarely reach for it any more. Too many other pipes...


For some reason...for some reason...I don't know...I'm feeling PAD all of a sudden.


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## Swany (Aug 20, 2010)

Thanks for the responses, next question, what is pad.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Swany said:


> ...what is pad.


I'd rather not discuss it. I'm really worried and trying to think of other things.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

freestoke said:


> I'd rather not discuss it. I'm really worried and trying to think of other things.


 +1 mg:


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Swany said:


> Here's a question, Are the Dr Grabow pipes good pipes and would they be good for beginners?


my cobs smoke better than my Grabow.....


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Swany said:


> Here's a question, Are the Dr Grabow pipes good pipes and would they be good for beginners?


Nothing wrong a Grabow as your starter pipe. I also recommend a quality estate pipe from a reputable retailer. They're proven smokers that are already broken-in.


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## dgerwin11 (Jun 19, 2011)

asmartbull said:


> my cobs smoke better than my Grabow.....


I am a lover of cobs, but will try to be unbiased.
A briar takes longer and requires a little more care than a cob to break in. for years I looked down my nose at DrG. But I dug one out of the back of the drawer and gave the stem a good alcohol treatment, fitted it with a 6mm converter tube and got a very pleasing smoke from it. So much so I went out and got 2 more. They are almost broken in. One is OK and one is real good. Smokes on par almost with one of my MM great Dane Eggs. Might even be better with age.

If Dr G is what fits your budget, buy it and smoke it with pride. I like them for the quality/price ratio. On one of these forums, someone said (and I paraphrase) my budget pipe smokes as well as your expensive pipe in the dark.


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

Gents,,,

With high RH in the summer months....How are you drying you tobacco before filling your pipes. I see the oven and microwave is a no-no....??
Thanks in advance...Bull


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

asmartbull said:


> Gents,,,
> 
> With high RH in the summer months....How are you drying you tobacco before filling your pipes. I see the oven and microwave is a no-no....??
> Thanks in advance...Bull


Well, simply setting out a bowl's worth for a little while (half hour or hour) should dry it out sufficiently unless you have no AC and live in a high humidity area, or if you're smoking aromatics or some other heavily humidified blend.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

ChronoB said:


> Well, simply setting out a bowl's worth for a little while (half hour or hour) should dry it out sufficiently unless you have no AC and live in a high humidity area, or if you're smoking aromatics or some other heavily humidified blend.


Around here, AC is only necessary about 7 days a year. I think I turned mine on for 5 or 6 days during the big heat wave and that looks like it will be it for the year. It simply isn't possible to dry out tobacco from late spring to early fall in Central New York most of the time. In September, when the heat starts to come back on, it works leaving it out, but the rest of the time it just gets wetter! :lol:

If you haven't replaced all your incandescent light bulbs***, putting the tobacco on a paper plate under a desk lamp seems to do the job. Gotta get it about a foot away or so, so you might have to put it on a box or something to get it a little closer, but a gooseneck lamp would make it really easy too.

Like you say, a lot of the aromatics don't dry out because of the propylene glycol content, especially a lot of the OTCs which are apparently designed for a shelf life of centuries.

***Minor rant. The flourescent bulbs touted for their energy efficiency are massively less efficient in this area. They are HEAT SOURCES! All that "wasted energy" is not wasted in Central New York and the huge energy costs of making and disposing of the fluorescents overwhelms any energy savings advantage they might have.


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## Kodos44 (Jun 22, 2011)

I have a nice Dr. Grabow. It's my first briar. I'm still new so I'm still breaking it in, which can take a little bit of time and patience. Currently most of my smokes are out of my 4 MM cobs. They just smoke so nicely ROTT and I have a TON of tobaccos that are on my list to be sampled  Don't let anyone look down their nose at your Dr. G.

I think it's cool to be able to get a high dollar smoke out of a budget pipe. :thumb:

Scott


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## Design Or Die (Aug 4, 2011)

Hello, newbie with a question here: 

My friend and I bought some cob pipes (Missouri Meerschaums) at the same time. My friend smokes more pipe tobacco, but I only have this one pipe. His pipe looks about the same as when he bought it, but I swear mine has plumped up about twice its original size and the cob is starting to crack from the expansion.

Did I do something wrong or is this normal? Either way I think I need a new cob, right?

Thank you!


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Design Or Die said:


> Did I do something wrong or is this normal? Either way I think I need a new cob, right?


No, you need a briar :biggrin:


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## dgerwin11 (Jun 19, 2011)

> Did I do something wrong or is this normal? Either way I think I need a new cob, right?


That swelling seems severe. You should have 3 or more pipes to allow one to dry out while the others are smoked. Depending on your budget, I suggest you get some more pipes. Of course cobs are the least expensive way to go, but most of us think a good rotation (I have about a dozen cobs and don't think that can be called a collection) includes cobs and briars. Many will tell you that you can get a god starter briar for $50-$60. They are wrong! A Dr Grabow or Medico will run around $20-$25. They are well made with the holes properly aligned so you should have no trouble with the mechanics. I just happen to think the finish on them leave a lot to be desired. I just take them home and sand down to briar and enjoy.


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## dgerwin11 (Jun 19, 2011)

Also most of us think any excuse to buy another pipe is a good excuse.


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## funbags (Jan 19, 2011)

Design Or Die said:


> mine has plumped up about twice its original size


Have you been smoking it under water?


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

It is really weird what has happened to Triz's cob. I can attest that he has not been smoking it underwater. I think it's a result of too frequent use and probably not drying the tobacco enough too leaving too much moisture. :dunno:

Whatever the problem is, you certainly seem to be able to cure it by obtaining more pipes! :lol:


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

dgerwin11 said:


> That swelling seems severe.


I have this morbid urge to see a photo of it. :spy:


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## 68 Lotus (Jan 13, 2011)

What is the best way to remove and clean the build up in the bowl??


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## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

68 Lotus said:


> What is the best way to remove and clean the build up in the bowl??


If you just want to thin or remove the cake in the bowl you can easily do that with a reamer. I like to keep the cake very thin in mine and usually ream it back to the bare wood. If, however, you want to remove the ghosting left from previous smokes, the salt treatment works best. As to the rim, just put some saliva on it, wait a few minutes, then rub it out. You may have to repeat this several times but you'll be amazed at how well it works.


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## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

By the way, if you don't have a reamer you should get one, it's a "must have" tool for the pipe smoker. You'll occasionally see estate pipes with an out of round bowl, this is from people removing the cake with a knife .... bad idea. Many reamers are available for under $20, I use the Castleford which can be had for $9.95 on Fleabay.

Castleford 5 Piece Multi-Fit Tobacco Pipe Reamer Tool | eBay


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

That whole cake situation looks good to me as it is but the rim needs some spit, paper towels and elbow grease I think.


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## Sblumberjack (Mar 20, 2011)

Is it possible to salvage dried tobacco?


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## 68 Lotus (Jan 13, 2011)

I spit the rim with pretty good results. :thumb:...But since I picked the pipe up in an antique store I figured a good cleaning was in order! :wink:

I'm picking up a reamer today after the suggestion and a little research!... 

Thanks! 

I'll do a little more reading on how to sanitize next! :wink:


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

I have a butner style reamer somewhere, but honestly I do 99% of my maintenance reaming with a pen knife or the blade on my leatherman. Carbon scrapes pretty evenly, and eventually you get the hang of scrape, scrape, look, scrape scrape, look, smoke...
Also, I _always_ have a knife in my pocket, but my reamer stays in the box at home.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Sblumberjack said:


> Is it possible to salvage dried tobacco?


Taking care not to crumble it, put the tabak in a glass or metal bowl and cover it with a wet (but not dripping) towel. I prefer a small bowl and a cotton towel that can be folded over a few times to bulk it up - stays damp for a day or two. Check the tabak every 12-24 hours, depending on how much you have.

If it's just part of a tin, stick a piece of wet paper towel, postage stamp sized, inside and check it a few hours later.


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

Mister Moo said:


> Taking care not to crumble it, put the tabak in a glass or metal bowl and cover it with a wet (but not dripping) towel. I prefer a small bowl and a cotton towel that can be folded over a few times to bulk it up - stays damp for a day or two. Check the tabak every 12-24 hours, depending on how much you have.
> 
> If it's just part of a tin, stick a piece of wet paper towel, postage stamp sized, inside and check it a few hours later.


Great tip...thank you! (Great question too!) I have two packs of tobacco from the mid 50's...and it's a bit on the dry side, and I actually want to try it...it sat sealed for over 50 years (one did, the other is still sealed...so 60ish years)...as I am curious if it has _lasted_ this long...being that it was in it's original packaging...as part of an unopened "Pipe & Starter Kit" that I acquired on eBay 10+ years ago...for like $4!


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

quo155 said:


> Great tip...thank you! (Great question too!) I have two packs of tobacco from the mid 50's...and it's a bit on the dry side, and I actually want to try it...it sat sealed for over 50 years (one did, the other is still sealed...so 60ish years)...as I am curious if it has _lasted_ this long...being that it was in it's original packaging...as part of an unopened "Pipe & Starter Kit" that I acquired on eBay 10+ years ago...for like $4!


WTH? Give it a try, handle gently.

I sniffed a toot from a 30-year old tin of Dr. Rumney's nasal snuff I found the other day. It wasn't deader than a doornail but it wasn't really new-whippy, either. I wouldn't expect much from tobacco that old except to suppose it has passed its prime. If, as a starter kit, it ever HAD a prime. Let us know.


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

Mister Moo said:


> WTH? Give it a try, handle gently.
> 
> I sniffed a toot from a 30-year old tin of Dr. Rumney's nasal snuff I found the other day. It wasn't deader than a doornail but it wasn't really new-whippy, either. I wouldn't expect much from tobacco that old except to suppose it has passed its prime. If, as a starter kit, it ever HAD a prime. Let us know.


Exactly...WTH! :wacko:

The tobacco actually smells very good...I am at the office, so I can't post photos of it...nor do I remember the brand. Once I get that box unpacked (we recently bought a home...and I have yet to run across my pipe goodies!)...I will post photos of the kit, as it is pretty neat...had a nice pipe, pipe cleaners, filters, a "smoking pipe" guide book, two packs of tobacco...and a few little tools. I will also devote a thread to the old tobacco with some photos...and do a review...but I don't expect much...because as you said..._"if it ever had a prime!"_

It should be interesting though...:loco:


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## Sblumberjack (Mar 20, 2011)

Mister Moo said:


> Taking care not to crumble it, put the tabak in a glass or metal bowl and cover it with a wet (but not dripping) towel. I prefer a small bowl and a cotton towel that can be folded over a few times to bulk it up - stays damp for a day or two. Check the tabak every 12-24 hours, depending on how much you have.
> 
> If it's just part of a tin, stick a piece of wet paper towel, postage stamp sized, inside and check it a few hours later.


Awesome. Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try. The baccy is about two oz of a bulk blend called crown achievement. I won it in my clubs monthly raffle. The guy who donated it won it last month and kept it in the zip lock bag and I don't think it was sealed very well. It's drier than a popcorn fart.

Thanks, again.
Chris


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Baggies. Hrumph.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

The Mad Professor said:


> It is really weird what has happened to Triz's cob. I can attest that he has not been smoking it underwater. I think it's a result of too frequent use and probably not drying the tobacco enough too leaving too much moisture. :dunno:
> 
> Whatever the problem is, you certainly seem to be able to cure it by obtaining more pipes! :lol:


Maybe we should _all _get more pipes, just in case! Can't be too careful...


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

MarkC said:


> Maybe we should _all _get more pipes, just in case! Can't be too careful...


:biglaugh:

I'll second this... I guess we should bring it to a vote now... All in favor?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Nick S. said:


> :biglaugh:
> 
> I'll second this... I guess we should bring it to a vote now... All in favor?


AYE!! (I think I might finally spring for one of those $10000 Dunhills...)


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## Colonel_Aureliano (Aug 18, 2011)

How can one determine what company makes local tobacconist bulk blends? I mean I've gotten blends called 24 Karat, Spiced Rum, and Almondine, but I have no clue what they are or what they have (I do know that they are very tasty). I want to be aware of what my blends have so that I can start differentiating the types of tobacco.


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

A lot of B&M's take some of the Lane Tobacco standards and relabel them as their house blends, or sometimes blend them themselves into "their own" tobaccos. Lane 1-Q is probably the most common example of this, they call it House II at my local shop.

Almondine is a tobacco galleria flavor from altadis if I recall correctly. Altadis is another big producer with several brands they make and distribute.


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## Colonel_Aureliano (Aug 18, 2011)

Xodar said:


> A lot of B&M's take some of the Lane Tobacco standards and relabel them as their house blends, or sometimes blend them themselves into "their own" tobaccos. Lane 1-Q is probably the most common example of this, they call it House II at my local shop.
> 
> Almondine is a tobacco galleria flavor from altadis if I recall correctly. Altadis is another big producer with several brands they make and distribute.


Are they decent brands?

Edit: Quality wise, of course.


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

Colonel_Aureliano said:


> Are they decent brands?
> 
> Edit: Quality wise, of course.


A lot of people smoke both, but for my personal take:
Lane tobaccos are fine, they all tend to taste flat to me compared to some of the more celebrated blends, but they do blend well and offer a pretty mild aromatic smoke.
Altadis has a ton of flavors and multiple brands I believe, but they also use propylene glycol to moisten their tobacco in those pouches, which bugs the sh*& out of me because it takes so long to dry to the moisture level I like to smoke it at.

Quality wise, I have to say they are on the lower end of the scale. When you smoke a Gawith, Pease, or Esoterica tobacco the quality of the tobacco speaks for itself as soon as you open the tin or bag. I did not find that to be the case with most of the Lane or Altadis offerings, but I don't smoke many aromatics and that seems to be their bread and butter.

Of course the Lane blends are far and away the best seller at my local store, and they have a ton of Stokkebye, MacBaren, and even some Sam Gawith tobaccos in their bulk jars, so take my opinion for what it's worth.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Colonel_Aureliano said:


> Are they decent brands?
> 
> Edit: Quality wise, of course.


They are "standard" aromatics. 1Q is the most popular tobacco there is, for some reason. Aromatics can use somewhat lower grade tobaccos and get away with it because the flavorings take over, so most aromatics aren't top of the line smokes. Not to say there aren't some fine aromatics out there, with excellent tobacco in them, but the run of the mill aromatics aren't among them. 1Q is part of a spectrum of OTC tobaccos, like Captain Black, Sail, and so forth, that smell nice for the crowd. Altadis makes a lot of these. I'd say the majority of the smokers on this forum smoke tobaccos that have room notes ranging from tolerable to ghastly, although some, like myself, do tend to smoke nicer smelling tobacco when around other people.

Certainly, 1Q isn't all bad, but I prefer it as a condiment. We have a few 1Q smokers, though! I like mixing it with Prince Albert once in a while.


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## Colonel_Aureliano (Aug 18, 2011)

Thanks for the help. I have more questions though.

To get a good English blend would I have to buy a tin online? I am living in Austin and all I can find are MJ related accessories with a crap stock of good tobaccos. Also, are glass pipes able to be used with tobacco? I don't like them (way too gaudy), but my stoner friend told me that he uses them for tobacco and I was wondering if that's normal. That concept seems sacrilegious.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Colonel_Aureliano said:


> Thanks for the help. I have more questions though.
> 
> To get a good English blend would I have to buy a tin online? I am living in Austin and all I can find are MJ related accessories with a crap stock of good tobaccos. Also, are glass pipes able to be used with tobacco? I don't like them (way too gaudy), but my stoner friend told me that he uses them for tobacco and I was wondering if that's normal. That concept seems sacrilegious.


Glass would be a pretty horrible pipe material, I would think. For one thing, you want the material to be porous, to absorb moisture from combustion, otherwise the pipe will smoke wet. Second, it would almost certainly smoke unbearably hot, at least holding it.

Good English blends are all over the place, except in local pipe stores. :lol: I'm sure there are suggestions on the way. Online is the best way to get what you want, smokingpipes.com for example. Also, many good English blends are sold in bulk, somewhat more cheaply than the tinned versions. When people find one they like, they are known to load up with a pound or more.

Get a cob! For a few bucks at your local drug store, you can have an eminently smokable pipe quick. You can get a better pipe at your leisure. For an array of excellent tobaccos to sample, to find what you like, sign up for the newbie trade once you have enough posts to PM. :tu


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

OK, with the discussion where it is...I want to mention my view and get your opinions on it...

I seem to like just about any blend, aroma, etc. of pipe tobacco. I have found myself leaning towards enjoying aromatics the most. Sure, I don't get much nicotine from these...I also smoke any range of cigars all the way to the blackest triple maduros...anyway, the "lack" of tobacco potency does not seem to bother me. I really love the aromas that come from different aromatics. In fact, w/in the last week, I have ordered about 25-30 different aromatic tobaccos, many are from Altidus (which I seem to really like the Sutliff PS from Altidus) and then a good mixture of other labels. Now, I don't seem to have the problem of "gurgling", too much moisture in the pipe, too wet, etc...I will let it "dry" anywhere from no time to an hour...just depends on how quick I want the smoke. I am happy with what I have here...BUT after weeks of reading the forums, I almost feel as if I may not fit in here (just in regards to what I smoke...as I know my personality shines like the sun! lol)...anyway...so, is the fact that some of these tobaccos that I lean torwards are "considered cheap", have too much other junk in them...or is it because others (you possibly) want to fit in? I hope that question makes sense...I am just curious what the overall census is of the other BOTL here feel...because from what I gather here on Puff...most everyone dislikes any aromatic.

Now, I do have a taste for high end tobaccos too...I just can't cellar that many. I work off of a limited budget...I don't think I am settleing...as I enjoy these...but, again...what is your (anyone) view on what I have said, asked, etc.?


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

Colonel_Aureliano said:


> To get a good English blend would I have to buy a tin online?


No, but the online selection is MUCH better, and the prices are usually better than buying at a local shop...



Colonel_Aureliano said:


> I am living in Austin and all I can find are MJ related accessories with a crap stock of good tobaccos.


Thats too bad that they mix those into the same shop, it makes it hard for someone woh wants to get into tobacco pipe smoking to figure things out...



Colonel_Aureliano said:


> Also, are glass pipes able to be used with tobacco? I don't like them (way too gaudy), but my stoner friend told me that he uses them for tobacco and I was wondering if that's normal. That concept seems sacrilegious.


Ummm, no. they probably have to be sold as tobacco pipes to be legal, but I wouldn't smoke tobacco in them...


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

quo155 said:


> OK, with the discussion where it is...I want to mention my view and get your opinions on it...
> 
> I seem to like just about any blend, aroma, etc. of pipe tobacco. I have found myself leaning towards enjoying aromatics the most. Sure, I don't get much nicotine from these...I also smoke any range of cigars all the way to the blackest triple maduros...anyway, the "lack" of tobacco potency does not seem to bother me. I really love the aromas that come from different aromatics. In fact, w/in the last week, I have ordered about 25-30 different aromatic tobaccos, many are from Altidus (which I seem to really like the Sutliff PS from Altidus) and then a good mixture of other labels. Now, I don't seem to have the problem of "gurgling", too much moisture in the pipe, too wet, etc...I will let it "dry" anywhere from no time to an hour...just depends on how quick I want the smoke. I am happy with what I have here...BUT after weeks of reading the forums, I almost feel as if I may not fit in here (just in regards to what I smoke...as I know my personality shines like the sun! lol)...anyway...so, is the fact that some of these tobaccos that I lean torwards are "considered cheap", have too much other junk in them...or is it because others (you possibly) want to fit in? I hope that question makes sense...I am just curious what the overall census is of the other BOTL here feel...because from what I gather here on Puff...most everyone dislikes any aromatic.
> 
> Now, I do have a taste for high end tobaccos too...I just can't cellar that many. I work off of a limited budget...I don't think I am settleing...as I enjoy these...but, again...what is your (anyone) view on what I have said, asked, etc.?


Tommy, dont worry about what others smoke, you smoke what you like... It's as simple as that... I smoke aromatics as well as english, virginia...etc, there is nothing wrong with smoking an aromatic, and dont let anyone tell you there is. I smoke "cheap" tobaccos as well and often find that they can be as enjoyable as some of the higher end smokes.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Nick S. said:


> Tommy, dont worry about what others smoke, you smoke what you like... It's as simple as that... I smoke aromatics as well as english, virginia...etc, there is nothing wrong with smoking an aromatic, and dont let anyone tell you there is. I smoke "cheap" tobaccos as well and often find that they can be as enjoyable as some of the higher end smokes.


+1 wholeheartedly!

I love my aromatics! There are where I started and black cav still makes my mouth water. And there are plenty of us here at Puff.

I found that my B&M aro's were too mild for the most part and have explored other options, like McClelland's Premium Aro's. But I have expanded my tastes as well with all tobaccos, due mostly to the words of experience I have read here.

I still enjoy PA, and CB once in while, even though I have plenty of "expensive" tobaccos now.

Smoke what you like and I think everyone around here will respect that.
Ask for an opinion and well... :kicknuts:

Just kidding! But hey, I'm on your side regarding aromatics and there are plenty of others too (or else 1Q wouldn't sell so well and SG tins and Stonehaven would be in stock! :lol.

Cheers Brother! :beerchug:


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

The Mad Professor said:


> +1 wholeheartedly!
> 
> I love my aromatics! There are where I started and black cav still makes my mouth water. And there are plenty of us here at Puff.
> 
> ...





Nick S. said:


> Tommy, dont worry about what others smoke, you smoke what you like... It's as simple as that... I smoke aromatics as well as english, virginia...etc, there is nothing wrong with smoking an aromatic, and dont let anyone tell you there is. I smoke "cheap" tobaccos as well and often find that they can be as enjoyable as some of the higher end smokes.


Thanks to the both of you...and when I ask a question (or even make a statement)...I realize that I may get my nuts kicked...and that's ok...that's why this is a Forum...because its _for_, _um_...all of us! :drum:

Anyway, i know as i get to try higher end stuff over the years, I will see the difference...but for now, I am very happy with SPS and some others...and there is a huge variety!


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

Hehe, the aro snobbery thing is so undefined it took me a while to get a handle on it too.

Most folks here aren't flavoring snobs. The vast majority of tobaccos have some flavoring involved, if it's the natural flavors that a blend with orientals and latakia possess, or the subtle flavors one finds on Stonehaven, OGS, Reiner's LGF, or the pronounced flavorings found on Stokkebye Twist or Uni Flake. I suppose I should mention the nuclear explosion of flavoring that is an Ennerdale or heavy Lakeland.

Many folks here are critical of sub par tobacco. Sadly, a lot of the lesser tobacco ends up as a stoved and flavored cavendish, or are heavily flavored with generic cherry and vanilla and sold in more inexensive packaging...meaning if you have ever bought some "Best Value" tobacco, you shortly realized it was neither. That's why the OTC tobaccos have a good following, most of the cult favorites are tobacco flavored, or lightly cased burleys that taste like tobacco. That's also why Boswell can make crazy flavors like Christmas Cookie and Berry Cobbler and have people posting rave reviews.

In summary, don't mistake poor quality tobacco snobbery as an aversion to Aro's, many guys here will profess a love for Stoney and Uni flake and then come across as somewhat condescending of aro's in general the next post.
After these months I interpret "Thank goodness I found this site and was able to step up from all that goopy crap aro to good stuff like Lux Twist and Erinmore" as "Thank goodness I found this site and was able to step up from over flavored crappy tobacco to better quality tobaccos and flavorings like I find on Lux Twist and Erinmore. It makes me feel better about filling my pipe with Nougat and still leaves me room to shudder at the Lakeland disciples /shrug


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

Xodar said:


> Hehe, the aro snobbery thing is so undefined it took me a while to get a handle on it too.
> 
> Most folks here aren't flavoring snobs. The vast majority of tobaccos have some flavoring involved, if it's the natural flavors that a blend with orientals and latakia possess, or the subtle flavors one finds on Stonehaven, OGS, Reiner's LGF, or the pronounced flavorings found on Stokkebye Twist or Uni Flake. I suppose I should mention the nuclear explosion of flavoring that is an Ennerdale or heavy Lakeland.
> 
> ...


Well put John...thank you...as that makes a lot of sense.

So, I take it...that even though I like it and have no issues...that Sutiff PS is "goopy crap" tobacco? I am not looking to be influenced here, as I really enjoy it...and nothing can hurt my feelings here...but would most consider it as junk...or sub par, etc.?


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

quo155 said:


> Well put John...thank you...as that makes a lot of sense.
> 
> So, I take it...that even though I like it and have no issues...that Sutiff PS is "goopy crap" tobacco? I am not looking to be influenced here, as I really enjoy it...and nothing can hurt my feelings here...but would most consider it as junk...or sub par, etc.?


Nah, I'm not even familiar with that tobacco specifically. I reserve goopy crap tobacco for aros I find personally goopy and, well...
I have had a couple of the Sutliff tins, the EMP clone and the one with a dog on it. Both were decent, I smoked them. But the EMP clone does kind of illustrate my point, when I had the chance to do a side by side comparison the Sutliff was inconsistently cut and had some largish chunks of stems in the can. The EMP was uniform, fragrant, and was clearly manufactured to a higher standard (which since the former was a clone of the latter isn't surprising). 
I seem to remember those coming in short tins too, they were not the full 50g most other manufacturer's have, so that reduces the savings scale a little too.
Regardless, if you liked smoking banana peels there'd be some guy on the internet wondering hjow the hell you could smoke chiquitas when Dole are clearly superior. Smoke what you want to smoke, and then make fun of everybody else smoking that crappy dole peel blend. I love Sugar Barrel :wink:/shrug


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Xodar said:


> Regardless, if you liked smoking banana peels there'd be some guy on the internet wondering hjow the hell you could smoke chiquitas when Dole are clearly superior. Smoke what you want to smoke, and then make fun of everybody else smoking that crappy dole peel blend. I love Sugar Barrel :wink:/shrug


:biglaugh: Hilarious!

...and :yuck: @ Sugar Barrel (j/k!)


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

When you hear the term goopy it usually means tobacco that has been treated with Propylene Glycol (PG) to keep the tobacco from drying out. If the tobacco is treated with too much of it, it will never dry out, and will consistently smoke wet. Most of the tobacco treated this way are of the aromatic variety which is one of the reasons why aromatics get such a bum rap. One of the biggest offenders of this is the super tobacco conglomerate Altadis. Altadis bulk tobaccos are usually what you see is in glass jars at the B&M shops. Sutliff is Altadis's high end brand and only sold in 1.5 and 8 oz tins, these blends are not saturated with PG like their bulk only offerings but I feel that the tobacco is treated with a moderate level of the solution.


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

Commander Quan said:


> When you hear the term goopy it usually means tobacco that has been treated with Propylene Glycol (PG) to keep the tobacco from drying out. If the tobacco is treated with too much of it, it will never dry out, and will consistently smoke wet. Most of the tobacco treated this way are of the aromatic variety which is one of the reasons why aromatics get such a bum rap. One of the biggest offenders of this is the super tobacco conglomerate Altadis. Altadis bulk tobaccos are usually what you see is in glass jars at the B&M shops. Sutliff is Altadis's high end brand and only sold in 1.5 and 8 oz tins, these blends are not saturated with PG like their bulk only offerings but I feel that the tobacco is treated with a moderate level of the solution.


Good information...thank you!

I just ordered a lot of bulk Altadis tobaccos this week...now, I am concerned! However, I will still smoke them to try...at least once...and than goodness I got many other brands, as well as many of the SPS that I enjoy.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

quo155 said:


> OK, with the discussion where it is...I want to mention my view and get your opinions on it...
> 
> I seem to like just about any blend, aroma, etc. of pipe tobacco. I have found myself leaning towards enjoying aromatics the most. Sure, I don't get much nicotine from these...I also smoke any range of cigars all the way to the blackest triple maduros...anyway, the "lack" of tobacco potency does not seem to bother me. I really love the aromas that come from different aromatics. In fact, w/in the last week, I have ordered about 25-30 different aromatic tobaccos, many are from Altidus (which I seem to really like the Sutliff PS from Altidus) and then a good mixture of other labels. Now, I don't seem to have the problem of "gurgling", too much moisture in the pipe, too wet, etc...I will let it "dry" anywhere from no time to an hour...just depends on how quick I want the smoke. I am happy with what I have here...BUT after weeks of reading the forums, I almost feel as if I may not fit in here (just in regards to what I smoke...as I know my personality shines like the sun! lol)...anyway...so, is the fact that some of these tobaccos that I lean torwards are "considered cheap", have too much other junk in them...or is it because others (you possibly) want to fit in? I hope that question makes sense...I am just curious what the overall census is of the other BOTL here feel...because from what I gather here on Puff...most everyone dislikes any aromatic.
> 
> Now, I do have a taste for high end tobaccos too...I just can't cellar that many. I work off of a limited budget...I don't think I am settleing...as I enjoy these...but, again...what is your (anyone) view on what I have said, asked, etc.?


I like Virginias, not aromatics. Just don't look too closely at my tobacco stash; you might see things like Butternut Burley, Moe's Confetti, Vanilla Flake, Black Ambrosia...

Seriously, if there's not room for you, who would there be room for? You smoke a pipe. So you don't like what everyone else does; I'm sure there are people who would be scandalized if I said what I thought about Penzance.


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

MarkC said:


> I like Virginias, not aromatics. Just don't look too closely at my tobacco stash; you might see things like Butternut Burley, Moe's Confetti, Vanilla Flake, Black Ambrosia...
> 
> Seriously, if there's not room for you, who would there be room for? You smoke a pipe. So you don't like what everyone else does; I'm sure there are people who would be scandalized if I said what I thought about Penzance.


Funny, thanks Mark! I will check out your cellar!


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## User Name (Feb 11, 2011)

There must be some people on here that like Aromatics. They sell so damn many 

But I'll smoke an ARO from time to time. Mostly McBaren Vanilla Flake or some Trout Stream (it reminds me of that kids cereal that was shaped like waffles, Waffle Crisp).

quo155- you might want to look into buying some boswell blends. I've heard good stuff about his aromatics.

http://www.boswellpipes.com/tobaccoblends.html


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

MarkC said:


> I'm sure there are people who would be scandalized if I said what I thought about Penzance.


And my thoughts on Stonehaven as well. The beauty of enjoying tobacco whatever it's form is that we all have differing palates. Is that not a great thing? :hippie::dude:


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Tashaz said:


> And my thoughts on Stonehaven...


(Let me guess! Like everything else antipodal, upside down and backwards? Water goes down the drain the wrong way. Rivers flow backwards. Funnel webs atop the lawn and redbacks under the dunny seat. If there is ever any kind of mail service from civilization to WA I'll send you some Paladin Black Cherry. I'm sure it'll make you wax poetic.)
How nice we can each find what we enjoy from a remarkably broad palette of tone and flavors. :tea: (With some exceptions.)


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

I approached pipes in a totally different way than I did cigars.
Luckily, I received a couple big bombs that set me on the way.
I didn't read any reviews.
Didn't look any of them up.
Made notes of the one I really liked.
Then asked a few brothers what their BEST blend was,,,tried them.
It wasn't until I got on to "my cellar", that I realized what categories
I liked. As my cellar shows, there are some Aro's in there,but they 
are in the minority. 
It was kind of buying the results of a blind taste test.....


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## lbiislander (Oct 15, 2010)

@Mark (and anyone else interested), I LOVE that Butternut Burley!


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> (Let me guess! Like everything else antipodal, upside down and backwards? Water goes down the drain the wrong way. Rivers flow backwards. Funnel webs atop the lawn and redbacks under the dunny seat. If there is ever any kind of mail service from civilization to WA I'll send you some Paladin Black Cherry. I'm sure it'll make you wax poetic.)
> How nice we can each find what we enjoy from a remarkably broad palette of tone and flavors. :tea: (With some exceptions.)


LMFAO Dan. There is no mail service here unfortunately, we still use a horse & cart but I'm sure the sheriff will let us know if we are wanted in town. :-D


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

lbiislander said:


> @Mark (and anyone else interested), I LOVE that Butternut Burley!


One of the best aros around, iyam. :tu I smoke more PA than anything else, only because I smoke two or three bowls a day of it and don't do that with anything else. It's my wake up smoke -- smoking a bowl now as a matter of fact. After that first bowl of PA, anything goes, from Royal Yacht to Louisiana Flake to Three Blind Moose, in no particular order. I might feel like a serious nicotine hit for some reason, so out comes the Happy Bogie or Bayou Morning Flake. Need some PA after that, to reset the equipment!

In an experimental mood, I'll put a little 5100 on the plate with a piece of Vanilla Creme Flake or 1Q, jam it in the cob and off we go! After lunch, something really good, like Reiner LGF, can hit the spot, then again the Sugar Barrel could tempt me. After golf, settling down with a beer to watch the tournament on TV, gotta have a big pipe with a substantial load, and Scotch Flake can fit the bill. Probably smoke some PA after that, just because it's so easy -- or maybe a Latakia?

Decisions, decisions, decisions. It's a huge responsibility, but somebody has to do the heavy lifting. Nobody's home right now to complain about the "bug spray" -- the Ennerdale beckons.


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

The best thing about all of this...is that you guys are naming some new things for me to try!


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

i have a quick question..

did the prices go up on peterson baccy on smokingpipes?


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

lbiislander said:


> @Mark (and anyone else interested), I LOVE that Butternut Burley!


Yeah, that one caught me by surprise. Excellent stuff!


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## Hinson (May 11, 2011)

My question: When smoking my pipe i usually get moisture coming out of the stem that has a very bitter taste. Is this common or am I doing something wrong? Thanks.

One more I just thought of. All my baccy is in ziplocks, though I know this isn't ideal, it seems to be working so far. My one tin of Irish Flake though dried out after having only like 2-3 months. I put it in a ziplock with a pillow hoping for the best, but is this common? Should I put tin baccy in a baggy upon getting it? This was my favorite smoke, but when I found it dried out I smoked a bowl and it was terrible compared to when i first got it.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Two to three months is a long time to expect those square and rectangular tins to hold moisture. Generally, if I opened a tin two weeks ago, I transfer it to a mason jar. I like to wait a couple of weeks, because I think a little tin drying/airing helps the flavor come out, plus makes it easier to prepare the bowls. If you commonly have tins around for two or three months, I would really recommend switching to mason jars.


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## Hinson (May 11, 2011)

MarkC said:


> Two to three months is a long time to expect those square and rectangular tins to hold moisture. Generally, if I opened a tin two weeks ago, I transfer it to a mason jar. I like to wait a couple of weeks, because I think a little tin drying/airing helps the flavor come out, plus makes it easier to prepare the bowls. If you commonly have tins around for two or three months, I would really recommend switching to mason jars.


Thanks Mark, yeah guess I screwed the pooch with this tin. Are jars the only route to go? I'm not a big pipe smoker and really don't want to sacrifice the space and money to buy a bunch of jars if I don't have too.


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Hinson said:


> My question: When smoking my pipe i usually get moisture coming out of the stem that has a very bitter taste. Is this common or am I doing something wrong? Thanks.
> 
> One more I just thought of. All my baccy is in ziplocks, though I know this isn't ideal, it seems to be working so far. My one tin of Irish Flake though dried out after having only like 2-3 months. I put it in a ziplock with a pillow hoping for the best, but is this common? Should I put tin baccy in a baggy upon getting it? This was my favorite smoke, but when I found it dried out I smoked a bowl and it was terrible compared to when i first got it.


These are great for short term, airtight storage:
POP Container Small Square - 0.3 Quart


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## Tinuz (Jul 7, 2011)

Just looking to get some feedback on a casual observation:

Do new pipes require more relighting? Every new pipe I ever had, required me to relight very, very often in the beginning. Tamping or not, I seem to be relighting every 5 minutes. 

Does that mean I suck, or just that a new pipes needs some nurturing before it is truly ready to go?


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

Tinuz said:


> Just looking to get some feedback on a casual observation:
> 
> Do new pipes require more relighting? Every new pipe I ever had, required me to relight very, very often in the beginning. Tamping or not, I seem to be relighting every 5 minutes.
> 
> Does that mean I suck, or just that a new pipes needs some nurturing before it is truly ready to go?


Lots of factors go into how often you have to relight: good/poor pipe engineering, good/poor packing, initial lighting, type of tobacco, etc. What type of pipe/pipes do you have? Spending enough $ on a quality pipe goes a long way to eliminating that variable.


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## Tinuz (Jul 7, 2011)

ChronoB said:


> Lots of factors go into how often you have to relight: good/poor pipe engineering, good/poor packing, initial lighting, type of tobacco, etc. What type of pipe/pipes do you have? Spending enough $ on a quality pipe goes a long way to eliminating that variable.


The pipe is a chacom, a rather small one (I seem to prefer smaller bowls). The quality of the pipe seems to be good, as I had the same issue with my savinelli and peterson.

My initial packing always seems to vary, I have been experimenting with the frank method, which works either very well, or very poorly. Regular 2/3 layer packing works decently, but I tend to get layers, causing the pipe to die all of a sudden.

The initial light seems to (usually) go well, however, when it is deeper in the bowl, I tend to have issues getting an even light.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Tinuz said:


> The initial light seems to (usually) go well, however, when it is deeper in the bowl, I tend to have issues getting an even light.


With a cigar, once it's lit and you continue to puff on it, the burn is uniform and the amount of smoke directly correlated to how hard you puff on it. Knock the ash off and things proceed apace. With a pipe, such continuity from beginning to end is elusive.

As the tobacco burns, the airflow and draw can change dramatically. One has to develop an awareness about the state of the ember from the way the pipe draws. Smoke volume versus amount of air drawn through the pipe gives us a direct measure. When the ember begins to run down the middle or down one side, the quicker we notice it, the quicker we can remedy it.

The two main ways to stabilize an ember are tamping and damping. To keep a bowl burning, one has to tamp the surface of the ash just enough to "restore" the draw. This tamp must be gentle indeed, so as not to snuff the ember or compact the tobacco beneath it. Putting two fingers over the bowl and taking long, even draws changes the airflow to the edges of the bowl, so that the ember tends to widen, rather than run down the center, become smaller and go out.

Smoking a pipe has phases, from the charring light to end, always changing. Obviously, it requires a certain amount of care. Some tobaccos, like PA, take very little tending, others a lot. Moisture level, packing technique and a thorough initial light play into the equation, but tamping and damping can do a lot to keep things on track in the face of adversity.

When things go wrong, a light tamp and off we go again! Don't sweat the small stuff.

Pipe smoking is to cigar smoking as golf is to bowling.


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## fwhittle (Aug 1, 2011)

Hinson said:


> My question: When smoking my pipe i usually get moisture coming out of the stem that has a very bitter taste. Is this common or am I doing something wrong? Thanks.


You need to run a pipe cleaner down the stem to remove moisture. f you hear or feel gurgling, it's time to run a cleaner.


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## Piper1 (Aug 16, 2011)

Just a tip for when the draw is restricted. When I first came across this problem I cleaned the pipe and for the heck of it I checked the draw without the mouth piece and it was still restricted. Here comes the stupid in me and almost embarrassed to admit it but I blew as hard as I could and out came a wad of spit soaked tobacco that struck me in the eye. Tip: if you are going to this make sure you turn the bowl away from you. Should be common sense but sometimes that eludes us.


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## quo155 (Aug 10, 2010)

Piper1 said:


> Just a tip for when the draw is restricted. When I first came across this problem I cleaned the pipe and for the heck of it I checked the draw without the mouth piece and it was still restricted. Here comes the stupid in me and almost embarrassed to admit it but I blew as hard as I could and out came a wad of spit soaked tobacco that struck me in the eye. Tip: if you are going to this make sure you turn the bowl away from you. Should be common sense but sometimes that eludes us.


Things happen..._but that is a funny one!_ :rotfl:


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Piper1 said:


> Just a tip for when the draw is restricted. When I first came across this problem I cleaned the pipe and for the heck of it I checked the draw without the mouth piece and it was still restricted. Here comes the stupid in me and almost embarrassed to admit it but I blew as hard as I could and out came a wad of spit soaked tobacco that struck me in the eye. Tip: if you are going to this make sure you turn the bowl away from you. Should be common sense but sometimes that eludes us.


LOL. I'm surprized I haven't done that yet. It made me think immediately of Christmas Story; "_You'll shoot your eye out, you'll shoot your eye out..._"

Thanks for the warning!


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Yeah, I'd stay away from cleaning guns...


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## JD11 (Aug 21, 2008)

MarkC said:


> Yeah, I'd stay away from cleaning guns...


:biglaugh:


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## Colonel_Aureliano (Aug 18, 2011)

I bought some Peter Stokkebye "London Export" thinking it was pipe tobacco. It's a cigarette tobacco blend. Can I smoke it in my pipe, or is it purely for rolling cigs?


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## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

Colonel_Aureliano said:


> I bought some Peter Stokkebye "London Export" thinking it was pipe tobacco. It's a cigarette tobacco blend. Can I smoke it in my pipe, or is it purely for rolling cigs?


You can smoke cigarette tobacco in a pipe. The question is will you enjoy it? Probably not unless you're just in it for the nicotine.


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## dgerwin11 (Jun 19, 2011)

Pugsley said:


> You can smoke cigarette tobacco in a pipe. The question is will you enjoy it? Probably not unless you're just in it for the nicotine.


Or if you just don't want to waste money.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Or just plain curious; I'd smoke it to see what it was like. I can't see Stokkebye selling junk. Just puff slowly or it'll burn real fast!


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

:bump: Bumping this as it has sunk 3 pages down and I was trying to find somthing, but it took me longer to find the thread...


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> :bump: Bumping this as it has sunk 3 pages down and I was trying to find somthing, but it took me longer to find the thread...


It used to be a sticky. We were up to a half page or so list of sticky topics, and the mods made the decision to condense things down (I assume that was their intent...I haven't asked. But it sure does clean things up, IMO). You can still quickly get to this thread by clicking in the sticky thread ""sticky worthy" topics."


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

gahdzila said:


> It used to be a sticky. We were up to a half page or so list of sticky topics, and the mods made the decision to condense things down (I assume that was their intent...I haven't asked. But it sure does clean things up, IMO). You can still quickly get to this thread by clicking in the sticky thread ""sticky worthy" topics."


True, but it is a great resource for new pipers, and how do they know to look for it? If it is "sticky worthy" then it should be sticky... doesn't make sense to me, but then again mods are like managers, always trying to fix things that aren't broke... It should be made a sticky again, IMO...


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## RedZeppelin (Jun 2, 2011)

Hi, all. I can't believe I read all 84 pages of this thread. It took me several days. Thanks to everyone for all of the great contributions. There is a lot of wisdom here.

I'm pretty sure this was addressed at some point in this thread but a lot of the info is running together. Do you leave a pipe-cleaner in your stem for a while after you smoke it? I've seen it recommended so it can soak up the excess moisture, but most seem to say running a cleaner through it a few times after you smoke it is enough.

Thanks.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

RedZeppelin said:


> Hi, all. I can't believe I read all 84 pages of this thread. It took me several days. Thanks to everyone for all of the great contributions. There is a lot of wisdom here.
> 
> I'm pretty sure this was addressed at some point in this thread but a lot of the info is running together. Do you leave a pipe-cleaner in your stem for a while after you smoke it? I've seen it recommended so it can soak up the excess moisture, but most seem to say running a cleaner through it a few times after you smoke it is enough.
> 
> Thanks.


There are 2 schools of thought on this one (let me see if I can get this right)<O</O
Some say to leave the pipe cleaner in to absorb any excess moisture in the pipe, others say that as long as the pipe is empty there should be enough air circulation to allow any moisture to dry... from what I have seen it is a personal preference thing... I personally don't leave a cleaner in, my dad always does though... however we both run 1 2 or however many cleaners we need through the pipe after each smoke, the one my dad leaves in is a new clean one. Neither of our pipes stink, so I say do what you are comfortable with.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Nick S. said:


> There are 2 schools of thought on this one (let me see if I can get this right)<o></o>


There are two schools of thought on reaming, on stem up/stem down when putting the pipe away, Frank versus three-stage, cobs versus briar, on Ennerdale...it's warfare on all fronts!


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## InsidiousTact (Dec 3, 2010)

I personally just make sure my pipe cleaners cone out dry then I put the pipe away without one in it, never had a problem. I do remember a thread though that proved that pipes that were left with a cleaner in them had their stems turn darker than pipes without a cleaner left in. Not sure what it really means, so do what you want...


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## jsnake (Oct 6, 2009)

Thanks for reviving this thread. I will be reading it over the rest of the week.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

ill make the next bump.



with a question

can over packing a mason jar cause problems for aging tobacco?


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> can over packing a mason jar cause problems for aging tobacco?


Mason jar question tag-along: Do you clean your mason jars after depleting the contents or just put more in?


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> ill make the next bump.
> 
> with a question
> 
> can over packing a mason jar cause problems for aging tobacco?


I don't know if it causes any problems, but according to Greg Pease it isn't optimal for aging. I like to leave some space, maybe an inch for a pint jar.

*Q: What about vacuum sealing?*
A: Vacuum sealing is great for vegetables and coffee, but is pointless for tobacco. Tobacco needs some air to be locked in with it , at least to begin with, in order for it to age. A perfectly vacuum sealed container will likely keep the tobacco "fresh," but it may not really age the way we expect it to. I'm more than a little suspicious about the heavy plastic "bags" used by most of these machines. They hold moisture in just fine, but they really don't prevent gas exchange, and I'm not sure they're truly able to stand the test of time. Tins are best. Jars are a close second. The special high barrier bags we used for a while for our 8oz packaging have several layers, each designed to be impenetrable to a different sort of molecule. I've conducted extended tests with this material, and am satisified that the tobacco will age nearly, if not as well as in the tins, at least for the short term. They are only slightly evacuted to facilitate packing and sealing. For best long-term aging, though, I still recommend tins.

From his website: G. L. Pease - Frequently Asked Questions


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

The Mad Professor said:


> Mason jar question tag-along: Do you clean your mason jars after depleting the contents or just put more in?


I wash mine out with hot water, then let them cool down before filling them. You could also let them run through the dishwasher. I do replace the lids though, that seal isn't very resealable, and replacements are dirt cheap.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

interesting for the tins, i am always afraid of tins loosing their seals. one just happened to me 2 months ago.


ill have to take some out then :0. or smoke it


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> interesting for the tins, i am always afraid of tins loosing their seals. one just happened to me 2 months ago.
> 
> ill have to take some out then :0. or smoke it


To each their own of course, but for myself I generally leave a sealed tin sealed while going right into jars with bulk. I've had a tin seal fail on me, but relative to the number of tins I have had it's a pretty small percentage (excepting manufacturing errors like we seemed to see with a dunhill run not long ago) and I have never had a peanut can style tin fail on me. As I understand the aging process, the first part of aging consists of a fermentation that consumes air. Once the air in the container has been consumed a second process continues that ages and mellows the tobacco. That would be consistent with seldom seeing much benefit from aging less than 6 months, as it probably takes some of that time to get to the second "aging" stage and actually start maturing.

Looked at like that, sealed tins have quite likely already gotten a couple months of head start on reaching the aging window, and opening a tin would expose the contents to air again. Once exposed to air the best case is another several months eating the air out of the jar to reach the second aging stage again, and I am not sure that the tobacco would even start that proces over once it had been aged a long time.

Of course, that's all the meandering logic of a guy who's been researching this stuff for less than a year, so take it for what it's worth, lol.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

The Mad Professor said:


> Mason jar question tag-along: Do you clean your mason jars after depleting the contents or just put more in?


I do. I once developed a nice little crop of mold on a couple of flakes of Peterson Irish Flake. In my short career as a pipe smoker, I've not seen any mold before or since. But I wash my jars well with soap and water between fillings as a precaution.


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## CALIFORNIA KID (Nov 21, 2010)

I've read a good chunk of the thread and did not see it but here is my question

Is there a cheaper alternative to Mason jars

$2 is not all that much, but it is when I need 20 of them

or is there somewhere I can get them for less


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

CALIFORNIA KID said:


> I've read a good chunk of the thread and did not see it but here is my question
> 
> Is there a cheaper alternative to Mason jars
> 
> ...


Sometimes you can find them at the dollar store. Also, Walmart has them, and I'm pretty sure they are laee than $2 each.


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## CALIFORNIA KID (Nov 21, 2010)

would these work?


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

CALIFORNIA KID said:


> would these work?


???


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## CALIFORNIA KID (Nov 21, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> ???


6 oz. Clear Round Wide-Mouth Jars S-12753 - Uline

FAIL on my part forgot the link


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Go for glass. Anything else holds the scent, I find.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

CALIFORNIA KID said:


> 6 oz. Clear Round Wide-Mouth Jars S-12753 - Uline
> 
> FAIL on my part forgot the link


Like Kyle, I recommend glass jars that have a tight seal for anything that you are going to have in long term storage. However, those would work better than plastic bags for short term. The only down side is that they may absorb some of the flavorings and then deposit them into the next tobacco.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

You can get a case of 8 OR 16 oz. jars at Walmart for $7.98. (Not that I'm pushing Walmart, I just happen to know they're there.) That's not much more than the plastic ones. Go with glass for sure.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Jars are on sale at my WalMart for 5 for 12!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> Jars are on sale at my WalMart for 5 for 12!


Of course, now that canning season is over. :tu Definitely the time of year to buy them, I would think.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> Jars are on sale at my WalMart for 5 for 12!


I should probably put a dollar sign in there so it makes sense haha. $5 for a 12 pack of jars. Not five jars for 12 bucks.



freestoke said:


> Of course, now that canning season is over. :tu Definitely the time of year to buy them, I would think.


Definitely. I have a drawer FULL of jars. Canning season is over and with the temperatures dropping, so is cigar season. Jar cheapness happens at the same time I buy the most tobacco. I love it!


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## David_ESM (May 11, 2011)

They were $7.50 per 12 at mine... Still bought some.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

I knew Walmart had them pretty cheap, just didnt know how much... Cal Kid, where did you see them for $2, thay seems really steep...


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## CALIFORNIA KID (Nov 21, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> I knew Walmart had them pretty cheap, just didnt know how much... Cal Kid, where did you see them for $2, thay seems really steep...


Amazon $25 for 12


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

CALIFORNIA KID said:


> Amazon $25 for 12


ah, check out walmart kmart or target, the price should be much better.


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## CALIFORNIA KID (Nov 21, 2010)

Im going to Walmart tomorrow.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

CALIFORNIA KID said:


> Im going to Walmart tomorrow.


Good deal. I know that they can be more expensive, but if you can afford it go for the wide mouth jars, they are easier to get your fingers into when taking the tobacco out.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Nick S. said:


> ...if you can afford it go for the wide mouth jars...


Sound advice, as always.


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

Nick S. said:


> Good deal. I know that they can be more expensive, but if you can afford it go for the wide mouth jars, they are easier to get your fingers into when taking the tobacco out.


You know, I have some of these, but have kind of phased them out of my cellar for several reasons:
1. They don't stack worth a damn. They are odd sized and wobble when stacked 2-3high in a box for cellaring, and so wide I can't really get them 2 across in the bozes I use.
2. Lids... I can get standard 8 oz replacement lids virtually everywhere. A lot of times you can't buy widemouth lids even in places they sell the jars.
3. Volume... I know 8 ounces is 8 ounces, but I seem to get more tobacco in the standard jelly jars (the one exception being a chunk of pirate kake I got that fit *perfectly* into a widemouth without crymbling). I actually got more than 5 oz. of PS LNF into a standard 8oz jelly jar last night, had to check that my scale was calibrated. Flakes and kakes just don't seem to go into the short jars that well sometimes.

You are absolutely right about the finger thing though, lol. Most of my widemouths have become "stock" jars where I keep bulk blends I smoke all the time.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

Xodar said:


> You know, I have some of these, but have kind of phased them out of my cellar for several reasons:
> 1. They don't stack worth a damn. They are odd sized and wobble when stacked 2-3high in a box for cellaring, and so wide I can't really get them 2 across in the bozes I use.
> 2. Lids... I can get standard 8 oz replacement lids virtually everywhere. A lot of times you can't buy widemouth lids even in places they sell the jars.
> 3. Volume... I know 8 ounces is 8 ounces, but I seem to get more tobacco in the standard jelly jars (the one exception being a chunk of pirate kake I got that fit *perfectly* into a widemouth without crymbling). I actually got more than 5 oz. of PS LNF into a standard 8oz jelly jar last night, had to check that my scale was calibrated. Flakes and kakes just don't seem to go into the short jars that well sometimes.
> ...


I agree those short squatty ones seem like the perfect size(and I do have a few), and they actually are for about a tin's worth of tobacco, but they don't stack worth a darn. However, my favorite ones are the wide mouth pint jars, they do stack perfectly and hold the perfect amount of tobacco as well. Unfortunately I haven't seen them at my Wal-Mart in a while, I hope they didn't discontinue them...


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## asmartbull (Aug 16, 2009)

I have found that the grocery stores in my area are cheaper that wally world.
10.00-12.00/case


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

CALIFORNIA KID said:


> ...Is there a cheaper alternative to Mason jars...


Yes.

2l soda bottles, before being blown up to size, are sold as 2-oz super-stout, airtight "test tubes" at $0.50/ea. The *Baby Soda Bottles (BSB's)* are reported excellent for storing under 2-oz of tobacco for long term or, especially, for carrying-around. Haven't used any myself but will be ordering 15 this week to see for myself.


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> Yes.
> 
> 2l soda bottles, before being blown up to size, are sold as 2-oz super-stout, airtight "test tubes" at $0.50/ea. The *Baby Soda Bottles (BSB's)* are reported excellent for storing under 2-oz of tobacco for long term or, especially, for carrying-around. Haven't used any myself but will be ordering 15 this week to see for myself.


Dammit Dan! You had to go and bring nipples into the conversation....or is that just me? :smile: LOL.

Nice idea though.op2:


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Tashaz said:


> Dammit Dan! You had to go and bring nipples into the conversation.... op2:


They are suggestive little nippers, aren't they? Preevert. 

(Jury is out on efficacy but the highly trusted colleague said these pocket-sized tubes are the bee's knees for long term storage of small quantities and for carrying tobacco around once you bust open a tin. I can't resist trying some. I puzzle on how you don't end up with a wad of tabak trapped inside one sooner or later but my esteemed colleague assures a pipe tool or a sharp downward snap of the wrist pulls (or propels) tobacco to the cap end. Marking tubes for content means sticky address labels I guess. I will order 15 and report back to the mothership. At $0.50 each they could offer them ribbed and in colors to widen the market.)


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Mister Moo said:


>


Very cool! I'd guess they'd hold less than 2oz of tobacco, though, especially loose cuts, since they only hold 2oz of liquid. Maybe an ounce and a half of flake, though. Certainly plenty for carrying around, though! :tu Count on you for really off-the-wall merchandise! :spy: Really might clean up the desk space with a big test tube rack!


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

Oh sure, I don't get enough funny looks ducking into a doorway to cram something that resembles beef jerky into a pipe. But wait til they see me loading my pipe out of a test tube. I can here the sirens now... :ballchain:


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Xodar said:


> Oh sure, I don't get enough funny looks ducking into a doorway to cram something that resembles beef jerky into a pipe. But wait til they see me loading my pipe out of a test tube. I can here the sirens now... :ballchain:


:rofl: Be sure to put a "Sandoz Pharmaceuticals" sticker on it. :hippie:


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Mister Moo said:


> At $0.50 each they could offer them ribbed and in colors to widen the market.


mg: ound:


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

Bought a crap ton of Kendal Kentucky, leaving me with a small question:

Do Kentuckys age well?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

The Mad Professor said:


> Bought a crap ton of Kendal Kentucky, leaving me with a small question:
> 
> Do Kentuckys age well?


Virginias change over time because of their sugar content. Burely's should stay about the same.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

freestoke said:


> Virginias change over time because of their sugar content. Burely's should stay about the same.


Well, according to online tin descriptions its "...for lovers of dark-fired Virginias". I assumed Kentucky was burley but I can't find much that says anything either way.

But either way it should stay the same or get better I gather. I didn't really buy it too age, but that shag cut is running out of my ears right now...
Thanks Jim!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Yeah, I ran into that Kentucky Burley/Virginia paradox too. I thought Kentucky was burley, but if it's Virginia, then so much the better for you, right? :tu


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

freestoke said:


> Yeah, I ran into that Kentucky Burley/Virginia paradox too. I thought Kentucky was burley, but if it's Virginia, then so much the better for you, right? :tu


Yeah, I've seen contradicting information on this... not sure which it is, my gut tells me it is burley though...


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## Hannibal (Apr 22, 2011)

Okay please don't flame me too bad as this has probably been asked a million times. 

How is the nic content in various pipe tobaccos? I sometimes enjoy that swift kick that a good strong cigar will give you. But my memory and lack of trying a ton of tobacco has me still wondering......


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

Hannibal said:


> Okay please don't flame me too bad as this has probably been asked a million times.
> 
> How is the nic content in various pipe tobaccos? I sometimes enjoy that swift kick that a good strong cigar will give you. But my memory and lack of trying a ton of tobacco has me still wondering......


High Nicotine:
Brown Bogie
Kendall Kentucky
(there are many others, but these are two of my favorites)

Low Nicotine:
Aromatics...

Generally burley tobaccos have a higher nicotine content than other tobaccos.

Does that answer your question?


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## Hannibal (Apr 22, 2011)

Nick S. said:


> High Nicotine:
> Brown Bogie
> Kendall Kentucky
> (there are many others, but these are two of my favorites)
> ...


Yes it did. Thanks!

Okay now are these higher nicotine tobaccos good for just smoking straight or is it more advised to use them as a mixer?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Hannibal said:


> Yes it did. Thanks!
> 
> Okay now are these higher nicotine tobaccos good for just smoking straight or is it more advised to use them as a mixer?


Depends. Some of them are very plain, like Dark Birdseye or Burley Flake #1, so mixing them with perique or a pinch of an aromatic can add some interest, however they provide a solid, no nonsense smoke with a real boost. Bayou Morning Flake already has perique, so it's a stout tobacco with some more complexity. Royal Yacht has figs and chocolate flavorings, although they're barely detectable in the smoke -- nonetheless, a complex, strong and delicious smoke that I would not mix with anything! Blends with Latakia range from fairly strong (Nightcap) to fairly mild (Balkan Sasieni), but often also contain other orientals or perique to add flavor accents.

The best place to check for power ratings is tobaccoreviews.com. It has a nice sort feature, too, so you could get a list of "strong" tobaccos if you were interested, along with the general drift of how good they are.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Is it weird to be able to open a tin with just your hands? I feel like I'm not the only one that can almost effortlessly do this but when a couple of the big guys I smoke pipe with tried to, they couldn't. It took them 10 minutes and a lot of groaning to get a tin of IF open and they had to call me to come over to open a tin of margate. Whats up with that?


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## Hannibal (Apr 22, 2011)

Another question....

What is a good RH to store your tobacco at? Well this is assuming that you are buying by the pound or whatever. I know I had issues with my tobacco getting too moist and when it did it burned hotter and not very good at all. I used a gallon mason jar with the flip top lid and had a, well, little tube that had a sponge in it that you would wet with DW and keep in there. So now with the advancements of hygrometers is there a set RH to try to attain?


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## stanwell30 (Nov 8, 2011)

If I buy a pound, I'll almost always split it up very quickly, into 1/4 pound cans...old McClelland tins are great for this. A fully packed can won't dry out quickly. Doing that, I rarely have reason to resort to additional hydration, even though I almost always have 2, and sometimes 3, different tobaccos I'm alternating between at a time. Oh, and this is in BONE-dry southern New Mexico.

Personally, I want my bowl very, very dry. If the tobacco's too wet, just go ahead and pack the bowl, then set the pipe aside. I've got some Gawith Navy Flake that's very moist; it might take 45 minutes to an hour to dry out. Conversely, Hearth & Home Magnum Opus is ready to light on packing; McClelland's Drama Reserve wants 10 minutes or so; and Christmas Cheer typically wants about 20-30 minutes.


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## stanwell30 (Nov 8, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> Is it weird to be able to open a tin with just your hands? I feel like I'm not the only one that can almost effortlessly do this but when a couple of the big guys I smoke pipe with tried to, they couldn't. It took them 10 minutes and a lot of groaning to get a tin of IF open and they had to call me to come over to open a tin of margate. Whats up with that?


Size doesn't necessarily correlate to grip strength. Vac-sealed tobacco cans are probably not all that different from most food jars, which are effectively vacuum sealed. Sometimes they're reasonably easy; other times the vacuum can be too tight, and one needs to break it a bit before it'll easily release.


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Hannibal said:


> Another question....
> 
> What is a good RH to store your tobacco at? Well this is assuming that you are buying by the pound or whatever. I know I had issues with my tobacco getting too moist and when it did it burned hotter and not very good at all. I used a gallon mason jar with the flip top lid and had a, well, little tube that had a sponge in it that you would wet with DW and keep in there. So now with the advancements of hygrometers is there a set RH to try to attain?


Was just coming to this thread to ask this. After purchasing pipe tobacco, what's the best way to store it? Mason jar or those pasta cannisters from Target and let sit at room temperature/ambient humidity? Or should I keep these jarred up in my wineador with cigars at approx. 65% rh?


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Slow Triathlete said:


> It's totally subjective. However, 70% humidity is waaaaay too high for pipe tobacco. This is usually sold around 20% humidity.


This actually answers my question, I think. I take it that keeping it sealed in an air tight container at ambient temp/rh will be just fine. If anything, drying it before smoking wouldn't hurt, either.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

To answer the questions on storing tobacco and what RH to store it at there is one simple answer. Get some mason jars put your tobacco in it and screw the lid on tight, that's it, no additional moisture needed. Seriously pipe tobacco is way less finicky that cigars. If you buy a pound of something break it into say 2 oz increments and seal them up and they will keep that way forever. Now some tobaccos age better than others, virginias age the best, and aromatics don't age at all and in my experience can actually lose their flavor over time (even when sealed).


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

karatekyle said:


> Is it weird to be able to open a tin with just your hands? I feel like I'm not the only one that can almost effortlessly do this but when a couple of the big guys I smoke pipe with tried to, they couldn't. It took them 10 minutes and a lot of groaning to get a tin of IF open and they had to call me to come over to open a tin of margate. Whats up with that?


One of these can open a vacuum sealed tin faster then anything.


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## stanwell30 (Nov 8, 2011)

Nick S. said:


> To answer the questions on storing tobacco and what RH to store it at there is one simple answer. Get some mason jars put your tobacco in it and screw the lid on tight, that's it, no additional moisture needed. Seriously pipe tobacco is way less finicky that cigars. If you buy a pound of something break it into say 2 oz increments and seal them up and they will keep that way forever. Now some tobaccos age better than others, virginias age the best, and aromatics don't age at all and in my experience can actually lose their flavor over time (even when sealed).


Well, not forever, but a good long time, as in usually months. AND, note, this is on the implicit assumption that you pack the storage container. If you leave significant air there, you greatly increase the risk of drying out the baccy, and, if it's kinda wet like my Navy Flake, of letting mold get going.

As for aging...Virginias tend to smooth out; English blends often marry more completely, and there's some anaerobic action that takes place in English blends that, in VERY old cans, gives a deep, rich, earthy flavor. Common aromatics may well use the kinds of flavorings they'd add to, say, French Vanilla creamer packets. Who knows what's gonna happen with these over time. Better grade aromatics will probably use real, natural flavorings, but these are often fairly volatile oils; they may start breaking down/evaporating even while sitting there, then once you start opening and drawing from the can...they'll go pretty fast.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

stanwell30 said:


> Well, not forever, but a good long time, as in usually months. AND, note, this is on the implicit assumption that you pack the storage container. If you leave significant air there, you greatly increase the risk of drying out the baccy, and, if it's kinda wet like my Navy Flake, of letting mold get going.


Honestly I disagree, I have had jars last for years, as have other members on here. If you tighten the lid on the jar it is sealed and there is no air exchange between the inside and the outside. Also, I never pack the container full, the tobaccos need some air for the anaerobic process to take place, I always leave about an inch at the top of the jar. There is no way the tobacco is going to dry out if you have tightened the lid on the jar, and if the jar is clean there is no more likelihood of mold growing than in a sealed tin.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Commander Quan said:


> One of these can open a vacuum sealed tin faster then anything.


Yeah, see, I've always been able to do it quite easily by wedging my fingertips in there. But I guess it must take practice. They were just amazed when I opened it with my hands, I didn't think it was a special talent. I had to ask you all to see if I really am as cool as they think I am :lol: :lol:


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

jswaykos said:


> Or should I keep these jarred up in my wineador with cigars at approx. 65% rh?


Nobody addressed this one Joe so I will. Never put your tobacco in with your cigars as even if there is the slightest air exchange on sealed containers it will be like storing acids with puros.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Sheesh, the poor guy logs in, asks how to get started and within a day, the rowdies around here are egging him on with shooters and telling him how to store pounds so he'll be able to smoke a little of it in a few short years, at which point, if he's lucky, he'll be able to enjoy the "good stuff". :lol:


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## Mante (Dec 25, 2009)

freestoke said:


> Sheesh, the poor guy logs in, asks how to get started and within a day, the rowdies around here are egging him on with shooters and telling him how to store pounds so he'll be able to smoke a little of it in a few short years, at which point, if he's lucky, he'll be able to enjoy the "good stuff". :lol:


All is well then. :r _Carry on gents. LOL_


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Tashaz said:


> All is well then. :r _Carry on gents. LOL_


LOL, it's all good. I do want to understand pipes more. Since Puff taught me almost everything I know about cigars, I expect the same with regards to pipes. Just picked up a pouch of Captain Black (white) at lunch. The pipe should arrive thurs/fri. By Friday night, I'll be on my way!


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

freestoke said:


> Sheesh, the poor guy logs in, asks how to get started and within a day, the rowdies around here are egging him on with shooters and telling him how to store pounds so he'll be able to smoke a little of it in a few short years, at which point, if he's lucky, he'll be able to enjoy the "good stuff". :lol:


Just helping him down the slope ound:


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

freestoke said:


> Sheesh, the poor guy logs in, asks how to get started and within a day, the rowdies around here are egging him on with shooters and telling him how to store pounds so he'll be able to smoke a little of it in a few short years, at which point, if he's lucky, he'll be able to enjoy the "good stuff". :lol:


What, thats not what we're supposed to do? I thought you've been smoking PA all this time because your GOOD stuff is aging...


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> What, thats not what we're supposed to do? I thought you've been smoking PA all this time because your GOOD stuff is aging...


Are you implying that PA is NOT good stuff? :fencing:


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

freestoke said:


> Are you implying that PA is NOT good stuff? :fencing:


I kid, of course. I've actually have had a hankering for it lately. That or CH.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> I kid, of course. I've actually have had a hankering for it lately. That or CH.


I was just screwin' around, Kyle. :lol: Actually, I consider it "OK" stuff. Pretty decent. The "good stuff" to me is something like FVF or Reiner LGF, Royal Yacht...there are lots f things ahead of PA, but then there are a lot of things "ahead" of hamburgers on my menu, but I really like hamburgers! PA is a no-sweat smoke. Great stuff when you don't want to think about it much, just puff along.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

freestoke said:


> I was just screwin' around, Kyle. :lol: Actually, I consider it "OK" stuff. Pretty decent. The "good stuff" to me is something like FVF or Reiner LGF, Royal Yacht...there are lots f things ahead of PA, but then there are a lot of things "ahead" of hamburgers on my menu. PA is a no-sweat smoke. Great stuff when you don't want to think about it much, just puff along.


You're always screwing around, Jim :thumb:

I smoked through a couple pouches after I got sick of CB when I first started and I still think PA goes with coffee better than nearly any other tabak. IF is my only close second.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> You're always screwing around, Jim :thumb:
> 
> I smoked through a couple pouches after I got sick of CB when I first started and I still think PA goes with coffee better than nearly any other tabak. IF is my only close second.


I find that Brown Bogie goes with coffee quite nicely, and if you like cream and sugar in your coffee I imagine Brainy Bogie would be the perfect accompaniment.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> You're always screwing around, Jim :thumb:
> 
> I smoked through a couple pouches after I got sick of CB when I first started and I still think PA goes with coffee better than nearly any other tabak. IF is my only close second.


I'm warming up to the burley blends (codger burleys) especially because they pair so well with my morning coffee. I ordered some Sugar Barrel from JRs the other day - should be here soon. I can't wait to try it.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

DanR said:


> I'm warming up to the burley blends (codger burleys) especially because they pair so well with my morning coffee. I ordered some Sugar Barrel from JRs the other day - should be here soon. I can't wait to try it.


I'm a Sir Walter man, myself. It was what Lanceford Larson smoked, his grandson carries on that tradition.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> I'm a Sir Walter man, myself. It was what Lanceford Larson smoked, his grandson carries on that tradition.


That is going to be one of the next ones I review on my drug store review series.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> That is going to be one of the next ones I review on my drug store review series.


The cut is spectacular.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> The cut is spectacular.


I have never had it before, what kind of cut is it?


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> It was what Lanceford Larson smoked...


Mr. Larson was a true gentleman, I'm sure!

Nick - if you want some sugar barrel to review, I'll put together a "Roman Tobak bomblet" for you... I know it's no longer considered an OTC, but I think it once was.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> That is going to be one of the next ones I review on my drug store review series.


Love your reviews, Nick. Looking forward to your thoughts on SWR, as I haven't tried it yet. I really want to try some Sugar Barrel, but just haven't gotten around to ordering any yet.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> Love your reviews, Nick. Looking forward to your thoughts on SWR, as I haven't tried it yet. I really want to try some Sugar Barrel, but just haven't gotten around to ordering any yet.


I'll send you a bomblet too Clifford, just PM me your address.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

jswaykos said:


> Was just coming to this thread to ask this. After purchasing pipe tobacco, what's the best way to store it? Mason jar or those pasta cannisters from Target and let sit at room temperature/ambient humidity? Or should I keep these jarred up in my wineador with cigars at approx. 65% rh?


The "correct" way to store pipe tobacco is in glass mason jars. A half pint jar will hold approximately 2 ounces of rubbed out (loose cut, like the Captain Black you bought) tobacco.

I'm going to go against the common wisdom a bit: in your bare infancy of pipe smoking, your single little pouch of Captain Black will keep just fine for a couple of weeks or more in a ziplock bag. When (not if, you're already headed down the slope LOL) you start buying more stuff, you'll want to invest in mason jars.

As mentioned - just like you wouldn't store flavored cigars in your humidor with your other cigars, don't store pipe tobacco with your cigars.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

DanR said:


> Mr. Larson was a true gentleman, I'm sure!


Oh he's a character. And he's still with us, being a character; just doing it without a pipe. That was the reason for my past tense.

Everytime I hear Churchill's quote, "I am prepared to meet my Maker. Whether my Maker is prepared for the great ordeal of meeting me is another matter," I think of Grandpa :lol:


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

DanR said:


> I'll send you a bomblet too Clifford, just PM me your address.


Thanks, brother!!!!


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> The "correct" way to store pipe tobacco is in glass mason jars. A half pint jar will hold approximately 2 ounces of rubbed out (loose cut, like the Captain Black you bought) tobacco.
> 
> I'm going to go against the common wisdom a bit: in your bare infancy of pipe smoking, your single little pouch of Captain Black will keep just fine for a couple of weeks or more in a ziplock bag. When (not if, you're already headed down the slope LOL) you start buying more stuff, you'll want to invest in mason jars.
> 
> As mentioned - just like you wouldn't store flavored cigars in your humidor with your other cigars, don't store pipe tobacco with your cigars.


I'm not one to tread lightly in to new pursuits... I'll be picking up some jars by the weekend, for sure. Even if it's 'just' Captain Black, it'll still look better in a jar! Is there a reason why glass would be better than, say, those acrylic cylinders? As with cigars, many different storage devices work, some just differently than others (i.e. tupperware/rubbermaid needing to be aired out because they're totally airtight, etc.)

And I may look for some more pipe tobacco, too. Pipe arrives Friday, I'll definitely be attempting my first bowl.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

DanR said:


> Mr. Larson was a true gentleman, I'm sure!
> 
> Nick - if you want some sugar barrel to review, I'll put together a "Roman Tobak bomblet" for you... I know it's no longer considered an OTC, but I think it once was.


That would be really kind of you, so I don't have to buy a whole tub of it... Oh course I may have to return fire...


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

gahdzila said:


> The "correct" way to store pipe tobacco is in glass mason jars. A half pint jar will hold approximately 2 ounces of rubbed out (loose cut, like the Captain Black you bought) tobacco.
> 
> *I'm going to go against the common wisdom a bit: in your bare infancy of pipe smoking, your single little pouch of Captain Black will keep just fine for a couple of weeks or more in a ziplock bag. When (not if, you're already headed down the slope LOL) you start buying more stuff, you'll want to invest in mason jars.*
> 
> As mentioned - just like you wouldn't store flavored cigars in your humidor with your other cigars, don't store pipe tobacco with your cigars.


True true, I don't always jar up samples of stuff I get if I plan on smoking it soon.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

jswaykos said:


> I'm not one to tread lightly in to new pursuits... I'll be picking up some jars by the weekend, for sure. Even if it's 'just' Captain Black, it'll still look better in a jar! Is there a reason why glass would be better than, say, those acrylic cylinders? As with cigars, many different storage devices work, some just differently than others (i.e. tupperware/rubbermaid needing to be aired out because they're totally airtight, etc.)
> 
> And I may look for some more pipe tobacco, too. Pipe arrives Friday, I'll definitely be attempting my first bowl.


A rule of thumb to remember is if you can smell the tobacco outside the container than it isn't airtight. Glass is the best, as the plastic will absorb the flavor of whatever tobacco has been stored in it previously. I think with the Tupperware stuff the flavors will eventually leach through them and I would avoid them for long term storage. I think mason jars are the cheapest option anyway...


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Nick hit the nail on the head (btw, here's a virtual *bump* for you, Nick, as it won't let me bump you because I need to spread some more!).

As a relative noob to pipes myself, I can't say with certainty, so take this with a grain of salt, Joe. Plastic tupperwares and such are great for cigars. And if you've got one that's absolutely airtight, it would probably be fine for storing pipe baccy. But I'd be concerned that the plastic would absorb some of the smells and you wouldn't be able to reuse it for a different pipe tobacco at some point in the future. Not an issue with glass jars.


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

What Im finding, I think, is that pipe tobacco needs to be treated as if it was an infused cigar. In glass and always separate from other flavors because they WILL marry. Glass mason jars it is!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

gahdzila said:


> But I'd be concerned that the plastic would absorb some of the smells and you wouldn't be able to reuse it for a different pipe tobacco at some point in the future. Not an issue with glass jars.


Precisely so, but I think everyone is overestimating the air tightness of tupperware, too. Mason jars do not leak -- at all. Tupperware that holds a vacuum seal for years at a time is something I'm not familiar with, personally.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

freestoke said:


> Precisely so, but I think everyone is overestimating the air tightness of tupperware, too. Mason jars do not leak -- at all. Tupperware that holds a vacuum seal for years at a time is something I'm not familiar with, personally.


Yeah, I think short term tupperware is fine, but I would think it would lose its seal after awhile, plus there is the plastic/permeability issue...



jswaykos said:


> What Im finding, I think, is that pipe tobacco needs to be treated as if it was an infused cigar. In glass and always separate from other flavors because they WILL marry. Glass mason jars it is!


Yup, I think that is best!


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

So 100% air tight is good with pipe tobacco? It's not with cigars. MOSTLY air tight is ideal, but you do need some exchange - hence, wooden humidors. Wineadors and acrylic jars do need to be opene with some frequency if used for storage.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

jswaykos said:


> So 100% air tight is good with pipe tobacco? It's not with cigars. MOSTLY air tight is ideal, but you do need some exchange - hence, wooden humidors. Wineadors and acrylic jars do need to be opene with some frequency if used for storage.


100% air tight is what you want, if it isn't 100% air tight your tobacco will not age very well, if at all.

Here is a good FAQ article by master blender Greg Pease: G. L. Pease - Frequently Asked Questions

it has some good information on storing, aging, smoking...etc...


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## Sherlocke (Nov 7, 2011)

Do any of you experienced pipe smokers use those glass jars with a rubber seal and a wire lever lock? I'm sure there's a name for them, but I have no idea. 

They seem pretty air tight, at least the Fido brand I've found at TJ Maxx and Marshall's do. They're thick glass and are easy to open and close, and seem to really make a tight seal. They're made in Italy, come in many sizes, and are dirt cheap.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

I'm certainly not that experienced, but I'll chime in since I'm up later being on the west coast. 

I've heard them referred to as "bail-top" jars. I use them, especially to keep my samples in ziplocks from drying out in the bag. I have one for my fav bulk blend (Kentucky Kendal), one for aro ziplocks, and two for all the rest of my ziplock samples. I don't plan on aging in the bail tops, only in mason jars, but I think GL Pease said they will age for several years without problem. :dunno:

Buying tip - I get my bail-top jars at Goodwill, garage sales, or the (good) dollar store, and I refuse to spend any more than $2 each. But do check the rubber seals! :tu


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## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

I think Pease talks about it in the article linked earlier, but while things like Tupperware may be airtight, they are still just plastic.
Plastic bags can be airtight as well.
But when storing tobacco for the long term, you need to worry about more than just air. There are smaller particles that will permeate plastics. 
Like Pease says (paraphrasing): If you can smell the tobacco through the container, then smells from the outside can get in.
Glass doesn't allow anything in or out. Which is why most people recommend glass jars with good seals.

Also, in regards to whether certain glass containers are airtight: With most Ball-type jars, the metal lid will actually depress after a few weeks/months, as the tobacco eats up some of the air inside and creates a vacuum. 
If you can't press on the lid and get it to 'pop' up and down, you know it's sealed.


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Thanks for the breakdown - I will definitely stick with glass. Interesting how different forms of tobacco need to be handled so differently...


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

The Mad Professor said:


> I'm certainly not that experienced, but I'll chime in since I'm up later being on the west coast.
> 
> I've heard them referred to as "bail-top" jars...
> Buying tip - I get my bail-top jars at Goodwill, garage sales, or the (good) dollar store, and I refuse to spend any more than $2 each. But do check the rubber seals! :tu


You can get new rubber gaskets for them at the grocery store. They're "Swing top *bale* wire jars". They will create a vacuum seal, too, but it's not as reliable as the metal lid, since you have to get that rubber gasket on there just so. I have a couple, but don't really like them...something of a hassle if you ask me. When they go empty, I'll be retiring them.


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## Hannibal (Apr 22, 2011)

Hmmmm note to self. Need to start looking for mason jars old school style....


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Hannibal said:


> Hmmmm note to self. Need to start looking for mason jars old school style....


I'm gonna head to Target in a bit to see if they have any. If they don't, then maybe a craft store? Marshalls?


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## Hannibal (Apr 22, 2011)

Any grocery store should have them in the canning section....


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

All of the grocery stores here have them, as well as Walmart. In grocery stores, they're usually near the ziplock bags and such. In Walmart, they're always near the Tupperware and other kitchen stuff. I've also found them at the little mom-and-pop hardware stores. 

Home canning might be more popular here in the deep south than in other parts of the country, though. My mom still makes homemade sweet pickles.


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> All of the grocery stores here have them, as well as Walmart. In grocery stores, they're usually near the ziplock bags and such. In Walmart, they're always near the Tupperware and other kitchen stuff. I've also found them at the little mom-and-pop hardware stores.
> 
> Home canning might be more popular here in the deep south than in other parts of the country, though. My mom still makes homemade sweet pickles.


I'm sure they've got them out here. I always seem all sorts of other cannisters that I've eye-balled for cigar storage, I've just never had a reason to look for mason jars before.


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## stanwell30 (Nov 8, 2011)

CaptainEnormous said:


> Like Pease says (paraphrasing): If you can smell the tobacco through the container, then smells from the outside can get in.
> Glass doesn't allow anything in or out. Which is why most people recommend glass jars with good seals.


Beyond that: if you can smell it, that means aromatic compounds are getting OUT, and you're losing flavor over time.


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## The Mad Professor (Jul 13, 2011)

jswaykos said:


> I'm sure they've got them out here.


Up here in Long Beach I have to go to Wal-Mart to find them, and last week I went for some more and there were only lids, no jars! I wasn't happy, and had to get more *bale* jars instead (thanks Jim! :tu). I hope they get more soon... I got some FVF that needs jarring quick - the baby can come any day now! :lol:


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Just got back from Target, bought one of these:










It's fairly large, so I won't get this size for EVERY tobacco I pick up, but it should be fine for the CBs and cheapy stuff. They had some 4 ounce (I think?) jars, but the middle of the lid would separate from the surrounding piece upon opening. I'd rather not deal with that - it's supposed to be a RELAXING hobby, I don't need the frustration every time I open a jar!


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

jswaykos said:


> It's fairly large, so I won't get this size for EVERY tobacco I pick up, but it should be fine for the CBs and cheapy stuff. They had some 4 ounce (I think?) jars, but the middle of the lid would separate from the surrounding piece upon opening. I'd rather not deal with that - it's supposed to be a RELAXING hobby, I don't need the frustration every time I open a jar!


You'll find almost every jar will have that 2 piece lid. Its so you can replace the inner piece when the rubber seal goes bad. They aren't too frustrating!


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> You'll find almost every jar will have that 2 piece lid. Its so you can replace the inner piece when the rubber seal goes bad. They aren't too frustrating!


Ha! I feel stupid. I was amazed that ALL FOUR jars in the package were broken! O'well. They seemed a bit small, anyway. Then again, I have yet to purchase anything more than a drug store pouch of tobacco. I just figured the same 'rule' with cigars would apply here - get a bigger jar than you think is necessary. That certainly holds true with humidors, anyway.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

jswaykos said:


> Ha! I feel stupid. I was amazed that ALL FOUR jars in the package were broken! O'well. They seemed a bit small, anyway. Then again, I have yet to purchase anything more than a drug store pouch of tobacco. I just figured the same 'rule' with cigars would apply here - get a bigger jar than you think is necessary. That certainly holds true with humidors, anyway.


Don't sweat it brother, it took me 2 years of smoking before I realized pipe cleaners were called pipe cleaners because they clean tobacco pipes, not drain pipes. Thought it was a happy coincidence :thumb:

Use the big jar for pouches, baggies, or samples you don't mind smelling like each other. Otherwise, use separate jars for each tobak. Hope that helps!


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> Don't sweat it brother, it took me 2 years of smoking before I realized pipe cleaners were called pipe cleaners because they clean tobacco pipes, not drain pipes. Thought it was a happy coincidence :thumb:
> 
> Use the big jar for pouches, baggies, or samples you don't mind smelling like each other. Otherwise, use separate jars for each tobak. Hope that helps!


So would you recommend I keep the CB in the pouch, in the jar? Just in case I pick up something else?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

jswaykos said:


> So would you recommend I keep the CB in the pouch, in the jar? Just in case I pick up something else?


Yeah, I suppose I would. CB smells similar to many other aromatics. Just don't put any non aros in there with it.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

jswaykos said:


> So would you recommend I keep the CB in the pouch, in the jar? Just in case I pick up something else?


I would keep the CB in the pouch, and keep the pouch in the jar you bought, that way you can use it for other aromatics. It isn't the best but it can work in a pinch if you have a bunch of small samples of similar tobacco.

I wouldn't use the jar you bought for any long term storage, I can't say for sure but without actually being able to look at the lid but I would guess that the seal isn't as good as mason jars. There is nothing wrong for using it for tobacco you are actively using though. The mason jars are the ones with the two piece lids, and they really aren't a big deal to work with. I would say, instead of getting bigger jars bet more jars than you think you need. My two favorites are the pint wide mouth and the half pint standard mouth, and I but them both by the case (and even that never seems to be enough). The half pint wide mouth are good, but they don't stack worth a darn... I have 8 of them and I won't be buying anymore.


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> I would keep the CB in the pouch, and keep the pouch in the jar you bought, that way you can use it for other aromatics. It isn't the best but it can work in a pinch if you have a bunch of small samples of similar tobacco.
> 
> I wouldn't use the jar you bought for any long term storage, I can't say for sure but without actually being able to look at the lid but I would guess that the seal isn't as good as mason jars. There is nothing wrong for using it for tobacco you are actively using though. The mason jars are the ones with the two piece lids, and they really aren't a big deal to work with. I would say, instead of getting bigger jars bet more jars than you think you need. My two favorites are the pint wide mouth and the half pint standard mouth, and I but them both by the case (and even that never seems to be enough). The half pint wide mouth are good, but they don't stack worth a darn... I have 8 of them and I won't be buying anymore.


Who'd a thought - the "broken" jars are the good jars. O'well. I'll just keep it as an 'active' jar like you say - for the regularly smoked stuff.


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> I would keep the CB in the pouch, and keep the pouch in the jar you bought, that way you can use it for other aromatics. It isn't the best but it can work in a pinch if you have a bunch of small samples of similar tobacco.
> 
> I wouldn't use the jar you bought for any long term storage, I can't say for sure but without actually being able to look at the lid but I would guess that the seal isn't as good as mason jars. There is nothing wrong for using it for tobacco you are actively using though. The mason jars are the ones with the two piece lids, and they really aren't a big deal to work with. I would say, instead of getting bigger jars bet more jars than you think you need. My two favorites are the pint wide mouth and the half pint standard mouth, and I but them both by the case (and even that never seems to be enough). The half pint wide mouth are good, but they don't stack worth a darn... I have 8 of them and I won't be buying anymore.












This is what I use for all the "daily" quick-access tobaccos I have. Otherwise, bulk stuff goes in bigger jars. I've just started splitting all those big jars into jars this size, though. More efficient for aging tobaccos I want to sample on the way, I've decided.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

karatekyle said:


> This is what I use for all the "daily" quick-access tobaccos I have. Otherwise, bulk stuff goes in bigger jars. I've just started splitting all those big jars into jars this size, though. More efficient for aging tobaccos I want to sample on the way, I've decided.


Yeah, those are the half pint standard mouth, probably the most cost effective and readily available size (aside from the quart, which are pretty useless). Good choice.


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## Hannibal (Apr 22, 2011)

So let me ask this while we are on the subject of storage, where do you guys store your jars at? I was envisioning a rack type of cabinet that would house each jar with the lid facing the front and placing the type of tobacco on the lid.....

Thinking ahead of the game maybe?!?!?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Hannibal said:


> So let me ask this while we are on the subject of storage, where do you guys store your jars at? I was envisioning a rack type of cabinet that would house each jar with the lid facing the front and placing the type of tobacco on the lid.....
> 
> Thinking ahead of the game maybe?!?!?


That actually sounds awesome. A huge pegboard with holes the size of ball jars would be fantastic. Make it wall-sized in a man-cave or office? I might do that when I move into a house, that'd be sweet. Until then, I stack them in my desk drawers.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

Hannibal said:


> So let me ask this while we are on the subject of storage, where do you guys store your jars at? I was envisioning a rack type of cabinet that would house each jar with the lid facing the front and placing the type of tobacco on the lid.....
> 
> Thinking ahead of the game maybe?!?!?


Mine are just stacked in a cabinet... always trying to find a better way to store/access them...


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## Hannibal (Apr 22, 2011)

Nick S. said:


> Mine are just stacked in a cabinet... always trying to find a better way to store/access them...


See that's the thing I was thinking, with all my cigars I sometimes forget what I really have. I'll be going through the wineador and find something I've buried and be really surprised. Not that it's a bad thing but with as many types of tobaccos as cigars I'm really going to be screwed if I start collecting and enjoying numerous types....


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

Hannibal said:


> See that's the thing I was thinking, with all my cigars I sometimes forget what I really have. I'll be going through the wineador and find something I've buried and be really surprised. Not that it's a bad thing but with as many types of tobaccos as cigars I'm really going to be screwed if I start collecting and enjoying numerous types....


I use Tobacco Cellar to track your pipe tobacco, cellaring, aging and smoking to keep track of what I have that I don't forget I have something...


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

This is an older picture of my cabinet - it's way stuffed to the brim with cellared tins now! Anyway, this is how I keep mine organized.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

DanR said:


> This is an older picture of my cabinet - it's way stuffed to the brim with cellared tins now! Anyway, this is how I keep mine organized.


I label my jars the same way. Is the same thing in each row?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

DanR said:


> This is an older picture of my cabinet - it's way stuffed to the brim with cellared tins now!


I'm wondering who will be the first to rent one of those little storage units for their tobacco that saner people fill with old furniture, clothing, sports equipment and toys.


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

So I was back at Target for something unrelated and picked up some of the pint jars that I thought were 'broken' the other day, with the removable centers of the lid:










Should these work ok? The detachable center seems counter intuitive but what do I know...


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

jswaykos said:


> So I was back at Target for something unrelated and picked up some of the pint jars that I thought were 'broken' the other day, with the removable centers of the lid:
> 
> Should these work ok? The detachable center seems counter intuitive but what do I know...


That'll work perfectly. When you tighten them up, they seal your tobacco up as airtight as the tin/pouch you bought it in!


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

Yup, that is what you want (though I haven't seen those exact ones before). The lids aren't really a big deal, I think if they were a one piece design they would be a lot harder to remove as after time a vacuum is eventually created. With the two piece, you remove the ring and lift the lid... easy peasy... and when the rubber gasket wears out all you have to replace is the top, and they are cheap.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> I label my jars the same way. Is the same thing in each row?


No, most of them are individuals. I do have some blends that have multiple jars - stuff I bought in bulk, like FVF for instance.

It's hard to tell, but the jars are three layers deep. Just take a gander at my open tobaccoceller and you'll see what I've got there. Most of my mason jars I list as "OPEN".


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

DanR said:


> It's hard to tell, but the jars are three layers deep. Just take a gander at my open tobaccoceller and you'll see what I've got there.





> Cellar Summary - 69 open containers, 87 cellared containers


Lookin' pretty slim there Dan. I don't know how you can handle having so few choices ound:


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

The lids are 2 pieces because when you use them for canning you lightly tighten the ring around the lid so air can be pushed out when the jars are heated, and the lid gets pushed in by the negative pressure when they are cooled.


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Commander Quan said:


> The lids are 2 pieces because when you use them for canning you lightly tighten the ring around the lid so air can be pushed out when the jars are heated, and the lid gets pushed in by the negative pressure when they are cooled.


Interesting!! I really did just think they were all broken, hence the reason they were so cheap!


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

karatekyle said:


> Lookin' pretty slim there Dan. I don't know how you can handle having so few choices ound:


That's bombing material...

Actually, I love the variety. The hardest part is looking at those unopened tins and resisting the urge to open something new that I've never tried before. Especially when you guys start talking about how good they are.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

DanR said:


> No, most of them are individuals. I do have some blends that have multiple jars - stuff I bought in bulk, like FVF for instance.
> 
> It's hard to tell, but the jars are three layers deep. Just take a gander at my open tobaccoceller and you'll see what I've got there. Most of my mason jars I list as "OPEN".


Interesting, any particular reason you list your jars as open? Do you keep your cellared in a different location or all in the same cabinet?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

DanR said:


> That's bombing material...
> 
> Actually, I love the variety. The hardest part is looking at those unopened tins and resisting the urge to open something new that I've never tried before. Especially when you guys start talking about how good they are.


Oh gosh no! Got 2 bombs in the mail already today ainkiller:


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Nick S. said:


> Interesting, any particular reason you list your jars as open? Do you keep your cellared in a different location or all in the same cabinet?


Well, because I open them regularly and smoke the tobacco. My cellared list consists of all the unopened tins. I do have a few mason jars of FVF, Penzance, and 1792 that i consider cellared - sitting in the top back area of the cabinet. The Penzance is freckled with sugar crystals like you wouldn't believe!!!

Oh, and remember that the picture is OLD. I've stuff a LOT more in that cabinet since then...


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

DanR said:


> Well, because I open them regularly and smoke the tobacco. My cellared list consists of all the unopened tins. I do have a few mason jars of FVF, Penzance, and 1792 that i consider cellared - sitting in the top back area of the cabinet. The Penzance is freckled with sugar crystals like you wouldn't believe!!!
> 
> Oh, and remember that the picture is OLD. I've stuff a LOT more in that cabinet since then...


I see, so you don't necessary store things long term in jars you just keep your open stuff in them.

I have some penzance that is just starting to get crystals on it... It is going to be wonderful...


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## Hannibal (Apr 22, 2011)

So what's everyone's thoughts on meers???? 

I've been thinking about getting a couple and was just wondering what the consensus was. I think the reason I would be looking this way is because of the ability to smoke more than one bowl through it a day. That way I'm not trying to carry three or four pipes around at all time..... Thoughts??


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

Hannibal said:


> So what's everyone's thoughts on meers????
> 
> I've been thinking about getting a couple and was just wondering what the consensus was. I think the reason I would be looking this way is because of the ability to smoke more than one bowl through it a day. That way I'm not trying to carry three or four pipes around at all time..... Thoughts??


I personally don't have one, but I know some on here do. My only thought on them is that they seem to be more fussy (if you want them to color evenly), and more fragile than other materials.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Hannibal said:


> So what's everyone's thoughts on meers????
> 
> I've been thinking about getting a couple and was just wondering what the consensus was. I think the reason I would be looking this way is because of the ability to smoke more than one bowl through it a day. That way I'm not trying to carry three or four pipes around at all time..... Thoughts??


I think smoking the same pipe more than once a day is fine. People used to carry a single pipe and around and smoke it all day long. The "old" rule was a different pipe every day to give the one you just smoked time to dry out some. Sitting at home, I rotate through my pipes, more or less at random, but even here I'll smoke the say pipe maybe three times in a day, other pipes interspersed. But when I go out, I just take a cob and smoke bowl after bowl in it. ipe: And if I didn't have a cob, it wouldn't matter. Back when, I'd still just take one pipe, one of the small ones, and smoke it all day long. Next day, I'd take a different one.

I feel like some sort of throwback. (Wonder how many pipes were in Einstein's rotation? :lol: )

Don't let that stop you from getting meer, though! :tu


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

Not all my briars necessarily get rest between bowls. I haven't really had a problem smoking one that I particularly like every day, or a couple times a day. If the tobacco is fairly dry and it sees a cleaner after every smoke it would seem like it would take a lot to get one waterlogged.
My concerns with meers are the care involved. They are cool, and many are beautiful, but as previously mentioned coloring can be a chore. I'm not sure how I feel about having to buy a secondary bowl to achieve good color, and they just look silly with a coloring bowl in them so I probably wouldn't smoke it in public. And then meers are fragile, and not just in a chip, *****, crack kind of way. The stem actually slides into an insert on the ones I have seen, and the insert is splined and pressed into the meer. You have to be careful twisting the stem one direction when removing it to keep from damaging the insert, and it looks like a difficult repair if you get a break in that area. All in all, while you could smoke bowl after bowl in one it seems like you'd be spending a lot of time caring for the pipe instead of just smoking it. I may add a meer or two to the rack at some point, but when I do it will likely be for aesthetics as opposed to convenience.


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## Hannibal (Apr 22, 2011)

Okay another semi noob question..... 

What are some of the good mid range to higher end pipe makers out there? I have mostly Peterson, Nording, bjarne, Stanwell and was looking to get a better pipe. And while I'm on this subject are pipes like anything else you get what you pay for or are you paying more for a name? Or is it more of a status thing?

Thoughts?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Hannibal said:


> And while I'm on this subject are pipes like anything else you get what you pay for or are you paying more for a name? Or is it more of a status thing?
> 
> Thoughts?


A new Dunhill goes for approximately three times what it's "really" worth. Always a good pipe, even a great pipe, but equally great pipes can be had for less. A pipe can only be so good, from a mechanical/smoking standpoint. I'd estimate to get an ideal, new smoking instrument one needs to shell out close to $200 to be confident that it will have no mechanical problems. You can find refurbished estate pipes in that range that are magnificent, which would easily run toward $400 new. Beyond that, we begin to talk about aesthetics, grain, beautiful styling and workmanship combined. Then one begins to move into fru-fru land, with pipes heading north of $1000 and on into the stratosphere; I think these pipes, beautiful as they are, can have price tags totally out of reason for anybody without unlimited money throw around. Then there are the collector items -- I saw a Dunhill on e bay that went for $12000, unsmoked, that belonged to King Edward VIII, aka the Duke of Windsor. He smoked a Sasieni, though, which explains why the Dunhill was unsmoked! :lol:









You'll find a lot of nice estate pre-Transition, "Family Era" Sasieni Four Dots on e bay. Depending on condition, they'll go from $150-250, and are every bit the equal of the estate Dunhills costing much more. Gorgeous pipes! (The new Sasienis seem to be good smokers, but hardly the same quality as the old ones.) Old Comoy's and Parkers (Dunhill lower end) and such-like also make frequent appearances. I'd check Home for some quality used pipes, fully restored. You'll quickly find that even used pipes can cost a ton! :lol:

Pipes are like cars. The minute you drive them off the lot, they aren't new any more!


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Hannibal said:


> Okay another semi noob question.....
> 
> What are some of the good mid range to higher end pipe makers out there? I have mostly Peterson, Nording, bjarne, Stanwell and was looking to get a better pipe...


Better looking or better smoking?


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## Hannibal (Apr 22, 2011)

Well both actually. But better smoking ultimately....


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## cp478 (Oct 23, 2008)

As for me I found much better smoking characteristics from older estate really aged briars of good quality.
I am just getting into these but Im sure some others here could fill you in. I know that Moo is fond of old Brakner pipes. But they are hard to find.


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## Tinuz (Jul 7, 2011)

Guys, it's been a while and in the mean time I have learned a lot about pipe smoking. Anyway, I can finally smoke the top half without much relighting (or at all), however, I do have a small problem. I can't seem to get an even light at the top, and it tends to burn away from the edges. I get that it is partially a packing problem, but very often I have a lot of problems getting an even light with either a (soft flame) lighter or a match. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Maybe use a different way of lighting?


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Jewan, that happens to me a lot, too. What I do when it happens is kinda scrape the top layer of tobacco around a bit with my pipe tool, then tamp, relight if necessary, and keep on puffing. It usually straightens out fine after that.

I'm still kinda new to the pipe as well, so maybe one of the FOG's has some better insight.


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

Tinuz said:


> Guys, it's been a while and in the mean time I have learned a lot about pipe smoking. Anyway, I can finally smoke the top half without much relighting (or at all), however, I do have a small problem. I can't seem to get an even light at the top, and it tends to burn away from the edges. I get that it is partially a packing problem, but very often I have a lot of problems getting an even light with either a (soft flame) lighter or a match. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Maybe use a different way of lighting?


Ah the infamous noobie "cone burn". Fill (don't pack) the bowl, too loose or too tight - coupled with too much suction (sip, don't draw too fast on the puffing) can cause this. Also, it helps to keep about 1/8th inch below the rim on the top when filling, into that space sprinkle really dry and really powdered baccy. That will burn fast, and light with a round-n-round action, making sure you are igniting all around the rim of the bowl. This should give a happy and even "cherry".


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

is mcb's vanilla cream flake the same as vanilla flake?


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> is mcb's vanilla cream flake the same as vanilla flake?


Not 100% sure, but I would think so...

where are you seeing it?


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

smoking pipes has vanilla cream and i went to see what was in it on tobaccoreview and it only has vanilla flake


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> smoking pipes has vanilla cream and i went to see what was in it on tobaccoreview and it only has vanilla flake


There is a vanilla cream (loose cut) and a vanilla cream flake, so the reviews may be for the loose cut unless it says it is the flake. I would think if they are talking about the flake than it probably is the same thing.


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

check these out...

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/pipe-related-reviews/290721-macbaren-vanilla-flake.html

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/v.../295212-macbaren-vanilla-cream-loose-cut.html


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> smoking pipes has vanilla cream and i went to see what was in it on tobaccoreview and it only has vanilla flake


This always bugged me a little. They call it "Vanilla Flake", but it clearly says on the can, "Vanilla *Cream* Flake Cut".


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

ya, it looks like vanilla cream is different... and i just found the vanilla flake. it looks like it comes in a 16oz, so no tin..


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> ya, it looks like vanilla cream is different... and i just found the vanilla flake. it looks like it comes in a 16oz, so no tin..


One is loose cut and one is a flake. The flake is called Vanilla Flake on tobakrevs, but I'm pretty sure they're talking about the stuff that says Vanilla Cream Flake on the can.

Mac Baren Vanilla Cream Flake 50g Tobaccos at Smoking Pipes .com


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

I saw the 16oz box of vanilla flake, but I would be willing to bet that it is the same as the 50g tin of vanilla creme flake. Mac Baren seems to offer everything in a tin and 1lb package, so I find it hard to imagine the don't with the flake. Try PMing Jeff10236 (the guy who wrote the reviews I posted), I would bet that he knows...


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

The lettering and artwork on the Loose and the Flake are the same. I hereby pronounce "Vanilla Flake" and "Vanilla Cream Flake" one and the same, preferring "Vanilla Cream Flake" by a lot.

mars cigars & pipes - MacBaren - Page 2


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

but here is the thing. how come the prices are different for the same thing is one is 16 oz and the other is 1 lb but both are the same but 10 dollars different


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

EvoFX said:


> but here is the thing. how come the prices are different for the same thing is one is 16 oz and the other is 1 lb but both are the same but 10 dollars different


That is a rather large price differential. I guess it's not the "same", but rather the same flavor and tobacco components. I had this vision of the loose version merely being a broken up flake version, but now I'm guessing the flake version is the pressed and sliced loose version. That would make some sense, since there's a lot of extra steps involved. Pretty inexpensive, though! Costs about the same as Prince Albert! :shock:


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## Nick S. (Jul 10, 2011)

I know that one of Jeff's reviews compared the two...

Here:
_"Comparison to MB Vanilla Flake: These are the same tobacco with different presentations so, not surprisingly, they are very similar. However, there are differences. With the flake, the Cavendish is pretty noticeable to me with its characteristic creamy nutty flavor. The Loose Cut is very creamy, but I don't get any nut flavors or smells. I also don't seem to get as much of the natural Virginia sweetness in this as I do with the flake, the sweetness seems more from the vanilla here. On the topic of vanilla, the vanilla in the flake is a bit more subtle, here it is front and center, definitely stronger." _


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

freestoke said:


> That is a rather large price differential. I guess it's not the "same", but rather the same flavor and tobacco components. I had this vision of the loose version merely being a broken up flake version, but now I'm guessing the flake version is the pressed and sliced loose version. That would make some sense, since there's a lot of extra steps involved. Pretty inexpensive, though! Costs about the same as Prince Albert! :shock:


They are both made from VA and VA cavendish (no burley, which is unusual in a pure aromatic). The pressed (flake) version does taste different, no doubt due to the pressure/heat/whatever else they assault it with. Personally I prefer the flake, I find it burns a wee bit cooler and bites less (MacBitten, after all). Note that rubbing out a flake does NOT create a loose-cut version, the pressing process has altered it into the more expensive blend.


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## EvoFX (Nov 11, 2008)

RJpuffs said:


> They are both made from VA and VA cavendish (no burley, which is unusual in a pure aromatic). The pressed (flake) version does taste different, no doubt due to the pressure/heat/whatever else they assault it with. Personally I prefer the flake, I find it burns a wee bit cooler and bites less (MacBitten, after all). Note that rubbing out a flake does NOT create a loose-cut version, the pressing process has altered it into the more expensive blend.


good to know about rubbing the flake into a broken flake haha.

Also Patriot Flake, does it really have latakia? i am not sure if i can taste it. very subtle if it is?


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## Cadillac (Feb 28, 2007)

This isn't a pipe related question so much as a pipe smoker question. Anyone know what happened to Madurolover?


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Why are some aromatics sticky/goopy, yet others feel dryer? Is one tougher to smoke than another? Is one 'better' than another? I've got some McClelland's Darkest Chocolate that sticks together when pressed, and I've got some Two Friends English Chocolate which is more 'flaky.' Does the stickier baccy need to be aired out for a significant time prior to smoking?


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

jswaykos said:


> Why are some aromatics sticky/goopy, yet others feel dryer? Is one tougher to smoke than another? Is one 'better' than another? I've got some McClelland's Darkest Chocolate that sticks together when pressed, and I've got some Two Friends English Chocolate which is more 'flaky.' Does the stickier baccy need to be aired out for a significant time prior to smoking?


Quite a few blenders will add Proplyene Glycol (PG) to their tobaccos to keep them from drying out too much. I think it is more prevalent when there is an aromatic topping applied to the tobacco, maybe to make the flavor last longer. I find that the tobaccos with PG (or just more of it) are really hard to dry out.

I think you will find much less PG (maybe none at all) in the Hearth and Home Blends or in anything made by Cornell and Diehl - they make the GL Pease blends, the Two Friends blends, and of course their own brand.


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## Wiseguy1982 (Nov 17, 2009)

I hope this hasn't been asked before, but, do all pipes have their airways coming in through the side of the bowl? Do any have airways that come up straight through the bottom of the bowl?


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## mmiller (Nov 17, 2011)

Wiseguy1982 said:


> I hope this hasn't been asked before, but, do all pipes have their airways coming in through the side of the bowl? Do any have airways that come up straight through the bottom of the bowl?


I know that Falcons, Kirstens, and Calabashes do but, they all have removable bowls. I think a removable bowls are the only cases that the airway comes in through the bottom or else it would be nearly impossible to clean.


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## Wiseguy1982 (Nov 17, 2009)

mmiller said:


> ...or else it would be nearly impossible to clean.


True, I never thought of that. Thanks sir!


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Is pipe baccy typically stronger - from a nicotine standpoint - than cigars? A couple bowls kick my ass, but I can smoke 2-3 cigars while golfing no problem. Maybe I should take my time standing up after finishing?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

jswaykos said:


> Is pipe baccy typically stronger - from a nicotine standpoint - than cigars? A couple bowls kick my ass, but I can smoke 2-3 cigars while golfing no problem. Maybe I should take my time standing up after finishing?


There is some disagreement, but I think pipe tobacco can be stronger than cigars. Most pipe tobacco is no stronger or even as strong, but some blends, like Happy Bogie, seem more potent than the cigars I've smoked. I suspect that the strains of tobacco and the curing methods used respectively account for the difference.


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## mmiller (Nov 17, 2011)

jswaykos said:


> Is pipe baccy typically stronger - from a nicotine standpoint - than cigars? A couple bowls kick my ass, but I can smoke 2-3 cigars while golfing no problem. Maybe I should take my time standing up after finishing?


I wouldnt say that are typically stronger, there are pipe tobaccos I could smoke all day and there are others that can make me super jittery or even sick. Maybe you just happen to have strong blends or you just react to pipe tobacco differently. For me personally the only tobacco that has made me sick are cigars. I can handle strong pipe tobaccos like Royal Yacht, 1792, Irish Flake, and C&D BF#1 but I smoked a CAO LX2 and it made me get sick. For a good guide on nic content of pipe tobaccos check out tobaccoreviews dot com.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

jswaykos said:


> Is pipe baccy typically stronger - from a nicotine standpoint - than cigars? A couple bowls kick my ass, but I can smoke 2-3 cigars while golfing no problem. Maybe I should take my time standing up after finishing?


I would say "not necessarily." There are way too many factors in the equation. There are strong and mild pipe tobaccos just like there are strong and mild cigars. And there are different sized cigars and different sized pipes. And different cigars and pipe tobaccos seem to affect individuals differently.

I used to think just the opposite, that pipes inherrently deliver _less_ nicotine than cigars. But I was smoking big full bodied cigars and comparing them to smallish bowls of relatively mild pipe tobacco.

Apples and oranges and all that


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> I would say "not necessarily." There are way too many factors in the equation. There are strong and mild pipe tobaccos just like there are strong and mild cigars. And there are different sized cigars and different sized pipes. And different cigars and pipe tobaccos seem to affect individuals differently.
> 
> I used to think just the opposite, that pipes inherrently deliver _less_ nicotine than cigars. But I was smoking big full bodied cigars and comparing them to smallish bowls of relatively mild pipe tobacco.
> 
> Apples and oranges and all that


Yeah, I should've realized it was a bit of a dumb question, of course all baccies are different. Duh. I should know better! But yesterday's combo of Stokkebye Pistachio and a Cain Daytona made me sick for the first time I can ever remember. I typically smoke very strong flavored/bodied cigars, too. Don't know if I just smoked them too fast or what, but it was NOT a pleasant combo!


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Gents, I'm planning to get a Dr. Grabow. I've had my eyes set on the Omega, but recently in a youtube video, I saw the gentleman very happy with his Dr. G Lark. He did mention it being a little bit small, but he thought it was perfect.

Now I'm a bit double-minded as to what I should get. Bowl Size is *not* a factor, a small bowl could be nice in fact, for a quick smoke. While looking at 4noggins' Grabow range, I think I'll go for any of the Grand Duke, Riviera or Royal Duke. Any suggestions, reviews and experiences will be highly appreciated...

Also, since I won't be able to get consumable alcohol for the thorougher cleanings, is the Pipemaster's Clean and Cure (the only pipe sweetener in-stock there) a good choice? And how often do you need to clean your pipe that thoroughly?


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## mmiller (Nov 17, 2011)

Go with whatever pipe you think you will like best. If you are set on Dr. Grabow pipes they all seem to be drilled pretty well so you really cant go wrong. If you get a big bowl pipe you can always put less tobacco in it and smoke it for less time or put it out and light it up later, anything non aromatic will fare well DGTed (Delayed Gratification Technique) As for thorough cleaning you shouldnt have to do that more than probably once or twice a year at most. You go for a heavy cleaning when you pipe turns sour and makes the tobacco taste bad. If you clean your pipe well after each smoke it wont be a problem for quite some time.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Go with the one you think looks nicest. I've got a Carved Omega and a Smooth Big Pipe. The finish is flaking off of the Big Pipe in a couple of small areas....but it's not bad, and what do you expect when you buy a cheap machine made pipe? Corners are gonna be cut somewhere. They are both fantastic smokers!

Not to complicate your decision, but a couple of Dr Grabows have lucite stems but most are vulcanite. Personal preference really, one is not inherently better than the other.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Thanks Matt and Cliff


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

jswaykos said:


> But yesterday's combo of Stokkebye Pistachio and a Cain Daytona made me sick for the first time I can ever remember. I typically smoke very strong flavored/bodied cigars, too. Don't know if I just smoked them too fast or what, but it was NOT a pleasant combo!


Puzzling. I've never had either, but tobakrevs puts Pistachio in the "Very Mild" group. Either Cain Daytona is an new nicotine powerhouse or something else is going on.


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Cains are full bodied powerhouses. The Daytona is the mildest of the line, but (as memory serves...I only had one or two and its been a while) its still a solidly full bodied cigar.


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

gahdzila said:


> Cains are full bodied powerhouses. The Daytona is the mildest of the line, but (as memory serves...I only had one or two and its been a while) its still a solidly full bodied cigar.


The Daytonas aren't THAT strong, but I suppose a 'weak' Cain is still stronger than most cigars. Who knows why it hit me so hard... some nights alcohol hits me harder than others for no real reason. I hadn't eaten a ton beforehand, so that could be why, too.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

jswaykos said:


> The Daytonas aren't THAT strong, but I suppose a 'weak' Cain is still stronger than most cigars. Who knows why it hit me so hard... some nights alcohol hits me harder than others for no real reason. I hadn't eaten a ton beforehand, so that could be why, too.


AH! The Cain Daytona is a CIGAR! :doh: I thought he had mixed Pistachio and a pipe tobacco I'd never heard of! :lol:


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

freestoke said:


> AH! The Cain Daytona is a CIGAR! :doh: I thought he had mixed Pistachio and a pipe tobacco I'd never heard of! :lol:


LOL! No worries. I forget that not everyone smokes both with regularity.


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Question regarding common storage techniques... do you keep your baccy in the sealed tin until you open it and THEN put it in a mason jar, or you typically open new baccy tins immediately and put straight in to a jar? Does it 'age' better or worse in one vs. the other? I like looking at all the sealed tins, but I also want to open and smell them all as they come in, haha.


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## mmiller (Nov 17, 2011)

Personally I keep my tobacco tinned until I want a bowl of it bad enough. As soon as I open the tin though it goes straight into a jar. Tobacco ages better in jars too because tins are vacuum sealed so all the good bacteria doesnt have air to to their job. A little air gets the job started.


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## Oldmso54 (Jul 31, 2010)

It's NOOB Time!!! I think I already know the answer but here goes anyway:

1. Is the St Patricks Day Peterson Pipe just a marketing gimmick or is it a quality pipe worth the $90 ish?

2. Savinelli is the ONLY name I ever heard of in pipes before DanR and his sidekick Hannibal pushed me off the cliff... so, I've seen a lot of Savinellis I like from $56 - $75. Are these "quality" pipes, "good" pipes or "just average" pipes? 

In the cigar world you have Premium sticks, Boutique sticks, HTF sticks and lots of lots of feedback on them. I kinda wish there was a pipe ranking where you could kinda see what was what within a given price range (if that makes sense) 

Thanks in advance Gents


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## mmiller (Nov 17, 2011)

1. The St. Pattys day pipe is a little of both. It is a quality pipe but they have dates on them so they are a collectors item which gets people to try and buy one every year. $90 is well worth it for a quality Peterson.

2. The Savinellis you are looking at in that price range are quality pipes from what I have heard. The main thing for me to see if a pipe is quality is how is the drill. According to others it is perfect. Next comes the finish and wood quality. Savinelli has excellent finishes that will look great for years to come no matter what it is. The briar they use also seems to have very minimal fills if any they just dont have as attractive grain as the high end ones (birdseye or flame grain) They seem to be a random grain that doesnt fit in one category.


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## szyzk (Nov 27, 2010)

Oldmso54 said:


> 1. Is the St Patricks Day Peterson Pipe just a marketing gimmick or is it a quality pipe worth the $90 ish?


Same shape as other Petersons, but I think the finish is a bit nicer plus "St Patty's Day" is stamped on the silver ring.



Oldmso54 said:


> 2. so, I've seen a lot of Savinellis I like from $56 - $75. Are these "quality" pipes, "good" pipes or "just average" pipes?


Same range as a Peterson. Widely available, lots of finishes and styles to choose from, and they seem to smoke great. I don't think I've ever heard anyone say that they had a terrible experience with a Sav, though I'm sure somebody has at some point given the nature of the game. They aren't in the same ballpark as the $200+ pipes but not many are. I think they're absolutely worth the price.

In fact, at some point I want to add a Sav Clark's Favorite to my pipe rack... But that's down the road.


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## Oldmso54 (Jul 31, 2010)

So let's see: Thats 1 St Pattys day; 1 Savinelli; or maybe 2 since there are so many I like; then there's this one Savinelli Estate Pipe on this site; hmmmm = you're all conspirators and co conspirators LOL. Well I did make an 8 pipe rack.... :dunno:


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## szyzk (Nov 27, 2010)

Oldmso54 said:


> So let's see: Thats 1 St Pattys day; 1 Savinelli; or maybe 2 since there are so many I like; then there's this one Savinelli Estate Pipe on this site; hmmmm = you're all conspirators and co conspirators LOL. Well I did make an 8 pipe rack.... :dunno:


I really wanted the St Patty's Canadian, I liked the look of it but decided against it at the last minute since I have two other Petes!

Also, I don't know anything about an estate Sav on this site! :hmm:


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Oldmso54 said:


> So let's see: Thats 1 St Pattys day; 1 Savinelli; or maybe 2 since there are so many I like; then there's this one Savinelli Estate Pipe on this site; hmmmm = you're all conspirators and co conspirators LOL. Well I did make an 8 pipe rack.... :dunno:


Go with a St. Patrick's pipe! The collector in me likes the 'limited' nature of this pipe. I've already got 8 pipes (6 Nordings, 2 Peterson's), as I love this side of the hobby.


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

What are some other 'good' brands of pipes other than the ones being discussed here? I love Nording but want to branch out. I like the Peterson's, but they're a tad expensive to go crazy with. Various Chacoms have caught my eye, how are those? What else in the $50-$70 range is worth a look? Or is this truly a situation where you get what you pay for, at least with regard to briars?


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## Oldmso54 (Jul 31, 2010)

jswaykos said:


> Go with a St. Patrick's pipe! The collector in me likes the 'limited' nature of this pipe. I've already got 8 pipes (6 Nordings, 2 Peterson's), as I love this side of the hobby.


I just finished a couple other threads and looks like you jumped in with both feet too Joe! I'm feeling much better about buying 2 pipes at a time now LOL!!!


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## mmiller (Nov 17, 2011)

jswaykos said:


> What are some other 'good' brands of pipes other than the ones being discussed here? I love Nording but want to branch out. I like the Peterson's, but they're a tad expensive to go crazy with. Various Chacoms have caught my eye, how are those? What else in the $50-$70 range is worth a look? Or is this truly a situation where you get what you pay for, at least with regard to briars?


Bjarne makes good pipes and their viking line is affordable, Johs is a good brand too, he used to be a carver for Bjarne. You can probably find Sasienis in that price range too. Brebbia and Vauen as well. Take a look at Butz Choquin and GBD as well as Mario Grandi on fleabay


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

Oldmso54 said:


> I just finished a couple other threads and looks like you jumped in with both feet too Joe! I'm feeling much better about buying 2 pipes at a time now LOL!!!


If I had four feet I would've jumped in with all four. It's a flaw of mine (according to my wife, anyway... I see no real issues with it!). I figure that if I stuck with cheap pipes and baccies I'd decide I didn't like this side of the hobby without giving it a fair shot. And it's not like I'm new to tobacco - I've been smoking cigars for years. Pipes are a great alternative. I like that pipes/pipe tobacco is cheap enough to buy at my B&M to keep it local for the majority of my purchases. I can easily swing y the shop and pick up a few tins without hurting the wallet too much. Can't do that with cigars in CA.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

*Has anyone had any experience or heard about watson-shop.com.ua? It's a Ukraine-based pipe and tobacco store. Their fleebay-store has nice feedback and positive rating.*

In my search for Dr. Grabow product range, I came along this site. They seem to be offering great shipping rates (great attraction for people out of the Continental US). When I went through their shipped-country list, they hadn't listed Pakistan in there. So I dropped them an email asking if there was ANY way they could ship to me. Got a reply this morning from the owner that they have updated the shipping list and now I can order!! That alone is impressive enough for me.

What do the experienced online buyers suggest? I'm totally comfortable buying from US-based stores, but the shipping cost to Pakistan can sting a bit. Also, most sellers offer only Priority Shipping for international orders, which is even more expensive. I know this is for both the customer's and the seller's peace of mind, even then I don't feel like paying $30-50 S&H for a $25 Grabow, I hope you understand :bawling:. So, I kinda have to look around... So :help: :help:


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

mmiller said:


> Tobacco ages better in jars too because tins are vacuum sealed so *all the good bacteria doesnt have air to to their job*. A little air gets the job started.


One of the problems involved with vacuum packed foods can be the growth of anaerobic bacteria. As fate may have it, anaerobic bacteria are the ones that age tobacco, not aerobic (or macro?) bacteria. Aging will not recommence in a transferred tin until the oxygen has been used up by the macrobacteria, allowing the anaerobic bacteria to begin to multiply. (I have no idea how long that takes.) The problem with tins with broken seals, which you should check for from time to time, is that not only does the tobacco become stale, but also stops aging.


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## NomoMoMo (Feb 19, 2012)

I've seen that certain pipes are better for certain types of tobacco, like a small tapered bowl are good for flakes (I think that's what I read) What are the recommendations for different tobaccos and pipes sizes.


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## Desertlifter (Feb 22, 2011)

mmiller said:


> Bjarne makes good pipes and their viking line is affordable, Johs is a good brand too, he used to be a carver for Bjarne. You can probably find Sasienis in that price range too. Brebbia and Vauen as well. Take a look at Butz Choquin and GBD as well as Mario Grandi on fleabay


+1 on Bjarne - I love mine, granted that it is my first briar. I have the Copenhagen saucer:
Bjarne COPENHAGEN LIGHT ''VIRGIN'' Pipe - Saucer


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

freestoke said:


> One of the problems involved with vacuum packed foods can be the growth of anaerobic bacteria. As fate may have it, anaerobic bacteria are the ones that age tobacco, not aerobic (or macro?) bacteria. Aging will not recommence in a transferred tin until the oxygen has been used up by the macrobacteria, allowing the anaerobic bacteria to begin to multiply. (I have no idea how long that takes.) The problem with tins with broken seals, which you should check for from time to time, is that not only does the tobacco become stale, but also stops aging.


Agreed. I would also add that tins are not a complete vacuum. In fact, the poptop tins, as far as I know, involve no vacuum at all. The tins that do use a vacuum seal (like the square ones) don't have all the air removed, just enough to make a seal, which doesn't really take that much of an air pressure difference. Tobacco ages just fine in the tin.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

NomoMoMo said:


> I've seen that certain pipes are better for certain types of tobacco, like a small tapered bowl are good for flakes (I think that's what I read) What are the recommendations for different tobaccos and pipes sizes.


Well, the usual line is, as you say, small tapered bowls for flakes, thick walls for virginias, big pipes for balkans, etc., but I would recommend experimenting yourself to find out what you prefer. My ABF (a flake) pipe is a Baronet Prince, a pipe with a bowl that is not only a decent size, but very, very wide. Works great for me. On the other hand, FVF goes into a small bowled Castello. As for the tapered bowls, I avoid them out of laziness. I hate reaming a tapered bowl!


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## auspipe (Mar 7, 2012)

Any suggestions for a reasonably priced pipe for a newbie? I am in Australia and starting with 2 corn cob "gentleman" pipes but would like a nice briar pipe. Churchwardens are very appealing but not very practical. I am willing to spend up to $80 or so, but would rather spend less. I have to buy online as there is not much availability here.


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## RupturedDuck (Jan 11, 2012)

My suggestion would be to cruise ebay for something that catches our eye. I am always amazed at the pieces that you can get for $40-$60 on ebay. Do searches for solid brands: Peterson (of course), Comoy, Sasieni, Stanwell. "Flame Grain" or "Straight Grain" is another search I do sometimes in the pipe category.

Although shipping charges may be an issue for you, something that you should keep in mind is that stems are replaceable. They cost from $20-$40 depending on whether an acceptable custom made stem would work, or if you have to have a honest to goodness replacement factory stem. You can get some very nice pipes for cheap that just require a good cleaning. There is a lot of great information regarding cleaning on this site. Karatekyle has a link to a great thread at the bottom of his signature.

RD


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## jswaykos (Oct 26, 2010)

auspipe said:


> Any suggestions for a reasonably priced pipe for a newbie? I am in Australia and starting with 2 corn cob "gentleman" pipes but would like a nice briar pipe. Churchwardens are very appealing but not very practical. I am willing to spend up to $80 or so, but would rather spend less. I have to buy online as there is not much availability here.


Mario Grandi ships to Australia, although the cost is quite steep - believe it's $30 to you. You'll get a nice pipe for $100 delivered, though, and they're all unique and one-of-a-kind. I've gotten two, now, and both have been great smokers from the first bowl.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

A noob question, *what* exactly do you guys mean by "sipping" when talking about smoking cadence/method? When I'm smoking, I either puff very lightly, by only moving my jaw a little with lips sealed around the bit, thus creating a light vacuum in the mouth, OR I simply breath through the nose with lips shut around the bit which also works like puffing lightly. Either way, I find that after 2/3 puffs, the pipe can get a tad too warm. What is it that I'm doing wrong??


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## mmiller (Nov 17, 2011)

Jogi said:


> A noob question, *what* exactly do you guys mean by "sipping" when talking about smoking cadence/method? When I'm smoking, I either puff very lightly, by only moving my jaw a little with lips sealed around the bit, thus creating a light vacuum in the mouth, OR I simply breath through the nose with lips shut around the bit which also works like puffing lightly. Either way, I find that after 2/3 puffs, the pipe can get a tad too warm. What is it that I'm doing wrong??


It could also be that you are puffing too often. You want to puff often enough too keep the pipe lit but slow enough to where it doesnt get hot I would say warm is okay. As for the sipping you would take a sip as if you were sipping some hot coffee or tea so your method of puffing sound correct. So maybe try puffing less often, the type of tobacco may also have an affect on the heat of your pipe.


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## NomoMoMo (Feb 19, 2012)

Just purchased a Bjarne churchwarden to smoke flake tobacco and was wondering, with the small bowl, do I still have to break it in the normal way (Smoke a half bowl, 3/4 bowl full) or since it is a small pipe, just go easy in the beginning. I also noticed that the inside of the bowl is black, not sure if that means it doesn't need to be broken in.

Thanks.


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## mmiller (Nov 17, 2011)

Yeah you would just break it in like a normal pipe but the black coating is a carbon coating, this helps your pipe not get a burn out and it gives the ash something to stick to for a healthy cake.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Or, from the other side, the carbon coating is a useless additive that I wish pipe makers would quit using. I haven't found uncoated bowls to be any harder to break in than coated bowls. As to the question though, yeah, you still need to break it in. Packing it full is fine, as long as you smoke the bowl all the way down.


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## NomoMoMo (Feb 19, 2012)

MarkC said:


> As to the question though, yeah, you still need to break it in. Packing it full is fine, as long as you smoke the bowl all the way down.


All the way down you say...Sounds like an action I'm willing to take. p


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## NomoMoMo (Feb 19, 2012)

What is a good way to tell if your tobacco is dry enough to smoke without continually going out?


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## Aquinas (Mar 30, 2010)

You need to experiment with different blends. Some smoke better a lot dryer and some some better with a little bit more moisture. On a normal shag cut tobacco you can take a pinch on tobacco between your fingers and when you open your fingers you don't want the tobacco to be clumped together a ton but you also don't want it to crumble. Flakes are a different game all together. Some flakes I dry out over night. check out some of the threads dedicated to flakes for that.


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## MisterWolf (Feb 8, 2012)

Ok, I am sure that this has been asked here, but I am having trouble finding it with the search function. 

I just got gifted a new Savinelli Trevi 606 by a friend. (Great friend!) I was wanting to make sure that I break the pipe in correctly so that it doesn't get ruined on me. I read several things on the 'net about it including checking the Savinelli website. Thirty different answers, of course. I even asked the pipe guy at my local JR. What gives? What is the most common method in use here? (Translation, what have you guys found most effective?)

Second, I was thinking to try out English tobacco styles. So far, my favorite pipe tobacco is (I am told) a Lane product called 1Q. What I read on here suggests that aromatics ghost a pipe worst than English, but the pipe guy at my local shop where I was grabbing new things to try said the exact opposite. His concern/advice was 1)yes, definitely designate a pipe for English and one for Aromatics 2) the lakatia (not sure I have that right) that is in English styles will ghost a pipe monumentally worse than any aromatic. Can I get some thoughts from you guys about this one? I grabbed a Macbaren Scottish blend as he said it was sort of the dividing line between English and Aromatics. None of the tobacco that is in the traditional English styles that will ghost a pipe so bad and yet not an aromatic.

Thanks for your thoughts and help!
Wolf


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## Wiseguy1982 (Nov 17, 2009)

This has been a difficult one for me.

What blend contains the largest amount of Perique?


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## mmiller (Nov 17, 2011)

Personally I think Bayou Morning has quite the perique content, most I have ever had, it is like filling your mouth with black pepper and letting it sit there, you can taste it for a while after also very spicy you will love it if you love that sort of thing


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## TommyTree (Jan 7, 2012)

Wiseguy1982 said:


> This has been a difficult one for me.
> 
> What blend contains the largest amount of Perique?


Try John Patton's Cool Hand Fluke. It has 40% perique but is still pretty smooth.


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## TommyTree (Jan 7, 2012)

MisterWolf said:


> Ok, I am sure that this has been asked here, but I am having trouble finding it with the search function.
> 
> I just got gifted a new Savinelli Trevi 606 by a friend. (Great friend!) I was wanting to make sure that I break the pipe in correctly so that it doesn't get ruined on me. I read several things on the 'net about it including checking the Savinelli website. Thirty different answers, of course. I even asked the pipe guy at my local JR. What gives? What is the most common method in use here? (Translation, what have you guys found most effective?)
> 
> ...


You won't mess up your pipe unless you smoke it incredibly hot before there's a good bit of cake built up. Smoke your pipe slowly and to the bottom, and everything will take care of itself. That said, you might not want to start with English blends in it. Burley builds cake the fastest, Virginias the hardest. Latakia and orientals don't build cake much at all. Neither burley (unflavored) nor Virginias will ghost your pipe.

As for ghosting and dedicating, I don't think newer smokers should worry about it at all. There are times to dedicate and times not to, and most of the time, it's the performance of the pipe that will determine it one way or the other. The best way to know which tobacco to smoke in which pipe is to smoke whatever you want in whichever pipe you want. When you come across a pipe that does better with one genre than anything else, then you'll have a dedicated pipe because you won't want to smoke anything else in it. Remember, with a good reaming that removes *almost* all the cake (never ream all the way to bare wood) and a salt and alcohol treatment to clear out the rest, you can effectively start over on any pipe.


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## ChronoB (Nov 4, 2007)

MisterWolf said:


> His concern/advice was 1)yes, definitely designate a pipe for English and one for Aromatics 2) the lakatia (not sure I have that right) that is in English styles will ghost a pipe monumentally worse than any aromatic. Can I get some thoughts from you guys about this one? I grabbed a Macbaren Scottish blend as he said it was sort of the dividing line between English and Aromatics. None of the tobacco that is in the traditional English styles that will ghost a pipe so bad and yet not an aromatic.
> 
> Thanks for your thoughts and help!
> Wolf


When it comes to which will be worse at ghosting a pipe, aromatics are the king. True ghosting is when a pipe conveys aromas from prior, different blends smoked in it to the point it is overshadowing the aromas of your current blend in it. The problem of ghosting with non-aromatics is vastly overblown, in my personal opinion. I have numerous pipes, I keep them clean, and I rotate them routinely. I smoke mainly english/balkan blends, but when I choose to smoke a straight virginia or virginia/perique blend I get no intrusion from past smokes. Now, if you were really sensitive to (or really disliked) the aromas of perique or latakia then you might detect a little if they've been smoked in that pipe. But if you were really sensitive them or disliked them you wouldn't be smoking them anyway.

In short, don't cross over pipes between aros and non-aros. With non-aros (or blends like the one you mentioned with mild flavorings) keep you pipes clean, rotate them frequently, and ghosting shouldn't be a problem.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Guys this one's related to the NST but I didn't want to disrupt that thread so posting here.

*Can I participate in the NST, cuz you can see that I'm located in a land far far away.*

I've been buying pipe stuff every now and then from 4noggins and MM online store, one English and one Ukrainian store and never had any problem with online payments and/or receiving my orders. Mentioning this to tell you guys that our postal and online payments systems etc here are fairly reliable so nothing to worry about. Shipping MAY cost upward of $10 but I'll be more than happy to cover this at my end.

I'd prefer to send my end via 4noggins as I've never had any problems in making payments, and frankly, I haven't tried the other big names like P&C or CupoJoes etc. yet.

The only thing the other puffer will have to keep in mind, is to use a little box for the items they send (like maybe those little flat rate boxes etc.??), and mark it as hobby item or something like that, cuz an envelope with soft spongy content is bound to get stuck somewhere in the customs etc.

Thanks and I really hope I can participate too.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Jogi said:


> Guys this one's related to the NST but I didn't want to disrupt that thread so posting here.
> 
> *Can I participate in the NST, cuz you can see that I'm located in a land far far away.*


It's certainly been done, many times I think. I have sent things to England a couple of times with no problems, even though the gauntlet is probably as severe into the UK as into Pakistan. :spy: You may wind up on the "waiting" list, but somebody will pick you up, I'd venture. I'd say throw your hat in there with a link to your post here (explaining your circumstances) and let the ashes blow where they may!


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Yeah, like Jim said, I'd just post in the NST thread that you would like to participate, but make it known that you're from the far away lands and see where it goes from there.


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## rogypipe (May 29, 2012)

whats the name best aromatic pipe tobacco ? can you offer me one ? thanx


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## Locksmith (May 31, 2012)

I have a question, I've been reading up a lot over the past few weeks as the Pipe Frenzy illness has taken me, and all I want to do is read about pipes.

Anyway, I have seen a few times that people have noticed a big difference in smoking certain tobacco's in a certain pipe.
I was also wondering whether I would have been better buying a Estate pipe instead of the brand new one for my first.
looking forward to your answers 

K


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Locksmith said:


> I have a question, I've been reading up a lot over the past few weeks as the Pipe Frenzy illness has taken me, and all I want to do is read about pipes.
> 
> Anyway, I have seen a few times that people have noticed a big difference in smoking certain tobacco's in a certain pipe.
> I was also wondering whether I would have been better buying a Estate pipe instead of the brand new one for my first.
> ...


Welcome, Kay! Here are a couple of interesting articles about that. The subject does come up a lot, so you can be an instance expert. :smile:

Does Pipe Shape & Size Matter for the Tobacco Type? | The #1 Source for Pipes and Pipe Tobacco Information

How and why chamber geometry impacts tobacco flavor - Neill's Blog - Pipe Blog


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## Locksmith (May 31, 2012)

Had a quick glance, with definitely be reading those later on, thank you very much.

Considering getting an estate pipe now (for as cheap as I can) just to see if there is any difference to what I am using at the moment.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Locksmith said:


> Had a quick glance, with definitely be reading those later on, thank you very much.
> 
> Considering getting an estate pipe now (for as cheap as I can) just to see if there is any difference to what I am using at the moment.


Give this guy a look! His specials are pretty amazing. :smile: Home


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## Locksmith (May 31, 2012)

No kidding, this is possibly the most beautiful thing I have ever seen!


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

I was reading the Pipeman's Handbook (a great collection of pipe wisdom from the web) and I came across the article about tobacco-tin stoving. Basically you heat a new *unopened* tin in the oven at 220F for 2: 20 (hence the name *220 for 220*) and when you open it and smoke it, the results can range from "Hmmm" (subtle improvement) to "DAAAMN!!" (flavors through the roof).

What I want to ask is:
1) Whether anyone has ever tried this themselves? What's your experience? And,
*2) What's gonna happen to an opened tin being subjected to "220 for 220"?? *

I ask because I have an open tin of Erinmore Mixture :behindsofa: which I just can't finish, AND I'm too cheap to throw it away. So I was wondering if this stoving thing might make just a WEE bit better so that it can become a tolerable smoke... :dunno:


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

I have personally never experimented with stoving. But I can tell you that if you put an *unsealed* container of tobacco in the oven like that, it's going to become a dried out crunchy mess. All of the humidity and oils are going to evaporate off. I guess you could seal it up airtight in a mason jar first, but I don't know how well mason jars would handle the heat.


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## Andrewdk (Feb 3, 2011)

freestoke said:


> Give this guy a look! His specials are pretty amazing. :smile: Home


Damn you Freestoke, another site to drowl over. Never seen a four dot before, they are some pretty pipes in there.


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

Jogi said:


> I ask because I have an open tin of Erinmore Mixture :behindsofa: which I just can't finish, AND I'm too cheap to throw it away. So I was wondering if this stoving thing might make just a WEE bit better so that it can become a tolerable smoke... :dunno:


I've personally never had great luck with stoving. It does seem to burn off some casing, but it also seems to change the balance of things. The last method I tried was the car dashboard in the summertime for a few hours. It made GLP Westminster into a Latakia bomb, and Lane RLP-6 into something similar to stale flavored cigarettes. Since I can think of much easier ways to destroy tobacco, I gave up on stoving.

If you really can't stand to throw the Erinmore away, then play amateur tobacconist and mix some with another blend. Prince Albert and Carter Hall can work well but almost any non-aromatic can do the trick. Be creative!

(P.S. If you DO decide to mix it, write down exactly what you're mixing and in what proportion. Sometimes you strike gold doing this and it's nice to be able to reproduce good results.)


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Dan where the heck have you been? Welcome back!


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

Commander Quan said:


> Dan where the heck have you been? Welcome back!


Thanks Derrick, glad to be back!

Life decided to stop with the curve balls and just throw right at me last summer. I lost some people close to me and was dealing with it. I finally decided to turn the page, packed up and came home. When I got here, my baccy cellar, pipes and even the coolidor were intact at my folks place. I found a "You've been bombed by Shuckins" tubo in one of the boxes and it reminded me of some of what I'd left behind.

I started logging back to the forums a few days ago. I'm back in my old apartment, still pulling stuff out of storage, and thankful for the blessings in my life.


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

I'm new to pipes, heck, never smoked one, don't own one. However, I am considering getting one for when I go to college. 

Other than cleaning the pipe itself, what kind of maintenance is required for a pipe and its tobacco? A friend of mine smokes pipes, and he keeps his pipe as well as his tobacco in a little organize....humidor looking display box made especially for pipes. Is that what I need to keep a pipe? What am I looking at in terms of upkeep?


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## karatekyle (Nov 2, 2010)

Parcheezy said:


> I'm new to pipes, heck, never smoked one, don't own one. However, I am considering getting one for when I go to college.
> 
> Other than cleaning the pipe itself, what kind of maintenance is required for a pipe and its tobacco? A friend of mine smokes pipes, and he keeps his pipe as well as his tobacco in a little organize....humidor looking display box made especially for pipes. Is that what I need to keep a pipe? What am I looking at in terms of upkeep?


You need a pipe, tobacco, and something to light it with. Get some pipe cleaners and get a tamper. Those are the only completely necessary accessories.


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## dgerwin11 (Jun 19, 2011)

Parcheezy said:


> I'm new to pipes, heck, never smoked one, don't own one. However, I am considering getting one for when I go to college.
> 
> Other than cleaning the pipe itself, what kind of maintenance is required for a pipe and its tobacco? A friend of mine smokes pipes, and he keeps his pipe as well as his tobacco in a little organize....humidor looking display box made especially for pipes. Is that what I need to keep a pipe? What am I looking at in terms of upkeep?


You can be as fancy or plain as you want to be. I keep my pipes in a wire shelving unit from WalMart. And my tobacco in the tub it comes in.


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

Pretty much.

If you really want a nice wooden box, an empty cigar box from a Tobacconist would work fine.


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

Thanks guys, that helped a lot!


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

One word of advice from someone who's been there: do NOT buy a nice meerschaum and try to keep it in the dorm; some a$$hole will knock it off the table and break the bowl. Why yes, I _do_ still hold a grudge...


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

MarkC said:


> One word of advice from someone who's been there: do NOT buy a nice meerschaum and try to keep it in the dorm; some a$$hole will knock it off the table and break the bowl. Why yes, I _do_ still hold a grudge...


Aw man, that sucks! Sorry that happened. Actually, I'm looking into a specific starter kit that I cannot post because of the thirty post limit. I will describe it.

Savinelli One Starter Kit Smooth (601) (6mm) Pipes at Smoking Pipes dot com.

What do you guys think? It's a $100 clams and comes with...everything I need? Not so sure since I've never smoked one before, but I guess that's what you guys are here for !


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

Parcheezy said:


> Aw man, that sucks! Sorry that happened. Actually, I'm looking into a specific starter kit that I cannot post because of the thirty post limit. I will describe it.
> 
> Savinelli One Starter Kit Smooth (601) (6mm) Pipes at Smoking Pipes dot com.
> 
> What do you guys think? It's a $100 clams and comes with...everything I need? Not so sure since I've never smoked one before, but I guess that's what you guys are here for !


Savinelli One Starter Kit Rusticated (601) (6mm) Pipes at Smoking Pipes .com

TBH, a Savinelli is a decent pipe but you can feel free to pick a different style that's not part of that package for similar money as well.

The filters come with the pipe (if you'll even use them) and sometimes a cloth drawstring bag does too. A *Czech tool* is $2 and *Pipe Cleaners* are $1.12 separately.


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

Yup! That's the one! It comes with all the goodies. 

I'm aware that I can choose different styles, so I browsed every single page; opening new tabs until I found a style that fit me. That happened to be the one! Good purchase for a first timer?


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Looks good to me; I'd add a cob or two as well.


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

MarkC said:


> Looks good to me; I'd add a cob or two as well.


What would be the reason behind having more than one pipe?- since I see most people do.

Also, the pipe I chose is NOT the one in the link, I think it's same model, but mine was the non-rusticated one. It's the 'smooth' not the rusticated. Not too far from that thirty-post threshold!


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## Xodar (Mar 4, 2011)

The most basic reason for having more than one pipe is that the briar absorbs moisture, and using one day in and day out will eventually saturate the briar and make the pipe taste ashy and nasty even with frequent cleanings. Some folks suggest 1 bowl and then rest a pipe a day, but from my own perspective as long as I give a pipe the occasional day or two off I don't have many problems smoking several bowls in one pipe across a day. If you smoke Lakelands or Lat heavy tobaccos they can tend to "ghost" a pipe, leaving some of their strong flavors behind that can be tasted when smoking a different tobacco, so some folks dedicate a pipe to smoking those blends to avoid that.

And cobs of course are the workhorses of the pipe world, they tend to dry out quickly and are a cheap way to fill out your pipe rotation. As long as you run a cleaner regularly and keep the cake scraped down cobs seem to be fine smoking day in and day out.


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

Well I'll be! I didn't research any cob pipes yet, can you guys point in the right direction?


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## NomoMoMo (Feb 19, 2012)

Parcheezy said:


> Well I'll be! I didn't research any cob pipes yet, can you guys point in the right direction?


Missouri Meerschaum are the go to for Corn Cobs. You can find them here at Pipes and Cigars: Missouri Corn Cob and here: 4noggins.com - CORN COB PIPES

As you can see, they are very inexpensive, so you can buy several.


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

Some people have trouble getting over the looks of a cob. However, most are instantly swayed by the quality of smoke you get from one. A lot of us have quite a few on hand. Cobs are great for trying new tobaccos and for guests as well.

Definitely stick to Missouri Meerschaum's and STAY AWAY from the eBay Chinese cobs.


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

I really appreciate the help guys. I got 5 Corn Cobs for less than $20...what a steal. Now for some pipe tobacco. I would do a trade but I don't meet the requirements for the thread. I'll wait a couple more days until then and get the ball rolling!


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## Wiseguy1982 (Nov 17, 2009)

Alright, I finally got some FVF. It sure took long enough.

However, having to wait ages to acquire some left me with high hopes for this blend, and unfortunately, they have been shattered.

I found this first bowl of FVF to be a huge let down. It was virtually flavorless. Smoked like a forest fire though, but seriously lacking any hint of flavor to me.

I let it dry for about an hour, so I don't think that was the problem. Anyone else share this disastrous experience?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Jar it up and forget about it until labor day 2013


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Russ, if you're smoking a Virginia "like a forest fire", you're going to miss out on a lot of the flavor. The trick with Virginias is to take slow sips, keeping the bowl almost on the verge of going out. If you smoke it like a chimney, the flavor just isn't there.


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## Wiseguy1982 (Nov 17, 2009)

Thanks for the tip Mark. I wasn't puffing too hard, or at least I wasn't trying to. It seemed to want to burn. :/


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Both of the above. Straight Virginias really benefit from age, and they really benefit from slow careful smoking.

I'd also add, Russ, that I think your palate might be overwhelmed from all the big bold stuff you've been smoking today . 5 Brothers and Tambolaka earlier, right? (and Pirate Kake? How did you like that one?). You're basically trying to appreciate a soft white wine after downing a double anchovie pizza and a six pack of Guinness :lol:

Then again.....you may just not like FVF. Personally, I can appreciate that it's really fine stuff, but it doesn't really meet up to the hype for me either.


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

So I got my pipe. What kind of tools will I need, and what brand should I be looking at for a good deal...or are they so cheap I don't need to look for a deal?

Edit: I found a FAQ on pipes and cigars about equipment, I'm assuming Savinelli makes a kit since they included it in that deal I was looking at. I'll update this post if I can't find anything.

UPDATE: I guess not, lot of pipe cleaner brands and I'm a little afraid of a bargain here. And the pipe tools....there is so much stuff... I don't know what I'm supposed to be looking for in a good product, even after the FAQ. I'm sorry I gotta ask again, but I need a little direction here so I don't goof up my first pipe experience.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

All you really need is a Czech tool, which as far as I know, is the cheapest thing out there. Your only concern will be misplacing it; it won't wear out. As for pipe cleaners, I go for BJ Longs.


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

MarkC said:


> All you really need is a Czech tool, which as far as I know, is the cheapest thing out there. Your only concern will be misplacing it; it won't wear out. As for pipe cleaners, I go for BJ Longs.


I found reamer tools and czech tools... couldn't find if they were the same thing either. However, I searched both and got this attractive result at an attractive price Czech Pocket or Pouch Tobacco Pipe Reamer Tamper Pokers Tool on eBay!


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## Blue_2 (Jan 25, 2011)

A reamer is to trim back accumulated buildup called cake. Don't worry about one of those yet.

Czech tools and pipe cleaners are cheap, and something I add to orders to get up to free shipping.

Pipe Accessories Czech Pipe Tool Accessories at Smoking Pipes .com

Cleaning Supplies B. J. Long Regular Pipe Cleaners (60 pack) Accessories at Smoking Pipes .com


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

Well. I added what you recommended from the cart, but I need another 12 bucks to fill in. I figure I aughta get me some pipe tobacco. Any recommendations for a first timer. Any "must smoke"s?


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## Wiseguy1982 (Nov 17, 2009)

I vote you try some OTC blends first so you can kinda get a feel for what smoking a pipe is like. Try some Carter Hall or Prince Albert, or if you want some interesting flavor, maybe some Captain Black Royal.


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

Wiseguy1982 said:


> I vote you try some OTC blends first so you can kinda get a feel for what smoking a pipe is like. Try some Carter Hall or Prince Albert, or if you want some interesting flavor, maybe some Captain Black Royal.


All I see on smokingpipes is the Captain Black Royal. I'll get some of that but I need something else too to get my eggs in other baskets.


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## Wiseguy1982 (Nov 17, 2009)

All Time Favorites

Most of these are also available on smokingpipes, but this has them all together for your viewing pleasure.


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## Parcheezy (Jul 11, 2012)

Thank you friend. I appreciate the recommendations! Now off to order me some of the good stuff


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## Wiseguy1982 (Nov 17, 2009)

Does anyone here know how a comparison between Walnut and Revelation would pan out?


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Never tried Revelation but Walnut is a good OTC.

My review here... http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/pipe-related-reviews/288356-middletons-walnut.html


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## Wiseguy1982 (Nov 17, 2009)

DSturg369 said:


> Never tried Revelation but Walnut is a good OTC.
> 
> My review here... http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/pipe-related-reviews/288356-middletons-walnut.html


Thanks bro! I am really looking forward to trying this.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Wiseguy1982 said:


> Thanks bro! I am really looking forward to trying this.


And well you should! :tu


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## Wiseguy1982 (Nov 17, 2009)

Now if I can only manage to wait until money is better, lol.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

I'm having some problems with a cheapo pipe I have. It was an ok smoker until these popped up. Please help. :frown:

1) The mouthpiece/bit is usually one-piece right? Not so with this one. I took it off one day for cleaning and the little tube-insert thingy came out. How can I fix it? Can I use super-glue or plastic cement (that actually melts the plastic a bit to form the bond) type thing on this part? The bit is plastic most probably...

















2) The same pipe's bowl is developing a crack. Any solutions??


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

Unless it has sentimental value, I say drop that pipe and get another. A MM cod or 3 or maybe a Dr Grabow if Briar is a "must have". Aside from a funky stem, that crack will only get worse.


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## CaptainEnormous (Sep 30, 2010)

The stem/tenon issue (tenon is the "little tube-insert thingy") is fixable.
It looks like this is either originally a Delrin tenon, or a replacement tenon. 
In either case, a hole corresponding to the tenon diameter is drilled. Then the tenon is roughed up, as is the inside of the hole, to create a better surface area. Then the tenon is glued into place using non-toxic epoxy.
Once the epoxy sets, you just drill out the draft hole, which gets rid of any excess, dried epoxy.

So, to re-insert the tenon, you just need to:
- pick up some simple epoxy, re-rough up the tenon and the inside of the stem, and re-glue.
- run a drill bit through the draft hole to get rid of any excess epoxy once it dries.

As for the crack on the rim. . .Dale is right: you can't really repair it, and it'll only get worse over time.
But if you keep your bowl well reamed (every 20 smokes or so), it should keep the crack in check.

All-in-all, yeah, unless this is a sentimental pipe, it may not be worth the effort.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Thanks Dale and Dave. Yeah it's got no sentimental value (except the 20ish bucks :smile: ) so it's just gonna go to the useless-stuff-I-keep-just-in-case drawer...

And thanks for naming it Dale. Other than tobacco chamber and bit, I keep forgetting the names of the pipe anatomy :frown:


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## Lord Wigglybottom (Sep 19, 2008)

So something really weird happened with my smoke last night- I'm assuming this just has a short answer so I didn't think it was worth starting a whole new thread over...

My pipe made noise. It wasn't gurgle- in fact it happened regardless of whether I was puffing or not. The best way to describe the sound is it was sort of like one of those sparklers they used to have when I was a kid. Sort of a sizzling noise. Really weird. The smoke wasn't hot, there was no change in taste, no bite...but this constant steady sizzling noise that went on from about 10 minutes into the bowl right through to the end (about 40 min - it was only about a half-bowl). Afterwards when I cleaned it out I checked the bowl and there were no scorch marks or anything. Poked through the ash and there was nothing unusual there...

This ever happen to anyone else?

And if it has any bearing on the situation, it was MacBaren Plumcake in a medico brylon...


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

Lord Wigglybottom said:


> So something really weird happened with my smoke last night- I'm assuming this just has a short answer so I didn't think it was worth starting a whole new thread over...
> 
> My pipe made noise. It wasn't gurgle- in fact it happened regardless of whether I was puffing or not. The best way to describe the sound is it was sort of like one of those sparklers they used to have when I was a kid. Sort of a sizzling noise. Really weird. The smoke wasn't hot, there was no change in taste, no bite...but this constant steady sizzling noise that went on from about 10 minutes into the bowl right through to the end (about 40 min - it was only about a half-bowl). Afterwards when I cleaned it out I checked the bowl and there were no scorch marks or anything. Poked through the ash and there was nothing unusual there...
> 
> ...


I've had that. Fairly common, actually. I assume it is from the coal reaching some condensed moisture. Kinda like flicking a few drops of water onto a hot skillet. This is just a guess, though.


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## mikebjrtx (May 21, 2012)

Yes I have heard it, sounds like a drop of water in a hot skillet to me. It's just condensation boiling off under the ember. I usually just let it go if it isn't affecting the quality of the smoke. I notice it most often on blends that char a lot before burning (if you dump a half smoked bowl there would be a layer of ash then a thicker than normal layer of black charred tobacco then the unburned tobacco at the bottom) I think the sizzle is coming from the charred layer because as I get to the bottom of the bowl the smoke cooler and creamier than usual. I just don't think this charred layer reabsorbs the water vapor the way fresh tobacco will.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Two quick questions gents:

1) I got a few SG tins today. Almost all of them have *light, little *rust spots on the edges of the lids. Is it OK? I mean is the tobacco safe? Also, how long will the tobacco stay well in these rectangular tins?* They are sealed* alright.

2) I'm having trouble with Erinmore Flake. I've tried fold-n-stuff and rubbing out to various levels of roughness. Not much luck so far. Any pointers? I haven't tried musket-balling; I think it is too small for that as the fold-n-stuff essentially becomes break-n-stuff...

:help:


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## DSturg369 (Apr 6, 2008)

1) I got a few SG tins today. Almost all of them have light rust spots on the edges of the lids. Is it OK? I mean is the tobacco safe. Also, how long will the tobacco stay well in these sealed rectangular tins?

Nearly all to entirely all SG tinned tobacco is very moist. I've cracked more than one tin with rust on the inside as well. Safest option it to open and jar the contents and dry to your liking prior to smoking.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

Jogi said:


> ...
> 2) I'm having trouble with Erinmore Flake. I've tried fold-n-stuff and rubbing out to various levels of roughness. Not much luck so far. Any pointers? I haven't tried musket-balling; I think it is too small for that as the fold-n-stuff essentially becomes break-n-stuff...
> 
> :help:


Ah, good old Erinmore Flake, the Juicy Fruit of pipe tobacco. Me, I love the stuff and smoke it often. And it has practically nothing in common, nothing good anyhow, with Erinmore Mixture.

The flake is quite aromatic and very moist fresh from the tin. It needs some drying out and rubbing out if it is going to smoke well AND remain scented for very long. The tin contents will dry out pretty fast once you pop the lid; I'd suggest moving it immediately to a small glass jar if you don't plan to smoke all the tin's contents within 7-10 days. Either way, select you a flake or two or three as your pipe demands and break them up and set them aside for at least 30-minutes drying time.

Fold and stuff with this flake is not for rookies. Best to rub this flake out thoroughly rather than cram-jam; it expands quite a bit and will plug up a pipe in New York minute. It can also be hard to light from the get-go and tends to terminate at the bottom of the bowl as hard, unsmoked chunks. Rubbing out, drying a bit, smoking slow not over compressing the tabak in the chamber is your ticket.

Perfection for me tends to be springy and not too moist. Too wet and it's a nuisance to keep lit; too dry and that lovely scent ambles off into oblivion.

Hope this helps.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Mister Moo said:


> ...The flake is quite aromatic and very moist fresh from the tin. It needs some drying out and rubbing out if it is going to smoke well AND remain scented for very long. The tin contents will dry out pretty fast once you pop the lid; I'd suggest moving it immediately to a small glass jar if you don't plan to smoke all the tin's contents within 7-10 days...


Thanks Dan, that sure was helpful. My last attempt at EF was with rubbing out. It was better than previous attempts but still had a lot of room for improvement. Surprisingly, my EF wasn't too moist straight out the tin, and I didn't learn until quite recently that opened rectangular tins aren't very good at holding a seal... :frown: Even then, I'm happy to say that the flakes are still a *long* way from being so dry as to crumble on their own. I'll put them in a jar now though...

And thank you too, Dale. You my good sir, are almost always the first person to respond very helpfully to my (annoyingly) noob questions... Now only if I knew how to RG bump... :frown:


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## adeadmanrising (Oct 9, 2012)

Can you give me a good definition of what "gurgle" is? I suppose it is rather self-evident. Also, what does it mean for a pipe to smoke wet?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

If the tobacco is too wet, or the pipe is drilled poorly moisture can build up, usually on the end of the tenon. When that's the case the airflow is not smooth, and you get a gurgle. Running a pipe cleaner down through the stem soaks up the moisture and fixes thing temporarily.


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Jogi said:


> Now only if I knew how to RG bump... :frown:


Click on the little star in the bottom left of their post.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Commander Quan said:


> Click on the little star in the bottom left of their post.


Done. A little bump for you too :nod:


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## Fraze (Sep 19, 2012)

I'm sure this is covered somewhere but I'll ask anyway.

I see people posting quite frequently about Dr. Grabow pipes. These seem to be some of the few available at my local B&M's and I assumed that they must be poor quality because pretty much all of the tobacco there is too.

Are these good pipes? Is there a certain model that is good and others aren't? And maybe the worst question of all, what classification are these pipes? I know their not cob's obviously, but are they Briars? The only reason I ask is because of the premise I'm going off of that everything pipe related at my B&M's are junk, and they have these "fake" looking Briars that I think are plastic.


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

There's nothing wrong with Grabows. They are machine made pipes, and most contain a fair number of fills, but that doesn't affect the smoking properties of the pipe. The chambers tend to be smaller than normal, but that just means they won't hold as much tobacco at one time. Grabows are made from the root of the heath tree so they are briar pipes. My first pipe was a Grabow, it still occasionally finds it's way into my rotation.


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## Fraze (Sep 19, 2012)

Commander Quan said:


> There's nothing wrong with Grabows. They are machine made pipes, and most contain a fair number of fills, but that doesn't affect the smoking properties of the pipe. The chambers tend to be smaller than normal, but that just means they won't hold as much tobacco at one time. Grabows are made from the root of the heath tree so they are briar pipes. My first pipe was a Grabow, it still occasionally finds it's way into my rotation.


Sounds like it could be a good starter for me.

What about breaking in? Is it the same as other briars? (never done it, but I'm pretty certain I've seen a thread on it)


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## gahdzila (Apr 29, 2010)

One guy here owns several older Dr Grabows, I just bought a bunch of new ones, and another guy just bought a couple of estates. So, yeah, I guess there has been a lot of DG chatter lately. We're a fickle bunch - not too long ago, we were all singing the praises of cobs...next week, some other shiney object will likely catch our...OH, LOOK! A BUNNY!!!!

Like Derrick said, they are machine made, and often have fills. They are inexpensive, but I wouldn't call them cheap pipes. Every one I have is a GREAT smoker and drilled perfectly. And they're made right here in the good old U S of A. Some of them are small...but some aren't - I'd say my Royaltons are a solid medium, and my Big Pipes are...well...they're big  Not gigantic, I have a couple of larger pipes, but they're certainly not small. Yes, they are briar, and you break them in like any other briar. The new ones are all filter pipes, but you don't have to use a filter if you choose not to (I never use filters).

Personally, I think cobs are the perfect beginner pipe. But a Dr Grabow is a great starter pipe, too!


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## Fraze (Sep 19, 2012)

My Diplomats have been working great, and I'm glad that I went with that advice.

I'm trying to decide which way to go when I go to briars, and I'm thinking that might be a good way to start and learn how to break in and such before I buy a more pricey option.


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## Fraze (Sep 19, 2012)

Ok so the issue I'm coming across more now that I am smoking more often is, the bowl tends to burn really well for the the first "half", and then when it is about 50% gone, it tends to get really light, and go out.
Then I re-light, but it burns hot from that point on, and I get gurgle.

Any tips?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

It sounds like either;
1. you're tobacco is too moist, and the bottom portion is collecting excess moisture while you smoke
2. you're being a little to liberal with your tamping privileges and compressing the lower portion of the tobacco
3. a combination of both


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## commonsenseman (Apr 18, 2008)

Agree with ^^^

If you're in the middle of a bowl & you find this happening, you could always run a pipe cleaner down the stem, or just set it down for a little while to dry out.


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## Fraze (Sep 19, 2012)

The last 2 bowls I ran through my Irwin I was not able to dry out before smoking, so that could be it.


Are you saying that I may be over tamping the bottom half of the bowl?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

When you tamp you should only be compacting the top layer of ash. If you press too hard and press through the layer of ash and compact the loose layer of tobacco at the bottom it can be hard to keep lit, and you'll over puff trying to keep it lit.


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## Fraze (Sep 19, 2012)

Ok, I thought you were talking about the original packing of the pipe.

Or maybe you're talking about both?


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

If the pipe burns fine through the first half, your initial filling is probably good. If it's at the halfway point when trouble starts that suggest the tamping while smoking has created an issue, or you're getting excess moisture. Running a pipe cleaner down through the stem and into the bowl when this happens can help both issues.


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## Fraze (Sep 19, 2012)

I haven't been tamping much during the smoke for fear of that, but I'll keep better eye on it.


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## pipe30 (Dec 5, 2012)

Here is a question... If I were looking for a new pipe or even a good condition estate pipe, where are some places to look? I know of some pipe shops here but didn't know if there were good places to look online as well.


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Smokingpipes.com
pipesandcigars.com
4noggins.com
marscigars.com
jrcigars.com
iwanries.com


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

And http://www.pulversbriar.com/.


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## jlaumans (Jan 13, 2013)

Hi everyone,

This is my first time on this forum and I know nothing about lighters. However...

I came across an interesting lighter today while cleaning up my house, and started doing some research. It seems to be a IM Corona Pipemaster, but I haven't been able to find any exactly like it on the internet. I was hoping you all could help tell me more about it.





















I'll be grateful for any help at all 

Cheers!


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Got a question, but first some background...

Got an OLD pouch of ODGEN's St. Bruno today, which automatically means it's a bit old. The plastic pouch is all yellowed and the inside and the inner pouch were both quite kinda oily. So I think it's got some 'age' on it. The baccy is quite dry, almost ready to smoke and has a nice thick oily peaty smell....

Now the question, how do you define 'stale' tobacco? More than once, we've seen people saying that the pouch was very old and the baccy was stale. How can I identify the tobacco as stale or usable?? Is it the smell, or is it the appearence of mold etc that makes the tobacco stale?? 

If the baccy is usable, I'm gonna pick up the whole box of 5 pouches...


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Jogi said:


> The baccy is quite dry, *almost ready to smoke* and has a nice thick oily peaty smell....


I fail to see a problem here. :lol:

I'd put whatever you obtain in jars. If you feel like it needs re-hydrating, just toss a little square of damp paper towel in there for a few hours and see how it goes. How bad can it be? :smile:


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Newbie's confusion jim, nothing else. Ready to smoke according to my inexperienced self. Basicallyi want to learnwhat are the telltale signa of stale pouch?? I've opened a sealed pouch of BR to find mold, clearly stale. Other than that, how can I be able to idetify a stale pouch as such?? Hope I've been able to communicate my question better this time... :redface:


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

freestoke said:


> I fail to see a problem here. :lol:
> 
> I'd put whatever you obtain in jars. If you feel like it needs re-hydrating, just toss a little square of damp paper towel in there for a few hours and see how it goes. How bad can it be? :smile:


Thanks, I'll sure give this a try... my stupid tablet wasn't showing your full post, from lol onwards,:smile: hence the previous post. Hope you don't mind. However, please do answer the question in that one too...

Thanks again, that was FAST


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Jogi said:


> Thanks, I'll sure give this a try... my stupid tablet wasn't showing your full post, from lol onwards,:smile: hence the previous post. Hope you don't mind. However, please do answer the question in that one too...
> 
> Thanks again, that was FAST


Might have caught me adding an edit.  But mold isn't normally a product of going stale, which to me means drying out. Aromatics lose a lot of umbladee, so when they go stale they are very bland, even after re-hydrating. That St. Bruno's won't have the snap it once did, but I would that that it would still smoke pretty nice. As long as it doesn't easily crumble into powder, it's certainly smokable. I like it a little more flexible than that, but too dry is not as big a problem as too wet, in the main. If you like it, get the rest! :tu


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Whenever I smoke one of my cobs, I feel that they have too open a draw. It's almost like breathing normally, whereas briar pipes usually offer a bit of restriction due to the narrower airways. So, in an attempt to obtain the same feeling in the draw as a briar, I usually end up packing the cob a bit too tight, leading to a wetter, hotter smoke that needs more relights. What can I do to improve the situation?? :help:


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## dgerwin11 (Jun 19, 2011)

If you use a filter, you don't have many choices. If yo discard the filters there are a couple of cheap fixes and a couple of not cheap fixes. Some people cut a pipe cleaner in half, fold it into V shape and insert that in the place of a filter. You can also get some 6mm plastic tubing to fit into the stem as a restrictod tube. Less cheap: Walker ForEver stems or a DGE cob mod.


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## TTecheTTe (Jun 10, 2012)

Okay, I know that baccy in a can-type "tin" (like C&D) can be held longer (not long-term, of course) by doubling over a sheet of aluminum foil, placing it over the can and pressing the cap on it.

What about regular tins?


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

TTecheTTe said:


> What about regular tins?


As long as the seal holds and the "vacuum doesn't leak out", they're fine. I've never had a vacuum-sealed tin fail, but I'm sure they do. (Then again, I don't have any tins older than two years. I'd imagine the older they get the dicier it becomes.) Check 'em once in a while and transfer the defective ones to jars.


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## TTecheTTe (Jun 10, 2012)

freestoke said:


> As long as the seal holds and the "vacuum doesn't leak out", they're fine. I've never had a vacuum-sealed tin fail, but I'm sure they do. (Then again, I don't have any tins older than two years. I'd imagine the older they get the dicier it becomes.) Check 'em once in a while and transfer the defective ones to jars.


Sorry, guess I should have said "opened" tins...


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

TTecheTTe said:


> Sorry, guess I should have said "opened" tins...


Jars. Tins with metal lids don't do much to keep things fresh after they've been opened. Depends on how fast you plan on emptying it, I suppose, but I transfer everything to jars pretty much immediately after opening.


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## steinr1 (Oct 22, 2010)

freestoke said:


> As long as the seal holds and the "vacuum doesn't leak out", they're fine. I've never had a vacuum-sealed tin fail, but I'm sure they do. (Then again, I don't have any tins older than two years. I'd imagine the older they get the dicier it becomes.) Check 'em once in a while and transfer the defective ones to jars.


I'm now very careful in storage of tins. I traveled with an unopened tin of Rattray's Red Rappareee amongst others and the smell of the Latakia was quite obvious in the box I had them in. The seal was still fully intact. I now store Latakia and aromatics away from each other and anything else. I've not noticed problems with rubber sealed jars.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

freestoke said:


> Jars. Tins with metal lids don't do much to keep things fresh after they've been opened. Depends on how fast you plan on emptying it, I suppose, but I transfer everything to jars pretty much immediately after opening.


I usually wait a couple of weeks to allow a little drying, then jar. Saves time later. Of course, if the tin doesn't last for more than two weeks, forget it...


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## shakinghorizons (Aug 10, 2012)

Old thread, but figured I would revive this one instead of posting a new thread.

My question - I have 12, pint sized jars for storing my pipe tobacco. I currently only have "samples" (2-3 bowls) in ziplock bags, but have more than 12 samples. Is it okay to put more than one sealed ziplock per jar? I just don't have the room right now for more than 12 jars.


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

That's fine. Try to put tobaccos that smell similar together.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

Commander Quan said:


> That's fine. Try to put tobaccos that smell similar together.


Yep, I do it all the time too. The plastic bags will "leak" a little, so if you put different smelling tobaccos together the flavors and aromas will eventually meld. If you do as Derrick states, you'll be fine.


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## TTecheTTe (Jun 10, 2012)

For stem restoration, would you recommend Walker Briar Works Stem Repair Kit? 

Robert had recommended T-Cut Automotive cutting compound, but upon looking online it appears to be available only from the UK. Found some very old McGuires Scratch X compound in the garage, which I gave a go without success. It also imparted a strong odor onto the stem, so am leery of even attempting to select an alternate compound.

Would you recommended pulling the trigger on the WBW kit, or is there something cheaper/better you can suggest? 

Thank you!


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

Have you tried anything yet? I've gotten PDG results with a combination of an oxiclean soak, Mr Clean Magic Eraser, toothpaste, and then polish with coconut oil.


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## DanR (Nov 27, 2010)

TTecheTTe said:


> For stem restoration, would you recommend Walker Briar Works Stem Repair Kit?
> 
> Robert had recommended T-Cut Automotive cutting compound, but upon looking online it appears to be available only from the UK. Found some very old McGuires Scratch X compound in the garage, which I gave a go without success. It also imparted a strong odor onto the stem, so am leery of even attempting to select an alternate compound.
> 
> ...


I use toothpaste, then once the yellow grime is gone I use this pipe stem oil (from smokingpipes.com). It's awesome! Stems really shine up nicely.


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## TTecheTTe (Jun 10, 2012)

Commander Quan said:


> Have you tried anything yet? I've gotten PDG results with a combination of an oxiclean soak, Mr Clean Magic Eraser, toothpaste, and then polish with coconut oil.





DanR said:


> I use toothpaste, then once the yellow grime is gone I use this pipe stem oil (from smokingpipes.com). It's awesome! Stems really shine up nicely. ]


Thanks! I did try Crest, and it helped. I read about Bar Keepers Friend, and as I had some I tried it today with better results and finished with EVOO.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Much as I hate the abbreviation EVOO, that's my choice to finish off a stem as well.

One of these days, I have GOT to try the Walker Briar Works cleaner. My pipes rarely get cavities, and I don't like that minty-fresh feel...


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## TTecheTTe (Jun 10, 2012)

MarkC said:


> Much as I hate the abbreviation EVOO, that's my choice to finish off a stem as well.
> 
> One of these days, I have GOT to try the Walker Briar Works cleaner. My pipes rarely get cavities, and I don't like that minty-fresh feel...


So, do I; of, first cold pressed. Will let you know about WBW.


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## Mister Moo (Sep 8, 2005)

TTecheTTe said:


> For stem restoration, would you recommend Walker Briar Works Stem Repair Kit?
> 
> Robert had recommended T-Cut Automotive cutting compound, but upon looking online it appears to be available only from the UK. Found some very old McGuires Scratch X compound in the garage, which I gave a go without success. It also imparted a strong odor onto the stem, so am leery of even attempting to select an alternate compound.
> 
> ...


Lots of ways to improve stem appearance/taste without power equipment. Many mentioned above. For my money (and time), however, I don't think MicroMesh polishing cloth can be beat. Get a sampler package with grits 1200-12,000 and you can turn a green, nasty stem into mirror wet-black in about 30 minutes. The OxyKleen presoak doesn't hurt, either.

Review thread "Diamonds from Coal" and learn a lot about restoration methods.

MMoo


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## shakinghorizons (Aug 10, 2012)

Did I categories all of these correctly??

*LATAKIA*
Samuel Gawith - Squadron Leader
C&D - Billy Budd
Peter Stokkebye - Proper English

*AROMATIC*
Bull Run
Peter Stokkebye - Cherry

*VIRGINIA*
Lane - 1Q
Dunhill - Royal Yacht
Gawith & Hogarth - Kendal Kentucky
Esoterica - Penzance
Orlik - Golden Sliced
Samuel Gawith - 1792 Flake

*BURLEY*
Lane LTD - RLP-6
Walnut - Light English
Lane Limited - BLWB - Burley Light Without Bite
Peter Stokkebye - Cube Cut
MacBaren - Navy Flake
MacBaren - HH Old Dark Fired


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## Sniper2075 (Jan 26, 2007)

Not sure about them all but Esoterica Penzance is a Latakia blend, it does have Virginias but so do a lot of Latakia blends



shakinghorizons said:


> Did I categories all of these correctly??
> 
> *LATAKIA*
> Samuel Gawith - Squadron Leader
> ...


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## Desertlifter (Feb 22, 2011)

Sniper2075 said:


> Not sure about them all but Esoterica Penzance is a Latakia blend, it does have Virginias but so do a lot of Latakia blends


Lane 1-Q is an aromatic...


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Desertlifter said:


> Lane 1-Q is an aromatic...


So's the RLP-6, I think.


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## steinr1 (Oct 22, 2010)

I think the point here is storing of baggie samples, not dedicating a pipe to a style (although the same "rules" apply). With that in mind, the thing to do is to stick your nose in the bag and sniff (inwards). 

If you smell Latakia (easily identified after first smelled) - It's "English" or Balkan or some such and belongs in that pile.

If you smell vanilla or some other obvious strong, usually sweet, flavouring - It's an aromatic and in that pile it goes.

None of the above? Light in colour and smell? - Into a different pile. 

As above but dark? Pile 4.

Smells like a French whore's boudoir? - It's Ennerdale Flake and needs to be quarantined separately. 

Anything that smells very stong and "different" (like 1792 Flake) is best quarantined.

Aromatics in particular may tend to meld if stored together. A lot of their aromas are volatiles added as a topping at the end of the processing. As such they are, well, volatile and will tend to affect other tobaccos in the same jar.

No magic or right answers to be had. If it smells and to an extent, looks the same as your other samples, then you can store them together for a time. They WILL "infect" each other; the similarities help in making sure that the result will not be repulsive.

Just my twopennyworth...


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

steinr1 said:


> Smells like a French whore's boudoir? - It's Ennerdale Flake and needs to be quarantined separately....
> 
> Just my twopennyworth...


Rather a good system, Robert! :tu Well worth a thrupney bit, if you ask me.
*
Ennerdale * ainkiller: cannot be contained by a baggie and should be kept in a lead-lined mason jar. A single baggie of Ennerdale will contaminate 2000 sq. ft. of floorspace. Carrying a baggie or pouch of Ennerdale in public requires dedicated clothing to go with the dedicated pipe and one needs to learn to deal civilly with solicitations for dalliance from passing crossdressers. (Said clothing should be kept in nuclear waste containers in a garage or shed.)


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## steinr1 (Oct 22, 2010)

freestoke said:


> Well worth a thrupney bit, if you ask me.


Oh good. I like trupenny bits, me. Only in pairs, mind. Singles are a bit strange.

(My mate, a Commander in HM's RN, is able to point out the single in a painting hung in the Greenwich Naval College, which contains something over a hundred - I think - pairs... It's a skill.)


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## shakinghorizons (Aug 10, 2012)

Thanks for the input gentlemen!


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

steinr1 said:


> Oh good. I like trupenny bits, me. Only in pairs, mind. Singles are a bit strange.
> 
> (My mate, a Commander in HM's RN, is able to point out the single in a painting hung in the Greenwich Naval College, which contains something over a hundred - I think - pairs... It's a skill.)


I kinda liked 'em. Round coins are so ordinary.


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## Badmagic. (Feb 11, 2014)

*Q: In regards to long and short term storage jars.*

I have to start initially by apologizing for beating the horse, its long dead and it didn't do anything to deserve it but I just wanted to clarify some issues I have not directly read about through searching, if the detail I'm looking for is already discussed in depth and I'm simply overlooking it I'm sorry.

Now, to the point. From what I understand from previous discussions I have been reading for a standard UK 50g pack of tobacco (_1.76oz / 52ml approx_) it's usually (_read as often_) suggested to aim for a 8oz (_227g / 237ml approx_) capacity jar to fill with little room to spare, now these numbers do not add up to me but from my own conjecture I'm left to presume this is just down to the tobacco itself not being compacted too much and being allowed to expand a little to "fill" the jar, figuratively speaking so its neither crushed nor too loose.

Now, I have to say I'm very new to pipe tobacco and am much more familiar with cigarette tobacco so my guesses and presumptions may be completely off. This said so far I'm finding I am a bit of a flavour hound, mainly derived from my wanting to try as many new and interesting blends as I can to find my personal staples but tempered by not wanting to open too many pouches or tins simultaneously in fear of them losing too much moisture/flavour over time while I'm off trying the next blend.

Now, thinking on this my current idea for a solution to limiting how much I have "open" at a time to both long and short term storage would be to use 4oz (_113g / 118ml approx_) jars. The thinking behind this is where the contents is small and runs out more frequently I can always just open another jar but frequently opening a larger jar to "top up" compromises the contents regardless of capacity.

Additionally, if it's a longer term storage with smaller pack sizes I would be running less of a risk to bulk being powdered by bad seals.

Anyway, this is really just a query I'm running by those more familiar with storage routines in regards to flaws in my presumptions and guesswork and any oversights I may have due to my inexperience.

Hopefully some of you will be able to shed more light on the subject and thanks for your time in reading.

Postscript: To clarify further, I'm able to get a quantity of 60 wide necked 4oz screw top jars (_standard sized lids_) at a good price (_where US imports cost two to three times more depending on source_) but am unable to get a lesser quantity to try before committing to the larger quantity.

Also, just to confirm, retailers/etailiers in the UK do list ounces as capacities in some cases but I am yet to see any that clarify US or UK, they are different, not by much but by enough to notice when talking of 4+ ounces capacities, for example.

1oz US = 0.96 UK
4oz US = 3.84 UK
8oz US = 7.68 UK​
As I say, not much but it adds up when discussing what capacity A "fits" into what capacity B.


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## Branzig (Jul 14, 2013)

*Re: Q: In regards to long and short term storage jars.*



Badmagic. said:


> As I say, not much but it adds up when discussing what capacity A "fits" into what capacity B.


Wow, you did a lot of extreme analytics in that post. Or over-thinking, depending on how you want to look at it :lol:

I just buy the 8oz jars for my tin storage because I find it to fit perfectly. Then I leave 2-3 bowls worth of the tobacco I want to smoke in the tin to dry properly and be "ready to smoke." You could do the multiple 4oz jars...but then I don't see a great solution to have any smoke ready stock on hand unless you plan on "power" drying everything...and if you wanted to do that, you could just leave it all in an 8oz jars regardless...

If I am buying bulk, I use pint jars.

I would use the KISS principal whenever possible in the land of pipe tobacco.

Just my 2 cents worth.


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## Commander Quan (May 6, 2003)

The tobacco is measured by weight (grams/ounces) the jars are measured in liquid ounces so that's where the disconnect is. A good rule of thumb is 1 standard 50gr/2oz tin per 8 oz jar. 

I have never had any issues with tobacco drying or loosing anything from being opened repeatedly while in a smoking rotation, even if the jars are in that rotation for years.


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## freestoke (Feb 13, 2011)

Commander Quan said:


> The tobacco is measured by weight (grams/ounces) the jars are measured in liquid ounces so that's where the disconnect is. A good rule of thumb is 1 standard 50gr/2oz tin per 8 oz jar.
> 
> I have never had any issues with tobacco drying or loosing anything from being opened repeatedly while in a smoking rotation, even if the jars are in that rotation for years.


Even packed tightly, there is still a lot of air space with ribbon. With flakes and rope, you can get closer to 3oz in there. And tobacco floats, so it doesn't weigh as much per unit volume. Since there are 25 2g loads in the can, opening it and screwing the lid back on maybe 30 times doesn't really give it much time to dry out.


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## Jogi (Dec 4, 2009)

Hello Puffers,

I'm back once again with my noob question, hope y'all don't mind them  Its strange to see this thread not having seen much action for almost an year!?! I guess I'll be bringing a dead thread back to life :behindsofa:

Now, The Background:

I'll be travelling to China, in Jan most probably, for almost 6 months. I'd like to take as much pipe tobacco as possible with me. The chinese customs dept website says I can carry up to 400g of pipe tobacco into China untaxed. But it also says that rules currently enforced may be different from documented rules depending on the current situation. i'm thinking about carrying at most 200g on myself, and requesting a friend or two to carry a couple tins each for me...

The Question:

Has anyone had any recent experience of carrying pipe tobacco, while travelling to China? ANY help/tips/personal experience would be helpful and appreciated guys.


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## Prozac (Oct 5, 2019)

*Cob pipe bowl notch?*

Ok, I'll bite 

I have a corn cob pipe and noticed in the bowl where it meets the shank, there is a notch like a small chute.
When I clean my bowl it becomes a little bothersome. Are all cob pipes made this way?

I've had a couple of Briar pipes and if I remember correctly, the shank goes straight into the bowl without any notch.
Can you enlighten me?


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## Fusion (Apr 5, 2017)

Prozac said:


> Ok, I'll bite
> 
> I have a corn cob pipe and noticed in the bowl where it meets the shank, there is a notch like a small chute.
> When I clean my bowl it becomes a little bothersome. Are all cob pipes made this way?
> ...


Yea mine are/were like that, it will soon burn away


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## Scap (Nov 27, 2012)

Prozac said:


> Ok, I'll bite
> 
> I have a corn cob pipe and noticed in the bowl where it meets the shank, there is a notch like a small chute.
> When I clean my bowl it becomes a little bothersome. Are all cob pipes made this way?
> ...


I have difficulties burning a bowl down that low, so I help mine with a good sharp chisel.


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## Hickorynut (Jun 26, 2017)

You can also mud the bottom of the bowl with a paste of cigar ash. Google-Foo it, there should be some videos of the process.


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## JohnBrody15 (Mar 20, 2016)

The other day I was using a pipe knife to try and clean the bottom out, and not really paying much attention, I punched right through......I was trying to into the nooks and crannies.


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## Scap (Nov 27, 2012)

JohnBrody15 said:


> The other day I was using a pipe knife to try and clean the bottom out, and not really paying much attention, I punched right through......I was trying to into the nooks and crannies.


Getting into the nooks and crannies shouldn't involve creating them....lol
Hope this was on a cob so you can just drill and plug it.


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## JohnBrody15 (Mar 20, 2016)

Scap said:


> Getting into the nooks and crannies shouldn't involve creating them....lol
> Hope this was on a cob so you can just drill and plug it.


It was on a cob so it had that wooden thing on the bottom and I was trying to dig out the tobacco stuck in there. I ended up tossing it.


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## Scap (Nov 27, 2012)

JohnBrody15 said:


> It was on a cob so it had that wooden thing on the bottom and I was trying to dig out the tobacco stuck in there. I ended up tossing it.


Dang, you didn't have to do that...


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## JohnBrody15 (Mar 20, 2016)

Scap said:


> Dang, you didn't have to do that...


You mentioned drilling and plugging it. I searched it up, there's a good video showing how to do this. The guy uses cork and pipe mud. Hopefully there won't be a next time, but I might try this if it happens again.


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## OneStrangeOne (Sep 10, 2016)

JohnBrody15 said:


> You mentioned drilling and plugging it. I searched it up, there's a good video showing how to do this. The guy uses cork and pipe mud. Hopefully there won't be a next time, but I might try this if it happens again.


I'm not sure about cork, I would think that it would add a little something to the flavor profile? I know that you can use a hardwood dowel and Elmer's glue. 
I muddled the bottom of several of my cobs when they were new just because I didn't like the idea of Dottle having a permanent home in the bottom of my pipe and it looked like it would be a PITA to dig out. I haven't bothered with it on the last couple.


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## Scap (Nov 27, 2012)

JohnBrody15 said:


> You mentioned drilling and plugging it. I searched it up, there's a good video showing how to do this. The guy uses cork and pipe mud. Hopefully there won't be a next time, but I might try this if it happens again.


Actually, you can glue in a piece of hardwood dowel rod.


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## Adarus21 (Oct 20, 2019)

Ok so I have not smoked a pipe before and am looking into trying it. I watched a tutorial on youtube a year or so ago and noticed the guy doing something that i havent read anyone mention yet. I saw him covering the bowl of the pipe with his fingers a bit while he was taking a puff. Was that to restrict the amount of air entering the pipe or is there something else at play with that?


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## OneStrangeOne (Sep 10, 2016)

Adarus21 said:


> Ok so I have not smoked a pipe before and am looking into trying it. I watched a tutorial on youtube a year or so ago and noticed the guy doing something that i havent read anyone mention yet. I saw him covering the bowl of the pipe with his fingers a bit while he was taking a puff. Was that to restrict the amount of air entering the pipe or is there something else at play with that?


Yeah, it restricts the amount of air and increases the speed of the air hitting the cherry, you do the same thing with a tamper. If you're ember is starting to die out this can help get it going again. You want to be careful because this can overheat a bowl quickly, with a tamper you can also control the direction of the ember as well as the size of it.


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