Any plumbers out there???

D

double D

Joined Jul 2006
285 Posts | 0+
Chicago burbs
I thought I'd tap into the vast knowledge of the forum regulars.

I have a sink that started leaking at the "j" joint (I think that's what it is called) under the sink. I call it the trap. Anyway, I removed it to get rid of a clog since the sink was draining slow. Its PVC, about 8 years old. I bought new joint thing complete with new seals, but it still doesn't help. The sink will start to leak after it runs water for a while, basically after the trap fills up, it will leak from the top of the connection on the drain side.

If anyone has some advice, I'd appreciate it. One thing I noticed when I took it apart was a bunch of gray colored "stuff". Looked like some soft of epoxy. I went to Menards, but all I found was PVC Cement. I'm not sure if cement would be appropriate, as this needs to be removable.

Thanks in advance.
 
It is called a P-trap. The grey stuff is pipe dope. Is it leaking from the pipe or from the seal where the flange meets the sink? The P-trap has a rubber ( most of the time) ring that must be placed around the pipe where they join or you will get a leak.
 
I think the gray stuff is plumbers putty. You roll out a "snake" of it and lay it aroung the opening in the sink where the drain will go before you screw it in. It compresses, and then tries to seal the drain. That sounds like your problem to me....

:?:
 
Thanks. Travismaine- you seem to be the closet. I think my answer is a combination of both. I need that "dope" or "putty", not sure which. To be a little more clear:

There is a long (18" or so) black plastic pipe that goes from the drain and down into the p-trap. Its leaking where the trap meets the drain pipe. Its like a slip connection type connection. So, its leaking at that connection, which is about 2-3" above the bottom of the trap. There's a clear plastic tapered seal that fits there. There's a "nut" type thing that you hand thighten, which came with the trap. It has the plasic seal that you put inside. That's were it leaks. Water bubbles out from that screw thing.

So, I think I need that putty, if I can just get the name of it, I can ask for it at the hardware store.

Thanks again.
 
What you are describing is a compression seal you should not need any pipe dope for that. Pipe dope is for pipe threads. The taper pieces need to be in the right way. Can you take a picture. I have done these many times but I am having trouble seeing what you mean.


Chris
 
Barcochris has it right that is the rubber seal I was talking about some plumbers do use putty for this thats why there might have been some there. Take the joint apart. The pipe that comes straight down from the sink should have the big nut then below that is where the rubber seal goes. Slide that pipe back into the p-trap then slide the nut dowm the nut will compress the seal DO NOT wrench this super tight. Tighten with your hand then a turn or two at most with the wrench. That way your seal will seat good and the leak will go bye bye. Sorry for my crude drawing..
 

Attachments

  • Imaga.jpg
    Imaga.jpg
    16 KB · Views: 95
Thanks again everyone. This has been kicking my a#$ for weeks. The other sink is identicle and I've never had a problem. Anyway, here's a pic, which the red circle being the leak (should've posted it to begin with). Also a pic of the parts.

I've only hand tightened. Should I use a wrench?
 

Attachments

  • sink.JPG
    sink.JPG
    33.4 KB · Views: 89
  • sink_parts.JPG
    sink_parts.JPG
    3.9 KB · Views: 112
In the bottom picture the ring on the right is your problem. The ring is not quite the same size as the down pipe. Go to the hardware store take the plastic ring gasket with you and get a rubber on. Re install everything with the new ribber gasket chuck the plastic one. Hand tight should be more then enough with the rubber gasket.
 
Travis has it right. Get a rubber seal, the plastic ones are junk and will not make up for any imperfections.

Pipe dope (at least what I use and have always seen) is a tan color and will eventually harden. The gray stuff could have been a form of hydraulic cement/epoxy. Its used in plumbing repairs, so this may have been a problem in the past.

One other thing is the length of the pipe going into the trap. Your new one may have different dimensions than the old one, so make sure your drain pipe doesn't go too far down into the trap. If it does, it will limit the capacity of the trap, and affect the flow dynamics.
 
yeah dont use any dope or sealant it will only become a future nightmare.

Travis is right on. A rubber seal will do the job well.
 
you should not be getting a leak at the top of the P-trap unless your drains are draining slow. You may want to run a snake through the clean-out and clear our any blockage. Than install the rubber gasket and all should be good.
 
He means you dont want the straight pipe that comes down from the sink to go any further into the p-trap the it has to. It only has to be about an inch inside the p-trap.
 
The clean-out will be outside. It is usually a 3" pipe coming out of the wall or sometimes poking up from the ground, it will have a screw in cap on it. If you are unable to locate the clean-out you can snake it from the pipe coming out of the wall, just be sure to remove the P-trap first.
 
Double D I dont know if you have this resolved or not. I am a plumber. First of all is the P.O.( the black pipe coming from sink) long enough. It should fit all the way or very close to the bottom of U bend, you can see where it should go. If it is not get a 1.5" slip nut extension tube and cut it to length. Get a new 1.5" p-trap. they are very inexspensive. There will be a few nylon ferrils, one is made to go from 1.25"-1.5". That will go where the P.O. enters the p-trap. Put everything back together, tighten all nuts by hand and give them about a .5 turn with channel locks.
Use no pipe dope. It only makes things look ugly. Also rubber washers are for brass traps. Do not use them on pvc tubular. They will crack the nut when tightening then you will be cussing all the way back to the hardware store.
Hue
 
pbburner said:
Double D I dont know if you have this resolved or not. I am a plumber. First of all is the P.O.( the black pipe coming from sink) long enough. It should fit all the way or very close to the bottom of U bend, you can see where it should go. If it is not get a 1.5" slip nut extension tube and cut it to length. Get a new 1.5" p-trap. they are very inexspensive. There will be a few nylon ferrils, one is made to go from 1.25"-1.5". That will go where the P.O. enters the p-trap. Put everything back together, tighten all nuts by hand and give them about a .5 turn with channel locks.
Use no pipe dope. It only makes things look ugly. Also rubber washers are for brass traps. Do not use them on pvc tubular. They will crack the nut when tightening then you will be cussing all the way back to the hardware store.
Hue
Click to expand...

Thanks Hue. I think I'm making out okay so far, just by doing the last thing you suggested. I turned the nut with channel locks, just a little bit and that seemed to help.

But just for clarity; I purchased a new p-trap for about $3.00 from Menards. I used the 1.25-1.5 ferrel nylon. I did not use any pipe dope or putty.

So far, so good. If I had to guess, I simply didn't tighten it enough.

Thanks again everyone...
 
Good job DD. I don't know what plumbers charge in your neck of the wood's, but here you just saved about 70.00 by doing it yourself.

My bill would have looked like this.

1. 1 1.5" P-Trap 7.50
2. 1 hr. labor @ 60.00 60.00
3. 1 Trip charge 2.50 ( someone has to pay for the price of gas)
TOTAL 70.00
 
Login or Register • Reply

Similar Discussions

C
Since it's quiet around here (advice for newbies) ...
Replies
2
Views
2K
Cigars
Pistol Pete 1911
B
Salt water fish tank
Replies
13
Views
436
Smokeasy
B128thopen
G
ONLY A TRUE GOLFER WILL UNDERSTAND THIS
Replies
4
Views
377
Smokeasy
Bikeman
M
Guns at Liskerville Crossing
Replies
2
Views
438
Smokeasy
meplat
Top
Back