# Stain coming off of a new pipe.



## Cpuless (Aug 8, 2009)

So I just purchased a Joh's Danish Freehand Sitter from a well known online retailer. The pipe smokes great, but the finish is coming off on my hands as I smoke. I'm not smoking it hot. To be honest, I don't know that I could make it smoke hot. Its that good of a smoker. Other than the fact that the stain is coming off as I smoke I absolutely love the pipe. Is there something I can do to fix this issue or should I contact the retailer and ask for a refund/exchange for a different pipe?


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## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

Having the same problem with a Johs I got a short time ago. I'd be interested to know what can be done because I love the pipe and don't want to give it up. Maybe some woodworkers out there have an answer.


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## DarHin (Dec 4, 2008)

So you both are actually getting the stain on your hands?


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## Cpuless (Aug 8, 2009)

Yup, the last two times I've smoked it the orange stain has come off on my hands. It is the only thing that I've held all day that was this color. Strangest thing. Sad considering that everything else about the pipe is absolutely amazing.


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## IHT (Dec 27, 2003)

that use to happen to Ashtons as well.

someone on here bought one from smokingpipes that had that problem. i believe that they were offered a replacement... but the member decided to keep it after hearing the problem resolved itself.


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## mike t (Oct 21, 2008)

i have a pipe that does that personally it don,t bother me and if its a good one , what the hell


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## Pugsley (Jul 12, 2009)

Is there a way to "seal" the stain? I can tell you having orange fingers isn't the result I'm looking for when I settle down for a good smoke.


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## Cpuless (Aug 8, 2009)

I've got to agree about the not wanting orange fingers. Though it did make for a few "interesting" conversations during poker tonight. That and convincing three of my friends how awesome pipe smoking is helped to offset some of my annoyances.


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## Savvy (Jun 23, 2007)

I would think that sealing off the stain would cause natural breathing of the wood to have some problems. But, I suppose it could be done. I also assume that the problem will eventually subside after a certain amount of time, but I guess it's possible that that wouldn't happen as well.

I have a Joh's coming in the mail to me, I'll write back if I have similar problems with it.


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## MarkC (Jul 4, 2009)

Pugsley said:


> I can tell you having orange fingers isn't the result I'm looking for when I settle down for a good smoke.


Same here; had to give up cheetos while smoking...


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## RJpuffs (Jan 27, 2008)

Cpuless said:


> So I just purchased a Joh's Danish Freehand Sitter from a well known online retailer. The pipe smokes great, but the finish is coming off on my hands as I smoke. I'm not smoking it hot. To be honest, I don't know that I could make it smoke hot. Its that good of a smoker. Other than the fact that the stain is coming off as I smoke I absolutely love the pipe. Is there something I can do to fix this issue or should I contact the retailer and ask for a refund/exchange for a different pipe?


I've had the orange stain come off on Johs and Bjarne's. Don't worry about it, the pipes have changed color to a nice woody brown now :thumb:


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## Cpuless (Aug 8, 2009)

Thats good to hear. About how many bowls/how long did it take for the stain to settle into its final color?


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

I have this same thing happen with my new johs. I figure it will settle down on it's own, it's not enough right now to bother me. I love the pipe.


MarkC said:


> Same here; had to give up cheetos while smoking...


That reminds me of a joke... :tape:


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## GuitarDan (Nov 26, 2009)

Stain is usually alcohol and/or oil soluble. You could seal it by applying a few coats of hard carnuba blend wax- like Butchers wax in the orange can.

You could also use clean cloth with a bit of old fashioned lacquer.

If you use lacquer, the pipe must be free of silicone and wax- use a clean cloth or paper towel wet with naptha (lighter fluid) to clean the surface, wait a few minutes for evaporation.

Use a natural lacquer like Deft brushing lacquer ---made with cellulose rather than polyurethane or polyesther.

Barely dampen a clean cotton cloth. Just moisten- not WET with lacquer; and rub it in.
3 applications/rubbings of lacquer=1 coat.
Maximum of 3 coats per day.

Allow to dry overnight.

GENTLY buff out dust specs with 0000 steel wool

clean w/naptha

3 more coats

Allow to dry for 1 week.

Gently buff with 0000 steel wool AND Butchers wax, or some other paste wax with high carnuba content.

Do NOT use Renissance wax or other polymer types, as the lacquer will need to continue curing for months if not years to come.

The beauty of old fashioned lacquer, is that it provides excellent resistance to moisture, and alcohol, and unlike poly finishes, it can me touched up at any point and amalgamates with the old finish!

Personally, I like the low gloss and silk feel of a wax finish on my pipes but it does take a bit morecare and feeding compared to lacquer.

Don't use shellac, as it is alcohol soluble and VERY reactive to heat.

A tung oil finish like Waterlox looks nice, but makes for a bad tasting smoke until the solvents in the oil are completely gone. Nearly a year passed before I could begin to taste tobacco in the thing.

Butchers Wax Boston Polish Amber Paste Wax

Deft Inc. | Trade Division | Products| Clear Wood Finish Brushing Lacquer

The wax also works nicely to keep vulcanite stems from turning green. As a bonus it's 7 dollars a can at the local Ace Hardware (in the household floor cleaning section), and is good for around 800 square feet!


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## Cpuless (Aug 8, 2009)

Thanks for the awesome info! Looks like i have a trip to the hardware store coming up tomorrow.


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## GuitarDan (Nov 26, 2009)

As always, practice on scrap until confident!


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## Cpuless (Aug 8, 2009)

Always. I have some scrap walnut from the coffee table I made a few years ago that should do the job nicely.


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## Jack Straw (Nov 20, 2008)

After a good wax and buff with Halcyon II and a microfiber towel, the stain isn't coming off as much on my hands.


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## GuitarDan (Nov 26, 2009)

If your walnut is of sufficient size, you may try turning it into a free hand pipe of your own making! Walnut and cherry and olive make nice pipes, in my experience.


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## Cpuless (Aug 8, 2009)

Hmm Interesting idea. Its from the crotch section of a tree I felled on my uncle's property so its gonna be one rough carve. 

I'm sure this is listed elsewhere on the forums, but since we are discussing it here, are there any good books that people would recommend for pipe carving?


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## indigosmoke (Sep 1, 2009)

Pipe Making How-To Book from PIMO Pipe Craft

Also mucho info here: http://www.pipemakersforum.com/


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## Dernier (Aug 11, 2014)

I know this thread is super old, but I have a had a Johs, Soren, and Neerup that all sweated stain onto my fingers. The pattern I noticed here... they are all made in Denmark, and everyone of these pipes had that orange colored stain you mentioned and matte finish (i.e. no carnauba)

Guitardan and Jack Straw thanks for the waxing advise and confirmation!


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## Fuzzy (Jun 19, 2011)

As Danish freehands are my favorites, this is not an uncommon occurrence to me. If it were mine and smoked well, I would just smoke it. At some point it will stop weeping that stain and with time will develop a fine character of it's own from heat and the oils from handling.


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## NeverBend (Aug 29, 2009)

Properly applied stains shouldn't come off. The correct method is to use a alcohol soluble stain, quickly coat the pipe and burn it off (ignite the stain) before any finishing. This embeds and seals the stain. A matte finish hasn't been given a finishing sanding before staining and the stain can be more readily absorbed but if properly applied it shouldn't come off. 

It sounds as if stain has been painted on without burning it off. With respect to Violin's post, you shouldn't be lacquering pipes, certainly without understanding the process. If the stain wasn't burned off a matte finish there'll be a lot of residual stain. You don't want to wax matte finished pipes either. Matte finishes aren't intended to shine and they'll hold excess wax and become cloudy (until the wax heats off) and collect dirt.

You can't burn the stain after it's dried but you can remove excess stain but that will change the look of the pipe. The look will change regardless if it's coming off. Assuming that it's an alcohol based stain you can remove some stain with alcohol. You don't want soak the pipe! I'd recommend using several cotton pads (preferred but balls should suffice) with an absorbent cloth (or two). Test this on a portion of the pipe where it's less noticeable, like the bottom of the shank. Soak the pad in rubbing alcohol and squeeze it well till damp, not wet, then rub the surface of the pipe evenly. The pad should have residue so repeat with another pad making sure that you're removing stain evenly. Rub the bowl down with the cloth after each turn with the pad.

Use care around the nomenclature, dabbing and wiping (with the cloth) to avoid making the stain bleed, this is a vulnerable part of the pipe because the wood surface has been breached. Make sure to use fresh pads and areas of the cloth because the stain residue can be put back onto the pipe. I noticed that Joh makes a number of partial carved pipes and you must treat these areas as if they're nomenclature.

Remove as much stain as your comfortable removing, you can do more later if needed. As Fuzzy says, handling and smoking the pipe will fill in the color but you won't be getting stain (or as much) on your hands. Keep in mind that this is a messy process so plan your space accordingly. I find that Goop washes off the stain and I get it (Goop) from Dollar Tree ($1 for a nice sized tube).

Hope this helps.

Pete


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## Nathan (May 11, 2005)

I had this happen with a Peterson of mine. It happened for a while then enough stain came off that it doesn't happen anymore, the pipe looks about the same I think. I wouldn't worry about it and just wash my hands after


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## NeverBend (Aug 29, 2009)

Nathan said:


> I had this happen with a Peterson of mine. It happened for a while then enough stain came off that it doesn't happen anymore, the pipe looks about the same I think. I wouldn't worry about it and just wash my hands after


Hi Nathan,

How're things in Minneapolis?

You guys are paying good money for pipes that you expect to be made with a modicum of care and if they're bleeding stain then they did something wrong. At the least, I'd contact the place that you bought the pipes and lodge a complaint. You might be surprised at their reaction and you'd be in the right. No excuse for this.

Since you're in Minneapolis, you might want to stop into Lewis' Pipe Shop and see if Rich can take care of the problem for you. If you do stop in, please tell Rich and his son, George, that Pete sends his best and you have my thanks (if you haven't been to Rich's store you're missing one of the best pipe men in the country).

Pete


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