# Wineador condensation



## JIK (Sep 4, 2014)

So I recently bought a Newair 280 for a wineador build. Been running for the last two weeks with some baking soda in it. The temperature has been rock solid at 65 the entire time. However my humidity seems to be on the high side. Yesterday I plugged the drain hole (right underneath the interior fan) with some electrical tape because I heard that helps. This morning however my humidity was at 82% and there was a small puddle of water over the drain hole. Is this normal? Any remedies? I should mention that I also have about two pounds of hf beads near the bottom. They were charged as per the instructions. Should I dry them out and let them absorb some of the humidity in the wineador? If the fan keeps producing water won't the beads get overly saturated eventually? I am on John Nelson's books for some custom drawers but they won't be here till the end of Nov.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!


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## Drez_ (Jan 30, 2014)

I'd dry out the beads and spread them out across the various shelves. See if they can lower the humidity and regulate it to your desired RH, and get rid of the condensation in the process..

I've not had any problems with condensation in mine..and I keep it running around the 60 degree range, so I'm not really sure what's causing your condensation to form so badly.. What's the ambient temperature there? Is the cooler running constantly to try and reach the set temperature?


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## imported_mark_j (Aug 18, 2013)

JIK said:


> So I recently bought a Newair 280 for a wineador build. Been running for the last two weeks with some baking soda in it. The temperature has been rock solid at 65 the entire time. However my humidity seems to be on the high side. Yesterday I plugged the drain hole (right underneath the interior fan) with some electrical tape because I heard that helps. This morning however my humidity was at 82% and there was a small puddle of water over the drain hole. Is this normal? Any remedies? I should mention that I also have about two pounds of hf beads near the bottom. They were charged as per the instructions. Should I dry them out and let them absorb some of the humidity in the wineador? If the fan keeps producing water won't the beads get overly saturated eventually? I am on John Nelson's books for some custom drawers but they won't be here till the end of Nov.
> 
> Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!


Definitely dry those beads. Never charge them unless you have a low humidity problem....always leave them dry at first until you know for sure. I've been running my NA 281 since March or April with two pounds of beads and they've never needed attention. 66 degrees and 64%-66% constant. Amazing, really.


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

Your in Miami and will always battle high humidity.

You simply had too much humidity in the humidor from the hole and excess moisture in the beads.The beads didn't need to be charged and is very bad advice to begin with. Never add additional moisture. This happens time and time again.
Dry the beads and try again.


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## JIK (Sep 4, 2014)

Thanks for the the help guys, will dry the beads out ASAP.


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## maverickmage (Feb 10, 2008)

Also, plugging the drain hole will probably make the situation worse. That drain hole is for condensation to escape. Now the extra humidity has nowhere to go.


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## JustinThyme (Jun 17, 2013)

Firstly are we talking about an empty wineador? If so you will spend all your time chasing a ghost. You need more than just beads in there. Often its not necessary to charge them. The closer it is to full the easier it is to maintain RH.


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## JIK (Sep 4, 2014)

Yes it is empty. Every where I have read that plugging the drain hole is the solution, should it be unplugged?


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

JIK said:


> Yes it is empty. Every where I have read that plugging the drain hole is the solution, should it be unplugged?


No, plug the hole. The enclosure needs to be air tight. Humidity is a problem in Miami. Cover the hole, dry the beads really well and put them back in to absorb the moisture.

If the RH is 60 to 70% or less then you could simply unplug the unit and open the door to dry it out in an air conditioned room.


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## JustinThyme (Jun 17, 2013)

JIK said:


> Yes it is empty. Every where I have read that plugging the drain hole is the solution, should it be unplugged?


Mine has been running about 1.5 years now and the drain was never plugged. I ran my fan wires through it and put a small amount of 70% gel inside a stocking in the catch basin to absorb then release and condensate.

Truthfully at this point any humidification control effort is a pointless venture. There is nothing in there that will absorb it or buffer it other than the beads and the air and you will run yourself crazy trying to stabilize the moisture content of plastic.


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

People who live in N.J. don't experience the humidity that Miami has. Leaving the drain plug open is like leaving a window open in your house.


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## JustinThyme (Jun 17, 2013)

Gdaddy said:


> People who live in N.J. don't experience the humidity that Miami has. Leaving the drain plug open is like leaving a window open in your house.


Sorry Don but that assumption is 100% incorrect. While on the average the humidity there is higher that doesn't mean there are never humid days here. I just looked at my weather monitor and the RH in my back yard is current 79%. Then separate inside from outside, my RH in the house stays at 50% until winter time where I have to humidify it to 40%. Id doubt the OP has his wineador outside in 80 degree temps as we wouldnt be having this conversation as it would run 24x7 and be dry as a bone. None of this matters, the thing with the drain being plugged has been done by others to keep the moisture in, not out. I dont give a rip roarin hairy rats ass how many ways you slice it there is no way that tiny drain hole will overcome the amount of moisture that is removed by the TEC that is turned into condensate and is intended to drain out of the drain hole, they dont call it a humidity hole. Then add to the fact that as soon as you get the slightest bit of water in the tray the hole is closed over like a plumbing p trap.


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

JustinThyme said:


> Sorry Don but that assumption is 100% incorrect. While on the average the humidity there is higher that doesn't mean there are never humid days here. I just looked at my weather monitor and the RH in my back yard is current 79%. Then separate inside from outside, my RH in the house stays at 50% until winter time where I have to humidify it to 40%. Id doubt the OP has his wineador outside in 80 degree temps as we wouldnt be having this conversation as it would run 24x7 and be dry as a bone. None of this matters, the thing with the drain being plugged has been done by others to keep the moisture in, not out. I dont give a rip roarin hairy rats ass how many ways you slice it there is no way that tiny drain hole will overcome the amount of moisture that is removed by the TEC that is turned into condensate and is intended to drain out of the drain hole, they dont call it a humidity hole. Then add to the fact that as soon as you get the slightest bit of water in the tray the hole is closed over like a plumbing p trap.


Really?

Let's use today as an example...

From the national weather service.,,

Princeton N.J. is 75 degrees and 52% humidity
Miami Florida is 86 degrees and 70% humidity

Wow, it's more humid in Miami. Fact.

Rob, my humidor was easy to maintain when I lived in Colt's Neck NJ (not far from you) I had to add moisture in the winter months. Now, living in Florida, I battle rising RH constantly. A drain hole left open certainly does allow humidity to creep in. You want NO influence of outside air no matter how small. After all, a tight lid on a humidor is considered by many to be the most important element and you are saying a drain hole being open doesn't matter? Come on.

Also, there is NO standing water as you suggest. Rob, statements like this make me wonder.


> "the fact that as soon as you get the slightest bit of water in the tray the hole is closed over like a plumbing p trap."


Your facts are not facts. They are your opinion which, with all due respect, is not correct on all points. If closing the drain hole takes a piece of tape and very little effort why not do it right?


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## JustinThyme (Jun 17, 2013)

Gdaddy said:


> Really?
> 
> Let's use today as an example...
> 
> ...


So whats you point on what the national weather service has to say today, they are both NOT humid. In all honesty I give less than a shit what the national weather service has to say. They are not sitting on my back deck where my weather station is but again all of this is a moot point unless you have your sticks sitting outside.

There is standing water if you let it run and there is enough moisture for condensate to build. Whats the title of this thread? Wineador condensation

There will never be enough air to come through that tiny hole to change the humidity in that box. If so it would work the other direction as well. Mine has been in an environment of an average of 50% humidity with the hole open for a year and half and stays bawlz on 65% 66F.

What matter of fact anywhere says that plugging the hole is right and not plugging it is wrong? There is no wineador bible that says you must plug the hole.

If you were talking about a humidor with a leak I would agree with you, however that is not the topic of discussion. Its a wineador where the TEC will pull more moisture out in one cycle and turn it into condensate in 5 minutes than that tiny hole can introduce into it at 99% ambient humidity in a year.

Bottom line for the OP, you will wont be able to regulate your wineador anywhere close to stable while its empty.


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

JustinThyme said:


> So whats you point on what the national weather service has to say today, You implied that you have to deal with humid days too and stated that it's currently 79% rh when, in fact, the rh is 52%. So you're really NOT being affected with high humidity like in Miami that the OP is dealing with. they are both NOT humid. In all honesty I give less than a shit what the national weather service has to say. They are not sitting on my back deck where my weather station is but again all of this is a moot point unless you have your sticks sitting outside.
> 
> There is standing water if you let it run and there is enough moisture for condensate to build. Whats the title of this thread? Wineador condensation
> 
> ...


I hope this helps.


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## JustinThyme (Jun 17, 2013)

:bowdown:
Oh mighty god of the wineadors, I bow down to you! Now we all know what The G is for....You are a GOD!

Let me repeat one more time

YOU CANNOT AND WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET A STABLE MOISTURE CONTENT ON AN EMPTY CHAMBER OF AIR WITH NOTHING BUT PLASTIC!!! YOU WILL CONTINUALLY FIGHT CONDENSATION AND EVAPORATION, ITS COMMON SENSE AND COMMON SCIENCE NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES THE GOD OF WINEADORS SAYS DIFFERENTLY.

This is not a humidor, its a wine cooler. it doesn't become a wineador until you get Spanish cedar and cigars in it. My Eurocave is actually made with an even larger hole in the back (no drain) that has a charcoal filter ON PURPOSE to regulate the humidity in the box and keep it above 60% so the corks in the wine bottles dont dry out.

I offered the advice to fill it because I have already been down this road more than once. As soon as you fill it the RH of the wineador will pretty much immediately take on the RH of your sticks and drawers then its slow swings until you get it stable. I started mine with just beads in it and got the same results you are having. I filled it with empty boxes and it leveled out a little. When I filled it with drawers and filled all the drawers with sticks its at 65% where it has been for the past year and a half requiring me to spritz the beads with water just once.....MY DRAIN HOLE IS OPEN

As for you Gdaddy, I had you on my blocked list for over a year and decided to take you off along with other members over this very same :BS
Do you even own a wineador? Do you have any experience at all with cooling or electronics?

If someone said the sky was blue you would argue that its white. If someone said shit stinks you would argue that it smells like roses. Looks like its time for you to go back to my blocked list.

@OP if you want some advice, feel free to PM me or any other member who has actually has a wineador.


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

JustinThyme said:


> :bowdown:
> Oh mighty god of the wineadors, I bow down to you! Now we all know what The G is for....You are a GOD!
> 
> Let me repeat one more time
> ...


Why the anger? You sound like a frustrated child who's not getting their way.

Everyone knows (except you) that open holes in a humidor are not good. You don't see it as a problem. Fine.

If you put normal cigars in a humidor that's 82% humidity the RH will drop because the cigars are absorbing the excess moisture bringing the level down. They act like a sponge and this is NOT what you want to do. Get the RH correct first THEN put in the cigars.

Yes, I have several wineadors and know very well how to maintain humidity.


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

Rob you're sarcastically calling me a God but you actually did declare yourself the "King of the Winedors". I now see where the frustration comes from. :smile:

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/vb/cigar-accessory-discussion/335664-king-wineadors.html


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## JIK (Sep 4, 2014)

This has been an interesting debate to follow. There is nothing wrong with different views fellas, as long as they both work. There is more than one way to skin the cat. Let's remember the real reason behind all of this...... Cigars, smoke one and let's not get into insults. 

As for what I'm going to do, well whichever one works. I'll make sure and share my experiences in the future. Thanks!


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## egoo33 (Jul 21, 2013)

Gdaddy said:


> Why the anger? You sound like a frustrated child who's not getting their way.
> 
> Everyone knows (except you) that open holes in a humidor are not good. You don't see it as a problem. Fine.
> 
> ...


This guy @Gdaddy is my kind of guy


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## magoo6541 (Mar 9, 2014)

I haven't followed and read everything so I might be echoing what's already been said. 

I plugged my drain as soon as I got my wineador. When I was seasoning the shelves, I also had a lot of condensation inside the unit and I was really worried about what has going on. Once I started adding boxes of cigars, all of the condensation has gone away. I use Boveda 65% 60g packets and had 12 packets but added 8 more so I'm up to 20 packets. Since the moisture is fairly higher here the packets absorb more moisture than they release.


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## JustinThyme (Jun 17, 2013)

Gdaddy said:


> Why the anger? You sound like a frustrated child who's not getting their way.
> 
> Everyone knows (except you) that open holes in a humidor are not good. You don't see it as a problem. Fine.
> 
> ...


Says the guy who posts pics of toaster ovens.

And for the record GOD almighty, I didn't proclaim myself king of the wineadors, the item itself is king of the wineadors. If you have one better (obviously not with pics of toaster ovens) then post it up. If you would stop reading into things farther than what they are saying just to make an argument there would be no worries.

Bottom line is plugged or unplugged has precisely squat to do with the OPs post and you got your panties in a wad because I said differently.

Everyone except you seems to know that you cant regulate humidity in an empty plastic box with a TEC in it that is steadily condensing the moisture.


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

magoo6541 said:


> I haven't followed and read everything so I might be echoing what's already been said.
> 
> I plugged my drain as soon as I got my wineador. *When I was seasoning the shelves, I also had a lot of condensation* inside the unit and I was really worried about what has going on. Once I started adding boxes of cigars, all of the condensation has gone away. I use Boveda 65% 60g packets and had 12 packets but added 8 more so I'm up to 20 packets. Since the moisture is fairly higher here the packets absorb more moisture than they release.


The added moisture is what caused the condensation. The shelves don't always need to be seasoned. For example, if I lived in the dryness of Arizona I would definitely need to season the shelves. The opposite is true in higher humidity area like Georgia or Florida.

The idea that Spanish cedar is always dry and sucking down moisture is not true. The wood will reach an equilibrium with what ever air it is exposed to before it goes in your humidor. If the shelves were sent to Florida in 5 shipping days during summer months they have already been acclimated to a higher RH. All you need to do is place them in the wineador and see where they're at. There's a good chance they're close right out of the box without doing anything.


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

JustinThyme said:


> Says the guy who posts pics of toaster ovens.
> 
> And for the record GOD almighty, I didn't proclaim myself king of the wineadors, the item itself is king of the wineadors. If you have one better (obviously not with pics of toaster ovens) then post it up. If you would stop reading into things farther than what they are saying just to make an argument there would be no worries.
> 
> ...


I'm sorry Rob but I CAN regulate the humidity in a properly sealed plastic box (wine cooler) with beads or Boveda packs in it. Which is what the OP said he has. Stable temp and stable RH not a problem.

Please, try not to get so upset over this. No need for the digs and name calling that YOU have resorted to.


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## JustinThyme (Jun 17, 2013)

Gdaddy said:


> I'm sorry Rob but I CAN regulate the humidity in a properly sealed plastic box (wine cooler) with beads or Boveda packs in it. Which is what the OP said he has. Stable temp and stable RH not a problem.
> 
> Please, try not to get so upset over this. No need for the digs and name calling that YOU have resorted to.


In the words of my daughter......Whatever

Time for you to go back on my blocked list and go down in history as the only person ever to regulate the humidity of plastic.


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## beltjones (May 27, 2014)

I'm having the same issue. I think I over-charged my beads. Thanks for the thorough discussion!


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## teedles915 (Jun 18, 2009)

@JustinThyme @Gdaddy

It seems pretty disrespectful to take another member's (a new member) thread and turn it into your own personal battle ground. My most sincere advice would be to take the argument to private message, or some other form that doesn't involve trashing someone else's thread who did nothing to deserve it.

It doesn't matter who's right or wrong at this point, what matters is that it is VERY disrespectful to other member's of this forum.


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## Herf N Turf (Dec 31, 2008)

Tell y'all what, I ve had just about all of this juvenile chest beating shit as I'm gonna take. Just because you've been playing in the sandbox a while does NOT mean you own it. Grow up, smarten up and get along, or get out.


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## KaChong (Jan 1, 2012)

I put up this post a couple years ago:

http://www.cigarforums.net/forums/v...about-fixing-vinodor-condensation-issues.html

I think what JIK is seeing is that his beads have absorbed moisture beyond the RH level he wishes to maintain and that the cooling element in his Newair is getting colder than the dew point of the conditions inside his cabinet. at 80%RH at 65F conditions, the dew point (100%RH conditions) is only 59F. If the cold side of his Peltier junction reaches 59F (not that cold really) it will condense moisture. The only way to eliminate condensation is to run the junction above 59F which does not leave much headroom to get much cooling differential if the desired temperature is 65F. The beads are over humidified and cannot extract moisture. It may be necessary to use an external PID control to prevent the cold side of the junction from dipping below dew point:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=14

I use one of these doodads with the thermocouple stuck right against the cooling coil. I can't get thermoelectric junction coolers of sufficient size in Canada so I had to bond a bigass aluminum plate onto a condensor cooler to get it's cooling doodads to not condense moisture. Someday I might dispose of the whole cockamie cooling system and put in a big Peltier junction, but so far so good.

Beads are only a capacitor of humidity. They exhibit no humidistat like behavior in that they can only act as a large capacitor to reduce humidity fluctuations. Silica gel acts like a bigass brick of cigars, perhaps 1000 cigars of humidity capacity to level out the fluctuations of humidity to maintain your stash of 200 cigars. Once the beads have absorbed too much humidity, all they can do is slow things from getting worse. They have no particular equilibrium point.

Boveda packs achieve a humidity equilibrium through a saturated salt equilibrium (a blend of sodium and other salts). They can maintain a given RH if there is some undissolved crystals to dissolve and absorb some moisure, but if the pack is fully liquid, they cannot absorb more moisture.

I suggest that JIK bakes out a quarter of his beads to get them extra dry (very hard to hit a certain RH by baking out beads) and mixes them back into the rest. Check your weather seals with a paper test (it may be that the rubber seal has lifted somewhere). My own vinodor has slotted holes in the hinge mounting plates to adjust how the seal seats against the cabinet. In it's stock build I found some gaps which could be settled out by reseating the hinge plate.

I have been seeing some high RH conditions as of late (humid weather and a lot of open door browsing). I noticed that my Boveda packs had all gone to liquid (no gritty feel in the pouches) so I put in a couple pounds of very dry kitty litter to get things back down.


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## JIK (Sep 4, 2014)

Here is my experience for anyone with the same question.

Immediately after applying the tape and putting in the charged beads I began to see condensation forming near the drain hole and humidity readings in the 80's. Prior to the beads or the tape the humidity in the wineador was already in the 70's. Don't ask me why I thought it was a good idea to add more humidity, wasn't thinking I guess. 

I ended up taking out the beads and spending a good 30 minutes drying the out till I saw virtually zero clear beads. I placed the beads back in the humidor, dried the puddle with some paper towels and let it be. About an hour later there was already a significant drop in RH. It's been over 36 hours now and the humidity is ranging from 67% - 70% throughout the day. I have 65% HF beads so I suspect once the wineador is full the RH will come down a few percentage points.

Thank you all for the great advice.


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## Gdaddy (Sep 20, 2012)

JIK said:


> Here is my experience for anyone with the same question.
> 
> Immediately after applying the tape and putting in the charged beads I began to see condensation forming near the drain hole and humidity readings in the 80's. Prior to the beads or the tape the humidity in the wineador was already in the 70's. Don't ask me why I thought it was a good idea to add more humidity, wasn't thinking I guess.
> 
> ...


Great! Looks like your ready for some cigars now.


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## JustinThyme (Jun 17, 2013)

teedles915 said:


> @JustinThyme @Gdaddy
> 
> It seems pretty disrespectful to take another member's (a new member) thread and turn it into your own personal battle ground. My most sincere advice would be to take the argument to private message, or some other form that doesn't involve trashing someone else's thread who did nothing to deserve it.
> 
> It doesn't matter who's right or wrong at this point, what matters is that it is VERY disrespectful to other member's of this forum.





Herf N Turf said:


> Tell y'all what, I ve had just about all of this juvenile chest beating shit as I'm gonna take. Just because you've been playing in the sandbox a while does NOT mean you own it. Grow up, smarten up and get along, or get out.


My apologies to the OP and the rest of the forum. I took care of it by adding someone back to my blocked list, shouldn't have taken the member off in the first place.

@OP glad you got your beads dried out but as mentioned earlier you are at this point measuring the RH of your beads and the air in the wineador. If it spikes up you can pull the beads and open the door for a few minutes. Don't get to tuned in to trying to regulate the air and the plastic because as soon as you put the drawers and sticks in there everything changes.


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## maverickmage (Feb 10, 2008)

I kind of think that this may have been blown out of proportion from my initial comment. Here's what I have to say, but didn't want to get into an online argument.

First, glad that you got the humidity stabilized.

Few points that I'll throw out. It is true that you can not regulate the humidity of the wineador per se. Plastic/glass/metal does not absorb moisture like the traditional wooden humidor. Thus, it will not store/draw/release any moisture. You can hit the proper humidity within the wineador still, but what you would be seeing is the rh in the air. The moment you open that wineador (when it is empty) you just lost all of that rh and replaced it with the rh that was in your room. Once you start to fill it up and there is less empty air space, you should see less fluctuations since the cigars/cedars that are in the humidor will make it more resistant to change (in a sense). I suspect that you are seeing the proper numbers now due to the beads no longer being over humidified. 

It has been my experience that the drainage hole doesn't really contribute to bringing in outside humidity. While this past week, the weather has been fine here at SoCal, the couple of weeks before that, we were seeing triple digit temps and averaged about mid 80's rh. I finally ended up plugging my drain hole during this period, although it was not because my rh was climbing. In fact, my rh was dropping very rapidly and my beads were drying out a lot faster than what I was used to. After I had plugged the drain hole, it finally stopped dropping and stayed steady at around 67%. My guess is that due to the hot weather, the wineador was running a lot more frequently causing condensation (made up of the moisture that I put in) to drain out. My other guess is that the colder denser air within the wineador acts as a barrier for the less dense hot humid air to move in through the small opening. A wineador is a different beast from a wooden humidor (which essentially has same interior temp vs exterior temp) and would be a mistake to think that there is a free flow exchange between the exterior rh and the interior rh. Seeing a spike in rh and a puddle on the bottom seems to point in this direction since I'm assuming that before you plugged it, the rh wasn't quite as high.

Also, in terms of plugging vs not plugging the drain hole in wineadors, back when I was researching them, it seemed to be a fairly even split. 

In regards to your other question, about your beads eventually reaching an over humidified state, from what I have seen from the kitty litter folks is that they regularly dry out their litter to have it go back absorbing moisture.

Finally, I say go with what works for you. (The fallback and perhaps best advice within the cigar community).

P.S. Just curious, what's the rh of your room? Back when I was living in Florida, just about everyone that I knew ran their AC 24/7 to try and keep the humidity in check.


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## JustinThyme (Jun 17, 2013)

maverickmage said:


> I kind of think that this may have been blown out of proportion from my initial comment. Here's what I have to say, but didn't want to get into an online argument.
> 
> First, glad that you got the humidity stabilized.
> 
> ...


Your point of the RH dropping due to the cooler running excessively is spot on. Several went through this last year with indoor ambient temps being on the high side. The TECs are only good for about 10 degrees lower than ambient for use as a wineador. Anything higher it just runs too much and continously pulls the moisture out of the inside of the box. Thats why I put the 70% gel in the drain basin to catch the condensate and release it back into at a faster rate then the 65% beads to keep it from running down the inside or out the drain. It is certainly a far different beast than a wooden humidor but once you get some wood and sticks in it things calm down tremendously and level out nicely. Just dont try to make any big jumps with the beads. I know the website says to hydrate until 60% are clear but Ive found that a little spritz when you drop a point is usually fine. If it drops more, spritz again.


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## KaChong (Jan 1, 2012)

JustinThyme said:


> Your point of the RH dropping due to the cooler running excessively is spot on. Several went through this last year with indoor ambient temps being on the high side. The TECs are only good for about 10 degrees lower than ambient for use as a wineador. Anything higher it just runs too much and continously pulls the moisture out of the inside of the box. Thats why I put the 70% gel in the drain basin to catch the condensate and release it back into at a faster rate then the 65% beads to keep it from running down the inside or out the drain. It is certainly a far different beast than a wooden humidor but once you get some wood and sticks in it things calm down tremendously and level out nicely. Just dont try to make any big jumps with the beads. I know the website says to hydrate until 60% are clear but Ive found that a little spritz when you drop a point is usually fine. If it drops more, spritz again.


That's why I use an external temperature control with a thermocouple mounted to the cooling surfaces. That way I can set a cutoff setpoint so that the cooling surfaces don't dip below dew point. I do not AC my house during the day (when I'm at work) and things can get rather toasty in the room where I keep my stash. My compressor runs just long enough to cool a big heavy panel of aluminum bolted and thermally junctioned to it so it stays just above dew point. The heavy plate of aluminum provides a very large area so I can get sufficient heat transfer despite not having a very large temperature differential between my desired conditions and dew point at desired RH. In hot weather I have to leave the fans on full time to keep air circulating over the aluminum plate, but the thing holds rock steady RH at least.


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## elads13 (Feb 8, 2021)

hi guys, i hope i came to the right place for my problem. I recently bought a newair cc100-h which also heats up as well and it was second hand. person said he hadnt had it plugged in for about a month and a half and its been with the door closed. It has a weird smell thats seeped into the cedar shelves as well. Almost smells like florest foam type of smell mixed with cedar. May also be a condensation issue. i noticed its worse when the fan is on. smell seems like its getting either pushed around more by the fan or coming from it. Whenever i open the door i can smell it immediately then it dies down after 10 seconds when door is left open. I have so far tried the baking soda method which reduced it very slightly but still very much there. Took a look and everything looks clean. Any suggestions as to what it may be and how to solve it?


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## UBC03 (Nov 18, 2015)

elads13 said:


> hi guys, i hope i came to the right place for my problem. I recently bought a newair cc100-h which also heats up as well and it was second hand. person said he hadnt had it plugged in for about a month and a half and its been with the door closed. It has a weird smell thats seeped into the cedar shelves as well. Almost smells like florest foam type of smell mixed with cedar. May also be a condensation issue. i noticed its worse when the fan is on. smell seems like its getting either pushed around more by the fan or coming from it. Whenever i open the door i can smell it immediately then it dies down after 10 seconds when door is left open. I have so far tried the baking soda method which reduced it very slightly but still very much there. Took a look and everything looks clean. Any suggestions as to what it may be and how to solve it?


He probably had a foam humidifier. If the sun ever comes out, placing it in direct sunlight works.

Ozone machines work too. But I'd give the baking soda and time another shot.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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